Sport Studies, Recreation & Athletics 338Improvised Rock Rescue Systems

Fall 2011Weekly class starting Oct 18th: Tuesdays 4:00-7:00pmLocation: Climbing Wall

Instructor: Brien SheedyOffice: Outdoor Program, RCC 209 Reid Campus CenterPhone: 509-386-4375E-mail: sheedybr@whitman.edu

Prerequisites:SSRA 238 (Intermediate Climbing) and/or SSRA 387 (Advanced Climbing) and/or CWI (Climbing Wall Instructor Course.

Class ObjectiveThis course is designed to train skilled lead climbers in improvised self-rescue systems for technical rock climbing. It is useful for both singe pitch and multi-pitch climbers. It is especially useful for instructors and advanced climbers to help them both analyze and mitigate potential hazards and problems. It will also enable them to initiate self-rescue through a variety of tried and true systems that can be combined in various ways. Ascension systems, escaping the belay, passing a knot, lowering systems, raising systems, counterbalance rappels, assisted rappels, and other rescue concepts will be covered.

Climbing Ability:People in this class should already have their lead climb and belay certification at the Whitman Climbing Center before the course starts. Intermediate climbing, Advanced climbing and/or CWI preferred.

Class RequirementsAttendance is required for all classes and activities. This course is a 1 credit class and will be graded:

25% Class attendance and participation 10% Quiz 1 (assisting the leader to lower self rescue, pick offs, transfer from autolocking device in top belay mode to lower)10% Quiz 2 (passing a knot during fixed rope ascention and then while rappelling, various rappel techniques)5% Quiz 3 21 foot sling harness, chest harnesses, bowline on a coil, split coil rescue, 25% Midterm (5 min knot pass, counterbalance rappels, tandem rappels)25% Final Exam (45min AMGA rescue test)

Fee$50

Required equipment: (Available for purchase or rent from the Climbing Center)UIAA/CE Approved climbing harness with belay loopUIAA/CE Approved helmet (can be borrowed from OP if you do not own one yet)2 cordalettes (at least one should be 20-21ft long and be 7mm)5 locking carabiners (pearabiners are preferred for munter hitches)6 non-locking carabiners4 slings (webbing or cord, including a “mini” prussik loop)1 tube-type belay device, or a combination belay/autoblocking device such as the reverso, trango B52 or Guide ATC. Cordalletes should be 6-7mm nylon minimumclimbing shoes and/or approach shoes in which you can lead 1 small cheap pocket notebook that can fit in back pocket

OPTIONAL:Rescue Items (Salvation on a sling): small knife, 1 roll athletic tape, small LED light, 1 rappel ring, 1-2 quick links

Required Text:Self Rescue- By Fasulo

Optional Text:Climbing Self Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations – By Andy Tyson and Molly Loomis

Optional Videos available for viewing in Climbing CenterAvoiding the Touch: Self Rescue Part 1 with Allen JolleyMoving Faster with Allen Jolley

Books available in Penrose library:AMGA Technical ManualClimbing Anchors – LongSelf Rescue - Fasulo

Books available in the OP:Knots and Ropes for Climbers – By Duane RaleighAdvanced Rock Climbing- John Long and Craig LuebbenSelf-Rescue- David Fasulo

Class 1 – Intros/names, Waivers, Lead climb and belay card check, syllabus, Anchor review: Quad rig, equallette, prerig cordallette; webbing anchor techniquesassisting the leader to lower self rescue demo & practice

Class 2–

Friction hitch review, pick offs, fix rope ascention optionsUsing a reverso for fixed rope ascention.Garda hitchtransfer from autolocking device in top belay mode to lower

Class 3 Quiz 1

Various alternative rappel techniques & backup methods (3rd hand, fireman’s, separate belay)Rappeling anchors demo & discussion: Leaver biners and making locker biners with tapeWeld abrasion demoRappel options: 5 & 6 carabiner break, munter hitch, figure eight, gri gri and cinch usage , plate type devices (atc, reverso, tuber, ect)passing a knot during fixed rope ascention and then while rappelling21 foot sling harness, chest harnesses, bowline on a coil, split coil rescue, Blocking knots; munter mule combo review

Class 4 5 min knot pass demo and practice, Quiz 2 + 3counterbalance rappels, tandem rappelsKnot and system reviewIntroduction to baselinewaist belay to baseline (video, demo, then practice time)

Class 5 Midterm: 5 mi. knot pass exam(Video & demos)A. Progressions to baseline from: 1. A waist belay to baseline (video, demo, then practice time)2. A re-directed belay to baseline (video, demo, then practice time)3. Directly from the anchor to baseline (video, demo, then practice time)

Class 6Hauling systems, 3:1 raises, 5:1 raises, 6:1 raisesSystems review and combining systems

Getting from baseline to other rescue options Systems review and combining systems

TBAFinal Exam Review (45min AMGA rescue test)

Last Class: Dec 6Final Exam (45min AMGA rescue test)

3:30-4pm setup4-5pm 3 people take test5-6pm 3 people take test6-7pm 3 people take test

Prerequisites: Folks are expected to know the following at the start of the course. These will be reviewed but prior knowledge is expected)

Knots & Rope handling:Basic knots: Overhand series (overhand, overhand on bight, overhand bend (water knot), overhand follow through); Figure eight series (Figure eight, Figure eight on bight, Figure eight bend (flemish knot), Figure eight follow through);

Advanced knots: Blocking knot (mule knot), Munter/mule combo, Bowline, Bowline on a coil, Double loop bowline, Double “super” bowline, Super eight, Stopper knot, Double fisherman’s, Triple fisherman’s, converting a munter to a clove, super munter, BHK

Hitches: Prussic hitch, Auto block hitch, Mariners hitch, Kliemhiest hitch, Bachman’s, Pemberthy hitch, Pemberthy bowline, Clove hitch, Munter hitch

Rope management: Stacking, throwing, butterfly coil, mountaineer’s coil, belay station management techniques, Block and tackle