Special report on Great British Fashion

Buy BritishSpecial report on Great British fashion

02 BUY BRITISH REPORT: FASHION

IntroductionShopping now accounts for more than a third of all UK consumer activity, and the unique attraction of British fashion brands will always be one of the key drivers of retail spending...

It is my great pleasure to introduce this very special “Buy British” report

produced in association with UK Trade & Investment (UKTI).

As the proud organisers of Pure London, we know that we are responsible for the biggest and most important gatherings of fashion retailers and buyers. More than that, we know that they attend because this is where they will find the very best showcase for British fashion, footwear and accessories. Ultimately this is what successful retailing is all about – having great products that tempt and excite consumers and which give retailers an edge over their competitors.

Pure London: Showcasing great brands in one of retailing’s most dynamic sectors

Whilst we are also proud of the international reach of Pure London, bringing ranges to retailers from around the world, we are clear that there is no better place to see and experience what makes British fashion so distinctive and sought after. Pure London represents the very best of British. From brands that have been established for many years, to the cutting-edge new designers that have built substantial followings in just a few years, British fashion has something unique to offer the world’s best retailers and their customers.

The aim of this report is to put a much-needed focus on Britain’s fashion and footwear designers and brands. Over the following pages we have collected expert views on what makes British brands so important, highlight some case studies of old and new companies and hear from international retailers on what they look to Britain for when they are buying for their customers.

We hope it will excite and interest you enough to join us at Pure London to see for yourself. Working with UKTI we can help make your visit as efficient and productive as possible. Please do contact us for any further information we can provide.

Mark Shashoua

Welcome from Mark Shashoua, CEO, i2i Events Group

What does UKTI do?UK Trade & Investment (UKTI) helps UK-based companies succeed in global markets and enables overseas businesses to invest in the UK. It has a global network of over 2,400 staff in 101 markets. UKTI’s International Trade Advisers (ITAs) have years of business experience to offer companies.

BUY BRITISH REPORT: FASHION 03

The power of British fashion .....................4

Margaret Howell: a very British designer ................................ 5

Case study: Little Mistress Group, Design, quality, value and service ............ 6

Case study: Cocorose London, passionate about shoes ..............................8

Case study: Wolf & Whistle, quirky and stylish .........................................10

Case study: Bohemian Jewellery Tattoos, international inspiration .............................. 11

World view What international buyers say ................12

How can UKTI help you? ............................13

Pure London: the gateway to UK retailing ...............................................14

Contents

UK Government and UK Trade & Investment are dedicated

to promoting British fashion. We know that our designers and brands are increasingly sought after by international buyers for their creativity, originality and above all, their world-class quality and craftsmanship.

UKTI actively supports events both in the UK and overseas that help showcase great British fashion and accessories and so we are delighted to be working in partnership with i2i Events Group and Pure London. With hundreds of designers and brands exhibiting, Pure London is a fantastic showcase of home-grown talent. It is where international buyers will find some of our greatest heritage businesses but also some of the most exciting new names that have been created in just the last few years.

UKTI has a global network and a range of initiatives to help UK fashion companies.We also work closely with international buyers to ensure they are aware of the UK’s new and emerging fashion talent.

We will have a strong presence at Pure London and look forward to meeting you at the show and helping you to realise your global ambitions. See you there.

Laura Faulkner

Welcome from Laura Faulkner, Global Director, Consumer and Retail, UKTI


The British clothing and fashion industry is a powerful contributor to

the economy but also to the country’s exports. What drives this is a well-founded reputation for individuality, creativity and quality.

To understand the UK fashion market, it is important to understand the UK retail market. Clothing and fashion retailers operate in one of the most competitive markets in the world with some of the most demanding and diverse customers you would wish to serve.

Britain has a long-established and proud history of manufacturers and brands based in the textile industries producing the finest knitwear, cloth, tweeds and footwear. Despite the long-term decline in British manufacturing, many of these long-established brands such as John Smedley, Harris Tweed, Pringle, Lyle and Scott and Burberry have not only survived but have been able to make themselves fresh, relevant and contemporary for a whole new generation of customers.

Many of these brands are positioned to serve the luxury end of today’s retail market. It is a sector that has boomed around the world. But if the UK has

The power of British fashion

From left: Topshop, Dorothy Perkins, New Look, Topman, Biba at House of Fraser

built a reputation for long-established luxury brands, it has also built a global reputation for its fashion retailers. Born out of the fashion explosion that was centred on 1960s London, the small boutiques quickly blossomed into national chains all eager to serve the young, fashion-conscious consumers enjoying money to spare in the new optimism of the era. Topshop, Chelsea Girl, Biba, Richards and many others set the tone for the age. Topshop and others are not just still with us, but stronger than ever. Chelsea Girl became River Island and Biba continues as a powerful range within House of Fraser department stores. They have been joined by other great British success stories such as New Look, Jack Wills, Oasis, Karen Millen, Warehouse, Dorothy Perkins and now online giants such as ASOS, Boohoo.com and Missguided.com.

Although most are single-brand retailers, the key point is that they understand the power and importance of labels and the sheer competitiveness of the market. UK fashion shoppers, particularly since the economic crisis, are driven by the search for great looks and great value. They will move from retailer to retailer, season after season

The combination of fierce competition and demanding, trend-conscious consumers means that UK clothing brands have to be good to survive

in their search for the brand that delivers to them best.

British fashion consumers are famously individual too with the big cities spawning distinct fashion looks that develop on the street and are interlinked with musical culture and trends. Mirroring this and emanating from it is the UK’s powerful design-culture. Fashion and textile colleges around the country have long been producing great designers who are attuned to street culture and trends which they bring to their own designs and collections. Over the years, UK designers have been eagerly snapped up by British fashion brands to help them shape their collections ready for the competitive market place. That is why Topshop and many others are passionate supporters of young designers through the British Fashion Council.

What the combination of fierce competition and demanding, trend-conscious consumers means is that UK clothing brands have to be good to survive.

Increasingly, international retailers have come to see that what UK brands offer, they also need in their own market place. UK fashion stands for a distinctive look that is always on trend, often quirky and very individual. It is what has helped make it a £21 billion industry and major contributor to the economy and to British exports.


Why do you believe British fashion to be important?

British fashion has a distinctive, smart, elegant look. It has its place in the world. We have some of the best manufacturers and designers in the world.

What are the qualities that make British fashion stand out from the international competition?

We stand out by our design, marketing and make. We have history and heritage.

How important is international to the Margaret Howell label?

Some 90% of sales for Margaret Howell are outside the UK. All successful companies in this industry, whatever the size, are international.

How did this develop and what do you believe is key in building long-term relationships with international retail stockists?

This developed with partners and eventually our parent company. All relationships are long-term. The key is to be consistent and make sure partners also do well from working together.

Margaret Howell is one of the veterans of British fashion. She started designing straight from college in 1970 with mens then womenswear but created around the very best fabrics and materials, such as Harris Tweed and John Smedley fine gauge knitwear. Her clean, functional designs are sold around the world and the brand now operates shops in the UK and Japan. Managing Director, Richard Craig, gives his views on the importance of British fashion to the world.

“For me, designing clothes is a very personal process. I set my own brief, though it can be a mystery exactly where it comes from. Evocative imagery, a childhood memory, or the familiar seen in a new light – all play a part. But so does one’s response to materials, the people who make them, and the places where they are made.Over the years I have come to value the dynamic between make and design, benefiting from the expertise of many British companies.”Margaret Howell

A very British designer

Why you believe international retailers should Buy British?

There is a worldwide demand for all levels of our industry – this is seen by the number of tourists buying.


Brief overview of the company, a description of the products you produce and the company’s design philosophy?

Our USP and brand ethos is: Design, Quality, Value and Service. The Little Mistress Group’s core philosophy is to create a unique mix of products and brands, with an unrivalled offer at attractive prices.

The extraordinary growth of the Little Mistress Group in the ever-competitive young fashion market has been supported by Little Mistress winning 3 Drapers Awards as Young Fashion brand of the Year 2012 and 2013 and Independent Young Fashion brand of the Year 2013.

In 2014, the second brand to market, Paper Dolls, has attracted a nomination in the same category as Little Mistress as Young Fashion Brand of the Year. Whilst competing against numerous young fashion brands, the Little Mistress Group brands keep coming out on top, shining head and shoulders above its rivals. The Group now includes Little Mistress, Paper Dolls and Girls On Film, as well as Little Mistress, an occasion wear brands for young girls aged 5-11.

With a rapidly growing reputation, the Little Mistress Group is gaining more and more attention from the press and celebrities for creating the best product at the best prices, with beautiful silhouettes, fabrics and gorgeous embellishment, while blending incredible branding and attention to detail.

Each of the three brands has their own signature style with pieces for all social occasions, and versatile looks that can be worn day and night.

We under promise and over deliver but most importantly, we make sure we are ready to replenish that in 24 hours once it sells.

Design, quality, value and serviceLittle Mistress Group

We talk to Little Mistress Group, one of the newest British fashion phenomenons on how its appeal is already winning awards and customers around the world


What do you think makes the company unique and distinctly British?

The UK has always had a ‘party’ reputation. Our customer loves to go out, to show off, she wants to be seen and looked at, and she definitely wants to look better than her friends. Between myself and some of the others here we’ve consumed enough data over the past 200 years combined to make a dress, a collection, a brand; I’m lucky to have vision around me to see opportunities before they become obvious to others. Britishness is very attractive and we hope to attract new markets in areas that may not seem too obvious today.

Everything is designed here in London, in the East and West End, and we are constantly working and re-working for newness. The Little Mistress DNA is clear now; it has taken time, lots of investment and hard work, but I’d like to think we would pass the Cola test on the dress level, you know when you see a Little Mistress dress.

How important is international business to your company?

At the moment it’s only 15% of our total revenue. We have just hired one of the best in the business to take us forward and make it move towards 50%, this is whilst our UK run rate is growing at 40% year on year. 2016 should see international turnover at £25m, and £35m+ in 2017.

What attracts international buyers to the Little Mistress brands?

Speed to market, branding, newness, delivery accuracy, value, sell through, distribution strength and the constancy of it, quality, all of the main factors to creating a demand.

Can you describe the creative process behind the development of new product ranges and how conscious are you of your international customers in this process?

Little Mistress can’t design too far ahead or we lose the edge and USP. Catwalk trends will appear in all collections; we deliver within 8 weeks of an order, any quantity, and we can guarantee that our collections will always look relevant. We fly everything in from our factories for speed otherwise someone else will just do it quicker.

Catwalk trends will appear in all collections; we deliver within 8 weeks of an order, any quantity and we can guarantee that our collections will always look relevant


combining design, comfort and function, our shoes don’t just look and feel fantastic, but they seamlessly fit into today’s multi-tasking world and modern, on-the-go lifestyles.


First and foremost, we are a British company, with our office based in North London. Britain has always been regarded as an innovative nation, launching pioneering new developments from technology to fashion. Likewise, our company founded and began a unique concept of footwear, which has since pioneered a new and international category within the footwear industry. Today, it’s an honour to see new brands entering this market category and highlighting that the concept is originally from the UK.

We continuously strive to push the boundaries of our designs and remain at the forefront of this category.

Last season, we launched a fully flexible and foldable sneaker, and ankle boot. Once again ensuring we remain unique, and sitting in the more innovative sector of

Passionate about shoesCocorose London

Pure London is where some of the best and most exciting new British labels can be found. The following case studies highlight just three of the exhibiting companies at Pure

Director, Gareth Austin-Jones, talks about how this unique and revolutionary shoe concept is winning supporters around the world

GREAT British fashion companies

Can you give me a brief overview of the history of the company, a description of the products you produce and the company’s design philosophy?

Cocorose London are passionate about creating shoes with a remarkable difference. Our designer shoe brand has become known for our revolutionary concept of foldable shoes, with our signature designs and premium presentation, and for our collaborations with iconic British brands The British Academy Film Awards, The Royal Ballet and Liberty Art Fabrics.

Founded at the beginning of 2007 by Janan Leo, Cocorose London started out at the trendy East End markets in London before organically growing into an

award-winning, international brand, stocked in premium boutiques

and department stores around the world.

Our philosophy of ‘Modern Luxury’ reflects

the phenomenal global trend of convenience. By


our market. It is important to us that we ensure our designs continue to surprise and delight our customers.

Being a British company, we also passionately believe in supporting British manufacturing and continue to promote our Luxury Heritage Made in England range of shoes. In addition to this, our collaboration with iconic British brands - The Royal Ballet, Liberty Art Fabrics and BAFTA - ensure that we continue to fly The Flag and promote the UK. This season for example we have widened our Athleisure range, with a selection of sneakers designed with Liberty fabrics.


International business is a significant proportion of our business, so development and growth in this area is fundamental to our current and future strategy.

What attracts international buyers to your products?

Being a British brand holds a certain amount of fashion credibility, but in my view it is essential that this is also coupled with a quality product and honest values.

Our designs ensure that we have a relevant product and we ensure that the whole team remain as flexible as possible to accommodate international buyers and their some time unique requirements. In our opinion it is essential when trying to attract buyers from our side the UK that the information is clear and available in a timely manner.


Starting a new concept, foldable footwear, it took time to develop the product offer and to ensure that everyone - from our production teams & the Press to our Agents and Customers - were aware of concept and its relevance.

With each season, we think we have pushed some of the more conventional boundaries of footwear design to excite

and inspire our customers around the world.

Our creative process is very respectful of international trends. A large proportion of our design work often involves considerable communication with our key sales Partners overseas. Enabling us to take into account their regional knowledge and their particular consumer needs.

How has UKTI helped you grow the brand?

We’re big supporters of UKTI because of the help and funding they have provided us. They have, through the British Footwear Association, provided grants in the past to attend trade shows and helped match-fund overseas trips. We also have regular catch-up meetings with our trade advisor and she has also put us in touch with different commercial officers from various markets that we are interested in.

Cocorose London started out at the trendy East End markets in London before growing into an award-winning brand, stocked in premium boutiques and stores around the world

Helping UK companies eExportUKTI can help prepare your business to succeed. It’s recently launched e-Exporting Programme (www.gov.uk/e-exporting) helps UK retailers sell through e-commerce channels


GREAT British fashion companies

Tell us about the history of the company, a description of the products you produce and the company’s design philosophy?

Wolf & Whistle is the sister brand of Playful Promises – PP has been trading for 10 years and originated from my love of lingerie and lingerie design. As design is like taking a journey it was a natural progression to move from what is under the dress to the dress itself. The companies design philosophy is to create wearable but flirty dresses featuring ‘made you look’ prints and classic tailored work wear.


Cheeky detailing and unique prints that are both commercial but also quirky – take for example our AW14 range which features a print inspired with old Victorian ink plates of extinct animals. We also draw on the strong British heritage of tailoring and pattern making – thus creating clothing that is wearable and flattering.


Very. We live in the global market place and to grow as a brand you need to be able to attract customers from throughout the world these days.

What attracts international buyers to your brand?

Design and price – we are a mid-priced brand with dresses retailing between 45-70 GBP – this enables our international buyers to offer our British designed product at a rather appealing price.

Can you describe the creative process behind the development of each new season and how conscious are you of your international customers in this process?

Quirky and stylishWolf & Whistle

Wolf & Whistle’s founder and designer,Emma Parker, talksabout her brand andthe importance of itsinternational customers.

We appeal to a certain type of woman – she lives all over the world and is many nationalities – She is someone who is informed about fashion but also likes small details that make her feel individual – so as such we don’t have to take any special research in the design process to appeal to international customers. However on the product development side we are adding in smaller sizes to appeal to customers in the Far East.

UKTI provides:International Trade Advisors who can provide you with impartial advice to grow your business internationally

We draw on a strong British heritage of tailoring and pattern- making

International inspirationBohemian Jewellery Tattoos

Brief overview of the company, a description of the products you produce and the company’s design philosophy?

Bohemian Jewellery Tattoos is a leading supplier of temporary metallic tattoos, an innovative, fun and stylish alternative to jewellery. From delicate bracelets, chains and anklets to statement necklaces and striking motifs, the collections draw upon the latest jewellery trends each season. Our temporary tattoos last up to 5 days after application and can withstand strong heat from the sun as well as being resistant to water damage, which poses many advantages over situations when real jewellery is not a viable option. The ease of use and versatility behind the product has been central to the success of the brand so far not only as a seasonal accessory, but all year round.


We believe we have changed the way temporary tattoos are viewed; what was once considered a gimmick is now seen as a sophisticated addition to your jewellery box. Though temporary, the products are made to the highest quality and are completely unique in design, with each trend-led and themed collection inspired by beautiful imagery. We are relatively new to the market, having only launched in September 2014, but following the success of Pure London and a number of consumer events this year, as well as dedicated PR support, we are fast-becoming a must-have accessory label across the UK with strong international ambitions.


International business is extremely important to us for a number of reasons. The biggest reason for us is for brand awareness worldwide, and to achieve this we have currently concentrated on expansion across Europe for 2015, with the vision to progress further afield in

2016. Also due to the UK market being fairly small in comparison to what can be achieved on the worldwide market, expansion internationally is essential to achieve the maximum potential of the brand.

What attracts international buyers to the brand?

For us the attraction of international buyers has been first and foremost the trust that seems to come from a brand just being British. For us – a company that is very young and new to the retail market – there has been a sense of belief in quality and reassurance which can only come from the knowledge of where the brand was originated as we have no previous relationship with these buyers. It is a testament to those who have gone before us in establishing that trust and it is also our responsibility to continue to be innovative and produce quality products to continue the trust that has been developed before us.


The creative process for us starts with research on what colours and styles across jewellery and the wider fashion industry are set to be popular for the upcoming season. From that we create mood boards as well as look for inspiration from jewellery that we feel our customers would love. We also take inspiration from international cultures and incorporate them into our designs; this year our Vandana and Chakra collections were inspired from Indian culture and have proven extremely popular. We are aware that what may be popular here in the UK may not be so internationally and we have adjusted our design process to take this into consideration more as we look to take a stronger foot hold in the international market place.


Bohemian Jewellery Tattoos talk to us about how they have changed the way tattoos are perceived and the benefit of being a British brand.

UKTI provides:International Trade Advisors who can provide you with impartial advice to grow your business internationally


What do international buyers believe is the appeal of British labels to their customers? We partnered with the Intercontinental Group of Department Stores who asked their members from around the world for their thoughts.

What international buyers sayWorld viewGREAT British fashion companies

Andrew Jennings, Retail veteran

Andrew Jennings is a British retail veteran with unique international experience leading some of the most iconic department stores and retailers around the world, including Saks 5th Avenue, Harrods, House of Fraser, Woolworths South Africa, Holt Renfrew and Karstadt. He is therefore one of the best-placed retailers to comment on how British products are perceived by buyers and consumers in the world’s leading markets.

that cache that also provides access to the European market. The history of music also plays a role with the obsession of British culture.”

What do customers look for in British products?

“It often comes down to heritage, quality and trust. Brand history is crucial as it stands for individuality, credibility and longevity. British heritage brands represent trusted quality. Consumers in international markets like products that are timely and timeless at the same time. Products that have an inherent air of good taste and quality of design and materials. The consumer also likes the status that is portrayed through brands such as Burberry, Turnbull & Asser, Hunter Boots, Jaeger and Asprey amongst many others. They see them representing heritage and history combined with fashion and function.”

What do you think makes British brands so distinctive?

“I would say that British brands and particularly British-made goods are renowned around the world for their quality and great design. London has long been an incubator and major contributor to global trends. International retail buyers perceive British brands as having a very distinct voice and identity. There is a certain heritage assumed to be associated with most British brands.”

What appeals to retail buyers around the world about British products and brands?

“British brands are in global demand for different reasons but it is usually their

history and quirky stories that make

them interesting and desirable. British heritage brands offer

countries like Japan the perfect mix of traditional and cool. ‘Cool Britannia’ brands continue to be an international magnet and have made London one of the most important shopping capitals of the world. International buyers also believe that British brands have a certain cache and represent quality. Topshop, Whistles, Ted Baker, All Saints, Karen Millen and Reiss have been well received in the US, for example, because they have


“Over recent years, we have seen our younger customers become more attracted to British labels. These are mostly the students who have studied in the UK and they are influenced by the British fashion scene. Nowadays, customers looking to be different and quirky they are more likely to buy from British labels rather than more ubiquitous Italian and Spanish brands.”

What international buyers say

“British labels are usually highly regarded by our customers for their style and colour and the way they reflect seasonal trends without being too extreme. There are lots of good high street brands and also many good affordable luxury brands. The most successful in our market are probably the labels that offer a feminine approach, have strong branding and most of all have an international touch in design.”

Many thanks to IGDS for their help in compiling these quotes from their member companies.

www.wdsf2015.org

“Quality is very important and heritage. Anything “British” often has a “heritage” quality attached to it and perfection is expected by default. But younger brands have even greater potential as the young fashion consumers are rapidly changing and individuality is becoming more and more important for them.”

“Fashionable, unique with a traditional touch, whimsical, conservative and pretty in women, structured with a touch of subtle daring in men”

How can UKTI help you?UKTI helps thousands of UK exporters and inward investors from overseas achieve commercial success by providing tailored services with specialist support covering a wide range of industries.

HOW CAN WE HELP?

We provide businesses with first class advice and guidance.

Support is designed to help grow your business in international markets and can be tailored to your particular needs regardless of whether you’re a new or experienced export or investment business. This includes:

• International Trade Advisers who can work with you to provide impartial advice and guidance on growing your business internationally

• Programmes to prepare your business for success, including UKTI’s e-Exporting Programme (www.gov.uk/e-exporting) helping UK retailers sell through e-commerce channels.

• Introductions to international procurement processes for large scale commercial projects

• Events and missions to expand your knowledge, networks and customers internationally

• Overseas market introduction service

For more information on how UKTI can help you reach your export potential visit stand M90 at Pure London


The gateway to UK retailing

INTERNATIONAL REGISTRATION FOR PURE LONDONVisit www.purelondon.com for the easy-to-use online registration form plus all the essential information you require to make your visit productive and enjoyable

Pure London

Now in its 36th season, Pure London is a key date in

the global fashion calendar and ensures that brands meet the most powerful fashion buyers in the UK and beyond.

Over 87% of Pure London’s visitors have direct purchasing responsibility and represent leading independent boutiques, multiples, department stores and online businesses. All attend to see the latest collections of womenswear, accessories, footwear and young fashion.

Importantly, Pure London has a close partnership with global trend forecasters WGSN, offering trend insight daily on the Pure London Womenswear Catwalk. Pure London’s ideal location provides fast transport links nationwide as well as accessibility to Europe and the rest of the world which further creates an international platform to sell to over 1,700 fashion buyers from outside the UK.

Pure London is the ideal setting to launch new product lines under the assurance that they will be seen by the right buyers with the right budgets.

Pure London is the UK’s leading fashion buying event, attracting over 20,000 fashion professionals each year. Showcasing mid to high-end brands, Pure is held twice a year during February and August at London’s Olympia exhibition centre

64global

countries attending

Pure

INTENTION TO SPEND

61.69%of visitors intend to spend more than a quarter of their annual budget at Pure London

38.31% 0 – 25%

24.21% 26% – 50%

7.40% 51% – 75%

30.09% 76% – 100%

72.94%Intend to place orders at or after Pure London


PURCHASING RESPONSIBILITY

87%+Have sole or shared purchasing responsibility

AUDIENCE SENIORITY AND DECISION MAKING

Director / Partner /Proprietor

43.7%Buyer /

Store Manager

27.35%Sales and marketing:

13.44%

Designer /Production Manager /

Merchanidser

10.38%

Other

5.04%

UKTI HEAD OFFICE

General enquiries:1 Victoria Street London SW1H 0ET

Telephone: 020 7215 5000

Email: [email protected] [email protected]

Contact form: contactus.ukti.gov.uk

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UKTIUK Trade & Investment is the Government Department that helpsUK-based companies succeed in the global economy. We also helpoverseas companies bring their high-quality investment to the UK’sdynamic economy acknowledged as Europe’s best place from whichto succeed in global business.

DisclaimerWhereas every effort has been made to ensure that the information inthis document is accurate, neither UK Trade & Investment nor its parentdepartments (the department for Business, Innovation and Skills, andthe Foreign and Commonwealth Office) accept liability for any errors,omissions or misleading statements, and no warranty is given orresponsibility accepted as to the standing of any individual, firm,company or other organisation mentioned.© Crown copyright 2014

You may re-use this information free of charge in any format or medium,strictly in accordance with the terms of the Open Government Licence.To view this licence, visit:www.nationalarchives.gov.uk/doc/open-government-licenceor e-mail: [email protected].

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Any enquiries regarding this material should be sent to us [email protected] or telephone +44 (0)20 7215 5000.This document is also available on our website at www.ukti.gov.uk

Published November 2014by UK Trade & Investment

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Special report on Great British Fashion

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