www.capitalgazette.com Maryland Gazette, Wednesday, December 25, 2013— a7

Maryland Gazette

FLAVOR A7WednesdAy

december 25, 2013

arUnDEl PinTby Liz Murphy

LIBATIONS

What is it about champagne that gets usall excited? Are we so easy to pleasethat all it takes are a few cascading

bubbles to make us smile?Yes. And what’s wrong with that? Not all

problems can be so easily vanquished bya glass ofsparklingwine, but theaccidentaldrinkpopularizedbyBenedictinemonks in the18th centuryhas a magicaleffect onthe worst ofproblems.

Sparklingwine —correctly

called champagne only in Champagne — canwarm the heart, invigorate the senses and seta mood like no other wine.

Its region in northern France is not themost hospitable in a country known more forits still wine. Only hearty grapes can survivethe cold temperatures, although globalwarming is changing that. Perhaps that iswhy champagne is unfortunately relegated toa special occasion. We don’t know of anyoneoutside Champagne who drinks it regularly,even if it has more versatility than peoplegive it credit for.

Champagne may have a lock on the name,but they don’t have a lock on bubbles. Inrecent years, we have seen an explosionin popularity for prosecco — the Italiansparkling wine generally made from gleragrapes. Spanish cava is making a comeback ifyou can get past the ubiquitous Freixenet.

Sparkling winesets a moodlike no other

WinE, ETC.by Tom Marquardt and

Patrick Darr

I’m not going to come down too hard onanyone for valuing quantity over qualitywhen it comes to beer. As much as it

pains me to admit, there are even certainsituations where I totally understand thisprinciple.

For example, if you’re dealing with less-than-crafty brews that are “best served icecold” — so you can’ttasting anything at all— it’s best to get thatswill down your throatbefore your taste budsknow what hit them.

Also, a bucket ofcheap beer is oftenthe only salvationus weeping legionsof downtroddenWashington Redskinsfans have in this cold,cruel world. Let’s faceit: It’s been a toughhowever many yearsit’s been since Dan Snyder rode into town onhis depression-inducing stallion of footballsadness.

But we need to change how we drink beer,comrades. It’s time for a beervolution.

While there are plenty of beers not worthyof your attention or time, there are just asmany — if not more — out there that shouldbe experienced with patience and reverence.

I’m not saying you need to take the nextbeer you buy out for a nice seafood dinnerand call it the next morning. But if we’realready conditioned to savor and appreciatea good glass of Duckhorn CabernetSauvignon or two fingers of an 18-year-oldMacallan whiskey, why shouldn’t we applythe same logic to a well-crafted beer?

You’ll be rewarded if you do.A perfect brew for savoring is the

Trappistes Rochefort 10, a Belgian quadrupel.Not only is it one of my top-choicecompanions on a chilly, gray day, it’s also afavorite of many beer lovers out there.

The brewery itself, Brasserie de Rochefort,is a Belgian Trappist brewery located onthe grounds of the Abbey of Notre-Damede Saint-Rémy, outside of Rochefort insouthern Belgium. The monks — yes, themonks — began brewing beer on site in 1595.And brewing of this delicious monk beercontinues to this day exclusively as a meansto raise funds for the monastery.

Don’t pound agood beer, savor it

there is a reason the new year is a celebratoryoccasion for most every culture: theacknowledgement of survival, the turning over of the

old and looking forward to the new, even to the unknown,deserves joyful recognition.

There is always a back story to thesurvival, the renewal, the hope — factsyou thought you knew, but really didn’t.Here is the back story of Jim Wilder:native Annapolitan, successful chef andpopular restaurateur.

Locals recall Jim as chef and ownerof Eastport’s beloved Wild Orchid, aneighborly bungalow replete with atiny lawn, pretty flowers and quaintstreet sign. Jim and his wife Karentransformed the former café into anintimate dining experience, a compellingmenu and a diverse wine list.

Located on Bay Ridge Avenue, WildOrchid felt like a visit to the comfortablehome of someone who fortuitously lovedto cook really good food. The restaurant was ahead ofits time. A rotating menu featured local producers anda West Coast emphasis on simple, fresh and flavorfulorganic ingredients.

In fact, the Wilders were the vanguard of the local,sustainable movement in Anne Arundel County. Theyweren’t trying to be founders of a local revolution; theywere simply trying to emphasize a lifelong love of goodtaste.

Jim was born in a house built by his great-grandfatheron Windmill Hill. Only a longtime Annapolitan wouldrecognize that name, since the large, acre-sized plots ofthe community, located on the east side of the Navy/Marine Corps Stadium are long gone.

His mother grew a sizable garden. His father grewup on a farm and tried to bring that sensibility into thehome. Jim grew his own vegetables and helped raise thefamily’s pigs. (Yes, there were pigs in Admiral Heightsjust a couple decades ago.)

Jim’s first job was in a restaurant, and that is wherehe’s stayed, despite the odds. To say “the odds” is tounderstate the obstacles Jim has faced in his long career.

Young, energetic and athletic, Jim’s first job as arunner at Harbor House (currently Phillips AnnapolisCrab Deck), suited him well. The restaurant sat around800 people on a busy night, and Jim loved the physicalchallenges of lifting, hauling and serving.

When he was 19, Jim fearlessly climbed a tree nearhis house to remove branches felled during an electricalstorm. Suddenly, a large branch crashed through theleaves, knocking him 30 feet to the ground, severing hisspinal cord, rendering his legs paralyzed for life.

This sad accident, though taking his legs, did not takehis spirit or his aspirations.

“I’ve always just been into food. From when I was inthe kitchen as a kid with my grandmother, until now,food is what I relate to,” Jim says.

He knew he wanted to cook, so he asked his highschool friend Rusty Romo if he could have a job in thekitchen at Harry Browne’s on Maryland Avenue. Hewasn’t professionally trained, so he read every gourmetmagazine and cookbook he could find, forming menus atnight and stopping by Graul’s Market on the way to workin the morning.

Rusty was encouraged by Jim’s studies. When the twodiscovered that Yves Bruchard, a chef from the Inn atLittle Washington, was waylaid in Annapolis, also due toan injury, Rusty paid him to mentor Jim in the kitchen.

“Yves taught me everything I needed to know, thentold me the rest had to come from my heart through hardwork and creativity,” Jim remembers. “That stuck withme.”

He left Harry Browne’s after eight years to startCompany’s Coming Catering with his cousin. They set upat Annapolis Landing, hoping to take advantage of yachtand boat traffic.

“Crab cakes and filet Mignon — that’s all the boaterswanted. There was little overhead and they were willingto pay, so we did well.”

The boating business was only viable during thesummer — winters were the dregs — so Jim went lookingfor a spot to open a restaurant.

He found the perfect space in La Moufette. The locationwas attractive largely because it wasn’t too big and hadspace to maneuver his wheelchair. He could manage therestaurant himself without having to hire support staff.

Jim’s focus at Wild Orchid was always to bringmetropolitan food trends to Annapolis, and for manyyears he did just that.

“People liked that my food had actual flavor, and whenpeople say you’ve done something good, you just want totry even harder to be even better. That’s what we did.”

In the course of the 17 years Jim owned Wild Orchid,he married Karen and became a father to her fourchildren. Together they grew both the restaurant andCompany’s Coming. But with only 12 tables, it wasdifficult to turn enough profit to support his large family.Company’s Coming helped with the shortfall, but still itrequired long, hard hours for both Karen and Jim. Theywere considering their next step when another tragedystruck.

Past, present and future:Chef Jim Wilder

by Diana Love

Jim Wilder in the kitchen at Sam’s on the Waterfront.

foragingfor flavorby Diana

Love

Looking forward

“I haven’t disappeared. I haven’t stoppedcooking. I am focused, I’m moving forwardand I am reinvigorated.”

— Chef Jim Wilder, former chef and owner of the Wild Orchid.

(See WINE, Page A8)

(See BEER, Page A8)

(See LOVE, Page A8)

A8 — MArylAnd GAzette, Wednesday, December 25, 2013 www.capitalgazette.com

And there are many Californiaand Oregon sparkling wines thatare as luxurious as their Frenchcousins. The choices are great.

Champagne’s luxury imagehas been helped by the flourishof how the bottle is opened.The unmistakable pop of a corkis associated with celebration.If you hear it in a restaurant,don’t you wonder what the tableis celebrating? Look into thewoman’s eyes and try telling usshe isn’t feeling special.

Some American sparkling wineis as expensive as champagne.The best values in Frenchchampagne are Nicolas Feuillate,Pierre Peters, Veuve Clicquot andPommery.

As we engage in the year’s mostcelebratory season, it is time againto think of champagne if only toput a smile on the most dour offaces.

Here are several champagnesand sparkling wines we recentlytasted:

J Brut Rosé Russian RiverValley ($38). A rosé doubles theimpact of sparkling wine. Its coloradds a festive splash to the tableand intrigues the palate. TheJ is made predominantly frompinot noir grapes and shows offraspberry and citrus notes. Servethis alongside salmon and youwon’t find a more elegant dinner.

Biltmore Estate Blanc deBlancs Brut ($25). Also fromthe Russian River Valley, thissparkling chardonnay hasunderstated apple and pear flavorsand mouth-cleansing acidity.

Champagne Charles HeidsieckBrut Reserve ($65). Too oftenwe forget about this venerableproducer, yet every time we tasteit we are quickly reminded of itspedigree. The brut reserve offersgenerous mango and roasted coffeearomas and creamy plum andcherry flavors. It is an even blendof chardonnay, pinot noir andpinot meunier.

Piper-Heidsieck BrutChampagne ($45). Thisreasonably priced cuvee — ablend of pinot noir, pinot meunierand chardonnay grapes — is anexcellent value. Good structurewith pear and apple notes.

Adami Col Credas BrutValdobbiadene ProseccoSuperiore 2011 ($22). Madewith glera grapes, this dry andtangy sparkling wine has a floralfragrance and simple but cleansingmouthfeel.

Mumm Napa Cuvee M ($22).The dosage includes late-harvestmuscat and pinot noir to givethis a sweetness. If that’s yourpleasure, you’ll certainly like thisviscous wine with ripe peach andpear notes.

Veuve ClicquotWe recently met with Pierre

Casenave, winemaker for VeuveClicquot — France’s second largestproducer of champagne.

Casenave started at VeuveClicquot in 2008 as a member of thetasting group that assembles the

various house blends. But his mostrecent assignment is the productionof the pinot noir still wine thatis used in the making of VeuveClicquot’s rosé.

The pinot noir is entirely agedin stainless steel, and is nevermore than three to five years oldto preserve the color. Here are thewines we recently tasted:

Veuve Clicquot N/V YellowLabel Brut ($45-55). Arguably thebest looking and most recognizablechampagne label on retail shelves,this champagne consistently winsconsumer approval. A pleasantnose of bread and yeast that leadsto a full fruity and elegant presencein the mouth. Well-balancedand refreshing. Made from 55percent pinot noir and 30 percentchardonnay, and 15 percent pinotmeunier.

Veuve Clicquot Rose N/V Brut($85). Made from the same blendas the “Yellow Label” except 15percent of the blend is the stillpinot noir. Nice toasty nose withsome berry fruit notes in themouth. Pretty light pink colormakes a nice presentation.

Veuve Clicquot Vintage 2004Brut ($96). This is a young winethat Casenave stated “can age for20 years for sure.” More intensefruit than the non-vintage blendswith some nice bread notes and ahint of flowers. Complex.

Veuve Clicquot Demi SecN/V ($68). This slightly sweetfruity wine is perfect as anaccompaniment to rich holidaydesserts and chocolates. It alsoshould work for any visitors andguests who don’t like dry wines.Casenave also recommended thedemi sec for spicy foods as a nicefoil to the heat. Nice fruity noseand mouth experience.

Tom Marquardt is the retirededitor and publisher of CapitalGazette Communications; PatrickDarr works in the local wine retailbusiness. Some of the reviewedwines were provided as samplesby the producers. To reach theauthors or get help in finding awine, go to their website at www.MoreAboutWine.com.

WINE(Continued from Page A7)

In fact, thanks to legalstipulations similar to thosegoverning the classificationof Champagne, only a handfulmonasteries in the world canbrew and sell beer considered tobe “Authentic Trappist Product.”

The brewing process of anauthentic Trappist beer mustoccur by the hands of or underthe direct supervision of monkswithin the walls of a Trappistmonastery. Furthermore,brewing cannot be a for-profitenterprise. These are only twoexamples of the rules enforcedby the International TrappistAssociation to prevent anyol’ beer from calling itself a“Trappist.”

Now, you don’t want to crackopen a bottle of TrappistesRochefort 10 and glug-glug awayin front of the refrigerator doorin your polka dot underpants atmidnight. You will hate it, and Iwill hate you for committing sucha crime against beer. Stay your

kegstand-loving hand and learn tobe patient, friends.

If you don’t have a Trappist-style glass — a bowl glass witha longer stem — on hand, don’tworry. You can also pour this badboy into a large snifter or tulipglass in a pinch. After pouring,let it sit for at least five to 10minutes. Remember, ice-cold beershocks the taste buds on yourtongue. You want it to warm upso you can actually taste whatyou’re drinking.

Once you’ve found the mostsnug corner of your couch, you’reready to enjoy your first sip. Tome, the Trappistes Rochefort 10tastes like a rich bread pudding,with notes of raisin, carameland plums. Even molasses. Thewarming effect of this beer isonly enhanced by its highergravity — or relative densitycompared to water — denoted bythe “10” in its name.

It’s like a big, cozy blanket Ilove to drink over the span of 30minutes or more, because I noticenew notes and flavors as timegoes on.

So while “Chug! Chug! Chug!”may be the song of your people,

keep in mind that this and otherbrews are labors of love. Theyare endowed with rich flavorprofiles that are often matched byan equally rich history. It’s ourresponsibility to give them theopportunity to shine.

Beer homework: If the highgravity and 11.3 percent ABVof the Trappistes Rochefort 10is a bit too much for you, youcan ease into this style with theTrappistes Rochefort 6 or 8. Aswith the 10, the lower numberdenotes its gravity. The Rochefort6 is only brewed once a year. TheRochefort 8 has more fruit notesand, of the three beers, makes upmost of the brewery’s production.

Liz Murphy is an editor livingin Annapolis with her husband,Patrick, and their two lazy dogs,Horatio and Clover. In additionto being a professional commawrangler, Liz also runs herown Annapolis-based beer blog,Naptown Pint. You can usuallyfind this six-foot-tall klutz kickingback a pint (or four) at 1747 Puboff Church Circle. Or you can justset a scotch ale out on your porch,and she’ll be there in five minutes.

By Liz Murphy,Correspondent

trappistesrochefort isamong thegreat beersthat shouldbe sipped,savored andenjoyed.

BEER(Continued from Page A7)

Their son Andrew collapsed on afarm in Hawaii and never regainedconsciousness. Karen managed tohave him flown home to Maryland,where doctors discovered hehad brain cancer. Although theyoperated, Andrew remainedunconscious and three monthslater, died.

Jim’s approach to difficulty andtragedy has always been to buckledown, to consume himself so deeplyin work that grief and frustrationbecome secondary. He was alreadycontemplating his next step whenAndrew’s sudden death spurredhim to make an unlikely leap. Atthe time, many locals simply didn’tunderstand that move. They didn’tknow the back story.

Jim and Karen moved WildOrchid from Eastport to the SevernBank Building on Westgate Circlein 2009. Where Wild Orchid 1 wasa tiny, homey respite, Wild Orchid2 was characterized by purple andpink neon exterior lighting, a sleekbar reminiscent of a hotel loungeand seating for 150. The kitchenwas huge and fully ADA compliant.Jim could roll his wheelchair

up and down the line with ease.Company’s Coming could offercustomers a separate event space.

Finally, Jim and Karen wereable to offer their customers themany luxuries like padded seatsand large bathrooms that Karenfelt they were missing in Eastport.Most importantly, the couplecould console their grief withoverwhelming work.

Wild Orchid did well for thefirst three years. As the economyregressed, though, it began tofeel the pinch. Jim didn’t wantto sacrifice quality to cost, buthe couldn’t make rent on whatbegan to feel like an island floatingbetween busy downtown andgrowing Annapolis Towne Centre.

Just as Jim began to shutter therestaurant, his sister introducedhim to Andrew Parks, owner ofSam’s on the Waterfront cafe. LikeJim, Parks has an appreciationfor the environmental, culturaland even commercial value ofsustainably produced foods.

And like Jim, he embraces theconcept of “Creative American”cuisine. Parks happened to be inneed of an executive chef just whenJim needed a new gig, and the rest,as they say, is history.

Jim started at Sam’s in lateJuly 2013. He has kept most of the

classic Sam’s items on the menuwhile working in his famousbutternut squash soup, freshbeet salad, bacon-wrapped porktenderloin and dirty grapes: anappetizer of sautéed chicken liverswith smoked bacon and roastedgrapes.

“Many items on the Sam’s menuare truly fantastic: Kobe burgers,lobster rolls, the flourless chocolatecake... I just added a couple of myown and my customers’ favorites,while also bringing specialsrepresentative of current trendsand flavors.”

It’s true that Jim doesn’t havenearly the same kitchen spaceas he did at Westgate Circle. Hemanages the kitchen from a smallprep table he built to accommodatethe height of his wheelchair. Headjusted the chair’s wheels tobetter maneuver narrow doorwaysand galleys. He tips pots forwardto get a look at what’s cooking,a dangerous but necessary movethat has involved more than onecomical mishap.

But at Sam’s, Jim is able tocontinue his cooking legacy.

“Has this transition been hard onKaren and I? Naturally, yes. I amworking the hours of a chef again,12 hours, six days. But I refuse tofail. It’s never been an option. I

have a deep passion for cookingand I am back in the kitchen,doing what I love. It’s a relief tonot have the weight of the bookshanging over my head. I can reallyconcentrate now and my cooking isbetter than ever.”

Jim has been literally losingsleep over his debut New Year’sEve menu. He’s conjuring avegetarian pâté that will showcaseelegant holiday flavors, a citrusmignonette for shellfish and a rubyred grapefruit beurre blanc forlobster tail.

“I haven’t disappeared. I haven’tstopped cooking. I am focused,I’m moving forward and I amreinvigorated. Karen and I havehopes and dreams that we plan torealize here at Sam’s.”

To help you celebrate your ownNew Year, Jim has graciouslyshared the recipe for his famousbutternut squash lasagna.

ButtERNut SquASH LASAgNA

4 pounds butternut squash peeled,seeded and sliced about 1/2-inchthick

2 tablespoons olive oilCoarse salt and pepper1 teaspoon nutmeg1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper3 eggs1 pound whole milk ricotta cheese

1/2 pound shredded mozzarella1/2 pound grated Parmesan1 box lasagna noodles or fresh

pasta sheets

Preheat oven to 425 degrees andtoss butternut squash with oliveoil. Season with salt and pepper.Bake until tender, 25 to 30 minutes.Let cool. Lower oven to 350 degrees.

Combine ricotta, mozzarella,Parmesan, egg, nutmeg andcayenne pepper

In a 9-by-12 casserole pan, layerlasagna noodles, cheese mixtureand roasted butternut squash. Topwith your favorite béchamel recipe,then more shredded mozzarella andgrated Parmesan.

Place baking dish in 350-degreeoven until cheese is golden, about30 to 35 minutes. Let stand 15minutes before serving.

Diana Love is a freelance foodwriter and food industry consultantbased in Annapolis. Her love forfresh food, the farming life and allthings outdoors is best expressedthrough her creativity in thekitchen. Ask questions or sendsuggestions about Flavor topics toDianaLove103@gmail.com.

LOVE(Continued from Page A7)

By ELIZABETH KARMELAssociated Press

Bacon-wrapped scallops are one of themost luxurious appetizers you can serve,not to mention one of the easiest to prepare.And for me, that’s a great combination.

I like using big, plump Alaskan seascallops and applewood smoked bacon.Because there are only two mainingredients in this dish, you need to makesure you use the best quality — the biggest,freshest sea scallops you can find, and themost flavorful bacon. After that, they are soeasy to grill that you hardly need a recipe.

There are two types of scallops, but onlyone of them is appropriate for the grill.Tiny bay scallops are so sweet, you can eatthem raw or just lightly sauteed. But theyalso are more expensive and not suited forgrilling. What you want are the larger, lessexpensive sea scallops.

This all-protein finger food appetizer isperfect for holiday entertaining. It’s simpleto prep and quick to cook. You even couldprepare them in advance. I pre-cook the

bacon to render some of the fat and makeit soft and pliable for wrapping around thescallops. Then just refrigerate until yourguests arrive and pop them on the grillwhen you want them.

We’ve also paired these with a simplemaple-mustard sauce that is deliciousdolloped on top of the scallops just beforeserving. But feel free to leave that off.

gRILLED BACON-WRAPPEDSCALLOPS

Everything tastes better with bacon! Andit doesn’t get any better than fresh-from-the-ocean sea scallops wrapped with bacon. Thescallops take very little time to cook, so Icook the bacon in the oven or microwave fora couple of minutes before I wrap it aroundthe scallops. That way, I am guaranteed toget crispy bacon and tender scallops. Thebest sea scallops I’ve ever had are fromAlaska, so ask your fishmonger for them.

Start to finish: 20 minutesMakes 12 to 14 scallops

2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard2 tablespoons maple syrup

1 pound jumbo sea scallops1/2 pound center-cut baconSalt and ground black pepperRound wooden toothpicks, soaked in water

for 30 minutesHeat the oven to 400 F. Set a wire rack

over a rimmed baking sheet. Heat the grillto medium-high.

In a small bowl, mix together the mustardand maple syrup. Set aside.

Use paper towels to blot dry the scallops.Arrange them on a plate, then set aside.

Arrange the bacon in a single layer onthe rack over the baking sheet. Bake for 10to 12 minutes, or until just starting to cook.Do not fully cook the bacon. Remove thebacon from the oven. If too hot to handle,let cool for several minutes. Once the baconcan be handled, wrap one slice of baconaround each scallop. Secure in place bythreading one of the toothpicks through thebacon and scallop.

Use a pastry brush to lightly brush thetops and bottoms of the scallops with baconfat from the pan. Season with salt andpepper. Grill for 2 to 3 minutes per side.Serve with the sauce for dolloping a bitonto each.

A simple recipe for a sensational party food

AP photo