SOU 3000 - 3099, CG 215 - 224

Bob Harpe © Copyright 2009. All rights reserved.

This cover page created by J.M. LaBoda.

Foreword:

A few quick notes should be mentioned at the start of this clinic to help fill in a little more information.

In addition to the 100 units built for Southern Railway there were 10 units built for Southern subsidiary Central of Georgia. These units, painted in traditional black and imitation aluminum with gold lettering and trim stripes, originally carried “CENTRAL OF GEORGIA” lettering on the long hood, and, like the SR units, lacked the end medallions applied to all second generation locomotives starting in the late-60s even as the lettering was changed to standard SR practices. Also noteworthy is that four of the CG units, 215, 218, 219 and 224, were built lighter than the rest of the fleet for use on the CofG main east of Macon.

Most, if not all of the details covered in this clinic would be applicable to these units prior to them receiving the end heralds.

In the late-60s the SR began equipping some of the SD35s with Locontrol equipment so that the units could operate the mid-train radio control cars and slave locomotives that had begun to be added to many heavier trains to help convey the heavy tonage on a number of lines. These units received white letterboards to denote the addition of the Locontrol equipment, though the line was not so quick about replacing these numberboards once the equipment was removed. Units so equipped were: SOU 3000 – 3012 and 3050 – 3075.

If you are interested in modeling a unit equipped with Locontrol I recommend reviewing Step 20 in the Southern SD45 clinic. Bob describes how to model the cable and mount for the antenna... the links below are to shots of SD35s that show how this was laid out on the SD35s.

SOU 3004 X - Chattanooga, Tn., 3/31/84. Photo by Chuck Zeiler.SOU 3010 R - Chattanooga, Tn., 3/31/84. Photo by Chuck Zeiler.

This page created by J.M. LaBoda.

This list presents the list of details that I will be using on my model. If you have parts that you'd rather use, please feel free to do so.

Parts List

Manufacturer Part No. Description Manufacturer Part No. Description

American Model 302 SD35 Window Kit Details West 135 SR bell Builders 139 Air filters

157 AntennaAtlas SD35 9260 High Hood SD-35* 172 Frame lights

187 SR hornCannon & Co. 1303 Inertial filter screen 266 M.U. hoses

1353 Inertial filter hatch 302 Air hoses1702 Radiator fans 305 Fuel tank1806 Ext. range DB door1952 Exhaust hatch Kadee #58 Couplers2153 SD jack pads2155 EMD air reservoirs Kato 959051 Low cyl. sideframes

Custom Finishing 112 Walkway lights Microscale decals 87-32 SR decals Bronze Gold87-48 Builder's plates

Detail Associates 1402 Drop steps 87-540 SR decal Stripes1708 Class lights2201 Lift rings Shellscale 113 Numberboard decals2202 Grab irons2212 Coupler lift bar WrightTRAK Models ------- SR M.U. stand2808 GE Speed recorder

Paints Modeler's choiceOdds-n-Ends .012” brass wire

- Atlas produced two different phases of the HH SD35. To get the correct model for the Southern units, make sure the Atlas box has "Late Grills and large Fuel Tank" on the very end.

[NOTE: As originally presented in the clinic Bob used Brian Banna's Bolster Pads, but these parts are no longer available. Brian still has the webpage up describing what was done to create the bolster pads, which can be seen by clicking here.

Sam “HOsam” McCall's website features a page that describes how he adapted the Walthers/LifeLike SD9 trucks and Kato SD45 truck sideframes to the Atlas SD35. Developed by Brian Everett, this is another way of gaining correct truck sideframes for a Southern Model. To visit this page, just click here. JML]

Step 1.

Begin this project by removing the shell from the chassis and then separating the shell into the four main sub-assemblies as shown in the scan below.

Now remove all of the Atlas supplied details from these four parts, fans, horn, class lights, handrails, etc.

Step 2.

Now that we've separated our model into four assemblies, let's begin by removing the Atlas turbo hatch so that we can replace it with the nicer and more detailed Cannon part.

I would suggest that you drill a series of holes on the perimeter of the turbo hatch and then connect them using a sharp X-ACTO blade making sure you do not cut yourself in the process. For best results, leave at least 1/8th inch of plastic on all four sides so that you'll have plenty of room to glue the new hatch to. Follow the Cannon instructions in assembling the new turbo hatch and then glue into place on the DB hatch. Set aside and allow dry.

Step 3.

Now that we've removed the Atlas turbo hatch and the area is level, let's add the new Cannon part which will enhance the looks of our model. Construct the Cannon hatch per their instructions and then glue it into place on the DB hatch and allow to dry.

Step 4.

This next step takes us deeper into the detail phase of our model and also requires a bit more patience since making a mistake on this step could result in a ruined shell or at least a shell that requires some repair.

As in Step 3, drill a series of small holes around the perimeter of the inertial filter hatch and both of the inertial filter screens. The more holes you drill and the closer together you drill them will determine how much effort it requires to remove these parts, but patience and working slow is of paramount importance to prevent damage to the shell.

The Atlas filter hatch and both fans have molded lines on all four sides and these lines are your reference points for the amount of plastic that you need to remove so pay close attention to these lines. Notice in the scan below that we want to leave about an 1/8th" on all sides so as to have room to glue the new part to.

Work slowly!!

Now that the Atlas details are removed, glue the new Cannon parts into place and set aside to dry.

Step 5

In this step we will begin to close the holes that we opened in the previous step.

Carefully install the DB hatch in place along with the cab, but do not glue yet. We just need these parts for measurements and to make sure we set the inertial filter hatch in place correctly.

Using the Cannon measurements mentioned in their instructions, install the filter hatch in place and glue from the bottom. Next, glue the two filter screens in place and set this assembly aside to dry.

Step 6

If you plan to use the AMB window set, now is the time to install your windows. Pay attention to the AMB instructions for installation of these windows as they will only fit into the model one way. After all of the windows are in place, I suggest that you apply a coat of Future floor wax on the inside edges of each window.

ONCE the Future has had time to dry, carefully remove the protective paper from each inside window pane being careful not to scratch the window. DO NOT remove the protective paper from the outside of the glass.

Q? You use the Future to set the windows to the shell?

Two questions: What are the advantages of using the AMB windows over the Atlas ones?

And what glue do you use?

Thanks,

Andrew

A ! The AMB windows are a very tight fit from the factory, but I take no chances of them ever falling out by liberally applying the Future floor wax to the edges of the windows on the inside of the shell and by doing so, I've never had a single window fall out. The advantage to using the AMB windows is that they are flush fitting windows which means the outside of the window is flush with the outside of the window frames.

The glue I use is Future floor wax and it is liberally applied to the edges of the windows on the inside of the shell.

Do not use model cement as it will smear on the windows nor do you want to use a super glue as it may fog up your windows.

Bob_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Step 7.

If you chose to use the AMB windows, carefully remove the protective paper covering from the insides of your windows BEFORE you glue the cab to the shell and walkway. If you choose to use the Atlas windows, I suggest that you do not glue the cab to the shell and walkway.

Glue the shell to the walkway, the DB hatch to the shell and the cab to shell and walkway. This will give us a

one-piece model that will be solid and not come apart. Under the model, remove the center sections of each locator pin as we will no longer need these pins to hold our model together.

Step 8

In a future step we will replace the Atlas bell with a DW bell and bracket so we now need to fill in the holes

made for mounting the Atlas bell.

I take the Atlas bell, holding it on it's side and using a new #11 blade, carefully slice off the mounting pin found on the bell housing. Take this pin and push it into the hole on the roof. This pin will provide a nice tight fit and may now be glued from under the shell.

Step 9

In this step we will install the Cannon DB fans along with the Cannon radiator fans and the extended range doors. Study the Cannon instructions until you are sure that you understand them completely. These fans

cost too much and are too nice to destroy or install incorrectly. BE SURE to use a hard surface, glass for example, to remove the grill rings from the frets or you risk the possibility of bending these fragile parts. I build the fan bases and fans as a unit and then install them onto the model. I then glue the grill rings into the riser rings and then glue the riser rings onto the fan base assembly. Cannon has not yet released their 36" fans so I took a P2K 36" fan from the scrap box and glued it into the hole between the two radiator fans. Now is the time to install the Cannon extended range doors to the DB hatch as shown.

Step 10

Gentlemen, for those of you that have never seen a high nose bell from the top side, I am adding a scan that I took of one of these bells so that you'll have an idea of how one looks and what details are on the top side of these bells. In the next step, we will attempt to modify a DW bell to look like this one.

Step 10A

In this step we will use the DW high nose bell and will transform it to make it appear more prototypical. Holding the bell in a pair of pliars and using a cutting disc in your Dremel tool, carefully remove the solid plate and sand filler found between the two sides of the bell. After you have removed as much as you feel safe doing, take a new #11 X-ACTO blade and slowly carve and straighten the sides so as to make them parallel with each other.

Next, cut two triangle gussets from .010” styrene and place one in each corner as seen in the bell found in step 010.

Next, carefully drill a #80 hole into the fitting found in the top center of your bell. Now, using the scan in step 010, bend a short piece of .010” brass wire to simulate the air line from the top of the bell to the top of the shell.

Install the bell onto the roof as shown. Next, install the brass wire air line into the bell top and into the shell as shown in the scan for this step.

Drill for and install the two DA sand fillers, one on each end of your model.

Step 11

In this step we will add the final top side details to our model.

Install the DW horn, part no. 187, the D.A. lone grab on the high nose, part no. 2202, the D.A. lift rings, part no. 2206 and the DA curved grab on the long hood, part no. 2217.

Bob and all who are working on this project.

I just want to give some information. The fan grab, the half circle on behind the last radiator fan is 7" off the fan hatch. The closest to that is 0.080". I use a piece of 0.080" styrene spacer when installing this part, usually I make my own from 0.010" brass wire.

Brian_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Q? Hey Bob,

Are you planning to get rid of the flash on the bell?

-Andrew

A! I used jewelers files.

I've had to use these D.W. high hood bells on a couple of EJ&E units. My trick is to cut out the bell and clean out the inside of the bracket where the bell used to be. I use a small chisel to do this. I square up the inside and clean all the flash off the casting. I then install a Kato bell and the inner triangle brackets as shown in Bob's photo.

I like the Kato bell. Unfortunately the D.W. bell is sort of out-of-round.

Brian_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Step 12

Install two walkway lights on the engineer's side as shown below.

Install one walkway light on the fireman's side as shown below.

Step 13

If you are modeling the SD-35 after late 1981, you may want to add the Microphor toilet water filler as shown below. This part comes with the Cannon & Co. high hood kit and this was an extra part that I had left over from another project. Note the location of the filler and it's relation to the bottom of the engineer's front window.

Now let's construct the ATS box found on all of the Southern SD-35's and located as an extension of the engineer's side battery box.

I chose to use some parts from extra Cannon kits that were on hand to construct this box. Cut a .025” section of part 10 that comes from a Cannon sub-base kit. This gives you walkway tread to match the Atlas tread. Glue this part to part 5 which comes from the same sub-base kit. Now use a section of .025” x .020” styrene to fill in the two sides of the ATS box. Allow to dry, sand to fit and then glue the assembly to the end of the battery box.

Next, remove all four lifting pads from the model and replace them with Cannon & Co. parts 2153.

Now add the DW firecracker antenna and glue in place.

Step 14

Install the DA grab irons, on both ends, as shown in the scan below remembering to leave off the bottom grab as the Imitation Aluminum stripe will cross this area and we don't want to have to work around any obstacles when we begin decaling.

Install the Precision Scale ground light just to the very rear of the center hinge on the battery box directly under the cab. Install the WrightTrak Southern style SD-35 MU connector. Carefully install the two Hi-Tech

Southern style cab shades and now set the model aside to dry.

Step 15A

This next step will be a multi-part step.

I wanted to use several detail parts, air filter, air tanks w/piping, under the body of my SD-35, but the Atlas SD-35 frame prohibits such work unless we do some fairly simple work with our handy Dremel tool. I also wanted to use one of the new Athearn fuel tanks, but that would require a good bit of machining work on our frame and I am not equipped for such at this time. I will move on and use the Atlas fuel tank, but with some modification.

By following the next set of steps, we should be able to add an air filter, Cannon air tanks, piping and fuel tank details and still be able to make good use of the Atlas tank.

Using your Dremel tool and wearing safety glasses, remove the metal from the Atlas frame as shown in the scan below. I used my old Dremel with a couple of cut-off wheels and was able to do what you see below in about 20 minutes. Take your time and cut slowly being especially careful not to put the cut-off wheels in a bind as they will break and can do serious damage. Clean up any ragged edges with a small mill file.

Step 15B

Looking at the Atlas tank from the side, remove the extensions that rise up from the inner parts of the tank. Sand smooth.

Insert the two .080” x .125” blocks as shown in the scan below. These blocks will close the opening left by the removal of the extenders and also help steady the tank from side to side.

Step 15C

After step 015B is completely dry, slide the tank onto the frame and once in place, drill a small guide hole through the center of the tank and into the frame. Now remove the tank, drill and tap the frame to accept a flat head 3/8 x 2/56 screw. Drill the hole in the bottom of the tank so that the 2/56 screw fits through the hole without binding.

Step 15D

When trying to fit the Cannon air reservoirs between the tank and walkway, I found that the tanks would not fit properly so to remedy the situation, I cut sections of .020” x .156” styrene strips and glued them into the bottom of the tank as shown below. This lowered the tank by .020" and now the tanks will fit as they are supposed to.

Step 15E

Construct the Cannon & Co. air reservoirs according to the instructions found in the kit. When dry, drill each tank end to accept .024” brass wire piping.

Next, install the tank to the frame and place inside the shell. Mark the walkway at the end of the long hood end of the tank as this is where the air reservoirs will be positioned.

Next, on the engineer's side cut a length of .020” x .125” styrene the length of the air reservoir and glue directly under the walkway where the reservoir will sit. This will give you enough plastic to mount the tank to.

Next, on the fireman's side, cut a section of .080” x .125” styrene, the length of the tank and glue it to the inside of the shell directly under the walkway making sure the styrene strip is flush with the bottom of the side sill. This will give support to the tank on this side of the model.

When these strips are completely dry, mount your tanks in the positions that you marked earlier. Both tanks should be barely visible to the eye when the model is viewed directly from the top. Install the tank onto the frame and test fit to make sure you can fit the tank into the shell without moving the two air reservoirs.

If the tank fits properly, cut sections of the Plastruct triangle strips and glue into place as added support and strengthening for the reservoirs.

Next, using the DW air filter, part number 154, file the top of the filter completely flat. Now drill the filter for .012” brass wire and then glue into place as shown.

Step 15F

Here is the air reservoir glued to the engineer's side of the walkway.

Step 15G

With the air reservoirs mounted and dry, cut sections of brass wire as shown below, bend into shape and glue into the ends of the reservoirs. This scan is from the engineer's side.

Step 15H

Here is the view of the air reservoir and additional air piping for the fireman's side.

Step 15I

Here is my fuel tank and the detail parts involved. My SD-35 is now ready to head to the paint shop so the next time you see the model, it's tank and frame, all will be black.

Step 16

This step shows the Southern decals in place and the model has had a coat of Dullcoat applied.

Decaling a well built and nicely detailed model is a detail in it's own right and a detail that needs to be given lots of thought and attention as decals incorrectly applied will simply destroy the best detailed model. I've seen guys add detail after detail and then do a poor job of decaling their model which in the end became simply just another so-so model.

I, whenever possible, prefer to use Microscale decals on all of my models as these decals are printed on high quality decal paper and each decal is separate from all the rest thus negating the need to cut the decals from each other.

Let's go thru some of the steps to insure a quality decal job and be on the way to completing another nice looking model.

First of all, you need photos or scans of your prototype showing the positions of the decals that will be placed on your model. Do your best to find photos of both sides so that your model is done correctly.

Next, you must have a slick or shiny surface onto which you will be applying your decals. Trying to apply decals over paints such as Floquil will result in a lot of unnecessary work and poor results.

I always spray a coat of Floquil Glaze to my models just to make sure the surface is slick and shiny.

This step has never failed me. Next, using a one or two oz. bottle, make a solution of Solvaset mixed with distilled water mixed 50/50. To this solution add a full tablespoon of 70% rubbing alcohol. Be sure to shake this mixture each time you begin to decal your model.

NOTE: NEVER attempt to decal your model(s) using full strength Solvaset as this product used full strength will destroy Microscale decals within a few minutes if the decal needs to be repositioned for any reason.

Now, cut your decal from the sheet and place into a bowl of distilled water and allow the decal to begin to break loose from it's backing. As the decal begins to break loose, using a medium size soft bristle brush, flood the area where the decal is to be positioned. Now, using a new X-ACTO #11 blade or tweezers, remove the decal from the bowl and place on the model close to where it's going to rest. If the solution begins to roll back onto itself, add another spoonful of alcohol to the mixture and be sure to keep plenty of the solution under the decal.

Once the decal is removed from it's backing and is in place where you want it to be, use the corner of a paper towel to begin removing any excess solution that surrounds the decal. Move quickly, but smoothly to make sure your decal is exactly where you want it to be. I suggest using an HO scale ruler to make sure that the decal is completely straight and level on the model. If the decal needs to be moved slightly and it sticks to the model, use more of the solution at the point where it's sticking and then attempt to move the decal into it's place.

This solution, on the model, will evaporate in several minutes and this will allow you to reevaluate the decals position on the model.

If the decal is where it's supposed to be and the solution has completely dried, move on to the next decal using the same procedure......... even on the smallest of decals.

The purpose of applying the decal solution before the decal is to allow the solution to begin to soften the bottom of the decal and to also begin the shrinking step thus driving out the air bubbles that you may sometimes see when applying your decals.

I usually apply at least two or three applications of the 50/50 mix to make sure that there is no "silvering" of the decal film and then begin to apply the final two coats of full strength Solvaset. If you find any small bubbles or if you see any "silvering" if decal film, very carefully open the spot in question using a BRAND NEW #11 blade or a very sharp needle and then reapplying another coat of the 50/50 mix.

Good light at your work bench is essential to good quality decaling. After I've completed the decal work, I like to hold my model under a strong light and twist the model in my hand looking for any defects in the

decaling procedure.

Once you are satisfied with the decals, use your favorite Gloss Coat or Flat Coat to seal the decals and prevent them from being damaged.

[NOTE: For ideas on how to cut up Microscale stripes refer to the other Bob Harpe clinics on the Southern Modeler website. JML]

Step 17

Atlas equipped all of their high nose SD-35's with the high, three brake cylinder sideframes whereas the Southern units all were equipped with the low brake cylinder sideframes. I spoke with the Atlas spokesman and he told me that Atlas had no intention of producing the low cylinder sideframes so I had to take another route if I was going to have a prototypical model.

I called my good friend Brian Banna who is a whiz with problems such a this one and is also a master when it comes to using a lathe. I explained how I wanted to use Kato low cylinder trucks, but that the Atlas frame from the factory would not allow these trucks to be used.

Once I explained my problem, Brian asked me to send him one of the SD-35 frames and he would see what he could do to solve the problem. Within a couple of hours of receiving the frame, Brian called and said he had the problem solved. He had milled the Atlas frame and had made aluminum bolsters for which to mount the Kato low cylinder trucks.

If you desire to use the Kato trucks under your model, contact Brian and make arrangements to get your frame to him. You will also need a set of the Kato trucks, part no. 959051, and a set of part no. 961500 which is the Kato H worm bearing and joint set.

Once you receive your frame from Brian, install the Atlas motor, Kato trucks and Atlas weights. Rewire the trucks to the Atlas lightboard. You can reuse the Atlas worm gear and drive shaft, but you'll need the cap from the 961500 kit to hold the trucks to the frame. Below is a scan of the Atlas SD-35 frame and motor along with the new low cylinder Kato trucks.

[NOTE: As originally presented in the clinic Bob used Brian Banna's Bolster Pads, but these parts are no longer available. Brian still has the webpage up describing what was done to create the bolster pads, which can be seen by clicking here. If you can recommend another way of doing this, please email me so that it can be added to this clinic.

Sam “HOsam” McCall's website features a page that describes how he adapted the Walthers/LifeLike SD9

trucks and Kato SD45 truck sideframes to the Atlas SD35. Developed by Brian Everett, this is another way of gaining correct truck sideframes for a Southern Model. To visit this page, just click here. JML]

Step 18

Completed Model Here is a shot of the completed model.