Sourcing California

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international Apparel News special section sponsored by A major pillar supporting the tenth largest economy in the world, the California apparel industry has it all. From gifted creative talent conjuring cutting-edge fashions sought by the global marketplace, to a skilled workforce and state-of-the-art manufacturing sector that make Los Angeles the nation’s largest fashion capital, to dedicated farmers producing top-quality cotton in the fertile San Joaquin Valley, no nation-state has more to offer, nor does it better. California’s fashion industry sets the standard, drawing design and business talent from the four corners of the globe. It is no wonder California is the international source of choice for inspiration and innovation. California SOURCE December 2008

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Featuring Supima Cotton from Boswell Farms

Transcript of Sourcing California

Page 1: Sourcing California

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ApparelNews special section

sponsored by

A major pillar supporting the tenth largest

economy in the world, the California

apparel industry has it all. From gifted

creative talent conjuring cutting-edge fashions

sought by the global marketplace, to a skilled

workforce and state-of-the-art manufacturing

sector that make Los Angeles the nation’s largest

fashion capital, to dedicated farmers producing

top-quality cotton in the fertile San Joaquin

Valley, no nation-state has more to offer, nor

does it better. California’s fashion industry sets

the standard, drawing design and business talent

from the four corners of the globe. It is no wonder

California is the international source of choice for

inspiration and innovation.

California

SOURCEDecember 2008

Page 2: Sourcing California

Quality

We spin 100% Supima and 100% Micro Modal ring spun yarns. Also included in our production is a 50/50 blend of Supima/MicroModal ring spun yarns.

Your supply chain is only as strong as your weakest link. Buhler sources the best raw materials in the market to provide superior quality on a continuous basis. JG Boswell supplies us with Supima®, “The World’s Finest Cotton,” and Lenzing supplies the MicroModal® fiber, all natural cellulose based micro fibers 0,9 denier. Fiber selection is the most important step to provide top quality. ➡

Werner Bieri, CEO, [email protected] Sasso, Sales, [email protected] Almeida, Sales & Tech. Service, [email protected] Newton, Customer Service, [email protected]

1881 Athens HighwayJefferson, GA 30549Office: 1 706 367-3934Fax: 1 706 367-9837www.buhleryarns.com

Contacts:

SUSTAINABLE NATURAL FIBERS

Having the best yarns does not guarantee fabric quality. We work with the best fabric producers in the USA. If you are a brand or a retailer and need to know who these mills are, please contact us.

PARTNERSHIP MATTERS

With our newly installed spinning machines in our USA facility, we now offer customized slub yarns to take advantage of the fashion trends. For those looking to upgrade your quality, our Royal Spun yarns will provide this benefit.

...from start to finish.

Page 3: Sourcing California

Aaron Ashe Designer Ellie Spring of

newcomer Aaron Ashe has been producing her label in California since its launch in Fall 2008. The line comprises solid-hued dresses, jumpers and feminine tops. All materials are sourced in California, including the eco-friendly silk used in many of the designs.

“The three main advantages of manufacturing in California versus overseas are product con-trol, faster production and low minimums. Also, when you are starting out, California-based companies are more willing to work with lower minimums,” Spring says.

“Producing in California sometimes can give you a less

competitive edge compared to those companies that produce overseas, but overall, the advan-tages outweigh the disadvan-tages,” she adds.

www.aaronashe.com

Aviator NationDesigner Paige Mycoskie

translated her love for surfing and the California lifestyle into a comfortable, vintage-inspired collection of hoodies, tees and sweats that quickly caught the attention of trend-setting bou-tiques such as Fred Segal, Planet Blue, Blonde and Intuition. The line is sourced and produced entirely in California. Mycoskie also uses sewing machines from the ’60s and ’70s, ensuring that even the stitch work is done exactly as in years past.

“I get to personally check on my production daily, and the turnaround time is much quick-er,” says Mycoskie, speaking about the benefits of producing in California.

She says the current state of the economy has in some ways been good for the company. “As a smaller company, it is some-times difficult to find contrac-tors and manufacturers to meet smaller minimums. But with the lack of work out there, con-tractors are more likely to work with smaller minimums. Also, it seems we are not competing nearly as much for the time and attention of the contractors anymore. Our work seems more valuable to them.”

Projected sales for the 1

½-year-old label are $2 million for 2009.

www.aviatornation.com

Beth SpringerHandbag designer Beth

Springer has produced her line in Southern California since the brand’s launch six years ago. She notes that most findings and fabrics used in the designs are sourced locally, and some are even custom-made in California. When she uses eco-friendly fab-rics, she makes every effort to use local companies.

Springer echoes the senti-ment of many California-based companies. “Better quality con-trol is the biggest advantage [to California production], as well as shorter lead times,” she says.

Regarding the current eco-nomic climate, Springer says: “I have always wanted to be a 100 percent American-made brand. Thankfully, the Beth Springer brand is understood to be very high-quality with innovative design. As of yet, I have not changed the brand due to economic conditions. However, cost is a current factor in

retail sales, so I am using innova-tions in the designs to attempt to decrease some of our cost with-out sacrificing luxury.”

www.bethspringer.com

California RisingWith the name California

Rising, it should come as no surprise that the brand has been produced in California since its launch in 2006. Comprising comfortable basics for men and women, the line will also launch a baby collection soon.

Husband-and-wife team Joshua Lloyd Fischer and Jules Blaine Davis take pride in the fact that all production is done in Los Angeles. Most of their eco-friendly fabrics are sourced locally, some from Enviro Tex-tiles in Los Angeles, and some fibers are grown in California’s Central Valley. Partnering with SG Knits in Los Angeles, Cali-fornia Rising has also produced specialty fabrics.

Producing in California, Davis says, gives them “a smaller

footprint and better control.”“We like to support

the California economy and use less oil to move

products,” she says. “Moreover, the com-munity is stron-

ger when resources are kept close.”

Though Fischer and Davis admit it is more expensive to produce

locally and “you must work harder to achieve certain quali-ties that are historically better in areas like Japan or Italy,” they are dedicated to producing with a conscience while also making items affordable.

“We are not willing to com-promise our ethics and relation-ships by going overseas unless we absolutely need to and are very comfortable with those sources,” Davis says.

The company projects sales of $1 million wholesale and $1.5 million in online retail for 2009.

www.californiarising.com

Edie-FranceNicole Magnifico-Parker of

the label Edie-France says her entire line is produced in Cali-fornia, even down to the novelty belts added to the collection this

BY DENA SMOLEK

Aaron Ashe

California Rising

Locally Grown

Continued on page 6

Beth Springer

Aviator Nation

DECEMBER 2008 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS / SOURCE INTERNATIONAL 3

Page 4: Sourcing California

The California cotton industry has built up an outstanding reputation these days—think of the fluid, sinuous offerings of Michael Stars, Ella Moss, and Splendid, to name just a few. What these designers share is knitted textiles from California’s leading knit houses, Design Knit, Texollini, Antex/Matchmaster, Colorway, and Shara-tex, among them. What these

knit houses share is the fruit of a very special relationship between two companies, each dedicated to producing only the highest quality product, the best of the best.

Buhler Quality Yarns Corporation, the Ameri-can offshoot of a 150-year-old Swiss yarn com-pany, has been spinning raw cotton into superb yarn here since 1996. Based in Jefferson, Georgia, Buhler began by providing yarn to the southeastern United States’ once-dominant weaving industry. Today, Buhler spins most of its yarn for Califor-nia knitters—and not just any yarn. Buhler spins only extra-long staple cotton, or ELS, which makes up less than 5 percent of all cotton grown in the world. But Buhler takes it a step further by spinning the best of the global ELS supply—American-grown Supima cotton. The company produces two main yarn products: 100 percent combed Supima cotton, about 75 percent of its product, with the remainder a 50/50 Supima cotton and micro-Modal blend. Its prices are high, its impeccable standards unwavering, and its client base select. “We want to be known as the expensive guys,” says Buhler president and CEO Werner Bieri. “We do not compromise. We are 100 percent committed to not going left or right of the path of quality. That’s the difference between good and top.”

A silk purse, we know, does not come from a sow’s ear, as Bieri well appreciates. Even as he extols the Buhler product, he is quick to swing the topic around. “We need to mention our relationship with Boswell,” he says. “Boswell” would be J.G. Boswell Co., growers of high-grade cotton in California’s San Joaquin Valley for the past 80 years. “Re-ally, the success of the product starts with the fiber,” Bieri continues. “Boswell is our fiber supplier of choice. Boswell for us is very, very critical.”

The partnership between the California farmer and the Georgia spinner, with result-ing benefits to the California knit and design industries, is a tale of how to do everything

the right way. Theirs is a two-member mutual-admiration society. Buhler buys 100 percent of its Supima from Boswell, the only Boswell client to com-mit so unswervingly to its goods. Boswell, for its part, hand-selects each of the approximately 20,000 bales of top-grade Supima—about 10 percent of its annual crop—that it sends to Buhler, ensuring that the spinner receives only the very best of that year’s crop. “We are using only the cream on the top of the milk,” Bieri says simply. “Boswell says, ‘I couldn’t have another customer like you, so unbelievably picky.’”

The Boswell Company could not be more dedicated to making Bieri and, thus, Buhler, happy. “For our company, the relationship is unique,” says Jeff Elder, vice president of cotton marketing. He is speaking from the company’s Pasadena office, a bit of a drive from Boswell’s three major San Joaquin Valley ranches, comprising some 135,000 acres in total. “Buhler is one of the few spinning companies to buy all its cotton from one grower, so Werner gets the best of the best,” Elder adds with evident pride. “Buhler is recognized around the world as one of the best spinners in the world.”

The quality product begins, of course, with the plant itself, and even before the plant, the seed. Boswell has its own plant-breeding operation, a joint venture with Dow Agrisciences, called Phytogen, whose aim is to produce the better mousetrap or, in this case, the longer, stronger ELS cotton fiber. From the pima cotton crop just recently har-vested by Boswell, 90 percent was PHY 800 and the balance divided among several experi-mental varieties. Developing better cotton is an eight-year process, four to crossbreed the desired characteristics and four to propagate enough seed to sow a crop.

What the bioengineers, farmers, spinners, knitters, designers, and, ultimately, the consumers want in cotton is essentially the same: strength, durability, dyeability, softness, and drape. The farmers and spinners, however, are also look-ing for something else. “The most important char-acteristic of yarn is consistency,” Elder says. “If it is strong in some places but weak in others, it is weak. If it is thick and thin, stripes won’t be even.”

Buhler vice president of sales David Sasso ex-plains that one of Buhler’s great strengths, accord-ing to its customers, is that “our yarns are very con-sistent over the long term. It’s important for them that the product they produce in January is the same in December.” The reason for Buhler’s remarkable consistency, Bieri says, is buying exclusively from Boswell. “They are one farmer who grows the cot-ton, gins it, and sells it. That has enabled us to have a consistent supply of the same quality over a crop year. If you buy one day from one farmer, another day from another, you won’t have consistency in

your yarns, and that manifests itself in the garment. Boswell has enabled us to really fulfill the very high expectations.”

With the hot, dry San Joaquin Valley a perfect environment to grow cotton and—critical to the process—perfectly time its irrigation, Boswell is well situated to pro-vide quality goods. “It’s one particular soil type, one farming practice, all the same gins, and that gets you less variables, less inconsistencies,” Elder says. This year in particular, he says, the crop will be slightly smaller, but “one of the strongest crops ever grown.” Water shortages have reduced crop sizes generally, but Boswell doesn’t look to push Mother Na-ture. “From a Boswell standpoint, the idea that we would not be sustainable is laughable to us,” Elder goes on. “We manage our crops on what’s best for the ground, not on market decisions.” Boswell also prides itself on the essential carbon negativity of cotton. “Cotton

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The world’s finest cotton,grown and sown in California

J.G. Boswell Co., growers of high-grade cotton in California’s San Joaquin Valley, is Buhler’s fiber supplier of choice.

Supima:

“Cotton in general is a net energy gain. You get more energy out

of the fiber, seed, and oil than it took to grow it. Cotton fiber is 40 percent carbon. It takes CO2 from

the air and releases oxygen into the atmosphere. When that cotton shirt

stays together for a long time, it’s trapping carbon.”

Page 5: Sourcing California

in general is a net energy gain,” explains Elder. “You get more energy out of the fiber, seed, and oil than it took to grow it. Cotton fiber is 40 percent carbon. It takes CO

2

from the air and releases oxygen into the atmosphere. When that cotton shirt stays together for a long time, it’s trapping carbon.”

Buhler and Boswell, not surprisingly, share a busi-ness vision that does not focus on non-stop growth. “I’m asked by bankers and all, how do you grow your business?” Bieri says. “Our first goal is not to grow the business every year but to have a very profitable busi-ness. Size doesn’t matter; profitability and reinvestment of the profits matter. That’s what makes you a better company. Then you grow the business. We are flying in the back seat of the commercial planes and putting our money into the plant.”

Boswell, similarly, is focused on quality, not quan-tity. “Because we’re a farmer, we’re not interested in growing market share,” Elder explains. “We sell exactly what we produce every year. What we want is a bet-ter, high-quality customer. Buhler is the epitome of that customer. They want the best, and they want to produce the highest quality yarn by using the best raw material. That reflects on us.”

With Boswell fiber in hand, Buhler uses state-of-the-art equipment combined with a long company ex-perience, as Bieri describes it, “to turn that top fiber into the very best yarn and to have a very consistent yarn supply to our knitters, who turn it into fabric. Because

of the high quality of the fiber and its consistency, the consumer en-joys the benefits of a garment that keeps its form, keeps its color, has beautiful sheen and an incredible drape.”

The two companies are in constant communication. Boswell shares its cotton crop quality profile with Buhler Quality Yarns as soon as it is available, Elder explains. He also travels to the Buhler spinning plant. Buhler and Boswell know that they each have a story to tell that would be incomplete without the other. When Sasso takes to the road to meet with designers and retailers, Bieri says, “he convinces them that to be successful, they need a product made from Boswell cotton and Buhler yarn.”

“Our yarns do make a differ-ence,” Sasso adds, “in whether a product is chosen or not by the final consumer,” which has been proven by a major retailer on a large-scale test.

“We like to promote the idea that we have a spe-cial relationship,” Elder says. “Combined, we’re able to do something no one else in the world is able to do. It gives our company a great sense of pride getting to know the brands and the retailers who use our cotton.”

Buhler buys 100 percent of its Supima from Boswell, who, for its part, hand-selects each of the approximately 20,000 bales that it sends to Buhler annually.

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AG Jeanswww.agjeans.comThe AG Jeans brand offers not only premium, vintage-inspired denim for men and women, but also an extensive contemporary collection of tees, tops, pants, shorts, outerwear, and dresses.

Agave Jeanswww.agavejean.comPremium brand Agave’s luxury, quality denim lines for men and women has expanded to include selvage denim, luxury fine gauge and Supima cotton jersey knits, non-denim jeans, and casual pants. All jeans are cut, sewn, and hand-finished in California.

Ella Mosswww.ellamoss.comKnown for bright color palettes, simple shapes, soft, wearable cottons, and tonal stripes, Ella Moss features casual, comfortable, contemporary collection that radiates effortless style.

GoldSign Jeanswww.gold-sign-jeans.comDesigner Adriano Goldschmied has created a distinct, debut collection of premium denim that offers technical expertise, directional design, quality, and fit using superfine denim, revolutionary hand-wash techniques, hand-stitched seams, and careful wash processes.

James Persewww.jamesperse.comJames Perse offers low maintenance high fashion that emphasizes elegance and comfort in several knit collections that include high-quality basics and ready-to-wear items for women, men, children, and infants.

Michael Starswww.michaelstars.comA pioneer in casual couture since 1986, the Los Angeles–based, family-run Michael Stars company is a leader in the women’s contemporary market, distinguished by its contoured fit, unique colors, and comfortable fabrics in tees, maternity, cashmere, and dress collections.

Sharon SegalSharon Segal uses the highest quality fabrics, which are tubularly woven so its t-shirts won’t twist. The signature fit features a longer body and slightly more length in the sleeves. The garment dyed tees are offered in approximately 30 colors each season.

Splendidwww.splendid.comSplendid is the culmination of founder and designer Moises Emquies’ quest for the softest fabrics and most color-absorbing yarns available to create the ultimate t-shirt. The extensive collection of tees, tanks, thermals, dresses, shorts, and more reflects his clean, simple, and effortless aesthetic.

Three Dotswww.threedots.comAn evolving concept in lifestyle dressing based on great fabrics, inspired design, fastidious construction, and perfect fit, Three Dots features exclusive knitwear, cashmere, and wovens for women, men, and maternity.

Zooeywww.zooeytees.comZooey, a leader in contemporary apparel and the women’s and men’s t-shirt market, offers diversified, lifestyle-driven, premium knitwear collections known for quality fabrics and sophisticated details.

Antex Knitting Mills www.antexknitting.comAntex is a vertical knitting, dyeing, printing, and finishing company that produces approximately 1.5 million yards of fabric per week. Established in Los Angeles in 1973, it provides fashionable knitted fabrics to the junior, contemporary, and children’s markets as well as technical fabrics to the outdoor and activewear markets.

Colorway, Inc.(323) 264-6080Colorway, Inc. manufactures striking, innovative print designs on a vast variety of upscale fabrics including its signature Supima cotton/micro-modal, luxurious silks, and ultra-soft 100% cotton vegetable dyed knits. Styles resonate with a unique, refined sentiment.

Design-Knit, Inc.www.designknit.comA leading manufacturer of knit-to-order high quality designer and better contemporary knit fabrics, Los Angeles–based Design Knit, Inc. specializes in sheer and lightweight fabrics and provides European quality and designs for affordable prices.

Shara-Texwww.shara-tex.comShara-Tex is a premiere knitting mill for innovative and high quality fabrics capable of both designing and manufacturing virtually any knitted fabric to specifications. It offers an extensive open line of fine novelty knits and also works with customers to develop custom programs.

Texolliniwww.texollini.comVertically integrated knitting mill Texollini provides fabric development, knitting, dyeing, finishing, fabric print design, and printing capabilities for small, custom orders to large program business. A leader in knitted textile fabrications, stretch fabrics, and print design and application, its lines include sportswear, bodywear, activewear, performance wear, intimate apparel, and swimwear.

All brands listed have stated

Supima either in 100 percent or

blended form, or in pima/Modal.

Cotton classers ensure the fiber’s quality and consistency.

Colusa

Estimated 2008 Supima production is 400,000 bales from six counties.

SUPIMA GROWING COUNTIES

Major Supima Resources

Page 6: Sourcing California

6 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS / SOURCE INTERNATIONAL DECEMBER 2008

Buhler Quality Yarns Corp. is a leading supplier of the highest quality yarns to the apparel industry in the Americas. By using only top grade, extra-long staple Supima® cotton fiber, all grown in California, Buhler ensures the consistency of its yarns. A year ago, the company began spinning Lenzing’s Micro Modal sustainable cellulose fiber, available as 100% Micro Modal or a 50/50 blend of Micro Modal and combed extra-long staple Supima® cotton. The latest yarn offering is a 50/50 blend of Supima® and Outlast Viscose. This is an adaptive thermal property product for improved comfort in hot and cold environments. For more information, visit www.buhleryarn.com.

■ ■ ■

Los Angeles–based Design-Knit, Inc. produces designer and better contemporary knit fabrics from sheer to heavy weight. New items include novelty and basic fabrics with cashmere, silk, wool, rayon, Modal blends, organic cotton, organic Supima cotton, organic Supima/micro Modal, Supima blends, hemp, recycled poly, bamboo/cotton, yarn-dye solids and stripes, garment-dyeable stripes, and an extensive collection of fabrics made with eco-friendly fibers. Custom work is available. Offer-ing new and innovative fabrics every season is their competitive edge. For more information, call Shala Tabassi at (213) 742-1234 or visit them on the web at www.designknit.com.

■ ■ ■

Established in 1987 by designer Matthew Hek-mat, Los Angeles–based label I.D.I. produces

signature casual women’s wear centered on the artistry of everyday life to appeal to the fashion forward woman. I.D.I offers intricate designs, eye catch-ing colors, and fresh, innovative styles that stand out from the crowd. Being a domestic producer allows I.D.I. designers to pay close attention to detail and create a premium brand at afford-able prices. The company accommodates specialty boutiques as well as large-volume orders for high-end retailers and catalogs. Call (323) 277-0500 or visit www.eyedeye.com.

■ ■ ■

Tatiana Lacheny, designer and owner of Eu-roboutiques in Westlake Village, Calif., special-izes in high-quality evening wear and special occasion outfits for private clientele. Lacheny uses couture-quality silks, laces, and velvets purchased from France, Turkey, and India as well as from local sup-pliers. Her custom work focuses on perfect fit, hand-beaded details, and feminine authentic designs. Lacheny works with independent Los Angeles contractors pro-ducing ready-to-wear dresses, separates, and accessories, which can be ordered through her website www.tatianalacheny.com. In addition, she has recently introduced Kushaks, a line of hand-crafted detachable belts. Lacheny’s custom services are available by appointment only. Call (805) 405-4797.

holiday season. Produced in Orange

County, Calif., and down-town Los Angeles, Edie-France employs many fab-rics, trims and embroideries sourced from California. The label has also entered the eco market: “We love our [prepared-for-dye] organic baby jersey we get from Neman Bros. down-town,” Magnifico-Park-er raves. “We also dye it with organic dyes.”

Magnifico-Parker has worked for large and small companies and seen both sides of production. “The advantage of local pro-duction is definitely time,” she says. “You can catch mistakes a lot faster and/or make last-minute decisions much quicker, avoiding head-aches. Plus, time equals money. People also love

to see that mer-chandise is made in the USA.”

Minimums and pricing are Edie-France’s challenges “since everything has gone overseas,” Magnifico-Parker says.

But the down economy does have its silver lin-ing, she notes. “Production has been better since a bunch of our competitors have probably gone

out of business, and we are finding more houses that will have time now to do our production. Plus, their pricing has gone down.”

(213) 622-9160

Enza Costa RogueLos Angeles brand Enza

Costa Rogue, a division of J Brand, launched for Spring 2008. Stocked at Ron Herman, Tracey Ross and Wendy Foster, among

other shops, the minimalist collection attempts to “blur the boundaries between casual and designer wom-enswear.”

Designer Enza Costa uses California resources whenever possible to pro-duce the label, including yarns from California’s Central Valley. Some cashmere and silk yarns are imported from Italy, but they are knit and produced in Los Angeles. And all cut-ting, sewing, dyeing and finishing is done locally, primarily using indepen-dent contractors.

While it’s more expen-sive to produce domestically than overseas, Costa says: “[There’s] quicker turn-around and faster delivery dates. We can react when something does well for reorders. By being close to the facilities, we can better watch the quality of our garments.”

(213) 749-3500

Heather Hawkins Designer Heather Hawkins crafts her line of stylish satchels from Italian leather, but she keeps production strictly local. The line has been produced by an indepen-dent contractor in down-town Los Angeles since its launch in 2004.

Hawkins chose Los Angeles because she has “better control over production” and does not have to worry about delays in customs.

While Hawkins says it is much cheaper to

Edie-France

Enza Costa Rogue

Locally Grown

Continued from page 3

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DECEMBER 2008 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS / SOURCE INTERNATIONAL 7

produce overseas, benefits include the ability to order smaller quantities and check the quality of materials before producing goods. “Also, production times are much, much shorter,” she notes. “Instead of waiting three to four months for your merchandise to arrive by boat, you can get most orders produced within about four to six weeks, sometimes faster, if neces-sary.

“Quality control is also easier to do here because everything can be checked one item at a time, and if there are mistakes, they can be fixed locally.”

Heather Hawkins sales are $300,000 annually.

www.shophh.com

Kate McHale Launched for Fall 2008,

women’s pants line Kate McHale is 100 percent California-made by an off-site contractor in Los Angeles. All materials for the collection are sourced locally, as well.

Melding the best attri-butes of premium jeans—fit, comfort and attention to detail—with the sophistica-tion and style of a beautiful trouser, McHale has set out to bridge the gap between denim and slacks.

McHale says she is committed to

producing locally because it allows her to be “more

hands-on with the entire

process of creating the line.” Cost is a factor, she

says, “but it doesn’t out-

weigh the quality available [by produc-ing locally].

“The economy has affected the entire market,” she says. “But our customer wants fit and quality, and that’s what we deliver. Our product is designed and produced to stand the test of time.”

Projected sales for the first year are $1.6 million.

www.katemchale.com

Revolver Los AngelesSince launching Revolver

Los Angeles in 2003, Steven Vigil has produced his line in California via an off-site contractor. Furthermore, 90 percent of the fabric is produced locally. The small percentage that is not usually comprises specialty groups such as findings and trimmings. Most fabric pur-chased from California sup-pliers is also eco-friendly.

“The biggest advantage [to producing in California} is being able to create new styles very quickly,” Vigil says. “Sometimes I finish 75 percent of a collection the week of market. There would be no way to do this

if I produced out of Cali-fornia.”

Vigil says there are huge advantages to producing locally when the economy is slow. “Stores are working much closer to deliveries, and being able to respond quickly has really helped our business,” he says. “I also don’t have to com-mit to inventory, so I have much less risk.”

Projected sales for 2009 are $2.8 million.

www.revolver-losange-les.com

Stella & Jamie Designer April Mun has

been producing her label, Stella & Jamie, in Califor-nia since she launched the brand in Spring 2007. With the exception of cashmere sweaters, which make up a very small portion of the line for the Fall/Holiday season, all goods are pro-duced in California. Almost all knits are from California, and many eco-friendly cot-tons are sourced in-state, as well.

Mun says she is proud to be helping the U.S. econo-my by using local resources, and cites fast turnaround and better quality control as distinct advantages of domestic production.

“Customers usually write their orders at once per season, but, nowadays, a lot of them are scared to write three to five months in advance,” Mun says. All customers want the prod-ucts next month because we cannot predict what will happen in three months. But it actually benefits us a little bit because we can turn around the production faster for their needs.”

Stella & Jamie sales are $4 million annually.

www.stellaandjamie.com ■

Kate McHale

Revolver Los Angeles

Stella & JamieHeather Hawkins

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Tatiana Lacheny

Page 8: Sourcing California

Quality in every single fiber.

Buhler Quality Yarns Corp.1881 Athens Hwy/PO BOX 506

Jefferson, GA 30549USA

Phone: (706) 367 9834Fax: (706) 367 9837e-mail: [email protected]

internet: www.buhleryarns.com

US Supima Ringspun Our yarn spun from finest, extra long staple Supima®-cotton allows for an outstanding fabric appearance, softness, drape and color brilliance. Top yarn quality will guarantee

an excellent performance in subsequent processing.

US Supima Micro Modal Silky sheen, softness, high water absorbency and breath-ability are typical characteristics of our luxurious blend. In perfect combination, combed Supima®-cotton and

Lenzing Micro Modal create an exceptional look and comfort.

US Modal Micro An incredible softness with a cool hand feel, the ability for deep color intake and an outstanding drapeabiltiy are characteristics that make textiles from this yarn an incomparable experience.

Micro Modal, a cellulose fiber formed from beech wood, is very gentle and soothing to the skin.