SOAP

3
It is a great pleasure to review this book for the SOFW Journal because the »S« in the journal’s title stands for »Soap« (O, F, W for Oils, Fats and Waxes) and some- time has passed since such a compre- hensive and up-to-date volume on the oldest surface-active agent of mankind has been available. Today the bar soap industry is thriving in much of the world, especially in the de- veloping countries. There, toilet and laundry bar soaps are produced in large quantities, and many manufacturers ex- ist beside the large multinational firms. In the rest of the world »boutique« soap manufacturers are producing elite bar soap for a select group of healthy-con- scious »green« consumers. The book is based on three previous sources, two of them books that are out of print, and the third unpublished lectures from two SODEOPEC conferences (2006 and 2008). This mnemonic means Soap, Detergents, Oleochemicals and Personal Care Prod- ucts. The new book is organized into 16 chapters and written by 15 competent authors. The most substantial Chapter 1 (81 pp.) is dedicated to The History of Soaps and Detergents. It covers a span of 4,500 years from the famous Sumer- ian clay tablet on the washing of wool through the first European centers for soap manufacture in Marseilles, Savona and Castilla, and the oldest living brands such as Yardley and Pears up to the mod- ern brands of the big soapers of today. Beside a list of the former laundry bar soaps and soap powders the develop- ment of leading soap brands, U.S. pow- der and liquid detergents is well docu- mented up to 2008 or even 2009, as well as the advertising story over the years. Chapters 2 and 3 (32 and 20 pp.) focus on important basics of soap, namely the Implications of Soap Structure for For- mulation and User Properties and Soap Structure and Phase Behavior. Especial- ly the coherent understanding of the structure and phase behavior of soap that emerged over the last century has moved soap production from an art to a science. Nevertheless, many questions are still open. Examples are the behavior of solid soap at very low water levels be- fore mush formation begins, and, indus- trially more important, the influence of a particular set of process conditions on soap bar properties. The application-oriented Chapters 4 to 6 comprise the Formulation of Tradition- al Soap Cleansing Systems (17 pp.), the Chemistry, Formulation, and Perfor- mance of Syndet and Combo Bars (37 pp.) and Transparent and Translucent Soaps (11 pp.). The formulation of soap bars has become more complex over the years due to an ever-increasing number of soap bases that incorporate an in- creasing number of additives. The »green« and »natural« market segments have led to soap products from new materials. Traditional soaps were designed for cleaning skin and clothes, but as time passed soap came to be used as a deliv- ery system for perfumes and superfat- ting agents. Thus, the cleansing aspect now seems almost secondary to the ef- fects of the various additives. As with any drug or cosmetic products, matrix effects must be considered when devel- oping soap formulas. Among these are additive-base and additive-additive in- teractions, pH effects, fragrance effects, and processing effects. The use of soap preservatives, colorants, fragrances and numerous other additives is discussed in some detail. The disadvantages of classical soaps, mainly their alkaline properties that af- fect the skin’s natural protection mantle and their failure in hard water conditions, have been important drivers for the de- velopment of dermatologically recom- mended syndet bars based on synthetic surfactants (»soap-less soaps«). When surfactants are used in combination with soap the products are called combo or combi bars. Differences in the surfactant choice between Europe and the U.S. are cited, as well as the specific processing of syndet bars in contrast to that of com- bo and conventional soap bars. Beside various formulations, important ingredi- ents and the need for mildness are pre- sented. Milder, environmentally friendly formulations with enhanced skin-care properties that are targeted to offer an aesthetic, consumer-appealing appearence are set to become a major trend in the future. Also of interest is the market de- velopment with its focus on Europe and the U.S., which shows a clear trend to more liquid soaps. However, a global overview on soap markets, e. g. in the emerging countries, is missing. For transparent and translucent soaps, which make up a good proportion of soap bars sold in the marketplace a coherent understanding of the relationships and interdependencies between optical clari- ty, bar composition, processing route and processing parameters is provided. Fur- thermore, the difference between the manufacturing processes for transparent and translucent soaps is made clear. Translucent soaps are manufactured by energetic working, which easily lends it- self to mass production on a modified standard soap manufacturing line. In contrast, transparent soaps are manu- factured by preparing and casting a melt, followed by cooling and solidification and sometimes by additional aging, a process that cannot be used in a stan- dard soap finishing line. Chapters 7 to 12 give comprehensive in- sight into soap-related technologies: from Soap Manufacturing Technology Luis Spitz (Ed.), AOCS Press, Urbana, IL/USA. 2009, 476 pages, 65 tables, 315 figures. Hardbound + CD-ROM. ISBN 978-1-893997-61-5 LITERATURE

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SSS

Transcript of SOAP

Page 1: SOAP

It is a great pleasure to review this bookfor the SOFW Journal because the »S« inthe journal’s title stands for »Soap« (O, F,W for Oils, Fats and Waxes) and some-time has passed since such a compre-hensive and up-to-date volume on theoldest surface-active agent of mankindhas been available.Today the bar soap industry is thriving inmuch of the world, especially in the de-veloping countries. There, toilet andlaundry bar soaps are produced in largequantities, and many manufacturers ex-ist beside the large multinational firms.In the rest of the world »boutique« soapmanufacturers are producing elite barsoap for a select group of healthy-con-scious »green« consumers. The book isbased on three previous sources, two ofthem books that are out of print, and thethird unpublished lectures from twoSODEOPEC conferences (2006 and 2008).This mnemonic means Soap, Detergents,Oleochemicals and Personal Care Prod-ucts. The new book is organized into 16chapters and written by 15 competentauthors. The most substantial Chapter 1(81 pp.) is dedicated to The History ofSoaps and Detergents. It covers a spanof 4,500 years from the famous Sumer-ian clay tablet on the washing of woolthrough the first European centers forsoap manufacture in Marseilles, Savonaand Castilla, and the oldest living brandssuch as Yardley and Pears up to the mod-ern brands of the big soapers of today.Beside a list of the former laundry barsoaps and soap powders the develop-ment of leading soap brands, U.S. pow-der and liquid detergents is well docu-

mented up to 2008 or even 2009, as wellas the advertising story over the years.Chapters 2 and 3 (32 and 20 pp.) focuson important basics of soap, namely theImplications of Soap Structure for For-mulation and User Properties and SoapStructure and Phase Behavior. Especial-ly the coherent understanding of thestructure and phase behavior of soapthat emerged over the last century hasmoved soap production from an art toa science. Nevertheless, many questionsare still open. Examples are the behaviorof solid soap at very low water levels be-fore mush formation begins, and, indus-trially more important, the influence ofa particular set of process conditions onsoap bar properties.The application-oriented Chapters 4 to 6comprise the Formulation of Tradition-al Soap Cleansing Systems (17 pp.), theChemistry, Formulation, and Perfor-mance of Syndet and Combo Bars (37pp.) and Transparent and TranslucentSoaps (11 pp.). The formulation of soapbars has become more complex over theyears due to an ever-increasing numberof soap bases that incorporate an in-creasing number of additives. The »green«and »natural« market segments have ledto soap products from new materials.Traditional soaps were designed forcleaning skin and clothes, but as timepassed soap came to be used as a deliv-ery system for perfumes and superfat-ting agents. Thus, the cleansing aspectnow seems almost secondary to the ef-fects of the various additives. As withany drug or cosmetic products, matrixeffects must be considered when devel-

oping soap formulas. Among these areadditive-base and additive-additive in-teractions, pH effects, fragrance effects,and processing effects. The use of soappreservatives, colorants, fragrances andnumerous other additives is discussed insome detail. The disadvantages of classical soaps,mainly their alkaline properties that af-fect the skin’s natural protection mantleand their failure in hard water conditions,have been important drivers for the de-velopment of dermatologically recom-mended syndet bars based on syntheticsurfactants (»soap-less soaps«). Whensurfactants are used in combination withsoap the products are called combo orcombi bars. Differences in the surfactantchoice between Europe and the U.S. arecited, as well as the specific processingof syndet bars in contrast to that of com-bo and conventional soap bars. Besidevarious formulations, important ingredi-ents and the need for mildness are pre-sented. Milder, environmentally friendlyformulations with enhanced skin-careproperties that are targeted to offer anaesthetic, consumer-appealing appearenceare set to become a major trend in thefuture. Also of interest is the market de-velopment with its focus on Europe andthe U.S., which shows a clear trend to moreliquid soaps. However, a global overviewon soap markets, e. g. in the emergingcountries, is missing.For transparent and translucent soaps,which make up a good proportion of soapbars sold in the marketplace a coherentunderstanding of the relationships andinterdependencies between optical clari-ty, bar composition, processing route andprocessing parameters is provided. Fur-thermore, the difference between themanufacturing processes for transparentand translucent soaps is made clear.Translucent soaps are manufactured byenergetic working, which easily lends it-self to mass production on a modifiedstandard soap manufacturing line. Incontrast, transparent soaps are manu-factured by preparing and casting a melt,followed by cooling and solidificationand sometimes by additional aging, aprocess that cannot be used in a stan-dard soap finishing line.Chapters 7 to 12 give comprehensive in-sight into soap-related technologies: from

Soap Manufacturing TechnologyLuis Spitz (Ed.), AOCS Press, Urbana, IL/USA.2009, 476 pages, 65 tables, 315 figures.Hardbound + CD-ROM.ISBN 978-1-893997-61-5

L ITERATURE

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L ITERATURE

Kettle Saponification: Computer Model-ing, Latest Trends, and Innovations (19pp.) and Continuous Saponification andNeutralization Systems (26 pp.) throughSemi-Boiled Soap Production Systems(17 pp.), Soap Drying Systems (36 pp.),Bar Soap Finishing (45 pp.), and Manu-facture of Multicolored and Multicom-ponent Soaps (28 pp.). The review on ket-tle saponification (Chapter 7) is charac-terized by the presentation of computermodeling to achieve a high degree of ac-curacy in process control for a full-boiledkettle soap making process. This devel-opment is successfully used to manufac-ture high-quality soap of many differentcompositions. The author invites inter-ested parties to pave the way for a newwave of kettle soap innovations.The next five chapters captivate espe-cially by a plethora of technological draw-ings and schemes that contribute to aclear understanding of the state-of-the-art of continuous saponification, neu-tralization, soap drying, bar soap finish-ing, and manufacture of multicoloredand multicomponent soaps. Continuoussoap making (Chapter 8) dates back tothe 1940’s with the development of hy-drolysis of fats and oils to fatty acids andglycerine under high pressure and tem-perature. After removal of the glycerine,the fatty acids are continuously neutral-ized. Today the globally most widely usedprocess of soap manufacture is this con-

tinuous or full-boiled saponification. Thechapter provides fundamental principlesof operation, an overview of equipmentand systems technology, and a reviewof commercially available systems. Se-mi-boiled saponification (Chapter 9) is aglycerine removal-free process whichproduces »neat« soap with all the glycer-ine that is contained in the starting fatsand oils. While the traditional marketfor semi-boiled products has been forlaundry soaps, recently, semi-boiled soapmanufacturing has also gained impor-tance for toilet soaps. This process offerssavings in energy consumption and re-duced capital investment as advantagesover other systems.Drying is a very important processing stepin soap manufacturing. The most widelyused process for toilet and laundry soapapplications is the very flexible andsimple-to-operate vacuum spray drying(Chapter 10). Liquid neat soap with wa-ter content ranging from 28-34% can bedried to several different grades in termsof moisture content (MC): toilet soappellets (noodles) – normally 12-15% MC,special soap pellets (translucent or mul-tipurpose) – 18-22% MC, and laundrysoap pellets/bars – 22-30% MC. Bar soapfinishing (Chapter 11) includes mixingthe main dry soap base, mostly in pelletform, with minor amounts of liquid andsolid ingredients, refining the fully for-mulated mixture into a uniform, homo-

geneous product, extruding the finishedproduct into a compact slug of prede-termined shape and size (billet), cut-ting the extruded slugs into individuallengths as required by the soap pressmodel used, stamping the cut slug (bil-let) into a specified weight and shapedbar (tablet), and packaging the finishedstamped bars.Multicolored and multicomponent soapsare classified into marbleized, striped,speckled, and two-tone types. Thesesoaps offer potential marketing (aes-thetic) advantages over single-colorsoaps with or without additives. In thecase of multicomponent soaps ingredi-ents can claim to enhance product per-formance. Chapter 12 describes and il-lustrates the manufacturing system foreach type. Chapter 13 (21 pp.) summarizes SoapMaking Raw Materials: Their Sources,Specifications, Markets, and Handlingfor the three main ingredients, triglyc-eride fatty matter, caustic soda, and glyc-erine. Global production data, sources,grades and users, characteristics, specifi-cations and analytical methods, marketdata and price trends, transport, storageand handling procedures (including oilbleaching) are given. Glycerine is alsodiscussed in the context of biodiesel pro-duction. Minor soap-product ingredients,process materials or packaging compo-nents have not been covered.

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L ITERATURE

The Analysis of Soap and Related Mate-rials and Soap Bar Performance Evalua-tion Methods are the content of Chap-ters 14 (18 pp.) and 15 (19 pp.). The firstone is a guide to the two most importantreference sources Official Methods andRecommended Practices of the Ameri-can Oil Chemists’ Society (AOCS, 2009)and Annual Book of ASTM Standards ofthe American Society for Testing andMaterials, Vol. 15.04 (ASTM, 2008). Forinstrumental methods like gas chro-matography and high-performance liquidchromatography, the relevant journals arerecommended. A lot of the chemical andphysical characteristics of soap raw ma-terials, the analysis of soap and minor in-gredients including antibacterial addi-tives, chromatographic methods, andevaluation of soap color and translu-cency are clearly reviewed.Formal governmental standards for prod-uct performance and for methods of test-ing soap bars exist only in a few countries,namely India, Bangladesh and Kenya. Inthese countries, a mandatory certificationscheme intends to protect consumersagainst substandard, low-quality prod-ucts on the market. In the rest of theworld, consumer acceptance is the onlycriterion for judging the performance ofmarketed bars and their commercial suc-cess. Nevertheless, some of the morecommon procedures, such as lather eval-uation, rate of wear and mush, wet crack-

ing, wet bar feel, mildness to skin, fra-grance anticipation, user panel evalua-tions, bar hardness determination, andrheological characterization are surveyed.Chapter 16 (19 pp.) delivers useful SoapCalculations, Glossary, and Fats, Oils,and Fatty Acid Specifications. It is con-sidered a special added value service tothe practitioners in the soap industry asare the definitions and calculations in-cluded in Chapter 8 and the appendix toChapter 9.The great strength of this book is the in-spired combination of theory, technolo-gy and commercial status of soap mak-ing. More than 140 flow sheets and ap-paratus drawings clearly depict the vari-ous technical solutions. Another almost80 figures illustrate the history of soapmaking, the where we come from andwhere we are going in an impressivemanner. An appropriate 18-page indexand a lot of references are also included.The only missing issues are an up-to-date presentation of environmental andtoxicological aspects of soap and its widespectrum of commercial products withdifferent additional ingredients, as wellas life cycle analyses and sustainabilityaspects. Only in Chapter 5 you can finda section on mildness evaluation meth-ods which are related to toxicology. Forfurther editions, some specialties such asfloating soap or shaving-soap should beconsidered.

The book is warmly recommended toeveryone active in the soap, detergentand cosmetics industries, in R&D, appli-cation, production, engineering and mar-keting, as well as analysis, quality con-trol, and raw material (oil and fat) con-cerns. Furthermore, it delivers special val-ue for students who are interested inconsumer products. And much more, thebook encourages future developmentand innovation.

Hermann G. Hauthal, Leuna, Germany