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Earl Shaffer's Cascade Crest Trail Hike Diary, 24 June 1963Extracted on Aug-18-2014 03:42:23

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Cascade Crest TrailJune 29 - 1963

Earl Shaffer's Cascade Crest Trail Hike Diary, 24 June 1963Transcribed and Reviewed by Digital VolunteersExtracted Aug-18-2014 03:42:23





Earl V. Shaffer2581 Church Rd.York, Pa.






June 29 - 1963 - Sat.started 9:00 AMRode bus from Portland to Crest Trail Inn, where we ate breakfast.Lady gave us salt. Photod rainbow. climbed trail to firetower, man ondutySky stormy over gorge. Young couple arrived. We hiked on through talltimber, green snails on trail.Began to rain. Passed two power lines and lakes. Finally camped bysmall brook, setting up tent. (9 mi from river)Found large glacial spring nearby.Rain threatening.






June 30 - '63 - SundaySpent damp, cold night. Intermittent rain and dreary dawn. Fire out andlittle chance of re-starting. Ate cold breakfast, packed and left.Timber is this area very tall, about 150ft. and 6-7 ft. diameter, mostly[[strikethrough]] spruce [[/strikethrough]] douglas fir. Passed ___ campand came to road construction. Ate lunch during rain, sitting in cab ofgrader. Arrived Grassy Knowl L.O. Tower about noon. No one on dutybut met Forest service men hunting bear. Arrived camp ___ about 2:00.Then came to Huckleberry Mtn. From topside photoed Mt. Adams, tophidden in cloud. Saw Mt. Hood, mostly shrouded. Still could seeColumbia Gorge. Camped finally under timber near Mouse Creek. Skyclear at sundown. Temp. moderate.






July 1 - MondayGood sleep, morning cold. Ate cooked breakfast. Met first mosquitos.passed side trail to Race Track camp. Came to sheep lakes. Came tofirst snowbanks. Arrived mid afternoon at Blue lake. Father and sonbivouced, fishing trip on horsebackwe camped on Knoll, overlooking lake. Party of riders came by.Later wind rose, got very cold.Kept fire, which flared dangerouslySlept very little. Very cold by sunrise.






July 4 - ThursdayClouded over and light rainfell during night. Cleared in morning.After breakfast climbed to foot of Mt. Adams snow slopes. Peak coveredwith cloud. Encounteded many snowbanks in rough terrain, came toDivide Camp in mid afternoon. Mtn. still clouded, started for KillenCreek. Came to river.Were crossing when 2 young women came up from rear. We hikedtogether to Killen Creek campground, camped nearby, sharing fire.Weather part cloudy. Photoed Ranier and Goat Rocks. Also nearbylakes. Weather rather cold. Brilliant sunset.






July 5 - FridayIce on ponds this morning.weather part cloudy. Women undecided as to destination. We left about9:00 descended to Lava Flow, masses of cinder rock. Ate lunch by LavaSpring.passed potato hill, many flowers.came to road and Midway Guard station. No one there. Climbed towerroad, then crossed lake area.Mosquitos very bad. Hurried on past Two Lakes (in Yakima Reserve)and finally reached Short Trail camp after forced march. Met two horseriders before arriving.Weather clear and cool.






July 6 - SaturdayRained about dawn. Cooked breakfast in rain. Left hurriedly across bog,climbed ridge, saw mule deer. Good trail for several miles <<written over"makes">>.Vast flower covered slopes. Foggy but cleared at times. ReachedCispus Pass about noon. Had one rough snow crossing in gulch.Crossed many snow patched beyond Pass.Fog very dense in Cispus Basin.crossed steep snow fields, step by step.Fog cleared to show trail on opposite slope and crags above. Very wideand fearsome. Got across with difficulty and finally came to Snow-grassflats. Sign split. Lost trail. Foggy. Searched more than an hour beforelocating shelter. 3 hikers there so we bivouaced nearby. Weatherclearing at sundown.






July 7 - SundayRained as we cooked breakfast. Afterwards partially cleared, with whiteclouds in valley southward.Flats were snow covered, had difficuty finding trail. Deep snow banks inravines. Beautiful valley to left. High on opposite mtn. is Goat Lake,never melts, great cascade below, about 1800 ft. total fall.Goar Rock's peaks above to right. Fog and rain arrived as we reachedPackwood Glacier. Aspect wild. Base of Ranier showing beyond Glacier,under clouds. Butte mtn. ridge ahead showed many snow patchesbelow Knife edge crest.Decided to turn back and bypass until later. Returned across snowcovered Flats to shelter. Descended trail to Chambers Lake. Got ride totown with family.. Stopped in motel in Packwoord (P.R. Johnson)






July 8 - MondayBought supplies in Packwood, food and tennis shoes and bug dope etc.Mr. Johnson took us up to White pass, with some stops enroute fortourist attractions. We rode ski lift to crest, planning to hike south toPackwood Glacier and return. At Forest Hq. they told us trail wasessentially clear. Near Shoe Lake we encountered difficult snow fields.Pushed on to Big Burn camp, east of Goat Rocks and camped. Weathercloudy, cold and occasional rain.






July 9 - TuesdayFrom Big burn hiked on, finally arriving (many blowdowns in valleysection of alternate trail) to McCalls Basin, beautiful intervaleclimbed through Elk pass, found many snowbanks beyond, onceclimbed goat trails up steep slope to detour treacherous snow. Got tovicinity of Packwood saddle when fog closed in as we came to verydangerous snowfield in front and both sides with high crest ahead. Toodangerous in such weather so again we turned back Very dissapointed .Returned to Big Burn camp by 7:00 and stopped for night.






July 10 - WednesdayWeather very cold as we cooked and ate breakfast at Big Burn Camp.Packed and left. Very foggy and disagreeable. Came to Shoe Lake.Crossed steep snow fields without mishap, feet very cold, much mudand snow on way to White Pass.Ate at White Pass Inn and retrieved supplies left there. Started on CCTnorth. Shelter in campground. Passed several lakes. Came to SandLake Shelter and stopped. Weather cold and damp. Sky cloudy.






July 11 - ThursdayVery cold and damp this morning. Breakfast hurried and started out.Got on wrong trail at Dumbbell Lake.Many side trails and lakes in this area.Back on CCT passed more lakes and long cascade on Bumping Creek.Came to Fish Lake and found shelter.Fished lake and creek without any luck. Saw herd of elk in meadow attwilight, about 30. Weather warmer but sky cloudy.






July 13 - SaturdayLeft Dewey Lake about 8:00. Weather fine. Climbed to high opencountry. Occasional snowbanks. Met two hikers, talked half hour. SawMt. Ranier, cloudless, from high point.Reached Chinook Pass at 10:30. Many tourists. Group with dogs. Atsheep lake met two fishermen. Stiff climb to sourdough top, ate lunch.Beyond met Sullivans. Then high country, Crown Point, PickhandleRidge, Bullion Basin, came to Lake Basin, then Big Crow Basin, cabinoccupied. Went on to Little Crow Basin and camped. Clouded over,windy and cold. 3 trailriders passed during evening.






July 14, Sunday. Hiked through heavy timber most of day, many largeblowdowns. Passed Arch Rock Cabin, stopped to look. Large stock offood. Very nice place. Reached Government Meadows about 2:30,another nice cabin named for Mike Urick, who helped build trail andcabins - weather getting rainy and windy as we went onto Windy Gap.Looked rough, with high open lands ahead so turned back to Meadows.Began raining after we arrived.






July 15 - MondayRained during night. temp. cold.Cooked on stove, mattresses on bunksslept about 12hrs. Cooked breakfast.Left about 11:00 AM. Passed Windy Gap, then Green Pass (foundspring) then crossed Blowout Mtn. Far views but cloudy-hazy. Sawjagged ridge to east. On far side of mtn. saw two bull elk. Later heardone jump. Stopped at nameless Gap, with spring on west side. Weathercold and cloudy. Saw herd of elk at spring. Sky cleared during night.






July 16 - Tuesday. Clear & cold. Passed Snoshoe Butte. Met boychecking blowdowns for work crew. Came to US weather station atStampede Pass. Had heard noise of lumber operation to left. Climbedtower to meet work crew Jack Gilstrom, Pat & ___. We stayed overnightin tower. Jack gave us deer steak. Visited weather station, watchedchess game. Night cloudy, windy, cold.

(deer passed station in evening)






July 17 - WednesdayHad breakfast at tower. Crossed Stampede Gap. Passed lake uphill.Saw a blacktail buck in cutover. Later saw squirrel closeup. Came toTwilight Lake, then Mirror Lake (very beautiful) where two boys werecamped and fishing.Rugged trail last 8 miles to Snoqualmie Pass, muddy and brushy.Stopped in Pass at Ski Haus <<"Lodge" crossed out>>.Ate steak dinner at Ski HausWaitress from Jim Thorpe, Pa.Ranger - Gordon Tracy - at Snoqualmie






July 18 - Thursday. Had breakfast at Inn. Got supplies and film thereafter Ranger took us 2 miles to other store. Started from SnoqualmiePass about noon. Met boys from Basketball School. Came into largebasin under massive peaks. Many cascades on rock faces. Crossedpass to Snow Lake, large and deep, high ridge beyond. Very beautiful.Saw campers at lake. Descended many switchbacks, photod longwaterfall. Stopped at river in the valley, camped at burned cabin.Weather moderate.

Middle fork Snoqualmie

Camping family - Ogilvie






July 19 - Friday -Started east along Middle Fork of Snoqualmie River. After two milesarrived Goldmeyer Lodge, waterfalls and hot springs. Soon after cameto mining camp, invited by cook for coffee and sandwiches, met headgeologist Vern ___ . Followed road 2 miles talked to wranglers. Climbedsteadily up valley between high peaks, arriving at bridge constructionnear Dutch Miller Gap. Talked and ate with Forest (Brazovitch) ServiceCrew, then crossed through Gap to Summit (Ivanhoe) Lake. Stopped atMemorial Cabin. Weather windy and cold. Saw deer on snowfield whenarriving. Cabin built by friends of three who died on mtn.






July 20 - SaturdayCooked breakfast, came to river.waded across. Paris fell from log.Came to Waptus Lake. At lower end met men + boys, packed in withhorse to fish. Talked. Awhile later met Forest (Forbes) Service Man onPinto horse. Turned on Trail Creek. Saw large waterfalls. Forded streamtwice.Passed near Deep Lake and Cathedral Peak. Turned east to worstclimb so far. Mosquitos were bad. Arrived Cle Elum.River campground at twilight.






July 21 - Sunday. Left campground about 8:00. Passed many cars.Talked to fishermen. Snowy mtns. and Cathedral Peak to left. Passed[[Hyas]] Lake. At Deception Pass met rear guard of Scout Troop fromSeattle. Passed scouts all 32 the way to Deception Lake. Just beyondmet Troop from Mukilteo (23) coming opposite direction to Lake. Wenton to Glacier Lake, where shelter occupied by 2 men and 2 boys.Talked awhile. Went on to Surprise Lake and bivouvaced.

At Deception Lake - met Troop 16 from Mukilteo, Washington - 20scouts and 3 leaders - Stemmer Trail Leader.






July 22. Monday. Rained all night. Woke wet, no breakfast. Climbedswitch backs. Cleared in Pass, lake below. Ate herring and brownsugar. Started snow and sleeting, this continued, with rain, fog and coldto Stevens Pass. Met Scout Troop at Hope Lake. Very muddy and wettrail to Stevens Pass. Ate at Summit Inn. Very nice owner - managerHarold Hanson.

[[Paris's]] friend, Bob Finney, took us to home in Everett for night.

People came in, said snowed out.






July 23 - TuesdayGot supplies and some equipmentin Everett, compass etc. Stayed withFinneys till afternoon, had fresh Salmonfor supper, They brought us to summitwhere we slept in dorm.Rained during night.






Wed - July 24Spent night in dorm. Left 8:00. Met ex-marine, wife and 3 boys. ArrivedValhalla Lake, 3 trail crew at Janus Lake cabin, was raining all day, butincreased to downpour after we left. Stiff climb up Grizzly Peak in fogand rain. Flushed grouse and chicks. Very muddy trail, to WenatcheePass. Weather wet and cold, camped. Spent cold wet night.






Thursday July 25Rain eased during night. Got gearpartially dry. Left at 10:00. NearPear Lake came to camp, with lots of equipment abandoned. Must havebeen people who came in at Stevens Pass, said snowed out. Justbeyond met family of four, two boys, gave us matches. A few milesfurther met another family of 4. Flushed another grouse, chicks hidden.Heard many grouse drumming. Weather clearing in afternoon. Came tohigh country, narrow trails to Susan [[corrected, possibly with anotherpen, to Sally] Anne Lake. Many snow banks, elev. 5700. Camped nearlake. Hunted hard for wood






Saturday - June 27Weather clear. Left about 10:00 - met and talked with Mr. Tucker, livesin nearest town, had dog along. Sidetrailed to Kennedy Hot Springs.People camped there. I turned back. Paris bathed and talked to ForestGuard. Ascended toward peak passed close to Kennedy Glacier &others. Spotted climbers high on glacier from switchback. Spotted againlower down from Two Bill spring. Arrived at Gray Bear Camp about 8:00and stopped. Very tired. Camped in open. Weather clouded, thencleared, half moon and stars. Camp in basin, many snow fields around






June 28 - SundayLeft about 8:30. Climbed switchback to Fire Creek Gap, elev. 6100.Clouds in valleys, view both ways wild and spacious. Descended acrossmany snowfields to Miea [[?]] lake. Met young man, (Pagel) and hikedwith him to Suiattle Road. Met 3 people enroute we had met at SnowLake. Also young couple fishing. Talked with 2 loggers at road. Metgroup hiking out, and 3 riders on trail to Canyon Creek Shelter, wherewe camped. Two men were camped nearby. Spent good night in cabin.Weather partly cloudy.






June 29 - MondaySoon after leaving Canyon Creek met Forest Patrol George Jones,horseback and pack mule. Turned on trail to Image Lake. Manywildflowers along many switchbacks to Miners Peak, where we visitedLookout man. Got maps of Crest Trail and Glacier Peak Area. Stoppedat Image Lake to take pictures and talk to people, several family groupsthere, Then hiked on about a mile to Trail Crew at Lady Camp. Cloudsclosed over peak. At dark saw 2 doe deer and 2 fawns close to tent.Weather cold. Slept in supply tent.






June 30 - TuesdayLeft about 8:00. At old mine camp met Doctor, wife, and variouschildren. He was having trouble with pack animals. Crossed SuiattlePass, last view of Glacier Peak. Then downgrade along Agnes Creek,Met trail crew building bridge, talked, later passed their camp, then saw2 burrows down trail. Tried to turn them back but they continued on. MetScout Troop from Moses Lake, Arrived at Swamp Creek and stopped fornight. Tried fishing had strikes but caught nothing. Deer came into campscrounged around fires. Later doe and fawn approached.Weather clear + mild.






June 31 - WednesdayLeft Swamp Creek about 8:00.Found a few ripe huckleberries. Descended Agnes Creek to head ofGorge. Arrived at Junction with Stehekin River, then guard station.Burros had arrived and were penned in corral. Talked to guard. Hephoned for transportation to town of Stehekin, on Lake Chelau. Man intruck took us down. Very windy over lake, one of most beautiful I've everseen. Sheer rock cliffs from water edge. Ate at cafe, send cards, gotgroceries at store. Thunder storm approaching as arrived guard station.Rode 5 miles on road to Clear Creek camp. in Jeep with boys fromOregon. Hiked with them toward glacier on side trail but rained hard andreturned to camp. Talked by fire till late.






Aug 1 - Thursday - slept on hay (good night)Cooked breakfast, Helped boys start Jeep. Hiked trail up Bridge creek,found many huckleberries, blue, black red. At forks climbed downcanyon to photo falls. At Hideaway Camp found dead saddle horse onside trail. Crest trail mostly open, sun very hot. Photod grouse. Came toScouts camped near stream. Gave us coffee and 8 trout to cook. 1/4farther stopped at mining camp. more coffee. Reported dead horse.Crossed Rainy Pass, bad blowdown area and went down Granite Creektwo miles to trail crew camp. Weather clear + cool.






Aug 2 - FridayFairly comfortable night. Left about 8:00 A mile farther at a camp met 2young men, talked awhile, went on and met 2 more at another camp.Later found many huckleberries while following stream down to GuardStation (Granite Creek). All four of the boys had passed while we wereeating lunch. They were now camped near the station. We campednearby. One was baking rolls made with yeast dough, using foilreflector. We talked by fire till 10:30. Weather clear and moderated.






Aug 3 - SaturdayCooked breakfast. Left at 8:00 weather clear and beautiful. FollowedCanyon Creek, crossed Mill Creek at ruins of mill, ate a few raspberries.Followed Slate Creek to Chancellor, meeting fisherman en route.Chancellor was mining town. Hiked 9 miles on road to Hart's Pass,stopped to talk to Guard at station stayed in nearby campground. Two ofthe four boys camped next to us. Mosquitos very bad. Bright full moonand cold night.






Aug 4 - SundayLeft Hart's Pass Campground about 8:00 Saw ravens on ridge top.Climbed to Slate Peak L.O. talked to lookout man. Excellent view allaround, Mt. Baker to west. visibility very good. Trail high on open slopes,many flowers, passed windy and Jim Gaps. Passed Holden Pass andbeautiful basin, then climbed to Goat Lake Camp, beautiful spot. 3 deer(2 bucks) came close to camp about sunset. Thunderstorm passed nearin afternoon. Sky now clear. Temperature cool.






Aug 5 - Mondaystarted about 8:00 climbed to pass. Started on blasted trail, heardshouting, then explosion, turned back and followed old trail below.Talked to trail crew, rerouting Crest trail. Came to windy Pass, high openslopes, talked to another trail crew. Came to Holman Pass,dissapointing. Came to Woody Pass Came to Lakeview Ridge; cookedlunch in pass, climbed to high point, with views every direction saw 3eagles. Elevation about 7000 ft. stayed about an hour on top. Mt. Bakerto west. 3 Foot peaks to south. Cone to north, lakes below. Went on toHopkins Pass. Decided to go toward Monument 83, not 78. Passedgrazed over land, arrived Chuchowanteon Cabin about 7:00 andcamped. Very light rain in intervals during afternoon. Weather at sunsetclear and moderate. Two boys also with us.






Aug 7 - Wednesday -Rose at 4:00 - bus finally arrived at 5:30. Arrived Vancouver 9:30. Leftat 10:30, passed through customs and arrived at Everett about 3:00P.M.Whet to Phinneys. Ate baked salmon






Aug 8 - Thursday

Rode to [[strikethrough]] Everett [[/strikethrough]] Seattlewalked waterfrontAte at Mary's Offshore Grill(Boat St)Photo of Washington University" on bridge leaving Seattle.Left at 8:30Slept except at rest stops until sunrise at Wallace, Idaho






Aug 9 - Friday[[circled text]] Photo of Great Northern Station in Wallace, Idaho at 5:30[[/circled text]]Moonlight night, got glimpses of eastern Washington. Stopped inSpokane.weather partly cloudy. crossed into [[strikethrough]] Wyoming[[/strikethrough]] Montana about 6:00.Stopped Missoula at 8:00 AMArrived Butte, Mon., at 11:00Ate and left about 12:00






Aug 9 - SaturdayArrived Fargo about 7:30Leaving at 8:15 weather fine






Ranger Tom MooreManning Park, B.C.Dear Sir,Regarding our return through customs at Vancouver into U.S.A. we hadno difficulty. Went through the routine check on the bus. We left PineWoods Lodge on the 4:40 bus.I am quite sure that Mon. 78 is the preferred northern end for theCascade Crest Trail, as I indicated when talking to you. As I said, thesigns, the markers, and the newly worked trail indicate this. I plan towrite the Supervisor of Mt. Baker National Forest, about our talk with youand suggest he send you all pertinent maps etc.






Phil JenkinsRt. 1 Box 143La Center, Wash.

George StraussRt. 1 Box 366La Center, Wash.






The groaning of a forest treefar off in the soft moonlight[[strikethrough]] On a lonely moonlit night [[/strikethrough]]Wierder than any sound shouldeKeen edging the silver [[somber]] night






Cascade BelleThe belle of the Cascade MountainsLives high in a lookout towerAdmirers she has beyond countin'For she has that mystic power

The power that can't be hiddenNo matter how hard she triesIt shows in her blush unbiddenAnd [[strikethrough]] it [[/strikethrough]] sparkles out of her eyes.

She watches for lightning firesAll [[strikethrough]] the [[/strikethrough]] day and all summer longThe unknown girl I admireThe queen of my mountain song






[[strikethough]] Call of the CascadesA wonderland of waterfallsAnd rocky crags and in betweenHidden Lakes and meadows and the timber tallAmong the snows but evergreen [[/strikethrough]]

CascadesA wonderland of waterfallAnd rocky crag and in betweenLake and meadow and timber tallAnd glimpse of snow through evergreen






[[underlined]] Tumbleweed [[/underlined]]Shaped to roll in the desert [[strikethrough]] wind [[/strikethrough]]breezeLeft in a gulch by random flood[[strikethrough]] The [[/strikethrough]] Symbol of whims and vagaries[[strikethrough]] So representative of its kind [[/strikethrough]]Left by the wind, stuck in the mud.






[[underlined]] Sight of The Rockies [[/underlined]]Mesa & butte and dune and sage and sunAnd Yonder far a great ridge topped with snowThe highway and the west call lead us onWhere pioneers crossed centuries ago.

Where is the challenge now? High in the blueSomewhere to something in the endless skies.Where is the end of everything that's new?Where is the prophet who can be that wise?






Robert Phinney1812 Rucker St. Everett. Wash----------------------------David Patrick BarryRt.#1, Box 597North Bend, Wash.-----------------------------Jack GihlshawBox 83Roslyn, Washington-----------------------------Warren Pagel6850 6th St. So.Kirkland, Wash.-----------------------------Dick Stone (phone J. Herbert Stone)((Boys in Jeep) Stehekin Road Seattle

[[each entry above written in different handwriting]]






Ranger Tom Moore,Manning Park,B.C.






-contrasting strangely to a passing glance

Exit Cheyenne

Lifting above the graceful grassy dunesWe leave the basin, sighting hills beyondThen far to starboard, looming white and gray(plaine)First of the Rockies, Jutting from theButtes are about us and the Remount RanchHidden by evergreens, and sheep cropped hillsStatue of Lincoln, gravely staring southLong shadows streaking from the scattered treesDown through the canyon, [[strikethrough]] in twilight again[[/strikethrough]] form a twilight zone.Opening to a valley and the townOf Laramie, far out in miniatureDwarfed by the western miles, then down we goBack to the modern, crowded city waysBits of the west, the ancient and the new.






Prairie SquallThe barley is yellow, the corn is greenThe flowering grasses are newly mownTo westward great masses of gray cloud meanThat rain will be lashing and winds will moan.

The banners of rain are upon us nowAs white as a blizzard but not as cold.Enriching the corn but robbing the mowA pattern of summer that's ages old






Des MoinesA sprawling group of villagesAround a core of stone and glassShaded & cooled by ponds and treesBounded by fields of corn & grass------------------------------OF IOWACorn is the crop the farmers growHogs are the animals they raiseTheir way of life is deep and slowLaughing at work, blushing at praise.While down the trail of life they goAnd could be worse in many ways

The gleaning years have made it soThe shirker goes, the worker stays.






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