Smart Clothes & Wearable Technology -...

http://artschool.newport.ac.uk/smartclothes

Smart Clothes & Wearable TechnologyJane McCann

NAADT Workshop 18.04.08


Multidisciplinary team

Developing a shared language that aims to take contemporary design

principles employing new and existing technologies, textiles and production

methods to create the next generation of apparel for the 21st century


FunctionalClothing

WearableElectronics

Fashion /Identity

Social Change

DesignProcesses

Computing/Electronics

Industry

Clothing &TextilesIndustry

Personal / SocialEconomic / Political

Smart Clothes andWearable Technology

Research Fields in Wearable Technology


Technology versus aesthetic appeal!


1980 Mid 1980’s Early 1990’s Mid 1990’s Late 1990’s


End-user driven

Driven by the application of technical textiles, micro-technologies and new

manufacturing techniques we aim to develop innovative smart clothing to

address end-user needs from technical, aesthetic and cultural view points

in products that work, look attractive and that are usable

Design Research & Development Process


Researchers, Scientists and

Designers

Product Development

ApparelConstruction

Textile Technology

Smart Technology

Intellectual Property

Knowledge Transfer

EducationProduct Launch and Marketing

End Users

Networking and collaborative working

Sustainable Research


Sport as an example


Military

Health & Wellness

Communications & Entertainment

Technology Mix forSportswear Design

Sportswear requires a cross-disciplinary mix of functionality


A design Research Group working in collaboration with the industry


Sportswear design has been accelerated

by innovation in technical textiles and

fibres since the 1970’s.


Small technical brands were developed

by individual athletes while ski-wear

introduced fashion


The attributes of modern sports clothing

and textiles can address the demands of

the 24 hour society, mixing work,

relaxation and everyday activities with

international travel


Cross-over of sportswear into streetwear

is now prevalent for all age groups as an

international way of dressing


In the successful design of

performance sportswear of today form

follows function.

Clothing must work, look good and be

appropriate for the culture of the end-

user.


Materials


GarmentPrototyping


Manufacture


Distributionand Promotion


End of Life


Smart Textiles &

Wearable Technology


How can the performance of sportswear

be enhanced through the application of

embedded technologies?


The sports community has been an early

adopter of wearable technologies.

The market continues to expand

rapidly

Descente 1997 Philips/Levi 2001 Burton 2003


Military Health & WellnessCommunications & Entertainment

LocationBody MovementVital sign monitoringIdentificationCamouflageChemical ProtectionPerformance analysisProtectionThermal regulationTactical informationSizing

Body movementLimb positionPulse rateRespiration rateTemperatureMuscle movementSpeedPredominant postureSafetyCalories intake/expenditureBody scanning

MusicVideoMobile phoneDiaryInternet accessGamingInfotainmentTour guidesMapslocal/regional/global info.etc...

Functionality applications relevant to sport

http://artschool.newport.ac.uk/smartclotheshttp://artschool.newport.ac.uk/smartclothes


There is a need for a design tool to

establish the end-user requirements for

the design development of performance

sportswear


Identification of End-User Needs


Commercial Reality


The Integration of Technologies into Textiles and Garments


Sports Layering System



Fibres and Yarns

X-Static


Second Skin / Bio-mimicry

Spe

edo

- F

astS

kin


Fal

ke -

Erg

onom

ic S

port

s

Second Skin / Seamfree


New Manufacturing Methods

Arc

’Ter

yx


Predominant Posture

Dai

nese

- t

eam

Ski

Su

it


Predominant Posture


Protection

Dai

nese

- M

ultis

port

Jac

ket

Nik

e -

Spe

ctra

Sui

t fo

r T

eam

US

A


Protection

Dow

Cor

ning

- A

ctiv

e P

rote

ctio

n

http://artschool.newport.ac.uk/smartclothes Bur

ton

- E

spio

nage

Jac

ket

Integrated Technology

Bur

ton

- A

udex

Ja

cket


Textile Sensors

Eleksen - ElekTex


Communication

Oak

ley

- R

azrw

ire


Body Monitoring

Tex

tron

ics

- N

uMet

rex

Adi

das

Po

lar

- F

usio

n


Nik

e +

iPo

d


Training

FR

WD

- b

ser

ies


Pum

a -

Tra

in A

way

Training


Smart Design = Smart Sportswear


End-userResearch

Fibres

EmbeddingTechnologies

TechnicalTextile Assemblies

New GarmentConstruction Methods

PerformanceSportswear Products


What Next?


Sizing Booth


Laser welding

Laser Weld Laser Sewing Machine

© 2005 TWI Ltd. © 2005 TWI Ltd.


magazin fabric rolls

operatorloading

of interlining

Feeding

Single-plyCutting

with 2 or 4cutting heads

Labeling

Scan of signed fabric errors and automatic new

Marker Making

Fusingall cut parts

RoboticHandlingTransfer to

transport system

Hanging ConveyorSystem

3-D Robot Sewingat flexible 3-D-model2-D Sewing

at hanging position

2-D Sewingat traditional sewing machines

Innovative garment production ô strategy concept (example jacket)Innovative garment production Strategy

concept (example jacket)

Philipp Moll - Office for Modern Sewing Technology


The Older Market


Embroidered Surgical Implants


New Dynamics of Ageing



Sustainable research

Meeting end-user needs through research to create

commercially viable products.

• Delivering near market prototypes.

• Support from technology companies and garment manufacturers sustained by sector growth.

• Value added products aimed at end user needs.

• Intellectual property.

• Knowledge Transfer


Contact Details

+44 (0)1633 432 823

[email protected]


www.wearablefutures.org


Smart Clothes & Wearable TechnologyJane McCann

NAADT Workshop 18.04.08


Multidisciplinary team

Developing a shared language that aims to take contemporary design

principles employing new and existing technologies, textiles and production

methods to create the next generation of apparel for the 21st century


FunctionalClothing

WearableElectronics

Fashion /Identity

Social Change

DesignProcesses

Computing/Electronics

Industry

Clothing &TextilesIndustry

Personal / SocialEconomic / Political

Smart Clothes andWearable Technology

Research Fields in Wearable Technology


Technology versus aesthetic appeal!


1980 Mid 1980’s Early 1990’s Mid 1990’s Late 1990’s


End-user driven

Driven by the application of technical textiles, micro-technologies and new

manufacturing techniques we aim to develop innovative smart clothing to

address end-user needs from technical, aesthetic and cultural view points

in products that work, look attractive and that are usable

Design Research & Development Process


Researchers, Scientists and

Designers

Product Development

ApparelConstruction

Textile Technology

Smart Technology

Intellectual Property

Knowledge Transfer

EducationProduct Launch and Marketing

End Users

Networking and collaborative working

Sustainable Research


Sport as an example


Military

Health & Wellness

Communications & Entertainment

Technology Mix forSportswear Design

Sportswear requires a cross-disciplinary mix of functionality


A design Research Group working in collaboration with the industry


Sportswear design has been accelerated

by innovation in technical textiles and

fibres since the 1970’s.


Small technical brands were developed

by individual athletes while ski-wear

introduced fashion


The attributes of modern sports clothing

and textiles can address the demands of

the 24 hour society, mixing work,

relaxation and everyday activities with

international travel


Cross-over of sportswear into streetwear

is now prevalent for all age groups as an

international way of dressing


In the successful design of

performance sportswear of today form

follows function.

Clothing must work, look good and be

appropriate for the culture of the end-

user.


Materials


GarmentPrototyping


Manufacture


Distributionand Promotion


End of Life


Smart Textiles &

Wearable Technology


How can the performance of sportswear

be enhanced through the application of

embedded technologies?


The sports community has been an early

adopter of wearable technologies.

The market continues to expand

rapidly

Descente 1997 Philips/Levi 2001 Burton 2003


Military Health & WellnessCommunications & Entertainment

LocationBody MovementVital sign monitoringIdentificationCamouflageChemical ProtectionPerformance analysisProtectionThermal regulationTactical informationSizing

Body movementLimb positionPulse rateRespiration rateTemperatureMuscle movementSpeedPredominant postureSafetyCalories intake/expenditureBody scanning

MusicVideoMobile phoneDiaryInternet accessGamingInfotainmentTour guidesMapslocal/regional/global info.etc...

Functionality applications relevant to sport


Girl GeekMemory aid systems, using an eye mounted camera and display.

This is a particularly small system, although if you look closely, you can still see the laptop in the back pack.


There is a need for a design tool to

establish the end-user requirements for

the design development of performance

sportswear


Identification of End-User Needs


Commercial Reality


The Integration of Technologies into Textiles and Garments


Sports Layering System



Sprayway Base layer


Left: Helly HannsenRight: Montane


Left: Polyester WaddingRight: The North Face - Padded Gilet


Sprayway Outwear


Sprayway Softshell

This type of comfortable, light weight, protective and easy care apparel has a particular relevance to promoting health and wellness and the demands of an ageing community.


Fibres and Yarns

X-Static

As with most effective smart wearable technologies - you can’t really see them.

X-Static has Anti-bacterial properties but is also a good conductor of electricity and has the potential to carry power and signals.


Left: Bogart BraRight: M&S � Magic Light Control Diamond Shorts�


Second Skin / Bio-mimicryS

peed

o -

Fa

stS

kin


Fal

ke -

Erg

onom

ic S

por

tsSecond Skin / Seamfree


Left: Patagonia - Bodymapped FleeceRight: WL Gore - Airvantage


New Manufacturing Methods

Arc

’Ter

yx

Smart in relation to textiles can refer to its breathability and wicking properties.

The way in which the garment is constructed can also give it smart attributes: the use of inverted zips to improve water and wind resistance has become popular of the last few years. There use of bonding and welding technologies to ensure watertight seams.

There is now also the incorporation of electronic technologies into clothing.


Predominant PostureD

ain

ese

- te

am

Ski

Su

it


Predominant Posture


ProtectionD

ain

ese

- M

ulti

spor

t Ja

cket

Nik

e -

Spe

ctra

Sui

t fo

r T

eam

US

A


Heathcoat 3D Spacers


Protection

Dow

Co

rnin

g -

Act

ive

Pro

tect

ion


Left: DaineseRight: Schoffel Ski Jacket incorporating d3o protectors


Berghaus - Heatcell Gilet, using EX02 technology

http://artschool.newport.ac.uk/smartclothes Bur

ton

- E

spio

nag

e Ja

cket

Integrated TechnologyB

urto

n -

Aud

ex J

acke

t

Left: BURTON AUDEX JACKETiPod and Mobile phone connectivity, using bluetooth technology

Right: BURTON ESPIONAGE JACKETintegrated slimline digital camera


Textile Sensors

Eleksen - ElekTex

This is a bigger version of the core technology used in the Spyder outfit in the last slide.

It is a textile sensor/switch made by Eleksen. It works by using a five layer textile system, 3 conductive and 2 spacer layers.It is a very durable system which can be screwed up into a ball and work just fine afterwards.


Left: Spyder Limited Edition iPod Jacket, using Eleksen� s Fabric SwitchRight: Eleksen - Elektex fabric switch


CommunicationO

akl

ey -

Ra

zrw

ire

An example of another accessory which incorporates technologies. Here Oakley have worked together with Motorola to create a Bluetooth head set which can be used with a mobile phone. Oakley also make a pair of glasses called ‘Thump’, it incorporate an earpiece on each arm which can be used to listen to MP3s.


Numetrex Heart Rate Monitoring Bra

Smart clothing and related textile products, with embedded technologies, provide an important interface between wearers and their environment. To bring emerging wearable technologies to near market products must function and look good. To date, many examples of well-designed apparel products, with wearable technologies, are within the sportswear sector.


Body MonitoringT

ext

roni

cs -

NuM

etr

ex

Adi

das

Pol

ar

- F

usi

on


Nik

e +

iPod

Nike + iPod records the time, distance, pace and calories burned in real time as you run (or, in my case, power walk). You can track those results on an iPod Nano and, after connecting the Nano to a computer, on the Nike+ website (nikeplus.com).


Training

FR

WD

- b

se

ries


Pum

a -

Tra

in A

wa

y

Training


Smart Design = Smart Sportswear


End-userResearch

Fibres

EmbeddingTechnologies

TechnicalTextile Assemblies

New GarmentConstruction Methods

PerformanceSportswear Products


What Next?


Sizing Booth


magazin fabric rolls

operatorloading

of interlining

Feeding

Single-plyCutting

with 2 or 4cutting heads

Labeling

Scan of signed fabric errors and automatic new

Marker Making

Fusingall cut parts

RoboticHandlingTransfer to

transport system

Hanging ConveyorSystem

3-D Robot Sewingat flexible 3-D-model2-D Sewing

at hanging position

2-D Sewingat traditional sewing machines

Innovative garment production ô strategy concept (example jacket)Innovative garment production Strategy

concept (example jacket)

Philipp Moll - Office for Modern Sewing Technology


The Older Market


The design development of functional clothing is approached from a product design, user-needs driven, perspective. Requirements capture of the technical, aesthetic and cultural demands of the identified end-user, informs the selection and positioning of textile assemblies within an ergonomically designed � system� .


Left: Vivometrics - LifeShirtRight: Lifecor - LifeVest

Consideration should be given to both the aesthetics and comfort of functional clothing. For wearable electronic technology to be truly useable the user interface must be simple and intuitive for an inclusive audience.


Embroidered Surgical Implants


New Dynamics of Ageing



�New Dynamics of Ageing Preparatory Network� promotes collaborative research under the topic � Design Enabling Autonomy and Independence through Smart Clothes and Wearable Technology.


Sustainable research

Meeting end-user needs through research to create

commercially viable products.

• Delivering near market prototypes.

• Support from technology companies and garment manufacturers sustained by sector growth.

• Value added products aimed at end user needs.

• Intellectual property.

• Knowledge Transfer


Contact Details

+44 (0)1633 432 823

[email protected]


www.wearablefutures.org

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