Slovenian Istria In Your Pocket

Explore the CountrysidePicturesque villages, terraced vineyards and countless hiking and cycling opportunities

Istrian CuisineYou’re guaranteed to eat well at the coast, especially if you like seafood

Including Koper, Izola, Piran, Portorož,

Postojna and the Karst

2014/2015

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Slovenian Istria

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well- written series of guidebooks.”

The New York Times

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Issue N°6 - FREE COPY

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Contents

E S S E N T I A LC I T Y G U I D E S

2014

Arrival & Transport 5Planes, trains, buses and cars

Koper 6The capital of the coast

Izola 12A fishing village with soul

Piran 18Slovenia’s prettiest town

Portorož 24A top resort destination

The Karst 28Explore this amazing inland region

Postojna 32More than just a cave

Maps 36

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www.adriaservice-yachting.com

Socerb Castle offers breathtaking views as far as the eye can see, photo by Ubald Trnkoczy

In recent years, the Port of Koper has seen increasing arrivals from cruise ships, photo by Ubald Trnkoczy

4 Slovenian Istria In Your Pocket slovenian-istria.inyourpocket.com 2014/2015 5 facebook/slovenia.inyourpocket

Arriving & Getting AroundForeword

Publisher IQBATOR Ltd.Slovenian In Your PocketDrenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia, Tel. +386 30 316 [email protected]

DirectorNiko Slavnic [email protected]

Printed Eurograf Published Once per yearMaps Monolit

EditorialManaging Editor Yuri BarronWriters Will Dunn, James Cosier, John BillsLayout & Design Radomir LazovićConsulting Craig TurpPhotos Local tourist associations, Shutterstock, Slovenia In Your PocketCover photo www.kpss.si / Creative Commons license

Sales & Operations ManagementIrena Jamnikar, Karmen Hribar, Stanka Parkelj Rozina, Leon Šlajpah

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o. Maps copyright car-tographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the pur-pose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinų 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).

E S S E N T I A LC I T Y G U I D E S

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CZECHREPUBLIC

SOUTHAFRICA

POLAND

ROMANIAHUNGARY

SERBIABOSNIA

ALBANIAGREECE

FYR MACEDONIA

BULGARIAMONTENEGRO

ITALYCROATIASLOVENIA

AUSTRIASWITZERLAND

UKRAINE

GEORGIA

BELARUS

LITHUANIA

LATVIA

ESTONIA

RUSSIA

GERMANYBELGIUM

NETHERLANDS

NORTHERNIRELAND

IRELAND

GettinG to istriAThe Slovene coast is well-connected to the rest of the country by trains and buses (usually requiring a transfer in the capital Ljubljana if you’re planning to go further), but getting to or from neighbouring Italy or Croatia on pub-lic transport is surprisingly difficult, in spite of the fact that you can literally see one or both of them at nearly all times. Coming by car is usually the best option, as it’s not only much faster, but also allows easily exploration of the beau-tiful countryside, although parking in or near the old town centres can be a complicated and/or expensive proposi-tion, especially in Piran.

bY PlAneWhile Portorož technically has it’s own international airport, there are currently not any regularly scheduled flight operat-ing, although if you have your private jet or are arriving on a chartered flight it is obviously the most convenient option. However, for the non-Jet Set, the nearest airports are Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport (LJU) situated near the city of Kranj some 125km from Koper, Ronchi dei Legionari Airport (TRS) north of Monfalcone a bit over 60km away, and Venice Marco Polo Airport (VCE), the latter offering by far the most direct interna-tional connections. During the summer season, there are also cheap budget flights and many charters to Pula, Rijeka and other towns along the norther Croatian coast.

bY trAinIf you’re coming to coast by train, the station in Koper is the end of the line, so if that’s not your final destination you’ll have to take a local bus, taxi, bike or a long walk from there. From Ljubljana there are five trains per day (six at week-ends), which take two to three hours and cost €9-11 for 2nd class. If you’re planning a weekend you can take advan-tage of special return fares. More info can be found on the site of Slovenian Railways at www.slo-zeleznice.si. Koper’s railway station is situated about 1km due south of the old town gates, and offers an ATM and luggage storage but not much else. However, it’s conveniently located right next to the bus station, which makes onward travel a breeze.

bY busThere are a dozen or more buses between Ljubljana and Koper on weekdays and few less at the weekends, which can take anywhere between 1.5 and 2.5 hours. Be aware that the vast majority of these go to Koper in the morn-ing hours, and return to the capital in the evening. The fares are similar to those for trains, but most of the buses also travel onwards to Izola and Portorož. In all towns at the coast the main bus stations (or sometimes just a stop) are located in or very near the centre, and local buses will make lots of stops so make sure to check which will get you nearest where you ultimately want to go. Tickets can be purchased from the driver, or in advance at bus stations in larger towns.

bY CArComing to the Slovene coast by car not only allows you more freedom during your stay, but is also considerably faster than public transport. The drive from Ljubljana to Koper should take just about an hour, while Bled is only 1.5 hours away and Maribor on the other side of the country is just over two hours. Unless you get lost or stuck in traffic (the latter be-ing more common), it shouldn’t take much more than 30 minutes to get between any two points in the region, as this is the average time from Koper to Piran at the far end of Slovene territory. Some the country’s most popular tourist sites are also very close, including the white horses of Lipica (30km), Škocjan Caves (35km) and Postojna Cave (58km), while Trieste in Italy is only 22km. If you’re coming with your own car, don’t forget to purchase a vinjeta sticker for your windscreen at the border if you plan on using the motor-ways - this is the system that replaced tolls some years ago.

boAt ChArtersAdrIA ServIce YAchTIngThere’s no better way to experience the Adriatic sea than on a private boat. However, if like us you’re not fortunate enough to have your own vessel, don’t worry, Adria Service Yacht-ing have a fleet of nearly two dozen sail boats, power boats, luxury yachts and catamarans on which you can experience your dream holiday. Standard charters are by the week, espe-cially during the peak summer season, but day and weekend charters are also possible, as are excursion, business trips and team-building activities. Adria Service Yachting is also a fully licensed travel agency, which means they can arrange ac-commodation and airport transfers, as well as organise your participation in one of the many regattas that take place int eh Adriatic each year, including the most famous of them all, Trieste’s Barcolana.Q6310, Tomažičeva 2, tel. +386 (0)5 640 1102/+386 (0)5 640 1103, [email protected], adriaservice-yachting.com.

tAxis TAxI ŠTefAnŠtefan is the man to call for all your transport needs, in-cluding day tours and longer transfers to and from the rest of Slovenia, as well as Croatia and Italy. Fixed prices can be found on the website.QObala 122, tel. +386 (0)51 303 100, prevozi-portoroz.com.

TAXI ŠTEFAN

+386 51 303 100e-mail: info@prevozi-portoroz-com

051 303 100

ALEJA - PERSONAL TRANSPORT - NON STOP 24 /7

Even amongst Slovenes the phrase ‘I’m going to the coast’ more often than not refers to a trip south to Croatia, which is understandable, as not only were they part of the same country just over two decades ago, but the Croatian main-land and its numerous islands cover some 5,835km of Med-iterranean coast, which makes Slovenia’s 47km (or 46.6km to be exact) somewhat comical in comparison. However, to quote the philosopher Plato: ‘Necessity is the mother of invention’, and since the current national borders were established following the Second World War, Slovenia has made the most of what it was left with, giving it what is in our not so humble opinion centimetre for centimetre the finest coastline in the world!Lest you think we’re just wantonly throwing around hyper-bole (which admittedly wouldn’t be the first time, as we are a tourist guide after all), take a minute and tell us where else along a less than 50km stretch of the Mediterranean one can find two still-functioning ancient salt pans, a protected nature reserve, a major shipping port and cruise liner termi-nal, several well-preserved Venetian old towns, kilometres of waterfront cycling and walking paths, an international airport, one of Europe’s top nightclubs, both large public beaches and small secluded swimming spots, a breakaway municipality that was the subject of a recent constitu-tional court ruling, the highest cliff on the entire Adriatic, a modern seaside resort town, countless major events held throughout the year and lots of other things we’re likely for-getting at the moment. Go ahead, we’ll wait!In all serious though, the Slovene coast, like the country itself, offers visitors an incredibly diverse selection of things to see, do and experience, and we’ve tried our best to in-clude many of them in the following pages, while much more info can be found on our website. As always we wel-come any and all feedback, be it on Facebook, Foursquare, Twitter or even old-fashioned email.


KoperKoper

The somewhat kitsch slogan used by Slovenia’s neighbours to describe their coastline is “the Mediterranean as it used to be.” Slovenians are more clever than that. That’s why one local of the gorgeous seaside town of Koper told Koper In Your Pocket that the Slovenian coast is in fact, simply, “the Mediterranean as it is.” Brilliant, as is Koper, a town of not all that many people just an hour from Ljubljana, yet in attitude and outlook it might just as well be one million miles away. If Ljubljana reeks of Austrian influence, Koper is Slovenia’s Italian connection. “It’s Slovenia, Jim, but not as we know it.”Wandering around Koper’s Old Town, all narrow streets and Venetian-style houses, you could be forgiven that you had indeed crossed the border into Italy. You are as liable to hear Italian spoken as Slovenian, there are Italian signs everywhere, and it’s all a reminder that the border between one country and another has never really mattered all that much in these parts. Always something of a blur, it disappeared forever three years ago when Slovenia joined the Schengen block.

restAurAnts cITYburgerDon’t be fooled by the name, Cityburger is decidedly not a simple fast food joint. Not only does the interior have the ap-pearance of an country bistro, but the menu also offers an enormous selection - with dozens of pizzas, steak, seafood, pasta and salads all vying for your attention. Of course they also prepare some tasty burgers, including the namesake Cityburger, which boasts a jaw-breaking two beef patties

and three pieces of bread (although for the record we usu-ally opt for either the bacon or chicken burger). Located in Koper’s main commercial district just east of the old town centre, there is plenty of free parking available.QG-2, An-karanska 7, tel. +386 (0)5 630 9920/+386 (0)41 93 49 32, [email protected], www.cityburger.si. Open 10:00 - 24:00. PTALVBS

ISTrSKA KleT SlAvčeKFantastic! Plates of sea food nibbles such as deep fried squid in batter served as appetisers or simple snacks for the many locals who come here for lunch or an early dinner. There is also for once a good non-fish menu: check the daily specials on the blackboard, like the brilliant minestrone soup. Super location too, and plenty of outside seating.QB-5, Župančičeva 39, tel. +386 (0)5 627 67 29. Open 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat. (€3-9.5). JULGBK

PeKIngOne of four popular Chinese restaurants run by the Ji family from Shanghai, Koper’s Peking is located just south of the H5 motorway near the Mercator Centre. Known for its extensive menu, huge portions and friendly service, this is our favourite place for authentic Chinese food on the coast. Try to grab a table in the garden, where you can dine amongst bamboo trees and intimate lighting under the smiling gaze of a large Buddha statue.QF/G-5, Cesta Marežganskega Upora 13, tel. +386 (0)5 625 08 08, www.kitajska-restavracija.si. Open 12:00 - 23:00. PTAL

PIzzerIA 33We’re not sure if there are 33 pizzas on offer, however there are enough to cause headaches when choosing. Pizza 33 also offers a range of dishes from grilled meats and local seafood to pastas and salads. Whilst the drinks list isn’t quite as expansive as the food menu it is nice to have options other than Laško and Union. The pizzeria is located on the coast road between Koper and Izola with views of the sea. It’s a bit hard to reach without a car though they do deliver.QIstrska 67, tel. +386 (0)5 90 12 580/+386 (0)31 33 33 96, www.pizza33.si. Open 10:00 - 24:00.

SArAjevo ‘84Voted by In Your Pocket readers as the best Balkan restaurant in Ljubljana for 2013, Koper is now the third city in the country (with nearby Piran being the other) to have this unofficial rep-resentative of the Bosnian capital turning out delicious grilled meat dishes, which are inevitably washed down with bottles of famous Sarajevsko beer and followed by authentic Turkish coffee. Located at the eastern edge of Koper’s old town, this restaurant themed on Sarajevo’s shining moment in the inter-national spotlight back when it hosted the Winter Olympics in 1984 is a fine place to fill up before or after exploring the city’s sights.QF-1, Gramšijev Trg 8, tel. +386 (0)8 383 59 44, www.sarajevo84.si.

SKIPPerThe seamen’s and sailor’s choice, the highlight of this place in the heart of the harbour is the raised terrace over-looking the marina and shipyards. Expect to dine very well

on huge pieces of fresh fish caught that day. Wash it down with a couple of the great local wines on the menu.QE-1, Kopališko nabrežje 3, tel. +386 (0)5 626 18 10, [email protected], www.skipper-koper.com. Open 11:00 - 22:00 Holidays 11:00-22:00. JAGBK

vodIŠeKThis restaurant at the family-run BIO hotel has a long tradi-tion of preparing large portions of local cuisine for both guests and non-guests alike. House specialities include fresh fish prepared on a wood-fired grill and succulent slow roasted meat dishes, as well as various pasta and vegetarian options. Three separate dining areas can fit between 12 and 150 people, while there’s also a shady outdoor terrace open during the warmer months.QVan-ganelska 2, tel. +386 (0)5 625 88 84, [email protected], www.hotel-bio.si.

TIC KOPER, Titov trg 3, KoperT: +386 5 6646 403E: [email protected]

www.koper-card.si

tourist inforMAtion

Koper’s well-stocked tourist information centre is lo-cated in the centre of town on Tito Square. The friendly multi-lingual staff will gladly make recommendations for what to see and do both in Koper and the surround-ing countryside, and free brochures and maps can be found for pretty much everything there is to see and do in the region.QB-4, Titov Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)5 664 64 03, [email protected], www.koper.si. Open daily 09:00-20:00 (June-Sept), and 09:00-17:00 (Oct-May).

Koper’s fine Venetian old town is not to be missed, photo by Jaka Jeraša


KoperKoper

siGhtseeinGKoper, the Old Town at least, is one big sight. The joy of coming here is to wander its streets, often getting lost, mixing with lo-cals, visitors and hoardes of day trippers. Old Town’s main street -if you can call it that - is Cevljarska, which is no more than two or three metres wide in places, and is packed from dawn to dusk when it, like most of Old Koper, disappears inside. Cevljar-ska leads up from Muda Gate to the town’s main square, Titov Trg, which is dominated by the bell tower of the St Mary’s of the Assumption Cathedral, visible from all over Koper.

bell TowerRising up 54m from the centre of the old town, the city’s famed Bell Tower, will likely be the first sight visitors see no matter if they’re arriving by road, rail or sea. Originally part of a Roman fortification, the tower was transformed into its pres-ent appearance between the 15th and 17th centuries, and has been used for liturgical purposes ever since. Panoramic views of the entire region (weather permitting of course) can be had by ascending 204 steps to reach the viewing platform at 43m.QB-4, Titov Trg. Summer hours 09:00-14:00, 16:00-21:00. €2 per person.

cAThedrAl of MArY’S ASSuMPTIonKoper’s cathedral originally dates back to the 12th century when the city acquired its own diocese, and a Roman basilica actually stood on the same location as far back as ancient times. The current façade combines architectural styles, with a Gothic lower half and a noticeably Renaissance upper half. Inside the Cathedral there are numerous sights of note includ-ing the large altarpiece ‘Madonna with Child on the Throne of Saints’ by Vittore Carpaccio from 1516, the 15th century stone sarcophagus of St Nazarius (Koper’s patron saint), and an organ decorated with two additional painting by Carpac-cio, ‘The Presentation in the Temple’ and ‘The Slaughter of the Innocents’. The entire interior was redecorated by the famous Italian architect Giorgio Massari in the 18th century.QB-4, Titov Trg. No admission fee.

PrAeTorIAn PAlAceDominating the southern side of Tito Square is the imposing yet beautifully ornate Praetorian Palace, which has served as the municipal seat for some eight centuries. It’s Venetian Gothic design dates from the middle of the 15th century, with

the outer staircase and balustrade added fifty years later, and the overall appearance of the façade taking shape in 1664 after significant renovations. After serving various purposes following the downfall of the Venetian Republic at the hands of Napoleon in 1797, the building underwent a decade long restoration in the 1990s and now once again serves as the municipal seat and mayor’s office, as well as the Tourist Infor-mation Centre.QB-4, Titov Trg 3. Free guided tours can be arranged in advance through TIC.

TAvernA (ST MArK’S SAlT wArehouSe)For much of the past millennium salt production served an important role along Slovenia’s coastal region, with documented exploitation of the salt pans dating from

Stretching to the south and east of Koper, the rolling hills and valleys of the Istrian countryside are dotted with ancient vil-lages, Roman ruins, cliff-top churches and countless hiking and cycling trails just waiting to be explored. You’ll likely need your own car, or at least a driver, to reach most of what the re-gion has to offer in a timely fashion, but the wealth and prox-imity of sights makes renting an easily justifiable expense. We’ve listed a few of our favourites below, but for a complete run down of all there is to see or do - as well as maps and other info - visit either the Koper or Ankaran tourist offices.

berToKILocated just off the Koper-Trieste road near the Rižana River, Bertoki is a small settlement formerly known as Rižan-Lazaret or simply Lazaret. The village boasts a gorgeous little parish church dedicated to Mary’s Assumption, which displays the 400 year-old ‘Crucified Christ’ painted by an unknown local artist. Next to the church is a Venetian-style bell tower added in the 18th century. The area was once famous as for the sprawling summer manors that belonged to the noble families of Koper, and a tree-lined promenade leading to the church still remains from this time.Today Bertoki is home to the only surviving colonial estate in the Primorska region, which is a protected cultural heritage site. The nearby Škocjanski Zatok nature reserve (established in 1998) is easily combined with a visit to the village.

črnI KAlThe village of Črni Kal lies just off the main motorway a dozen or so kilometres east of Koper, at the natural border of the Karst region. For most visitors, the most immediately noticeable feature of the area, is the enormous Črni Kal Via-duct. Completed in 2004, at 1065m long and 95m high, it’s currently the longest bridging structure in the country.Conspicuously perched on the rocky cliffs above the vil-lage are the remnants of an 11th century fortress, which was part of the defence system of the Venetian Republic,

while on another nearby hill there’s the odd-looking bell tower of the Baroque Church of St Valentine. Dating from 1680, the tower now has a noticeable lean to it, and is se-cured in place by steel wires.The village itself, has typical Istrian-Karst architecture with numerous decorative stone details. One house in particular, the so-called Benkova Hiša, is officially considered to be the oldest farmhouse in Slovene and the earliest example of Slo-vene folk architecture, dating from 1489. The rocky slopes above the village offer over 100 climbing routes of various levels of difficulty, and provide spectacular views of the val-leys and hills below leading towards Koper and the sea, and there are even more hiking and cycling opportunities in the surrounding countryside.

hrASTovljeThe Istrian village of Hrastovlje is most famous for its Church of the Holy Trinity, which dates back to the 13th century. The entire interior of the the church is covered in frescoes by the 15th century Slovene artist Janez of Castua, including the eerily enchanting Dance of Death or Danse Macabre [editor’s note: this is also the title of a great album by an indie dance punk band from Omaha called The Faint].Most of the equally impressive other works take their themes from the various parts of the Old Testament, and some include inscriptions in Glagolitic - the oldest known Slavic alphabet, developed by Saints Cyril and Methodius in the 9th century. The church is surrounded by 16th cen-tury walls with two defence towers, originally built to fend off the Ottomans.The quaintly picturesque Hrastovlje village, with its tradi-tional Istrian architecture, is also worth a stroll, and as with many of the village in the area it’s a popular starting point for hiking, cycling and motorcycle trips into the surrounding countryside. For art lovers two galleries in the centre of the village are also worth perusing, the Jože Pohlen Gallery and the Victor Snoj Gallery.

Around KoPer

Ankaranska 7, Koper Every day from 8 to 24 h

Koper’s bell tower is the city’s trademark sight, photo by YMB

Discover the Church of the Holy Trinity and its famous frescoes in Hrastovlje, photo by Ubald Trnkoczy


KoperKoperas early as 1182. Taking up the lion’s share of Carpaccio Square on the western edge of the old town is the Tav-erna building, which formerly served as a salt warehouse before becoming at various times an inn, a fish market and of course a tavern. Today the structure is used as a multi-purpose space for various events, including many live concerts and other performances.QA-4, Carpacciov Trg.

gAlerIjA MeduzAAn excellent collection of contemporary art by various local artists, all of which is for sale. Friendly staff will help with onward shipping should you require.QB-5, Čevljarska 34, tel. +386 (0)5 627 48 37. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

KoPer regIonAl MuSeuMHoused inside a wonderful Venetian Palace, the Koper Regional Museum presents a rather condensed history of Koper, Izola and Piran. While there’s precious little to actually see, there are some rather nice paintings to ad-mire, and the building is wonderful. Walking around is not the worst way in the world to kill half an hour.QA-4, Kidričeva 19, tel. +386 (0)5 663 35 70, [email protected]. Sep-Jun Mon-Fri10:00-18:00, Sat and Sun 09:00-13:00; Jul-Aug: 09:00-13:00, Tue-Sun 18:00-21:00, Mon closed.

MuzejSKA gAlerIjAPart of the Koper Regional Museum (which is next door), the gallery museum presents changing exhibitions of vari-

ous interest throughout the year. When we last visited the current exhibition was a superb presentation of the role of profane art and music in Venetian society. Check the gallery’s website for details of current exhibitions.QA-4, Kidričeva 21, tel. +386 (0)5 663 35 70. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

KoPer cITY beAch (MeSTno KoPAlIŠče KoPer)Koper’s small pebble beach lacks sand, but is a lovely place to soak up the sun or to swim in the warm (depending on the time of year of course) water. You will find it on Kopa-lisko Nabrežje, next to the marina. There are large areas of lawns for sunbathing, and an enclosed swimming area. Lifeguards are on hand to make sure you do not swim off out into the boating lanes. There are changing rooms, showers, children’s playgrounds, a restaurant and a café.QE-1, Kopališko Nabrežje 1, tel. +386 (0)5 627 81 78.

ACCoMModAtionbIoIn the newer part of town, some way from the Old Town (but accessible by bus) the Bio is a good choice for those on a bud-get. Rooms are simple but rather nice, and considering the almost negative cost you get plenty of value for your money. There’s an onsite restaurant complete with a terrace serving local specialities.QVanganelska 2, tel. +386 (0)5 625 88 84, fax +386 (0)5625 88 85, [email protected], www.hotel-bio.si. 29 rooms (singles €38-53, doubles €57-79, triples €76). PTHAR6LGBKW hhh

hoSTel hISTrIAA much welcomed (and much needed) addition to the budget accommodation at the Slovene coast, the reno-vated historical building has had some of its centuries-old charm preserved in the form of stone walls, wooden shutters and heavy iron fixtures, and is conveniently lo-cated just around the corner from Prešeren Square and the main southern entrance to the old town, within easy walking distance from the train and bus stations and just steps away from several popular pubs, cafés and restau-rants.QB-5, Pri Velikih Vratih 17, tel. +386 (0)8 38 240 38, [email protected], www.hostel-histria.si. Two 8-bed and three 6-bed dorms, (€13-15/person Oct-April, €15-17 May-Sept). JW

gArnI hoTel PrISTAnThough it looks less than promising from the outside, this is just about the best hotel in town, and as such is the default choice of the business classes. It’s spick, span, and the well sized rooms are faultlessly attired. Bathrooms are great, there are plenty of freebie toiletries and the staff are both friendly and helpful in a wide variety of languages. Note that not all rooms have balconies, and as there is no extra cost for such luxuries ask for one when reserv-ing or checking in.QG-1, Ferrarska 30, tel. +386 (0)5 614 40 00, [email protected], pristan-koper.si. 10 rooms and 6 suites (singles €77, doubles €60, triples €50). PJHAULGBKDCW hhhh

KoPerThe only full-sized hotel located within Koper’s old town, what its name lacks in originality it makes up for in loca-tion - with its façade dominating the waterfront prom-enade opposite the small harbour and the statue-packed Hlavatyev Park. Part of Terme Čatež chain of hotels, resorts and spas, it comes with the standard 3-star amenities and great views from most of the rooms. There are also two onsite conference halls for business or other events.QA-4/5, Pristaniška 3, tel. +386 (0)5 610 05 00, fax +386 (0)5 610 05 94, [email protected], www.terme-catez.si. 55 rooms, 10 suites (singles €74-92, doubles €114-150). PTHRULGBK hhh

PAdnA APArTMenTSSet at the edge of the idyllic village of Padna in the heart of Slovenia’s Istrian region, these two large, well-furnished apartments are a perfect combination of tra-ditional style and modern amenities. Both apartments have multiple bedrooms, bathrooms, a living room and kitchen on two floors, as well as access to a balcony and terrace with sweeping views of the surrounding countryside. Padna is easily accessible from anywhere on the coast, with the most direct route being directly south of Koper on the road to Pula. Booking in advance is highly recommended during peak seasons.QPadna 65b, tel. +386 (0)40 432 077, [email protected], www.apartmajipadna.si. Apartment A4 €60-90, Apartment A5 €90-120. Bikes can be rented for only €3/day. PTAL

vIllA AndorHoused in a beautifully preserved centuries-old Vene-tian-style villa, Andor enjoys protected historic status as it had previously served as both a private and of-ficial state residence before being opened as a hotel in the mid-90s. Its 14 double rooms all come with antique furnishings as well as modern amenities, and most have at least partial sea views. Try to request room four (the Honeymoon suite), which has French doors open-ing onto a large private balcony.QVinogradniška Pot 9, tel. +386 (0)56 15 50 00/+386 (0)41 65 51 00, fax +386 (0)56 15 50 17, [email protected], www.andor.si. 14 rooms (singles €50-55, doubles €80-90). POA6ILBKX

vodIŠeKAbout half-way between the Old Town and the bus and train stations, the Vodisek is a good budget choice. Expect distinctly average rooms but at a more than reasonable price, and friendly staff eager to help you find your way around their town. The terrace café gets busy with locals and appears to be a centre of gossip. All adds to the fun of staying here. Note the recep-tion is around the back, through the shopping mall.QF-2, Kolodvorska 2, tel. +386 (0)5 639 24 68/+386 (0)41 634 877, fax +386 (0)5 639 36 68, [email protected], www.hotel-vodisek.com. 33 rooms (singles €59, doubles 88, triples €107)44,2544,35. THR6ULBK hhh

FROM 12.99 €Ulica pri velikih vratih 176000 KOPER

tel.: +386 838 24 [email protected]


IzolaIzola

the main dining room, there is a large terrace that can be transformed into an enclosed winter garden during colder months, and a small private salon with a fireplace that can be reserved for special occasions. After dinner you can head to the equally grand wine cellar downstairs.QKorte 44b, tel. +386 (0)5 620 96 57, [email protected], www.hisa-torkla.si. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.

MArInAIn spite of the stereotypes often associated with hotel restaurants, Marina is widely regarded as one of the best in town, and considering the top quality it’s a surprisingly good-value option for those looking for a bit more upscale dining whilst in Izola. Under the watchful eye of master chef Ivica Evačić-Ivek, the kitchen strictly adheres to the motto of ‘From the sea to the plate’, which to be fair is only a journey of a few metres given that the hotel is set right on the harbour.QA-1, Veliki Trg 11, tel. +386 (0)5 660 41 00, [email protected], www.hotelmarina.si. Open 12:00-23:00 in spring/summer, 12:00-22:00 in autumn/winter. PJALBW

MAnjAdASet high above the road overlooking the San Simon Resort and Adriatic sea in the distance, Manjada is an excellent choice for lunch or dinner, combining the modern dining experience with a homey traditional-style. House special-ties included meat and seafood dishes from a charcoal grill,

fresh fish from the Adriatic, and every kind of pizza imag-inable, with the daily lunch specials always a good choice. For a real treat, come for dinner and try one of the excellent (and very reasonably priced) five-course tastings menus, with each course accompanied by a perfectly matched Slo-vene wine.QMorova 25d, tel. +386 (0)5 64 16 321, www.gostilna-manjada.si. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon.

PergolAOpen only during the peak tourist season, you can be assured of fresh ingredients and a crowded house at this seafood restaurant found at Hotel Delfin near the en-trance to the marina. Free parking for guests in another added benefit, and another likely reason why the place is popular amongst locals and others who aren’t staying at the hotel or even visiting its pools.QTomažičeva 10, +386 (0)5 6607 421, www.hotel-delfin.si. Open 10:00-21:00 from April till October. PTAL

rIbIčLocated beside Izola’s picturesque fishing port in the cen-tre of town, Gostilna Ribič has been pleasing customers for more than 140 years. After enjoying a relaxed weekend lunch we can see why its still around, the atmosphere is authentically rustic, the service friendly, and they even serve a complimentary appetiser. Ribič (‘fisherman’ in Slovene) are specialists at preparing (surprise surprise) the freshest seafood and their classic Adriatic and Mediterra-nean dishes are delicious as are the local wines on offer. The non-seafood items on the menu look good as well, though we turn into pescatarians whenever we’re at the coast.QA-1, Veliki Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)5 641 83 13, www.ribic.biz. Open 10:00 - 23:00.

Still an easygoing fishing village at heart, Izola doesn’t get nearly as much love as some of Slovenia’s other coastal towns and is often overlooked by tourists racing by on their way to Piran for a day trip. However, as far as we’re concerned it’s a beautiful little Venetian port town with enough amenities to keep you comfortable, windy old streets to wander and sights to see to make it a worthwhile destination in its own right.

restAurAntsguŠTOne of several places within a block of each other on Drevored 1. Maja (or The 1st of May Avenue), Gušt always seems to have the fewest empty seats on its long terrace, and for good reason. Its thick menu has a bit of everything, but for our money the brick oven pizzas are probably the best in town. For those staying farther afield they also deliv-er to most nearby areas.QE-2, Drevored 1 Maja 5, tel. +386 (0)41 67 59 53/+386 (0)41 65 03 33, [email protected]. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (€4.5-19). JAVBS

goSTIŠče obAlALocated in the Jadranka Avtokamp along the waterfront just east of town, this no frills restaurant offers a relaxed and authentic dining experience without the crowds of the city centre, with free parking and panoramic views of the old town offering further enticement. Grilled meat and vege-table dishes are well-represented on the menu, as of course

are fish and other seafood specialities, while the award-winning pizza is what draws many a local family here. Fresh locals ingredients from surrounding countryside are used, and prices are incredibly reasonable. It’s open year-round for lunch, and dinner as well during the high season.QPolje 8 (Avtokamp Jadranka), tel. +386 (0)41 528 787, [email protected], avtokamp-jadranka.si.

goSTIlnA KorTeLocals and tourists alike make regular pilgrimages up into the hills between Izola and Portorož to dine at this tradi-tional inn. The menu has a mix of Slovene, Mediterranean and regional Istrian dishes, and a great selection of local wines - a bottle of which should be mandatory with any meal. It’s also not a bad place to come for a drink if you need an excuse to get out and enjoy the fresh air, but are not in the mood to eat.QKorte 44, tel. +386 (0)5 642 02 00/+386 (0)41 60 78 63, [email protected], www.gostilnakorte.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue.

hIŠA TorKlASituated in a beautifully restored traditional 19th-century Istrian house in the charming hilltop town of Korte, the cuisine at Hiša Torkla is just as exceptional as the setting. Prepared using fresh seasonal ingredients from local farm-ers, hunters and fishermen, many of the dishes are based on age-old Slovene recipes with a little bit of modern in-novation from head chef Sebastijan Kovačič. In addition to

Gostilna in Pizzeria ManjadaMorova 25d, 6310 Izola

Tel: 05/64 16 321www.gostilna-manjada.si

tourist inforMAtion

A bit more difficult to find after moving from the water-front promenade to a parallel pedestrian street just around the corner, the newly renovated premises now stock a large selection of gifts and souvenirs (including a whole wall full of local wines) in addition to the usual brochures and guides. To get there take the small alleyway next to the municipal building at Sončno Nabrežje 8, and turn left when you reach the end.QA-2, Ljubljanska 17, tel. +386 (0)5 640 10 50, fax +386 (0)5 640 10 52, [email protected], www.izola.eu. Open 09:00-16:00, Sat 10:00-14:00, and closed Sun (Sep-May); 09:00-19:00, Sun 09:00-17:00 (June); everyday 09:00-20:00 (July-Aug).

The town of Izola was formerly an island, hence the name (isola is is Italian for island), photo courtesy of Tourism Izola

KiloMetre ZeroIn order to promote the rich culinary heritage of the Istria region, the Tourist Association of Izola in coopera-tion with the town’s Chamber of Craft and Small Busi-ness has developed the Kilometre Zero initiative, which both encourages and ensures the use of local products, and also organises various ongoing events under one unique brand. Currently, 18 restaurants within the mu-nicipality of Izola have joined the project, meaning that at least 80% of their ingredients are purchased from lo-cal suppliers. This no only guarantees guests the chance to try authentic recipes and local specialities, but also means that seasonal dishes, both from the sea and the land, are in constant supply. Events connected with the projects include a special culinary evening known as Forgotten Flavours of Istria, which takes places at a different restaurant on the first Tuesday of each month (except January), a Saturday farmers’ market from May to September, and The Sea on the Table, where par-ticipating restaurants serve up the freshest lunches pos-sible from the morning catch of local fishermen. See the Tourist Association’s official website for more info.


IzolaIzolaMAnzIolI PAlAceOriginally built in 1470 under the direction of one of Izola’s first mayors, Tomasso Manzioli, the recently renovated pal-ace is one of the oldest buildings in the city and home to both the offices of the local Italian self-government and an incredibly charming wine bar. Frequently held art ex-hibitions are a good excuse to see the beautifully restored interior.QA-1, Manzioli Square 5, tel. +386 (0)5 616 21 31, [email protected].

PArenzAnA MuSeuMIn 1902 the Parenzana railway line was built connecting Tri-este with Poreč (or Parenzo in Italian, hence the name) 123 kilometres to the south in present-day Croatia. Although it was only in operation until 1935 it garnered quite a repu-tation for the beautiful scenery along the route, much of which serves as a footpath and cycling road today. Dedi-cated to preserving the history of the short-lived line, this tiny museum opened its doors in 2000. It also houses an impressive model train collection that is probably a must see attraction for anyone interested in such things. It’s a good idea to ask for directions and confirm its working hours at the tourist office.QI-7, Alme Vivoda 3, [email protected]. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission: €2.10/1.50 for adults/children.

ST MAuruS churchSitting atop Izola’s modest high point is the parish church of the town’s patron saint, who is also responsible for watching over the Azores, shoemakers, coppersmiths and the disabled. The present church was originally built by the Venetians in 1547, with the bell tower, which bears some resemblance to its larger predecessor in St Mark’s Square in Venice, coming some forty years later. The church last saw major renovations at the end of the 19th century and still holds regular services.QD-1, Trg Svetega Mavra.

The ugo fAMIlY PlAqueWell above ground level on a tiny side street not far from Café Alle Porte, you can find the family plate of the once powerful Ugo family, who originally installed it back in 1450. After seeing several large photographs and reading a bit about its history at the tourist office, we found it slightly underwhelming in real life, espe-cially given the fact that it clings to the wall of a newly

renovated building, but we’ll admit that when we stumbled upon it quite by mistake one morning it felt like winning some kind of sightseeing scavenger hunt.QA-2, Gasilska Ulica.

shoPPinG vInA božIčThe Božič family has been tending their vineyards in the hills surrounding Izola for well over a century, 1902 to be exact, with the current generation combining the age-old knowledge acquired from their ancestors with modern pro-duction, bottling and storage methods in order to produce some of the highest quality wine in the area. Primarily grow-ing the local Istrian grape varieties Malvasia and Refosco on some 12 hectares of lands, the family launched a new label in 2005, which has already been awarded multiple gold medals at several prestigious wine festivals. Their still very reasonably priced bottled can be purchased at their shop in

vIlA rAInerILocated next to the Hotel Delfin complex just outside the town’s modern marina, Vila Raineri makes for a good family-friendly destination after a day spent cruising out on the Adriatic, or just splashing around at the hotel’s pools or private beach. Some two dozen pizzas come in four dif-ferent sizes, so everyone should be able to find the perfect size and variety.QTomažičeva 10, tel. +386 (0)5 6607 426, www.hotel-delfin.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00. TAL

siGhtseeinG beSenghI deglI ughI PAlAceConsidered by many to be the finest building in Izola, it has sadly seen better days and from the looks of things now serves as a nightly hang out for the beer-swilling local youth. Although if you can imagine it without the grafitti and low hanging power lines it gives you some idea of the city’s past glory. By day it currently serves as Izola’s music school, which means visitors can take a look around while lessons are taking place.QGregorčičeva 76, tel. +386 (0)5 662 67 00/+386 (0)40 631 034.

church of ST MArY of hAlIAeTuMThe oldest church in Izola does its part to help make Man-ziolijev Trg one of the most aesthetically pleasing places in town. Other than the summer, it’s not often open to the public, but if you settle in for a drink at the nearby wine bar on any given Saturday afternoon you’ll likely be able to catch a wedding ceremony or two.QA-1, Manziolijev Trg.

AMPeleA

Hiring a boat to cruise around the Adriatic Sea is hands down one of the most enjoyable activities that can be undertaken on Slovenia’s petite coast - a sentiment that we’ve often heard repeated by many a Slovene as well. Not only does this afford you and your fellow sailors the luxury to go where you want when you want, but you can also avoid the crowded beaches during the sum-mertime and explore sights off the proverbial beaten path. While the harbours of Slovenia’s coastal town are full of boats for hire, one of the most unique experience you can have is on the Ampelea, which offers a passen-gers the same convenience of the rest, along with some authentic charm and history.The Ampelea is a type of sailboat called a štilac, which was commonly used as a cargo vessel in the eastern Adriatic during the second half of the 19th century. The boat itself dates back to 1930, and un-derwent more than a year of renovations after be-ing purchased from a small Croatian fishing village by the current owners in 2004. It can comfortably accommodate up to eight people on longer jour-neys, and shorter half-day, full-day and romantic evening cruises are also available. Further details, prices and more info about the boat’s history can be found on the website.Qtel. +386 (0)40 794 216, [email protected], www.ampelea.com.

A beautiful day on the Slovenian coast A beautiful day on the Slovenian coast 33.33 eur/person (maximum 12 people)

gsm: 040 794 216 (Tomi)

e-mail: [email protected]

Kino otoK

04.06 WEDNESDAy - 08.06 SUNDAyKino Otok is not only the second largest film festival in Slovenia and one of the most high-profile cultural events on the Slovenian coast, but it’s also one of our personal favourites, with screenings taking place out-doors under the stars on Mazioli Trg in the old town of Izola. In addition to its unique venue, the festival also prides itself on promoting genuine interaction between filmmakers and audiences, making the event an unforgettable experience for everyone involved. The festival’s programme, which is due to be announced on 22 May, is sure to be as international as in previous years, with the selection of films accompanied by a full schedule of Q&A sessions, industry meetings, film education panels, workshops for youth and children, art exhibitions and much more. This summer Kino Otok will also be celebrating its 10th anniversary, guaranteeing the event an even more festive atmosphere than ever before.QManziolijev Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)1 43 18 008, [email protected], www.isolacinema.org.


IzolaIzolathe city centre (located one street south of the main round-about) or on a visit to their wine cellar in Jagode just west of town.QPostojnska 7, tel. +386 (0)41 784 719, [email protected], www.vina-bozic.com.

niGhtlifeAMbASAdA gAvIolIDesigned by Italian architect Gianni Gavioli, who’s some-thing of a legend in the clubbing world, this massive 1600 square metre complex can comfortably fit over 2500 peo-ple and is one of the region’s top destinations for serious club goers. The building itself is a hodgepodge of themes, materials and styles but maintains something of a warm Mediterranean vibe throughout. Events are usually only held once or twice a month at most, but could be worth planning your trip around if you’re a big fan of electronic music.QF-3, Industrijska 10, www.ambasadagavioli.net. PALE

KAnTInAThe wine bar in the cellar of Hotel Delfin, attracts a boister-ous mix of visitors during the peak months of the summer season, it’s cool air and authentic Istrian stone walls provid-ing a much needed respite from the scorching sun. Of course there’s also a wide selection of both Slovene and international wine to choose from, and various meats, cheeses and other light snacks to ensure that it all doesn’t go to your head too quickly.QTomažičeva 10, tel. +386 (0)5 6607 426, www.hotel-delfin.si. Open only for private groups.

MobY dIcK bArIn a town that’s essentially still an old fishing village at heart, it’s fitting that the most popular night spot is named after Mel-ville’s famous whale, however there’s no guarantee that it’ll be packed on any given night - especially out of season. In addi-tion to the nautical-themed paraphernalia plastered over every square centimetre of wall and ceiling, you can find an electronic dart board awkwardly positioned near the entrance and a bil-liard table in the back.QD-3, Dantejeva 4, tel. +386 (0)51 64 65 65, [email protected], www.mobydickisola.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PJALB

wIne bAr MAnzIolIOperated by the Zaro family, who have called Izola home for around 700 years, the bar occupies the ground floor of a former palace on the old town’s most picturesque square. It’s one of our favourite spots on the entire coast for a drink, and the best place in Izola to sample quality local wines. If you’re there on a Saturday afternoon you’re also likely to catch at least one wedding ceremony at the church opposite.QA-1, Manziolijev Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)5 616 21 37, [email protected]. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun 8:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 8:00 - 01:00. JAB

ACCoMModAtiondelfInLocated right next to the marina, Deflin has been welcom-ing guests for more than 30 years. With a heated outdoor sea water pool, a smaller indoor pool and its own beach, it’s

Tomažičeva 10, 6310 Izola

124 x 90 mm one of the best options around for those wanting to spend a significant amount of their time in the water. Request a sea-facing room for some incredible sunsets over the Adri-atic and lovely views of Izola’s old town, which is only 500m away along a well-kept walking path.QC-3, Tomažičeva 10, tel. +386 (0)5 6607 400, [email protected], www.hotel-delfin.si. 219 rooms (singles €45-64, doubles €76-114). PTALBKC hhh

STArA ŠolA KorTeThis beautifully renovated old schoolhouse is a great option for those who would prefer the charms of a peaceful countryside village to the more tourist-centric coastal towns, although it definitely helps to have your own transport as Korte is actually closer to the Croatian frontier than Izola or Portorož. Brightly coloured private rooms and dormitories are reasonably priced especially

for larger groups and longer stays, and the surround-ing hills, villages and vineyards are just begging to be explored by bike, foot or horseback.QKorte 74, tel. +386 (0)5 642 11 14/+386 (0)31 375 889, [email protected], www.hostel-starasola.si/eng. 17 rooms & 2 apartments (dorms €20-24, doubles €40-48, quads €68-84, apartments €80-100). A6LW

bele SKAle TourIST AgencY Can arrange rooms and apartments around Izola, al-though be aware that the former are often in short supply and there is a strict 3 night minimum for the latter (even if you’re in town doing research for a guide book), so ad-vanced booking is must. They also offer various excursions as far afield as Venice, and boat trips lasting from 3 hours to an entire day.QE-2, Cankarjev Drevored 2, tel. +386 (0)5 640 35 55, www.beleskale.si.


PiranPiran

Piran is to the Adriatic what Bled is to the Alps and Slo-venia as a whole is to Central Europe: tiny, friendly and overwhelmingly picturesque. It's a town that is almost impossible not to fall in love with on your first visit, and if you only have time for a day trip you'll likely want to make plans to return. We also only half-jokingly added "fam-ily residence in Piran - preferably renovated" to our list of things we now look for in potential significant others, but that's only because we're superficial.Despite it's modest size Piran is awash in superlatives. It boasts what is undeniably the country's finest square, the 19th-century Tartinijev Trg named after the composer Giuseppe Tartini, and what has to be one of the most dramatically situated churches anywhere in Europe, St George Cathedral and its spectacular bell tower perched on the hill overlooking the town and the sea. In addition, its numerous restaurants not only turn out some of the best seafood we've ever eaten but also serve it in some equally unforgettable settings.Metre for metre this petite Venetian port can hold its own against anyone, including the imperial capital just over the horizon that was responsible for much of its fortune. In fact Piran does have the same kind of open-air museum feel to it as Venice, only on a much much smaller scale (and without the €6 espressos, stagnant lagoon smell, periodic flooding and constant worry of sinking into the sea).However, once you venture from the heavily trafficked wa-terfront and central square down the narrow back streets,

the crumbling façades of ancient villas, freshly-laundered clothes hanging from windows overhead and the odd overgrown garden let you know that Piran should not be mistaken for some manufactured cultural Disneyland - the charms are real and, yes, people do actually live here.

restAurAnts cASA noSTroMoA relative newcomer (only opened in 2013), Casa Nos-tromo has quickly become a popular addition to Piran’s culinary scene. Located just opposite the old town harbour, the nautical-themed restaurant specialises in simple, fresh Istrian cuisine, prepared using only local ingredients and accompanied by a well-chosen wine list. The selection of cocktails and spirits is also said to be quite ample - it is officially referred to as a ‘restaurant and lounge bar’ after all.QTomšičeva 24, tel. +386 (0)30 200 000, www.piranisin.com.

delfInBoasting a bit more authentic charm compared to some of the competition around the corner, Delfin lays claim to being the oldest fish restaurant in town and has the unique distinction of being located in a 500 year-old former municipal building. The food is quite good - es-pecially when accompanied by some cheap house wine - and the service friendly and unhurried, although our

waiter didn’t seem overly amused when we tried to or-der dolphin (‘You don’t have dolphin? But isn’t delfin Slo-vene for dolphin?’).QA-1, Kosovelova 4, tel. +386 (0)5 673 24 48, [email protected], www.delfinpiran.si. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (€6-21). PJAB

fonTAnATucked away behind a large stone cistern on the 1st of May Square, Fontana is the place to come if you’ve grown weary of seafood. Of course this being Piran fish is not absent from the menu entirely, but the fo-cus here is on Balkan cuisine which generally means plates piled high with a variety of meat that has been spiced and grilled to perfection. Combination platters for two are a great value and will let you have a taste of everything.QB-1, Gallusova 2, tel. +386 (0)5 673 12 00. Open 15:00 - 24:00, Tue Closed during winter. (€5-16). PJAB

gAlebIn the north of town just around the corner from the pathway leading up to St George Cathedral, this small family-run affair is another great option for superb home-made seafood dishes. Savo Ristič handles things in the kitchen, while his wife Mija stays out front mak-ing guests feel at home as they crowd around a half dozen cosy tables. Highly recommended for a more intimate dining experience.QA/B-1, Pusterla 5, tel. +386 (0)5 673 32 25. Open 11:00 - 16:00; 18:00-23:00. (€5-19). JAG

goSTIlnA PrI MArIThis cosy, rustic restaurant is just your typical story of a girl from Venice falling in love with a Slovene boy, moving to Piran and sometime thereafter opening a restaurant specialising in Istrian and Venetian cuisine fresh from the sea. Okay perhaps that’s not the most typical of stories, but now more than a decade on, the little restaurant near the entrance to town has built a repu-tation as one of the coast’s top dining destinations, as much for the convivial atmosphere and genuine hospitality of the hosts Mara and Tomi, as for the excellent cuisine they serve.QDante-jeva 17, tel. +386 (0)41 616 488/+386 (0)5 673 4735, www.primari-piran.com. Open 12:00-22:00, Sun 12:00-18:00. Closed in January, and 16:00-18:00 in summer. PA

Ribja restavracija Tri vdovePrešernovo nabrežje 4, 6330 Piran/Pirano

tel: + 386 5 673 02 90

tourist inforMAtion

Boasting perhaps the best address of any tourist infor-mation centre in Slovenia, TIC Piran has the privilege of calling the ground floor of the town’s gleaming white Ve-netian town hall on Tartini Square home. While the inte-rior is on a bit more humble scale than the façade would suggest, there’s a huge selection books, brochures, maps, flyers and more from seemingly every tourist-oriented venue on the coast and beyond. But don’t worry, the cheerful staff manning the counter can help you make sense of it all.QC-2, Tartinijev Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)5 673 44 40, fax +386 (0)5 673 44 41, [email protected], www.portoroz.si. Open 09:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-14:00 (Sept-June), 09:00-20:00 (July-Aug).

Piran is quite likely Slovenia’s prettiest town, photo by Matej Kastelic / Shutterstock


PiranPiranIvoThis place came highly recommended by some of our Slovene friends who know a thing or two about quality cuisine, and we can’t say that we were disappointed. It may look a little worse for wear than some of the other places you pass along the promenade, but every item on our reasonably-priced combo platter was cooked to perfection. Would we be able to tell it apart from the competition in a blind taste test? It’s highly un-likely we’ll ever have to.QA-1, Gregorčičeva 31, tel. +386 (0)5 673 22 33. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (€6-24). PJAB

lA boTTegA deI SAPorIA relative newcomer to Piran’s culinary scene, Bottega nevertheless boasts one of the finest locations of any res-taurant on the coast - occupying a sizeable swath of the town’s famed Tartini Square. With 40 years of experience, head chef Sergio Vuk sees to it that each and every dish coming from the kitchen is a worthy compliment to the venue, and the menu features traditional Istrian dishes with hints of Italian and French influence. Perhaps best of all the reasonable prices here belie the high quality, so ordering multiple courses and lingering over a bottle of prized Slovene wine is definitely recommended.QKa-juhova 12, tel. +386 (0)59 920 474, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. PJB

PAvel & PAvel 2This extremely popular family-run seafood restaurant is something of an institution on the waterfront of Pi-ran. In order to accommodate the demand from both

tourists and locals, they had to open a second loca-tion - the imaginatively named Pavel 2, lest there be any confusion - just a couple steps away. The covered outdoor dining area is close enough to the sea to catch your own dinner, although it’s probably a better idea to just enjoy the superb view and leave the angling to old Pavel. But most importantly the food actually manages to back up its oversized reputation.QA-1, Prešernovo Nabrežje, tel. +386 (0)5 674 71 02/+386 (0)5 674 71 01, [email protected]. Open 11:00 - 23:00. TJAUBK

PIrATA quieter alternative for those who would like to avoid the omnipresent crowds at the main clutch of seafood places on Prešernovo Nabrežje but still fancy a proper plate of fish with views of the water, although in this case that water is the port rather than the open sea. There are usually a couple of daily specials sans fish for around €7, but prices tend to be on par with those at its higher volume competition on the other side of town.QA-1, Župančičeva 26, tel. +386 (0)5673 14 81. Open 10:00 – 23:00. (€5.5-18). PJAB

PIzzerIA PeTIcAThe kind of place where locals drop in for a drink before heading home, kids wait impatiently for takeaway piz-zas, and cute scruffy dogs give looks that make it irre-sistible not to feed them on the sly when their owner’s not looking [editor’s note: we admit nothing], Petica is

Ribja Kantina RestaurantSavudrijska ulica 16330 Piran - Pirano

Phone: + 386 (0)41 574 509

Gost išče DelfinKosovelova ul ica 46330 Piran

Tel: 05 673 24 48Fax: 05 673 44 48E-mail: delfin.piran@g�ail.com

www.delfinpiran.si

a Piran institution, and on top of everything else they make perhaps the best pizza on the coast. The menu also includes excellent homemade pastas, various grilled meat dishes and salads, all of which are a great value. During the lunch and dinner rushes you’ll likely have a bit of wait.QŽupančičeva 6, tel. +386 80 3588. Open 11:00 - 23:00.

rIbjA KAnTInAWalking along the Piran shoreline it is hard to distinguish from which of the many restaurants the delicious aromas are wafting. What is for sure is that Ribja Kantina is con-tributing its share. A stone’s throw from the promenade and few minutes’ walk from Tartini Square, this special-ist seafood restaurant serves up beautiful fresh seafood with classic Adriatic dishes and excellent daily specials. Order a glass (or bottle) of local wine to complete the quintessential Piran experience.QB-2, Savudrijska 1, tel. +386 (0)41 574 509. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

TrI vdoveBoasting a well-deserved reputation for friendly and efficient service, Tri Vdove (or the Three Windows) is an excellent spot to stop for lunch or a sunset dinner along Piran’s main waterfront promenade. It should come as no surprise that the menu is dominated by page after page of fish and other seafood dishes, however, various steak and grilled meat dishes are also available for those who have already had their fill of sea-based creatures. The house wine has the benefit of being both high qual-ity and inexpensive, giving you an extra reason to linger after the meal and appreciate the views.QPrešernovo Nabrežje 4, tel. +386 (0)5 673 02 90/+386 (0)41 507 653. Open 10:00 - 01:00. €€.

CAféscAfé TeATerHoused in the golden yellow theatre building between Hotel Piran and the pier, Teater’s always busy terrace spills over onto the promenade where you can lounge atop comfy pillows and observe the comings and goings of the port. The café pulls double duty as the town’s premier nightspot, which would come highly recommended even if it had some competition. If that weren’t enough they also rent scooters and some fabulous apartments across the harbour.QB-2, Stjenkova 1, tel. +386 (0)41 63 89 33, www.piranjein.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00. PJAB

TArTInI cAféIn a town were the famous composer unwittingly lends his name to just about everything, we’re not exactly sure how this became the Tartini café but we assume it wasn’t an easy feat. In any event, housed in a beautiful building that was once the old town Loggia in the north corner of Tartini Square, it’s definitely worthy of the name - although it’s pastel furniture and futuristic egg shell chairs do seem a bit out of place.QTartinijev Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)5 673 33 81. Open 07:00 - 24:00. PJAB


PiranPiran

We can be found in the magni�cent scenic forti�ed town of Piran, a town with a rich cultural heritage. Family restaurants PAVEL and PAVEL 2 are located side by side on the beautiful coast of Piran. We o�er you international

cuisine with an emphasis on seafood specialties.

Welcome.

RESTAURANT - PAVEL & PAVEL 2

phone: +386 (0)5 674 71 01 email: [email protected]

Piran

siGhtseeinGNot much of an effort needs to be made to go sightseeing in Piran, in fact quite the opposite is true: it would take a Herculean feat to avoid seeing the town’s wealth of sights. In addition to a lengthy must-see list of churches, squares and palaces, there are countless less-heralded sights to be en-joyed. Piran’s cobbled backstreets and alleyways are literally lined with statues, arches, coats of arms, intricately carved doors and stately old villas just waiting to imprint themselves in visitors’ memories. The region’s long seafaring tradition is also well-represented at two nautical themed museums, and a number of art galleries - both public and private - hold regular exhibitions. Piran is easily covered on foot, although a hike up to the cathedral and further on to the remaining sec-tion of the old town wall is enough to leave us in need of a cold beer and a siesta, especially during the summer. Also be aware that many of the museums and galleries keep shorter hours in the winter, some even open by appointment only, so if you visit during the low season it’s always a good idea to drop by the helpful tourist office for all the latest information.

1ST of MAY SquAre (PrvoMAjSKI Trg)The administrative centre of Piran until the 13th century, these days it stands in stark contrast to the glistening Tartinijev Trg only a couple hundred metres away: scruffy and an unkempt with the odd clump of grass poking up between stones and more than one façade unintentionally revealing brick walls beneath crumbling layers of paint, in other words, perfect. In addition to several restaurants, art galleries and a great little wine bar, a large stone cistern elevates nearly half the square a metre off the ground and serves as a stage for various music, dance and theatre performances during the summer. Flank-ing the stairs leading up to the now dormant wells are two al-legorical statues representing Law and Justice, both of which are obligingly photogenic.QB-1.

TArTInI SquAre (TArTInIjev Trg)Already arguably the most impressive squares in Slovenia, all debate was put to rest last year when it was transformed into a pedestrian only zone with outdoor cafés taking the place of parked cars - a fact that has yet to be reflected on most internet sites, including Google Maps. Fronted by two large neo-Renaissance buildings on one side and a mélange of smaller buildings of varying architectural styles on the other,

the square itself is younger than almost all of them, having been part of Piran’s harbour until it was filled in in 1884. The square’s inner oval was given its distinctive shape when it served as the terminus for an electric railway that connected Piran to Portorož and Lucija until 1953, while its white marble surface was something of a posthumous gift to the late Tartini in 1992 on what would have been his 300th birthday.QC-2.

Town hAllThe modern town hall dominates the northern end of Tartini-jev Trg and is the administrative centre of the Municipality of Piran, which includes the nearby towns of Portorož, Strunjan and Lucija. It was originally built by the Venetians shortly after their arrival at the end of the 13th century, but was torn down in 1877 and rebuilt in a more contemporary style. Several stat-ues and coats of arms that adorned the original building are on display in the atrium.QC-2, Tartinijev Trg 2.

ST george cAThedrAlWatching over the town and visible from nearly every open space is the massive cathedral dedicated to Piran’s patron saint, the dragon slaying young knight from Capadoccia, George. Legend has it that towards the end of the 16th cen-tury the cathedral fell into a state of disrepair, which was so troubling that the Saint George himself made an appearance in order to motivate the citizenry to undertake the necessary renovations, and even blinded a sceptical mayor to show he meant business. True or not, the cathedral saw some major

renovations shortly thereafter, including the addition of a nearly 50m bell tower, which is a scale copy of the San Marco Campanile in Venice. Throw in some stunning views of both the city and the sea and you have the makings for one of the most impressive churches in Slovenia.QC-1, Adamičeva 6.

TArTInI houSeOriginally going by the name ‘Casa Pizagrua’ this somewhat modest palace next to St Peter’s Church on the eastern side Tartinijev Trg was the birthplace of the composer - and name-sake of roughly half of Piran - Giuseppe Tartini. It underwent extensive renovations in the late 1980s and is now home to the main offices of the Italian Community in Piran. There is also a small museum on the first floor displaying, among other things, one of the master’s violins, his death mask and various letters, manuscripts and scores.QC-2, Tartinijev Trg 7.

ACCoMModAtionMAxUp the hill from Tartini Square, this small boutique hotel is housed in a beautiful 300 year old house and is one of our favourite places to stay on the coast, although if you’re a light sleeper the over-active bells at the cathedral next door may prove bothersome. Max, the owner and apparently sole em-ployee, is a friendly old bulldog and ardent Liverpool support-er who’ll be glad to carry your luggage up the narrow stairs or talk your ear off over coffee, but we’ve also heard rumours that he can have a bit of bark if you interrupt his afternoon siesta.QC-2, Korpusa 26, tel. +386 (0)5 673 34 76/+386 (0)41 69 29 28, [email protected], www.maxpiran.com. 6 rooms (doubles €60-70). PJA hhh

TArTInIWith apologies to several other worthy contenders, Tartini Square is without any question the finest urban space in all of Slovenia and for our money the views overlooking it from this adjacent hotel of the same name are the best in town - all the better that they come without the €10 premium charged for rooms with a sea view. Inside, the well-appointed rooms are warm and spacious, and the hotel’s lone suite and its private terrace are a great value if there is someone you’d like to im-press.QC-2, Tartinijev Trg 15, tel. +386 (0)5 671 10 00, [email protected], www.hotel-tartini-piran.com. 45 rooms and 1 suite (singles €62-88, doubles €84-118, triples €114-162, suite €140-192). hhh

vIlA MIA chAnelThese family run rental apartments are the perfect place to unwind and relax. Behind the postcard cute façade lies six spacious and luxuriously decked out apartments that come complete with equipped modern kitchenettes and all have views of the beautiful Piran coast, which is only 20m from the front door, while the private terrace is the perfect place to enjoy the sunset. Vila Mia Chanel also has private parking spaces at no extra cost (an absolute rarity in Piran) so even your car gets a great sea view.QB-5, Dantejeva 31, tel. +386 (0)41 711 888/+386 (0)51 694 100, [email protected], www.piranisin.com. From €120 per night.

brodArstvo GorjAn

This family-run maritime company has been in the passenger transport business for three decades, nowadays catering primarily to foreign and Slo-vene tourists with sightseeing trips along the Slo-vene coast. In addition to regular return services between Portorož to Izola in the summertime, they also offer dining excursions with several different seafood meal options for 30 or more guests, with the larger of their two vessels accommodating up 147 people. More detailed info can be found on their website.QRegenta 13, tel. +386 (0)5 6730 780/+386 (0)41 664 132, [email protected], www.brodarstvo-gorjan.si.


PortorožPortorož

With only 47km of Adriatic coast Slovenes have to make the most of every centimetre. The result is a coastline dotted with half a dozen or so notable towns, each with its own unique character, strengths and weaknesses. The poetically named Portorož, or Port of Roses, is home to one of the largest modern marinas on the Adriatic and is the undisputed king of Slovenia’s coastal tourism trade. Although it lacks the Venetian old towns that can be found else where along the coast, its numerous hotels, restaurants, conference centres, spas and casinos make it a popular destina-tion for both foreigners and Slovenes, and an excellent base for day trips and excursions farther afield.Portorož has been a tourist destination as far back as the 13th century, when it developed a niche as a health re-sort, and towards the end of the 19th century it became widely known for the healing properties of its mud and salt water baths. This reputation has persisted till today, with the city currently home to no less than six different wellness spas and resorts. Aside from spas, Portorož al-soplays host to various national and international confer-ences, exhibitions and trade fairs, which enables the city to maintain a bustling vibrant air throughout the entire year. One of its largest annual events is Internautica, an international boat show held every May, which attracts over 400 exhibitors and 40,000 visitors - it’s a sight to see even if you’re not in the market for a new luxury yacht.

restAurAnts PAdelASet near the Portorož Marina at the far end of the main seaside promenade, Padela is one of the few places in town that is both patronised and recommended by lo-cals. The interior is modernly renovated, but in the classic Istrian style, with wooden ceilings and limestone walls, while there’s also a large outdoor terrace. Highlights of the menu include classic Istrian dishes like homemade pasta with truffles, seafood from the Adriatic and local Karst prosciutto, with much more reasonable prices than the majority of the more centrally located establishments.QObala 99, tel. +386 (0)5 902 36 59, [email protected]. Open 10:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 10:00-01:00

fleur de SelNamed for the crème de la crème of sea salts, for which Portorož has long been known, this fine restaurant within the Kempinski Palace combines modern fusion cuisine, a friendly laid-back atmosphere and exceptional views of the sea from its position on the first floor. The perfect place for a relaxed lunch during a long conference day or a morning spent at the pool.QD-2, Kempinski Palace, Oba-la 45, tel. +386 (0)5 692 7000, [email protected], www.kempinski.com/portoroz. Open 11:00 - 23:00. PJAL

STArA oljKAHarkening back to simpler more relaxed time when locals used to while away hot summer days chatting under the cool shade of an olive tree, Stara Oljka, or the Old Olive Tree in English, offers traditional Istrian cuisine in a pleasant atmosphere right along the water-front in the centre of Portorož. Fittingly, several vener-able old olive trees still provide shade for diners on the large sea-facing terrace in the back. In addition to the wide selection of fish and seafood dishes, there are am-ple meat and vegetarian options on the menu, and the knowledgable staff can help recommend the perfect wine to compliment it.QE-3, Obala 20, tel. +386 (0)5 674 85 55, www.staraoljka.si. Open 10:00 - 24:00. PTA6IGBXSW

CAfés cAcAoA modern, stylish café that’s as well-known for its home-made ice cream and cakes as it is for its coffee. The interior is done up in the minimalist nouveau Euro-style seems to be as popular in Slovenia as it is elsewhere on the continent, while the staff are generally attentive and fast. The place also functions as a bar once the clock hits a reasonable hour for drinking - what time this is exactly is not for us to say, but we can highly recommend the cocktails.QD-2, Obala 14, tel. +386 (0)5 674 10 35, www.cacao.si, Open 08:00 - 03:00. PTAR6UGBX

niGhtlifeKAnelA bArA fabulous rock ‘n’ roll hangout during the summer time, day and night. The bar is actually so small you can barely fit more than 10 people inside at any given moment, but most prefer the pleasure of the beach di-rectly in front of the amongst the tall palm trees where the music is still heard loud and clear. Live rock con-certs are frequent and the atmosphere surely heats up in the late hours with plenty of singing and dancing: a beach party in the making! We’ve personally spent many a late night (and early morning) here. QD-2, Obala 14, tel. +386 (0)5 674 61 81, www.kanelabar.com. Open 09:00 - 03:00. 6UEGBX

PAPrIKAWith an unbeatable location in the middle of Portorož Bay, Paprika’s position allows guests to enjoy the most beautiful views of the Istrian coast-line, while they enjoy exceptional service, top qual-ity drinks, cocktails, snacks and some of the best ice cream around. Of course many people come here for the views inside, as this café by day turns into one of the most popular nightlight venues on the coast after the sun goes down.QD-3, Obala 20a, tel. +386 (0)40 366 299, [email protected], www.paprika.si. Open 08:00 - 03:00. Admission free. PAULEGBXW

portorož - ljubljana - prague

In Portorož the fun really begins after the sun goes down, photo by Urosr / Shutterstock


PortorožPortorož

siGhtseeinGAvdITorIj PorTorož culTurAl cenTerThe auditorium’s logo doesn’t seem to have been updated since the disco era and it seems it’s conference centre may not have had any major changes since then either, nonetheless it still plays host to a number of conferences and major concerts throughout the year. Check their schedule to see whether they’ve got something to your interest.QE-2, Senčna Pot 10, tel. +386 (0)5 676 67 00, [email protected], www.avditorij.si.

forMA vIvAEstablished in the early 1960s by two Slovene artists, this sculpture park now serves as home to a large park full of mostly abstract pieces by an international mix of artists. Head inside and along the beautiful grassy area for a meditative walk, or perch yourself on one of the many benches and watch the boats sail by. A very unique treat!QC/D-5, Seča, tel. +386 (0)5 671 20 80, [email protected], www.obalne-galerije.si. Open whole day. No admission fee.

holY church of our lAdY of The roSArY Travellers who have grown accustomed to and bored with elaborate old European churches, might enjoy this interest-ing little break from the ancient and rarefied. Constructed in the 1980s, with wooden surroundings and small stained glass, this interesting piece of architecture seems to evoke a happy hippy feeling of Catholicism, with a not-so-pained Jesus leaning down from the cross to speak to a group of friends.The outside lobby offers free postcards and reading material.QD-3, Cvetna Pot 4, tel. +386 (0)5674 67 00.

MArInA PorTorožLocated less than a kilometre from the centre of town, the vast modern marina in Portorož is the gateway to the Medi-terranean not only for Slovenia but all of Central Europe. With over one thousand berths accommodating boats up to 22 metres in length, it is one of the largest marinas in the entire Adriatic. Aside from the standard dockside facilities the marina essentially contains a miniature resort with guest

rooms, restaurants and cafés, as well as sports facilities in-cluding tennis courts, swimming pools, a fitness centre and even a driving range. In May the marina plays host to Internautica, a large international boat show which attracts over 40,000 visitors each year.QE-4/5, Cesta solinarjev 8, tel. +386 (0)5 6761 100, fax +386 (0)5 6761 210, [email protected], www.marinap.si.

Sečovlje SAlInA nATure PArKHundreds of years ago, salt was a commodity almost as valuable as gold and rulers fought to acquire and control its means of collection. Sečovlje was one such rarified area and today it is preserved as a park with a visitors’ centre and museum. A fascinating piece of history, the salt pans are not only an interesting public park, they are also a well-preserved natural habitat for birds. The trek out to the pans is an interesting one but make sure to pack your insect repellant, not all of the inhabitants here are friendly.Qtel. +386 (0)5 672 13 30, [email protected], www.kpss.si. Open 08:00 - 17:00. Admission: €5 adults; €3 students, seniors; €10 families; free for children under age six.

ACCoMModAtionhoSTel euroPA PorTorožThe Slovene coast’s newest hostel provides a much need-ed option for budget travellers visiting glitzy Portorož. And it’s not just the prices that are great, the hostel is located in the centre of town 50m from one of Portorož’s most popu-lar beaches. Its nine themed rooms are clean and comfort-able, and the dorms with en suites are particularly good as they have two toilets. Dorms can also be converted into family rooms and even pets are welcome (with advanced notice). Although there is no kitchen guests won’t go hun-gry as the hostel serves an excellent breakfast and in the afternoon their bar offers reasonably priced local wine and delicious bar snacks.QE-2, Senčna Pot 2, tel. +386 (0)5 90 325 74, [email protected], ehp.si. 9 rooms with 49 beds (dorms from €22 with breakfast, €24 in July/Aug €24). PiJBKW

grAnd hoTel MeTroPolHigh up on a hill overlooking the beach area, Metropol is one of the major sprawling hotel complexes along the seaside strip. The complex also features a popular ca-sino, an adult nightclub, and full (though slightly dated ) spa facilities. The hotel has the distinction of having a direct bridge to the beach from a passageway through the lobby, and from there you can also access their private swimming pool and lounge area on the beach front.QE-3, Obala 77, tel. +386 (0)5 690 10 00, fax +386 (0)5 690 19 00, [email protected], www.metropolgroup.si. 103 rooms (singles €185, doubles €250-270, suites €420-550). POTHARF�GKDCW hhhhh

KeMPInSKI PAlAce PorTorožThis iconic hotel has taken centre stage in Portorož since it first opened in 1910 during the waning years of the Habsburg Empire. Combining Viennese elegance, modern design and of course the famous Kempinski flair for style and service, the hotel is quite simply one of the grandest places to stay in all of Slovenia. If price is no object, book one of the two Laguna suites, which include a rooftop terrace with a private Jacuzzi and breathtaking views of the Adriatic Sea.QD-2, Obala 45, tel. +386 (0)5 692 70 00/+386 (0)5 692 79 50, [email protected], www.kempinski.com/portoroz. 164 rooms and 17 suites (singles from €135, doubles from €155, suites from €450). PTJHAUILEB�KXCW hhhhh

bArKA reGinAThere’s no better way to see Portorož, Piran or the rest of the breathtaking Slovenian coast than from the sea! If you’re not one of the lucky few who have their own boats, no need to worry, the Barka Regina tourist boat offers various type of trips at reasonable prices. Pan-oramic sightseeing trips lasting up to three hours cost only €15 per person, while other organised itineraries cruise for almost twice as long and also include full sea-food feasts with drinks. The so-called Queen of Portorož can also be chartered for extended fishing trips, birth-day parties, romantic dinners and more. Amenities on the classic wooden boat include a bar, full kitchen, an entertainment system and even wireless internet.Qtel. +386 (0)31 518 338/+386 (0)31 662 438, [email protected], www.barka-regina.si.

internAutiCA

07.05 WEDNESDAy - 11.05 SUNDAyThe Internautica International Boat Show is the Adriatic’s most significant marine lifestyle event with a long tradi-tion dating back almost two decades. Held every year in Marina Portorož, it has a strong influence on purchasing and strategic decision-making in the nautical industry market. Internautica features the largest display of boats in the region, and each year there are more than 250 spe-cialized exhibitors participating and well over 30,000 visi-tors from Slovenia and neighbouring countries.The Show strives to offer boating enthusiasts the most complete picture of the marine market, whilst at the same time providing an entertainment package that will keep both enthusiasts and those simply looking for a good day out engaged and having fun for their entire visit. Internautica is committed to providing all exhibitors with the best possible environment in which to show their goods and services.QMarina Portorož, Solinarjev 8, tel. +386 (0)1 56 55 126, www.internautica.net.

Discover its exquisite cuisine based on istrian culinary tradirion with in�uencesof the mediterraniean yet.

Explore the fabulous taste of Adriatic sea food, special meat, istrian tru�es and home-made pasta which is prepared.

+386 (05) 902 36 59 / [email protected] 99, Portorož

ROYAL ADVENTURES ON THE SLOVENIAN SEA Fish picnics - Panoramic - Fishing - Private groups - Celebrations - Romantic dinners

+386 31 662 348, [email protected], www.barka-regina.si

PAdelA


The KarstThe Karst

Geographically speaking the Karst Plateau, or simply the Karst (Kras in Slovene), occupies the large area of limestone highlands stretching from the southern edges of the Vipava Valley in the north to the northern parts of Croatia’s Istrian peninsula in the south, which is not to be confused with the still relatively new Green Karst (Zeleni Kras) regional tourism brand, or the more general Karst topographical features that can be found in pockets across all of Slovenia. The region actually gave its name to the distinctive topography where lay-ers of dissolved bedrock separate, often creating net-works of caves and subterranean rivers, which has led to it often being referred to as the Classical Karst (just to make things more complicated).Regardless of semantics, the region is a fascinating place with many notable destinations that can be visited on easy day trips from Slovenia’s coastal towns. Perhaps most noteworthy are the UNESCO protected Škocjan Caves lo-cated just outside the town of Divača, while the small vil-lage of Lipica near Sežana is known throughout the world for its white Lipizzaner horses. Further to the north the hilltop town of Štanjel is about as postcard worthy as they come, with its winding cobble streets offering sweeping vistas of the valley below. Of course the region as a whole is perhaps best known for its gastronomic contributions such as the dry-cured Karst prosciutto (kraški pršut) and the dark red Terrano or Teran wine, which is also fashioned into a sweet liquor that is unfailingly offered at the end of every meal in the region.

restAurAntsgoSTIlnA SKoKAn excursion into the Karst countryside is a must during any extended stay at the Slovenian Coast, and the charming family-run Skok guesthouse in the hills above Sežana makes an excellent destination. The menu here focuses exclusively on local seasonal dishes, with house specialties including jota stew with sausage, homemade gnocchi, hand-cut prosciutto, venison steaks and other dishes. In 2011, Skok was one of the founding members of the Gostilna Slovenija brand, which has strict criteria for guaranteeing the authenticity Slovene cui-sine and wine at establishments proudly displaying its trade-mark bell. If the the village setting takes your fancy, there are seven spacious modern guest rooms available for overnight stays.QŠtorje 27, Sežana, tel. +386 (0) 768 54 09/+386 (0)41 725 504, [email protected], www.gostilna-skok.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. PTALB

MAjerIjAThis villa outside the village of Slap is one of the premier gas-tronomic destinations of the region, and, budget permitting, a perfect place to end a day of wine tasting in Vipava. A head chef who moonlights as a professor at a culinary school in Trieste endows the place with a certain pedigree and also guarantees a steady stream of Italian visitors at the weekends. All the ingredients are freshly sourced from local producers (or the herb garden out back), and the oft-changing menu is seasonal, focussing on light Mediterranean cuisine during the

warmer months and hearty central European dishes in the fall and winter. Highly recommended.QSlap 18, Vipava, tel. +386 (0)5 368 5010/+386 (0)41 405 903, [email protected], www.majerija.si. Multi-course meal with wine from €40-70 per person.

MorSKI KonjIčeKFound near the town of Pivka just off the main Postojna-Pivka-Ilirska Bistrica road (some 15 minutes south of the A1 motor-way), this sprawling countryside restaurant is a popular stop for Slovenes and tourists after a day at the coast. Given that its name translates ‘seahorse’ in English, it’s not surprising that fish and other seafood specialities are the main focus of the menu here, but for those who have already had their fill of such fare, there are plenty of other dishes and some fine pizzas. For fami-lies there’s a children’s playground for a before or after dinner romp, and for those who’d like to stay for a drink or five the place is open till the wee hours at the weekends.QMala Pris-tava 10, Pivka, tel. +386 (0)5 753 20 55/+386, (0)41 523 325, [email protected]. Open 11:00-24:00, Fri 11:00-04:00, Sat 09:00-04:00, Sun 09:00-24:00. Closed Mon ex-cept for holidays.

rujSet in an unassuming stone house just steps from the Italian border, Ruj is perennially on the shortlist of Slovenia’s best restaurants and fittingly named after the Slovene word for Sumac - a small nondescript shrub that produces a brightly coloured fruit, which is ground into a tangy crimson spice. Despite the modest surroundings, a typical meal at Ruj fea-tures course after course of exquisitely prepared dishes, using only the freshest of local ingredients, each plate accompa-nied by the perfectly matched Slovene wine, and optionally followed by a post-meal cigar on the terrace. For lovers of good food, it is truly an experience not to be missed. Reserva-tions highly recommended.QDol pri Vogljah 16, Dutovlje, tel. +386 (0)5 734 17 20, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. €€€.

siGhtseeinGŠTAnjelThis hilltop village, known as the Jewel of the Karst, is one of Slovenia’s most spectacular towns. Steeped in history, the town was built by the Romans, while Ottoman raids in the 16th century prompted the ruling Counts of Cobenzl to add extensive fortifications. Despite sustaining considerable dam-age during the Second World War, this charming medieval

town has since been restored to its former glory. Entering the town through the stone archway is like stepping back in time, gravel streets wind past traditional Karst houses leading onto cute little squares with ancient stone wells. To get a proper view into traditional life in Štanjel, head to the Karst House (Kraška Hiša), which has been converted into a fascinating little ethnographic museum. The parish church and remains of the 16th-century castle are the most prominent landmarks in town, with parts of the later having been converted into an exhibition space that houses an excellent collection of Tri-este-born Slovenian artist Lojze Spacal, famous for his graphic representations of the Karst and coastal regions. The castle’s pleasant courtyard is an ideal place to soak up Štanjel’s time-less atmosphere, preferably with a glass of local wine and a plate of famous Karst pruscuitto. Beneath the village the picturesque Ferrari Garden (Ferrarijev Vrt) doesn’t feature any Italian luxury cars, but the well-kept pathways, restored stone walls and mancured flora have nevertheless been declared a national monument. The garden’s highlight is small stone pool and its stunning views over the Branica Valley.

dIvAčAThis little town in the southwest of the country has long been a crossroads town and transport hub with this role only strengthening with the development of the railway - today it enjoys good connections with Ljubljana, the coast including Croatia and to the north towards Nova Gorica and Jesenice. If you do find yourself with a couple of hours to burn while waiting for a train, the 17th-century Škrateljnova house is one

Gostilna in pizzerija Morski Konjiček Mala Pristava 10, 6257 Pivka

tel: +386 5 753 20 55gsm: +386 41 523 325email: [email protected]

The hilltop town of Štanjel is known as the Jewel of the Karst, photo courtesy of TIC ŠtanjelThe karst invigorate and creations

Gostilna SKOK / Štorje 27, Sežana / +386 (05) 768 54 09www.gostilna-skok.com


The KarstThe Karst

Lipica Stud Farm has flourished tremendously since its con-ception over 400 years ago. Set amongst beautiful natural surroundings,it is not only home to more than 350 Lipizzaner horses, but also very rich in his-tory. Since its foundation by the Habsburg Archduke Charles II in 1580, Lipica has become one of

the most prominent attractions Slovenia has to offer.One of the many reasons this stud farm stands so proud-ly today is the origin of the Lipizzaner. These capable and distinguished horses have taken a major part in the development of this amazing establishment since the very beginning, and are reputed for having an eager-ness to learn. Best of all they have been particularly well-trained in the art of riding, which has enabled a large assortment of activities and events to occur frequently, making now more than a fine time to pay a visit.To put it simply, Lipikum museum excels in portraying the amazing Lipizzaner through modern presentations, with both interactive displays and classical exhibits. It will leave you knowing more than you could hope to, and all through a pleasant and amusing experience for both adults and children. The Stud Farm also offers a nice and informative tour (available in English, Italian, German, Croatian, French and Slovene), where friendly guides will see that you are well informed about Lipica’s most beloved beast, and extensive history how of how it came to be.For centuries Lipizzaners have incorporated carriage drawing into their area of expertise. Now, you can take a carriage ride through Lipica’s colourful and peaceful at-mosphere of groomed grounds, with your own friendly carriage driver.To get a little more active, Lipica Stud Farm hosts a vari-

ety of invigorating horse riding programmes, as well as lessons for more advanced riders. If you ever imagined yourself as a brave knight of old then you just might want to seize the days and give it a try! On a side-note, they also offer pony riding lessons for kids between three and seven years old, where, for a very reasonable price, the little one will learn the basics of riding horses, and more importantly, how to treat them.At the end of a tiring and eventful day, retreat to the comfort of your accommodation, where you can enjoy various delicacies of the Karst, and relay in the peace of the secluded location, resting up for the next day’s learning, riding, show or indeed onward journey. By vir-tue of the ample facilities in the main centre, Lipica in as excellent destination either for all manner of confer-ences, or to get married.And last but not least, it would be folly not to mention the classical riding school! The pride of the Lipica Stud Farm the cream of the crop stallions training their el-egant trots, turns and other skills. The training sessions are open to spectators and of course there is a busy pro-gramme of equestrian events and shows to be consid-ered when planning your visit, including the following: Day of the Lipizzaner (18 May), FEI International Dressage Competition (23-25 May), FEI International Driving Com-petition (27-29 June) and Days of the Lipica Stud Farm (12-14 September).Event or not, anyone with even a passing interest in the long faced beauties should not leave Slovenia without paying Lipica a visit!QLipica 5, Sežana, tel. +386 (0)5 739 1580, fax +386 (0)5 739 1730, [email protected], www.lipica.org.

liPiCA stud fArMLIPICA STUD FARM

April - May 2014 53 facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

What to see

Lipica Stud Farm has flour-ished tremendously since its conception over 400 years ago. Set amongst beautiful natural surroundings,it is not only home to more than 350 Lipizzaner horses, but also very rich in history. Since its foundation by the Habsburg Archduke Charles II in 1580,

Lipica has become one of the most prominent attrac-tions Slovenia has to offer.One of the many reasons this stud farm stands so proud-ly today is the origin of the Lipizzaner. These capable and distinguished horses have taken a major part in the de-velopment of this amazing establishment since the very beginning, and are reputed for having an eagerness to learn. Best of all they have been particularly well-trained in the art of riding, which has enabled a large assortment of activities and events to occur frequently, making now more than a fine time to pay a visit.To put it simply, Lipikum museum excels in portraying the amazing Lipizzaner through modern presentations, with both interactive displays and classical exhibits. It will leave you knowing more than you could hope to, and all through a pleasant and amusing experience for both adults and children. The Stud Farm also offers a nice and informative tour (available in English, Italian, German, Croatian, French and Slovene), where friendly guides will see that you are well informed about Lipica’s most beloved beast, and extensive history how of how it came to be.For centuries Lipizzaners have incorporated carriage drawing into their area of expertise. Now, you can take a carriage ride through Lipica’s colourful and peaceful at-mosphere of groomed grounds, with your own friendly carriage driver.

To get a little more active, Lipica Stud Farm hosts a vari-ety of invigorating horse riding programmes, as well as lessons for more advanced riders. If you ever imagined yourself as a brave knight of old then you just might want to seize the days and give it a try! On a side-note, they also offer pony riding lessons for kids between three and seven years old, where, for a very reasonable price, the little one will learn the basics of riding horses, and more importantly, how to treat them.At the end of a tiring and eventful day, retreat to the comfort of your accommodation, where you can enjoy various delicacies of the Karst, and relay in the peace of the secluded location, resting up for the next day’s learning, riding, show or indeed onward journey. By vir-tue of the ample facilities in the main centre, Lipica in as excellent destination either for all manner of confer-ences, or to get married.And last but not least, it would be folly not to mention the classical riding school! The pride of the Lipica Stud Farm the cream of the crop stallions training their el-egant trots, turns and other skills. The training sessions are open to spectators and of course there is a busy pro-gramme of equestrian events and shows to be consid-ered when planning your visit, including the following: Day of the Lipizzaner (18 May), FEI International Dres-sage Competition (23-25 May), FEI International Driving Competition (27-29 June) and Days of the Lipica Stud Farm (12-14 September).Event or not, anyone with even a passing interest in the long faced beauties should not leave Slovenia without paying Lipica a visit!QLipica 5, Sežana, tel. +386 (0)5 739 1580, fax +386 (0)5 739 1730, [email protected], www.lipica.org.

LIPICA STUD FARM


What to see

Lipica Stud Farm has flour-ished tremendously since its conception over 400 years ago. Set amongst beautiful natural surroundings,it is not only home to more than 350 Lipizzaner horses, but also very rich in history. Since its foundation by the Habsburg Archduke Charles II in 1580,

Lipica has become one of the most prominent attrac-tions Slovenia has to offer.One of the many reasons this stud farm stands so proud-ly today is the origin of the Lipizzaner. These capable and distinguished horses have taken a major part in the de-velopment of this amazing establishment since the very beginning, and are reputed for having an eagerness to learn. Best of all they have been particularly well-trained in the art of riding, which has enabled a large assortment of activities and events to occur frequently, making now more than a fine time to pay a visit.To put it simply, Lipikum museum excels in portraying the amazing Lipizzaner through modern presentations, with both interactive displays and classical exhibits. It will leave you knowing more than you could hope to, and all through a pleasant and amusing experience for both adults and children. The Stud Farm also offers a nice and informative tour (available in English, Italian, German, Croatian, French and Slovene), where friendly guides will see that you are well informed about Lipica’s most beloved beast, and extensive history how of how it came to be.For centuries Lipizzaners have incorporated carriage drawing into their area of expertise. Now, you can take a carriage ride through Lipica’s colourful and peaceful at-mosphere of groomed grounds, with your own friendly carriage driver.

To get a little more active, Lipica Stud Farm hosts a vari-ety of invigorating horse riding programmes, as well as lessons for more advanced riders. If you ever imagined yourself as a brave knight of old then you just might want to seize the days and give it a try! On a side-note, they also offer pony riding lessons for kids between three and seven years old, where, for a very reasonable price, the little one will learn the basics of riding horses, and more importantly, how to treat them.At the end of a tiring and eventful day, retreat to the comfort of your accommodation, where you can enjoy various delicacies of the Karst, and relay in the peace of the secluded location, resting up for the next day’s learning, riding, show or indeed onward journey. By vir-tue of the ample facilities in the main centre, Lipica in as excellent destination either for all manner of confer-ences, or to get married.And last but not least, it would be folly not to mention the classical riding school! The pride of the Lipica Stud Farm the cream of the crop stallions training their el-egant trots, turns and other skills. The training sessions are open to spectators and of course there is a busy pro-gramme of equestrian events and shows to be consid-ered when planning your visit, including the following: Day of the Lipizzaner (18 May), FEI International Dres-sage Competition (23-25 May), FEI International Driving Competition (27-29 June) and Days of the Lipica Stud Farm (12-14 September).Event or not, anyone with even a passing interest in the long faced beauties should not leave Slovenia without paying Lipica a visit!QLipica 5, Sežana, tel. +386 (0)5 739 1580, fax +386 (0)5 739 1730, [email protected], www.lipica.org.

of the best preserved examples of traditional Karst architec-ture is worth a look at as is the Slovenian Film Museum which it now houses. Despite not being the most interesting town itself, Divača is a good base for exploring the surroundings countryside where there are some amazing sights - not least the nearby UNESCO World Heritage listed Škocjan Caves.

SežAnAThe old road between Trieste and Ljubljana may take twice as long as the highway though its meandering route, dot-ted with little towns, historic sights and natural wonders, is well worth exploring. One of the interesting towns on the road is Sežana, located basically on the Slovene-Italian border it has long been a transport hub and regional cen-tre for the lower Karst area. It’s also home to the huge Vina Kras winery and wine cellar, while the surrounding coun-tryside is dotted with famed ‘osmice’ - farmhouses that traditionally open their doors for lunch and diner eight days per year. Apart from being a destination for the food obsessed, gambling obsessives flock to the town’s casino and there are also plenty of interesting cultural and natu-ral sights in and around town. Highlights in the town in-clude the botanical gardens which were once the private gardens of the noble Scaramanga family who developed the park in the 19th century and with hundreds of spe-cies from around the world the park was known as one of the finest in the Austro-Hungarian Empire and is still well worth a visit. Short drives from town are the impressive Vilenica caves and the famous stables of Lipica.

ŠKoCjAn CAves

Quite simply put, Slovenia’s Škocjan Caves are one of the most astounding natural attractions on the planet, but you don’t have to take our word for it, as there is a significant amount of official documentation to support this assertion. One of only three locations in Slovenia to be recognised as a world heritage site by UNESCO (with the other two being the mercury mine of Idrija and the Prehistoric Pile-Dwellings of Ljubljansko Barje), Škocjan is the only one to be on the natural monument list, with this distinction also notably given to only three other caves in the entire world.Since 1996, the territory above and around the caves has been a protected regional park, and was also recognised as the first underground wetland in 1999 under the Ramsar Convention. However, at the end of the day it’s the magnifi-cent Karst cave system itself that is responsible for attract-ing an estimated 100,000 visitors per year, the vast majority of whom (ourselves included) cannot believe their eyes.First written about during the 2nd century BC, the caves had actually been discovered long before this, with ar-cheological evidence proving that they had been used as far back as the 12th century BC. Of the many artefacts found within the caves, the majority are weapons (eg spearheads, axes, swords) and fragments of vessels and other domestic items used by people during Bronze Age.Created by the Reka River, which flows for some 55km above ground before carving its way into the soft lime-stone that makes up the Karst region, one of the two possible tours of the caves follows the natural entrance made by the river near the village of Škocjan. This tour can be done both with or without a guide, and takes in the sections of the caves where many of the most important archeological finds were made.However, the more popular tour begins at the other end of the caves, through a man-made entrance, and passes by the main sights, including the so-called Silent Cave (Tiha Jama) and exits by way of the underground Reka River canyon, traversing the dizzying 50m-high Cerkvenik Bridge. Only guided tours are possible along this route. A third option is the above-ground educational trail, which circumscribes the landscape of the park, with special em-phasis given to the flora and fauna, as well as the rich cul-tural heritage of the area.Located just outside the town of Divača in the southwest of Slovenia, Škocjan is easily reached by both car (via the A1 motorway) and train, with up to 16 of the latter travelling between Ljubljana and Divača each day, from where it’s a 3km hike along a well-marked path to the visitor informa-tion centre in Škocjan. Alternatively, several trains are met by free shuttle buses.QŠkocjan 2, Divača, tel. +386 (0)5 70 82 110, [email protected], www.park-skocjanske-jame.si. Admission prices vary greatly for each of the three paths, from €20/15/10 for adults/students/children for a combined ticket for both underground routes, to free admission for the educational trail without a guide.

Škocjan Caves are truly one of Europe’s most amazing natural sights, photo by Borut Lozej / PŠJ Archives


PostojnaPostojna

With less than 10,000 inhabitants Postojna is barely one of the 20 largest towns in Slovenia, but arguably none are more well-known throughout that world (including the capital Ljubljana) than this relatively nondescript settle-ment in the southwest of the country that wasn’t even officially recognise until 1909. The reason of course it not so much the town itself, but the amazing network of karst caves that lie just below its surface. First opened to the public in 1819, the world-famous Postojna Cave is said to have attracted more than 35 million visitors over the past two centuries, with one of its first being Austro-Hungarian Emperor Francis I the year before it opened. If this were not enough, Postojna is also blessed with an-other popular sight in its immediate vicinity, the magnifi-cent Predjama Castle located some 11km to the northwest of the town centre. Built in the 13th century and partially situated under enormous natural stone arch, it’s not only a fine castle in its own right, but also sits atop another tour-ist cave and is also associated with several fascinating leg-ends.While the vast majority of visitors come to Postojna just to see one or both of its star attractions, with three proper hotels and many other guesthouses and private ac-commodation options located in and around the town, it makes a good base for exploring parts of central Slovenia as well as the Karst region that extends towards the Adri-atic Sea and Italy - Trieste actually being closer to Postojna than Ljubljana (35km and 54km away respectively).

restAurAntsAvIo PubFound just off the runway at Postojna’s small recreational airport, there’s a large garden out back where diners can watch the planes take off and land - many of which are taking visitors on panoramic flights. Despite the name, this place is a full-fledged pizzeria, steakhouse and wine bar, with pizzas coming crispy and hot from a wood-fired oven, steaks grilled to perfection and a wide selection of Slovene wine from the cellar. From Tuesday to Friday there are multi-course lunch specials starting from only €6. Of course the cosy wood-covered interior is very pub-like in appearance, and there are four types of draught beer on hand for those who are thirsty.QRakitnik 1a, Prestranek, tel. +386 (0)5 720 13 10, [email protected], www.aviopub.si. Open 10:00-23:00, Sat-Sun and holi-days 11:00-23:00. Closed Mon. TLBS

ProTeuS reSTAurAnTAfter a day spent exploring Postojna’s famous cave and other sights, treat yourself to a first-class meal at the newly renovated Proteus. Set in a old house that is typical for the region, the restaurant combines the tradi-tional and modern with homemade local cuisine served in an elegant interior. Tables are separated by curtains of fine white string, which are meant to resemble the geo-

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Postojna

With less than 10,000 inhabitants Postojna is barely one of the 20 largest towns in Slovenia, but arguably none are more well-known throughout that world (including the capital Ljubljana) than this relatively nondescript settlement in the southwest of the country that wasn’t even officially recognise until 1909. The reason of course it not so much the town itself, but the amazing network of karst caves that lie just below its surface. First opened to the public in 1819, the world-famous Postojna Cave is said to have attracted more than 35 million visitors over the past two centuries, with one of its first being Austro-Hungarian Emperor Francis I the year before it opened.If this were not enough, Postojna is also blessed with anoth-er popular sight in its immediate vicinity, the magnificent Predjama Castle located some 11km to the northwest of the town centre. Built in the 13th century and partially situated under enormous natural stone arch, it’s not only a fine castle in its own right, but also sits atop another tourist cave and is also associated with several fascinating legends.While the vast majority of visitors come to Postojna just to see one or both of its star attractions, with three proper hotels and many other guesthouses and private accommodation op-tions located in and around the town, it makes a good base for exploring parts of central Slovenia as well as the Karst re-gion that extends towards the Adriatic Sea and Italy - Trieste actually being closer to Postojna than Ljubljana (35km and 54km away respectively).

WHERE TO STAYEPICENTREDespite the name, Epicentre isn’t quite in the centre of town, although as Postojna isn’t a metropolis the location is still walking distance to everything, and what’s more with a restaurant on the premises and a bowling alley right next door it could be considered the epicentre of en-tertainment in town. Most importantly the hotel provides comfortable and affordable accommodation.QKazarje 10, tel. +386 (0)5 700 22 00, [email protected], www.epiceco-hotels.com. 16 rooms, 18 apart-ments (singles €59-63, doubles €75-85, triple €103-118, apartments €65-75). PTJLKW

KRASThis modern hotel is located in the centre of Postojna, just a few minutes on foot to the city’s famous cave, and near several good restaurants. The hotel’s café is also popular with locals and tourists for ice cream during the day and drinks at night. Kras offers everything you would expect from an upmarket hotel - spacious and comfortable rooms with modern furnishings, a decent continental breakfast and very friendly staff.QTržaška 1, tel. +386 (0)5 700 23 00, [email protected], www.epiceco-hotels.com. 24 rooms, 3 suites (singles €71-87, doubles €89-109, suites €121-141).

SPORTLocated just 200m from the centre of Postojna, and just a 10-minute walk from the region’s main attraction, the magnificent Postojna Cave, Hotel Sport is a good accom-modation option with clean comfortable rooms and a very decent buffet breakfast thrown in. The hotel also lives up to its name by offering bicycle storage and rental, whilst the friendly staff are happy to arrange guided cycling or hiking tours in the beautiful countryside surround-ing Postojna.QKolodvorska 1, tel. +386 (0)5 720 22 44, [email protected], www.epiceco-hotels.com. 38 rooms (singles €59-63, doubles €75-85, triples €103-118, apartments €65-75).

AROUND POSTOJNAHOTEL CASINO SAFIRLocated in the town of Sežana, a stone’s throw from the Slovene-Italian border, as the name suggests the mod-ern Hotel Casino Safir is geared towards casino goers. Rooms offer all the modern comforts, whilst if you’re lucky in the casino we suggest upgrading to a superior suit with Jacuzzi. Even if you’re not looking to win mon-ey, the hotel is actually a very good base for exploring some of the beautiful villages and natural sights nearby, while Trieste is less than 10km away.QPartizanska 149, Sežana, tel. +386 (0)5 731 44 44, [email protected], www.safir.si. 51 rooms (singles €69-75, doubles €97-109, suites €121-141).

MIRJAM PENZION & WELLNESSSet just underneath one of Slovenia’s most unique natural sights, the white limestone cliffs at the southern edge of the Nanos plateau, Mirjam is mini resort with budget ac-commodation in both standard guest rooms and a shared hostel-style dormitories, as well as a small campground with hookups for motorhomes, shower facilities and plen-ty of space for pitching a tent. QRazdrto 19, tel. +386 (0)41 684 988/+386 (0)5 75 77 200, [email protected], www.mirjam.si. Singles €35, doubles €44, dorms €12, campground €11/two persons (tent or camper). T6FLEKDCW

WHERE TO EATAVIO PUBFound just off the runway at Postojna’s small recreational air-port, there’s a large garden out back where diners can watch the planes take off and land - many of which are taking visitors on panoramic flights. Despite the name, this place is a full-fledged pizzeria, steakhouse and wine bar, with pizzas coming crispy and hot from a wood-fired oven, steaks grilled to per-fection and a wide selection of Slovene wine from the cellar. From Tuesday to Friday there are multi-course lunch specials starting from only €6. Of course the cosy wood-covered inte-rior is very pub-like in appearance, and there are four types of draught beer on hand for those who are thirsty.QRakitnik 1a, Prestranek, tel. +386 (0)5 720 13 10, [email protected], www.aviopub.si. Open 10:00-23:00, Sat-Sun and holidays 11:00-23:00. Closed Mon. TLBS

Postojna is one of the few towns that still boasts a Tito Square - photo courtesy RDO Postojnska Jama - Zeleni Kras


Postojna


Postojna

With less than 10,000 inhabitants Postojna is barely one of the 20 largest towns in Slovenia, but arguably none are more well-known throughout that world (including the capital Ljubljana) than this relatively nondescript settlement in the southwest of the country that wasn’t even officially recognise until 1909. The reason of course it not so much the town itself, but the amazing network of karst caves that lie just below its surface. First opened to the public in 1819, the world-famous Postojna Cave is said to have attracted more than 35 million visitors over the past two centuries, with one of its first being Austro-Hungarian Emperor Francis I the year before it opened.If this were not enough, Postojna is also blessed with anoth-er popular sight in its immediate vicinity, the magnificent Predjama Castle located some 11km to the northwest of the town centre. Built in the 13th century and partially situated under enormous natural stone arch, it’s not only a fine castle in its own right, but also sits atop another tourist cave and is also associated with several fascinating legends.While the vast majority of visitors come to Postojna just to see one or both of its star attractions, with three proper hotels and many other guesthouses and private accommodation op-tions located in and around the town, it makes a good base for exploring parts of central Slovenia as well as the Karst re-gion that extends towards the Adriatic Sea and Italy - Trieste actually being closer to Postojna than Ljubljana (35km and 54km away respectively).

WHERE TO STAYEPICENTREDespite the name, Epicentre isn’t quite in the centre of town, although as Postojna isn’t a metropolis the location is still walking distance to everything, and what’s more with a restaurant on the premises and a bowling alley right next door it could be considered the epicentre of en-tertainment in town. Most importantly the hotel provides comfortable and affordable accommodation.QKazarje 10, tel. +386 (0)5 700 22 00, [email protected], www.epiceco-hotels.com. 16 rooms, 18 apart-ments (singles €59-63, doubles €75-85, triple €103-118, apartments €65-75). PTJLKW

KRASThis modern hotel is located in the centre of Postojna, just a few minutes on foot to the city’s famous cave, and near several good restaurants. The hotel’s café is also popular with locals and tourists for ice cream during the day and drinks at night. Kras offers everything you would expect from an upmarket hotel - spacious and comfortable rooms with modern furnishings, a decent continental breakfast and very friendly staff.QTržaška 1, tel. +386 (0)5 700 23 00, [email protected], www.epiceco-hotels.com. 24 rooms, 3 suites (singles €71-87, doubles €89-109, suites €121-141).

SPORTLocated just 200m from the centre of Postojna, and just a 10-minute walk from the region’s main attraction, the magnificent Postojna Cave, Hotel Sport is a good accom-modation option with clean comfortable rooms and a very decent buffet breakfast thrown in. The hotel also lives up to its name by offering bicycle storage and rental, whilst the friendly staff are happy to arrange guided cycling or hiking tours in the beautiful countryside surround-ing Postojna.QKolodvorska 1, tel. +386 (0)5 720 22 44, [email protected], www.epiceco-hotels.com. 38 rooms (singles €59-63, doubles €75-85, triples €103-118, apartments €65-75).

AROUND POSTOJNAHOTEL CASINO SAFIRLocated in the town of Sežana, a stone’s throw from the Slovene-Italian border, as the name suggests the mod-ern Hotel Casino Safir is geared towards casino goers. Rooms offer all the modern comforts, whilst if you’re lucky in the casino we suggest upgrading to a superior suit with Jacuzzi. Even if you’re not looking to win mon-ey, the hotel is actually a very good base for exploring some of the beautiful villages and natural sights nearby, while Trieste is less than 10km away.QPartizanska 149, Sežana, tel. +386 (0)5 731 44 44, [email protected], www.safir.si. 51 rooms (singles €69-75, doubles €97-109, suites €121-141).

MIRJAM PENZION & WELLNESSSet just underneath one of Slovenia’s most unique natural sights, the white limestone cliffs at the southern edge of the Nanos plateau, Mirjam is mini resort with budget ac-commodation in both standard guest rooms and a shared hostel-style dormitories, as well as a small campground with hookups for motorhomes, shower facilities and plen-ty of space for pitching a tent. QRazdrto 19, tel. +386 (0)41 684 988/+386 (0)5 75 77 200, [email protected], www.mirjam.si. Singles €35, doubles €44, dorms €12, campground €11/two persons (tent or camper). T6FLEKDCW

WHERE TO EATAVIO PUBFound just off the runway at Postojna’s small recreational air-port, there’s a large garden out back where diners can watch the planes take off and land - many of which are taking visitors on panoramic flights. Despite the name, this place is a full-fledged pizzeria, steakhouse and wine bar, with pizzas coming crispy and hot from a wood-fired oven, steaks grilled to per-fection and a wide selection of Slovene wine from the cellar. From Tuesday to Friday there are multi-course lunch specials starting from only €6. Of course the cosy wood-covered inte-rior is very pub-like in appearance, and there are four types of draught beer on hand for those who are thirsty.QRakitnik 1a, Prestranek, tel. +386 (0)5 720 13 10, [email protected], www.aviopub.si. Open 10:00-23:00, Sat-Sun and holidays 11:00-23:00. Closed Mon. TLBS

Postojna is one of the few towns that still boasts a Tito Square - photo courtesy RDO Postojnska Jama - Zeleni Kras


Postojna

logical formations found inside the cave, and the walls are decorated with works of acclaimed Slovene painter Leo Vilhar.QTitov Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)8 161 0300/+386 (0)40 457 483, [email protected], www.postojnska-jama.eu.

reSTAurAnT & PIzzerIA čuKThis humble restaurant and pizzeria keeps things simple with good food and friendly service. Located on the edge of town, Čuk is popular with locals and visitors alike. On offer are a range of hearty Slovene dishes and excel-lent wood-fired pizzas as well as tasty daily specials. The restaurant is great for families with a selection of kid’s meals and a playground to occupy the little ones be-fore or after eating. If you are staying in town and don’t feel like heading out, Čuk also delivers.QPot v Pivki 4, tel. +386 (0)5 7201 300, [email protected], www.pizza-cuk.si. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PTLV

dolenčevI TourIST fArMSlovenes are a rustic down to earth bunch with many families still growing their own veggies and producing homemade delicacies from salami to plum brandy. The Dolenčevi tourist farm, an ecological family-run estate 10km from Postojna, is the perfect place for visitors to experience this strong connection to the land and taste the fruits of their labour - the homegrown and prepared food at Dolenčevi is excellent, with the house-cured pro-sciutto and gnocchi with local game coming especially highly recommended. The farm is located in a tranquil forested area with great opportunities for hiking and riding (bike rental available), and the must-see Postojna and Škocjan caves are just a short drive away.QSajevče 8, Hruševje, tel. +386 (0)5 756 20 22, [email protected], www.dolencevi.si. From €20/person, €24 with breakfast, €34 with half-board.

Stop by Proteus Restaurant for a gourmet dining experience in the centre of Postojna


PostojnaPostojna

PROTEUS RESTAURANTAfter a day spent exploring Postojna’s famous cave and other sights, treat yourself to a first-class meal at the newly renovated Proteus. Set in a old house that is typical for the region, the restaurant combines the traditional and mod-ern with homemade local cuisine served in an elegant in-terior. Tables are separated by curtains of fine white string, which are meant to resemble the geological formations found inside the cave, and the walls are decorated with works of acclaimed Slovene painter Leo Vilhar.QTitov Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)8 161 0300/+386 (0)40 457 483, [email protected], www.postojnska-jama.eu.

RESTAURANT & PIZZERIA ČUKThis humble restaurant and pizzeria keeps things simple with good food and friendly service. Located on the edge of town, Čuk is popular with locals and visitors alike. On offer are a range of hearty Slovene dishes and excellent wood-fired pizzas as well as tasty daily specials. The restaurant is great for families with a selection of kid’s meals and a play-ground to occupy the little ones before or after eating. If you are staying in town and don’t feel like heading out, Čuk also delivers.QPot v Pivki 4, tel. +386 (0)5 7201 300, [email protected], www.pizza-cuk.si. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PTLV

AROUND POSTOJNADOLENČEVI TOURIST FARMSlovenes are a rustic down to earth bunch with many families still growing their own veggies and producing homemade delicacies from salami to plum brandy. The Dolenčevi tourist farm, an ecological family-run estate 10km from Postojna, is the perfect place for visitors to ex-perience this strong connection to the land and taste the fruits of their labour - the homegrown and prepared food at Dolenčevi is excellent, with the house-cured prosciutto

and gnocchi with local game coming especially highly recommended. The farm is located in a tranquil forested area with great opportunities for hiking and riding (bike rental available), and the must-see Postojna and Škocjan caves are just a short drive away.QSajevče 8, Hruševje, tel. +386 (0)5 756 20 22, [email protected], www.dolencevi.si. From €20/person, €24 with breakfast, €34 with half-board.

MORSKI KONJIČEKFound near the town of Pivka just off the main Postojna-Pivka-Ilirska Bistrica road (some 15 minutes south of the A1 motorway), this sprawling countryside restaurant is a popular stop for Slovenes and tourists after a day at the coast. Given that its name translates ‘seahorse’ in English, it’s not surprising that fish and other seafood specialities are the main focus of the menu here, but for those who have already had their fill of such fare, there are plenty of other dishes and some fine pizzas. For families there’s a children’s playground for a before or after dinner romp, and for those who’d like to stay for a drink or five the place is open till the wee hours at the weekends.QMala Pris-tava 10, Pivka, tel. +386 (0)5 753 20 55/+386 (0)41 523 325, [email protected]. Open 11:00-24:00, Fri 11:00-04:00, Sat 09:00-04:00, Sun 09:00-24:00. Closed Mon except for holidays.

POSTOJNSKA JAMA

POSTOJNA CAVE (POSTOJNSKA JAMA)The largest cave in the karst region and most visited show cave in all of Europe, words on a page can hardly do justice to the majesty of Postojna. So far, more than 20km of gal-leries have been found, of which barely a fraction are open to the public. All the same, a visit here still takes up much of a morning or an afternoon, as you make your way through the most spectacular parts of the cave, at first by a dinky lit-tle narrow-gauge train, and then on foot. There are no stairs or difficult climbs along the path to or inside the cave, so visitors with limited mobility should not have any difficulties. Formed over millions of years by the Pivka river, the cave was discovered in the 13th century, though never properly explored until the early 1800s. They opened as a tourist at-traction in 1819, with Franz I, Emperor of Austria, among the first to visit. Bizarrely, so popular did the caves become that electric lights were fitted in 1884: some years before such technology was first deployed in Ljubljana itself.Highlights of the cave include the enormous stalactites and stalagmites, and the quite sensational concert hall, which can (and does) hold 10,000 people. The acoustics down here are said to be sensational. Note that the temperature of the cave is a chilly 10°C, so bring a jumper. The caves are also home to olms (or white salamanders), a blind amphib-ian endemic to the subterranean waters of caves of this part of Europe. The olms can be seen in some of the pools of water as you make your way around the cave. Though blind they are sensitive to flash photography and if you do spot one you should refrain from taking any photos.QJamska 30, Postojna, tel. +386 (0)5 700 01 00, fax +386 (0)5 700 01 30, [email protected], www.postojnska-jama.eu. Open every day, all year. From Nov to March tours at 10:00, 12:00 and 15:00, in April and Oct at 10:00, 12:00, 14:00 and 16:00.

PREDJAMA CASTLE (PREDJAMSKI GRAD)Located some 10km north of Postojna is one of Europe’s fin-est castles. Predjama Castle (or Predjamski grad, Höhlenburg Lueg and Castel Lueghi in Slovene, German and Italian respec-tively), was built in a Gothic style by the Patriarch of Aquileia sometime during the 13th century and first mentioned in the historical record in the year 1274. Perched under a natural archway 123m up a sheer cliff face and surrounded by a thick stone wall, throughout the centuries the castle has gained a well-deserved reputation for being virtually impregnable.This fact was most popularly demonstrated during the 15th century by the more than year-long siege of Erazem Lueger, who was a knight and the son of the Imperial governor of Trieste, but had also a gained a reputation as a rather profi-cient robber baron throughout the Habsburg empire. It is said that in 1483, Erazem fled to the castle from Vienna after killing a Marshall of the Imperial Army who had insulted one of his friends, which brought about the wrath of Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II, who laid siege to the castle. However, thanks to a secret cave leading from the bowels of Predjama to Postojna Cave and then on to the nearby village of Vipava, Erazem was able to secure an steady supply of fresh food and water. Unfortunately for Erazem, his luck ran out when he was betrayed by one of his servants and unceremoniously killed by the shot of a single canon ball while on the toilette. In the years that followed, the castle was destroyed and rebuilt sev-eral times, before acquiring a Renaissance style in 1570, which has remained virtually unchanged to this day.Nowadays the castle is open to the public and serves as a mu-seum. It has been completely restored to its original grandeur, and among other sites visitors can see the residential quarters, the chapel and of course the dungeon. It is also possible to see the legendary cave below the castle, although some climb-ing and a minimal level of fitness is strongly encouraged if not required. QJamska 30, Postojna, tel. +386 (0)5 700 01 00, fax +386 (0)5 700 01 30, [email protected], www.postojnska-jama.eu. Open every day, all year. From Nov to March open from 10:00 to 16:00, in April and Oct from 10:00 to 17:00, in May, June and Sept from 9:00 to 18:00, during July and Aug from 9:00 to 19:00.

Restaurant Proteus Postojna

Read more about Postojna online at postojna.inyourpocket.com


PostojnaPostojna


PROTEUS RESTAURANTAfter a day spent exploring Postojna’s famous cave and other sights, treat yourself to a first-class meal at the newly renovated Proteus. Set in a old house that is typical for the region, the restaurant combines the traditional and mod-ern with homemade local cuisine served in an elegant in-terior. Tables are separated by curtains of fine white string, which are meant to resemble the geological formations found inside the cave, and the walls are decorated with works of acclaimed Slovene painter Leo Vilhar.QTitov Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)8 161 0300/+386 (0)40 457 483, [email protected], www.postojnska-jama.eu.

RESTAURANT & PIZZERIA ČUKThis humble restaurant and pizzeria keeps things simple with good food and friendly service. Located on the edge of town, Čuk is popular with locals and visitors alike. On offer are a range of hearty Slovene dishes and excellent wood-fired pizzas as well as tasty daily specials. The restaurant is great for families with a selection of kid’s meals and a play-ground to occupy the little ones before or after eating. If you are staying in town and don’t feel like heading out, Čuk also delivers.QPot v Pivki 4, tel. +386 (0)5 7201 300, [email protected], www.pizza-cuk.si. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PTLV

AROUND POSTOJNADOLENČEVI TOURIST FARMSlovenes are a rustic down to earth bunch with many families still growing their own veggies and producing homemade delicacies from salami to plum brandy. The Dolenčevi tourist farm, an ecological family-run estate 10km from Postojna, is the perfect place for visitors to ex-perience this strong connection to the land and taste the fruits of their labour - the homegrown and prepared food at Dolenčevi is excellent, with the house-cured prosciutto

and gnocchi with local game coming especially highly recommended. The farm is located in a tranquil forested area with great opportunities for hiking and riding (bike rental available), and the must-see Postojna and Škocjan caves are just a short drive away.QSajevče 8, Hruševje, tel. +386 (0)5 756 20 22, [email protected], www.dolencevi.si. From €20/person, €24 with breakfast, €34 with half-board.

MORSKI KONJIČEKFound near the town of Pivka just off the main Postojna-Pivka-Ilirska Bistrica road (some 15 minutes south of the A1 motorway), this sprawling countryside restaurant is a popular stop for Slovenes and tourists after a day at the coast. Given that its name translates ‘seahorse’ in English, it’s not surprising that fish and other seafood specialities are the main focus of the menu here, but for those who have already had their fill of such fare, there are plenty of other dishes and some fine pizzas. For families there’s a children’s playground for a before or after dinner romp, and for those who’d like to stay for a drink or five the place is open till the wee hours at the weekends.QMala Pris-tava 10, Pivka, tel. +386 (0)5 753 20 55/+386 (0)41 523 325, [email protected]. Open 11:00-24:00, Fri 11:00-04:00, Sat 09:00-04:00, Sun 09:00-24:00. Closed Mon except for holidays.

POSTOJNSKA JAMA

POSTOJNA CAVE (POSTOJNSKA JAMA)The largest cave in the karst region and most visited show cave in all of Europe, words on a page can hardly do justice to the majesty of Postojna. So far, more than 20km of gal-leries have been found, of which barely a fraction are open to the public. All the same, a visit here still takes up much of a morning or an afternoon, as you make your way through the most spectacular parts of the cave, at first by a dinky lit-tle narrow-gauge train, and then on foot. There are no stairs or difficult climbs along the path to or inside the cave, so visitors with limited mobility should not have any difficulties. Formed over millions of years by the Pivka river, the cave was discovered in the 13th century, though never properly explored until the early 1800s. They opened as a tourist at-traction in 1819, with Franz I, Emperor of Austria, among the first to visit. Bizarrely, so popular did the caves become that electric lights were fitted in 1884: some years before such technology was first deployed in Ljubljana itself.Highlights of the cave include the enormous stalactites and stalagmites, and the quite sensational concert hall, which can (and does) hold 10,000 people. The acoustics down here are said to be sensational. Note that the temperature of the cave is a chilly 10°C, so bring a jumper. The caves are also home to olms (or white salamanders), a blind amphib-ian endemic to the subterranean waters of caves of this part of Europe. The olms can be seen in some of the pools of water as you make your way around the cave. Though blind they are sensitive to flash photography and if you do spot one you should refrain from taking any photos.QJamska 30, Postojna, tel. +386 (0)5 700 01 00, fax +386 (0)5 700 01 30, [email protected], www.postojnska-jama.eu. Open every day, all year. From Nov to March tours at 10:00, 12:00 and 15:00, in April and Oct at 10:00, 12:00, 14:00 and 16:00.

PREDJAMA CASTLE (PREDJAMSKI GRAD)Located some 10km north of Postojna is one of Europe’s fin-est castles. Predjama Castle (or Predjamski grad, Höhlenburg Lueg and Castel Lueghi in Slovene, German and Italian respec-tively), was built in a Gothic style by the Patriarch of Aquileia sometime during the 13th century and first mentioned in the historical record in the year 1274. Perched under a natural archway 123m up a sheer cliff face and surrounded by a thick stone wall, throughout the centuries the castle has gained a well-deserved reputation for being virtually impregnable.This fact was most popularly demonstrated during the 15th century by the more than year-long siege of Erazem Lueger, who was a knight and the son of the Imperial governor of Trieste, but had also a gained a reputation as a rather profi-cient robber baron throughout the Habsburg empire. It is said that in 1483, Erazem fled to the castle from Vienna after killing a Marshall of the Imperial Army who had insulted one of his friends, which brought about the wrath of Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II, who laid siege to the castle. However, thanks to a secret cave leading from the bowels of Predjama to Postojna Cave and then on to the nearby village of Vipava, Erazem was able to secure an steady supply of fresh food and water. Unfortunately for Erazem, his luck ran out when he was betrayed by one of his servants and unceremoniously killed by the shot of a single canon ball while on the toilette. In the years that followed, the castle was destroyed and rebuilt sev-eral times, before acquiring a Renaissance style in 1570, which has remained virtually unchanged to this day.Nowadays the castle is open to the public and serves as a mu-seum. It has been completely restored to its original grandeur, and among other sites visitors can see the residential quarters, the chapel and of course the dungeon. It is also possible to see the legendary cave below the castle, although some climb-ing and a minimal level of fitness is strongly encouraged if not required. QJamska 30, Postojna, tel. +386 (0)5 700 01 00, fax +386 (0)5 700 01 30, [email protected], www.postojnska-jama.eu. Open every day, all year. From Nov to March open from 10:00 to 16:00, in April and Oct from 10:00 to 17:00, in May, June and Sept from 9:00 to 18:00, during July and Aug from 9:00 to 19:00.

Restaurant Proteus Postojna

Read more about Postojna online at postojna.inyourpocket.com


PostojnaPostojna


ACCoMModAtion ePIcenTreDespite the name, Epicentre isn’t quite in the centre of town, although as Postojna isn’t a metropolis the loca-tion is still walking distance to everything, and what’s more with a restaurant on the premises and a bowling alley right next door it could be considered the epi-centre of entertainment in town. Most importantly the hotel provides comfortable and affordable accommo-dation, and is especially popular with families, as half of the rooms a fully equipped apartments. There are also conference facilities.QKazarje 10, tel. +386 (0)5 700 22 00, [email protected], www.epiceco-hotels.com. 16 rooms, 18 apartments (singles €59-63, doubles €75-85, triple €103-118, apartments €65-75). PiTJLKW

KrASThis modern hotel is located in the centre of Postojna, just a few minutes on foot to the city’s famous cave, and near several good restaurants. The hotel’s café is also popular with locals and tourists for ice cream during the day and drinks at night. Kras offers everything you would expect from an upmarket hotel - spacious and comfortable rooms with modern furnishings, a decent continental breakfast and very friendly staff.QTržaška 1, tel. +386 (0)5 700 23 00, [email protected], www.epiceco-hotels.com. 24 rooms, 3 suites (singles €71-87, doubles €89-109, suites €121-141).

SPorTLocated just 200m from the centre of Postojna, and just a 10-minute walk from the region’s main attraction, the magnificent Postojna Cave, Hotel Sport is a good accommodation option with clean comfortable rooms and a very decent buffet break-fast thrown in. The hotel also lives up to its name by of fering bicycle storage and rental, whilst the friendly staf f are happy to arrange guided cycling or hiking tours in the beautiful countryside surround-ing Postojna.QKolodvorska 1, tel. +386 (0)5 720 22 44, [email protected], www.epiceco-hotels.com. 38 rooms (singles €59-63, doubles €75-85, triples €103-118, apartments €65-75).

hoTel cASIno SAfIrLocated in the town of Sežana, a stone’s throw from the Slovene-Italian border, as the name suggests the mod-ern Hotel Casino Safir is geared towards casino goers. Rooms offer all the modern comforts, whilst if you’re lucky in the casino we suggest upgrading to a superior suit with Jacuzzi. Even if you’re not looking to win mon-ey, the hotel is actually a very good base for exploring some of the beautiful villages and natural sights nearby, while Trieste is less than 10km away.QPartizanska 149, Sežana, tel. +386 (0)5 731 44 44, [email protected], www.safir.si. 51 rooms (singles €69-75, doubles €97-109, suites €121-141).

MIrjAM PenzIon, cAMP & wellneSSSet just underneath one of Slovenia’s most unique nat-ural sights, the white limestone cliffs at the southern edge of the Nanos plateau, Mirjam is mini resort with budget accommodation in both standard guest rooms and a shared hostel-style dormitories, as well as a small campground with hookups for motorhomes, shower facilities and plenty of space for pitching a tent. The family-run place also includes billiards, a football pitch and a swimming pool among other amenities, while a full wellness and medical treatment centre rounds out the offer. All in all, it’s a great place for cyclists, campers and other budget travellers to break their journeys on the way to or from the coast.QRazdrto 19, tel. +386 (0)41 684 988/+386 (0)5 75 77 200, [email protected], www.mirjam.si. Singles €35, doubles €44, dorms €12, campground €11/two persons (tent or camper). iT6FLEKDCwW

Penzion, camp & wellness MirjamRazdrto 19

Gsm: +386 (0)41 684 988Telefon: +386 (0)5 75 77 200www.mirjam.si

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BUSSTATION

Football Stadium

Cemetery

Aquarium

MONOLIT

PortorožIzolaKoperLjubljana

Town wall

Moštra93

Rt Madona

Port of Piran

GULF OF PIRAN

PIRAN - PIRANO CITYSCALE 1:6,500

0 0,04 0,08 0,12 0,160,02Kilometers

ParkingGas

Hospital MuseumChurch

Post OfficeEmbassyESTourist Info Office Campsite

BeachCruise port

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