{the cut}

Fashion Moments ................34 Best in Show .............................36 Labelled .......................................38Icon ................................................38Fashion Feature ......................39

34

w./t

he

cut/

11.0

9.20

09/L

aura

Gat

sos

Shorts

The colourful writer Truman Capote hosted Frank Sinatra, Mia Farrow, CZ Guest, Henry Ford, Lynda Bird Johnson, Gianni Agnelli, Arthur Schlesinger and Gloria Guinness, in addition to 540 of society’s movers and shakers in an elaborate party at New York’s Plaza Hotel in 1966. The invite-only party, said to be in honour of Washington Post publisher Kay Graham but really to pub-licise the host’s riveting book In Cold Blood, symbolised an era pulsing with a sense of modernity, while remaining true to the traditions of old Hollywood glamour. Capote mixed stars from the social and entertainment realms with political heavyweights. Known for being notoriously media savvy, Truman invited the press to document the event for the world to see. The theme was black and white and attendees were advised to wear masks to add some mys-tery to the event. As such, hair became an outlet of expression for women. At-tended exclusively by the beautiful people, it was Penelope Tree who stole the night. More undressed than dressed in a flowing black tunic and form-fitting tights, her entrance signaled the presence of a new generation. Fashion pho-tographers Cecil Beaton and Richard Avedon were so enchanted, they con-spired on the spot to turn her into a cover girl — which is what she became.

{Great Fashion Moments}

Truman Capote’s Black and White Ball

Not Just a LabelToo often, fashionistas get caught up in names — that’s where Not Just A Label can help. The online shop is dedicated to unknown de-signers and one-offs. Each month, the site features a different person-ality who curates a collection based on the site’s offerings. This month, rising star model Lara Stone acts as stylist. (www.notjustalabel.com)

Shaikh Majed Al-Sabah Steps DownKuwaiti retailer Shaikh Majed Al-Sabah said on Wednesday he would step down as chairman of Villa Moda. He cited “differences of opinion for the brand’s future” with its majority shareholder, the Dubai International Financial Centre. Ac-cording to Women’s Wear Daily, Al-Sabah plans to devote himself to new retail projects in the region.

Marchesa Bags ItGeorgina Chapman, designer of the dress label Marchesa, will pres-ent her first bag collection on Sep-tember 16 in New York. Chapman told Women’s Wear Daily that she designed her bags much like her dresses, with draping, beading and rosettes as accoutrements. After all, what would a Marchesa piece be without rosettes? (Boutique 1, 04-4257888)

Just Not Posh EnoughContrary to popular belief, Victoria Beckham is still not good enough to grace the cover of US Vogue. Ru-mours proved false as Posh turned up on the cover of the October issue of Elle looking as though she was constructed out of Lego. Subtler tan + breast reduction = possible Vogue cover? (www.elle.com)

36

w./t

he

cut/

11.0

9.20

09/ L

aura

Gat

sos

Obj

ects

of D

esir

e

Chien Vivant pet beds

Let’s face it: most people consider their pet a member of the family, so why shouldn’t our furry friends be relieved of the hard floor and given a soft spot to rest their heads just like the rest of us? Chien Vi-vant, the high-end purveyor of all things pet-related, is offering a col-lection of 14 new couture beds ranging in price from $1,500 to $1,800. The beds have sophisticated French names, such as Le Bijou, Napo-lione and Marsilles, and have that certain je ne sais quoi to back it up. Crafted from fine materials such as silk velvet, crushed velvet, faux leather and suede and adorned with crystal bows, jewels and medal-lions, these beds are for the pet owner who really wants to show their puppy love. As if providing your pooch with a designer bed was not enough, Chien Vivant will personalise the bed by monogramming the headboard with Swarovski crystals. Chien Vivant is definitely a dog’s best friend. (www.chienvivant.com)

Erin WassonModel Erin Wasson attends the Opening Ceremony launch in Tokyo wearing leopard print, mid-length shorts and a plain jersey tank. The accessories punch up the outfit, as she layers multiple necklaces and bracelets to transition the look from summer to fall.

Matteo MarzottoDashingly handsome, Matteo Marzotto wears a mid-night blue silk lapelled black tux with a red silk pocket square for a little colour. His double-breasted vest is a departure from the classic, but it goes well with his bow-tie and tuxedo shirt.

Best in Show

38

w./t

he

cut/

11.0

9.20

09/ L

aura

Gat

sos

Anna dello Russo

She has a presence on almost every blog dedicated to fashion and style, and she is one of The Sartorialist's most photographed subjects. Granted, she has the enormous budget it requires to dress in couture daily, but Russo also has the inherent knack for putting an outfit together. Be it fringes, feathers, bold colours, extreme shoulders or cocktail dresses in broad day-light, the fashion director-at-large for Vogue Nip-pon always looks fabulous. Usually donning a look straight off the runway, Russo pays careful attention to accessories — her perennial favourites include vertiginous heels (she has more than 4,000 pairs) by Azzedine Alaia, Christian Louboutin and Balenciaga and statement jewellery by Bulgari. Russo’s approach to dressing can be characterised as fearless — she is not afraid to wear the most avant-garde creations on the street. Her enthusiasm for dressing and the un-abashed pleasure she takes in discovering designers, is an inspiration to those who follow fashion. One blogger noted “she makes me want to try a little hard-er, be a little bolder and take more risks.” Russo hap-pily admits that she has an obsession with fashion, as evidenced by the glass enclosure in which she dis-plays her favourite shoes. She also keeps a separate apartment exclusively for her clothing, where every-thing is tagged and enveloped as she dreams of one day holding her own exhibition — most of us would prefer a private sale.

Elizabeth & James

While often in the press for their weight issues and romantic dalliances, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen are collectively a consumer goods powerhouse who learned very early in their careers that they were marketable. Founders and now controlling partners of their company, Dualstar Entertainment Group, Mary-Kate and Ashley are notoriously reclusive. The adorable twins have opened up a little, sharing their sartorial taste with the public through their clothing lines Elizabeth & James, The Row and E&J. Always passionate about dressing, the twin sisters launched Elizabeth & James in 2007. Their design approach is to bring a couture sensibility to the contemporary customer, fusing uptown and downtown NYC, mas-culine and feminine and casual and dressy. Signature elements include the menswear-inspired blazer and dress shirt, delicate mini-dresses, detailing, skinny pants, sequins and unusual fabrics. Their eclectic style is evident throughout the line — washed leather jackets and mini-skirts, twill military-inspired tops and supersoft shrunken and oversize T-shirts can be seen simultaneously on the twins and on the racks in the finest department stores worldwide. Unlike ce-lebrities who merely lend their names to a label, the Olsens are heavily involved in designing. (Elizabeth & James is sold at Boutique 1, 04-425 7888)

Labelled

{Icon}

w./c

ut/

11.0

9.20

09

39

Modelling in Dubai

As Dubai has grown into a global metropolis and become a re-gional hub for the media, fash-ion and advertising industries, a need for local models has

arisen. As befits such a multi-cultural city, Dubai offers opportunities for a more di-verse range of models than the old-guard fashion capitals of Europe.

“In London, you start your modelling career at 13 and you’re an old model at 22 or 23,” says Eliza Galbraith, head of book-ing at Bareface. “Out here in Dubai, you’ve got more of a chance of becoming a catwalk and fashion model as Dubai doesn’t adhere to the size zero figure that is popular in oth-

Georgina Wilson-Powell explores the world of modelling in Dubai

Sitting Pretty

40

w./c

ut/

11.0

9.20

09

w./c

ut/

11.0

9.20

09

41

Modelling in Dubai

er cities. It’s easier to be still working if you don’t fit an exact mould and you work longer. There are models here working in their 30s.”

Despite the stereotypes com-monly ascribed to models, not all of the women on Bareface’s books are leggy, blonde, thin waifs; in fact, they are in the minority.

The agency has separate divi-sions to reflect the diverse demand in Dubai for all types of people. It does have the top end — the girls who might grace the cover of Harp-ers’ Bazaar or who go on to strut the catwalks of Europe — but the pool is relatively small.

“We have what we call ‘models one’, which is the high end fashion girls. Then we have what we call ‘models two’, which has less strict restrictions and is for more com-mercial and lifestyle work,” Gal-braith says. “In Dubai, there’s far more of this type of job so as some-one placed in models two, you might actually get more work.

“We have a division called ‘cast and kids’ and then we have our en-tertainers section, which includes everyone from jugglers to dancers and singers.”

This categorisation is necessary for the agency as there is a growing demand in the region for all types of models with all types of skills. As Dubai and Abu Dhabi increasingly play an important part in staging global events or act as locations for various film and TV projects, the de-mand for local people to fill model-ling or acting roles increases.

It’s this kind of demand that means Bareface has a wide range of models — one that expands beyond the choice of blondes or brunettes weakly offered up as proof of diver-sity on many runways.

“We have lots of Arabic men on our books,” reveals Galbraith. “We have lots of people who are perfect for extras work in films and com-mercial shoots, who are just normal people, and we have a huge num-ber of older Arabic guys who play grandfather roles in TV adverts or corporate videos.

They love coming in and doing a bit of acting — it’s such a different experience from their normal job.

We’re always looking for new kids who can act or photograph well, too.”

Mikaela Rijkmans was one such kid. Originally from South Africa, she’s now 16 years old but started modelling when she was only two. “I’ve been mostly cast for editorials, but I would love to work more over-seas. Modelling can have really long hours and it’s hard sitting still, but it’s great meeting different people. The best shoot so far was for Cartier — it was such good fun.”

Galbraith says running an agency in the Middle East also comes with unique challenges.

“We do have to be very proactive outside the models one division as a lot of people don’t even realise we exist, especially Lebanese or Arabic families, who are always in demand

amongst our clients. “If we see any potential Arabic

models, then we always take time to talk to the family and make sure they realise what is involved and respect any cultural concerns.

“Any model, no matter what divi-sion, has to have their parents’ con-sent if they are under 21.”

As Dubai is home to so many cul-tures, Bareface’s models often need to have a Middle Eastern look, even if they are not from the region.

Many South American models double for Middle Eastern ones, but this can lead to problems with speaking parts if Arabic is needed.

Claire Webb, a Canadian model with Bareface with West Indian and British parents, has made her multi-

‘If we see any potential Arabic models, then we always take time to talk to the fam-ily and respect any cultural concerns,’ says Eliza Gal-braith, Bareface

cultural versatility work for her over the last 10 years. She’s now 32 and has worked on a range of com-mercial projects, including adverts alongside heart throbs George Cloo-ney and Antonio Banderas.

“I’ve worked with beauty brands like MAC and Nivea, on glossy magazine shoots, with companies like Emirates Airlines...all sorts,” she explains. “I thought I would try it for a while after studying finance, but I fell in love with modelling.

“It can be a lucrative career with travel opportunities, flexible hours and social networking. I’ll never for-get working with Antonio Banderas on a TV commercial for his cologne. It was amazing to work with such a skilled actor, and in between takes he even taught me his tango moves.”

As well as scouting in malls, at drama groups and productions like the recent High School Musical, Bareface receives a lot of applica-tions through its website and Face-book group.

The team have noticed a rise in applications since Tyra Banks’ America’s Next Top Model show has become so popular, with region-al variations flooding prime time TV. It’s no surprise really, as the show reveals a lifestyle and career that for many girls all over the world, is very appealing.

“It has made a difference. Every-one is obsessed with reality TV and everyone thinks they can be a mod-el. It is great for us that lots of people now get in touch and there’s a much wider understanding of what mod-els are required to do, which wasn’t there a few years ago.

“But now everyone wants to be fa-mous and it’s a hard fact that there is a lot of rejection in this industry,” says Galbraith.

“Telling a girl she’s not right for models one, but is perfect for mod-els two can be tough sometimes, but if someone wants to be a model then they need to develop thick skin.”

There are plenty of applications that don’t get accepted, from friends of a scouted teenager to parents sending in photos of their children, or just people that don’t fit the mould that Bareface’s clients are after.

European looking models, ie peo-

42

w./c

ut/

11.0

9.20

09

ple with blonde hair and blue eyes, might be popular in Europe, but here in Dubai, the demand is very small. Plenty of stunning European girls get turned down, not because they’re not good enough, but be-cause they’re not suitable.

“People forget that just because you are beautiful, or you think your child is the best looking child ever, doesn’t mean that they will pho-tograph well. Being photogenic is something completely different,” says Galbraith.

Modelling in Dubai, unlike the modelling in America’s Next Top Model, is not all designer dresses, parties and Jimmy Choos. Far from it. Modelling is hard work and even once accepted by an agency, models have to get used to a lot of rejection, no matter which division they end up in at Bareface.

“Anyone interested in this indus-try should realise that it is a hard in-dustry to work in and should expect a level of rejection,” says Galbraith. “You might go to 25 castings and only get one job.

“The rejection is huge, and there are hundreds of girls competing all the time. You have to be tough, be on it all the time and be hard working.”

No matter what type of model, however, there are some qualities that all top models have. There’s a lot more to it than just a good smile and sitting still.

Helena Christensen famously said, “When you are modelling, you are creating a picture, a still life, per-haps something like a silent film. You convey emotion but you are

‘You have to place yourself in a dif-ferent world to make the job work. When the whole team is happy, I think I did my job well,’ says Irene van Ruitenburg

CATWALK DIVA: French model Sixtine Duprez

w./c

ut/

11.0

9.20

09

43

Modelling in Dubai

only using your body.”Galbraith says from an agency

point of view, there are other quali-ties below the surface that bookers will look for.

“A good model is loyal, outgo-ing and friendly. A lot of it is about personality — you’re dealing with make-up artists, stylists, hairdress-ers and you need to be able to deal with them all professionally. Then there’s the direction. A successful model must be able to take direction from the photographer and listen to everything he wants them to do and to portray.”

Model Irene van Ruitenburg agrees, “You have to place yourself in a different world to make the job work.” Originally from Holland, Ruitenburg has been modelling for eight years. “When the whole team is happy and working well together, then I think I did my job well.”

However, whilst Dubai’s model-ling industry is growing, it’s a far cry from the kind of market where girls won’t get out of bed for less than $10,000 a day. Most models in Dubai work part-time.

“I work as a marketing director for real estate company Engel & Vickers in Abu Dhabi,” says Sixtine Duprez, a French catwalk model who has been modelling for nine years. “But modelling gave me the confidence to go and do that; you meet so many new people and have so many expe-riences. I love working during fash-ion week.

“It’s just amazing with all the dif-ferent layouts and the tension be-fore a show.”

But what about the boys? “A lot of the male models are cabin crew with airlines and many people have regu-lar jobs,” says Galbraith.

“There’s not enough work out here yet for most models to be full time and there’s no concept of exclu-sivity so everyone works freelance, often signed to several agencies, which makes our job harder.

“In Paris or New York, models are exclusive to agencies which means the agencies can guarantee a better wage for the model and there is an official or non-official industry stan-dard.

“Out here, there’s no such thing

RISING STAR: South African model Mikaela Rijkmans

and clients still believe that they can get an entire commercial shot for money that elsewhere wouldn’t even cover the photog-rapher, let alone anything else. It’s tough going sometimes, but it is improving.”

With Dubai Fashion week in October and an autumn line-up including the Abu Dubai Grand Prix and the Dubai International Film Festival, demand for Bare-face’s models is at an all time high. But for those who are interested in getting into modelling, remember it’s not all about looking good. De-termination, ambition and a thick skin are just as important.

wknd@khaleejtimes.com

Modelling in Dubai

MODEL CITIZEN: Head of Booking, Bareface,Eliza Galbraith