Singer 1950s Sewing Machine Manual Class 99/99K
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Class 99 & 99K Sewing Machines Instruction Manual Table of Contents | Next Page
description
Manual for Singer Class 99 and 99K sewing machine. These machine models were built in 1950 and came in two versions; the hand crank model and the electric model. Thankfully, I have the electric model and it's still sewing.
Transcript of Singer 1950s Sewing Machine Manual Class 99/99K
Class 99 amp 99KSewing Machines
Instruction Manual
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Class 99 amp 99K
Table of Contents
Instructions forOperating the Machine Electrical InformationRemove and Replace Light BulbOperate ElectricallyOperate by HandTreadle OperationProtection Against Rust DamageTo Oil the Machine and StandNeedle Size ChartTo Set the NeedleUpper ThreadingTo Remove the BobbinTo Wind the BobbinTo Replace the BobbinTo Prepare for SewingTo Start SewingTo Turn a CornerBastingTo Sew Bias SeamsTo Remove the WorkTo Regulate Length of StitchTo Reverse the Direction of FeedTo Regulate Pressure on Presser FootThread TensionTo Regulate Needle Thread TensionTo Regulate Bobbin Thread TensionTo Adjust Needle amp Bobbin TensionsTo Remove Bobbin CaseTo Replace Bobbin CaseTo Replace Slide Plate Sewing SuggestionsThe BeltTo Avoid Breaking NeedlesBreaking of Needle ThreadBreaking of Bobbin ThreadSkipping of StitchesMachine Working Heavily
Instructions forUsing the Attachments The Foot HemmerHemmingHemmed SeamsHemming with Lace The BinderInserting the BindingAdjustment amp Operation of the BinderBinding Curved Edges The Gathering FootShirring The RufflerTo Adjust the RufflerTo Activate Parts of the RufflerGatheringForming amp Attaching a Ruffle in OneOperationPleatingGroup Pleating The Seam Guide The Zipper FootPreparationInserting a Skirt ZipperSewing Corded WeltingSewing Corded Seams Fashion AidsThe ButtonholerThe Blind StitcherThe Bias GaugeThe Edge-StitcherThe QuilterThe Adjustable HemmerThe TuckerDarning or Embroidering Singer Needles and Oil
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Class 99 amp 99KELECTRICAL INFORMATION
The Singer electric motor is located at the back of the machine and can besupplied for operation on alternating or direct current Orders must state thecatalogue number of the motor or the voltage and in the case of alternatingcurrent the number of cycles
Before inserting electrical plug be sure that voltage and number of cyclesstamped on motor nameplate are within range marked on electric meter installedby electric power company
Electrical Connections for Machine Push three-pin safety plug into three-pinterminal block at right of machine and connect plug at other end of cord toelectric supply point
Speed Controller The speed of machine is regulated by amount of pressure onfoot or knee controller
CAUTION When you have finished your sewing always disconnect theplug from the electric supply point
LIGHT
To turn light on reach over machine arm and turn switch V Fig 1 to right Toextinguish light turn switch to left
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Remove Bulb
Grasp light socket so that thumb extends over switch V Press shade with thumbat U to release shade from two catches and slide it halfway out of shade holderW Press bulb into socket and at same time turn bulb over from machine as faras it will go to unlock pin X (see Figs 3 and 4) Withdraw the bulb
To Insert New Bulb
Press bulb into socket and turn it over toward machine until pin X enters notch insocket (see Fig 3) Return shade to its normal position as shown in Fig 1
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Class 99 amp 99K
If the Machine is ElectricallyOperated
Raise presser foot Q by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury tothe foot Q and feed T
Place a piece of material under presserfoot and let the foot down upon it Turnon electric current and if thecombination knee and foot controller isinstalled as a knee controller pressknee lever to the right If controller isplaced on the floor to be used as a footcontroller press down on pedal ofcontroller The speed of the machine iscontrolled entirely by the amount ofpresser applied to the controller Operate machine in this way withoutbeing threaded until you have becomeaccustomed to guiding the material andoperating the controller
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Class 99 amp 99K
If the Machine is Hand Operated
When the machine is uncovered thehand attachment will be found to be outof working position as shown in Fig 6 Pull the small spring stud 2 and turnthe handle back until leer 1 enters thesocket 3 Press back the hinged finger4 Fig 7 between the spokes of thewheel The machine is now ready forworking as shown in Fig 7
NOTE Before replacing the cover onthe machine in its case the levershould be disengaged and the handleplaced in the position shown in Fig 6
To Operate the Hand Machine
Place a piece of material under the presser foot Q Fig 5 and lower the latter bymeans of the lifter R Now turn the handle over from you to work the machinewithout being threaded until you are accustomed to guiding the material with theleft hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
If the Machine is Treadle Operated
Loosen the hand wheel by turning motion screw L Fig 16 over toward youplace both feet upon the treadle and turn the hand wheel over toward you at thesame time allowing the feet to move freely and lightly with the motion of thetreadle Continue to do this until a regular and easy movement is acquired andyou are able to work the treadle so that you can re-start the machine with thewheel turning toward you
When familiar with the working movement tighten the hand wheel by turning thestop motions screw over from you and place a piece of material under thepresser foot Q Fig 5 Lower the latter by means of the lifter and again work themachine without being threaded until you are accustomed to guiding thematerial
The belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Belt Shifter
This device simplifies throwing off andreplacing the belt To throw off the beltmove the belt shifter to the left (see Fig8) working the treadle at the sametime To replace the belt work thetreadle slowly with the hand wheelturning toward you when a revolutionsor tow of the wheel will bring the beltback into its place
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Class 99 amp 99K
Protection Against Rust Damage
Lint and fluff if not removed prior to storage will during humid periods absorband hold moisture and thus accelerate rust damage to highly polished threadhandling and other exposed parts The extend of rust damage would dependupon the length of time the machine remained in idle storage where there is noventilation Sudden drops in temperature till cause moisture to form on partswhich if not protected by a film of oil would rust and damage while in storage
Proper storage care suggests thorough brush-cleaning to remove all traces of lintand fluff followed by swabbing of all the exposed parts in Figs 10 and 11 with alint-free brush saturated with SINGER oil SINGER lint-free brush may bepurchased at your local SINGER dealer
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Oil the Machine and Stand
If the machine is used continuously it should be oiled daily If moderately used anoccasional oiling is sufficient Apply one drop of oil at teach of the places indicatedby the unlettered arrows in Figs 9 10 and 12 and carefully clean the machine toinsure smooth and satisfactory performance Oil holes are provided in the machinefor bearings which cannot be directly reached
Remove face plate D Fig 9 by taking out screw C and loosening screw E near thetop of the place Slip plate over screw E Oil the points indicated in Fig 10 andthen replace face plate D
Draw the slide to the left (as shown in Fig 9) and after removing the lint and dustwhich may have accumulated (see instructions on page 24) apply a drop of oil atthe place indicated at F Fig 11 The slide should then be closed
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Class 99 amp 99KTo oil the parts underneath the bed of the machine turn the machine back on itshinges and apply oil to the oil holes and bearings indicated inFig 12
To oil the stand apply a drop of oil to the centers upon which the band wheel andtreadle work and to both ends of the pitman rod connecting the treadle with theband wheel
After oiling run the machine rapidly for a few minutes so that the oil may reachthe bearings Neglect to oil the machine will shorten its life and cause youtrouble and annoyance
Always use SINGER oil Inferior oil clogs the bearings prevents efficientworking and causes rapid wear of the mechanism
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Class 99 amp 99K
Needles and Thread
For perfect stitching thread should be selected according to fabric to be stitchedand needle must be correct size for thread which must pass freely through eye ofthe needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Set the Needle
Select the correct needle according to the table on page 11 Be sure that theneedle is not blunt or bent Raise the needle bar to its highest position andloosen thumb screw H Fig 13 in needle clamp Push needle with its flat sidetoward the right up into needle clamp as far as it will go then tighten the thumbscrew H A screwdriver slot is provided for stronger clamping of needle requiredfor attachments driven from needle clamp hub
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Class 99 amp 99K
UPPER THREADING
See Fig 14 Place spool of thread onspool pin Raise take-up lever 5 to itshighest point Lead thread into threadguide 1 down and from right to leftbetween tension discs 2 into the loopof the take-up spring 3 under the slackthread regulator 4 (not through theeye in the thread regulator) up andfrom right to left through hole in take-uplever 5 down through guide 6 on theface plate down through the lower wireguide 7 from left to right through theeye of the needle 8
Draw about two inches of threadthrough the eye of the needle withwhich to begin to sew
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Remove the Bobbin
Raise needle to its highest point Draw slide plate to the left Press bobbinejector J Fig 15 to raise bobbin for easy removal
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Wind the Bobbin
Hold the hand wheel K Fig 16 with left hand and with right hand loosen stopmotion screw L to disengage stitching mechanism
Place empty bobbin on bobbin winder spindle see Fig 16 Turn bobbin until holein right side engages pin in spindle Press bobbin winder downward until latch MFig 17 engages In this position latch will hold bobbin in place
Place spool of thread on spool pin 1
Draw thread through guide 2 on arm of machine Lead thread from front to rearthrough lower notch of guide 3
Thread through O Fig 17 in left side of bobbin from inside The end of thethread must be held by hand until it is broken off by the rotation of the bobbin
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Class 99 amp 99K
Fig 17 shows bobbin winder in position for winding When sufficient thread hasbeen wound the winder is automatically released
Remove filled bobbin from bobbin winder spindle and re-tighten stop motionscrew L Fig 16
If thread does not wind evenly on bobbin loosen screw which holds thread guide3 Fig 16 Turn guide to left if bobbin winds high on right Turn guide to left isbobbin winds high on left When guide is properly centered thread will windevenly across bobbin Tighten guide clamping screw
If the pressure of bobbin winder pulley N Fig 17 against hub of hand wheel isinsufficient for winding the bobbin press down winder until latch M drops downand holds it then loosen screw P2 With the forefinger push back upper end ofslotted plate P1 as far as it will go and at the same time with the thumb presswinder against ledge of wheel Then tighten screw P2 securely Afterwardsraise latch to release winder from contact with hand wheel
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Class 99 amp99K
To Replace the Bobbin
Hold the bobbin between the thumband forefinger of the left hand with thethread leading on top from the righttoward the left as shown inFig 18 Place bobbin into the bobbin case anddraw the thread into the slot 1 Fig 19in the bobbin case as shown Draw the thread backward between thebobbin case and the tension spring untilit reaches the notch 2 Fig 20 then pullthe thread toward the right as shown inFig 20 When closing the slide place thread upthrough slot 3 Fig 21 as shown
FIG 18 Replacing the Bobbin
FIG 19 Threading the Bobbin Case
FIG 20 Bobbin Case Threaded FIG 21 Under Threading Completed
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Prepare for Sewing
Have the thread take-up lever at itshighest position With the left handhold the end of the needle threadleaving it slack from the hand to theneedle Turn the hand wheel over toward youuntil the needle moves down and upagain to its highest point thus catchingthe bobbin thread Draw up the needlethread and the bobbin thread will comeup with it through the hole in the throatplate as shown in Fig 22
Lay both threads back under thepresser foot diagonally across the feedto right or left depending upon whichside of the needle the material is to belocated so that when the presser foot islowered the threads will be firmly heldbetween the feed and the presser foot
Fig 22 Drawing Up the Under Thread
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Start Sewing
Be sure to have thread take-up lever 5Fig 14 at its highest position
Place the material beneath the presserfoot Q Fig 23 then turn the had wheelto bring the point of the needle into thematerial then lower the presser foot bymeans of presser bar lifter R and startto sew
Some materials such as soft finishedsheers nylons jerseys tricots andother elastic and sponge textilesrequire a slight amount of assistance infeeding during sewing operations
Fig 23 To Start Sewing
However too much pull will stretch the seam create irregular stitching and bendthe needle Most materials require only guiding for best sewing results
The machine will sew its own thread when sewing from one piece of material toanother However it is not recommended that any sewing be done with athreaded machine unless some fabric is under the presser foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Turn a Corner
Stop the machine when the needle eye making its upward stroke is still in thefabric Raise the presser foot and turn the work as desired using the needle as apivot then lower the presser foot and resume sewing
Basting
The longest stitch No 6 on the stitch indicator plate is satisfactory for bastingand is easily removed by clipping every sixth stitch and withdrawing the longcontinuous thread Machine basting is firmer more even and much quicker thanhand basting
To Sew Bias Seams
Use a short stitch when sewing bias or curved seams to increase the elasticity ofthe seam and to prevent seam failure under strain No change in tensions isrequired
To Remove the Work
Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever 5 Fig 14 at its highest point Raise the presser foot by means of presser bar lifter R Fig 23 draw the fabricback and to the left and sever the threads on thread cutter S Fig 23 Placeends of threads under presser foot
Caution When the machine is not in use raise the presser foot by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury to the presser foot and the feed T Fig 23
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Length of Stitch The machine is adjustable to makefrom 6 to 30 stitches per inch asindicated by the numerals on the stitchindicator plate
The red dot indicator U Fig 24 in theslot at the left indicates the stitchsetting To regulate the length of stitchturn thumb nut V Fig 24 on leveraway from the stitch indicator plate asfar as necessary Move the lever at Vuntil the red dot indicator U is at thedesired stitch setting Then turn thumbnut V inward until it touches indicatorplate The machine is not set to stitchthe desired number of stitches per inchin a forward direction
To Reverse the Direction of Feed
For Back Tacking raise the lever to theupper end of the indicator plate Themachine will then stitch in a reversedirection making it easy to fasten theends of seams
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Pressure on PresserFoot
For ordinary sewing the pressure ofthe presser foot on the material seldomrequires changing Heavy materialsrequire more pressure than light weightmaterials The pressure should be onlyheavy enough to prevent the materialfrom rising with the needle and toenable the feed to move the work alongevenly without side creeping Toincrease the pressure turn the thumbscrew W Fig 25 clockwise ordownward To lighten the pressureturn the thumb screw W so that itscrews upward
FIG 25 Thumb Screw for Regulating Pressureon Presser Foot
Thread Tension
For perfect stitching the tension on theneedle and bobbin threads must beheavy enough to pull the threads to thecenter of the thickness of the materialand make a firm stitch as shown in Fig26 If the needle lies straight along thetop side of the material the tension onthe needle thread is too heavy or thetension on the bobbin thread is toolight as shown in Fig 27 If the bobbinthread lies straight along the undersideof the material the tension on theneedle thread is too light or the tensionon the bobbin thread is too heavy asshown inFig 28
FIG 26 Perfect Stitching
FIG 27 Imperfect Stitching
FIG 28 Imperfect Stitching
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread canbe tested only when the presser foot isdown
The numerals 0 to 9 dial X Fig 29indicate the different degrees of tensionthat can be obtained The numbers donot denote size of thread or amount oftension
When the tension has been correctlyset note the number at the indicatorline Y Fig 29 so that this setting maybe regained should the tension bealtered for special work
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To increase tension turn the thumbnut Z Fig 29 gradually to the right(clockwise) until the required tension isobtained Each higher number denotesincreased tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
Table of Contents
Instructions forOperating the Machine Electrical InformationRemove and Replace Light BulbOperate ElectricallyOperate by HandTreadle OperationProtection Against Rust DamageTo Oil the Machine and StandNeedle Size ChartTo Set the NeedleUpper ThreadingTo Remove the BobbinTo Wind the BobbinTo Replace the BobbinTo Prepare for SewingTo Start SewingTo Turn a CornerBastingTo Sew Bias SeamsTo Remove the WorkTo Regulate Length of StitchTo Reverse the Direction of FeedTo Regulate Pressure on Presser FootThread TensionTo Regulate Needle Thread TensionTo Regulate Bobbin Thread TensionTo Adjust Needle amp Bobbin TensionsTo Remove Bobbin CaseTo Replace Bobbin CaseTo Replace Slide Plate Sewing SuggestionsThe BeltTo Avoid Breaking NeedlesBreaking of Needle ThreadBreaking of Bobbin ThreadSkipping of StitchesMachine Working Heavily
Instructions forUsing the Attachments The Foot HemmerHemmingHemmed SeamsHemming with Lace The BinderInserting the BindingAdjustment amp Operation of the BinderBinding Curved Edges The Gathering FootShirring The RufflerTo Adjust the RufflerTo Activate Parts of the RufflerGatheringForming amp Attaching a Ruffle in OneOperationPleatingGroup Pleating The Seam Guide The Zipper FootPreparationInserting a Skirt ZipperSewing Corded WeltingSewing Corded Seams Fashion AidsThe ButtonholerThe Blind StitcherThe Bias GaugeThe Edge-StitcherThe QuilterThe Adjustable HemmerThe TuckerDarning or Embroidering Singer Needles and Oil
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Class 99 amp 99KELECTRICAL INFORMATION
The Singer electric motor is located at the back of the machine and can besupplied for operation on alternating or direct current Orders must state thecatalogue number of the motor or the voltage and in the case of alternatingcurrent the number of cycles
Before inserting electrical plug be sure that voltage and number of cyclesstamped on motor nameplate are within range marked on electric meter installedby electric power company
Electrical Connections for Machine Push three-pin safety plug into three-pinterminal block at right of machine and connect plug at other end of cord toelectric supply point
Speed Controller The speed of machine is regulated by amount of pressure onfoot or knee controller
CAUTION When you have finished your sewing always disconnect theplug from the electric supply point
LIGHT
To turn light on reach over machine arm and turn switch V Fig 1 to right Toextinguish light turn switch to left
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Remove Bulb
Grasp light socket so that thumb extends over switch V Press shade with thumbat U to release shade from two catches and slide it halfway out of shade holderW Press bulb into socket and at same time turn bulb over from machine as faras it will go to unlock pin X (see Figs 3 and 4) Withdraw the bulb
To Insert New Bulb
Press bulb into socket and turn it over toward machine until pin X enters notch insocket (see Fig 3) Return shade to its normal position as shown in Fig 1
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Class 99 amp 99K
If the Machine is ElectricallyOperated
Raise presser foot Q by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury tothe foot Q and feed T
Place a piece of material under presserfoot and let the foot down upon it Turnon electric current and if thecombination knee and foot controller isinstalled as a knee controller pressknee lever to the right If controller isplaced on the floor to be used as a footcontroller press down on pedal ofcontroller The speed of the machine iscontrolled entirely by the amount ofpresser applied to the controller Operate machine in this way withoutbeing threaded until you have becomeaccustomed to guiding the material andoperating the controller
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Class 99 amp 99K
If the Machine is Hand Operated
When the machine is uncovered thehand attachment will be found to be outof working position as shown in Fig 6 Pull the small spring stud 2 and turnthe handle back until leer 1 enters thesocket 3 Press back the hinged finger4 Fig 7 between the spokes of thewheel The machine is now ready forworking as shown in Fig 7
NOTE Before replacing the cover onthe machine in its case the levershould be disengaged and the handleplaced in the position shown in Fig 6
To Operate the Hand Machine
Place a piece of material under the presser foot Q Fig 5 and lower the latter bymeans of the lifter R Now turn the handle over from you to work the machinewithout being threaded until you are accustomed to guiding the material with theleft hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
If the Machine is Treadle Operated
Loosen the hand wheel by turning motion screw L Fig 16 over toward youplace both feet upon the treadle and turn the hand wheel over toward you at thesame time allowing the feet to move freely and lightly with the motion of thetreadle Continue to do this until a regular and easy movement is acquired andyou are able to work the treadle so that you can re-start the machine with thewheel turning toward you
When familiar with the working movement tighten the hand wheel by turning thestop motions screw over from you and place a piece of material under thepresser foot Q Fig 5 Lower the latter by means of the lifter and again work themachine without being threaded until you are accustomed to guiding thematerial
The belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Belt Shifter
This device simplifies throwing off andreplacing the belt To throw off the beltmove the belt shifter to the left (see Fig8) working the treadle at the sametime To replace the belt work thetreadle slowly with the hand wheelturning toward you when a revolutionsor tow of the wheel will bring the beltback into its place
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Class 99 amp 99K
Protection Against Rust Damage
Lint and fluff if not removed prior to storage will during humid periods absorband hold moisture and thus accelerate rust damage to highly polished threadhandling and other exposed parts The extend of rust damage would dependupon the length of time the machine remained in idle storage where there is noventilation Sudden drops in temperature till cause moisture to form on partswhich if not protected by a film of oil would rust and damage while in storage
Proper storage care suggests thorough brush-cleaning to remove all traces of lintand fluff followed by swabbing of all the exposed parts in Figs 10 and 11 with alint-free brush saturated with SINGER oil SINGER lint-free brush may bepurchased at your local SINGER dealer
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Oil the Machine and Stand
If the machine is used continuously it should be oiled daily If moderately used anoccasional oiling is sufficient Apply one drop of oil at teach of the places indicatedby the unlettered arrows in Figs 9 10 and 12 and carefully clean the machine toinsure smooth and satisfactory performance Oil holes are provided in the machinefor bearings which cannot be directly reached
Remove face plate D Fig 9 by taking out screw C and loosening screw E near thetop of the place Slip plate over screw E Oil the points indicated in Fig 10 andthen replace face plate D
Draw the slide to the left (as shown in Fig 9) and after removing the lint and dustwhich may have accumulated (see instructions on page 24) apply a drop of oil atthe place indicated at F Fig 11 The slide should then be closed
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Class 99 amp 99KTo oil the parts underneath the bed of the machine turn the machine back on itshinges and apply oil to the oil holes and bearings indicated inFig 12
To oil the stand apply a drop of oil to the centers upon which the band wheel andtreadle work and to both ends of the pitman rod connecting the treadle with theband wheel
After oiling run the machine rapidly for a few minutes so that the oil may reachthe bearings Neglect to oil the machine will shorten its life and cause youtrouble and annoyance
Always use SINGER oil Inferior oil clogs the bearings prevents efficientworking and causes rapid wear of the mechanism
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Class 99 amp 99K
Needles and Thread
For perfect stitching thread should be selected according to fabric to be stitchedand needle must be correct size for thread which must pass freely through eye ofthe needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Set the Needle
Select the correct needle according to the table on page 11 Be sure that theneedle is not blunt or bent Raise the needle bar to its highest position andloosen thumb screw H Fig 13 in needle clamp Push needle with its flat sidetoward the right up into needle clamp as far as it will go then tighten the thumbscrew H A screwdriver slot is provided for stronger clamping of needle requiredfor attachments driven from needle clamp hub
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Class 99 amp 99K
UPPER THREADING
See Fig 14 Place spool of thread onspool pin Raise take-up lever 5 to itshighest point Lead thread into threadguide 1 down and from right to leftbetween tension discs 2 into the loopof the take-up spring 3 under the slackthread regulator 4 (not through theeye in the thread regulator) up andfrom right to left through hole in take-uplever 5 down through guide 6 on theface plate down through the lower wireguide 7 from left to right through theeye of the needle 8
Draw about two inches of threadthrough the eye of the needle withwhich to begin to sew
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Remove the Bobbin
Raise needle to its highest point Draw slide plate to the left Press bobbinejector J Fig 15 to raise bobbin for easy removal
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Wind the Bobbin
Hold the hand wheel K Fig 16 with left hand and with right hand loosen stopmotion screw L to disengage stitching mechanism
Place empty bobbin on bobbin winder spindle see Fig 16 Turn bobbin until holein right side engages pin in spindle Press bobbin winder downward until latch MFig 17 engages In this position latch will hold bobbin in place
Place spool of thread on spool pin 1
Draw thread through guide 2 on arm of machine Lead thread from front to rearthrough lower notch of guide 3
Thread through O Fig 17 in left side of bobbin from inside The end of thethread must be held by hand until it is broken off by the rotation of the bobbin
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Class 99 amp 99K
Fig 17 shows bobbin winder in position for winding When sufficient thread hasbeen wound the winder is automatically released
Remove filled bobbin from bobbin winder spindle and re-tighten stop motionscrew L Fig 16
If thread does not wind evenly on bobbin loosen screw which holds thread guide3 Fig 16 Turn guide to left if bobbin winds high on right Turn guide to left isbobbin winds high on left When guide is properly centered thread will windevenly across bobbin Tighten guide clamping screw
If the pressure of bobbin winder pulley N Fig 17 against hub of hand wheel isinsufficient for winding the bobbin press down winder until latch M drops downand holds it then loosen screw P2 With the forefinger push back upper end ofslotted plate P1 as far as it will go and at the same time with the thumb presswinder against ledge of wheel Then tighten screw P2 securely Afterwardsraise latch to release winder from contact with hand wheel
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Class 99 amp99K
To Replace the Bobbin
Hold the bobbin between the thumband forefinger of the left hand with thethread leading on top from the righttoward the left as shown inFig 18 Place bobbin into the bobbin case anddraw the thread into the slot 1 Fig 19in the bobbin case as shown Draw the thread backward between thebobbin case and the tension spring untilit reaches the notch 2 Fig 20 then pullthe thread toward the right as shown inFig 20 When closing the slide place thread upthrough slot 3 Fig 21 as shown
FIG 18 Replacing the Bobbin
FIG 19 Threading the Bobbin Case
FIG 20 Bobbin Case Threaded FIG 21 Under Threading Completed
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Prepare for Sewing
Have the thread take-up lever at itshighest position With the left handhold the end of the needle threadleaving it slack from the hand to theneedle Turn the hand wheel over toward youuntil the needle moves down and upagain to its highest point thus catchingthe bobbin thread Draw up the needlethread and the bobbin thread will comeup with it through the hole in the throatplate as shown in Fig 22
Lay both threads back under thepresser foot diagonally across the feedto right or left depending upon whichside of the needle the material is to belocated so that when the presser foot islowered the threads will be firmly heldbetween the feed and the presser foot
Fig 22 Drawing Up the Under Thread
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Start Sewing
Be sure to have thread take-up lever 5Fig 14 at its highest position
Place the material beneath the presserfoot Q Fig 23 then turn the had wheelto bring the point of the needle into thematerial then lower the presser foot bymeans of presser bar lifter R and startto sew
Some materials such as soft finishedsheers nylons jerseys tricots andother elastic and sponge textilesrequire a slight amount of assistance infeeding during sewing operations
Fig 23 To Start Sewing
However too much pull will stretch the seam create irregular stitching and bendthe needle Most materials require only guiding for best sewing results
The machine will sew its own thread when sewing from one piece of material toanother However it is not recommended that any sewing be done with athreaded machine unless some fabric is under the presser foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Turn a Corner
Stop the machine when the needle eye making its upward stroke is still in thefabric Raise the presser foot and turn the work as desired using the needle as apivot then lower the presser foot and resume sewing
Basting
The longest stitch No 6 on the stitch indicator plate is satisfactory for bastingand is easily removed by clipping every sixth stitch and withdrawing the longcontinuous thread Machine basting is firmer more even and much quicker thanhand basting
To Sew Bias Seams
Use a short stitch when sewing bias or curved seams to increase the elasticity ofthe seam and to prevent seam failure under strain No change in tensions isrequired
To Remove the Work
Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever 5 Fig 14 at its highest point Raise the presser foot by means of presser bar lifter R Fig 23 draw the fabricback and to the left and sever the threads on thread cutter S Fig 23 Placeends of threads under presser foot
Caution When the machine is not in use raise the presser foot by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury to the presser foot and the feed T Fig 23
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Length of Stitch The machine is adjustable to makefrom 6 to 30 stitches per inch asindicated by the numerals on the stitchindicator plate
The red dot indicator U Fig 24 in theslot at the left indicates the stitchsetting To regulate the length of stitchturn thumb nut V Fig 24 on leveraway from the stitch indicator plate asfar as necessary Move the lever at Vuntil the red dot indicator U is at thedesired stitch setting Then turn thumbnut V inward until it touches indicatorplate The machine is not set to stitchthe desired number of stitches per inchin a forward direction
To Reverse the Direction of Feed
For Back Tacking raise the lever to theupper end of the indicator plate Themachine will then stitch in a reversedirection making it easy to fasten theends of seams
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Pressure on PresserFoot
For ordinary sewing the pressure ofthe presser foot on the material seldomrequires changing Heavy materialsrequire more pressure than light weightmaterials The pressure should be onlyheavy enough to prevent the materialfrom rising with the needle and toenable the feed to move the work alongevenly without side creeping Toincrease the pressure turn the thumbscrew W Fig 25 clockwise ordownward To lighten the pressureturn the thumb screw W so that itscrews upward
FIG 25 Thumb Screw for Regulating Pressureon Presser Foot
Thread Tension
For perfect stitching the tension on theneedle and bobbin threads must beheavy enough to pull the threads to thecenter of the thickness of the materialand make a firm stitch as shown in Fig26 If the needle lies straight along thetop side of the material the tension onthe needle thread is too heavy or thetension on the bobbin thread is toolight as shown in Fig 27 If the bobbinthread lies straight along the undersideof the material the tension on theneedle thread is too light or the tensionon the bobbin thread is too heavy asshown inFig 28
FIG 26 Perfect Stitching
FIG 27 Imperfect Stitching
FIG 28 Imperfect Stitching
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread canbe tested only when the presser foot isdown
The numerals 0 to 9 dial X Fig 29indicate the different degrees of tensionthat can be obtained The numbers donot denote size of thread or amount oftension
When the tension has been correctlyset note the number at the indicatorline Y Fig 29 so that this setting maybe regained should the tension bealtered for special work
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To increase tension turn the thumbnut Z Fig 29 gradually to the right(clockwise) until the required tension isobtained Each higher number denotesincreased tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99KELECTRICAL INFORMATION
The Singer electric motor is located at the back of the machine and can besupplied for operation on alternating or direct current Orders must state thecatalogue number of the motor or the voltage and in the case of alternatingcurrent the number of cycles
Before inserting electrical plug be sure that voltage and number of cyclesstamped on motor nameplate are within range marked on electric meter installedby electric power company
Electrical Connections for Machine Push three-pin safety plug into three-pinterminal block at right of machine and connect plug at other end of cord toelectric supply point
Speed Controller The speed of machine is regulated by amount of pressure onfoot or knee controller
CAUTION When you have finished your sewing always disconnect theplug from the electric supply point
LIGHT
To turn light on reach over machine arm and turn switch V Fig 1 to right Toextinguish light turn switch to left
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Remove Bulb
Grasp light socket so that thumb extends over switch V Press shade with thumbat U to release shade from two catches and slide it halfway out of shade holderW Press bulb into socket and at same time turn bulb over from machine as faras it will go to unlock pin X (see Figs 3 and 4) Withdraw the bulb
To Insert New Bulb
Press bulb into socket and turn it over toward machine until pin X enters notch insocket (see Fig 3) Return shade to its normal position as shown in Fig 1
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Class 99 amp 99K
If the Machine is ElectricallyOperated
Raise presser foot Q by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury tothe foot Q and feed T
Place a piece of material under presserfoot and let the foot down upon it Turnon electric current and if thecombination knee and foot controller isinstalled as a knee controller pressknee lever to the right If controller isplaced on the floor to be used as a footcontroller press down on pedal ofcontroller The speed of the machine iscontrolled entirely by the amount ofpresser applied to the controller Operate machine in this way withoutbeing threaded until you have becomeaccustomed to guiding the material andoperating the controller
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Class 99 amp 99K
If the Machine is Hand Operated
When the machine is uncovered thehand attachment will be found to be outof working position as shown in Fig 6 Pull the small spring stud 2 and turnthe handle back until leer 1 enters thesocket 3 Press back the hinged finger4 Fig 7 between the spokes of thewheel The machine is now ready forworking as shown in Fig 7
NOTE Before replacing the cover onthe machine in its case the levershould be disengaged and the handleplaced in the position shown in Fig 6
To Operate the Hand Machine
Place a piece of material under the presser foot Q Fig 5 and lower the latter bymeans of the lifter R Now turn the handle over from you to work the machinewithout being threaded until you are accustomed to guiding the material with theleft hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
If the Machine is Treadle Operated
Loosen the hand wheel by turning motion screw L Fig 16 over toward youplace both feet upon the treadle and turn the hand wheel over toward you at thesame time allowing the feet to move freely and lightly with the motion of thetreadle Continue to do this until a regular and easy movement is acquired andyou are able to work the treadle so that you can re-start the machine with thewheel turning toward you
When familiar with the working movement tighten the hand wheel by turning thestop motions screw over from you and place a piece of material under thepresser foot Q Fig 5 Lower the latter by means of the lifter and again work themachine without being threaded until you are accustomed to guiding thematerial
The belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Belt Shifter
This device simplifies throwing off andreplacing the belt To throw off the beltmove the belt shifter to the left (see Fig8) working the treadle at the sametime To replace the belt work thetreadle slowly with the hand wheelturning toward you when a revolutionsor tow of the wheel will bring the beltback into its place
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Class 99 amp 99K
Protection Against Rust Damage
Lint and fluff if not removed prior to storage will during humid periods absorband hold moisture and thus accelerate rust damage to highly polished threadhandling and other exposed parts The extend of rust damage would dependupon the length of time the machine remained in idle storage where there is noventilation Sudden drops in temperature till cause moisture to form on partswhich if not protected by a film of oil would rust and damage while in storage
Proper storage care suggests thorough brush-cleaning to remove all traces of lintand fluff followed by swabbing of all the exposed parts in Figs 10 and 11 with alint-free brush saturated with SINGER oil SINGER lint-free brush may bepurchased at your local SINGER dealer
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Oil the Machine and Stand
If the machine is used continuously it should be oiled daily If moderately used anoccasional oiling is sufficient Apply one drop of oil at teach of the places indicatedby the unlettered arrows in Figs 9 10 and 12 and carefully clean the machine toinsure smooth and satisfactory performance Oil holes are provided in the machinefor bearings which cannot be directly reached
Remove face plate D Fig 9 by taking out screw C and loosening screw E near thetop of the place Slip plate over screw E Oil the points indicated in Fig 10 andthen replace face plate D
Draw the slide to the left (as shown in Fig 9) and after removing the lint and dustwhich may have accumulated (see instructions on page 24) apply a drop of oil atthe place indicated at F Fig 11 The slide should then be closed
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Class 99 amp 99KTo oil the parts underneath the bed of the machine turn the machine back on itshinges and apply oil to the oil holes and bearings indicated inFig 12
To oil the stand apply a drop of oil to the centers upon which the band wheel andtreadle work and to both ends of the pitman rod connecting the treadle with theband wheel
After oiling run the machine rapidly for a few minutes so that the oil may reachthe bearings Neglect to oil the machine will shorten its life and cause youtrouble and annoyance
Always use SINGER oil Inferior oil clogs the bearings prevents efficientworking and causes rapid wear of the mechanism
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Class 99 amp 99K
Needles and Thread
For perfect stitching thread should be selected according to fabric to be stitchedand needle must be correct size for thread which must pass freely through eye ofthe needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Set the Needle
Select the correct needle according to the table on page 11 Be sure that theneedle is not blunt or bent Raise the needle bar to its highest position andloosen thumb screw H Fig 13 in needle clamp Push needle with its flat sidetoward the right up into needle clamp as far as it will go then tighten the thumbscrew H A screwdriver slot is provided for stronger clamping of needle requiredfor attachments driven from needle clamp hub
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Class 99 amp 99K
UPPER THREADING
See Fig 14 Place spool of thread onspool pin Raise take-up lever 5 to itshighest point Lead thread into threadguide 1 down and from right to leftbetween tension discs 2 into the loopof the take-up spring 3 under the slackthread regulator 4 (not through theeye in the thread regulator) up andfrom right to left through hole in take-uplever 5 down through guide 6 on theface plate down through the lower wireguide 7 from left to right through theeye of the needle 8
Draw about two inches of threadthrough the eye of the needle withwhich to begin to sew
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Remove the Bobbin
Raise needle to its highest point Draw slide plate to the left Press bobbinejector J Fig 15 to raise bobbin for easy removal
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Wind the Bobbin
Hold the hand wheel K Fig 16 with left hand and with right hand loosen stopmotion screw L to disengage stitching mechanism
Place empty bobbin on bobbin winder spindle see Fig 16 Turn bobbin until holein right side engages pin in spindle Press bobbin winder downward until latch MFig 17 engages In this position latch will hold bobbin in place
Place spool of thread on spool pin 1
Draw thread through guide 2 on arm of machine Lead thread from front to rearthrough lower notch of guide 3
Thread through O Fig 17 in left side of bobbin from inside The end of thethread must be held by hand until it is broken off by the rotation of the bobbin
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Class 99 amp 99K
Fig 17 shows bobbin winder in position for winding When sufficient thread hasbeen wound the winder is automatically released
Remove filled bobbin from bobbin winder spindle and re-tighten stop motionscrew L Fig 16
If thread does not wind evenly on bobbin loosen screw which holds thread guide3 Fig 16 Turn guide to left if bobbin winds high on right Turn guide to left isbobbin winds high on left When guide is properly centered thread will windevenly across bobbin Tighten guide clamping screw
If the pressure of bobbin winder pulley N Fig 17 against hub of hand wheel isinsufficient for winding the bobbin press down winder until latch M drops downand holds it then loosen screw P2 With the forefinger push back upper end ofslotted plate P1 as far as it will go and at the same time with the thumb presswinder against ledge of wheel Then tighten screw P2 securely Afterwardsraise latch to release winder from contact with hand wheel
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Class 99 amp99K
To Replace the Bobbin
Hold the bobbin between the thumband forefinger of the left hand with thethread leading on top from the righttoward the left as shown inFig 18 Place bobbin into the bobbin case anddraw the thread into the slot 1 Fig 19in the bobbin case as shown Draw the thread backward between thebobbin case and the tension spring untilit reaches the notch 2 Fig 20 then pullthe thread toward the right as shown inFig 20 When closing the slide place thread upthrough slot 3 Fig 21 as shown
FIG 18 Replacing the Bobbin
FIG 19 Threading the Bobbin Case
FIG 20 Bobbin Case Threaded FIG 21 Under Threading Completed
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Prepare for Sewing
Have the thread take-up lever at itshighest position With the left handhold the end of the needle threadleaving it slack from the hand to theneedle Turn the hand wheel over toward youuntil the needle moves down and upagain to its highest point thus catchingthe bobbin thread Draw up the needlethread and the bobbin thread will comeup with it through the hole in the throatplate as shown in Fig 22
Lay both threads back under thepresser foot diagonally across the feedto right or left depending upon whichside of the needle the material is to belocated so that when the presser foot islowered the threads will be firmly heldbetween the feed and the presser foot
Fig 22 Drawing Up the Under Thread
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Start Sewing
Be sure to have thread take-up lever 5Fig 14 at its highest position
Place the material beneath the presserfoot Q Fig 23 then turn the had wheelto bring the point of the needle into thematerial then lower the presser foot bymeans of presser bar lifter R and startto sew
Some materials such as soft finishedsheers nylons jerseys tricots andother elastic and sponge textilesrequire a slight amount of assistance infeeding during sewing operations
Fig 23 To Start Sewing
However too much pull will stretch the seam create irregular stitching and bendthe needle Most materials require only guiding for best sewing results
The machine will sew its own thread when sewing from one piece of material toanother However it is not recommended that any sewing be done with athreaded machine unless some fabric is under the presser foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Turn a Corner
Stop the machine when the needle eye making its upward stroke is still in thefabric Raise the presser foot and turn the work as desired using the needle as apivot then lower the presser foot and resume sewing
Basting
The longest stitch No 6 on the stitch indicator plate is satisfactory for bastingand is easily removed by clipping every sixth stitch and withdrawing the longcontinuous thread Machine basting is firmer more even and much quicker thanhand basting
To Sew Bias Seams
Use a short stitch when sewing bias or curved seams to increase the elasticity ofthe seam and to prevent seam failure under strain No change in tensions isrequired
To Remove the Work
Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever 5 Fig 14 at its highest point Raise the presser foot by means of presser bar lifter R Fig 23 draw the fabricback and to the left and sever the threads on thread cutter S Fig 23 Placeends of threads under presser foot
Caution When the machine is not in use raise the presser foot by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury to the presser foot and the feed T Fig 23
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Length of Stitch The machine is adjustable to makefrom 6 to 30 stitches per inch asindicated by the numerals on the stitchindicator plate
The red dot indicator U Fig 24 in theslot at the left indicates the stitchsetting To regulate the length of stitchturn thumb nut V Fig 24 on leveraway from the stitch indicator plate asfar as necessary Move the lever at Vuntil the red dot indicator U is at thedesired stitch setting Then turn thumbnut V inward until it touches indicatorplate The machine is not set to stitchthe desired number of stitches per inchin a forward direction
To Reverse the Direction of Feed
For Back Tacking raise the lever to theupper end of the indicator plate Themachine will then stitch in a reversedirection making it easy to fasten theends of seams
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Pressure on PresserFoot
For ordinary sewing the pressure ofthe presser foot on the material seldomrequires changing Heavy materialsrequire more pressure than light weightmaterials The pressure should be onlyheavy enough to prevent the materialfrom rising with the needle and toenable the feed to move the work alongevenly without side creeping Toincrease the pressure turn the thumbscrew W Fig 25 clockwise ordownward To lighten the pressureturn the thumb screw W so that itscrews upward
FIG 25 Thumb Screw for Regulating Pressureon Presser Foot
Thread Tension
For perfect stitching the tension on theneedle and bobbin threads must beheavy enough to pull the threads to thecenter of the thickness of the materialand make a firm stitch as shown in Fig26 If the needle lies straight along thetop side of the material the tension onthe needle thread is too heavy or thetension on the bobbin thread is toolight as shown in Fig 27 If the bobbinthread lies straight along the undersideof the material the tension on theneedle thread is too light or the tensionon the bobbin thread is too heavy asshown inFig 28
FIG 26 Perfect Stitching
FIG 27 Imperfect Stitching
FIG 28 Imperfect Stitching
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread canbe tested only when the presser foot isdown
The numerals 0 to 9 dial X Fig 29indicate the different degrees of tensionthat can be obtained The numbers donot denote size of thread or amount oftension
When the tension has been correctlyset note the number at the indicatorline Y Fig 29 so that this setting maybe regained should the tension bealtered for special work
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To increase tension turn the thumbnut Z Fig 29 gradually to the right(clockwise) until the required tension isobtained Each higher number denotesincreased tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Remove Bulb
Grasp light socket so that thumb extends over switch V Press shade with thumbat U to release shade from two catches and slide it halfway out of shade holderW Press bulb into socket and at same time turn bulb over from machine as faras it will go to unlock pin X (see Figs 3 and 4) Withdraw the bulb
To Insert New Bulb
Press bulb into socket and turn it over toward machine until pin X enters notch insocket (see Fig 3) Return shade to its normal position as shown in Fig 1
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Class 99 amp 99K
If the Machine is ElectricallyOperated
Raise presser foot Q by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury tothe foot Q and feed T
Place a piece of material under presserfoot and let the foot down upon it Turnon electric current and if thecombination knee and foot controller isinstalled as a knee controller pressknee lever to the right If controller isplaced on the floor to be used as a footcontroller press down on pedal ofcontroller The speed of the machine iscontrolled entirely by the amount ofpresser applied to the controller Operate machine in this way withoutbeing threaded until you have becomeaccustomed to guiding the material andoperating the controller
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Class 99 amp 99K
If the Machine is Hand Operated
When the machine is uncovered thehand attachment will be found to be outof working position as shown in Fig 6 Pull the small spring stud 2 and turnthe handle back until leer 1 enters thesocket 3 Press back the hinged finger4 Fig 7 between the spokes of thewheel The machine is now ready forworking as shown in Fig 7
NOTE Before replacing the cover onthe machine in its case the levershould be disengaged and the handleplaced in the position shown in Fig 6
To Operate the Hand Machine
Place a piece of material under the presser foot Q Fig 5 and lower the latter bymeans of the lifter R Now turn the handle over from you to work the machinewithout being threaded until you are accustomed to guiding the material with theleft hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
If the Machine is Treadle Operated
Loosen the hand wheel by turning motion screw L Fig 16 over toward youplace both feet upon the treadle and turn the hand wheel over toward you at thesame time allowing the feet to move freely and lightly with the motion of thetreadle Continue to do this until a regular and easy movement is acquired andyou are able to work the treadle so that you can re-start the machine with thewheel turning toward you
When familiar with the working movement tighten the hand wheel by turning thestop motions screw over from you and place a piece of material under thepresser foot Q Fig 5 Lower the latter by means of the lifter and again work themachine without being threaded until you are accustomed to guiding thematerial
The belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Belt Shifter
This device simplifies throwing off andreplacing the belt To throw off the beltmove the belt shifter to the left (see Fig8) working the treadle at the sametime To replace the belt work thetreadle slowly with the hand wheelturning toward you when a revolutionsor tow of the wheel will bring the beltback into its place
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Class 99 amp 99K
Protection Against Rust Damage
Lint and fluff if not removed prior to storage will during humid periods absorband hold moisture and thus accelerate rust damage to highly polished threadhandling and other exposed parts The extend of rust damage would dependupon the length of time the machine remained in idle storage where there is noventilation Sudden drops in temperature till cause moisture to form on partswhich if not protected by a film of oil would rust and damage while in storage
Proper storage care suggests thorough brush-cleaning to remove all traces of lintand fluff followed by swabbing of all the exposed parts in Figs 10 and 11 with alint-free brush saturated with SINGER oil SINGER lint-free brush may bepurchased at your local SINGER dealer
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Oil the Machine and Stand
If the machine is used continuously it should be oiled daily If moderately used anoccasional oiling is sufficient Apply one drop of oil at teach of the places indicatedby the unlettered arrows in Figs 9 10 and 12 and carefully clean the machine toinsure smooth and satisfactory performance Oil holes are provided in the machinefor bearings which cannot be directly reached
Remove face plate D Fig 9 by taking out screw C and loosening screw E near thetop of the place Slip plate over screw E Oil the points indicated in Fig 10 andthen replace face plate D
Draw the slide to the left (as shown in Fig 9) and after removing the lint and dustwhich may have accumulated (see instructions on page 24) apply a drop of oil atthe place indicated at F Fig 11 The slide should then be closed
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Class 99 amp 99KTo oil the parts underneath the bed of the machine turn the machine back on itshinges and apply oil to the oil holes and bearings indicated inFig 12
To oil the stand apply a drop of oil to the centers upon which the band wheel andtreadle work and to both ends of the pitman rod connecting the treadle with theband wheel
After oiling run the machine rapidly for a few minutes so that the oil may reachthe bearings Neglect to oil the machine will shorten its life and cause youtrouble and annoyance
Always use SINGER oil Inferior oil clogs the bearings prevents efficientworking and causes rapid wear of the mechanism
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Class 99 amp 99K
Needles and Thread
For perfect stitching thread should be selected according to fabric to be stitchedand needle must be correct size for thread which must pass freely through eye ofthe needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Set the Needle
Select the correct needle according to the table on page 11 Be sure that theneedle is not blunt or bent Raise the needle bar to its highest position andloosen thumb screw H Fig 13 in needle clamp Push needle with its flat sidetoward the right up into needle clamp as far as it will go then tighten the thumbscrew H A screwdriver slot is provided for stronger clamping of needle requiredfor attachments driven from needle clamp hub
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Class 99 amp 99K
UPPER THREADING
See Fig 14 Place spool of thread onspool pin Raise take-up lever 5 to itshighest point Lead thread into threadguide 1 down and from right to leftbetween tension discs 2 into the loopof the take-up spring 3 under the slackthread regulator 4 (not through theeye in the thread regulator) up andfrom right to left through hole in take-uplever 5 down through guide 6 on theface plate down through the lower wireguide 7 from left to right through theeye of the needle 8
Draw about two inches of threadthrough the eye of the needle withwhich to begin to sew
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Remove the Bobbin
Raise needle to its highest point Draw slide plate to the left Press bobbinejector J Fig 15 to raise bobbin for easy removal
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Wind the Bobbin
Hold the hand wheel K Fig 16 with left hand and with right hand loosen stopmotion screw L to disengage stitching mechanism
Place empty bobbin on bobbin winder spindle see Fig 16 Turn bobbin until holein right side engages pin in spindle Press bobbin winder downward until latch MFig 17 engages In this position latch will hold bobbin in place
Place spool of thread on spool pin 1
Draw thread through guide 2 on arm of machine Lead thread from front to rearthrough lower notch of guide 3
Thread through O Fig 17 in left side of bobbin from inside The end of thethread must be held by hand until it is broken off by the rotation of the bobbin
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Class 99 amp 99K
Fig 17 shows bobbin winder in position for winding When sufficient thread hasbeen wound the winder is automatically released
Remove filled bobbin from bobbin winder spindle and re-tighten stop motionscrew L Fig 16
If thread does not wind evenly on bobbin loosen screw which holds thread guide3 Fig 16 Turn guide to left if bobbin winds high on right Turn guide to left isbobbin winds high on left When guide is properly centered thread will windevenly across bobbin Tighten guide clamping screw
If the pressure of bobbin winder pulley N Fig 17 against hub of hand wheel isinsufficient for winding the bobbin press down winder until latch M drops downand holds it then loosen screw P2 With the forefinger push back upper end ofslotted plate P1 as far as it will go and at the same time with the thumb presswinder against ledge of wheel Then tighten screw P2 securely Afterwardsraise latch to release winder from contact with hand wheel
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Class 99 amp99K
To Replace the Bobbin
Hold the bobbin between the thumband forefinger of the left hand with thethread leading on top from the righttoward the left as shown inFig 18 Place bobbin into the bobbin case anddraw the thread into the slot 1 Fig 19in the bobbin case as shown Draw the thread backward between thebobbin case and the tension spring untilit reaches the notch 2 Fig 20 then pullthe thread toward the right as shown inFig 20 When closing the slide place thread upthrough slot 3 Fig 21 as shown
FIG 18 Replacing the Bobbin
FIG 19 Threading the Bobbin Case
FIG 20 Bobbin Case Threaded FIG 21 Under Threading Completed
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Prepare for Sewing
Have the thread take-up lever at itshighest position With the left handhold the end of the needle threadleaving it slack from the hand to theneedle Turn the hand wheel over toward youuntil the needle moves down and upagain to its highest point thus catchingthe bobbin thread Draw up the needlethread and the bobbin thread will comeup with it through the hole in the throatplate as shown in Fig 22
Lay both threads back under thepresser foot diagonally across the feedto right or left depending upon whichside of the needle the material is to belocated so that when the presser foot islowered the threads will be firmly heldbetween the feed and the presser foot
Fig 22 Drawing Up the Under Thread
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Start Sewing
Be sure to have thread take-up lever 5Fig 14 at its highest position
Place the material beneath the presserfoot Q Fig 23 then turn the had wheelto bring the point of the needle into thematerial then lower the presser foot bymeans of presser bar lifter R and startto sew
Some materials such as soft finishedsheers nylons jerseys tricots andother elastic and sponge textilesrequire a slight amount of assistance infeeding during sewing operations
Fig 23 To Start Sewing
However too much pull will stretch the seam create irregular stitching and bendthe needle Most materials require only guiding for best sewing results
The machine will sew its own thread when sewing from one piece of material toanother However it is not recommended that any sewing be done with athreaded machine unless some fabric is under the presser foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Turn a Corner
Stop the machine when the needle eye making its upward stroke is still in thefabric Raise the presser foot and turn the work as desired using the needle as apivot then lower the presser foot and resume sewing
Basting
The longest stitch No 6 on the stitch indicator plate is satisfactory for bastingand is easily removed by clipping every sixth stitch and withdrawing the longcontinuous thread Machine basting is firmer more even and much quicker thanhand basting
To Sew Bias Seams
Use a short stitch when sewing bias or curved seams to increase the elasticity ofthe seam and to prevent seam failure under strain No change in tensions isrequired
To Remove the Work
Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever 5 Fig 14 at its highest point Raise the presser foot by means of presser bar lifter R Fig 23 draw the fabricback and to the left and sever the threads on thread cutter S Fig 23 Placeends of threads under presser foot
Caution When the machine is not in use raise the presser foot by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury to the presser foot and the feed T Fig 23
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Length of Stitch The machine is adjustable to makefrom 6 to 30 stitches per inch asindicated by the numerals on the stitchindicator plate
The red dot indicator U Fig 24 in theslot at the left indicates the stitchsetting To regulate the length of stitchturn thumb nut V Fig 24 on leveraway from the stitch indicator plate asfar as necessary Move the lever at Vuntil the red dot indicator U is at thedesired stitch setting Then turn thumbnut V inward until it touches indicatorplate The machine is not set to stitchthe desired number of stitches per inchin a forward direction
To Reverse the Direction of Feed
For Back Tacking raise the lever to theupper end of the indicator plate Themachine will then stitch in a reversedirection making it easy to fasten theends of seams
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Pressure on PresserFoot
For ordinary sewing the pressure ofthe presser foot on the material seldomrequires changing Heavy materialsrequire more pressure than light weightmaterials The pressure should be onlyheavy enough to prevent the materialfrom rising with the needle and toenable the feed to move the work alongevenly without side creeping Toincrease the pressure turn the thumbscrew W Fig 25 clockwise ordownward To lighten the pressureturn the thumb screw W so that itscrews upward
FIG 25 Thumb Screw for Regulating Pressureon Presser Foot
Thread Tension
For perfect stitching the tension on theneedle and bobbin threads must beheavy enough to pull the threads to thecenter of the thickness of the materialand make a firm stitch as shown in Fig26 If the needle lies straight along thetop side of the material the tension onthe needle thread is too heavy or thetension on the bobbin thread is toolight as shown in Fig 27 If the bobbinthread lies straight along the undersideof the material the tension on theneedle thread is too light or the tensionon the bobbin thread is too heavy asshown inFig 28
FIG 26 Perfect Stitching
FIG 27 Imperfect Stitching
FIG 28 Imperfect Stitching
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread canbe tested only when the presser foot isdown
The numerals 0 to 9 dial X Fig 29indicate the different degrees of tensionthat can be obtained The numbers donot denote size of thread or amount oftension
When the tension has been correctlyset note the number at the indicatorline Y Fig 29 so that this setting maybe regained should the tension bealtered for special work
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To increase tension turn the thumbnut Z Fig 29 gradually to the right(clockwise) until the required tension isobtained Each higher number denotesincreased tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
If the Machine is ElectricallyOperated
Raise presser foot Q by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury tothe foot Q and feed T
Place a piece of material under presserfoot and let the foot down upon it Turnon electric current and if thecombination knee and foot controller isinstalled as a knee controller pressknee lever to the right If controller isplaced on the floor to be used as a footcontroller press down on pedal ofcontroller The speed of the machine iscontrolled entirely by the amount ofpresser applied to the controller Operate machine in this way withoutbeing threaded until you have becomeaccustomed to guiding the material andoperating the controller
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Class 99 amp 99K
If the Machine is Hand Operated
When the machine is uncovered thehand attachment will be found to be outof working position as shown in Fig 6 Pull the small spring stud 2 and turnthe handle back until leer 1 enters thesocket 3 Press back the hinged finger4 Fig 7 between the spokes of thewheel The machine is now ready forworking as shown in Fig 7
NOTE Before replacing the cover onthe machine in its case the levershould be disengaged and the handleplaced in the position shown in Fig 6
To Operate the Hand Machine
Place a piece of material under the presser foot Q Fig 5 and lower the latter bymeans of the lifter R Now turn the handle over from you to work the machinewithout being threaded until you are accustomed to guiding the material with theleft hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
If the Machine is Treadle Operated
Loosen the hand wheel by turning motion screw L Fig 16 over toward youplace both feet upon the treadle and turn the hand wheel over toward you at thesame time allowing the feet to move freely and lightly with the motion of thetreadle Continue to do this until a regular and easy movement is acquired andyou are able to work the treadle so that you can re-start the machine with thewheel turning toward you
When familiar with the working movement tighten the hand wheel by turning thestop motions screw over from you and place a piece of material under thepresser foot Q Fig 5 Lower the latter by means of the lifter and again work themachine without being threaded until you are accustomed to guiding thematerial
The belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Belt Shifter
This device simplifies throwing off andreplacing the belt To throw off the beltmove the belt shifter to the left (see Fig8) working the treadle at the sametime To replace the belt work thetreadle slowly with the hand wheelturning toward you when a revolutionsor tow of the wheel will bring the beltback into its place
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Class 99 amp 99K
Protection Against Rust Damage
Lint and fluff if not removed prior to storage will during humid periods absorband hold moisture and thus accelerate rust damage to highly polished threadhandling and other exposed parts The extend of rust damage would dependupon the length of time the machine remained in idle storage where there is noventilation Sudden drops in temperature till cause moisture to form on partswhich if not protected by a film of oil would rust and damage while in storage
Proper storage care suggests thorough brush-cleaning to remove all traces of lintand fluff followed by swabbing of all the exposed parts in Figs 10 and 11 with alint-free brush saturated with SINGER oil SINGER lint-free brush may bepurchased at your local SINGER dealer
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Oil the Machine and Stand
If the machine is used continuously it should be oiled daily If moderately used anoccasional oiling is sufficient Apply one drop of oil at teach of the places indicatedby the unlettered arrows in Figs 9 10 and 12 and carefully clean the machine toinsure smooth and satisfactory performance Oil holes are provided in the machinefor bearings which cannot be directly reached
Remove face plate D Fig 9 by taking out screw C and loosening screw E near thetop of the place Slip plate over screw E Oil the points indicated in Fig 10 andthen replace face plate D
Draw the slide to the left (as shown in Fig 9) and after removing the lint and dustwhich may have accumulated (see instructions on page 24) apply a drop of oil atthe place indicated at F Fig 11 The slide should then be closed
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Class 99 amp 99KTo oil the parts underneath the bed of the machine turn the machine back on itshinges and apply oil to the oil holes and bearings indicated inFig 12
To oil the stand apply a drop of oil to the centers upon which the band wheel andtreadle work and to both ends of the pitman rod connecting the treadle with theband wheel
After oiling run the machine rapidly for a few minutes so that the oil may reachthe bearings Neglect to oil the machine will shorten its life and cause youtrouble and annoyance
Always use SINGER oil Inferior oil clogs the bearings prevents efficientworking and causes rapid wear of the mechanism
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Class 99 amp 99K
Needles and Thread
For perfect stitching thread should be selected according to fabric to be stitchedand needle must be correct size for thread which must pass freely through eye ofthe needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Set the Needle
Select the correct needle according to the table on page 11 Be sure that theneedle is not blunt or bent Raise the needle bar to its highest position andloosen thumb screw H Fig 13 in needle clamp Push needle with its flat sidetoward the right up into needle clamp as far as it will go then tighten the thumbscrew H A screwdriver slot is provided for stronger clamping of needle requiredfor attachments driven from needle clamp hub
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Class 99 amp 99K
UPPER THREADING
See Fig 14 Place spool of thread onspool pin Raise take-up lever 5 to itshighest point Lead thread into threadguide 1 down and from right to leftbetween tension discs 2 into the loopof the take-up spring 3 under the slackthread regulator 4 (not through theeye in the thread regulator) up andfrom right to left through hole in take-uplever 5 down through guide 6 on theface plate down through the lower wireguide 7 from left to right through theeye of the needle 8
Draw about two inches of threadthrough the eye of the needle withwhich to begin to sew
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Remove the Bobbin
Raise needle to its highest point Draw slide plate to the left Press bobbinejector J Fig 15 to raise bobbin for easy removal
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Wind the Bobbin
Hold the hand wheel K Fig 16 with left hand and with right hand loosen stopmotion screw L to disengage stitching mechanism
Place empty bobbin on bobbin winder spindle see Fig 16 Turn bobbin until holein right side engages pin in spindle Press bobbin winder downward until latch MFig 17 engages In this position latch will hold bobbin in place
Place spool of thread on spool pin 1
Draw thread through guide 2 on arm of machine Lead thread from front to rearthrough lower notch of guide 3
Thread through O Fig 17 in left side of bobbin from inside The end of thethread must be held by hand until it is broken off by the rotation of the bobbin
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Class 99 amp 99K
Fig 17 shows bobbin winder in position for winding When sufficient thread hasbeen wound the winder is automatically released
Remove filled bobbin from bobbin winder spindle and re-tighten stop motionscrew L Fig 16
If thread does not wind evenly on bobbin loosen screw which holds thread guide3 Fig 16 Turn guide to left if bobbin winds high on right Turn guide to left isbobbin winds high on left When guide is properly centered thread will windevenly across bobbin Tighten guide clamping screw
If the pressure of bobbin winder pulley N Fig 17 against hub of hand wheel isinsufficient for winding the bobbin press down winder until latch M drops downand holds it then loosen screw P2 With the forefinger push back upper end ofslotted plate P1 as far as it will go and at the same time with the thumb presswinder against ledge of wheel Then tighten screw P2 securely Afterwardsraise latch to release winder from contact with hand wheel
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Class 99 amp99K
To Replace the Bobbin
Hold the bobbin between the thumband forefinger of the left hand with thethread leading on top from the righttoward the left as shown inFig 18 Place bobbin into the bobbin case anddraw the thread into the slot 1 Fig 19in the bobbin case as shown Draw the thread backward between thebobbin case and the tension spring untilit reaches the notch 2 Fig 20 then pullthe thread toward the right as shown inFig 20 When closing the slide place thread upthrough slot 3 Fig 21 as shown
FIG 18 Replacing the Bobbin
FIG 19 Threading the Bobbin Case
FIG 20 Bobbin Case Threaded FIG 21 Under Threading Completed
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Prepare for Sewing
Have the thread take-up lever at itshighest position With the left handhold the end of the needle threadleaving it slack from the hand to theneedle Turn the hand wheel over toward youuntil the needle moves down and upagain to its highest point thus catchingthe bobbin thread Draw up the needlethread and the bobbin thread will comeup with it through the hole in the throatplate as shown in Fig 22
Lay both threads back under thepresser foot diagonally across the feedto right or left depending upon whichside of the needle the material is to belocated so that when the presser foot islowered the threads will be firmly heldbetween the feed and the presser foot
Fig 22 Drawing Up the Under Thread
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Start Sewing
Be sure to have thread take-up lever 5Fig 14 at its highest position
Place the material beneath the presserfoot Q Fig 23 then turn the had wheelto bring the point of the needle into thematerial then lower the presser foot bymeans of presser bar lifter R and startto sew
Some materials such as soft finishedsheers nylons jerseys tricots andother elastic and sponge textilesrequire a slight amount of assistance infeeding during sewing operations
Fig 23 To Start Sewing
However too much pull will stretch the seam create irregular stitching and bendthe needle Most materials require only guiding for best sewing results
The machine will sew its own thread when sewing from one piece of material toanother However it is not recommended that any sewing be done with athreaded machine unless some fabric is under the presser foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Turn a Corner
Stop the machine when the needle eye making its upward stroke is still in thefabric Raise the presser foot and turn the work as desired using the needle as apivot then lower the presser foot and resume sewing
Basting
The longest stitch No 6 on the stitch indicator plate is satisfactory for bastingand is easily removed by clipping every sixth stitch and withdrawing the longcontinuous thread Machine basting is firmer more even and much quicker thanhand basting
To Sew Bias Seams
Use a short stitch when sewing bias or curved seams to increase the elasticity ofthe seam and to prevent seam failure under strain No change in tensions isrequired
To Remove the Work
Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever 5 Fig 14 at its highest point Raise the presser foot by means of presser bar lifter R Fig 23 draw the fabricback and to the left and sever the threads on thread cutter S Fig 23 Placeends of threads under presser foot
Caution When the machine is not in use raise the presser foot by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury to the presser foot and the feed T Fig 23
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Length of Stitch The machine is adjustable to makefrom 6 to 30 stitches per inch asindicated by the numerals on the stitchindicator plate
The red dot indicator U Fig 24 in theslot at the left indicates the stitchsetting To regulate the length of stitchturn thumb nut V Fig 24 on leveraway from the stitch indicator plate asfar as necessary Move the lever at Vuntil the red dot indicator U is at thedesired stitch setting Then turn thumbnut V inward until it touches indicatorplate The machine is not set to stitchthe desired number of stitches per inchin a forward direction
To Reverse the Direction of Feed
For Back Tacking raise the lever to theupper end of the indicator plate Themachine will then stitch in a reversedirection making it easy to fasten theends of seams
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Pressure on PresserFoot
For ordinary sewing the pressure ofthe presser foot on the material seldomrequires changing Heavy materialsrequire more pressure than light weightmaterials The pressure should be onlyheavy enough to prevent the materialfrom rising with the needle and toenable the feed to move the work alongevenly without side creeping Toincrease the pressure turn the thumbscrew W Fig 25 clockwise ordownward To lighten the pressureturn the thumb screw W so that itscrews upward
FIG 25 Thumb Screw for Regulating Pressureon Presser Foot
Thread Tension
For perfect stitching the tension on theneedle and bobbin threads must beheavy enough to pull the threads to thecenter of the thickness of the materialand make a firm stitch as shown in Fig26 If the needle lies straight along thetop side of the material the tension onthe needle thread is too heavy or thetension on the bobbin thread is toolight as shown in Fig 27 If the bobbinthread lies straight along the undersideof the material the tension on theneedle thread is too light or the tensionon the bobbin thread is too heavy asshown inFig 28
FIG 26 Perfect Stitching
FIG 27 Imperfect Stitching
FIG 28 Imperfect Stitching
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread canbe tested only when the presser foot isdown
The numerals 0 to 9 dial X Fig 29indicate the different degrees of tensionthat can be obtained The numbers donot denote size of thread or amount oftension
When the tension has been correctlyset note the number at the indicatorline Y Fig 29 so that this setting maybe regained should the tension bealtered for special work
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To increase tension turn the thumbnut Z Fig 29 gradually to the right(clockwise) until the required tension isobtained Each higher number denotesincreased tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
If the Machine is Hand Operated
When the machine is uncovered thehand attachment will be found to be outof working position as shown in Fig 6 Pull the small spring stud 2 and turnthe handle back until leer 1 enters thesocket 3 Press back the hinged finger4 Fig 7 between the spokes of thewheel The machine is now ready forworking as shown in Fig 7
NOTE Before replacing the cover onthe machine in its case the levershould be disengaged and the handleplaced in the position shown in Fig 6
To Operate the Hand Machine
Place a piece of material under the presser foot Q Fig 5 and lower the latter bymeans of the lifter R Now turn the handle over from you to work the machinewithout being threaded until you are accustomed to guiding the material with theleft hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
If the Machine is Treadle Operated
Loosen the hand wheel by turning motion screw L Fig 16 over toward youplace both feet upon the treadle and turn the hand wheel over toward you at thesame time allowing the feet to move freely and lightly with the motion of thetreadle Continue to do this until a regular and easy movement is acquired andyou are able to work the treadle so that you can re-start the machine with thewheel turning toward you
When familiar with the working movement tighten the hand wheel by turning thestop motions screw over from you and place a piece of material under thepresser foot Q Fig 5 Lower the latter by means of the lifter and again work themachine without being threaded until you are accustomed to guiding thematerial
The belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Belt Shifter
This device simplifies throwing off andreplacing the belt To throw off the beltmove the belt shifter to the left (see Fig8) working the treadle at the sametime To replace the belt work thetreadle slowly with the hand wheelturning toward you when a revolutionsor tow of the wheel will bring the beltback into its place
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Class 99 amp 99K
Protection Against Rust Damage
Lint and fluff if not removed prior to storage will during humid periods absorband hold moisture and thus accelerate rust damage to highly polished threadhandling and other exposed parts The extend of rust damage would dependupon the length of time the machine remained in idle storage where there is noventilation Sudden drops in temperature till cause moisture to form on partswhich if not protected by a film of oil would rust and damage while in storage
Proper storage care suggests thorough brush-cleaning to remove all traces of lintand fluff followed by swabbing of all the exposed parts in Figs 10 and 11 with alint-free brush saturated with SINGER oil SINGER lint-free brush may bepurchased at your local SINGER dealer
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Oil the Machine and Stand
If the machine is used continuously it should be oiled daily If moderately used anoccasional oiling is sufficient Apply one drop of oil at teach of the places indicatedby the unlettered arrows in Figs 9 10 and 12 and carefully clean the machine toinsure smooth and satisfactory performance Oil holes are provided in the machinefor bearings which cannot be directly reached
Remove face plate D Fig 9 by taking out screw C and loosening screw E near thetop of the place Slip plate over screw E Oil the points indicated in Fig 10 andthen replace face plate D
Draw the slide to the left (as shown in Fig 9) and after removing the lint and dustwhich may have accumulated (see instructions on page 24) apply a drop of oil atthe place indicated at F Fig 11 The slide should then be closed
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Class 99 amp 99KTo oil the parts underneath the bed of the machine turn the machine back on itshinges and apply oil to the oil holes and bearings indicated inFig 12
To oil the stand apply a drop of oil to the centers upon which the band wheel andtreadle work and to both ends of the pitman rod connecting the treadle with theband wheel
After oiling run the machine rapidly for a few minutes so that the oil may reachthe bearings Neglect to oil the machine will shorten its life and cause youtrouble and annoyance
Always use SINGER oil Inferior oil clogs the bearings prevents efficientworking and causes rapid wear of the mechanism
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Class 99 amp 99K
Needles and Thread
For perfect stitching thread should be selected according to fabric to be stitchedand needle must be correct size for thread which must pass freely through eye ofthe needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Set the Needle
Select the correct needle according to the table on page 11 Be sure that theneedle is not blunt or bent Raise the needle bar to its highest position andloosen thumb screw H Fig 13 in needle clamp Push needle with its flat sidetoward the right up into needle clamp as far as it will go then tighten the thumbscrew H A screwdriver slot is provided for stronger clamping of needle requiredfor attachments driven from needle clamp hub
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Class 99 amp 99K
UPPER THREADING
See Fig 14 Place spool of thread onspool pin Raise take-up lever 5 to itshighest point Lead thread into threadguide 1 down and from right to leftbetween tension discs 2 into the loopof the take-up spring 3 under the slackthread regulator 4 (not through theeye in the thread regulator) up andfrom right to left through hole in take-uplever 5 down through guide 6 on theface plate down through the lower wireguide 7 from left to right through theeye of the needle 8
Draw about two inches of threadthrough the eye of the needle withwhich to begin to sew
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Remove the Bobbin
Raise needle to its highest point Draw slide plate to the left Press bobbinejector J Fig 15 to raise bobbin for easy removal
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Wind the Bobbin
Hold the hand wheel K Fig 16 with left hand and with right hand loosen stopmotion screw L to disengage stitching mechanism
Place empty bobbin on bobbin winder spindle see Fig 16 Turn bobbin until holein right side engages pin in spindle Press bobbin winder downward until latch MFig 17 engages In this position latch will hold bobbin in place
Place spool of thread on spool pin 1
Draw thread through guide 2 on arm of machine Lead thread from front to rearthrough lower notch of guide 3
Thread through O Fig 17 in left side of bobbin from inside The end of thethread must be held by hand until it is broken off by the rotation of the bobbin
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Class 99 amp 99K
Fig 17 shows bobbin winder in position for winding When sufficient thread hasbeen wound the winder is automatically released
Remove filled bobbin from bobbin winder spindle and re-tighten stop motionscrew L Fig 16
If thread does not wind evenly on bobbin loosen screw which holds thread guide3 Fig 16 Turn guide to left if bobbin winds high on right Turn guide to left isbobbin winds high on left When guide is properly centered thread will windevenly across bobbin Tighten guide clamping screw
If the pressure of bobbin winder pulley N Fig 17 against hub of hand wheel isinsufficient for winding the bobbin press down winder until latch M drops downand holds it then loosen screw P2 With the forefinger push back upper end ofslotted plate P1 as far as it will go and at the same time with the thumb presswinder against ledge of wheel Then tighten screw P2 securely Afterwardsraise latch to release winder from contact with hand wheel
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Class 99 amp99K
To Replace the Bobbin
Hold the bobbin between the thumband forefinger of the left hand with thethread leading on top from the righttoward the left as shown inFig 18 Place bobbin into the bobbin case anddraw the thread into the slot 1 Fig 19in the bobbin case as shown Draw the thread backward between thebobbin case and the tension spring untilit reaches the notch 2 Fig 20 then pullthe thread toward the right as shown inFig 20 When closing the slide place thread upthrough slot 3 Fig 21 as shown
FIG 18 Replacing the Bobbin
FIG 19 Threading the Bobbin Case
FIG 20 Bobbin Case Threaded FIG 21 Under Threading Completed
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Prepare for Sewing
Have the thread take-up lever at itshighest position With the left handhold the end of the needle threadleaving it slack from the hand to theneedle Turn the hand wheel over toward youuntil the needle moves down and upagain to its highest point thus catchingthe bobbin thread Draw up the needlethread and the bobbin thread will comeup with it through the hole in the throatplate as shown in Fig 22
Lay both threads back under thepresser foot diagonally across the feedto right or left depending upon whichside of the needle the material is to belocated so that when the presser foot islowered the threads will be firmly heldbetween the feed and the presser foot
Fig 22 Drawing Up the Under Thread
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Start Sewing
Be sure to have thread take-up lever 5Fig 14 at its highest position
Place the material beneath the presserfoot Q Fig 23 then turn the had wheelto bring the point of the needle into thematerial then lower the presser foot bymeans of presser bar lifter R and startto sew
Some materials such as soft finishedsheers nylons jerseys tricots andother elastic and sponge textilesrequire a slight amount of assistance infeeding during sewing operations
Fig 23 To Start Sewing
However too much pull will stretch the seam create irregular stitching and bendthe needle Most materials require only guiding for best sewing results
The machine will sew its own thread when sewing from one piece of material toanother However it is not recommended that any sewing be done with athreaded machine unless some fabric is under the presser foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Turn a Corner
Stop the machine when the needle eye making its upward stroke is still in thefabric Raise the presser foot and turn the work as desired using the needle as apivot then lower the presser foot and resume sewing
Basting
The longest stitch No 6 on the stitch indicator plate is satisfactory for bastingand is easily removed by clipping every sixth stitch and withdrawing the longcontinuous thread Machine basting is firmer more even and much quicker thanhand basting
To Sew Bias Seams
Use a short stitch when sewing bias or curved seams to increase the elasticity ofthe seam and to prevent seam failure under strain No change in tensions isrequired
To Remove the Work
Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever 5 Fig 14 at its highest point Raise the presser foot by means of presser bar lifter R Fig 23 draw the fabricback and to the left and sever the threads on thread cutter S Fig 23 Placeends of threads under presser foot
Caution When the machine is not in use raise the presser foot by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury to the presser foot and the feed T Fig 23
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Length of Stitch The machine is adjustable to makefrom 6 to 30 stitches per inch asindicated by the numerals on the stitchindicator plate
The red dot indicator U Fig 24 in theslot at the left indicates the stitchsetting To regulate the length of stitchturn thumb nut V Fig 24 on leveraway from the stitch indicator plate asfar as necessary Move the lever at Vuntil the red dot indicator U is at thedesired stitch setting Then turn thumbnut V inward until it touches indicatorplate The machine is not set to stitchthe desired number of stitches per inchin a forward direction
To Reverse the Direction of Feed
For Back Tacking raise the lever to theupper end of the indicator plate Themachine will then stitch in a reversedirection making it easy to fasten theends of seams
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Pressure on PresserFoot
For ordinary sewing the pressure ofthe presser foot on the material seldomrequires changing Heavy materialsrequire more pressure than light weightmaterials The pressure should be onlyheavy enough to prevent the materialfrom rising with the needle and toenable the feed to move the work alongevenly without side creeping Toincrease the pressure turn the thumbscrew W Fig 25 clockwise ordownward To lighten the pressureturn the thumb screw W so that itscrews upward
FIG 25 Thumb Screw for Regulating Pressureon Presser Foot
Thread Tension
For perfect stitching the tension on theneedle and bobbin threads must beheavy enough to pull the threads to thecenter of the thickness of the materialand make a firm stitch as shown in Fig26 If the needle lies straight along thetop side of the material the tension onthe needle thread is too heavy or thetension on the bobbin thread is toolight as shown in Fig 27 If the bobbinthread lies straight along the undersideof the material the tension on theneedle thread is too light or the tensionon the bobbin thread is too heavy asshown inFig 28
FIG 26 Perfect Stitching
FIG 27 Imperfect Stitching
FIG 28 Imperfect Stitching
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread canbe tested only when the presser foot isdown
The numerals 0 to 9 dial X Fig 29indicate the different degrees of tensionthat can be obtained The numbers donot denote size of thread or amount oftension
When the tension has been correctlyset note the number at the indicatorline Y Fig 29 so that this setting maybe regained should the tension bealtered for special work
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To increase tension turn the thumbnut Z Fig 29 gradually to the right(clockwise) until the required tension isobtained Each higher number denotesincreased tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
If the Machine is Treadle Operated
Loosen the hand wheel by turning motion screw L Fig 16 over toward youplace both feet upon the treadle and turn the hand wheel over toward you at thesame time allowing the feet to move freely and lightly with the motion of thetreadle Continue to do this until a regular and easy movement is acquired andyou are able to work the treadle so that you can re-start the machine with thewheel turning toward you
When familiar with the working movement tighten the hand wheel by turning thestop motions screw over from you and place a piece of material under thepresser foot Q Fig 5 Lower the latter by means of the lifter and again work themachine without being threaded until you are accustomed to guiding thematerial
The belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Belt Shifter
This device simplifies throwing off andreplacing the belt To throw off the beltmove the belt shifter to the left (see Fig8) working the treadle at the sametime To replace the belt work thetreadle slowly with the hand wheelturning toward you when a revolutionsor tow of the wheel will bring the beltback into its place
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Class 99 amp 99K
Protection Against Rust Damage
Lint and fluff if not removed prior to storage will during humid periods absorband hold moisture and thus accelerate rust damage to highly polished threadhandling and other exposed parts The extend of rust damage would dependupon the length of time the machine remained in idle storage where there is noventilation Sudden drops in temperature till cause moisture to form on partswhich if not protected by a film of oil would rust and damage while in storage
Proper storage care suggests thorough brush-cleaning to remove all traces of lintand fluff followed by swabbing of all the exposed parts in Figs 10 and 11 with alint-free brush saturated with SINGER oil SINGER lint-free brush may bepurchased at your local SINGER dealer
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Oil the Machine and Stand
If the machine is used continuously it should be oiled daily If moderately used anoccasional oiling is sufficient Apply one drop of oil at teach of the places indicatedby the unlettered arrows in Figs 9 10 and 12 and carefully clean the machine toinsure smooth and satisfactory performance Oil holes are provided in the machinefor bearings which cannot be directly reached
Remove face plate D Fig 9 by taking out screw C and loosening screw E near thetop of the place Slip plate over screw E Oil the points indicated in Fig 10 andthen replace face plate D
Draw the slide to the left (as shown in Fig 9) and after removing the lint and dustwhich may have accumulated (see instructions on page 24) apply a drop of oil atthe place indicated at F Fig 11 The slide should then be closed
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Class 99 amp 99KTo oil the parts underneath the bed of the machine turn the machine back on itshinges and apply oil to the oil holes and bearings indicated inFig 12
To oil the stand apply a drop of oil to the centers upon which the band wheel andtreadle work and to both ends of the pitman rod connecting the treadle with theband wheel
After oiling run the machine rapidly for a few minutes so that the oil may reachthe bearings Neglect to oil the machine will shorten its life and cause youtrouble and annoyance
Always use SINGER oil Inferior oil clogs the bearings prevents efficientworking and causes rapid wear of the mechanism
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Class 99 amp 99K
Needles and Thread
For perfect stitching thread should be selected according to fabric to be stitchedand needle must be correct size for thread which must pass freely through eye ofthe needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Set the Needle
Select the correct needle according to the table on page 11 Be sure that theneedle is not blunt or bent Raise the needle bar to its highest position andloosen thumb screw H Fig 13 in needle clamp Push needle with its flat sidetoward the right up into needle clamp as far as it will go then tighten the thumbscrew H A screwdriver slot is provided for stronger clamping of needle requiredfor attachments driven from needle clamp hub
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Class 99 amp 99K
UPPER THREADING
See Fig 14 Place spool of thread onspool pin Raise take-up lever 5 to itshighest point Lead thread into threadguide 1 down and from right to leftbetween tension discs 2 into the loopof the take-up spring 3 under the slackthread regulator 4 (not through theeye in the thread regulator) up andfrom right to left through hole in take-uplever 5 down through guide 6 on theface plate down through the lower wireguide 7 from left to right through theeye of the needle 8
Draw about two inches of threadthrough the eye of the needle withwhich to begin to sew
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Remove the Bobbin
Raise needle to its highest point Draw slide plate to the left Press bobbinejector J Fig 15 to raise bobbin for easy removal
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Wind the Bobbin
Hold the hand wheel K Fig 16 with left hand and with right hand loosen stopmotion screw L to disengage stitching mechanism
Place empty bobbin on bobbin winder spindle see Fig 16 Turn bobbin until holein right side engages pin in spindle Press bobbin winder downward until latch MFig 17 engages In this position latch will hold bobbin in place
Place spool of thread on spool pin 1
Draw thread through guide 2 on arm of machine Lead thread from front to rearthrough lower notch of guide 3
Thread through O Fig 17 in left side of bobbin from inside The end of thethread must be held by hand until it is broken off by the rotation of the bobbin
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Class 99 amp 99K
Fig 17 shows bobbin winder in position for winding When sufficient thread hasbeen wound the winder is automatically released
Remove filled bobbin from bobbin winder spindle and re-tighten stop motionscrew L Fig 16
If thread does not wind evenly on bobbin loosen screw which holds thread guide3 Fig 16 Turn guide to left if bobbin winds high on right Turn guide to left isbobbin winds high on left When guide is properly centered thread will windevenly across bobbin Tighten guide clamping screw
If the pressure of bobbin winder pulley N Fig 17 against hub of hand wheel isinsufficient for winding the bobbin press down winder until latch M drops downand holds it then loosen screw P2 With the forefinger push back upper end ofslotted plate P1 as far as it will go and at the same time with the thumb presswinder against ledge of wheel Then tighten screw P2 securely Afterwardsraise latch to release winder from contact with hand wheel
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Class 99 amp99K
To Replace the Bobbin
Hold the bobbin between the thumband forefinger of the left hand with thethread leading on top from the righttoward the left as shown inFig 18 Place bobbin into the bobbin case anddraw the thread into the slot 1 Fig 19in the bobbin case as shown Draw the thread backward between thebobbin case and the tension spring untilit reaches the notch 2 Fig 20 then pullthe thread toward the right as shown inFig 20 When closing the slide place thread upthrough slot 3 Fig 21 as shown
FIG 18 Replacing the Bobbin
FIG 19 Threading the Bobbin Case
FIG 20 Bobbin Case Threaded FIG 21 Under Threading Completed
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Prepare for Sewing
Have the thread take-up lever at itshighest position With the left handhold the end of the needle threadleaving it slack from the hand to theneedle Turn the hand wheel over toward youuntil the needle moves down and upagain to its highest point thus catchingthe bobbin thread Draw up the needlethread and the bobbin thread will comeup with it through the hole in the throatplate as shown in Fig 22
Lay both threads back under thepresser foot diagonally across the feedto right or left depending upon whichside of the needle the material is to belocated so that when the presser foot islowered the threads will be firmly heldbetween the feed and the presser foot
Fig 22 Drawing Up the Under Thread
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Start Sewing
Be sure to have thread take-up lever 5Fig 14 at its highest position
Place the material beneath the presserfoot Q Fig 23 then turn the had wheelto bring the point of the needle into thematerial then lower the presser foot bymeans of presser bar lifter R and startto sew
Some materials such as soft finishedsheers nylons jerseys tricots andother elastic and sponge textilesrequire a slight amount of assistance infeeding during sewing operations
Fig 23 To Start Sewing
However too much pull will stretch the seam create irregular stitching and bendthe needle Most materials require only guiding for best sewing results
The machine will sew its own thread when sewing from one piece of material toanother However it is not recommended that any sewing be done with athreaded machine unless some fabric is under the presser foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Turn a Corner
Stop the machine when the needle eye making its upward stroke is still in thefabric Raise the presser foot and turn the work as desired using the needle as apivot then lower the presser foot and resume sewing
Basting
The longest stitch No 6 on the stitch indicator plate is satisfactory for bastingand is easily removed by clipping every sixth stitch and withdrawing the longcontinuous thread Machine basting is firmer more even and much quicker thanhand basting
To Sew Bias Seams
Use a short stitch when sewing bias or curved seams to increase the elasticity ofthe seam and to prevent seam failure under strain No change in tensions isrequired
To Remove the Work
Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever 5 Fig 14 at its highest point Raise the presser foot by means of presser bar lifter R Fig 23 draw the fabricback and to the left and sever the threads on thread cutter S Fig 23 Placeends of threads under presser foot
Caution When the machine is not in use raise the presser foot by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury to the presser foot and the feed T Fig 23
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Length of Stitch The machine is adjustable to makefrom 6 to 30 stitches per inch asindicated by the numerals on the stitchindicator plate
The red dot indicator U Fig 24 in theslot at the left indicates the stitchsetting To regulate the length of stitchturn thumb nut V Fig 24 on leveraway from the stitch indicator plate asfar as necessary Move the lever at Vuntil the red dot indicator U is at thedesired stitch setting Then turn thumbnut V inward until it touches indicatorplate The machine is not set to stitchthe desired number of stitches per inchin a forward direction
To Reverse the Direction of Feed
For Back Tacking raise the lever to theupper end of the indicator plate Themachine will then stitch in a reversedirection making it easy to fasten theends of seams
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Pressure on PresserFoot
For ordinary sewing the pressure ofthe presser foot on the material seldomrequires changing Heavy materialsrequire more pressure than light weightmaterials The pressure should be onlyheavy enough to prevent the materialfrom rising with the needle and toenable the feed to move the work alongevenly without side creeping Toincrease the pressure turn the thumbscrew W Fig 25 clockwise ordownward To lighten the pressureturn the thumb screw W so that itscrews upward
FIG 25 Thumb Screw for Regulating Pressureon Presser Foot
Thread Tension
For perfect stitching the tension on theneedle and bobbin threads must beheavy enough to pull the threads to thecenter of the thickness of the materialand make a firm stitch as shown in Fig26 If the needle lies straight along thetop side of the material the tension onthe needle thread is too heavy or thetension on the bobbin thread is toolight as shown in Fig 27 If the bobbinthread lies straight along the undersideof the material the tension on theneedle thread is too light or the tensionon the bobbin thread is too heavy asshown inFig 28
FIG 26 Perfect Stitching
FIG 27 Imperfect Stitching
FIG 28 Imperfect Stitching
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread canbe tested only when the presser foot isdown
The numerals 0 to 9 dial X Fig 29indicate the different degrees of tensionthat can be obtained The numbers donot denote size of thread or amount oftension
When the tension has been correctlyset note the number at the indicatorline Y Fig 29 so that this setting maybe regained should the tension bealtered for special work
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To increase tension turn the thumbnut Z Fig 29 gradually to the right(clockwise) until the required tension isobtained Each higher number denotesincreased tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
Protection Against Rust Damage
Lint and fluff if not removed prior to storage will during humid periods absorband hold moisture and thus accelerate rust damage to highly polished threadhandling and other exposed parts The extend of rust damage would dependupon the length of time the machine remained in idle storage where there is noventilation Sudden drops in temperature till cause moisture to form on partswhich if not protected by a film of oil would rust and damage while in storage
Proper storage care suggests thorough brush-cleaning to remove all traces of lintand fluff followed by swabbing of all the exposed parts in Figs 10 and 11 with alint-free brush saturated with SINGER oil SINGER lint-free brush may bepurchased at your local SINGER dealer
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Oil the Machine and Stand
If the machine is used continuously it should be oiled daily If moderately used anoccasional oiling is sufficient Apply one drop of oil at teach of the places indicatedby the unlettered arrows in Figs 9 10 and 12 and carefully clean the machine toinsure smooth and satisfactory performance Oil holes are provided in the machinefor bearings which cannot be directly reached
Remove face plate D Fig 9 by taking out screw C and loosening screw E near thetop of the place Slip plate over screw E Oil the points indicated in Fig 10 andthen replace face plate D
Draw the slide to the left (as shown in Fig 9) and after removing the lint and dustwhich may have accumulated (see instructions on page 24) apply a drop of oil atthe place indicated at F Fig 11 The slide should then be closed
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Class 99 amp 99KTo oil the parts underneath the bed of the machine turn the machine back on itshinges and apply oil to the oil holes and bearings indicated inFig 12
To oil the stand apply a drop of oil to the centers upon which the band wheel andtreadle work and to both ends of the pitman rod connecting the treadle with theband wheel
After oiling run the machine rapidly for a few minutes so that the oil may reachthe bearings Neglect to oil the machine will shorten its life and cause youtrouble and annoyance
Always use SINGER oil Inferior oil clogs the bearings prevents efficientworking and causes rapid wear of the mechanism
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Class 99 amp 99K
Needles and Thread
For perfect stitching thread should be selected according to fabric to be stitchedand needle must be correct size for thread which must pass freely through eye ofthe needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Set the Needle
Select the correct needle according to the table on page 11 Be sure that theneedle is not blunt or bent Raise the needle bar to its highest position andloosen thumb screw H Fig 13 in needle clamp Push needle with its flat sidetoward the right up into needle clamp as far as it will go then tighten the thumbscrew H A screwdriver slot is provided for stronger clamping of needle requiredfor attachments driven from needle clamp hub
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Class 99 amp 99K
UPPER THREADING
See Fig 14 Place spool of thread onspool pin Raise take-up lever 5 to itshighest point Lead thread into threadguide 1 down and from right to leftbetween tension discs 2 into the loopof the take-up spring 3 under the slackthread regulator 4 (not through theeye in the thread regulator) up andfrom right to left through hole in take-uplever 5 down through guide 6 on theface plate down through the lower wireguide 7 from left to right through theeye of the needle 8
Draw about two inches of threadthrough the eye of the needle withwhich to begin to sew
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Remove the Bobbin
Raise needle to its highest point Draw slide plate to the left Press bobbinejector J Fig 15 to raise bobbin for easy removal
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Wind the Bobbin
Hold the hand wheel K Fig 16 with left hand and with right hand loosen stopmotion screw L to disengage stitching mechanism
Place empty bobbin on bobbin winder spindle see Fig 16 Turn bobbin until holein right side engages pin in spindle Press bobbin winder downward until latch MFig 17 engages In this position latch will hold bobbin in place
Place spool of thread on spool pin 1
Draw thread through guide 2 on arm of machine Lead thread from front to rearthrough lower notch of guide 3
Thread through O Fig 17 in left side of bobbin from inside The end of thethread must be held by hand until it is broken off by the rotation of the bobbin
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Class 99 amp 99K
Fig 17 shows bobbin winder in position for winding When sufficient thread hasbeen wound the winder is automatically released
Remove filled bobbin from bobbin winder spindle and re-tighten stop motionscrew L Fig 16
If thread does not wind evenly on bobbin loosen screw which holds thread guide3 Fig 16 Turn guide to left if bobbin winds high on right Turn guide to left isbobbin winds high on left When guide is properly centered thread will windevenly across bobbin Tighten guide clamping screw
If the pressure of bobbin winder pulley N Fig 17 against hub of hand wheel isinsufficient for winding the bobbin press down winder until latch M drops downand holds it then loosen screw P2 With the forefinger push back upper end ofslotted plate P1 as far as it will go and at the same time with the thumb presswinder against ledge of wheel Then tighten screw P2 securely Afterwardsraise latch to release winder from contact with hand wheel
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Class 99 amp99K
To Replace the Bobbin
Hold the bobbin between the thumband forefinger of the left hand with thethread leading on top from the righttoward the left as shown inFig 18 Place bobbin into the bobbin case anddraw the thread into the slot 1 Fig 19in the bobbin case as shown Draw the thread backward between thebobbin case and the tension spring untilit reaches the notch 2 Fig 20 then pullthe thread toward the right as shown inFig 20 When closing the slide place thread upthrough slot 3 Fig 21 as shown
FIG 18 Replacing the Bobbin
FIG 19 Threading the Bobbin Case
FIG 20 Bobbin Case Threaded FIG 21 Under Threading Completed
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Prepare for Sewing
Have the thread take-up lever at itshighest position With the left handhold the end of the needle threadleaving it slack from the hand to theneedle Turn the hand wheel over toward youuntil the needle moves down and upagain to its highest point thus catchingthe bobbin thread Draw up the needlethread and the bobbin thread will comeup with it through the hole in the throatplate as shown in Fig 22
Lay both threads back under thepresser foot diagonally across the feedto right or left depending upon whichside of the needle the material is to belocated so that when the presser foot islowered the threads will be firmly heldbetween the feed and the presser foot
Fig 22 Drawing Up the Under Thread
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Start Sewing
Be sure to have thread take-up lever 5Fig 14 at its highest position
Place the material beneath the presserfoot Q Fig 23 then turn the had wheelto bring the point of the needle into thematerial then lower the presser foot bymeans of presser bar lifter R and startto sew
Some materials such as soft finishedsheers nylons jerseys tricots andother elastic and sponge textilesrequire a slight amount of assistance infeeding during sewing operations
Fig 23 To Start Sewing
However too much pull will stretch the seam create irregular stitching and bendthe needle Most materials require only guiding for best sewing results
The machine will sew its own thread when sewing from one piece of material toanother However it is not recommended that any sewing be done with athreaded machine unless some fabric is under the presser foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Turn a Corner
Stop the machine when the needle eye making its upward stroke is still in thefabric Raise the presser foot and turn the work as desired using the needle as apivot then lower the presser foot and resume sewing
Basting
The longest stitch No 6 on the stitch indicator plate is satisfactory for bastingand is easily removed by clipping every sixth stitch and withdrawing the longcontinuous thread Machine basting is firmer more even and much quicker thanhand basting
To Sew Bias Seams
Use a short stitch when sewing bias or curved seams to increase the elasticity ofthe seam and to prevent seam failure under strain No change in tensions isrequired
To Remove the Work
Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever 5 Fig 14 at its highest point Raise the presser foot by means of presser bar lifter R Fig 23 draw the fabricback and to the left and sever the threads on thread cutter S Fig 23 Placeends of threads under presser foot
Caution When the machine is not in use raise the presser foot by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury to the presser foot and the feed T Fig 23
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Length of Stitch The machine is adjustable to makefrom 6 to 30 stitches per inch asindicated by the numerals on the stitchindicator plate
The red dot indicator U Fig 24 in theslot at the left indicates the stitchsetting To regulate the length of stitchturn thumb nut V Fig 24 on leveraway from the stitch indicator plate asfar as necessary Move the lever at Vuntil the red dot indicator U is at thedesired stitch setting Then turn thumbnut V inward until it touches indicatorplate The machine is not set to stitchthe desired number of stitches per inchin a forward direction
To Reverse the Direction of Feed
For Back Tacking raise the lever to theupper end of the indicator plate Themachine will then stitch in a reversedirection making it easy to fasten theends of seams
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Pressure on PresserFoot
For ordinary sewing the pressure ofthe presser foot on the material seldomrequires changing Heavy materialsrequire more pressure than light weightmaterials The pressure should be onlyheavy enough to prevent the materialfrom rising with the needle and toenable the feed to move the work alongevenly without side creeping Toincrease the pressure turn the thumbscrew W Fig 25 clockwise ordownward To lighten the pressureturn the thumb screw W so that itscrews upward
FIG 25 Thumb Screw for Regulating Pressureon Presser Foot
Thread Tension
For perfect stitching the tension on theneedle and bobbin threads must beheavy enough to pull the threads to thecenter of the thickness of the materialand make a firm stitch as shown in Fig26 If the needle lies straight along thetop side of the material the tension onthe needle thread is too heavy or thetension on the bobbin thread is toolight as shown in Fig 27 If the bobbinthread lies straight along the undersideof the material the tension on theneedle thread is too light or the tensionon the bobbin thread is too heavy asshown inFig 28
FIG 26 Perfect Stitching
FIG 27 Imperfect Stitching
FIG 28 Imperfect Stitching
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread canbe tested only when the presser foot isdown
The numerals 0 to 9 dial X Fig 29indicate the different degrees of tensionthat can be obtained The numbers donot denote size of thread or amount oftension
When the tension has been correctlyset note the number at the indicatorline Y Fig 29 so that this setting maybe regained should the tension bealtered for special work
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To increase tension turn the thumbnut Z Fig 29 gradually to the right(clockwise) until the required tension isobtained Each higher number denotesincreased tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Oil the Machine and Stand
If the machine is used continuously it should be oiled daily If moderately used anoccasional oiling is sufficient Apply one drop of oil at teach of the places indicatedby the unlettered arrows in Figs 9 10 and 12 and carefully clean the machine toinsure smooth and satisfactory performance Oil holes are provided in the machinefor bearings which cannot be directly reached
Remove face plate D Fig 9 by taking out screw C and loosening screw E near thetop of the place Slip plate over screw E Oil the points indicated in Fig 10 andthen replace face plate D
Draw the slide to the left (as shown in Fig 9) and after removing the lint and dustwhich may have accumulated (see instructions on page 24) apply a drop of oil atthe place indicated at F Fig 11 The slide should then be closed
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Class 99 amp 99KTo oil the parts underneath the bed of the machine turn the machine back on itshinges and apply oil to the oil holes and bearings indicated inFig 12
To oil the stand apply a drop of oil to the centers upon which the band wheel andtreadle work and to both ends of the pitman rod connecting the treadle with theband wheel
After oiling run the machine rapidly for a few minutes so that the oil may reachthe bearings Neglect to oil the machine will shorten its life and cause youtrouble and annoyance
Always use SINGER oil Inferior oil clogs the bearings prevents efficientworking and causes rapid wear of the mechanism
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Class 99 amp 99K
Needles and Thread
For perfect stitching thread should be selected according to fabric to be stitchedand needle must be correct size for thread which must pass freely through eye ofthe needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Set the Needle
Select the correct needle according to the table on page 11 Be sure that theneedle is not blunt or bent Raise the needle bar to its highest position andloosen thumb screw H Fig 13 in needle clamp Push needle with its flat sidetoward the right up into needle clamp as far as it will go then tighten the thumbscrew H A screwdriver slot is provided for stronger clamping of needle requiredfor attachments driven from needle clamp hub
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Class 99 amp 99K
UPPER THREADING
See Fig 14 Place spool of thread onspool pin Raise take-up lever 5 to itshighest point Lead thread into threadguide 1 down and from right to leftbetween tension discs 2 into the loopof the take-up spring 3 under the slackthread regulator 4 (not through theeye in the thread regulator) up andfrom right to left through hole in take-uplever 5 down through guide 6 on theface plate down through the lower wireguide 7 from left to right through theeye of the needle 8
Draw about two inches of threadthrough the eye of the needle withwhich to begin to sew
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Remove the Bobbin
Raise needle to its highest point Draw slide plate to the left Press bobbinejector J Fig 15 to raise bobbin for easy removal
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Wind the Bobbin
Hold the hand wheel K Fig 16 with left hand and with right hand loosen stopmotion screw L to disengage stitching mechanism
Place empty bobbin on bobbin winder spindle see Fig 16 Turn bobbin until holein right side engages pin in spindle Press bobbin winder downward until latch MFig 17 engages In this position latch will hold bobbin in place
Place spool of thread on spool pin 1
Draw thread through guide 2 on arm of machine Lead thread from front to rearthrough lower notch of guide 3
Thread through O Fig 17 in left side of bobbin from inside The end of thethread must be held by hand until it is broken off by the rotation of the bobbin
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Class 99 amp 99K
Fig 17 shows bobbin winder in position for winding When sufficient thread hasbeen wound the winder is automatically released
Remove filled bobbin from bobbin winder spindle and re-tighten stop motionscrew L Fig 16
If thread does not wind evenly on bobbin loosen screw which holds thread guide3 Fig 16 Turn guide to left if bobbin winds high on right Turn guide to left isbobbin winds high on left When guide is properly centered thread will windevenly across bobbin Tighten guide clamping screw
If the pressure of bobbin winder pulley N Fig 17 against hub of hand wheel isinsufficient for winding the bobbin press down winder until latch M drops downand holds it then loosen screw P2 With the forefinger push back upper end ofslotted plate P1 as far as it will go and at the same time with the thumb presswinder against ledge of wheel Then tighten screw P2 securely Afterwardsraise latch to release winder from contact with hand wheel
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Class 99 amp99K
To Replace the Bobbin
Hold the bobbin between the thumband forefinger of the left hand with thethread leading on top from the righttoward the left as shown inFig 18 Place bobbin into the bobbin case anddraw the thread into the slot 1 Fig 19in the bobbin case as shown Draw the thread backward between thebobbin case and the tension spring untilit reaches the notch 2 Fig 20 then pullthe thread toward the right as shown inFig 20 When closing the slide place thread upthrough slot 3 Fig 21 as shown
FIG 18 Replacing the Bobbin
FIG 19 Threading the Bobbin Case
FIG 20 Bobbin Case Threaded FIG 21 Under Threading Completed
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Prepare for Sewing
Have the thread take-up lever at itshighest position With the left handhold the end of the needle threadleaving it slack from the hand to theneedle Turn the hand wheel over toward youuntil the needle moves down and upagain to its highest point thus catchingthe bobbin thread Draw up the needlethread and the bobbin thread will comeup with it through the hole in the throatplate as shown in Fig 22
Lay both threads back under thepresser foot diagonally across the feedto right or left depending upon whichside of the needle the material is to belocated so that when the presser foot islowered the threads will be firmly heldbetween the feed and the presser foot
Fig 22 Drawing Up the Under Thread
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Start Sewing
Be sure to have thread take-up lever 5Fig 14 at its highest position
Place the material beneath the presserfoot Q Fig 23 then turn the had wheelto bring the point of the needle into thematerial then lower the presser foot bymeans of presser bar lifter R and startto sew
Some materials such as soft finishedsheers nylons jerseys tricots andother elastic and sponge textilesrequire a slight amount of assistance infeeding during sewing operations
Fig 23 To Start Sewing
However too much pull will stretch the seam create irregular stitching and bendthe needle Most materials require only guiding for best sewing results
The machine will sew its own thread when sewing from one piece of material toanother However it is not recommended that any sewing be done with athreaded machine unless some fabric is under the presser foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Turn a Corner
Stop the machine when the needle eye making its upward stroke is still in thefabric Raise the presser foot and turn the work as desired using the needle as apivot then lower the presser foot and resume sewing
Basting
The longest stitch No 6 on the stitch indicator plate is satisfactory for bastingand is easily removed by clipping every sixth stitch and withdrawing the longcontinuous thread Machine basting is firmer more even and much quicker thanhand basting
To Sew Bias Seams
Use a short stitch when sewing bias or curved seams to increase the elasticity ofthe seam and to prevent seam failure under strain No change in tensions isrequired
To Remove the Work
Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever 5 Fig 14 at its highest point Raise the presser foot by means of presser bar lifter R Fig 23 draw the fabricback and to the left and sever the threads on thread cutter S Fig 23 Placeends of threads under presser foot
Caution When the machine is not in use raise the presser foot by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury to the presser foot and the feed T Fig 23
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Length of Stitch The machine is adjustable to makefrom 6 to 30 stitches per inch asindicated by the numerals on the stitchindicator plate
The red dot indicator U Fig 24 in theslot at the left indicates the stitchsetting To regulate the length of stitchturn thumb nut V Fig 24 on leveraway from the stitch indicator plate asfar as necessary Move the lever at Vuntil the red dot indicator U is at thedesired stitch setting Then turn thumbnut V inward until it touches indicatorplate The machine is not set to stitchthe desired number of stitches per inchin a forward direction
To Reverse the Direction of Feed
For Back Tacking raise the lever to theupper end of the indicator plate Themachine will then stitch in a reversedirection making it easy to fasten theends of seams
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Pressure on PresserFoot
For ordinary sewing the pressure ofthe presser foot on the material seldomrequires changing Heavy materialsrequire more pressure than light weightmaterials The pressure should be onlyheavy enough to prevent the materialfrom rising with the needle and toenable the feed to move the work alongevenly without side creeping Toincrease the pressure turn the thumbscrew W Fig 25 clockwise ordownward To lighten the pressureturn the thumb screw W so that itscrews upward
FIG 25 Thumb Screw for Regulating Pressureon Presser Foot
Thread Tension
For perfect stitching the tension on theneedle and bobbin threads must beheavy enough to pull the threads to thecenter of the thickness of the materialand make a firm stitch as shown in Fig26 If the needle lies straight along thetop side of the material the tension onthe needle thread is too heavy or thetension on the bobbin thread is toolight as shown in Fig 27 If the bobbinthread lies straight along the undersideof the material the tension on theneedle thread is too light or the tensionon the bobbin thread is too heavy asshown inFig 28
FIG 26 Perfect Stitching
FIG 27 Imperfect Stitching
FIG 28 Imperfect Stitching
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread canbe tested only when the presser foot isdown
The numerals 0 to 9 dial X Fig 29indicate the different degrees of tensionthat can be obtained The numbers donot denote size of thread or amount oftension
When the tension has been correctlyset note the number at the indicatorline Y Fig 29 so that this setting maybe regained should the tension bealtered for special work
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To increase tension turn the thumbnut Z Fig 29 gradually to the right(clockwise) until the required tension isobtained Each higher number denotesincreased tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99KTo oil the parts underneath the bed of the machine turn the machine back on itshinges and apply oil to the oil holes and bearings indicated inFig 12
To oil the stand apply a drop of oil to the centers upon which the band wheel andtreadle work and to both ends of the pitman rod connecting the treadle with theband wheel
After oiling run the machine rapidly for a few minutes so that the oil may reachthe bearings Neglect to oil the machine will shorten its life and cause youtrouble and annoyance
Always use SINGER oil Inferior oil clogs the bearings prevents efficientworking and causes rapid wear of the mechanism
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Class 99 amp 99K
Needles and Thread
For perfect stitching thread should be selected according to fabric to be stitchedand needle must be correct size for thread which must pass freely through eye ofthe needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Set the Needle
Select the correct needle according to the table on page 11 Be sure that theneedle is not blunt or bent Raise the needle bar to its highest position andloosen thumb screw H Fig 13 in needle clamp Push needle with its flat sidetoward the right up into needle clamp as far as it will go then tighten the thumbscrew H A screwdriver slot is provided for stronger clamping of needle requiredfor attachments driven from needle clamp hub
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Class 99 amp 99K
UPPER THREADING
See Fig 14 Place spool of thread onspool pin Raise take-up lever 5 to itshighest point Lead thread into threadguide 1 down and from right to leftbetween tension discs 2 into the loopof the take-up spring 3 under the slackthread regulator 4 (not through theeye in the thread regulator) up andfrom right to left through hole in take-uplever 5 down through guide 6 on theface plate down through the lower wireguide 7 from left to right through theeye of the needle 8
Draw about two inches of threadthrough the eye of the needle withwhich to begin to sew
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Remove the Bobbin
Raise needle to its highest point Draw slide plate to the left Press bobbinejector J Fig 15 to raise bobbin for easy removal
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Wind the Bobbin
Hold the hand wheel K Fig 16 with left hand and with right hand loosen stopmotion screw L to disengage stitching mechanism
Place empty bobbin on bobbin winder spindle see Fig 16 Turn bobbin until holein right side engages pin in spindle Press bobbin winder downward until latch MFig 17 engages In this position latch will hold bobbin in place
Place spool of thread on spool pin 1
Draw thread through guide 2 on arm of machine Lead thread from front to rearthrough lower notch of guide 3
Thread through O Fig 17 in left side of bobbin from inside The end of thethread must be held by hand until it is broken off by the rotation of the bobbin
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Class 99 amp 99K
Fig 17 shows bobbin winder in position for winding When sufficient thread hasbeen wound the winder is automatically released
Remove filled bobbin from bobbin winder spindle and re-tighten stop motionscrew L Fig 16
If thread does not wind evenly on bobbin loosen screw which holds thread guide3 Fig 16 Turn guide to left if bobbin winds high on right Turn guide to left isbobbin winds high on left When guide is properly centered thread will windevenly across bobbin Tighten guide clamping screw
If the pressure of bobbin winder pulley N Fig 17 against hub of hand wheel isinsufficient for winding the bobbin press down winder until latch M drops downand holds it then loosen screw P2 With the forefinger push back upper end ofslotted plate P1 as far as it will go and at the same time with the thumb presswinder against ledge of wheel Then tighten screw P2 securely Afterwardsraise latch to release winder from contact with hand wheel
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Class 99 amp99K
To Replace the Bobbin
Hold the bobbin between the thumband forefinger of the left hand with thethread leading on top from the righttoward the left as shown inFig 18 Place bobbin into the bobbin case anddraw the thread into the slot 1 Fig 19in the bobbin case as shown Draw the thread backward between thebobbin case and the tension spring untilit reaches the notch 2 Fig 20 then pullthe thread toward the right as shown inFig 20 When closing the slide place thread upthrough slot 3 Fig 21 as shown
FIG 18 Replacing the Bobbin
FIG 19 Threading the Bobbin Case
FIG 20 Bobbin Case Threaded FIG 21 Under Threading Completed
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Prepare for Sewing
Have the thread take-up lever at itshighest position With the left handhold the end of the needle threadleaving it slack from the hand to theneedle Turn the hand wheel over toward youuntil the needle moves down and upagain to its highest point thus catchingthe bobbin thread Draw up the needlethread and the bobbin thread will comeup with it through the hole in the throatplate as shown in Fig 22
Lay both threads back under thepresser foot diagonally across the feedto right or left depending upon whichside of the needle the material is to belocated so that when the presser foot islowered the threads will be firmly heldbetween the feed and the presser foot
Fig 22 Drawing Up the Under Thread
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Start Sewing
Be sure to have thread take-up lever 5Fig 14 at its highest position
Place the material beneath the presserfoot Q Fig 23 then turn the had wheelto bring the point of the needle into thematerial then lower the presser foot bymeans of presser bar lifter R and startto sew
Some materials such as soft finishedsheers nylons jerseys tricots andother elastic and sponge textilesrequire a slight amount of assistance infeeding during sewing operations
Fig 23 To Start Sewing
However too much pull will stretch the seam create irregular stitching and bendthe needle Most materials require only guiding for best sewing results
The machine will sew its own thread when sewing from one piece of material toanother However it is not recommended that any sewing be done with athreaded machine unless some fabric is under the presser foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Turn a Corner
Stop the machine when the needle eye making its upward stroke is still in thefabric Raise the presser foot and turn the work as desired using the needle as apivot then lower the presser foot and resume sewing
Basting
The longest stitch No 6 on the stitch indicator plate is satisfactory for bastingand is easily removed by clipping every sixth stitch and withdrawing the longcontinuous thread Machine basting is firmer more even and much quicker thanhand basting
To Sew Bias Seams
Use a short stitch when sewing bias or curved seams to increase the elasticity ofthe seam and to prevent seam failure under strain No change in tensions isrequired
To Remove the Work
Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever 5 Fig 14 at its highest point Raise the presser foot by means of presser bar lifter R Fig 23 draw the fabricback and to the left and sever the threads on thread cutter S Fig 23 Placeends of threads under presser foot
Caution When the machine is not in use raise the presser foot by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury to the presser foot and the feed T Fig 23
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Length of Stitch The machine is adjustable to makefrom 6 to 30 stitches per inch asindicated by the numerals on the stitchindicator plate
The red dot indicator U Fig 24 in theslot at the left indicates the stitchsetting To regulate the length of stitchturn thumb nut V Fig 24 on leveraway from the stitch indicator plate asfar as necessary Move the lever at Vuntil the red dot indicator U is at thedesired stitch setting Then turn thumbnut V inward until it touches indicatorplate The machine is not set to stitchthe desired number of stitches per inchin a forward direction
To Reverse the Direction of Feed
For Back Tacking raise the lever to theupper end of the indicator plate Themachine will then stitch in a reversedirection making it easy to fasten theends of seams
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Pressure on PresserFoot
For ordinary sewing the pressure ofthe presser foot on the material seldomrequires changing Heavy materialsrequire more pressure than light weightmaterials The pressure should be onlyheavy enough to prevent the materialfrom rising with the needle and toenable the feed to move the work alongevenly without side creeping Toincrease the pressure turn the thumbscrew W Fig 25 clockwise ordownward To lighten the pressureturn the thumb screw W so that itscrews upward
FIG 25 Thumb Screw for Regulating Pressureon Presser Foot
Thread Tension
For perfect stitching the tension on theneedle and bobbin threads must beheavy enough to pull the threads to thecenter of the thickness of the materialand make a firm stitch as shown in Fig26 If the needle lies straight along thetop side of the material the tension onthe needle thread is too heavy or thetension on the bobbin thread is toolight as shown in Fig 27 If the bobbinthread lies straight along the undersideof the material the tension on theneedle thread is too light or the tensionon the bobbin thread is too heavy asshown inFig 28
FIG 26 Perfect Stitching
FIG 27 Imperfect Stitching
FIG 28 Imperfect Stitching
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread canbe tested only when the presser foot isdown
The numerals 0 to 9 dial X Fig 29indicate the different degrees of tensionthat can be obtained The numbers donot denote size of thread or amount oftension
When the tension has been correctlyset note the number at the indicatorline Y Fig 29 so that this setting maybe regained should the tension bealtered for special work
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To increase tension turn the thumbnut Z Fig 29 gradually to the right(clockwise) until the required tension isobtained Each higher number denotesincreased tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
Needles and Thread
For perfect stitching thread should be selected according to fabric to be stitchedand needle must be correct size for thread which must pass freely through eye ofthe needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Set the Needle
Select the correct needle according to the table on page 11 Be sure that theneedle is not blunt or bent Raise the needle bar to its highest position andloosen thumb screw H Fig 13 in needle clamp Push needle with its flat sidetoward the right up into needle clamp as far as it will go then tighten the thumbscrew H A screwdriver slot is provided for stronger clamping of needle requiredfor attachments driven from needle clamp hub
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Class 99 amp 99K
UPPER THREADING
See Fig 14 Place spool of thread onspool pin Raise take-up lever 5 to itshighest point Lead thread into threadguide 1 down and from right to leftbetween tension discs 2 into the loopof the take-up spring 3 under the slackthread regulator 4 (not through theeye in the thread regulator) up andfrom right to left through hole in take-uplever 5 down through guide 6 on theface plate down through the lower wireguide 7 from left to right through theeye of the needle 8
Draw about two inches of threadthrough the eye of the needle withwhich to begin to sew
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Remove the Bobbin
Raise needle to its highest point Draw slide plate to the left Press bobbinejector J Fig 15 to raise bobbin for easy removal
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Wind the Bobbin
Hold the hand wheel K Fig 16 with left hand and with right hand loosen stopmotion screw L to disengage stitching mechanism
Place empty bobbin on bobbin winder spindle see Fig 16 Turn bobbin until holein right side engages pin in spindle Press bobbin winder downward until latch MFig 17 engages In this position latch will hold bobbin in place
Place spool of thread on spool pin 1
Draw thread through guide 2 on arm of machine Lead thread from front to rearthrough lower notch of guide 3
Thread through O Fig 17 in left side of bobbin from inside The end of thethread must be held by hand until it is broken off by the rotation of the bobbin
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Class 99 amp 99K
Fig 17 shows bobbin winder in position for winding When sufficient thread hasbeen wound the winder is automatically released
Remove filled bobbin from bobbin winder spindle and re-tighten stop motionscrew L Fig 16
If thread does not wind evenly on bobbin loosen screw which holds thread guide3 Fig 16 Turn guide to left if bobbin winds high on right Turn guide to left isbobbin winds high on left When guide is properly centered thread will windevenly across bobbin Tighten guide clamping screw
If the pressure of bobbin winder pulley N Fig 17 against hub of hand wheel isinsufficient for winding the bobbin press down winder until latch M drops downand holds it then loosen screw P2 With the forefinger push back upper end ofslotted plate P1 as far as it will go and at the same time with the thumb presswinder against ledge of wheel Then tighten screw P2 securely Afterwardsraise latch to release winder from contact with hand wheel
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Class 99 amp99K
To Replace the Bobbin
Hold the bobbin between the thumband forefinger of the left hand with thethread leading on top from the righttoward the left as shown inFig 18 Place bobbin into the bobbin case anddraw the thread into the slot 1 Fig 19in the bobbin case as shown Draw the thread backward between thebobbin case and the tension spring untilit reaches the notch 2 Fig 20 then pullthe thread toward the right as shown inFig 20 When closing the slide place thread upthrough slot 3 Fig 21 as shown
FIG 18 Replacing the Bobbin
FIG 19 Threading the Bobbin Case
FIG 20 Bobbin Case Threaded FIG 21 Under Threading Completed
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Prepare for Sewing
Have the thread take-up lever at itshighest position With the left handhold the end of the needle threadleaving it slack from the hand to theneedle Turn the hand wheel over toward youuntil the needle moves down and upagain to its highest point thus catchingthe bobbin thread Draw up the needlethread and the bobbin thread will comeup with it through the hole in the throatplate as shown in Fig 22
Lay both threads back under thepresser foot diagonally across the feedto right or left depending upon whichside of the needle the material is to belocated so that when the presser foot islowered the threads will be firmly heldbetween the feed and the presser foot
Fig 22 Drawing Up the Under Thread
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Start Sewing
Be sure to have thread take-up lever 5Fig 14 at its highest position
Place the material beneath the presserfoot Q Fig 23 then turn the had wheelto bring the point of the needle into thematerial then lower the presser foot bymeans of presser bar lifter R and startto sew
Some materials such as soft finishedsheers nylons jerseys tricots andother elastic and sponge textilesrequire a slight amount of assistance infeeding during sewing operations
Fig 23 To Start Sewing
However too much pull will stretch the seam create irregular stitching and bendthe needle Most materials require only guiding for best sewing results
The machine will sew its own thread when sewing from one piece of material toanother However it is not recommended that any sewing be done with athreaded machine unless some fabric is under the presser foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Turn a Corner
Stop the machine when the needle eye making its upward stroke is still in thefabric Raise the presser foot and turn the work as desired using the needle as apivot then lower the presser foot and resume sewing
Basting
The longest stitch No 6 on the stitch indicator plate is satisfactory for bastingand is easily removed by clipping every sixth stitch and withdrawing the longcontinuous thread Machine basting is firmer more even and much quicker thanhand basting
To Sew Bias Seams
Use a short stitch when sewing bias or curved seams to increase the elasticity ofthe seam and to prevent seam failure under strain No change in tensions isrequired
To Remove the Work
Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever 5 Fig 14 at its highest point Raise the presser foot by means of presser bar lifter R Fig 23 draw the fabricback and to the left and sever the threads on thread cutter S Fig 23 Placeends of threads under presser foot
Caution When the machine is not in use raise the presser foot by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury to the presser foot and the feed T Fig 23
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Length of Stitch The machine is adjustable to makefrom 6 to 30 stitches per inch asindicated by the numerals on the stitchindicator plate
The red dot indicator U Fig 24 in theslot at the left indicates the stitchsetting To regulate the length of stitchturn thumb nut V Fig 24 on leveraway from the stitch indicator plate asfar as necessary Move the lever at Vuntil the red dot indicator U is at thedesired stitch setting Then turn thumbnut V inward until it touches indicatorplate The machine is not set to stitchthe desired number of stitches per inchin a forward direction
To Reverse the Direction of Feed
For Back Tacking raise the lever to theupper end of the indicator plate Themachine will then stitch in a reversedirection making it easy to fasten theends of seams
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Pressure on PresserFoot
For ordinary sewing the pressure ofthe presser foot on the material seldomrequires changing Heavy materialsrequire more pressure than light weightmaterials The pressure should be onlyheavy enough to prevent the materialfrom rising with the needle and toenable the feed to move the work alongevenly without side creeping Toincrease the pressure turn the thumbscrew W Fig 25 clockwise ordownward To lighten the pressureturn the thumb screw W so that itscrews upward
FIG 25 Thumb Screw for Regulating Pressureon Presser Foot
Thread Tension
For perfect stitching the tension on theneedle and bobbin threads must beheavy enough to pull the threads to thecenter of the thickness of the materialand make a firm stitch as shown in Fig26 If the needle lies straight along thetop side of the material the tension onthe needle thread is too heavy or thetension on the bobbin thread is toolight as shown in Fig 27 If the bobbinthread lies straight along the undersideof the material the tension on theneedle thread is too light or the tensionon the bobbin thread is too heavy asshown inFig 28
FIG 26 Perfect Stitching
FIG 27 Imperfect Stitching
FIG 28 Imperfect Stitching
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread canbe tested only when the presser foot isdown
The numerals 0 to 9 dial X Fig 29indicate the different degrees of tensionthat can be obtained The numbers donot denote size of thread or amount oftension
When the tension has been correctlyset note the number at the indicatorline Y Fig 29 so that this setting maybe regained should the tension bealtered for special work
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To increase tension turn the thumbnut Z Fig 29 gradually to the right(clockwise) until the required tension isobtained Each higher number denotesincreased tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Set the Needle
Select the correct needle according to the table on page 11 Be sure that theneedle is not blunt or bent Raise the needle bar to its highest position andloosen thumb screw H Fig 13 in needle clamp Push needle with its flat sidetoward the right up into needle clamp as far as it will go then tighten the thumbscrew H A screwdriver slot is provided for stronger clamping of needle requiredfor attachments driven from needle clamp hub
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Class 99 amp 99K
UPPER THREADING
See Fig 14 Place spool of thread onspool pin Raise take-up lever 5 to itshighest point Lead thread into threadguide 1 down and from right to leftbetween tension discs 2 into the loopof the take-up spring 3 under the slackthread regulator 4 (not through theeye in the thread regulator) up andfrom right to left through hole in take-uplever 5 down through guide 6 on theface plate down through the lower wireguide 7 from left to right through theeye of the needle 8
Draw about two inches of threadthrough the eye of the needle withwhich to begin to sew
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Remove the Bobbin
Raise needle to its highest point Draw slide plate to the left Press bobbinejector J Fig 15 to raise bobbin for easy removal
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Wind the Bobbin
Hold the hand wheel K Fig 16 with left hand and with right hand loosen stopmotion screw L to disengage stitching mechanism
Place empty bobbin on bobbin winder spindle see Fig 16 Turn bobbin until holein right side engages pin in spindle Press bobbin winder downward until latch MFig 17 engages In this position latch will hold bobbin in place
Place spool of thread on spool pin 1
Draw thread through guide 2 on arm of machine Lead thread from front to rearthrough lower notch of guide 3
Thread through O Fig 17 in left side of bobbin from inside The end of thethread must be held by hand until it is broken off by the rotation of the bobbin
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Class 99 amp 99K
Fig 17 shows bobbin winder in position for winding When sufficient thread hasbeen wound the winder is automatically released
Remove filled bobbin from bobbin winder spindle and re-tighten stop motionscrew L Fig 16
If thread does not wind evenly on bobbin loosen screw which holds thread guide3 Fig 16 Turn guide to left if bobbin winds high on right Turn guide to left isbobbin winds high on left When guide is properly centered thread will windevenly across bobbin Tighten guide clamping screw
If the pressure of bobbin winder pulley N Fig 17 against hub of hand wheel isinsufficient for winding the bobbin press down winder until latch M drops downand holds it then loosen screw P2 With the forefinger push back upper end ofslotted plate P1 as far as it will go and at the same time with the thumb presswinder against ledge of wheel Then tighten screw P2 securely Afterwardsraise latch to release winder from contact with hand wheel
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Class 99 amp99K
To Replace the Bobbin
Hold the bobbin between the thumband forefinger of the left hand with thethread leading on top from the righttoward the left as shown inFig 18 Place bobbin into the bobbin case anddraw the thread into the slot 1 Fig 19in the bobbin case as shown Draw the thread backward between thebobbin case and the tension spring untilit reaches the notch 2 Fig 20 then pullthe thread toward the right as shown inFig 20 When closing the slide place thread upthrough slot 3 Fig 21 as shown
FIG 18 Replacing the Bobbin
FIG 19 Threading the Bobbin Case
FIG 20 Bobbin Case Threaded FIG 21 Under Threading Completed
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Prepare for Sewing
Have the thread take-up lever at itshighest position With the left handhold the end of the needle threadleaving it slack from the hand to theneedle Turn the hand wheel over toward youuntil the needle moves down and upagain to its highest point thus catchingthe bobbin thread Draw up the needlethread and the bobbin thread will comeup with it through the hole in the throatplate as shown in Fig 22
Lay both threads back under thepresser foot diagonally across the feedto right or left depending upon whichside of the needle the material is to belocated so that when the presser foot islowered the threads will be firmly heldbetween the feed and the presser foot
Fig 22 Drawing Up the Under Thread
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Start Sewing
Be sure to have thread take-up lever 5Fig 14 at its highest position
Place the material beneath the presserfoot Q Fig 23 then turn the had wheelto bring the point of the needle into thematerial then lower the presser foot bymeans of presser bar lifter R and startto sew
Some materials such as soft finishedsheers nylons jerseys tricots andother elastic and sponge textilesrequire a slight amount of assistance infeeding during sewing operations
Fig 23 To Start Sewing
However too much pull will stretch the seam create irregular stitching and bendthe needle Most materials require only guiding for best sewing results
The machine will sew its own thread when sewing from one piece of material toanother However it is not recommended that any sewing be done with athreaded machine unless some fabric is under the presser foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Turn a Corner
Stop the machine when the needle eye making its upward stroke is still in thefabric Raise the presser foot and turn the work as desired using the needle as apivot then lower the presser foot and resume sewing
Basting
The longest stitch No 6 on the stitch indicator plate is satisfactory for bastingand is easily removed by clipping every sixth stitch and withdrawing the longcontinuous thread Machine basting is firmer more even and much quicker thanhand basting
To Sew Bias Seams
Use a short stitch when sewing bias or curved seams to increase the elasticity ofthe seam and to prevent seam failure under strain No change in tensions isrequired
To Remove the Work
Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever 5 Fig 14 at its highest point Raise the presser foot by means of presser bar lifter R Fig 23 draw the fabricback and to the left and sever the threads on thread cutter S Fig 23 Placeends of threads under presser foot
Caution When the machine is not in use raise the presser foot by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury to the presser foot and the feed T Fig 23
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Length of Stitch The machine is adjustable to makefrom 6 to 30 stitches per inch asindicated by the numerals on the stitchindicator plate
The red dot indicator U Fig 24 in theslot at the left indicates the stitchsetting To regulate the length of stitchturn thumb nut V Fig 24 on leveraway from the stitch indicator plate asfar as necessary Move the lever at Vuntil the red dot indicator U is at thedesired stitch setting Then turn thumbnut V inward until it touches indicatorplate The machine is not set to stitchthe desired number of stitches per inchin a forward direction
To Reverse the Direction of Feed
For Back Tacking raise the lever to theupper end of the indicator plate Themachine will then stitch in a reversedirection making it easy to fasten theends of seams
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Pressure on PresserFoot
For ordinary sewing the pressure ofthe presser foot on the material seldomrequires changing Heavy materialsrequire more pressure than light weightmaterials The pressure should be onlyheavy enough to prevent the materialfrom rising with the needle and toenable the feed to move the work alongevenly without side creeping Toincrease the pressure turn the thumbscrew W Fig 25 clockwise ordownward To lighten the pressureturn the thumb screw W so that itscrews upward
FIG 25 Thumb Screw for Regulating Pressureon Presser Foot
Thread Tension
For perfect stitching the tension on theneedle and bobbin threads must beheavy enough to pull the threads to thecenter of the thickness of the materialand make a firm stitch as shown in Fig26 If the needle lies straight along thetop side of the material the tension onthe needle thread is too heavy or thetension on the bobbin thread is toolight as shown in Fig 27 If the bobbinthread lies straight along the undersideof the material the tension on theneedle thread is too light or the tensionon the bobbin thread is too heavy asshown inFig 28
FIG 26 Perfect Stitching
FIG 27 Imperfect Stitching
FIG 28 Imperfect Stitching
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread canbe tested only when the presser foot isdown
The numerals 0 to 9 dial X Fig 29indicate the different degrees of tensionthat can be obtained The numbers donot denote size of thread or amount oftension
When the tension has been correctlyset note the number at the indicatorline Y Fig 29 so that this setting maybe regained should the tension bealtered for special work
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To increase tension turn the thumbnut Z Fig 29 gradually to the right(clockwise) until the required tension isobtained Each higher number denotesincreased tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
UPPER THREADING
See Fig 14 Place spool of thread onspool pin Raise take-up lever 5 to itshighest point Lead thread into threadguide 1 down and from right to leftbetween tension discs 2 into the loopof the take-up spring 3 under the slackthread regulator 4 (not through theeye in the thread regulator) up andfrom right to left through hole in take-uplever 5 down through guide 6 on theface plate down through the lower wireguide 7 from left to right through theeye of the needle 8
Draw about two inches of threadthrough the eye of the needle withwhich to begin to sew
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Remove the Bobbin
Raise needle to its highest point Draw slide plate to the left Press bobbinejector J Fig 15 to raise bobbin for easy removal
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Wind the Bobbin
Hold the hand wheel K Fig 16 with left hand and with right hand loosen stopmotion screw L to disengage stitching mechanism
Place empty bobbin on bobbin winder spindle see Fig 16 Turn bobbin until holein right side engages pin in spindle Press bobbin winder downward until latch MFig 17 engages In this position latch will hold bobbin in place
Place spool of thread on spool pin 1
Draw thread through guide 2 on arm of machine Lead thread from front to rearthrough lower notch of guide 3
Thread through O Fig 17 in left side of bobbin from inside The end of thethread must be held by hand until it is broken off by the rotation of the bobbin
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Class 99 amp 99K
Fig 17 shows bobbin winder in position for winding When sufficient thread hasbeen wound the winder is automatically released
Remove filled bobbin from bobbin winder spindle and re-tighten stop motionscrew L Fig 16
If thread does not wind evenly on bobbin loosen screw which holds thread guide3 Fig 16 Turn guide to left if bobbin winds high on right Turn guide to left isbobbin winds high on left When guide is properly centered thread will windevenly across bobbin Tighten guide clamping screw
If the pressure of bobbin winder pulley N Fig 17 against hub of hand wheel isinsufficient for winding the bobbin press down winder until latch M drops downand holds it then loosen screw P2 With the forefinger push back upper end ofslotted plate P1 as far as it will go and at the same time with the thumb presswinder against ledge of wheel Then tighten screw P2 securely Afterwardsraise latch to release winder from contact with hand wheel
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Class 99 amp99K
To Replace the Bobbin
Hold the bobbin between the thumband forefinger of the left hand with thethread leading on top from the righttoward the left as shown inFig 18 Place bobbin into the bobbin case anddraw the thread into the slot 1 Fig 19in the bobbin case as shown Draw the thread backward between thebobbin case and the tension spring untilit reaches the notch 2 Fig 20 then pullthe thread toward the right as shown inFig 20 When closing the slide place thread upthrough slot 3 Fig 21 as shown
FIG 18 Replacing the Bobbin
FIG 19 Threading the Bobbin Case
FIG 20 Bobbin Case Threaded FIG 21 Under Threading Completed
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Prepare for Sewing
Have the thread take-up lever at itshighest position With the left handhold the end of the needle threadleaving it slack from the hand to theneedle Turn the hand wheel over toward youuntil the needle moves down and upagain to its highest point thus catchingthe bobbin thread Draw up the needlethread and the bobbin thread will comeup with it through the hole in the throatplate as shown in Fig 22
Lay both threads back under thepresser foot diagonally across the feedto right or left depending upon whichside of the needle the material is to belocated so that when the presser foot islowered the threads will be firmly heldbetween the feed and the presser foot
Fig 22 Drawing Up the Under Thread
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Start Sewing
Be sure to have thread take-up lever 5Fig 14 at its highest position
Place the material beneath the presserfoot Q Fig 23 then turn the had wheelto bring the point of the needle into thematerial then lower the presser foot bymeans of presser bar lifter R and startto sew
Some materials such as soft finishedsheers nylons jerseys tricots andother elastic and sponge textilesrequire a slight amount of assistance infeeding during sewing operations
Fig 23 To Start Sewing
However too much pull will stretch the seam create irregular stitching and bendthe needle Most materials require only guiding for best sewing results
The machine will sew its own thread when sewing from one piece of material toanother However it is not recommended that any sewing be done with athreaded machine unless some fabric is under the presser foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Turn a Corner
Stop the machine when the needle eye making its upward stroke is still in thefabric Raise the presser foot and turn the work as desired using the needle as apivot then lower the presser foot and resume sewing
Basting
The longest stitch No 6 on the stitch indicator plate is satisfactory for bastingand is easily removed by clipping every sixth stitch and withdrawing the longcontinuous thread Machine basting is firmer more even and much quicker thanhand basting
To Sew Bias Seams
Use a short stitch when sewing bias or curved seams to increase the elasticity ofthe seam and to prevent seam failure under strain No change in tensions isrequired
To Remove the Work
Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever 5 Fig 14 at its highest point Raise the presser foot by means of presser bar lifter R Fig 23 draw the fabricback and to the left and sever the threads on thread cutter S Fig 23 Placeends of threads under presser foot
Caution When the machine is not in use raise the presser foot by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury to the presser foot and the feed T Fig 23
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Length of Stitch The machine is adjustable to makefrom 6 to 30 stitches per inch asindicated by the numerals on the stitchindicator plate
The red dot indicator U Fig 24 in theslot at the left indicates the stitchsetting To regulate the length of stitchturn thumb nut V Fig 24 on leveraway from the stitch indicator plate asfar as necessary Move the lever at Vuntil the red dot indicator U is at thedesired stitch setting Then turn thumbnut V inward until it touches indicatorplate The machine is not set to stitchthe desired number of stitches per inchin a forward direction
To Reverse the Direction of Feed
For Back Tacking raise the lever to theupper end of the indicator plate Themachine will then stitch in a reversedirection making it easy to fasten theends of seams
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Pressure on PresserFoot
For ordinary sewing the pressure ofthe presser foot on the material seldomrequires changing Heavy materialsrequire more pressure than light weightmaterials The pressure should be onlyheavy enough to prevent the materialfrom rising with the needle and toenable the feed to move the work alongevenly without side creeping Toincrease the pressure turn the thumbscrew W Fig 25 clockwise ordownward To lighten the pressureturn the thumb screw W so that itscrews upward
FIG 25 Thumb Screw for Regulating Pressureon Presser Foot
Thread Tension
For perfect stitching the tension on theneedle and bobbin threads must beheavy enough to pull the threads to thecenter of the thickness of the materialand make a firm stitch as shown in Fig26 If the needle lies straight along thetop side of the material the tension onthe needle thread is too heavy or thetension on the bobbin thread is toolight as shown in Fig 27 If the bobbinthread lies straight along the undersideof the material the tension on theneedle thread is too light or the tensionon the bobbin thread is too heavy asshown inFig 28
FIG 26 Perfect Stitching
FIG 27 Imperfect Stitching
FIG 28 Imperfect Stitching
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread canbe tested only when the presser foot isdown
The numerals 0 to 9 dial X Fig 29indicate the different degrees of tensionthat can be obtained The numbers donot denote size of thread or amount oftension
When the tension has been correctlyset note the number at the indicatorline Y Fig 29 so that this setting maybe regained should the tension bealtered for special work
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To increase tension turn the thumbnut Z Fig 29 gradually to the right(clockwise) until the required tension isobtained Each higher number denotesincreased tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Remove the Bobbin
Raise needle to its highest point Draw slide plate to the left Press bobbinejector J Fig 15 to raise bobbin for easy removal
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Wind the Bobbin
Hold the hand wheel K Fig 16 with left hand and with right hand loosen stopmotion screw L to disengage stitching mechanism
Place empty bobbin on bobbin winder spindle see Fig 16 Turn bobbin until holein right side engages pin in spindle Press bobbin winder downward until latch MFig 17 engages In this position latch will hold bobbin in place
Place spool of thread on spool pin 1
Draw thread through guide 2 on arm of machine Lead thread from front to rearthrough lower notch of guide 3
Thread through O Fig 17 in left side of bobbin from inside The end of thethread must be held by hand until it is broken off by the rotation of the bobbin
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Class 99 amp 99K
Fig 17 shows bobbin winder in position for winding When sufficient thread hasbeen wound the winder is automatically released
Remove filled bobbin from bobbin winder spindle and re-tighten stop motionscrew L Fig 16
If thread does not wind evenly on bobbin loosen screw which holds thread guide3 Fig 16 Turn guide to left if bobbin winds high on right Turn guide to left isbobbin winds high on left When guide is properly centered thread will windevenly across bobbin Tighten guide clamping screw
If the pressure of bobbin winder pulley N Fig 17 against hub of hand wheel isinsufficient for winding the bobbin press down winder until latch M drops downand holds it then loosen screw P2 With the forefinger push back upper end ofslotted plate P1 as far as it will go and at the same time with the thumb presswinder against ledge of wheel Then tighten screw P2 securely Afterwardsraise latch to release winder from contact with hand wheel
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Class 99 amp99K
To Replace the Bobbin
Hold the bobbin between the thumband forefinger of the left hand with thethread leading on top from the righttoward the left as shown inFig 18 Place bobbin into the bobbin case anddraw the thread into the slot 1 Fig 19in the bobbin case as shown Draw the thread backward between thebobbin case and the tension spring untilit reaches the notch 2 Fig 20 then pullthe thread toward the right as shown inFig 20 When closing the slide place thread upthrough slot 3 Fig 21 as shown
FIG 18 Replacing the Bobbin
FIG 19 Threading the Bobbin Case
FIG 20 Bobbin Case Threaded FIG 21 Under Threading Completed
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Prepare for Sewing
Have the thread take-up lever at itshighest position With the left handhold the end of the needle threadleaving it slack from the hand to theneedle Turn the hand wheel over toward youuntil the needle moves down and upagain to its highest point thus catchingthe bobbin thread Draw up the needlethread and the bobbin thread will comeup with it through the hole in the throatplate as shown in Fig 22
Lay both threads back under thepresser foot diagonally across the feedto right or left depending upon whichside of the needle the material is to belocated so that when the presser foot islowered the threads will be firmly heldbetween the feed and the presser foot
Fig 22 Drawing Up the Under Thread
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Start Sewing
Be sure to have thread take-up lever 5Fig 14 at its highest position
Place the material beneath the presserfoot Q Fig 23 then turn the had wheelto bring the point of the needle into thematerial then lower the presser foot bymeans of presser bar lifter R and startto sew
Some materials such as soft finishedsheers nylons jerseys tricots andother elastic and sponge textilesrequire a slight amount of assistance infeeding during sewing operations
Fig 23 To Start Sewing
However too much pull will stretch the seam create irregular stitching and bendthe needle Most materials require only guiding for best sewing results
The machine will sew its own thread when sewing from one piece of material toanother However it is not recommended that any sewing be done with athreaded machine unless some fabric is under the presser foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Turn a Corner
Stop the machine when the needle eye making its upward stroke is still in thefabric Raise the presser foot and turn the work as desired using the needle as apivot then lower the presser foot and resume sewing
Basting
The longest stitch No 6 on the stitch indicator plate is satisfactory for bastingand is easily removed by clipping every sixth stitch and withdrawing the longcontinuous thread Machine basting is firmer more even and much quicker thanhand basting
To Sew Bias Seams
Use a short stitch when sewing bias or curved seams to increase the elasticity ofthe seam and to prevent seam failure under strain No change in tensions isrequired
To Remove the Work
Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever 5 Fig 14 at its highest point Raise the presser foot by means of presser bar lifter R Fig 23 draw the fabricback and to the left and sever the threads on thread cutter S Fig 23 Placeends of threads under presser foot
Caution When the machine is not in use raise the presser foot by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury to the presser foot and the feed T Fig 23
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Length of Stitch The machine is adjustable to makefrom 6 to 30 stitches per inch asindicated by the numerals on the stitchindicator plate
The red dot indicator U Fig 24 in theslot at the left indicates the stitchsetting To regulate the length of stitchturn thumb nut V Fig 24 on leveraway from the stitch indicator plate asfar as necessary Move the lever at Vuntil the red dot indicator U is at thedesired stitch setting Then turn thumbnut V inward until it touches indicatorplate The machine is not set to stitchthe desired number of stitches per inchin a forward direction
To Reverse the Direction of Feed
For Back Tacking raise the lever to theupper end of the indicator plate Themachine will then stitch in a reversedirection making it easy to fasten theends of seams
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Pressure on PresserFoot
For ordinary sewing the pressure ofthe presser foot on the material seldomrequires changing Heavy materialsrequire more pressure than light weightmaterials The pressure should be onlyheavy enough to prevent the materialfrom rising with the needle and toenable the feed to move the work alongevenly without side creeping Toincrease the pressure turn the thumbscrew W Fig 25 clockwise ordownward To lighten the pressureturn the thumb screw W so that itscrews upward
FIG 25 Thumb Screw for Regulating Pressureon Presser Foot
Thread Tension
For perfect stitching the tension on theneedle and bobbin threads must beheavy enough to pull the threads to thecenter of the thickness of the materialand make a firm stitch as shown in Fig26 If the needle lies straight along thetop side of the material the tension onthe needle thread is too heavy or thetension on the bobbin thread is toolight as shown in Fig 27 If the bobbinthread lies straight along the undersideof the material the tension on theneedle thread is too light or the tensionon the bobbin thread is too heavy asshown inFig 28
FIG 26 Perfect Stitching
FIG 27 Imperfect Stitching
FIG 28 Imperfect Stitching
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread canbe tested only when the presser foot isdown
The numerals 0 to 9 dial X Fig 29indicate the different degrees of tensionthat can be obtained The numbers donot denote size of thread or amount oftension
When the tension has been correctlyset note the number at the indicatorline Y Fig 29 so that this setting maybe regained should the tension bealtered for special work
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To increase tension turn the thumbnut Z Fig 29 gradually to the right(clockwise) until the required tension isobtained Each higher number denotesincreased tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Wind the Bobbin
Hold the hand wheel K Fig 16 with left hand and with right hand loosen stopmotion screw L to disengage stitching mechanism
Place empty bobbin on bobbin winder spindle see Fig 16 Turn bobbin until holein right side engages pin in spindle Press bobbin winder downward until latch MFig 17 engages In this position latch will hold bobbin in place
Place spool of thread on spool pin 1
Draw thread through guide 2 on arm of machine Lead thread from front to rearthrough lower notch of guide 3
Thread through O Fig 17 in left side of bobbin from inside The end of thethread must be held by hand until it is broken off by the rotation of the bobbin
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Class 99 amp 99K
Fig 17 shows bobbin winder in position for winding When sufficient thread hasbeen wound the winder is automatically released
Remove filled bobbin from bobbin winder spindle and re-tighten stop motionscrew L Fig 16
If thread does not wind evenly on bobbin loosen screw which holds thread guide3 Fig 16 Turn guide to left if bobbin winds high on right Turn guide to left isbobbin winds high on left When guide is properly centered thread will windevenly across bobbin Tighten guide clamping screw
If the pressure of bobbin winder pulley N Fig 17 against hub of hand wheel isinsufficient for winding the bobbin press down winder until latch M drops downand holds it then loosen screw P2 With the forefinger push back upper end ofslotted plate P1 as far as it will go and at the same time with the thumb presswinder against ledge of wheel Then tighten screw P2 securely Afterwardsraise latch to release winder from contact with hand wheel
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Class 99 amp99K
To Replace the Bobbin
Hold the bobbin between the thumband forefinger of the left hand with thethread leading on top from the righttoward the left as shown inFig 18 Place bobbin into the bobbin case anddraw the thread into the slot 1 Fig 19in the bobbin case as shown Draw the thread backward between thebobbin case and the tension spring untilit reaches the notch 2 Fig 20 then pullthe thread toward the right as shown inFig 20 When closing the slide place thread upthrough slot 3 Fig 21 as shown
FIG 18 Replacing the Bobbin
FIG 19 Threading the Bobbin Case
FIG 20 Bobbin Case Threaded FIG 21 Under Threading Completed
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Prepare for Sewing
Have the thread take-up lever at itshighest position With the left handhold the end of the needle threadleaving it slack from the hand to theneedle Turn the hand wheel over toward youuntil the needle moves down and upagain to its highest point thus catchingthe bobbin thread Draw up the needlethread and the bobbin thread will comeup with it through the hole in the throatplate as shown in Fig 22
Lay both threads back under thepresser foot diagonally across the feedto right or left depending upon whichside of the needle the material is to belocated so that when the presser foot islowered the threads will be firmly heldbetween the feed and the presser foot
Fig 22 Drawing Up the Under Thread
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Start Sewing
Be sure to have thread take-up lever 5Fig 14 at its highest position
Place the material beneath the presserfoot Q Fig 23 then turn the had wheelto bring the point of the needle into thematerial then lower the presser foot bymeans of presser bar lifter R and startto sew
Some materials such as soft finishedsheers nylons jerseys tricots andother elastic and sponge textilesrequire a slight amount of assistance infeeding during sewing operations
Fig 23 To Start Sewing
However too much pull will stretch the seam create irregular stitching and bendthe needle Most materials require only guiding for best sewing results
The machine will sew its own thread when sewing from one piece of material toanother However it is not recommended that any sewing be done with athreaded machine unless some fabric is under the presser foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Turn a Corner
Stop the machine when the needle eye making its upward stroke is still in thefabric Raise the presser foot and turn the work as desired using the needle as apivot then lower the presser foot and resume sewing
Basting
The longest stitch No 6 on the stitch indicator plate is satisfactory for bastingand is easily removed by clipping every sixth stitch and withdrawing the longcontinuous thread Machine basting is firmer more even and much quicker thanhand basting
To Sew Bias Seams
Use a short stitch when sewing bias or curved seams to increase the elasticity ofthe seam and to prevent seam failure under strain No change in tensions isrequired
To Remove the Work
Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever 5 Fig 14 at its highest point Raise the presser foot by means of presser bar lifter R Fig 23 draw the fabricback and to the left and sever the threads on thread cutter S Fig 23 Placeends of threads under presser foot
Caution When the machine is not in use raise the presser foot by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury to the presser foot and the feed T Fig 23
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Length of Stitch The machine is adjustable to makefrom 6 to 30 stitches per inch asindicated by the numerals on the stitchindicator plate
The red dot indicator U Fig 24 in theslot at the left indicates the stitchsetting To regulate the length of stitchturn thumb nut V Fig 24 on leveraway from the stitch indicator plate asfar as necessary Move the lever at Vuntil the red dot indicator U is at thedesired stitch setting Then turn thumbnut V inward until it touches indicatorplate The machine is not set to stitchthe desired number of stitches per inchin a forward direction
To Reverse the Direction of Feed
For Back Tacking raise the lever to theupper end of the indicator plate Themachine will then stitch in a reversedirection making it easy to fasten theends of seams
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Pressure on PresserFoot
For ordinary sewing the pressure ofthe presser foot on the material seldomrequires changing Heavy materialsrequire more pressure than light weightmaterials The pressure should be onlyheavy enough to prevent the materialfrom rising with the needle and toenable the feed to move the work alongevenly without side creeping Toincrease the pressure turn the thumbscrew W Fig 25 clockwise ordownward To lighten the pressureturn the thumb screw W so that itscrews upward
FIG 25 Thumb Screw for Regulating Pressureon Presser Foot
Thread Tension
For perfect stitching the tension on theneedle and bobbin threads must beheavy enough to pull the threads to thecenter of the thickness of the materialand make a firm stitch as shown in Fig26 If the needle lies straight along thetop side of the material the tension onthe needle thread is too heavy or thetension on the bobbin thread is toolight as shown in Fig 27 If the bobbinthread lies straight along the undersideof the material the tension on theneedle thread is too light or the tensionon the bobbin thread is too heavy asshown inFig 28
FIG 26 Perfect Stitching
FIG 27 Imperfect Stitching
FIG 28 Imperfect Stitching
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread canbe tested only when the presser foot isdown
The numerals 0 to 9 dial X Fig 29indicate the different degrees of tensionthat can be obtained The numbers donot denote size of thread or amount oftension
When the tension has been correctlyset note the number at the indicatorline Y Fig 29 so that this setting maybe regained should the tension bealtered for special work
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To increase tension turn the thumbnut Z Fig 29 gradually to the right(clockwise) until the required tension isobtained Each higher number denotesincreased tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
Fig 17 shows bobbin winder in position for winding When sufficient thread hasbeen wound the winder is automatically released
Remove filled bobbin from bobbin winder spindle and re-tighten stop motionscrew L Fig 16
If thread does not wind evenly on bobbin loosen screw which holds thread guide3 Fig 16 Turn guide to left if bobbin winds high on right Turn guide to left isbobbin winds high on left When guide is properly centered thread will windevenly across bobbin Tighten guide clamping screw
If the pressure of bobbin winder pulley N Fig 17 against hub of hand wheel isinsufficient for winding the bobbin press down winder until latch M drops downand holds it then loosen screw P2 With the forefinger push back upper end ofslotted plate P1 as far as it will go and at the same time with the thumb presswinder against ledge of wheel Then tighten screw P2 securely Afterwardsraise latch to release winder from contact with hand wheel
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Class 99 amp99K
To Replace the Bobbin
Hold the bobbin between the thumband forefinger of the left hand with thethread leading on top from the righttoward the left as shown inFig 18 Place bobbin into the bobbin case anddraw the thread into the slot 1 Fig 19in the bobbin case as shown Draw the thread backward between thebobbin case and the tension spring untilit reaches the notch 2 Fig 20 then pullthe thread toward the right as shown inFig 20 When closing the slide place thread upthrough slot 3 Fig 21 as shown
FIG 18 Replacing the Bobbin
FIG 19 Threading the Bobbin Case
FIG 20 Bobbin Case Threaded FIG 21 Under Threading Completed
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Prepare for Sewing
Have the thread take-up lever at itshighest position With the left handhold the end of the needle threadleaving it slack from the hand to theneedle Turn the hand wheel over toward youuntil the needle moves down and upagain to its highest point thus catchingthe bobbin thread Draw up the needlethread and the bobbin thread will comeup with it through the hole in the throatplate as shown in Fig 22
Lay both threads back under thepresser foot diagonally across the feedto right or left depending upon whichside of the needle the material is to belocated so that when the presser foot islowered the threads will be firmly heldbetween the feed and the presser foot
Fig 22 Drawing Up the Under Thread
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Start Sewing
Be sure to have thread take-up lever 5Fig 14 at its highest position
Place the material beneath the presserfoot Q Fig 23 then turn the had wheelto bring the point of the needle into thematerial then lower the presser foot bymeans of presser bar lifter R and startto sew
Some materials such as soft finishedsheers nylons jerseys tricots andother elastic and sponge textilesrequire a slight amount of assistance infeeding during sewing operations
Fig 23 To Start Sewing
However too much pull will stretch the seam create irregular stitching and bendthe needle Most materials require only guiding for best sewing results
The machine will sew its own thread when sewing from one piece of material toanother However it is not recommended that any sewing be done with athreaded machine unless some fabric is under the presser foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Turn a Corner
Stop the machine when the needle eye making its upward stroke is still in thefabric Raise the presser foot and turn the work as desired using the needle as apivot then lower the presser foot and resume sewing
Basting
The longest stitch No 6 on the stitch indicator plate is satisfactory for bastingand is easily removed by clipping every sixth stitch and withdrawing the longcontinuous thread Machine basting is firmer more even and much quicker thanhand basting
To Sew Bias Seams
Use a short stitch when sewing bias or curved seams to increase the elasticity ofthe seam and to prevent seam failure under strain No change in tensions isrequired
To Remove the Work
Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever 5 Fig 14 at its highest point Raise the presser foot by means of presser bar lifter R Fig 23 draw the fabricback and to the left and sever the threads on thread cutter S Fig 23 Placeends of threads under presser foot
Caution When the machine is not in use raise the presser foot by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury to the presser foot and the feed T Fig 23
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Length of Stitch The machine is adjustable to makefrom 6 to 30 stitches per inch asindicated by the numerals on the stitchindicator plate
The red dot indicator U Fig 24 in theslot at the left indicates the stitchsetting To regulate the length of stitchturn thumb nut V Fig 24 on leveraway from the stitch indicator plate asfar as necessary Move the lever at Vuntil the red dot indicator U is at thedesired stitch setting Then turn thumbnut V inward until it touches indicatorplate The machine is not set to stitchthe desired number of stitches per inchin a forward direction
To Reverse the Direction of Feed
For Back Tacking raise the lever to theupper end of the indicator plate Themachine will then stitch in a reversedirection making it easy to fasten theends of seams
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Pressure on PresserFoot
For ordinary sewing the pressure ofthe presser foot on the material seldomrequires changing Heavy materialsrequire more pressure than light weightmaterials The pressure should be onlyheavy enough to prevent the materialfrom rising with the needle and toenable the feed to move the work alongevenly without side creeping Toincrease the pressure turn the thumbscrew W Fig 25 clockwise ordownward To lighten the pressureturn the thumb screw W so that itscrews upward
FIG 25 Thumb Screw for Regulating Pressureon Presser Foot
Thread Tension
For perfect stitching the tension on theneedle and bobbin threads must beheavy enough to pull the threads to thecenter of the thickness of the materialand make a firm stitch as shown in Fig26 If the needle lies straight along thetop side of the material the tension onthe needle thread is too heavy or thetension on the bobbin thread is toolight as shown in Fig 27 If the bobbinthread lies straight along the undersideof the material the tension on theneedle thread is too light or the tensionon the bobbin thread is too heavy asshown inFig 28
FIG 26 Perfect Stitching
FIG 27 Imperfect Stitching
FIG 28 Imperfect Stitching
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread canbe tested only when the presser foot isdown
The numerals 0 to 9 dial X Fig 29indicate the different degrees of tensionthat can be obtained The numbers donot denote size of thread or amount oftension
When the tension has been correctlyset note the number at the indicatorline Y Fig 29 so that this setting maybe regained should the tension bealtered for special work
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To increase tension turn the thumbnut Z Fig 29 gradually to the right(clockwise) until the required tension isobtained Each higher number denotesincreased tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp99K
To Replace the Bobbin
Hold the bobbin between the thumband forefinger of the left hand with thethread leading on top from the righttoward the left as shown inFig 18 Place bobbin into the bobbin case anddraw the thread into the slot 1 Fig 19in the bobbin case as shown Draw the thread backward between thebobbin case and the tension spring untilit reaches the notch 2 Fig 20 then pullthe thread toward the right as shown inFig 20 When closing the slide place thread upthrough slot 3 Fig 21 as shown
FIG 18 Replacing the Bobbin
FIG 19 Threading the Bobbin Case
FIG 20 Bobbin Case Threaded FIG 21 Under Threading Completed
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Prepare for Sewing
Have the thread take-up lever at itshighest position With the left handhold the end of the needle threadleaving it slack from the hand to theneedle Turn the hand wheel over toward youuntil the needle moves down and upagain to its highest point thus catchingthe bobbin thread Draw up the needlethread and the bobbin thread will comeup with it through the hole in the throatplate as shown in Fig 22
Lay both threads back under thepresser foot diagonally across the feedto right or left depending upon whichside of the needle the material is to belocated so that when the presser foot islowered the threads will be firmly heldbetween the feed and the presser foot
Fig 22 Drawing Up the Under Thread
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Start Sewing
Be sure to have thread take-up lever 5Fig 14 at its highest position
Place the material beneath the presserfoot Q Fig 23 then turn the had wheelto bring the point of the needle into thematerial then lower the presser foot bymeans of presser bar lifter R and startto sew
Some materials such as soft finishedsheers nylons jerseys tricots andother elastic and sponge textilesrequire a slight amount of assistance infeeding during sewing operations
Fig 23 To Start Sewing
However too much pull will stretch the seam create irregular stitching and bendthe needle Most materials require only guiding for best sewing results
The machine will sew its own thread when sewing from one piece of material toanother However it is not recommended that any sewing be done with athreaded machine unless some fabric is under the presser foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Turn a Corner
Stop the machine when the needle eye making its upward stroke is still in thefabric Raise the presser foot and turn the work as desired using the needle as apivot then lower the presser foot and resume sewing
Basting
The longest stitch No 6 on the stitch indicator plate is satisfactory for bastingand is easily removed by clipping every sixth stitch and withdrawing the longcontinuous thread Machine basting is firmer more even and much quicker thanhand basting
To Sew Bias Seams
Use a short stitch when sewing bias or curved seams to increase the elasticity ofthe seam and to prevent seam failure under strain No change in tensions isrequired
To Remove the Work
Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever 5 Fig 14 at its highest point Raise the presser foot by means of presser bar lifter R Fig 23 draw the fabricback and to the left and sever the threads on thread cutter S Fig 23 Placeends of threads under presser foot
Caution When the machine is not in use raise the presser foot by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury to the presser foot and the feed T Fig 23
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Length of Stitch The machine is adjustable to makefrom 6 to 30 stitches per inch asindicated by the numerals on the stitchindicator plate
The red dot indicator U Fig 24 in theslot at the left indicates the stitchsetting To regulate the length of stitchturn thumb nut V Fig 24 on leveraway from the stitch indicator plate asfar as necessary Move the lever at Vuntil the red dot indicator U is at thedesired stitch setting Then turn thumbnut V inward until it touches indicatorplate The machine is not set to stitchthe desired number of stitches per inchin a forward direction
To Reverse the Direction of Feed
For Back Tacking raise the lever to theupper end of the indicator plate Themachine will then stitch in a reversedirection making it easy to fasten theends of seams
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Pressure on PresserFoot
For ordinary sewing the pressure ofthe presser foot on the material seldomrequires changing Heavy materialsrequire more pressure than light weightmaterials The pressure should be onlyheavy enough to prevent the materialfrom rising with the needle and toenable the feed to move the work alongevenly without side creeping Toincrease the pressure turn the thumbscrew W Fig 25 clockwise ordownward To lighten the pressureturn the thumb screw W so that itscrews upward
FIG 25 Thumb Screw for Regulating Pressureon Presser Foot
Thread Tension
For perfect stitching the tension on theneedle and bobbin threads must beheavy enough to pull the threads to thecenter of the thickness of the materialand make a firm stitch as shown in Fig26 If the needle lies straight along thetop side of the material the tension onthe needle thread is too heavy or thetension on the bobbin thread is toolight as shown in Fig 27 If the bobbinthread lies straight along the undersideof the material the tension on theneedle thread is too light or the tensionon the bobbin thread is too heavy asshown inFig 28
FIG 26 Perfect Stitching
FIG 27 Imperfect Stitching
FIG 28 Imperfect Stitching
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread canbe tested only when the presser foot isdown
The numerals 0 to 9 dial X Fig 29indicate the different degrees of tensionthat can be obtained The numbers donot denote size of thread or amount oftension
When the tension has been correctlyset note the number at the indicatorline Y Fig 29 so that this setting maybe regained should the tension bealtered for special work
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To increase tension turn the thumbnut Z Fig 29 gradually to the right(clockwise) until the required tension isobtained Each higher number denotesincreased tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Prepare for Sewing
Have the thread take-up lever at itshighest position With the left handhold the end of the needle threadleaving it slack from the hand to theneedle Turn the hand wheel over toward youuntil the needle moves down and upagain to its highest point thus catchingthe bobbin thread Draw up the needlethread and the bobbin thread will comeup with it through the hole in the throatplate as shown in Fig 22
Lay both threads back under thepresser foot diagonally across the feedto right or left depending upon whichside of the needle the material is to belocated so that when the presser foot islowered the threads will be firmly heldbetween the feed and the presser foot
Fig 22 Drawing Up the Under Thread
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Start Sewing
Be sure to have thread take-up lever 5Fig 14 at its highest position
Place the material beneath the presserfoot Q Fig 23 then turn the had wheelto bring the point of the needle into thematerial then lower the presser foot bymeans of presser bar lifter R and startto sew
Some materials such as soft finishedsheers nylons jerseys tricots andother elastic and sponge textilesrequire a slight amount of assistance infeeding during sewing operations
Fig 23 To Start Sewing
However too much pull will stretch the seam create irregular stitching and bendthe needle Most materials require only guiding for best sewing results
The machine will sew its own thread when sewing from one piece of material toanother However it is not recommended that any sewing be done with athreaded machine unless some fabric is under the presser foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Turn a Corner
Stop the machine when the needle eye making its upward stroke is still in thefabric Raise the presser foot and turn the work as desired using the needle as apivot then lower the presser foot and resume sewing
Basting
The longest stitch No 6 on the stitch indicator plate is satisfactory for bastingand is easily removed by clipping every sixth stitch and withdrawing the longcontinuous thread Machine basting is firmer more even and much quicker thanhand basting
To Sew Bias Seams
Use a short stitch when sewing bias or curved seams to increase the elasticity ofthe seam and to prevent seam failure under strain No change in tensions isrequired
To Remove the Work
Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever 5 Fig 14 at its highest point Raise the presser foot by means of presser bar lifter R Fig 23 draw the fabricback and to the left and sever the threads on thread cutter S Fig 23 Placeends of threads under presser foot
Caution When the machine is not in use raise the presser foot by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury to the presser foot and the feed T Fig 23
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Length of Stitch The machine is adjustable to makefrom 6 to 30 stitches per inch asindicated by the numerals on the stitchindicator plate
The red dot indicator U Fig 24 in theslot at the left indicates the stitchsetting To regulate the length of stitchturn thumb nut V Fig 24 on leveraway from the stitch indicator plate asfar as necessary Move the lever at Vuntil the red dot indicator U is at thedesired stitch setting Then turn thumbnut V inward until it touches indicatorplate The machine is not set to stitchthe desired number of stitches per inchin a forward direction
To Reverse the Direction of Feed
For Back Tacking raise the lever to theupper end of the indicator plate Themachine will then stitch in a reversedirection making it easy to fasten theends of seams
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Pressure on PresserFoot
For ordinary sewing the pressure ofthe presser foot on the material seldomrequires changing Heavy materialsrequire more pressure than light weightmaterials The pressure should be onlyheavy enough to prevent the materialfrom rising with the needle and toenable the feed to move the work alongevenly without side creeping Toincrease the pressure turn the thumbscrew W Fig 25 clockwise ordownward To lighten the pressureturn the thumb screw W so that itscrews upward
FIG 25 Thumb Screw for Regulating Pressureon Presser Foot
Thread Tension
For perfect stitching the tension on theneedle and bobbin threads must beheavy enough to pull the threads to thecenter of the thickness of the materialand make a firm stitch as shown in Fig26 If the needle lies straight along thetop side of the material the tension onthe needle thread is too heavy or thetension on the bobbin thread is toolight as shown in Fig 27 If the bobbinthread lies straight along the undersideof the material the tension on theneedle thread is too light or the tensionon the bobbin thread is too heavy asshown inFig 28
FIG 26 Perfect Stitching
FIG 27 Imperfect Stitching
FIG 28 Imperfect Stitching
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread canbe tested only when the presser foot isdown
The numerals 0 to 9 dial X Fig 29indicate the different degrees of tensionthat can be obtained The numbers donot denote size of thread or amount oftension
When the tension has been correctlyset note the number at the indicatorline Y Fig 29 so that this setting maybe regained should the tension bealtered for special work
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To increase tension turn the thumbnut Z Fig 29 gradually to the right(clockwise) until the required tension isobtained Each higher number denotesincreased tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Start Sewing
Be sure to have thread take-up lever 5Fig 14 at its highest position
Place the material beneath the presserfoot Q Fig 23 then turn the had wheelto bring the point of the needle into thematerial then lower the presser foot bymeans of presser bar lifter R and startto sew
Some materials such as soft finishedsheers nylons jerseys tricots andother elastic and sponge textilesrequire a slight amount of assistance infeeding during sewing operations
Fig 23 To Start Sewing
However too much pull will stretch the seam create irregular stitching and bendthe needle Most materials require only guiding for best sewing results
The machine will sew its own thread when sewing from one piece of material toanother However it is not recommended that any sewing be done with athreaded machine unless some fabric is under the presser foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Turn a Corner
Stop the machine when the needle eye making its upward stroke is still in thefabric Raise the presser foot and turn the work as desired using the needle as apivot then lower the presser foot and resume sewing
Basting
The longest stitch No 6 on the stitch indicator plate is satisfactory for bastingand is easily removed by clipping every sixth stitch and withdrawing the longcontinuous thread Machine basting is firmer more even and much quicker thanhand basting
To Sew Bias Seams
Use a short stitch when sewing bias or curved seams to increase the elasticity ofthe seam and to prevent seam failure under strain No change in tensions isrequired
To Remove the Work
Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever 5 Fig 14 at its highest point Raise the presser foot by means of presser bar lifter R Fig 23 draw the fabricback and to the left and sever the threads on thread cutter S Fig 23 Placeends of threads under presser foot
Caution When the machine is not in use raise the presser foot by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury to the presser foot and the feed T Fig 23
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Length of Stitch The machine is adjustable to makefrom 6 to 30 stitches per inch asindicated by the numerals on the stitchindicator plate
The red dot indicator U Fig 24 in theslot at the left indicates the stitchsetting To regulate the length of stitchturn thumb nut V Fig 24 on leveraway from the stitch indicator plate asfar as necessary Move the lever at Vuntil the red dot indicator U is at thedesired stitch setting Then turn thumbnut V inward until it touches indicatorplate The machine is not set to stitchthe desired number of stitches per inchin a forward direction
To Reverse the Direction of Feed
For Back Tacking raise the lever to theupper end of the indicator plate Themachine will then stitch in a reversedirection making it easy to fasten theends of seams
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Pressure on PresserFoot
For ordinary sewing the pressure ofthe presser foot on the material seldomrequires changing Heavy materialsrequire more pressure than light weightmaterials The pressure should be onlyheavy enough to prevent the materialfrom rising with the needle and toenable the feed to move the work alongevenly without side creeping Toincrease the pressure turn the thumbscrew W Fig 25 clockwise ordownward To lighten the pressureturn the thumb screw W so that itscrews upward
FIG 25 Thumb Screw for Regulating Pressureon Presser Foot
Thread Tension
For perfect stitching the tension on theneedle and bobbin threads must beheavy enough to pull the threads to thecenter of the thickness of the materialand make a firm stitch as shown in Fig26 If the needle lies straight along thetop side of the material the tension onthe needle thread is too heavy or thetension on the bobbin thread is toolight as shown in Fig 27 If the bobbinthread lies straight along the undersideof the material the tension on theneedle thread is too light or the tensionon the bobbin thread is too heavy asshown inFig 28
FIG 26 Perfect Stitching
FIG 27 Imperfect Stitching
FIG 28 Imperfect Stitching
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread canbe tested only when the presser foot isdown
The numerals 0 to 9 dial X Fig 29indicate the different degrees of tensionthat can be obtained The numbers donot denote size of thread or amount oftension
When the tension has been correctlyset note the number at the indicatorline Y Fig 29 so that this setting maybe regained should the tension bealtered for special work
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To increase tension turn the thumbnut Z Fig 29 gradually to the right(clockwise) until the required tension isobtained Each higher number denotesincreased tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Turn a Corner
Stop the machine when the needle eye making its upward stroke is still in thefabric Raise the presser foot and turn the work as desired using the needle as apivot then lower the presser foot and resume sewing
Basting
The longest stitch No 6 on the stitch indicator plate is satisfactory for bastingand is easily removed by clipping every sixth stitch and withdrawing the longcontinuous thread Machine basting is firmer more even and much quicker thanhand basting
To Sew Bias Seams
Use a short stitch when sewing bias or curved seams to increase the elasticity ofthe seam and to prevent seam failure under strain No change in tensions isrequired
To Remove the Work
Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever 5 Fig 14 at its highest point Raise the presser foot by means of presser bar lifter R Fig 23 draw the fabricback and to the left and sever the threads on thread cutter S Fig 23 Placeends of threads under presser foot
Caution When the machine is not in use raise the presser foot by means ofpresser bar lifter R to prevent injury to the presser foot and the feed T Fig 23
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Length of Stitch The machine is adjustable to makefrom 6 to 30 stitches per inch asindicated by the numerals on the stitchindicator plate
The red dot indicator U Fig 24 in theslot at the left indicates the stitchsetting To regulate the length of stitchturn thumb nut V Fig 24 on leveraway from the stitch indicator plate asfar as necessary Move the lever at Vuntil the red dot indicator U is at thedesired stitch setting Then turn thumbnut V inward until it touches indicatorplate The machine is not set to stitchthe desired number of stitches per inchin a forward direction
To Reverse the Direction of Feed
For Back Tacking raise the lever to theupper end of the indicator plate Themachine will then stitch in a reversedirection making it easy to fasten theends of seams
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Pressure on PresserFoot
For ordinary sewing the pressure ofthe presser foot on the material seldomrequires changing Heavy materialsrequire more pressure than light weightmaterials The pressure should be onlyheavy enough to prevent the materialfrom rising with the needle and toenable the feed to move the work alongevenly without side creeping Toincrease the pressure turn the thumbscrew W Fig 25 clockwise ordownward To lighten the pressureturn the thumb screw W so that itscrews upward
FIG 25 Thumb Screw for Regulating Pressureon Presser Foot
Thread Tension
For perfect stitching the tension on theneedle and bobbin threads must beheavy enough to pull the threads to thecenter of the thickness of the materialand make a firm stitch as shown in Fig26 If the needle lies straight along thetop side of the material the tension onthe needle thread is too heavy or thetension on the bobbin thread is toolight as shown in Fig 27 If the bobbinthread lies straight along the undersideof the material the tension on theneedle thread is too light or the tensionon the bobbin thread is too heavy asshown inFig 28
FIG 26 Perfect Stitching
FIG 27 Imperfect Stitching
FIG 28 Imperfect Stitching
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread canbe tested only when the presser foot isdown
The numerals 0 to 9 dial X Fig 29indicate the different degrees of tensionthat can be obtained The numbers donot denote size of thread or amount oftension
When the tension has been correctlyset note the number at the indicatorline Y Fig 29 so that this setting maybe regained should the tension bealtered for special work
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To increase tension turn the thumbnut Z Fig 29 gradually to the right(clockwise) until the required tension isobtained Each higher number denotesincreased tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Length of Stitch The machine is adjustable to makefrom 6 to 30 stitches per inch asindicated by the numerals on the stitchindicator plate
The red dot indicator U Fig 24 in theslot at the left indicates the stitchsetting To regulate the length of stitchturn thumb nut V Fig 24 on leveraway from the stitch indicator plate asfar as necessary Move the lever at Vuntil the red dot indicator U is at thedesired stitch setting Then turn thumbnut V inward until it touches indicatorplate The machine is not set to stitchthe desired number of stitches per inchin a forward direction
To Reverse the Direction of Feed
For Back Tacking raise the lever to theupper end of the indicator plate Themachine will then stitch in a reversedirection making it easy to fasten theends of seams
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Pressure on PresserFoot
For ordinary sewing the pressure ofthe presser foot on the material seldomrequires changing Heavy materialsrequire more pressure than light weightmaterials The pressure should be onlyheavy enough to prevent the materialfrom rising with the needle and toenable the feed to move the work alongevenly without side creeping Toincrease the pressure turn the thumbscrew W Fig 25 clockwise ordownward To lighten the pressureturn the thumb screw W so that itscrews upward
FIG 25 Thumb Screw for Regulating Pressureon Presser Foot
Thread Tension
For perfect stitching the tension on theneedle and bobbin threads must beheavy enough to pull the threads to thecenter of the thickness of the materialand make a firm stitch as shown in Fig26 If the needle lies straight along thetop side of the material the tension onthe needle thread is too heavy or thetension on the bobbin thread is toolight as shown in Fig 27 If the bobbinthread lies straight along the undersideof the material the tension on theneedle thread is too light or the tensionon the bobbin thread is too heavy asshown inFig 28
FIG 26 Perfect Stitching
FIG 27 Imperfect Stitching
FIG 28 Imperfect Stitching
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread canbe tested only when the presser foot isdown
The numerals 0 to 9 dial X Fig 29indicate the different degrees of tensionthat can be obtained The numbers donot denote size of thread or amount oftension
When the tension has been correctlyset note the number at the indicatorline Y Fig 29 so that this setting maybe regained should the tension bealtered for special work
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To increase tension turn the thumbnut Z Fig 29 gradually to the right(clockwise) until the required tension isobtained Each higher number denotesincreased tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Pressure on PresserFoot
For ordinary sewing the pressure ofthe presser foot on the material seldomrequires changing Heavy materialsrequire more pressure than light weightmaterials The pressure should be onlyheavy enough to prevent the materialfrom rising with the needle and toenable the feed to move the work alongevenly without side creeping Toincrease the pressure turn the thumbscrew W Fig 25 clockwise ordownward To lighten the pressureturn the thumb screw W so that itscrews upward
FIG 25 Thumb Screw for Regulating Pressureon Presser Foot
Thread Tension
For perfect stitching the tension on theneedle and bobbin threads must beheavy enough to pull the threads to thecenter of the thickness of the materialand make a firm stitch as shown in Fig26 If the needle lies straight along thetop side of the material the tension onthe needle thread is too heavy or thetension on the bobbin thread is toolight as shown in Fig 27 If the bobbinthread lies straight along the undersideof the material the tension on theneedle thread is too light or the tensionon the bobbin thread is too heavy asshown inFig 28
FIG 26 Perfect Stitching
FIG 27 Imperfect Stitching
FIG 28 Imperfect Stitching
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread canbe tested only when the presser foot isdown
The numerals 0 to 9 dial X Fig 29indicate the different degrees of tensionthat can be obtained The numbers donot denote size of thread or amount oftension
When the tension has been correctlyset note the number at the indicatorline Y Fig 29 so that this setting maybe regained should the tension bealtered for special work
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To increase tension turn the thumbnut Z Fig 29 gradually to the right(clockwise) until the required tension isobtained Each higher number denotesincreased tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread canbe tested only when the presser foot isdown
The numerals 0 to 9 dial X Fig 29indicate the different degrees of tensionthat can be obtained The numbers donot denote size of thread or amount oftension
When the tension has been correctlyset note the number at the indicatorline Y Fig 29 so that this setting maybe regained should the tension bealtered for special work
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To increase tension turn the thumbnut Z Fig 29 gradually to the right(clockwise) until the required tension isobtained Each higher number denotesincreased tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension
The tension on the bobbin thread isregulated by the screw A Fig 30 whichis nearest the center of the tensionspring on the outside of the bobbincase To increase the tension turnscrew A over to the right To decreasethe tension turn this screw to the left
When the tension on the bobbin threadhas been once properly adjusted it isseldom necessary to change it Acorrect stitch can usually be obtainedby varying the tension on the needlethread
Fig 30 Bobbin Thread Tension
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension
Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral 1opposite the center line Y Fig 29 between the plus and minus signs on thetension indicator Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go and turnthe thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial Turn the thumb nut together with the numbered dial to the left This shouldcause 0 to stop opposite the center line if the tension is properly assembled Now insert the pin of the thumb nut Z in different holes of the numbered dial untilone is found which gives a slight perceptible tension on No 50 mercerisedthread when the thumb nut is turned to the extreme left and the numeral 0 isopposite the center line This tension gradually increases with the turn of thethumb nut to the right providing a full range of tensions from light to heavy withone revolution of the thumb nut
Fig 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension
To Adjust the Tension on the Thread Take-up Spring
The tension on the thread take-up spring should be just sufficient to take up theslack of the needle thread until the eye of the needle in its descent reaches thematerial
To Adjust the Bobbin Thread Tension
First adjust the needle thread tension as instructed above Then using No 50mercerised thread in both the needle and the bobbin and using two thicknessesof thin material under the presser foot turn the numbered dial by means of thethumb nut to bring the numeral 4 opposite the center
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
line A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined tosee if the stitch is properly locked in the material If the bobbin thread shows ontop the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased If the needle threadshows on the bottom the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased Awide range material and threads can now be accommodated without furtheradjustment of the bobbin thread tension
Any change in tension required to obtain a proper stitch to suit different materialsbeing sewn can be made by a slight adjustment of the tension on the needlethread only
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
After considerable use the stitch forming mechanism of the machine maybecome clogged with lint and this may interfere with the perfect operation of themachine Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the machine according tothe following instructions and remove any lint etc which has accumulated inthe machine
To Remove the Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
Raise the needle to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel over towardyou Draw the slide plate AA Fig 31slightly to the left then lift its right handend and draw it toward the needle untilit is disengaged form the spring BB inthe bed of the machine
Fig 31 Slide Plate Removed
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
Insert the forefinger of the left handunder the latch CC Fig 32 raise thelatch just high enough to clear the edgeDD and then move the latch towardyou
Fig 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must thescrew EE be loosened Theloosening of this screw will change theclearance for the thread between thebobbin case and the bobbin positionbracket
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and the thumb of the lefthand as shown in Fig 33 Tilt thebobbin case to the left and at the sametime slightly turn the right or forked endtoward you so that it is moved out ofengagement with the sewing hook Then tilt the bobbin case toward theright and remove itFig 33 Removing the Bobbin Case
To Replace Bobbin Case
Operator Being at the Front of the Machine
See that the needle is raised to itshighest position and that the latch CCFig 34 is raised from the slot FF Fig34 and moved toward you
Hold the bobbin case between theforefinger and thumb of the left handas shown in Fig 33 Insert the forkedend of the bobbin case under the throatplate so that the fork straddles the endof the bobbin case position bracket GGFig 34 Then with a slight twistingmotion of the bobbin case to the leftand to the back lightly press itdownward
Fig 34 Bobbin Case Position Bracket
until the edge of the sewing hookengages in the groove under the rim ofthe bobbin case
Having set the bobbin case into thecorrect position lock the latch CC Fig34 in the notch FF Fig 34 to hold thebobbin case in place
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the rightas shown in Fig 35 being careful tosee that the two ends of the spring BBenter the grooves on the underside ofthe slide plate
Fig 35 Replacing Slide Plate
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29)
The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip If too loose shorten andrejoin
Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by
1 Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11
2 Bent needle
3 Pulling material when stitching
4 Needle striking an improperly fastened presser foot
5 Crossing too thick seams with too small a needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by
1 A knot in thread
2 Improper threading -- see page 13
3 Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
4 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
5 Needle blunt or bent
6 Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11
7 Roughened hole in throat plate
8 Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18
Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by 1 Improper threading of bobbin case -- see pages 17 - 18
2 Bobbin thread tension too tight -- see pages 22 - 23
Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by
1 Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12
2 Needle blunt or bent
3 Needle too small for thread -- see page 11
If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few dropsof paraffin at all oiling places run machine for a few minutes then wipe cleanand oil the machine -- see pages 9 - 10
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE FOOT HEMMER
The foot hemmer forms and stitches aperfectly turned hem without basting orpressing It is attached to the machinein place of the presser foot
Applications
Fine hemsEdging rufflesSheer seamsHemming with LaceLace insertionLingerie finishes
HemmingForm a double 18 fold at thevery edge of the fabric
Crease this fold for about 2
Draw the needle and bobbinthreads under the hemmer
Place the creased hem edgeunder the foot and take severalstitches through the fold
Grasp the thread ends and thesingle fold in front of the hemmerand lift the single fold into thehemmer scroll
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll bestwith the foot down firm crisp fabricswith the foot raised
The Foot Hemmer
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
Page 47
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
Page 48
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
Table of Contents | Previous Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming (cont)Stitch slowly for several inchesuntil hem is well started Holdthread ends in back of foot withthe left hand and guide the rawfabric edge into the mouth of thescroll with the right hand
Even feeding is essential to goodhemming The same width of fabricmust be kept in the scroll of thehemmer at all times
Hemmed Seams
Hemmed seams are often substitutedfor French seams where a fine narrowseam is appropriate
Allow a scant 14 seamallowance
With right sides of the fabrictogether place the upper layer ascant 18 to the left of the lowerlayer
Insert the two fabric edges intothe hemmer and proceed as for aplain hem
Page 33
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
Page 34
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
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Class 99 amp 99K
Hemming with Lace
Most of the popular kinds of laceedging and insertion can be appliedwith the foot hemmer It is an excellentway to trim childrens clothes and tofinish lingerie hems
Lace Applied over HemFold and start hem in usual way
Starting about 1 inch down fromend of lace place selvage underthe needle the lower the needleto hold lace firmly
Raise hemmer foot slightly andslip lace under back part of foot
Stitch slowly guiding fabric withright hand and lace with lefthand Take care not to stretchthe lace
Lace Applied under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold ofa hem the procedure is the same aswhen making a hemmed seam (page33) Slip the lace in from the left as youwould the second piece of fabric Thismethod is used where a neat finish isdesired on both sides of the material
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BINDER
The binder is used to apply commercialbinding as well as self-fabric bias to anunfinished edge
This colorful trim is attractive whenapplied to childrens wear aprons andfabric furnishings It is a practical finishfor seam edges that ravel and formaking bound seams
Inserting the Binding
Pre-folded commercial bias binding isinserted from the right into the outsideslot of the binder scroll
Cut the binding diagonally to forma long point
Insert the pointed end into the slotand pull through the scroll untilthe evenly folded edges areunder the needle Self-fabric biasbinding should be cut 1516 wideon the true bias
Insert the unfolded bindingdirectly into the two folds at theend of the scroll and draw it backunder the needle As the bindingpasses through the scroll the rawedges are turned in
The Binder
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Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
Table of Contents | Previous Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Adjustment and Operationof the Binder
The edge to be bound is guided into thecenter of the scroll Stitching ispositioned close to the edge of thebinding by adjusting the scroll portion ofthe attachment
Loosen the adjusting screw andmove the scroll to the right tobring the stitching closer to thebinding edge For a wideradjustment move the scroll to theleft
Be sure that the screw is well tightenedafter making an adjustment
Never pull the binding as it feedsthrough the scroll Allow theattachment to do the work Merelyguide the edge to be bound well intothe center of the scroll as you stitch
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Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
Page 37
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
Page 38
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
Page 42
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
Page 43
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
Page 46
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
Page 47
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
Page 48
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
Page 49
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
Page 50
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
Page 51
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
Page 52
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
Page 53
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
Page 54
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
Page 55
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
Table of Contents | Previous Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Binding Curved Edges
Curved edges can be bound as easilyas straight edges but require slightlydifferent fabric handling
Inside Curves
Inside curves are straightened as theyare fed into the binder If the fabric issoft and has a tendency to stretchreinforce the edge with a single row ofstitching before binding
Outside Curves
Outside curves tend to lead away fromthe center slot of the scroll and shouldbe guided so that a full seam width istaken at the needle point Do notattempt to pull or straighten the fabricinto the full length of the scroll
Page 37
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
Page 38
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
Page 39
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
Page 40
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
Page 41
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
Page 42
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
Page 43
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
Page 44
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
Page 45
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
Page 46
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
Page 47
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
Page 48
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
Page 49
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
Page 50
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
Page 51
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
Page 52
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
Page 53
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
Page 54
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
Page 55
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
Table of Contents | Previous Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE GATHERING FOOT
Single or multiple rows of shirring canbe quickly and expertly placed with thegathering foot Evenly spaced shirringis insured as this foot is designed tolock fullness into every stitch
Applications
Plain shirringElastic shirringWaffle shirringMachine smocking
Shirring
Shirring is usually done on thecrosswise grain of the fabric Softfabrics lend themselves to shirringbetter than firm fabrics
The amount of fullness is very simplycontrolled by stitch length and degreeof tension
A long stitch produces more fullnessthan a short stitch Balanced tensionsare always required but heavytensions both upper and lowerproduce more fullness than lighttensions
Many lovely effects are accomplishedwith simple rows of evenly spacedshirring A yoke section insert ortrimming band of self-fabric affords aninteresting contrast of texture whenstitched with the gathering foot in rows14 apart
The Gathering Foot
Page 38
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
Page 39
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
Page 40
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
Page 41
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
Page 42
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
Page 44
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
Page 45
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
Page 46
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
Page 47
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
Page 48
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
Page 49
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
Page 50
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
Page 51
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
Page 52
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
Page 53
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
Page 54
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
Page 55
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
Table of Contents | Previous Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE RUFFLER
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact
This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleatedruffles
Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time
The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot
Adjusting Points
1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number 1space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 inches apart Thestar is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats
2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of thepleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjustingscrew located at the right of the ruffler
Page 39
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Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
Page 40
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
Page 41
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
Page 42
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
Page 43
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
Page 44
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
Page 45
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
Page 46
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
Page 47
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
Page 48
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
Page 49
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
Page 50
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
Page 51
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
Page 52
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
Page 53
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
Page 54
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
Page 55
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
Table of Contents | Previous Page
Class 99 amp 99K
3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats Whenturned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachmentis set for its deepest pleat When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit andthe adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness
Activating Parts
The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold thematerial to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers orpleats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullnessto which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seamedges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffleis attached
Preparation
Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine inplace of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the drivinglever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw andthe needle clamp screw are tightened securely
GatheringSet adjusting lever on No 1 setting
Throw adjusting finger out of action
Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired
The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in(clockwise) as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out(counter-clockwise)
Page 40
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Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
Page 41
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
Page 42
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
Page 43
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
Page 44
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
Page 45
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
Page 46
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
Page 47
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Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
Page 48
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
Page 49
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
Page 50
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
Page 51
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
Page 52
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
Page 53
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
Page 54
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
Page 55
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
Table of Contents | Previous Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Gathering (cont)Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullnessthan a long stitch
Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch Always test the stitch length and rufflersetting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work
Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One OperationPlace ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the firstseparator guide
Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator bladeand the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed togetherwhen the seam is to ball to the side
Proceed as for plain gathering
Page 41
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Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
Page 42
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
Page 43
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
Page 44
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
Page 45
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
Page 46
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
Page 47
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
Page 48
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
Page 49
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
Page 50
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
Page 51
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
Page 52
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
Page 53
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
Page 54
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
Page 55
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
Table of Contents | Previous Page
Class 99 amp 99K
PleatingMove adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12stitches apart
Activate adjusting finger
For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum Forshallower pleats turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise)
Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitchseparates the pleats for a greater distance
Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through theseparator guide
Lower presser bar and stitch
Group Pleating
By using the star setting (plain stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 settingpleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easilyaccomplished by counting the number of stitches
Page 42
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
Page 43
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
Page 44
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
Page 45
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
Page 46
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
Page 47
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
Page 48
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
Page 49
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
Page 50
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
Page 51
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
Page 52
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
Page 53
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
Page 54
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
Page 55
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
Table of Contents | Previous Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE SEAM GUIDE
The seam guide is adjustable forspacing stitching at any distancebetween 18 and 1-38 from a fabricedge It is used in connections with thepresser foot
Applications
SeamsStay stitchingTop stitching - single andmultiple rows
Attach the guide to the machinewith the thumb screw in either ofthe threaded holes at the right ofthe needle
Adjust for width desired
For straight edges align guidewith the presser foot
For curved edges set the guideat an angle so that the endclosest to the needle acts as aguide
For pinned seams place the pinswith the points toward the seamedge so that they nip into thefabric at the stitching line Thehinged foot will then ride freelyover the points
The Seam Guide
Page 43
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
Page 44
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
Page 45
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Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
Page 46
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
Page 47
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
Page 48
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
Page 49
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
Page 50
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
Page 51
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
Page 52
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
Page 53
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
Page 54
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
Page 55
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
Table of Contents | Previous Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE ZIPPER FOOT
The zipper foot is designed for accurateplacement of stitches close to a raisededge The hinged feature of this footinsures even feeding over pins heavylayers of fabric or cross seams It isattached to the machine in place of thepresser foot and may be adjusted toeither side of the needle
Applications The Zipper Foot
Zipper insertionsCorded seamsTubular cordingSlip cover welting
PreparationAttach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot
Loosen zipper foot thumb screw and adjust foot to right or left of needle asdesired
Align the notch in the toe with the needle hole in the throat plate
Check adjustment by lowering needle into side notch making sure it clearsthe foot
Lock foot in position by tightening thumb screw
Page 44
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
Page 45
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
Page 46
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
Page 47
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
Page 48
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
Page 49
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
Page 50
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
Page 51
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
Page 52
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
Page 53
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
Page 54
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
Page 55
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
Table of Contents | Previous Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt ZipperMachine baste placket opening ofskirt and press this seam open
Attach zipper foot to machine inplace of presser foot
Position zipper foot to right ofneedle
Open zipper
Place zipper face down on seamallowance with edge of teeth atseam line
Turn the back seam allowanceaway from body of skirt
Move foot to the left of needle
Close zipper and turn it face up
Smooth back the seam allowanceat the edge of the zipper
Top stitch the seam allowance tothe tape close to the folded edge
Page 45
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
Page 46
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
Page 47
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
Page 48
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
Page 49
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
Page 50
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
Page 51
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
Page 52
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
Page 53
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
Page 54
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
Page 55
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
Table of Contents | Previous Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Skirt Zipper (cont)Turn skirt to right side
Fold zipper to front of skirt
Pin in place from right side
Baste
Move foot from right side
Stitch across lower end of zipperand up to waistline
Remove basting
Corded Welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizesand when covered with a firmly wovenfabric makes a corded welting that is anexcellent seam finish
This welting is prepared in advance andthen stitched into the seam Cut a truebias strip 1frac14 inches wide plus threetimes the width of the cord of either selfor contrasting fabric Sew stripstogether on the lengthwise grain toobtain desired length
Adjust zipper foot to left side ofneedle
Encase cord in bias strip rawedges even
Lower presser bar
Stitch close to cord using a stitchlength slightly longer than forplain seaming of same fabric
Do not crowd stitching againstcord
Page 46
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Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
Page 47
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
Page 48
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
Page 49
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
Page 50
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
Page 51
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
Page 52
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
Page 53
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
Page 54
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
Page 55
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
Table of Contents | Previous Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Corded Seams
The corded seam is a typical treatmentfor slip covers childrens clothesblouses and lingerie
When cording a seam the zipper foot isusually adjusted to the right of theneedle so that the bulk of the work willfall to the left
Attach corded welting to right sideof a single seam edge usingsame length stitch as used forwelting (page 46) Guide edge offoot next to cord but do notcrowd
Place attached corded weltingover second seam edge and pinor baste together
Keep the first stitching uppermostas a guide and position the seamunder the needle
Stitch this time crowding the footagainst the cord
This method produces evenly joinedseam edges and tightly set welting
Curved seams are corded as easily asstraight seams except that a shorterstitch is used Since the seamallowance of the welting is bias it iseasy to same it to the seam
Page 47
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
Page 48
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
Page 49
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
Page 50
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
Page 51
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
Page 52
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
Page 53
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
Page 54
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
Page 55
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
Table of Contents | Previous Page
Class 99 amp 99K
FASHION AIDS
available for separate purchase atyour local Singer Sewing Center
THE BUTTONHOLER
This attachment produces neat anddurable buttonholes in a great variety offabrics without any special skill on thepart of the operator The buttonholesare produced in a fraction of the timerequired for hand work and they artfirmer and more even than those madeby hand
THE BLIND STITCHER
This useful SINGER attachmentproduces invisible hemming withperfect blind stitches on an almostunlimited variety of work such as skirtsdresses lingerie childrens clothestowels curtains sheets table clothsand many other articles
It is quickly attached to your sewingmachine in place of the presser foot Itis easy to use and will enable you toaccomplish superior invisible hemmingmuch faster and with less effort than ispossible by hand
Page 48
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
Page 49
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
Page 50
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
Page 51
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
Page 52
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
Page 53
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
Page 54
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
Page 55
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
Table of Contents | Previous Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE BIAS GAUGE
The Bias Gauge is very useful(especially in the case of soft materials)when cutting bias strips from 716 inchto 1-38 inches in width This is doneby placing the bias gauge upon thepoint of the scissors and setting theblued indicator to the width desired The line F is the point at which to setthe blued indicator for facings the lineB for bindings and the line C forcording or piping
Insert The material in the gauge withthe edge against the blued indicatorand hold as shown at right
Bias binding should be cut 1516 inchwide and to do this the indicator shouldbe set midway between the lines F andB
Page 49
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
Page 50
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
Page 51
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
Page 52
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
Page 53
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Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
Page 54
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
Page 55
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
Table of Contents | Previous Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE EDGE-STITCHER
The edge-stitcher provides a series ofslotted guides which regulate theplacement of stitches in relations to afabric edge
It is attached to the machine in place ofthe presser foot
Applications
Joining lace and insertionFrench seamsTucking with laceStraight and pin tucksFacing and seam finishesSeam piping
Joining Lace and Insertion
Lovely lingerie detail is simple toaccomplish with the edge-stitcher byjoining lace insertions or alternatebands of fabric and lace Slots 1 and 4are used for this work Since slot 1overlaps slot 4 the edge insertion intoslot 1 will be the top stitched edge
Place the first band (the fabricband where used) into slot 1
Adjust lug A to position thestitching close to the edge of thisband
Page 50
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Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
Page 51
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Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
Page 52
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
Page 53
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
Page 54
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
Page 55
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
Table of Contents | Previous Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Joining Lace and Insertion (cont)Place the second band (lace) into slot 4
Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding
Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions
Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching
French Seams
The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams so well adapted to sheerfabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed
Trim away seam allowances to frac14
Lay seam edges together right sides of fabric outward and insert into slot1
Move lug A to the left to position stitching 18 from the edge
Stitch and press
Fold with right sides of fabric together and insert into slot 1
Move lug A to extreme left allowing just enough margin to conceal rawedges
Stitch
Tucking
Dainty tucks from pin width to frac14 maybe produced with the edge-stitcherTucks are usually made on thelengthwise grain of the fabric
Draw a single thread from thefabric or measure from theselvage to locate the first tuck onthe straight of the fabric grain
Page 51
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
Page 52
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
Page 53
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
Page 54
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
Page 55
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
Table of Contents | Previous Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Tucking (cont)Draw a single thread from the fabric or measure from the selvage to locatethe first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain
For succeeding tucks crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desiredfrom previous tuck
Press tuck folds before stitching
To make pin tucks insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locatestitching a pin width from the fold
To make 14 tucks insert the tuck fold into slot 5 and move lug A to itsextreme left position
Use a short stitch length and perfectly balanced tensions
THE QUILTER
The Quilter designed with a shortopen foot and an adjustable andremovable space guide is especiallywell adapted to stitching lightly paddedmaterials The light padding is based tothe underside of the fabric and may beof outing flannel canton flannel sheetwadding or light wool interlining
Replace the presser foot with theQuilter Adjust the space guide for thewidth between stitching lines Thespace guide may be used to the right orleft of the needle
Page 52
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
Page 53
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
Page 54
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
Page 55
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
Table of Contents | Previous Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
To make hems from 316 to 1516inch wide
Attach adjustable hemmer topresser bar in place of presserfoot
1
Pull up bobbin thread asinstructed on page 18
2
Loosen thumb screw on hemmerand move scale until pointerregisters with number of desiredwidth of hem (No 1 indicates thenarrowest hem and No 8 thewidest) Then tighten thumbscrew
3
Place cloth in hemmer and draw itback and forth until hem is formedas shown
4
Draw end of hem back underneedle lower presser bar andstart to sew
5
Guide sufficient cloth intohemmer to turn hem properly
6
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than 1516 inchwide loosen thumb screw in hemmerand move scale to right as far as it willgo then swing it toward you as shownand tighten thumb screw Fold andcrease down a hem of the desiredwidth pass fold under extension at rightof hemmer and the edge into folder asshown and proceed to stitch the hem
Page 53
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
Page 54
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
Page 55
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
Table of Contents | Previous Page
Class 99 amp 99K
THE TUCKER
The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width Twoadjustable scales are provided the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck The larger scaleexpresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks
Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck The space scale is then adjusted usingthe needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks When both scales areset at the same number blind tucks result That is the fold of one tuck justtouches the stitching line of the next When additional space between tucks isdesired adjust the space scale to a point beyond the tuck scale reading equal tothe spacing desired expressed in quarters of an inch Thus half-inch tucksspaced a half inch apart require a tuck scale setting of 4 and a space scalesetting of 6
Page 54
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Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
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Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
Table of Contents | Previous Page
Class 99 amp 99KDARNING OR EMBROIDERING
While darning and embroidery can bedone on the machine when threaded forregular sewing the use of feed coverplate Y No 32622 is recommendedas movable contact with the feed insome cases might interfere with thehandling of the work
Don not change the adjustment of thefeed dog in any way as it is essentialthat its position should remain asoriginally fixed
When the feed cover plate Y is used itis necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulatorX at the left of the tension discs and notunder the thread regulator With thisexception the threading is the same asfor regular sewing (see Fig 14 page13)
Remove the presser foot and let downthe presser bar lifter to restore thetension on the needle thread which isreleased and inoperative when the lifteris raised
Machine Threaded for Darning andEmbroidery
Page 55
Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
Table of Contents | Previous Page
Class 99 amp 99K
Darning or Embroidering (cont)
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbincase and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under theedge of the throat plate and push it to the right After bringing the hole at theright of the cover plate in line with the hole in the throat plate press the cover intoposition and close the slide
A feed cover plate is not included in the regular set of attachments but is on saleat all SINGER Sewing Centers
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER NEEDLES AND SINGER OIL FORYOUR SEWING MACHINE
NEEDLES
You will obtain the best stitching results from your sewing machine if it is fittedwith a SINGER needle
SINGER needles and their containers are marked with the CompanysTrademark SINGER or SIMANCO and can be purchases from any SINGERSewing Center
USE SINGER OIL ON MACHINE
Knowing from many years experience the great importance of using good oilSINGER sells an extra quality machine oil especially prepared for sewingmachines
Page 56
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