Signal processing applied to ocean waves - EAFIT · Signal processing applied to ocean waves:...
Transcript of Signal processing applied to ocean waves - EAFIT · Signal processing applied to ocean waves:...
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Signal processing applied to ocean waves:
dissipation and nonlinear interactions
Juan F. Paniagua-Arroyave
Geomorphology Laboratory
Department of Geological Sciences
University of Florida
Gainesville, FL, USA
Marine Sciences Group
Department of Earth Sciences
EAFIT University
Medellin, Antioquia, Colombia
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Show the application of Fourier Transforms in the
study of ocean waves
“The smart, brute force”
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1Justification of studying the transformation
of ocean waves
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Beach sediment relocalization
is linked to wave transformation
at inner-shelf shoals
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http://data.whicdn.com/images/58661336/large.jpg
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2Frequency-dispersive waves
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[1]
SEA-SWELL -- 3 to 20 s
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Wikimedia Commons
SIMILAR PERIODS
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Wikimedia Commons
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(Primary)
(Secondary)
[2]
SURF BEAT – FORCED INFRAGRAVITY MOTIONS
20 to 500 s
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3Fourier series representation of ocean
waves
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[3]
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WATER LEVEL
WATER LEVEL
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[4]
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[5]
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TIME PLANE
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FREQUENCY PLANE
(Power spectrum)
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Shoal E inner swale, Spring 2015
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POWER SPECTRUM
VARIANCE
Sea-swell
Sp
ectr
al d
en
sity (
cm
2H
z–
1)
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SPECTROGRAPHS
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SCALE
(FREQUENCY) FREQUENCY
[6]
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5Application to wave transformation over
Cape Canaveral shoals
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Cape Canaveral, FL
~10 km
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http://www.gserentals.co.uk/details.aspx?product=192
13 ADCP campaigns
between
Fall 2013 and
Fall 2016
ADCP
Acoustic Doppler
Current Profiler with
Pressure sensor
NORTH AMERICA
FLORIDA
CANAVERAL SHOALS
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INNER SWALE OUTER SWALE
Shoal E
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Shoal E
BLUE
GREEN
BOTH
BLUE
GREEN
BOTH
BOTHBOTHINNER SWALE OUTER SWALE
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γ = 0.103
DYNAMIC
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6Appendix: Stokes solution to KdV
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