Sherlock Amigurumi Pattern

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Crocheted Consulting Detective By Vilonal

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This pattern is for private use only! Please dont try to sell it and dont sell Sherlock. Dont repost this pattern or a

part of it anywhere without asking me (instead feel free to link to it). Id also appreciate if you didnt use this pattern

or a part of it as a base for a doll/pattern youre going to make for selling. Thank you!

Sherlock of course belongs to BBC.

Notice that Sherlock cant actually stand on his own, the photo on the right was taken after struggling some time

trying to balance him.

Materials: Yarns

peach (or whatever colour you prefer for skin)

black

dark grey

purple

dark brown

Small amount of red thread

2 safety eyes

Small piece of blue fabric for the scarf (I used felt)

Stuffing

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Abbreviations: ch = chain

sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)

st = stitch

ss = slip stitch

hdc = half double crochet (US), half treble crochet (UK)

dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)

tr = treble crochet (US), double treble crochet (UK)

sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together

yoh = yarn over the hook

The number of stitches has been written in brackets at the end of each row.

I usually start by using a magic ring but instead of that you can ch 2 and work the stitches in the first ch.

Please keep in mind English is not my native. And feel free to inform me of any mistakes you may notice in the pattern

and Ill try to correct them :)

Lets start!

Before doing anything else Sherlocks curly hair is a really big part of his figure so youre going to need some curly yarn for it. Its simple: just

crochet something with the (dark brown) yarn youre going to use for the hair (I usually crochet circle), wet it

thoroughly and let it dry. When unravelling the crochet, the yarn will have great curls. The tighter you make the

crochet, the smaller the curls will be. I preferred to crochet the circle really loose for Sherlocks hair. Be extra careful

that you dont hook through the yarn so that the unravelling would be easier.

I put this first so that the yarn for the hair will be ready when you need it, it needs to dry completely or the curls wont

keep their shape. But before doing this, remember to check that your yarn doesnt suffer when getting wet (Im no

expert when it comes to yarn materials so I dont know if this works fine with all kind of yarns, what I used is 85% wool

and 15% polyamid).

Head and body peach yarn, place the eyes between rows 8 and 9, make sure you switch the yarns on the backside of the body (not on

the same side where you placed the eyes)

Row 1: 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

Row 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

Row 3: [sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st] 6 times (18)

Row 4: [sc in the next 2 st, 2 sc in the next st] 6 times (24)

Row 5: sc in each st around (24)


Row 7-11 (5 rounds): sc in each st around (30)

Row 12: [sc in the next 3 st, sc2tog] 6 times (24)


Row 14: [sc in the next 2 st, sc2tog] 6 times (18)

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Row 15: [sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times (12)

Row 16: sc2tog 7 times (5)


switch to purple yarn


Row 19: [sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st] 5 times (15)






switch to black yarn


Row 31-32 (2 rounds): sc2tog, repeat until the hole is small enough to be sewn shut, finish off and weave in the tail

Ears (make two) What youre going to do now is to work the ears right onto the head. Decide a good place for the ear. Hook in the

right spot, yoh, pull through, yoh, pull through the loop, do sc in the same spot, do sc in the next 3 spots too, ch 1,

turn, sc in the 4 st, finish off and weave in the tails. Do the other ear onto the other side of the head.

Notice that the example pictures arent of Sherlocks head.

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Legs (make two) black yarn, leave a long tail at the start and keep it on the outside, youre going to need it to sew the leg onto the body

Row 1: 6 sc in a magic ring (6)



Row 6: sc2tog, sc in the next 10 st (11)









Row 15: sc in the next 3 st, ch 1, turn

Row 16: 2 sc in the 1st st, sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, ch 1, turn

Row 17: sc in those 5 st

Next you start doing the foot. Check the drawing below, it might be more understandable than the verbal instructions.

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Row 18: Do sc between the rows 17 and 16 and then another sc between the rows 16 and 15. The next are the left

stitches from the row 14. Do sc, sc2tog and sc. Again do sc between the rows 2 times. Next you have the 5 stitches

from the row 17. Do sc in the back loop of each of them. (12)


Row 22: sc, sc2tog, sc in the next 4 st, sc2tog, sc in the next 3 st (10)

sc in the next st

Next youre going to crochet the foot shut, so finish the stuffing during this part (legs should be stuffed quite firmly so

that the character can stand with them). Flatten the foot so that there are 5 st on the instep and 5 st on the sole. Hook

through the next st and the one opposite it (see the pictures below). Do sc. Do sc also in the other 4 pairs crocheting

the foot shut. Finish off and weave in the end. Sew the legs onto the body.

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Arms (make two) peach yarn

Row 1: ch 2, work 4 sc into the first ch (4)

Row 2: [2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 2 times (6)


switch to purple yarn


Row 7: 2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 5 st (7)


Row 10: 2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 6 st (8)


Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing but dont sew the arms onto the body just yet. Stuff the tip of the arm firmly

and closer to the shoulder only slightly.

Coat dark grey yarn

ch 31

Row 1: miss first ch from the hook, sc in the next 30 ch, ch 1, turn

Row 2-15 (14 rounds): sc in the 30 st, ch 1, turn

Row 16: sc in the next 10 st, skip the next 2 st and do a sc in the 3rd st (but keep it tight so that it makes a little crease),

sc in the next st, skip the next 2 st and sc in the 3rd st (again, keep it tight), sc in the next st, skip the next 2 st and sc in

the 3rd st (tight!), sc in the next 9 st, ch 1, turn

Row 17-20 (4 rounds): sc in the 24 st, ch 1, turn

Row 21-22 (2 rounds): sc in the next 3 st, ch 1, turn

Row 23: miss the first st, sc in the next 2 st, ch 1, turn

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Row 24: sc in the 2 st

Finish off and weave in the ends.

The crochet should now look something like in the picture below. It may shrivel a bit at the corners (and thats why my

fingers are so annoyingly in the photo). If it still does that after youve crocheted the collar, you can try ironing it. Just

remember to check the ironing instructions for the yarn you use.

Hook into the 5th st from the part you just made (see the picture below).

Row 1: yoh, pull through the st, yoh, pull through the loop. Do sc in the same st. Do sc in the next 9 st, ch 1, turn

Row 2: sc2tog, sc in the next 6 st, sc2tog, ch 1, turn


Row 4: sc2tog, sc in the next 2 st, sc2tog


Hook into the other end of the original row 20 (see the picture below).

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Row 1: yoh, pull through the st, yoh, pull through the loop. Do sc in the same st. Do sc in the next 2 st, ch 1, turn

Row 2: sc in the 3 st, ch 1, turn

Row 3: miss the first st, sc in the next 2 st, ch 1, turn

Row 4: sc in the 2 st, ch 1, turn

Row 5: sc in the 2 st, ch 3, join to the part on the other side of the gap and do sc in the 4 st, ch 3, join to the part on

the other side of the gap and do sc in the 2 st, ch 1, turn

Row 6: sc in the 2 st, sc in the 3 ch, sc in the 4 st, sc in the 3 ch, sc in the 2 st


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Now, before doing the collar or the sleeves, use the coat to check the right places for the arms. Sew the arms onto

those spots.

Collar dark grey yarn

Start working from the right bottom corner. On the right and left edges work the stitches between every row. For the

sake of making the pattern easier to write and read, I call those spots between rows also stitches. There are 25 of

these stitches on the right and left edges, the first one being between rows 1 and 2, the last one between rows 25

and 26

yoh, pull through the st, yoh, pull through the loop, sc in the same st, sc in the next 11 st, hdc in the next 5 st, dc in the

next 3 st, tr in the next st, ch 3, ss in the next 2 st, ch 3, tr in the next st, 2 dc in the next st

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You are now at the right upper corner. Do dc in all 14 st on the upper edge.

Start doing the left edge by working the stitches between the rows again (making the first ones between rows 25 and

26).

2 dc in the next st, tr in the next st, ch 3, ss in the next 2 st, ch 3, tr in the next st, dc in the next 3 st, hdc in the next 5

st, sc in the next 12 st

Finish off and weave in the tails.

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Sleeves (make two) dark grey yarn

ch 12, ss to join

Row 1: sc in each ch around (12)


Row 8: sc in each st around, ch 1, turn

Row 9: sc in the next 8 st, ch 1, turn


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Row 12: sc in the 4 st

Finish off and leave a long tail.

Sew the sleeve onto the edge of the armhole. The picture below shows the way the sleeve should be attached, the

same coloured parts joined together.

Belt and buttonhole dark grey yarn

ch 8, miss the first ch from the hook, sc in the next 6 ch, 3 sc in the next ch

do the next sc in the original 2nd ch, sc also in the next 5 st, 3 sc in the next st (the original 7th ch), ss in the next st

Finish off and leave a long tail

Sew the belt on the back side of the coat, just above the creases. Sew a few stitches with the black yarn to do the

buttons. Of course you can also use actual buttons for this.

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Sew a couple stitches with red thread on the collar to mark the buttonhole. The ends can be hidden on the backside of

the collar.

Hair (curly) dark brown yarn

This is how I tend to do hair for my amigurumis. You can try my way or some other, some pretty good tutorials can be

found by googling. Use whatever method suits you best.

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These pictures are just to show the way I sew a row of hair. I usually dont start in the middle but by doing the hairline

on the forehead first and then moving row by row to the back of the head. This is a little more difficult with the curly

yarn but be patient and the result will be worth it :)

Cut a long length of yarn. Thread it into a needle.

Make sure both ends are inside the loop and then tighten.

Time to make the next one in the next stitch.

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Keep the loop (the one around the finger in the picture above) quite long, at least longer than you think the

characters hair is. They dont all have to be exactly the same length as you are going to cut them anyway. Its better

to make the hair too long than too short, you can always cut it afterwards.

Tighten again.

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Do the same to the next stitches too. The row looks then something like this:

Do the other rows too so that the head is full of hair.

When that is done, its time for a haircut. I recommend watching reference pictures while doing this since the hair is

ultimately what makes your doll look like Sherlock.

Finally you may need to sew some stitches to keep the hair in the right place.

Finally Cut a piece of blue fabric for the scarf and put it around Sherlocks neck. Put the coat on him and youre ready!

I hope you found my pattern useful and understandable. If youve got any questions feel free to message me (on

Ravelry, Tumblr or Deviantart). Feedback is always welcome and Id also be really happy to see your Sherlock :)

Sherlock Amigurumi Pattern

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