†mjvB Kib: (Sewing)

†cvkvK ‣Zixi cÖwµqv mg~‡ni g‡a¨ †mjvB KiY cÖwµqv

me‡P‡q ¸i‚Z¡c~Y©| †mjvB KiY ej‡ZB Avgiv m~B I

m~Zvi mvnv‡h¨ Kvco †Rvov jvMv‡bv eywS| Kvco †Rvov

jvMv‡bvi Rb¨ †h mKj c×wZ e¨eüZ nq Zv‡`i g‡a¨

m~B I m~Zvi mvnv‡h¨ Kvco †Rvov jvMv‡bvi c×wZ

A`¨vew` m‡e©vrK…ó I me‡P‡q eûj e¨eüZ c×wZ|

†cvkvK wk‡í †mjvB Kivi Rb¨ m~B I m~Zv †gwk‡bi

mvnv‡h¨ A_©vr †mjvB †gwk‡bi mvnv‡h¨ wbqš¿Y Kiv nq|

wQg (Seam)

†h †iLv eivei GKvwaK ciZv Kvco †Rvov jvMv‡bv

nq H †iLv‡K wQg e‡j|

Kvco †mjvB K‡i ev weKí †Kvb c×wZ‡Z †Rvov

jvMv‡jB wQg Drcv`b nq|

†mjvB Gi g~L¨ D‡Ïk¨ Ggb GKwU wQg •Zix Kiv hvi

†Pnviv Ges ¸bv¸b †hb Av`k© gvb m¤úbœ (Standard

Quality Level) nq I Kg Li‡P •Zix Kiv nq|

wQ‡gi •ewkó¨ (Properties of Seam)

fvj †Pnviv m¤úbœ wQg ej‡Z eySvq †h wQ‡gi g‡a¨ †mjvB

Gi GKK mg~n (Stitches) mwVK I mylg mvB‡Ri Drcbœ n‡q‡Q

Ges Kvc‡oi †Kvb ÿwZ mvab nq bvB|

Dciš‘ †mjvB †iLv eivei Kvco gm„b _vK‡Z A_©vr Kvco

†hb KzuP‡K bv _v‡K| hw`I wQ‡gi g‡a¨ Kvc‡oi KzuwP MÖnY

‡hvM¨ bq Z_vwc KL‡bv KL‡bv we‡lk wWRvBb m„wói Rb¨

wQ‡gi g‡a¨ Kvc‡oi KzuwP B‛QvK…Z fv‡eB •Zix Kiv nq|

†cvkvK •Zixi ci e¨envi Kivi mgq A_ev cwi®‥vi Kivi

ci wQ‡gi †Pnviv †hb wVK _v‡K Zv wbwðZ Ki‡Z n‡e|

wQ‡gi kw³ Kvc‡oi kw³i mgvb A_ev Kvc‡oi kw³i †P‡q

Kg kw³ m¤úbœ nIqv DwPr| wQ‡gi kw³ Kvc‡oi kw³i

†P‡q ‡ekx n‡j AbvKvw“LZ fv‡e AZ¨vwaK ej cÖ‡qv‡Mi

Kvi‡Y Kvco wQ‡o †h‡Z cv‡i hv Avgv‡`i Kvg¨ bq|

ej cÖ‡qv‡Mi Kvi‡Y †cvkv‡Ki Kvco m¤cÖmvwiZ (Stretched)

n‡Z cv‡i, ZLb †cvkv‡Ki Kvco m¤cÖmvi‡Yi mv‡_ mv‡_

wQgI m¤cÖmvwiZ n‡Z n‡e Ges ej AcmvwiZ nIqvi ci

Kvc‡oi mv‡_ mv‡_ wQgI c~‡e©i AvqZ‡b wd‡i Avm‡Z n‡e|

‡cvkvK I †cvkv‡Ki Kvco hZw`b n‡e wQgI †hb Kgc‡¶

ZZw`b †UKmB nq| we‡kl K‡i e¨env‡ii mgq I cwi¯‥vi

Kivi mgq Nl©Y RwbZ Kvi‡Y wQg bó ev ¶wZMÖ¯’ bv nq|

wQ‡gi •ewkó¨ (Properties of Seam)

wQ‡gi •ewkó¨ (Properties of Seam)

‡cvkvK e¨env‡ii mgq ¯^fvweK Kvi‡Y nVvr wm‡gi

m~Zv Ly‡j ev wQ‡o hvIqvi Kvi‡Y wQg †hb Ly‡j bv hvq

Zvi wbðqZv _vK‡Z n‡e, Ab¨_vq bvRyK cwiw ’wZi D™¢e

n‡Z cv‡i|

wKQy wKQy †cvkvK †hgb Rvw½qv, †MwÄ ev eªv BZ¨vw` hv

kix‡ii mv‡_ Nwbófv‡e †j‡M _v‡K H mKj †cvkv‡Ki

wQg Giƒc n‡Z n‡e hv‡Z e¨env‡ii mgq ‡Kvb cÖKvi

A¯^w¯’ ev Amyweavi m„wó bv nq|

wQ‡gi cÖKvi‡f` (Seam Types)

wQg K‡qK kZ cÖKvi n‡Z cv‡i Ges G¸wj‡K cÖavbZ

QqwU †kªYx‡Z fvM Kiv n‡q‡Q| cÖwZwU †kªYxi wQg

m¤ú‡K© Qwe mn wb‡æ Av‡jvPbv Kiv n‡q‡Q| †mjvB

†iLv eivei Kvc‡oi cÖv‡š—i web¨vm‡K wQg UvBc e‡j|

mycvi Bg‡cvRW wQg

(Superimposed Seam)

†cvkvK •Zixi †¶‡Î G †kªbxi wQg me‡P‡q eûj

cÖPwjZ (Most Common) |

G †kªYxf~³ wQg me‡P‡q mn‡R •Zix Kiv hvq, Giƒc

wQg¸wj GKwU Kvc‡oi cÖv‡š—i Dci Aci GKwU

Kvc‡oi cÖvš— mylg fv‡e ewm‡q I †mjvB K‡i •Zix

Kiv nq|

we‡kl K‡i Rvgv Ges c¨v‡›Ui mvBW wQ‡g (Side Seam)

Bnv‡`i e¨envi LyeB †ekx|

mycvi Bg‡cvRW wQg

(Superimposed Seam)

‡jcW wQg (Lapped Seam)

G †kªYxi Aš—f©~³ wQg¸wj Kgc‡¶ `ywU Kvco Øviv

•Zix Kiv nq| wQ‡gi †iLv eivei †mjvBK…Z Kvc‡oi

cÖvš— `ywU mvaviYZ wecixZ w`‡K _v‡K I GKwUi cÖvš—

AciwUi Dci Pvcv‡bv (Overlap) _v‡K|

†cvkvK ‣Zixi †¶‡Î G wQgwU LyeB Kg e¨envi Kiv nq

KviY Kvc‡oi gy³ cªvš— n‡Z m~Zv Ly‡j mgm¨vi m„wó

K‡i|

‡jcW wQg (Lapped Seam)

evDÛ wQg (Bound Seam)

G †kªYxi wQg •Zix Ki‡Z Kgc‡¶ `ywU Kvco jv‡M| GKwU

Kvc‡oi cÖvš— Ab¨ KvcowU Øviv gy‡o (Bounded) †`Iqv nq

weavq evDÛ wQg e‡j|

†h KvcowU Øviv gy‡o †`Iqv nq H KvcowU mvaviYZ wfbœ

i‡Oi e¨envi Kiv nq| G †kªYxi wQg mvaviYZ †cvkvK

•Zixi Rb¨ e¨envi Kiv nqbv, KviY †h KvcowU Øviv g~‡o

†`Iqv nq Dnvi cÖvš— n‡Z m~Zv Ly‡j hvq | evDÛ wQg •Zixi

Rb¨ †mjvB †gwk‡b †dvìvi e¨envi Kiv `iKvi nq|

evDÛ wQg mvaviYZ †MwÄ, Rvw½qv, c¨v›U, †g‡q‡`i †cvkvK,

w¯­wcs my¨U BZ¨vw`‡Z e¨envi Kiv nq|

evDÛ wQg (Bound Seam)

d¬vU wQg (Flat Seam)

yBwU Kvc‡oi cÖvš— †Rvov jvwM‡q G †kªYxi wQg •Zix

Kiv nq Z‡e cÖvš— `ywU cvkvcvwk Ae¯’vb K‡i A_©vr

GKwU cÖvš— Ab¨wUi Dci ¯’vcb (Overlap) Kiv nq bv|

gv‡S gv‡S †m․›`‡h©i D‡Ï‡k¨ (Decorative Purpose) cÖvš—

`ywUi g‡a¨ dvK (Gap) †i‡LI wQg •Zix Kiv nq|

wb‡UW Kvc‡oi ‡cvkvK •Zix‡Z I AvÛvi Mv‡g©›Um G

eûj fv‡e e¨envi Kiv nq|

d¬vU wQg (Flat Seam)

‡kvfvcÖ` wQg (Decorative Seam)

G †kªYxi wQg‡K c~‡e© †W‡Kv‡iwUf wówPs ejv n‡Zv|

cÖavbZ G †kªYxi wQg Drcbœ I e¨envi Kiv nq

†cvkv‡Ki †kvfv ev †m․›`h© e„w×i Rb¨ Ges G Kvi‡YB

†W‡Kv‡iwUf wQg e‡j|

GK ciZv (Layer) ev GKvwaK ciZv Kvc‡oi g‡a¨ GKwU

ev GKvwaK cvkvcvwk w÷‡Pi jvBb •Ziix K‡i G †kªYxi

wQg •Zix Kiv nq|

wPÎ bs-7/5 G K‡qK cÖKvi †W‡Kv‡iwUf wQg †`Lv‡bv

n‡q‡Q| Gme wQg •Zix Ki‡Z GKvwaK m~B wewkó (Multi

Needle) †mjvB †gwkb I Dnvi mv‡_ †dvìvi `iKvi nq|

‡kvfvcÖ` wQg (Decorative Seam)

cÖvš— wb‡Uwbs (Edge Neatening)

G †kªYxi wQg cÖavbZ GKwU Kvc‡oi cÖv‡š— Ggb

fv‡e •Zix Kiv nq hv‡Z Kvc‡oi cÖvš— n‡Z

Kvc‡oi ga¨¯’ m~Zv †ei n‡q Avm‡Z bv cv‡i|

cÖvš— wb‡Uwbs (Edge Neatening)