Huatulco EyeLiving and Loving the Oaxacan RivieraIssue No. 8 September, 2011

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Huatulco Moment By Camille Grace Photography

gaurei@hotmail.comwww.bbaguaazul.com

(011-52) 958-5810265

Agua Azul la Villa B&BAn intimate alternative to a five star resort.

Ocean Views

Spacious Terrazas

Canadian Hosts

Conejos, Huatulco.

www.huatulcoeye.com

Don Felix Ramirez

Alebrijes, Tangolunda

Huatulco Indoor Soccer Team leaving for Guanajuato to compete in the

National Championship Gravity Sports Divers!

Casa de la Cultura getting ready for the new school year

and workshops for the community

Casa de la Nona, La Crucecita

Quinceñera, Sidney, ready to attend mass in

La Crucecita.

Citizens walk to the funeral of Don Felix.

On July 28th, 2011 Huatulco lost one its oldest citizens, Felix Ramirez Tweedy, who was born in Santa Maria Huatulco in 1923. He is survived by his wife Virginia and 14 children. He was the inspiration for the main character in the book Huatulquenos by Leonardo Dajandra.

In Memoriam

Along the Riviera...

EDITOR`S LETTER

Editor: Jane BauerWriters: Marcia Chaiken, Caryl Delaney, Julie Etra, Kathy Taylor, Doreen Woelfel, Brooke Gazer, Carole Reedy, Alvin StarkmanContributors:Birgit Adamofsky, Camille McAdieLayout Manager: Johnny GonzalezAdvertising Manager: Alfredo Patiño

Opinions and words are those of the author and do not reflect the opinion of Huatulco Eye. To be a collaborator please send us an email huatulcoeye@yahoo.com

See you next month,

Jane

Advertise in The Eyehuatulcoeye@yahoo.com

“Tourists don’t know where they’ve been, travelers don’t know where

they’re going.” – Paul Theroux

ravel requires adjustment. Tourism requires carefully planning. A

great vacation getaway! How many times has the image of a pristine Tbeach, chaise-lounge and fruity cocktail been photographed to

promote a destination area? Countless- could be Jamaica, the Dominican,

Cancun or Huatulco. You choose the best priced package, you check all the

best travel chat rooms to make sure the hotel stocks your favourite beer and

offers sailing classes every morning with an English-speaking guide! You

have an amazing time and return home with a tan that, despite ozone layer

depletion warnings, is the envy of all your co-workers.

Travel is something a little bit different. It doesn't have to be an Eat, Pray,

Love kind of a commitment, it doesn't require staying in a cheap hotel and

using the backpack that has been sitting in the basement since college.

Travel is a state of mind. It is about changing your routine, expecting the

unexpected, learning a new language and embracing the potential for self

development. The Oaxacan Riviera offers a multitude of experiences that

don't require a tour bus or a guide.

1. Walk around.

2. Have lunch at the Mercado 3 de Mayo en La Crucecita.

3. Venture up the coast, Zipolite, Mazunte, Escondido.

4. Visit Piña Palmera- bring them toys or school supplies.

5. Learn some Spanish.

Craft villages, market towns, colonial architecture and renowned cuisine. Oaxaca City is a 35 minute flight

or a scenic 6 hour drive from Huatulco.

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as Damas Promotoras de Marina Huatulco hold a benefit breakfast at the Naval base ten times annually. The program is not unique to Huatulco as Angeles LLópez de Angeli, explained “every Military post in Mexico hosts a similar event,

which is open to the public and it is the obligation of the officers wives to organize it”. Compulsory or not, this small group obviously enjoy the task and tackle it with both military precision and genuine enthusiasm. It is the details that make these breakfasts exceptional and Angeles told me that they spend the entire day prior to each event seeing to the finer points including designing center pieces and organizing prizes. Their efforts obviously pay off since they consistently attract over 100 ladies every month.

The proceeds go toward the Marine Medical facility where they have purchased needed equipment such as an ECG machine and ultra sound equipment, blood pressure and glucose monitors, as well as furnishings to make the facility more comfortable for patients. This would include four TVs and a DVD player. The televisions have been placed in the men's ward, the women's ward, outer waiting area and in the specialities department.

The breakfast is for ladies only and is an excellent opportunity to participate in an informal local affair. While it is not necessary, the ability to speak some Spanish is helpful. Tables are set for ten, so you will immediately be part of a larger group. If you initiate conversation, it is likely that the ladies at your table will try to include you in their conversations. The volunteers make an effort to ensure that everyone feels welcome, greeting each person as they come in and circulating around the room stopping to laugh and chat at every table. Angeles and the others are bubbling over with contagious enthusiasm.

Each breakfast has a theme and about every third month someone donates entertainment. This would usually be in the form of music but in May a comedian dressed as a clown did a stand up comedy routine lasting about 40 minutes. Humour can be difficult to translate but several gags were physical and even with my

For Ladies Only

By Brooke Gazer

limited Spanish, I was able to get the gist of it. The real delight however was simply being part of a casual group of women with a light hearted spirit where laughter was infectious. In addition to a wholesome breakfast in a beautiful setting served by military personnel, every event includes a raffle of several prizes. Your ticket automatically qualifies you for the draws but additional tickets may be purchased for 25 pesos. Prizes are donated so the number and quality varies from month to month. Normally six to ten prizes are drawn. Prizes could include: a blender, a coffee maker, various sets of Tupperware or dishes, handbags, perfume or cosmetics or services such as a massage or a haircut. Again the prizes are a nice value added touch for the 100 pesos, but what I really enjoyed was the overwhelming enthusiasm. Each time a winner was announced the whole table burst into raucous applause as if that person had just won a million dollar lottery. Everyone enjoys being a winner, no matter the prize but the real winner here is the hospital and ultimately the community.

Next breakfast is September 1st. The theme relates to the Mexican Independence Day, celebrated on September 16th. Everyone is asked to wear national folkloric clothing and an annual contest is held for the best costume. This is a great opportunity to see a wide range of native costumes from around Mexico.

Reservations are required and can be arranged by calling the office of the Naval Sector TEL: 958 587 2456. Tickets are 100 pesos per person The Breakfast is held in the palapa overlooking Playa Violin on the Navy base.

In Sept there will also be a DINNER and DANCE for both ladies and their escorts. thSaturday, Sept 10 at 8PM. The cost is 200 pesos/person. Dress is in national

costume and there will be prizes awarded for the best dressed couple in national costume as well as individual national costume.

Brooke Gazer operates a B&B in Huatulco www.bbaguaazul.com

one of us expect to get sick when we come to Huatulco but sometimes things happen and it is reassuring to know that good modern medical services are available. The Military Medical NCenter on Boulevard Chahue was constructed in 2000 with its primary mandate to service

military personal and their families; however it became available to the general public in 2007. As one would expect, the hospital is run with military precision. While it is a small facility, with limited services, Lieutenant Dr. Miguel Angel Marquez, says that it offers a quality of service equal to any hospital in Mexico.

The Medical Center houses one surgery suite and two general wards with a total of 18 beds. In addition there are five beds for post partum patients, one isolation room, and two beds in an intensive care unit; this unit also has one neonatal crib. There is a small children's section with two beds, plus a pediatric isolation room. Finally there is a private room reserved for high ranking officers. This is more luxurious than the rest of the hospital and is available upon request when is not occupied by military staff or their family.

Lieutenant Marques was particularly proud to list a hyperbaric chamber (decompression chamber) among the hospital's equipment. Most of us think of this apparatus only as something to save the lives of divers which is good to have in a resort area where diving is a common activity. However, the hyperbaric chamber is also used to treat diabetics who have problems with their extremities, people suffering from migraine headaches and in case of stroke, it can minimize the brain damage if therapy is received within a few hours. Along with the typical diagnostic lab and x-ray services the facility also offers fluoroscopy. This is a type of imaging that shows a continuous x-ray image on a monitor, much like an x-ray movie. It is used to diagnose or treat patients by displaying the movement of a body and is especially useful in treating fractures in joints.

In addition to general medicine the hospital employs a variety of specialists. These include: Emergency medicine, ENT, General Surgery, Ob. Gyn., Internal Medicine, Orthopaedic and Orthodontist. Some specialists are military personnel; others are civilians working under contract who may also have with a private practice. However, by choosing this hospital, you are assured of a minimum standard of care regardless of the military affiliation.

A visit to a general practitioner will run $260-310 pesos, a specialist $350 pesos and a visit to the emergency room $650 pesos. If you area admitted to the hospital, the cost is $500 pesos per day plus any tests, medicine or equipment necessary and $400 pesos for the attendant physician. While the hospital does not have a cardiologist the IM can treat cardiac events in an emergency and the hospital is equipped to administer antithrombotic drugs.

Knowing how and where to access the hospital is important as there are two entrances. From 8:00AM to1:30 PM use the main entrance on Blvd. Chahue. If you attempt to enter the main entrance of the hospital outside these hours you will be turned away. After 1:30 the side entrance is open for regular doctor visits until 6:00PM.This is also the emergency entrance and the hospital is open for emergency service 24 hours.

Whether your stay in Huatulco is for a few days or several years, we hope that you will not require medical service… but isn't it reassuring to know where to go in the event that you do.

Brooke Gazer operates a B&B in Huatulco www.bbaguaazul.com

In Case of IllnessBy Brooke Gazer

Cooking ClassesFood Services

Huatulco, México

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Graphic design, Offset, Plotter, Awnings,

Signs, Publicity materialsGardenia 501, La Crucecita

TThe original flag was designed in 1821 by Antonio

Gómez Romero, a resident of the city of Pénjamo in the

state of Guanajuato. Since then there have been nine

official versions of the flag, with the current version

adopted in 1986 and designed by Francisco Eppens

Helguera. One can find all the nine Mexican flags in the

Museum of Mexican History in Monterrey, Nuevo León.

The current flag shows a Royal Eagle (El águila real or

águila caudal; Aquila chrysaetos is the scientific

name). A likely reason for the re-design was that until

the Olympic Games held in 1968 in Mexico City (a very

big deal at the time for a developing Spanish-speaking

country, and producing numerous world records due

to the high-elevation environment), the Mexican flag,

without the shield was for all practical purpose

identical to the Italian flag with three identical colors.

The rectangular flag is divided equally among three

vertical bands, green, white and red (from left to right).

The colors originated from the flag of the of the Army of

Three Guarantees (rough translation) in 1821 during

the fight for independence from Spain, with green

signifying independence, white signifying religion

(Catholicism) and red, national heroes.

The version used today is based on an adaptation of a

design approved by presidential decree (President

Venustanio Carranza) in 1916 showing the eagle in

profile rather than looking straight ahead.

the origins and symbolism of the Mexican flag

are fascinating and instructive. The current

flag has morphed over the years and has its

own complex history.

nature. The Codex Mendoza is a pictorial document,

with Spanish annotations and commentary, composed

around 1541. It is divided into three sections depicting

each Aztec ruler and their conquests; a list of the

tribute paid by each tributary province; and a general

description of daily Aztec life.

The Aguila Reál is a well-known bird of prey widely

distributed in Mexico, known to us of course as the

Golden eagle. It is in the taxonomic Family

Accipitridaeaeand includes hawks and kites as well as

eagles. As with other eagles, it is a large bird of prey.

Despite being extirpated from previous range, it is wide

spread and occurs in Eurasia and parts of Africa as well

as North American. The highest density of nesting birds

occurs in Alameda County, California. Its most

common prey are rabbits (hares and cottontails).

It is unclear which species of nopal the Aguila real is

perched upon in the shield, as there are many species,

and they readily hybridize, often confounding correct

identification. Non-experts often lump many of the

species under the common name 'prickly pear'.

Opuntia, the genus for prickly pears, comes from the

ancient Greek city of Opus. Nopal comes from the

nahuatl word nōpalli for the pads. The most common

culinary species used for the fruit and prepared pads is

Opuntia ficus-indica.

thFlag day is celebrated on the 24 of February so put

than on your calendar and fly the flag in celebration.

The current shield shows the Royal Eagle in profile with

wings spread above the pads of the nopal cactus in an

aggressive posture. claw rests on a flowering and

fruiting nopal (the fruits are called 'tuna' in Spanish

and are quite delicious albeit very seedy) while the eagle

devours a snake. The nopal grows from a crag that is

emerging from a lake. Two semi-circular branches, one

of laurel (to the right) and of oak (to the left) are united

by a ribbon corresponding to the bands on the flag

itself.

The eagle motif that constitutes the shield at the center

of the flag goes back centuries to the founding of Mexico

City. México-Tenochtitlan, meaning in náhuatl 'place of

ththe cactus pads', was founded on the 18 of July 1325,

according to a number of documented sources and

populated by nahuas migrating from Aztlán (whose

location remains unknown). According to Aztec

(nahual) religious beliefs, nahuas, mexicas, or future

Mexicans left Aztlán searching for the perfect place to

build a new city. The god Huitzilopochtli instructed

them to build a city where they found an eagle

devouring a snake perched on a cactus, Supposedly

after 200 years of searching (makes Moses look

efficient) the nahuas/Aztecs/Mexicans observed the

eagle and nopal on a small island in Lake Texcoco and

founded Tenochtitlan, now Mexico City.

Eagles appear throughout the acheologoical pre-

columbian record as important Aztec symbols and

continued after the Sapnish conquest. Note the eagle

motif on the first page of the Codice (Codex) Mendoza

depicting the foundation of Mexico City. Codices were

aztec 'books' but mostly pictoral in

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PRESENTS

EL GRITO CELEBRATIONBy

September is “El mes de la Patria” which means no matter how bad things are in the

country you will feel so proud to be Mexican (by birth or by choice), it is when you see the

Mexican flag waving everywhere and you feel you are in the right place. In Huatulco, the

festivities are held at the Agencia Municipal, behind Marina Park Plaza in Chahue. thBeginning on the 13 there is the celebrations of The Niños Heroes, a memorial service to

the cadets that fought to defend the Castillo de Chapultepec during the Mexican-American

war. In the evenings there is the fair where you will find great real Mexican food, rides, thnoise, fireworks, live music and lots of fun. On the 15 is the big celebration and it is when

the higher authority comes out and gives the Grito de Independencia, which is a

remembrance of the “cry” that the father of independence, priest Miguel Hidalgo gave back

in 1810 to start the war of independence from Spain. Wherever you are in Mexico you

should join these festivities, filled with tradition and folklore.

Alfredo Patiño

Right: Mural by Diego RiveraLeft: Poster for El Grito de Dolores.

The Mexican Flag, Eagles, and Cactusby Julie Etra

www.yogahuatulcoMEXICO.com

hile tequila is the best known Mexican produced spirit, visitors to southern Mexico are usually aware that mezcal is the drink of choice throughout the Wstate of Oaxaca. But there's sometimes confusion amongst tourists

regarding the differences between mezcal, pulque, aguamiel, tepache and aguardiente.

Mezcal in OaxacaMezcal is produced from several varieties of agave (often known as maguey), though commercial production utilizes mainly agave espadín. The preferred method of production is to harvest the plant after 8 – 10 years of growth. The leaves are removed and the heart is baked, traditionally in an in-ground oven. Next it's crushed with the help of a beast of burden. The fibrous mash, with water added, is fermented in pine vats for 1 – 2 weeks. Distillation follows. Mezcal drips from the spigot, usually ready for sale after a second distillation. Mezcal is often aged in oak to make reposado or añejo, or otherwise altered during or after distillation to produce pechuga, herbal, or sweet mezcals called cremas.

While there are large mezcal producers which use hi–tech equipment to make mezcal for both domestic and export consumption, there are probably well over 1,000 small, hillside and village mezcal producers who follow the age-old production methods. Families recount fascinating histories of mezcal production dating back centuries. While most believe that distillation was introduced into Mexico by the Spanish, some research suggests indigenous peoples were distilling before The Conquest.

Mezcal versus Pulque and AguamielBy contrast, there's no doubt that imbibing pulque was a pre-Hispanic tradition. It continues today throughout Mexico, including Oaxaca. Pulque is not “transformed into mezcal,” and mezcal is not “distilled pulque.” Mezcal is made using the baked heart of the agave, whereas pulque is produced by simply fermenting aguamiel, literally “honey water.”

The varieties of agave used to make pulque are collectively known as pulqueros. The pulquero matures after 12 to 20 years when a stock shoots up. It's immediately cut down. A well is carved out of the middle. The well is protected from insects by being covering with cloth. Over the ensuing 8 – 10 hours the well fills with liquid, aguamiel. The aguamiel is removed, and the well is scraped out a bit more and once again covered and left for several hours. The process is repeated, usually twice daily, for two to four months, depending on the size of the plant and other factors.

Aguamiel is allowed to naturally ferment. Fermented aguamiel is called pulque. Fermentation can be sped up by adding pulque as a starter. If pulque is left too long it

A Primer on Oaxaca's Fermented & Distilled Spirits: Pulque, Mezcal, Tepache & Aguardiente

By Alvin Starkman, M.A., LL.B.

can become virtually undrinkable, at least to the Western palate. If you encounter pulque in a market, and it's not strong enough, ask the stall owner to add some stronger pulque which has been fermenting longer. Often pulque vendors also sell tepache.

Tepache – Pineapple PlusTepache has many different formulations, some of which include mezcal or pulque. All use pineapple as the primary ingredient. Some tepache producers simply use the discard from peeling pineapple, leaving it to ferment. Others use pineapple flesh, while others add the occasional spice, and often piloncillo, a sugar care derivative available in marketplaces. The recipe of the late Don Valente Nieto, son of Doña Rosa of black pottery fame, calls for mezcal, pineapple and piloncillo being combined and left out in the sun in a glass container placed in a pit.

Aguardiente is Less Commonly Imbibed in OaxacaAguardiente is produced in Oaxaca, though not often imbibed in the state capital or central valleys. Nevertheless at times it becomes a topic of conversation during discussions amongst Oaxacans relating to the purity of mezcal or mixed drinks which are purported to contain tequila and no other spirit.

Aguardiente is a generic name for beverages of high alcoholic content. The word translates to “firewater,” since agua in Spanish means “water,” and ardiente means “burning.” It is produced in Mexico and elsewhere throughout Latin American, though known by different names depending on the country. Similarly there are different formulations. There is grain-, fruit-, and sugarcane-based aguardiente. However aguardiente made with sugarcane is the most commonly produced, certainly in Mexico, and more particularly in the coastal areas of Oaxaca.

Near Oaxaca's Pacific coast there is at least one “mezcal” producer who concocts what is purportedly mezcal; but it contains aguardiente. The difference in taste is obvious to those accustomed to drinking mezcal. In the state capital, when one comes across a clear mezcal which seems uncharacteristically sweet, it may have aguardiente added. But these are rare exceptions and should not dissuade the daring becoming aficionados of Oaxacan mezcal, pulque and tepache.

Alvin & Arlene Starkman operate Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast Contact Alvin at if you're

considering a trek into the mountains or agave fields to learn about mezcal and pulque. www.oaxacadream.com oaxacadream(at)hotmail.com

Left: Crushing baked agave the old-fashioned way.Right Scooping out aguamiel from the heart of a pulquero agave. Photos by Alvin Starkman

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th steptember 16 marks the 201 year of Mexico's

Independence, and throughout the country Sthere will be parades and fireworks and feasts.

Surely Mexico got it right when they picked their flag

colors - red, green and white! Who couldn't make a great

meal based on foods of those colors? Chiles en nogada

(see recipe in August Huatulco Eye), red, white and

green rice, moles in a rainbow of colors and flavours,

tamales with a variety of fillings….all of these are

celebratory foods, the ones that are family favorites and

cultural classics. When I asked Alfredo Patino (Eye thpublisher) what he would be eating on September 16 ,

there was no hesitation, “pozole!”

Pozole, a fragrant, thick soup/stew, has many

variations, mostly regional…but whether you are eating

green (Guerrero) or red (Jalisco or Michoacan) or white

(Guadalajara) pozole, or pozole made with chicken or

seafood (Veracruz), or most often, pork, it is almost

always advertised as RICO POZOLE. Eating pozole is so

celebratory, and so popular, that in many places

throughout Mexico, certain days are designated pozole

days. In Zihuatenejo, Guerrero, Thursdays are

celebrated pozole day, with a whole street of restaurants

called Pozole Alley featuring steaming cauldrons of the

stuff. Here in Huatulco Saturday seems to be pozole

day, with lots of local holes-in-the wall hanging out their

Rico Pozole sign; a few restaurants have it on the menu

all the time (Casa de Naranja, Los Gallos).

So what is the deal with pozole anyhow? Well, in the

beginning there was corn. “Since corn was a sacred

plant for the Aztecs and other inhabitants of

Mesoamerica, pozole was made to be consumed on

special occasions.” (www.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pozole)

Pozole, a Nahuatl word that means “foamy” is the name

for dried kernels of corn which have been treated with

cal, an alkaline solution, which denatures the germ and

so makes for long storage periods without fear of

sprouting. The cal also slightly changes the taste of the

corn, which is the distinctive taste of pozole.

Pozole is available to the cook in a few different ways.

Dried is the very conventional way, and in many villages

is found at the local tortilleria. Pozole cooked with the

dry corn, often nixtamalized (the cal process) by the

home cook, will definitely be an all day affair. But

pozole is also available processed, peeled and pre-

cooked as a convenience ingredient. It is found in the

refrigerated dairy case of Mexican supermarkets in a

plastic pillow pack. I had a package of just this

convenience pozole in my hand the other day in the

grocery store when a friend passed by and said, “If you

are going to make pozole, you have to go the whole way.

You have to get the head of a pig.” I know, I know. But

although I have eaten pozole with the head of a pig in the

pot, and although I love the cheeks, and it is definitely

the authentic way to do it, it is quite a different thing to

start from scratch myself. The trotters are quite another

thing, however, and I don't find them so difficult, having

grown up in a half Ukrainian household. We used them,

pig's feet and hocks, to make headcheese (minus the

head). In my gringa opinion, for a rich tasting pozole,

pork shoulder, augmented with a few trotters, is

sufficient.

Besides its tradition as a celebratory meal, pozole really

just makes sense for a big fiesta. A huge vat of the stew

can be cooked on an outdoor fire, stoked and stirred

lovingly, often through the night, to feed a big family or

a village. It is relatively inexpensive, and can be held

indefinitely, served hot or room temperature, and is

just plain delicious.

One of the marvelous things about pozole is that it is the

ultimate “custom” foods. There is a joke that goes,”!Ah,

que Mexicanos estos, le ponen la ensalada a la sopa!”

“Ah, those Mexicans! They put salad in the soup.”

This is quite literally how you eat pozole. A tray of

toppings accompanies the steaming bowl of pozole, and

you dress your stew according to your individual taste.

Shredded cabbage or crispy iceberg lettuce add a little

sweetness, crisp red radishes sliced thinly add a

peppery bite, chopped onions give an aromatic edge,

wedges of lime squeezed into the broth brighten the

taste and balance the sweetness of the pork and the

corn, toasted dried Mexican oregano imparts a great

earthy depth, and of course toasted chiles stirred into

the caldo heat it up.

One of my favourite Jalisco pozole joints also offers

platters of pickled pig's feet and onions (patitas

escabeche) with crisp tostadas and jalapeno rajas

alongside its pozole. Rico, muy rico. By the way, pozole

and all the accoutrements are known as fantastic

hangover cures. Pozole is also delicious when

accompanied with sipping tequila or mescal. (Tequila

before, during, after…)

Another Mexican saying about pozole is that there are

as many recipes for pozole as there are people who love

it! “Hay tantas recetas de pozole como personas que lo

confeccion.” Rick Bayless, Patricia Quintana, and I am

sure, Alfredo's mom, have delicious and authentic

recipes for pozole, but I am sharing with you a really

basic recipe from one of my favourite books, Culinary

Mexico by Daniel Hoyer. I have a big crockpot that I use,

but I have made it on the stove as well. Also note that

you can use chicken stock instead of water or pork

stock. And if you have never eaten patitas, come on over thto my house on September 16 , we will be having RICO

POZOLE and patitas escabeche.

Provecho!

RicoPozoleBy Kathy Taylor

Pozole Estilo de MichoacanHominy and Pork StewIngredients16 to 24 ounces fresh or frozen pozole (or 1 ½ cups dry pozole that has been soaked in cool water for 8 to 12 hours, then drained)2 ½ pounds pork-stew meat or pork-shoulder meat cut into 1-inch cubes2 tablespoons pork lard or vegetable oil 1 medium white onion, diced3 cloves garlic, coarsely choppedGenerous pinch of cumin1 to 2 tablespoon toasted Mexican oregano2 bay leaves, toastedPinch of ground cloves or allspice1 ancho chile and 1 guajillo chile, toasted, stemmed, seeded and coarsely chopped1 chipotle chile en adobe, pureed (optional)Water or pork broth as needed Salt to tasteMakes 6 to 8 servings

1. Gently boil the pozole in enough water to cover for 25 to 40 minutes. The kernels will just begin to

open up or “blossom”.

2. In a separate skillet, salt and brown the pork in the lard or vegetable oil. Remove from the pan and

lightly brown the onion and garlic.

3. Return the pork to the pan and add the spices, the chopped chiles, and chile puree if using.

4. Stir well and fry for about 3 minutes, then add water or broth to 1 inch above the meat.

5. Bring to a boil, cover, and reduce heat. Simmer 25 to 35 minutes until the meat begins to get tender.

6. Combine with the pozole and simmer for 25 to 40 minutes more until meat is very tender.

7. Serve this stew topped with shredded cabbage, chopped inions, radishes, fresh limes, cilantro,

toasted oregano, toasted chile powder, and cotija or other sharp, crumbly cheese for garnish.

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Autumn In Mexico City: A Mosaic Of Culture From The Olmecs To Pearl Jam.

tanley Horowitz said, “Winter is an etching,

spring a watercolor, summer an oil painting and Sautumn a mosaic of them all.”

And so it is in Mexico City.stTo celebrate the 201 anniversary of the Independence

of México, festivities begin in the Zócalo on September

15. At 11 pm from the balcony of the National Palace the

president of México will give the grito (literally, “shout”),

the same call for independence that was given by Padre

Miguel Hidalgo on that date in 1810. Cries of “Viva

Mexico!” fill the Zócalo as the president reads from the

text of Padre Hidalgo's discourse, followed by a

spectacular fireworks show.

Just a few miles away at the Auditorio Nacional, some of

México's most famous performers have been singing

and dancing their hearts out (starting at 9 pm) at the

concert appropriately entitled Alegría Mexicana.

Beloved tenor Fernando de la Mora, accompanied by the

Méxican Philharmonic Orchestra and Mariachi Gama

1000, heads the bill with special guest star Armando

Manzanero, author of more than 600 songs. World

renowned Ballet Folklórico de Mexico de Amalia

Hernández has been entertaining spectators for more

than 50 years and will charm us once again that

evening. Musical group TIen-Huicani y Rafael Basurto-

called the last voice of the Panchos-rounds out the

evening, which concludes in the Zocalo with the grito

and fireworks.

Midday on Sept. 16, Paseo de la Reforma will be closed to

traffic to accommodate the traditional Independence

Day parade. This is a national holiday, so banks and

businesses will be closed.

Be sure to make time to enjoy the traditional dish Chiles

en Nogada, available only in August and September

r when pomegranates are in season, and offered in many

restaurants now. The chiles are prepared with more

than 35 ingredients and topped with a goat cheese

sauce, pomegranate seeds, and parsley--white, red, and

green--in the design of the Mexican flag.

The rest of the 2011 fall season will be just as dramatic

as the start.

Thirty eight hundred years ago, the Olmecs, recognized

as the first great culture in Mexico, populated the

southern states of Tabasco and Veracruz. Their

colossal sculptures (some of the giant heads are 2

meters high!) currently dominate the halls of the

Museum of Anthropology, through October. The

museum itself is magnificent, and it takes several visits

to see all its wonders. Well organized by culture, the

museum is extremely tranquil, especially the gardens

adjacent to each cultural exhibit, which offer the harried

traveler a respite from busyness. Beginning in October,

the exhibition Body Beautiful, a collection of Greek and

Roman sculptures on loan from the British Museum,

will adorn the museum.

If “music hath charms to soothe the savage beast” there

will be only peace this fall in Mexico City. The city is lit

up with musical events of every flavor.

On October 15, Donizetti's bel canto opera Anna Bolena

will open the ever-popular Metropolitan Opera Live HD

Transmissions Season at the Auditorio Nacional. In

the past two years, interest in these operas has grown in

Mexico City as well as throughout the world. Five operas

will finish the year, with more in 2012. New productions

of Wagner's Siegfried and Mozart's Don Giovanni take

place on October 29 and November 5, followed by Phillip

Glass' Satyagraha on November 19. Cap your opera

year will with Rodelinda by Handel on December 3 and

Fausto December 10.

A real highlight of these transmissions are the

interviews with the opera stars conducted in English

during intermissions.

A special treat for Mexico City opera fans: Before the

opera there is an informative and insightful lecture on

the work to be performed that day, given by opera expert

Sergio Vela. Lectures begin one and a half hours before

the transmission and given in Spanish at the lunario

behind the Auditorio. Don't miss them!

Mexico loves Andre Rieu. His October 8 concert surely

will be a sellout, so get your tickets early through

Ticketmaster.

Popular concerts take place every week. The

outstanding ones for this Fall include two concerts from

Justin Bieber on October 1 and 2; Guns and Roses on

October 18 and Mana on October 28, both taking place

at the Palacio de Deportes. Pearl Jam will celebrate its

20th anniversary tour on November 24 at Foro Sol.

The entire family will delight in the multi-faceted Cirque

de Soleil. Several performances are scheduled

beginning October 30 and running through November

20 at Carpa Santa Fe. Don't be put off by the distance

from Centro. Santa Fe is easily accessible by bus on

Reforma or via taxi.

For these events and more, consult Tiempo Libre

(available at kiosks on every corner) and enjoy your days

in the city that chilangos consider the safest in the

country.

Carole Reedy, author of this article, is happy to answer

any of your quest ions about Mexico City:

carolina_reedy(at)yahoo.com

By Carole Reedy

As a retired history teacher, it is amazing what the United State doesn't teach in history classes. Those who have taught or do teach history, know exactly what I am talking about. Teaching, I spent a lot of time on events leading up to the Civil War, the Gold Rush, the Western Movement, Texas and Mexico, and that ever all encompassing epic move spurred on by “Manifest Destiny”, that need to move west was meant to be, from a distinctly American point of view.

Under the guise of Manifest Destiny, the United States entered into what was considered their first “foreign” war, with Mexico, in 1847. American Imperialism raised its arms against Mexico, over land, land that held political value for Southerners and slave owners, increasing the spread of slavery at a time when slavery itself had become a thorn in the side of a “Democracy”. Texas was the flashpoint. This led to the invasion of Mexico, the surrender of Veracruz in a blood bath of civilians, and to one of the most historically significant events in Mexican history, the Battle of Chapultepec Castle, and the Boy Heroes. It was a war that gave the US a “war hero” 12th president, Zachary Taylor (who led the battles at the border), and several veterans of both countries who would make names for themselves including Pedro de Ampudia, Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna, Ulysses S. Grant and Winfield Scott. It was this war that saw the beginning of our border issues of today, and the genesis of the unease between Mexico and the United States ever since.

Mexico of 1846 was struggling. It was not the best of times to fend off an invading army. Holding the border at the Rio Grande was galling as well as the thought of giving up on Alta California and New Mexico. But the United States did not meet with a unified, strong, ably led military when they invaded Mexico. Mexicans were united in their feelings about not giving up territory, if not politically aligned to meet the challenge of an invasion of 10,000 troops into its Capital. Mexico was undergoing a change of leadership. From Mariano Pareades, who initially pushed to a return of a monarchy, to Valentin Gomez Farias, a supporter of war and Federalism, and he hooked up with his old nemesis, back from exile in Cuba, Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna (who is a book unto himself on his role in the War,

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Los Niños HeroesBy Doreen Woelfel

including the Alamo, and declaring himself President a few times) in an effort to delay the inevitable.As early as 1845 Polk was rallying troops, and securing posts in strategic locations. Two major skirmishes (Palo Alto and Resaca de la Palma) at the border, and the war was on. Winfield Scott landed with between 10,000-12,000 enthusiastic/patriotic soldiers in the City of Veracruz, March 9, 1847, holy week in Mexico. (This historic timing was not lost on Scott, this was not a coincidence.) The phrase “...from the Halls of Montezuma...” came into being during this time. Many soldiers wrote of Cortez landmarks on their march to Mexico City in their correspondence to families and newspapers. They even wrote of the wealth of archaeological sites and artifacts, that in today's vernacular, blew them away. After two days of continuous shelling, Veracruz fell, with at least 1500 dead, and it is estimated only about 500 were soldiers. Scott moved on to Mexico City, rather easily; according to Meade and Grant, it was a shameful display of out of control American soldiers on an underprepared Mexico military, with antiquated military weapons.

After spending 3 months in Puebla, Scott was ready to take on Mexico City, and the battle started August 20, 1847. The goal was to bring Mexico to its knees and capitulate to the demands of the United States to give up their northern territory. Santa Ana was in charge of Mexico City's defense at this point, as Scott came in from the south. Chapultepec Castle guarded Mexico City from the western approach. Initially a residential palace for viceroys, and to others like Carlotta and Maximilian (and there lies another tale), it had been transformed into the Mexican Military Academy at this time. Sitting on a hill, it was strategic to Mexico City's defense. General Nicolas Bravo was said to have less than 1000 men to hold the castle's position, including 200 cadets as young as 13 years of age. They did plant land mines, but they proved ineffective. The Americans started their bombing the morning of September 12, and by the next morning, September 13, they charged up to the castle.

Rather than surrender the flag, six teen-aged cadets fought to the death. Legend or fact, one of the boys wrapped himself up in the Mexican flag and jumped

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from the castle and into the hearts of every Mexican patriot. Juan de la Barrera their lieutenant, and cadets Agustin Melgar, Vicente Suarez, Francisco Marquez, Fernando Montes de Oca and Juan Esutia(who wrapped the flag around himself) became Los Ninos Heroes (child heroes).

The United States raised its flag over the National Palace in the main plaza the morning of September 14 forcing the eventual Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo to be signed February 2nd, 1848.... Mexicans gave in to the demands of President Polk, accepting the Rio Grande as the boundary of Texas, and a border for New Mexico and California, at the 32nd parallel. The U.S. assumed all debts owed to US citizen, and paid Mexico $15 million for New Mexico and California ($10 million less than what was initially offered before the onset of the war). Mexico lost 55% of their land. By July of 1848, all American troops were out of Mexico. Mexico lost between 25,000 to 50,000 people, depending on various accounts, the US lost nearly 14,000 (mostly to disease).

The United States moved on to a Civil War, furthered by the very land they gained from Mexico, as it then became embroiled in the slave state/non slave state entry into the Union. And a final blow, gold was discovered in California, just a year after the Treaty was signed. Mexico moved on to more misery as well. The war bankrupted Mexico, rebellions were taking place in various pockets of discontent, the gap between rich and poor became unbearable, and Santa Anna became president for the 11th time in 1853. A civil war ensued, the War of Reform, to try to rectify injustices, and then yet again, another invasion of Mexico, from the French. The United States invaded Mexico two more times, 1914, and again in 1916, and thus Mexico's hardline against U.S. intervention was solidified.

You can visit Chapultepec Castle today, and like all museums in Mexico City, you can see it for free on Sundays; it sits in the heart of Chapultepec Park, and has become a museum/memorial for the boys who faced certain defeat with honor, bravery, and patriotism.

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Check out my blog: www.doreeneliza-huatulcopassages.blogspot.com

Take a taxi to the Plaza La Crucecita (30 pesos). Step inside the church to see the paintings by Pepe del Signo. This part of town, called La Crucecita, was built in the late 1980's when the development was originally planned. Walk down to Bugambilia and Colorin and stop at the weaving shop (called telares) to see the weavers making traditional blankets and placemats. Walk back up Bugumbila stop on the corner of the main square at Zamora for a refreshing passion fruit water (agua de maracuya, 12 pesos), keep walking to the Mercado 3 de mayo- quite a few stalls have mezcal tastings and there are many places here to stop and eat. 1 )Across from the market you can catch the 40 minute microbus to Santa Maria (10 pesos per person). Get off at the main plaza, it is the last stop. Here you can visit the Our Lady of Conception Church. There are exhibits in the municipal buildings about the history of the area. Definitely stop and try the tostadas that are sold around the main square- a little bit of sustenance for walking around the town before boarding the microbus and heading back to Bahias de Huatulco.2) or catch the microbus at the main entrance to the mall, head to Santa Cruz (3 pesos per person) to watch the cruise chips, sit on the beach or stop by one of the cafes for lunch. Be sure and visit the chapel (Capilla de la Santa Cruz) the original site where the cross was placed and worshipped by the indians and where Huatulco gets its name. Huatulco means the place where the cross is worshipped and Nahuatl. 3) or take a collective taxi to Beach La Entrega . The taxis which go to La Entrega stop at Carrizal and Guanacastle. Before getting in ask “ La Entrega Collectivo?” The cost is 10 pesos per person. You will most likely be sharing the taxi with other people maybe a waiter or beach vendor. Don't be shy, this is a great opportunity to practice your Spanish! Get off at El Faro (the lighthouse). This is a beautiful lookout point. From here walk down to the beach La Entrega. This is a busy beach with restaurants and great snorkelling. Check prices before you order! For guided snorkelling we recommend Willy, just ask for him and most people will know who he is. If you get lost along the way… hail a taxi and ask to go back to the ‘Plaza La Crucecita' and try again.

Choose your own adventureAround Town Tour....By Jane Bauer

s much as we love living on the Oaxacan Coast and shopping in our area, the day always comes when even SuperChe doesn't have items we simply must Ahave. Many of us head up over the mountains to Oaxaca City for that kind of

shopping. But a growing number of residents have discovered a secret alternative - Tuxtla Gutiérrez in our neighboring state of Chiapas.

Earlier this year, in March 2011, Tuxtla was recognized by President Calderón as being the first community in Mexico to receive the prestigious safe-city award from the Karolinska Institute in Stockholm. The residents are justifiably proud. Flags announcing this certification lined the main boulevard.

Tuxtla is the State capital and site of 5 universities. In some ways the location feels more like a mid-size college city in the US than a typical colonial city in Mexico. In the 2010 census, Tuxtla was home to 553,278 people, more than twice as many as in the city of Oaxaca. The demographics support a relatively large number of shopping malls, department stores, huge supermarkets, car dealers and tune-up services. Among the shopping choices are US big box stores that offer must-have supplies, including Sam's Club, Super Wal-Mart, Home Depot and Office Max.

The shopping malls seem like a bit of home to gringos; they are anchored by major stores, such as Sears, at both ends and filled with large numbers of upscale boutiques. The food courts provide many choices for fast food fanatics and one mall includes a Cineplex showing a variety of Hollywood movies. For the ultimate at-home experience, one mall is across the street from a Holiday Inn and Crowne Plaza. Both hotels share an incredible morning buffet with excellent selections of American-style and Mexican breakfasts. But beware! Although it may seem like home, imported goods and US-style services come at a price - often higher than in the US.

If indigenous Chiapas crafts are on your list, one of the best places to buy them is at the government-sponsored Casa de las Artesianas on the main drag, Bellisario Dominguez. A small branch store is located in the mall near the Holiday Inn – but the selection is not as extensive. Or better yet, drive about 50 minutes further and hit the outdoor markets in and near San Cristóbal de las Casas (the topic of a future article.)

When tired of shopping, there are other interesting areas to explore. Sumidero Canyon, one of the most beautiful places in Mexico, can be viewed from several overlooks a short distance outside the city. The canyon's soaring cliffs, wonderful flora and fauna, including monkeys, can best be appreciated by a boat trip on the Rio Grijalva. Launch sites are from two embarcaderos in the nearby town of Chiapa de Corzo; the town too is worthy of a couple of hours of exploration. Boat trips are narrated, but only in Spanish. Sunblock and a hat are strongly advised, as are early morning trips to see the animals most active and to avoid the mid-day sun.

ZOOMAT, named after its founder, biologist Miguel Alverez de Toro, is also a Tuxtla attraction. More an animal reserve than a typical zoo, the park is home to more than 100 species of animals native to Chiapas. They roam areas maintained as natural settings ranging from relatively high elevations to lower areas. Humans are kept behind barriers in areas frequented by animals most likely to be harmful to them. However, in many sections of the park, close encounters with non-human species are commonplace. Visitors who lunch at the park's respectable cafeteria are urged to keep a close eye on their selections, since some of the native animals delight in whisking away food.

Parque Madero includes three interesting little museums with informative anthropological, paleontological, and botanical exhibits. Children's amusement rides cater to the younger visitors and on hot days, the park's unenclosed fountains shoot streams of cool water high in the air and attract intrepid visitors of all ages to dash through and receive a welcome soaking spray.

Although the mall food courts and Anglo-style eateries serve standard north-of-the-border food, not to be missed are the wonderful variety of tamales and other Chiapan food served in more traditional restaurants. One of the most popular is Las Pinchachas. Go there for lunch or reserve a table at night for dining and their entertaining show of indigenous dancing, marimba music and comedy. Also worth watching are the diners who are imbibing Las Pinchachas' special alcoholic drink, pumpo. Customers ring bells hanging over their tables for refills. And the folks at the tables with the most frequently tolled bells often become part of the entertainment.

Tuxtla is not on a par with Oaxaca's art, cuisine and architecture. But, if your goal is shopping or a place to stop on the way to or from other places in Chiapas, be sure to give Tuxtla a visit.

Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken make the trip from Huatulco to Tuxtla once a year and return with a full car.

Dear HUATULCO RED CROSS Sponsors, Supporters, & Friends,

On behalf of the ENTIRE Red Cross staff and Mision Roja, we'd like to thank you for your continued sponsorship and fundraising efforts. We are very pleased to announce that after a lot of blood, sweat, and tears (literally) we now have a new state of the art X-Ray machine, as well as a newly conditioned X-Ray room and dark room. This is just ONE of the many improvements taking place at our local Red Cross. We are constantly working on new projects and invite all of you to come take a look for yourself. Without YOU, we would not be able to accomplish this goal, and the many more we have planned for the future. Stay tuned for more Red Cross news and events. Interested in volunteering? Contact Valerie Verhalen cel 958 589 3424 Photos Clockwise: Mission Red and Red Cross

Volunteers, New x-ray machine, old x-ray

Map of Chiapas, Canyon del Sumidero, Sights at the Tuxtla Zoo

New x-ray machine for Huatulco Red Cross.

Tuxtla Gutiérrez A Safe Place to Shop

By Marcia Chaiken

September

Free Movie, Free Popcorn

VACATION HOUSE FOR RENT On the Zimatan River, close to surf spot Barra de la Cruz. 2 bedroom, 2 bath, satellite TV, BBQ, private river access

www.theriverhouse-huatulco.com

To announce your event forFREE on our

calendaremail details to:

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for rates

Tuesday September 6El Secreto de Sus Ojos (Argentina 2009, Spanish with English Subtitles)Ricardo Darin, Soledad VillamilA retired legal counselor writes a novel hoping to find closure for one of his past unresolved homicide cases and for his unreciprocated love with his superior - both of which still haunt him decades later.

Tuesday September 13Man on Fire (USA 2004, English with Spanish Subtitles)Denzel Washington, Christopher Walken, Dakota FanningIn Mexico City, a former assassin swears vengeance on those who committed an unspeakable act against the family he was hired to protect.

Tuesday September 20Presunto Culpable (Mexico Documentary, 2008, Spanish with English Subtitles)Two young Mexican attorneys attempt to exonerate a wrongly convicted man by making a documentary. In the process, they expose the contradictions of a judicial system that presumes suspects guilty until proven innocent.

Tuesday September 27Being Julia (USA 2005, English with Spanish Subtitles)Annette Bening, Jeremy IronsSet in '30s London, the film involves stage actors and their experiences with love and revenge.

Backgammon

Tournament-

Hemingway's, Huatulco

El Saber del Sabor thFestival 1st-11 -

Oaxaca City

Backgammon

Tournament-

Hemingway's, Huatulco

Museum Admission is

FREE in DF

Museum Admission is

FREE in DF

Museum Admission is

FREE in DF

Museum Admission is

FREE in DF

Labor Day- USA/Canada

Ladies Breakfast Benefit

at the Naval- Huatulco

Dia de los Ninos Heroes El Grito Independence Day

Intensive Spanish Language

Class Begins- Huatulco

www.huatulcolanguagecourses.com

First Day of Autumn

Detox Fitness Challenge

Begins- Huatulco

www.yogahuatulcomexico.com

Copa Telmex-Huatulco

Copa Telmex-Huatulco

Copa Telmex-Huatulco

WANTEDAdventurous individual or couple for harbour hopping up the Pacific coast to San Francsico. Spanish speaking and computer oriented. Tentative departure from Huatulco December 1st.email: huatulcoeye@yahoo.comsubject: Harbour Hopping

Irving Goldworm ExhibitionLa Jicara, Oaxaca City

"The trouble with simple living is that, though it can be joyful,

rich, and creative, it isn't simple."- Doris Janzen Longacre