Making a Reenactment Viking Seax

& Sheath

B. Armstrong armstrob@optusnet.com.au

2

Contents ContentsSeax and sheath ............................................................................................. 2 Seax and sheath ........................................................................................................... 3 Introduction ................................................................................................................. 3 List of materials: .......................................................................................................... 4 Consumables ............................................................................................................... 4 Order of work .............................................................................................................. 5 Making the sheath Part A ............................................................................................ 6 Making the handle Part A ............................................................................................ 7 Making the sheath Part B ............................................................................................ 8 Making the handle Part B .......................................................................................... 11 Making the Seax blade .............................................................................................. 14 Hardening and tempering the Seax blade .................................................................. 18 Final finishing and polishing the Seax blade ............................................................ 19 Seax assembly ........................................................................................................... 20 Making the sheath Part C .......................................................................................... 21 Drawings ................................................................................................................... 22

3

Seax and sheath

Introduction

These notes have been produced as guide for the manufacture of a reenactment Seax. The methodology adapted may not be strictly traditional however it has been adopted to allow for the easier manufacture by people who may not have a lot of experience at woodwork or metalwork.

The strongest result would entail producing a tang on the blade long enough to go through the handle and be peened over to hold the handle and brass end pieces in place. By making the handle separately and simulating the peened over tang at the end of the handle with a piece of steel rod allows the handle components to be glued together (with industrial strength Araldite) and shaped separately before being mated with the blade. This makes it much easier to pre-shape and finish the handle. There is some precedent for this from the archeological record which shows a similar method was used for some Seaxes found in Europe.

Similarly a blade would be shaped first before the knife edge is ground. Grinding the knife edge first allows for the use of a simple jig to grind this edge (since it is not curved). This would be much more difficult task once the blade is shaped.

Although a belt sander fitted with a jig is used in these instructions it is possible to file the edge and the blade shape using simple tools (files, a hacksaw and wet and dry emery paper) using the methodology set out here.

A forge has been used to harden the blade however a simple forge adequate for the purpose may be constructed using a few bricks and “Heatbeads” for fuel since the hardening and tempering process is not as critical as it would be for a sword or a knife which had to retain a sharp cutting edge and have spring. All that is necessary is for the blade to have a degree of hardness to resist dints and scratches in use. Many reenactors do not have extensive metalwork or woodworking skills and do not have the money to buy professionally produced equipment. I hope these notes may go some way to helping to produce a Seax which is good looking practical and relatively easy to make.

4

List of materials:

The timber used for the handle was Jarrah an Australian hardwood which is extremely hard and takes a very high polish. Substitute another suitable hardwood if you do not live in Australia or are unable to obtain this timber.

Copper boat nails were used for rivets these are obtainable at any boat chandler.

The copper strips used were flattened plumber saddles used to secure piping.

SEAX Blade:

Annealed spring steel 370mm x 40 mm x 4 mm Hardwood handle 110mm x 45 x 19mm (Jarrah used) Brass handle front 25mm x 20mm x 9mm Brass handle rear 40mm x 20mm x 9mm Steel pin 6mm Diameter 35 mm long Steel nails 20 mm x 1.5 mm (heads removed)

Sheath:

Calf leather 320 mm x 120mm wide 1/2“ Copper pipe 320 mm long

Steel strip 320 mm long x 6mm wide (16 gauge) Brass or Copper strip 40mm x 15 mm (2 off) Copper rivets 6 mm x 2 mm (6 off) Brass wire 14 gauge x 150 mm

Sheath Jig:

Hardwood sheath jig 350mm x 50mm x 19mm (2 off) Stretching former 350 mm x 3 mm MDF or plywood Bolts and nuts bolts and nuts (with washers) 45mm

Consumables 120 grit wet and dry 1 sheet 180 grit wet and dry 1/2 sheet 240 grit wet and dry 1/2 sheet 320 grit wet and dry 1/2 sheet Araldite (super strength)

5

Order of work

The order of work for the making of the sheath (part A, B and C) and the handle (part A and B) has been broken down into multiple parts since a period of drying/curing is necessary for both these components

The order of work is:

1. Sheath part A, 2. Handle part A, 3. Sheath part B, 4. Handle part B, 5. Making the Seax blade, 6. Hardening and tempering the Seax blade, 7. Seax assembly; 8. Sheath part C.

For workshop for which these notes were written only one day was available and participants were supplied with a sheath jig and a handle completed to part A to enable the work to be completed.

The rest of the steps 4 through 7 should be able to be completed by the participants during the day and since workshop participants will have all the elements to complete the sheath (part C) this may be accomplished at home.

6

Making the sheath Part A

In order to make the sheath start by laying out a pattern on the reverse side of the leather. First draw a centre line in the centre of the 320 by 120 mm leather. Next draw a line at 90 Degrees to this across the leather. Across this line on either side of the centre line we mark a distance of 45mm. Then rule lines from these marks to intercept the centre line at the opposite end of leather.

Soak the leather in cold water until saturated. Using the lines previously draw on the leather clamp the wet leather into the sheath jig.

The next step is drive the stretching former into the leather pocket to stretch the leather to shape. Some patience will be required. You may find it useful to use your hands to smooth the leather back up over the former and to rock it from side to side to ease the driving of the former fully home with a hammer (the small piece of grooved wood shown in the top panel should be used to protect the end of the former while using the hammer.. When the former is fully home set the sheath aside to allow the leather to dry.

7

Making the handle Part A

Laid out are the components of the Seax handle. The rear brass piece is drilled centrally with a 6 mm hole to fit the steel pin. Also drill the rear of the wooden handle with a 6mm hole to correctly locate the brass block. The top of the brass block should be flush with the top of the handle and the bottom edge should overhang. This is required to allow the brass to be shaped to match the contour of the wooden handle when the handle is sanded to its final shape.

The front brass piece has three holes drilled in it. A 4.0mm hole located centrally and two 1.5mm holes spaced 2mm from the edge of the central hole along the vertical axis of the brass piece. The central 4.0 mm hole is squared off by driving a tapered square steel pin into the hole with a hammer from both sides of the block (do not use the tang of a file to do this as hitting a file with a hammer may shatter the file). Finish of with a small square file.

This photo shows the hole squared off before the two 1.5 mm holes are drilled. These pins will be covered by the Seax blade when it is assembled to the handle. Their purpose is to securely hold the front brass piece in place while the handle is ground and sanded to its finished shape.

Assemble the handle parts together using industrial strength Araldite (5 minute araldite is not strong enough). Clamp the handle as shown and let stand for at least 24 hrs.

8

Making the sheath Part B

We will use the copper tube to make the backbone of the sheath. Place the tube between two pieces of steel in the vice and flatten out the tube until the gap between the side walls is about double the thickness of the leather (2 mm). The tube could be flattened with a mallet or hammer on a steel block however the method suggested produces a much smoother outer surface which will be easier to sand and finish smoothly without removing excessive material from the copper section.

The end result of flattening the tube should look like this. Note we want to leave a gap wide enough to insert the leather sheath into the copper “U” section.

Using a fence (set to 90 degrees to the belt) sand one edge of the copper away to form the “U” section.

These two pictures show the end result.

9

Sand both sides of the copper section flat. First using the belt sander and then finishing with successive grade of wet and dry. Start with 120 and progress though 180, 240 and finish with 320 grade paper. NOTE The piece of steel strap has been placed into the copper section to stiffen and support it while the sanding and polishing are done. This piece of steel will be inserted into the copper backing along with the leather to stiffen the sheath backbone.

The final step is to burnish and polish the copper strip on the polisher.

The leather strip which we previously stretched to shape is now trimmed down along the top edge so it will fit into the copper “U” section as shown in the pictures. If desired the leather can be stained a different colour and embossed or otherwise decorated at this stage. It can be done later but it is slightly more difficult and more care is needed.

The leather sheath is now inserted into the copper section along with the steel strip Then the copper section is closed up using a rubber mallet to achieve the result shown here.

10

The sheath hangers consist of two copper strips 40mm long by 15mm wide. These are bent as shown around the “D” rings. The “D” rings are formed by winding brass wire tightly around the former (shown here), removing the coil and cutting down the centre of the flat face forms individual “D” rings.

11

Making the handle Part B

After the glued handle has been allowed to set for at least 24 hrs we can start to shape and finish the handle. First the handle should be “squared off” by removing the excess brass and sanding the sides and top and bottom edges smooth. This picture shows the belt sander being used to sand the sides of the handle and the attached brass end pieces flat. The handle should be cooled in a water bucket as required during all the these operations to stop a heat build up in the brass end pieces as this would destroy the glue bond between the wooden handle and the brass end pieces.`

Next we sand the top (convex) edge of the wooden handle and brass end pieces to a smooth flowing curve using the sanding disk. It is important to check that the work table is square to the sanding disk before this operation is commenced. USE A SQUARE TO CHECK THAT THE WORK PLATE IS SQUARE TO THE SANDING DISK EACH TIME IT IS USED.

Now we use the end of the belt sander to sand the lower (concave) edge of the wooden handle and brass end pieces to shape. How square and how well shaped this edge is will be up to you as there is no guide. CHECK YOUR WORK REGULARLY TO ENSURE YOU ARE NOT SANDING OFF SQUARE OR PUTTING HOLLOWS IN THE LOWER EDGE.

12

As shown in this and the picture above different parts of the lower edge can be sanded to shape by employing different parts of the end of the sanding belt.

Here are two views of the squared off handle. A view from the top and the bottom edge. Note that we have not totally removed scratches from the brass end pieces or remaining bit of glue from the handle.

Not shown in this picture montage is the sanding of the ends of the brass pieces. However it is achieved by using the sanding disk and table. As far as possible these two edges should be parallel to each other. If they are not parallel even a casual examination of the finished seax will leave the viewer with the feeling that something about the handle is “not quite right”.

Using a marker pen black out an area 3mm wide on the front side and top edges as a guide to sanding a 45 degree bevel on the handle. Note the top and bottom of the front brass piece will NOT be beveled. If you so desire you can bevel the end of the rear brass piece however it probably looks better just rounded off.

13

The guide fence on the belt sander is set to 45 degrees to use as a guide for sanding the bevel on sides and top of the handle. The concave under side of the handle will have to be beveled by hand using the end of the belt sander.

This shows the handle edges beveled off to a 45 degree angle using the guide marks. From here we will round off all the edges using a finer grade belt on the sander, then using fine files and wet and dry to round all edges to a smooth curve. Finishing off with 320 wet and dry. The handle can then be buffed and polished.

This picture shows the finished handle showing the front brass rounded off on the sides ONLY.

Another view of the finished handle.

14

Making the Seax blade

The first step is to place a grinding guide 10mm from the edge. The easiest way to do this is to use a piece of 10mm aluminum angle against the edge and using a waterproof marking pen scribe a line along the knife blank. Repeat on the other side.

The next step is to grind the edge on the blade. A jig is set up on the belt sander to hold the blade blank at the correct angle and spacing so the correct angle and width of grind is obtained. We wish to finish with a10 mm wide Seax edge with a 1mm flat (required by the reenactment weapon regulations) at the centre of the edge of the blank after both sides have been ground. During the grinding process it is important to keep th blank moving back and forth across the grinding belt so as not to develop “flats” or “gouges” in the knife edge we are grinding. A bucket of water should be kept handy to cool the Seax blank and keep it from getting to hot to handle..

Here we are about half way to completing the grinding on one side. While the jig will help you obtain an even grind small inconsistencies can occur but will not be noticeable in the final result. Large discrepancies on the ground edge however will be noticeable. Consider small discrepancies as adding “character” to the final result. Remember the local blacksmith who though an experienced craftsman probably made them at price the average person could afford . The final result is dependent on the time and effort you wish to put to the project.

15

Grinding is complete on one side. We will now turn the blank over and grind the other side.

The end product will be a Seax blank with a 10mm wide knife edge with a 1mm flat on the edge.

Using the drawing make the outline of the blade shape on the Seax blank. At this stage do not mark out the tang (it will be done later).

Using a cutting disk or a hacksaw cut out the blade shape. Use the belt sander or a file to finish shaping the blade.

16

Here is the final result.

Mark the position and angle of the tang by laying the handle over the knife with a drill inserted in the handle as a guide. The front top edge of the handle should be lined up with the slope of the seax top edge. It is important that the handle is in alignment with the back edge of the Seax or otherwise the end result will NOT look right. Mark the position and angle of the tang on the blade. By using this approach we are making sure the handle will line up in the correct position and angle to the blade regardless of inaccuracies in the blade or handle.

Cut the tang using a cutter or hacksaw. If you use a cutting disk finish off the cuts using a hacksaw so as NOT to undercut the tang. NOTE: If you undercut the tang you will create a weakness which could cause the blade to break off at the handle in usage.

Hand sand the blade to a smooth finish using wet and dry paper. Start with 80 progressing to 120,180,240,320 and finishing with 400 grade paper. The amount of effort put in here will determine the final finish of the blade.

17

After sanding finish the blade by buffing on the stitched buff and then the cloth polishing disk. The last step is optional as some people prefer a smooth matt finish rather than a highly polished blade,

Shown here is the finished blade along with the handle of the Seax. Remember the blade has not been hardened so it is a good idea to oil the blade and wrap it in cloth to stop it being scratched. Operative words “treat the blade with kid gloves” you do not want to undo all the effort you have put in to this stage.

The last step is to file cutouts into the tang with a triangular file to help hold the blade in place once it is glued into the handle. The edges of the tang should also be rounded off. Remember to wrap the blade in a cloth before clamping it in the vice. This will stop the blade being scratched.

18

Hardening and tempering the Seax blade

HARDENING Remember wear gloves and exercise care around the forge. Place the blade (blade edge up) in the forge and heat it to dull red. Allow to “soak” for five to 10 minutes. It is a good idea to move it around a little to ensure even heating.

When the blade is ready grasp the tang with tongs and plunge into the oil bath (do not submerge the tang). Keep moving it around and up and down until cooled. Shown removing the blade from the oil bath. Place in water to cool to room temperature. NOTE If this process is successful it should be difficult to scratch the blade with a file.

TEMPERING Here is the hardened Seax. Re-polish the blade to remove the scale and place it in a preheated oven (kitchen oven will do) set to 200 C. Remove after 30 minutes and plunge into water to cool. The blade has now been hardened and tempered. While this is an inexact heat treatment it will be hard enough to resist scratches and knocks.

19

Final finishing and polishing the Seax blade

Give the blade a final sand, burnish and polish.

20

Seax assembly

Trial fit the blade to the handle. The heel of the blade should fit flush with the brass front piece of the handle. If it does not grind the heel of the blade until it does.

The final fit should show no air gap between the heel of the blade and the handle.

Using Industrial strength Araldite glue the blade into the handle. Using two pieces of leather and some cords cramp up the Seax to make sure nothing moves. Set aside for at least 24 hours (48 hours for glue to obtain maximum strength) to allow the glue to dry and harden.

The finished Seax. pictured

21

Making the sheath Part C

The final part of the sheath assembly is to place the hangers in the correct position and drill the holes for and install the rivets. The position of the hangers is an individual preference. The placement shown here is a good starting point. Medieval woodcut pictures show the Seax was hung from the belt across the front of the wearer with the Seax point hanging downwards. The angle shown here is approximately correct.

After the rivets have been installed and peened the front end of the sheath’s copper backbone is cut and contoured to the shape of the leather. Tap the edges together with a small hammer and make sure the edge is rounded off so it cannot snag anything. Two leather straps should be made to attach the completed Seax and sheath to the belt at the angle the wearer desires. It is a good idea to spray the copper parts of the sheath with a clear lacquer to stop tarnish.

22

Drawings

Drawing 1

Seax Blade Dimensions

Drawing 2 Handle Dimensions

23

Drawing 3

Sheath Jig Dimensions