Seamless garment knitting
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Transcript of Seamless garment knitting
Shima Seiki’s SDS-ONE system are as follows:
i) The Colour Number List
ii) Optional Line Function List
iii) Pattern Development Assignment
iv) Reference data for colours used for
WholeGarment® (WG) package
• overview and explanation of how these
concepts work together to allow for complex
designs to be programmed and knitted.
Specifically the Section provides an outline of
(1) basic programming procedure, (2)
package programming and (3) WG package
programming.
Digital knit programming involves a series of
procedural steps to translate the envisaged
design into a computer language or code using
the CAD/CAM (Computer Aided Design /
Manufacture) system.
The data is then saved onto a disc (or the
network) and is transferred to the knitting
machine.
For Shima Seiki, the CAD system developed is
known as SDS-ONE. The SDS-ONE system is
a totally integrated knit production system that
allows all phases including planning, design,
evaluation and production
Outline of basic programming procedure
In order to knit a design using a Shima Seiki
industrial knitting machine, it must be
programmed. The steps involved are:
(1) Design preparation, (2) Programming the
design, (3) Design Processing, and (4) Knitting.
1. Design preparation
Design preparation involves the initial planning
and development of the design ideas. This
includes inputting the design into the CAD
system. The knitting CAD system is specific to
the industrial knitting machine. For Shima
Seiki knitting machines the CAD system is SDS-
ONE.
The Knit-paint program is where all technical knit programs are constructed, processed andchecked, through the knit simulation function
• In contrast the Knit-design program is for design work.
Knit-design allows for the design of 2D surface stitch
architectures, yarn and colour selection to be virtually
knitted (simulated), as well as colourways tested. The
design program has a broad file format, allowing for
jpeg, tiff, and bmp files to be imported into the
system. Therefore artwork, for example for a jacquard,
can be scanned into the system, cleaned (through
colour reduction) and prepared.
SDS-ONE knit-design program working page with knit simulation
Within the Knit-design program there is a library of stitch architectures, which can be accessedto create complex fabric structures
2. Programming the design
The design is converted to programming language
and data is inputted and consists of 3 parts;
(1) the structure pattern, (2) the option lines and
(3) the pattern development assignment
(2) The programming is undertaken through Knit-
paint.
• Specifically, the structure pattern or design
area (Figure 3.36, 1) is set, based on the stitch
code colour number list (refer to Stitch Code
Summary). Every stitch type or movement of
a stitch is represented by a colour/number.
The option lines inform the knitting machine how
the design is to be knitted. Each option line
represents a different part of the knitting
process, such as the selection of yarn carriers,
and which sections of the design are to be
repeated. The option lines ultimately provide the
knit program with some flexibility, as the inputted
data in the option lines can be changed at the
processing and at the knitting stage.
The pattern development assignment also
provides support information, similar to the
option lines, about the width and placement
of the knitting on the machine.
3. Design Processing
The design is processed and saved to a formatted disc or
network to ensure the knit program can be read by the
knitting machine. In processing, the knit parameters
are set and the machine type to be used is specified.
The knit parameters are based on the option lines and
can include for example economisers (repeat sizes),
digital stitch and takedown values and the selection
of yarn carriers.
4. Knitting
The knitting machine is set up. Yarn is selected
and threaded through the tension devices to
the yarn carrier. Then the knit program is
selected, read, and knit parameters set and/or
adjustments made via the machine display
panel. The knit program is then knitted.
Package programming
Package is an extension of basic programming. Through
the use of Package software, the programming of a
design is simplified. Package software uses a system of
registered colours, with each colour (and number)
representing a different knit package or combination
of stitches. Package allows for complex design
outcomes, particularly 3D seamless knitting, to be
more readily visualised and communicated in a
simplified 2D format.
WholeGarment® package programming
seamless knitting technology creates a complete
garment with minimal or no cutting and
sewing required, thus eliminating seams.
Seamless knitting is made possible by machine
technology that allows tubular rib transfer.
• When Package Software is applied to Shima
Seiki’s WholeGarment® technology, three
stages for programming need to be
completed before the design can be knitted.
This is similar to standard package
programming and includes (1) the Package
base pattern, (2) the Compress pattern and
(3) the Development pattern (Figure 3.44).
1. Package base patterns
Package base patterns are based on the package
library developed by Shima Seiki. In addition,
for more complex designs, the required
package base patterns may need to be self
constructed by the knit programmer.
2. Compressed pattern
The garment design is translated into programming
language. The compressed pattern consists of three
parts; (i) the base pattern, (ii) the front design area
and (iii) back design area. The base pattern provides
the information on the overall garment shape or
structure. This information includes variations with
front and back, such as necklines or variations required
for a cardigan type garment.
3. Developed pattern
The Compress Pattern is expanded to become the
‘Developed Pattern’. The process of expanding the
pattern combines the three parts of the Compressed
Pattern and develops each package. This process is
semi automatic and is achieved by using the processing
procedure of Package development. Developing the
packages converts the program to the standard Shima
Seiki colour code language, where one colour per
square equals one stitch type.
Once expanded, the Developed Pattern can be
processed. Processing is a semi automatic
procedure carried out through the Knit-paint
software and involves inputting specific
information such as the yarn carriers,
economisers and takedown into the program and
converting the program to a .000 file, so that the
program can be read by the knitting machine.