17

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ON THE PHONE WITH .... ELLEN VON UNWERTH

Ellen von Unwerth is one of the most successful fashion photographers in the industry; her illustrious career spans over 25 years since picking up her camera in 1986. Born in Frankfurt am Main, Germany, she spent her childhood in an orphanage and later with foster parents. When she was 16 years old, she worked as a ring card girl at the infamous Circus Roncalli. According to legend, it was at the circus where a photographer discovered her as a model. After an initial shoot for Germany´s most popular youth magazine “Bravo,” she attracted the attention of model agency Elite, which brought her to Paris and made her a super model. Ellen started with photography rather playfully during a shoot in Kenya. From top celebrities and super models, to the biggest labels and magazines, she has worked with them all. Almost. Join Schön! to find out Ellen’s very own secrets for a relaxed atmosphere on set and who in the world of the bold and the beautiful are still missing from her list.

In your photography you appreciate the magic of the moment. What’s your personal status quo right now – in this moment, are you ready?

!"#$%&'&()*$+&$#,"&+-&).+"//01+%&2"3#04"&'&#(&#3+0#556&-.&#&4$--+&7)+$&8#+6&9"//6%&4$"&)4&#3+0#556&4011-4":&+-&2"&$"/"%&20+&4$"&)4&4+)55&.-+&$"/";

You are always described as a funny person who laughs a lot. Does ‘fun’ come naturally to you, or is it something you sometimes have to fight for?

'&:-.<+&7#.+&+-&4#6&=>8%&'&#(&?0..6%@&20+&'&5-,"&+-&$#,"&#&*--:&+)("%&'&5-,"&+-&5#0*$%&'&5)A"&+-&3/#3A&B-A"4;&CD#0*$4;E&F$#+<4&7$#+&'&5)A"%&4-%&'&*0"44&'&#(&?0..6;&CD#0*$4;E&G0+%&6-0&A.-7%&'&$#,"&#&:)??"/".+&4):"%&5)A"&","/62-:6&"54";&'&$#,"&(6&:#/A&4):"H&'&$#,"&(6&014&#.:&:-7.4;&'&#(&#54-&/-(#.+)3%&.-+&B04+&?0..6;&'&#(&.-+&#&35-7.;

How would you describe your darker side? Is it something you like to keep for yourself?

'+&:"1".:4&-.&(6&(--:&#.:&7$#+&$#11".4&).&(6&5)?";&'.&(6&1)3+0/"4%&+$"/"&)4&#&5-+&-?&$0(-0/%&20+&'&#54-&5)A"&+-&"I15-/"&+$"&:#/A&4):"&-?&+$).*4;&J04+&5)A"&","/62-:6&"54";&

You have blurred the line between fashion and fetish photography, and you have been and are being celebrated for it. Have you, on the other hand, ever been accused of taking the concept of overt sexuality and sadomasochism a step too far?

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

But has there ever been a case where someone accused you?

N-%&.-+&+$#+&'&A.-7&-?;&O#62"&1"-15"&7/)+"&)+&-.&+$"&).+"/."+%&20+&6-0&A.-7%&1"-15"&7/)+"&4-&(03$&4+0??;&'&$#,"&.","/&/"#:&)+;&'&:-&.-+&/"#:&7$#+&1"-15"&4#6%&)+&)4&.-+&*--:&?-/&-."<4&41)/)+;

We all know your images of women. What kind of ‘image of women’ shaped you?

O6& :/"#(&7-(#.& )4&O#/)56.&O-./-";& P-/&("%& 4$"& )4& 5)A"& +$"& 1"/?"3+&7-(#.L&4"I6&#.:&4".40#5%&7)+$&#&5)++5"&2)+&-?&.#Q,"+6&#.:&4+)55&$#4&+$"&3$)5:&).4):"&-?&$"/;&F$#+<4&7$#+&'&5)A"%&4+/-.*&#.:&.-+&#?/#):&-?&2").*&4"I6%&20+&#&5)++5"&2)+&.#Q,";&N-+&4-&(03$&).R6-0/R?#3"&#.:&,05*#/H&+$#+<4&(6&?#,-0/)+"&A).:&-?&7-(#.;&F$".%&'&#54-&5-,"&+$"&S"5(0+RN"7+-.&7-(#.;

You mentioned inspirational icons, but was there an ‘image of women’ in your past that shaped you?&N-+&).&(6&3$)5:$--:H&'&7#4&.-+&7)+$&#.62-:6;&'&+$).A&)+&3#("&5#+"/%&7$".&'&4+#/+":&+-&2"&).&?#4$)-.&#.:&'&4+#/+":&+-&2"&#&1$-+-*/#1$"/%&+$".&)+&2"3#("&(-/"&)(1-/+#.+%&20+&.-+&/"#556&2"?-/"&+$#+;

What’s your opinion about the portraiture of age in fashion photography?&

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

Do you observe a shift in the portraiture of age in fashion photography, is there something happening right now?

N-+&/"#556;&'+<4&(-/"&1$-+-*/#1$).*&-5:"/&1"-15"&#.:&/"+-03$).*&+$"(%&4-&+$"6&5--A&6-0.*&V&+$#+<4&+$"&A).:&-?&4$)?+&'&#(&?""5).*;&

Your models emphasise your humorous attitude and atmosphere on set. What are stress-factors for you that you take care to avoid in order to maintain that?

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

You have worked with the most famous figures in the fashion and music industries, is there anyone left you dream of working with?

F$"/"&#/"&#57#64&."7&1"-15";&N-7&+$"/"<4&K((#&Z+-."%&'&B04+&4#7&#&(-,)"&7)+$&$"/&#.:&'&+$).A&4$"&)4&,"/6&).+"/"4+).*;&P0..)56&".-0*$&'&.","/&7-/A":&7)+$&[#("/-.&X)#\;&'&+$).A&7"&3-05:&2"&#&/"#556&*--:&+"#(%&20+&7"&.","/&$#:&+$"&3$#.3"&+-&7-/A&+-*"+$"/;&Z$"<4&?0.%&20+&-0/&1#+$4&$#,"&.","/&3/-44":;&'<:&5-,"&+-&7-/A&7)+$&W.*"5).#&J-5)"H&'&$#,".<+&4$-+&$"/&6"+&")+$"/;&F$"/"&#/"&4+)55&1"-15"&-0+&+$"/"&+$#+&'&#(&"I3)+":&#2-0+&4$--+).*H&5-+4&-?&."7&4).*"/4;&

You have no formal training in photography; to what extent has this helped or hindered you through your career?

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

One of your first commissions for GUESS starred a 17-year-old Claudia Schiffer and is now described as the turning point in your career. Was this really your turning point?

S#(."++&$#:&3#55":&("&+-&*),"&("&$"/&3#(1#)*.%&4-&'&7#4&#5/"#:6&401"/&503A6&2"3#04"&'&$#:&$#:&(6&3#("/#&?-/&-.56&+7-&(-.+$4;&'&*0"44&4$"&5)A":&+$#+&+$"/"&7#4&4-("+$).*&."7&-/&:)??"/".+&).&(6&1)3+0/"4;&W.:&+$".%&7$".&9#05&O#/3)#.-&?/-(&]^KZZ&7#.+":&+-&4$--+&#&3#(1#)*.%&$"&#54-&5)A":&+$"&41-.+#."-04&#.:&#:,".+0/-04&?""5;&M"&2--A":&[5#0:)#&Z3$)??"/&#.:&)+&7#4&A).:&-?&#&40/1/)4"&+$#+&)+&2"3#("&403$&#&4033"44;&9"-15"&/"41-.:":&4-&(03$&+-&)+;&'+&7#4&,"/6&*--:&?-/&]^KZZ%&)+&7#4&,"/6&*--:&?-/&[5#0:)#&#.:&)+&7#4&,"/6&*--:&?-/&("&+--;&'+&*#,"&04&#55&#&.#(";&'+&7#4&.)3"H&)+&7#4&40/1/)4).*;&'&("#.%&'&7#4&40/1/)4":;&CD#0*$4;E&'&:-.<+&A.-7&)?&6-0&$#,"&4"".&)+%&'&B04+&4$-+&[5#0:)#&#*#).&?-/&]^KZZ<4&_`+$&#..),"/4#/6;&'+<4&#55&-,"/&+$"&).+"/."+H&)+&B04+&3#("&-0+&+-:#6;

How was it shooting her again?

'&5-,"&[5#0:)#;&M"&$#,".<+&7-/A":&+-*"+$"/&,"/6&(03$&-,"/&+$"&6"#/4&20+&

[5#0:)#&#.:&'&#/"&#&,"/6&*--:&3-(2).#+)-.;&Z$"&)4&B04+&403$&#&*--:&(-:"5H&4$"&)4&.#+0/#5&).&?/-.+&-?&+$"&3#("/#%&4$"&)4&.-+&1-4).*;&'&5-,"&3#1+0/).*&1"-15"%&'&:-.<+&5)A"&7$".&1"-15"&1-4";&[5#0:)#&)4&#(#\).*%&$-7&4$"&B04+&(-,"4&#.:&15#64H&4$"&)4&4-&30+"&#.:&4-&4"I6;&M"&7-/A&+-*"+$"/&,"/6&7"55H&+$"/"&#/"&.-+&(#.6&(-:"54&5)A"&+$)4;&'+&7#4&#&2)*&15"#40/"&#.:&/"#556&*/"#+&+-&7-/A&7)+$&$"/&#*#).;

What is your advice for all aspiring fashion photographers out there who are working towards their turning point right now in these times?

F-&/"#3$&+$"&+0/.).*&1-).+&)4&$#/:&7-/A;&'&7-/A":&$#/:%&20+&'&#(&4-&1#44)-.#+"&#2-0+&7$#+&'&:-&+$#+&)+&:-"4.<+&/"#556&?""5&5)A"&7-/AH&)+<4&#&15"#40/";&P)/4+&-?&#55&6-0&$#,"&+-&2"&1#44)-.#+";&!-0&:-.<+&A.-7&7$#+&3#+3$"4&1"-15"%&#.:&6-0&3#..-+&B04+&2"&5)A"&='&7#.+&+-&2"&?#(-04@;&!-0&$#,"&+-&+/6&-0+&+$).*4&#.:&:-&7$#+&6-0&2"5)","&).;&W.:&+$".&(#62"&)+&$#11".4&-/&)+&:-"4.<+H&+$"/"<4&.-+&/"#556&#&/"3)1"&?-/&)+;

Apart from commissioned advertising, promotions and fashion editorials for the top publications, you also exhibit your work. Between 1994 and 2010 you have published seven photobooks: Snaps, Couples, Wicked, Revenge, Omahyra & Boyd, Fräulein and Die Spieler. Which one is your favourite presentation form for your photography and why?

9$-+-2--A4&#/"&*/"#+%&2"3#04"&+$"6&5#4+&#.:&+$"6&+-03$&:)??"/".+&1"-15"%&.-+&-.56&+$"&?#4$)-.&7-/5:;&P#4$)-.&(#*#\)."4&#/"&(-/"&?-/&#&/"4+/)3+":&3/-7:&-?&1"-15";&'+<4&?0.&+-&7-/A&?-/&?#4$)-.&(#*#\)."4%&+$#+<4&7$#+&A""14&1$-+-*/#1$6&*-).*;&G0+&#&2--A&)4&4-("+$).*&41"3)#5%&)+<4&(-/"&/"7#/:).*&#.:&)+&4+#64&?-/","/;&P#4$)-.&(#*#\)."4&".:&01&).&+$"&*#/2#*"&#+&+$"&".:&-?&+$"&7""A;&'&5-,"&"I$)2)+)-.4&+--%&7$".&+$"&1"-15"&3-("%&)+<4&B04+&.)3"&+-&4""&

'&7-/A%&'&:-.<+&/"#556&+$).A&#2-0+&)+H&'&B04+&:-&(6&+$).*;&

So you don’t have a particular form you prefer?

!"#$%&)+<4&+$"&7$-5"&3)/304%&)+<4&*/"#+%&#55&-?&)+;&'&#(&,"/6&503A6&+-&2"&).&+$"&1-4)+)-.&+$#+&'&3#.&:-&+$)4;&'&$#,"&?-0/&"I$)2)+)-.4&+$)4&6"#/&#.:&#.-+$"/&2--A&1/-B"3+;&W&5-+&-?&7-/A%&#&5-+&-?&?0.&#.:&)+&A""14&("&*-).*&#.:&7-/A).*;

Talking about the circus; you started your career by joining the circus; in what sense is the fashion industry, as a whole, one big global circus?

P#4$)-.&)4&#&,"/6&41"3)#5&1#/+&-?&7$#+<4&*-).*&-.;&F-&3/"#+"&+$"4"&#(#\).*&35-+$"4%&#.:&+$"&$#)/%&+$"&(#A"R01&#.:&+$"&(-:"54%&#55&+$"&3"5"2/)+)"4&a&'+<4&B04+&,"/6&3-5-0/?05&#.:&?055&-?&?#.+#46;&'&7-/A&7)+$&4-&(#.6&*/"#+&1"-15"%&).&#&7#6%&)+&/"#556&)4&#&3)/304%&)?&6-0&7#.+;&9"-15"&*"+&401"/&"I3)+":&#2-0+&B04+&

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Do you think you could make any woman look sexy, regardless of her size or how she looks?

"6"4;&M-(".&5)A"&+$)4&#/"&"#4)"/&?-/&("&+-&3-.."3+&7)+$&+$"(;&'&5-,"&+$"4"&A).:4&-?&*)/54;&Z-("&7-(".&#/"&B04+&.-+&5)A"&+$#+&#.:&+$"6&:-.<+&7#.+&+-&2"&5)A"&+$#+;&G0+&'&B04+&1$-+-*/#1$":&#&7-(#.&7$-&7#4&+7-&("+"/4&b`&3(H&4$"&7#4&#&*)#.+%&#&,"/6&+#55&7-(#.;&Z$"&10+&-.&#&O#/)56.&O-./-"R7)*%&4-&4$"&5--A":&5)A"&#&*)#.+&O#/)56.&O-./-";&Z$"&5--A":&#(#\).*%&#.:&4"I6;&F$#+<4&4-("+$).*&6-0&7-05:.<+&"I1"3+&R&)+&7#4&*/"#+Y

!""#$%&'$%($)#*+,%,-.%/##$%0$+#*10#)#2%/3%4-.50-%6#0.

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ

American fashion designer Narciso Rodriguez has been on the fashion radar since the early 1980s and has continued to climb up the ladder ever since. In 1997, one year after designing Carolyn Bessette Kennedy’s wedding dress, he launched the signature collection of his own label.

Kate Winslet, Salma Hayek, Claire Danes, Sarah Jessica Parker and Rachel Weisz are just some of the big stars that adore Rodriguez’s puristic creations. He has worked with some of the biggest names in fashion, including Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Tse and Cerruti Paris, and he has never given up on pursuing his career, no matter what obstacles crossed his path. Schön! took the opportunity to ask the prolific designer a few questions about his influences, style and future plans.

Your parents were against your ambition to work in fashion, but you kept going. What is it that gave you this strong determination?

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

With your minimalist style, your clean forms and mainly monochrome and grey aesthetics, you are associated with the sportswear tradition. What is your personal definition of "sportswear" as a term, and how can it be seen in your work?

A/1-.*(&$-" 0*" <$*06$'')" '1,06$'" +-&**02,="0.?*" 3726.012$'8" !.?*" 7*&37'" 31-" $''" $*/&6.*" 13" $"(14$2?*" '03&" <&6$7*&" (14&2" $'($)*" ($2." .1"3&&'",11+"$2+"'115",11+"(#$.&%&-".#&)?-&"+102,8"!" '1%&"(1-502,"(0.#"$"*/1-.*(&$-"#$2+"&%&2" 03"!?4" +&*0,202," &%&202,(&$-" <&6$7*&" 0." $'($)*"3&&'*"41+&-2"$2+" .#&-&?*"$2" &331-.'&**2&**"$2+"&$*&".1".#&"&%&202,(&$-".#$."(14$2"$//-&60$.&8

How would you describe the spirit of your label?

>#&"*/0-0."13"4)"'$<&'"0*"6'&$2:"*&2*7$':"41+&-2"$2+"3&40202&8"!"$'($)*"'05&".1"*$)".#&"#17*&"13"B$-60*1"C1+-0,7&D"*.$2+*"31-".#&",-&$."+-&**"1-"3-$,-$26&"$"(14$2"-&'0&*"12".1+$):" .#$."*#&?''"

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Some of the most beautiful women of our time are wearing your designs. Is there one amongst them who you feel represents the spirit of your label in its essence?

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When you talk about the people you have worked with in the past, you like to mention Zack Carr, designer and creative director at Calvin Klein, who died from cancer in 2000. Looking back, what were the most important things you learned from him?

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Your passion for architecture, which is reflected in your design, originates from your admiration for German architect Mies van der Rohe. What fascinates you about him and how do you transpose this fascination into your own work?

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Supporting Barack Obama, you are a person who is outspoken in regards of your political view. What does political participation mean to you?

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You love photography, fine art and film and also take opportunities to work in those fields. Are you planning something right now that we might look forward to?

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UVU-Schon-BackCover.indd 1 23/03/2012 14:54