Saree World

8/2/2019 Saree World

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SAREE WORLD

The four South Indian states, namely Kerala, Andhra

Pradesh, Karnataka and Tamil Nadu are famous for

many reasons. Temples and thesarees of south

Indiatop this list. Although there are minor variations

in the costumes and ways of wearing, the traditional

dresses of the four states of South India do not vary

too much. In fact,Indian sareescan be called the

common traditional dress of all women in South

India with variations in the style of weaving and draping.

Traditional Dress of Kerala

The basic dress of Kreala is the 'Mundum neriyathum'or 'mundu and

neriathu'. It is worn by both, men and women of Kerala. The mundum

neryathum consists of two pieces of cloth- mundu which is the cloth draped on

the lower part of the body and neriyathu which is worn over ablouse. Mundu

is a hand woven cotton cloth which is very comfortable in the summers. It is of

white or cream color with a colored strip known as 'kara' meaning border.

Traditionally, the Neriyathum is tucked inside the blouse. Sometimes, it is

worn over the left shoulder just like thesarees of north Indiaare worn.

Mundum neriyathum is worn by women from all

communities of Kerala. However, the style of its

wearing is different among the Christian women.

They fold the mundu in multiple folds that resembles
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the shape of a fan. This portion is hung at the back. The mundum neryathum

for festive occasion has golden colored borders or a broad zari border known

as Kasavu, lending the costume another name- the"Kasavu Saree".

Nowadays, thesefestival sareesof South India also come with borders of

copper coated or artificial color (instead of golden color) with peacock or

temple designs. The blouse worn by the women of Kerala differs according to

the age and marital status. Young unmarried girls traditionally wear green

blouse while married women wear red blouses. With time, the mundum

neriyathum has been replaced by the 'Set-sari', which is a single strip of cloth

and is famously known as the 'Kerala saree'.

Traditional Dress of Andhra Pradesh

Andhra Pradesh is a representation of true soul of India as it is the home of

diverse cultures of India. This South Indian state is most famous for its

richhandloom sareesbut women here can be seen in other dresses too.

While the Hindu women wear different types of sarees, Muslim women can be

spotted in burkha or the hijab. The prevalence of IT sector in Hyderabad have

made the western womens wear like jeans,skirts and shirts, andladies

kurtisalso popular in the state. However, the traditional dress of Andhra

Pradesh still is the ethnic handloom sarees that are made at different places

and are mostly famous by the names of these places.

Thesilk sareesmade in Dharmavaram of Andhra

Pradesh are the coveted sarees for ceremonies and

festivals. The Dharmavaram sarees have plain

borders without much contrast. However, the

brocaded gold patterns or butta designs on the
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borders and the exclusively designed pallus are the features that make the

Dharmavaram silk sarees so special for Andhra women. Yet another

handloom saree- theGadwal sareesare manufactured in Gadwal region of

Andhra Pradesh. These sarees are famous world over for their cotton body

with pure silk borders and pallu. The Ikkat saris were first woven in the

Nalgonda district of Andhra Pradesh. However, now they are famous by the

name ofPochampally sareesdue to their vast scale production in the

Pochampally region of Andhra Pradesh. These sarees are also made in

Puttapaka, and Chautuppal villages of Andhra Pradesh. The unique feature of

Ikkat saris lie in the weaving -pattern wherein the yarn is arbitrarily dyed in

zigzag or geometric structures. The Mangalgir saris, which are finecotton

sarees, are made in the Mangalgiri region of Andhra Pradesh.

The Venkatagiri saris are hand woven with locally made jalas. They are fine

examples of the jacquard weave. The body of the Venkatagiri sari is in sheer

cotton, embellished with gold motifs like dots, coins, leaves, parrots, or simple

geometric designs.

Apart from sarees, there are some tribal costumes too in Andhra Pradesh.

The women of the tribe Lambadi wear attractive, colorful and heavy wide skirt

like garments famous asLambadi dress. Their bright shaded red, orange and

blue attire have lots of mirrors and beads studded on them. These women

carry a scarf which they throw over the shoulders and on the head. An

embroidered choli with long sleeves is worn by them to cover their upper

body. This choli is tied at the back with the help of bands.
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Traditional Dress of Karnataka

Karnataka, particularly Bangalore and Mysore, is the

silk hub of India and as such Karnataka silk sarees

are its traditional costume. However, the different

drapes of sarees make these sarees unique. The

Coorgi style of draping a saree in Karnataka

involves tying the pleats in the rear instead of the

front and a small portion of the pallu is placed over

the shoulder.Mysore silk sareesare made with

lustrous zari and rich silk. The extraordinary sheen of the fabric and the purity

of the zari make these saree an elegant women dress. The Kornadu

saris are a mix of cotton and silk. TheKonrad sareesare woven with a blue

cotton yarn and silk yarn in several colors other than blue. The motifs at

border are varied and the body of the sari has checked or striped patterns.

They are mostly used as dailycasual wear sarees. The handloom Irkal

saris have the beautiful Kasuti embroidery on them. Kasuti embroidery is a

special craft practiced mainly in Uttara Kanara district or North Kanara district

of Karnataka. The motifs on Irkal saris include architectural designs, cradle,

elephant, squirrel among others. The Mysore crepe silk sarees are used as

office wear sarees due to their light-weight, and easy to care nature.

Traditional Dress of Tamil Nadu

The basic and the most traditional women dress of

Tamil nadu is the 'Pavada Davani' famous by the

name of half saree. It is a three piece clothing which

includes a long lower garment resembling

apetticoator along skirt; a choli blouse; and a long
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'dupatta' like strip of cloth which is about as long as a half saree. It is usually

worn by the village girls in Tamil Nadu. However, the Kanchipuram or

theKanjivaram sareesare the most famous traditional costume of Tamil

Nadu. The designs on the body of the sari are woven with gold thread and the

saree have varied motifs on it, ranging from figures to temples, along the

border. The rich silk fabric, elaborate weaving designs and contrasting borders

have made kanjivaram sarees popular not only in Tamil Nadu and India but all

over the world.

Many traditional Indian sarees of Tamil Nadu, apart from the famous

kanjivaram sarees, constitute the traditional costume of Tamil Nadu.

The Kodalikareppur or Karpur saris made in the village of Kolli Karpur is a

mixture of hand painting, block printing and brocade weaving. The Kora

cotton saris, woven widely in Coimbatore district, have a self-designed

jacquard pattern all over. Kurainadu and Kodambakkam saris are made by

blending cotton and silk with beautiful geometric and floral designs.

The Poornakumbham cotton saris are the fine cotton textured saris woven

with rudraksha motifs and highlighted with pearls and cross lines.

The Chungadi sarees of Madurai are basically made with the technique of tie

and dye. Bright colors like red, purple, blue and black are used in these srees

which have unique kolam (geometric) or rangoli patterns with borders in

contrast colors. TheTribhuvanam silk saris are made by highly skilled

weavers and have floral and animal designs on them.
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