San Francisco travel review

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“I like to think of Sur la Terre as a luxury vessel. One that transports you

across a diamond-studded sea, to a place where your aspirations and lifestyle

dreams are laid out before you.”

Never more so, in fact, than in this, our first issue of the new year, because it is always around this time that our focus turns to two of the highlights of the regional luxury calendar. The Doha Jewellery & Watches Exhibition is just weeks away, while the 20th instalment of the Dubai International Boat Show hoves into view just over a horizon sparkling with haute joaillerie.

Therefore, as we have done before, we offer a blend of features and articles that reflect both of these important events, as well as a guide to our selection of must-see exhibitors at each of them.

We have an exclusive interview with Rolex Brand Ambassador and global tennis champion, Roger Federer, as well as some words of wisdom from the CEO of Tag Heuer, Jean Christoph-Babin. Meanwhile, Megan Masterson investigates the allure and timelessness of the Cartier Tank Watch and Origins takes you behind the scenes and into the world of the master craftsmen at Chopard.

In Out Of The Box, we preview the 20th anniversary of the Dubai International Boat Show, as well as the future of ocean-going travel aboard the MS Tûranor PlanetSolar, the world’s first fully solar-powered boat to circumnavigate the globe.

Dig deeper and you will find all of our usual gems, from Fashion, Beauty, Accessories and Artopia, where Danny Issa hangs out with legendary jazz musician Wynton Marsalis in Oman and Steve Paugh previews the upcoming Takashi Murakami exhibition in his new shoes from Santoni. Kevin Hackett is once again In Motion, this time in the crown jewel of Lamborghini’s line up, the new V12 Aventador, while Siobhan Corley opens up the Golden Gate to sparkling San Francisco in Horizons.

As the tide laps against the shore of a new year, we hope that you will climb aboard the good ship Sur la Terre for her maiden voyage of 2012, as we set sail once again for the land of plenty, across vast, glistening oceans of opulence.

James McCarthyREGIONAL MANAGING EDITOR

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H O R I ZO N S

THE GOLDENbehind

gate“If you’re going to San Francisco, be sure to wear some flowers in your hair’, or so says Scott McKenzie in his classic song that provides the backdrop to a city enveloped in a love revolution. Of course, much has changed since the hippie, free-loving decade of the 60s, but there is something about this wonderful and refreshingly unique city that time and again brings me back to this quote.

While wearing a flower in your hair isn’t a prerequisite to fitting in these days (unless perhaps you’re partial to joining in a sing song on Hippie Hill in the Golden Gate Park), San Francisco as a whole has evolved as rapidly as a flower sprouts and blossoms through the seasons. In a city where things change as quickly as the chilly fog that can descend over the bay on a warm summer’s day, it’s not surprising to find a people that are open, welcoming and as eager to embrace unconventionality as to jump on board the next trend. Gone are the flowers, but in its place are many faces, places and an upbeat spirit that has been moulded by diversity. It makes for an enchanting city break. Having lived here for 9 months, I’ve grown to love every inch of this quirky melting pot for the avant-garde where each day brings a new discovery. Let me take you on a stroll off the well-beaten tourist track.

Sunrise over one of the most iconic sight s and greatest engineering. . feat s in the world , the Golden Gate Bridge. .

-With its fantastic and fascinating history of

eccentrics and earthquakes, it’s little wonder that San Francisco may just be the most bohemian

city in America. It’s easily also one of the most beautiful, with 43 hills offering views of the

bay and the famous Golden Gate Bridge. Siobhán Corley-Richards discovers the gems that make

this the West Coast’s true must-visit city.-


A short taxi ride downtown from La Folie will bring you to the hidden glamour of the Clift Hotel. Opulently designed by Phillippe Starck, The Clift tells the story of San Francisco’s diverse and ever-changing character through exceptional interior design. It’s a hotel dripping with elegance, seasoned with an uber-cool ambience, making the Clift the residence of choice for visiting celebrities and glitterati. With secrecy assured and the added convenience of being home to one of the world’s top 10 bars, the Redwood Room, it’s perfectly designed to fulfil every whim.

As sumptuously designed as the Redwood Room is with all the glamour of the post-Prohibition era, San Francisco doesn’t do conventional “exclusive members bars” the way we know them in the Middle East and Europe. There’s a distinct air of unpretentiousness here and gaining access to some of the best bars in town is all about having the right vibe and attitude. I spoke to Phil, the owner of the Otis Bar about this distinct difference between San Francisco and other cosmopolitan cities. Otis Bar is a funky little cocktail lounge that does the best mojito in town and hosts some of the most talked about DJs. Lady Gaga even played her first gig in San Francisco in this tucked away little gem of a bar. Phil, who hails from LA, first opened Otis as a private members club, but, as he said, “It doesn’t work here; people just want to have fun and party with some great people without the stuffiness of being part of a club”. Instead they assess each person at the door to make sure they let in the right kind of people, dressed for the occasion in whatever way they see fit. It makes for an eclectic, more interesting mix of clientele and a great night where, as Phil puts it, “It’s so much more refreshing than in LA where everyone looks the same.”

On at least one of your days here, rise with the birds, especially if it’s a Saturday morning, and head to the Ferry Building on the Embarcadero. Renovated into a fine food emporium after the 1989 earthquake, the Ferry Building hosts the biggest farmer’s market in the city. Grab breakfast at one of the myriad stalls, or choose from any number of ethnic, local and regional food stalls and stock up on fresh fruit to snack on throughout the day.

In many ways, the farmer’s market characterises the food trend that is currently sweeping California: the many new artisan eateries and stores that source local, organic, fresh foods to create truly unique and tasty culinary offerings. Staying on the food theme, I journey to the neighbourhood of Hayes Valley to explore this trend further on a Gourmet Food Tour. Hayes Valley was once a run-down neighbourhood, but since 2005 it has been transformed into one of the city’s most fashionable districts. Andrea Nadal, company founder, did well in selecting Hayes Valley for her gourmet tour, with its eclectic mix of food stores, cultures and innovative concepts vying for business, you will be spoilt for choice. Our tour guide Kate gave me a little background to the home grown, locally sourced, organic idea. Alice Walters, the godmother of organic food is from Berkeley, a city across the bay from San Francisco. During the time of free speech in the 70s, she started a movement to promote the use of organic food and her ideals have lingered, taken seed and blossomed into a steadfast culinary way of life.

Our first stop not only demonstrates this concept but also showcases an innovative method of food production that involves none of the IT prowess of nearby Silicon Valley. The brainchild of Robyn Sue Goldman, who started off with one mobile ice cream machine, Smitten is a store that serves delicious, flavoursome ice cream out of a wacky and wonderfully renovated shipping container. Its secret is in the freshly sourced local ingredients that are magically transformed by liquid nitrogen, which makes every sumptuous scoop in a mere 60 seconds.

Other stops on this informative and tastebud-tantalising tour include a fromagerie, with its own cold room of cheeses from all over the world, Fritjz, a delightful Belgian café with the best chips and accompanying sauces this side of the pond, and charming, dainty homemade chocolatiers and sweet shops.

“San Francisco is relaxed, it’s open to try new things and so much less cutthroat than New York,” remarked Chef Roland of La Folie, when commenting on his other choice of destination for his Michelin-starred restaurant. It’s a common theme here; San Franciscans are content (not to be confused with smug) with their lot. While its big and brash neighbour LA and east coast counterpart New York are regularly seen on our movie screens and are never far from the news, San Francisco has sat quietly on the sidelines and created a home and a destination of choice for many who have spurned the shiny, bright lights of its metropolitan neighbours. “San Francisco is entrepreneurial, but more friendly and less stressful than New York. It’s a city with a soul; Los Angeles feels fake somehow, whereas San Francisco is honest, welcoming and open to all characters and personalities” – these are just a few of the comments I’ve heard being thrown about by loyal San Franciscans. But back to Chef Roland, who very kindly invited my husband and me to dine at his divine, contemporary French restaurant.

Located on Russian Hill, home to the infamous Lombard Street, literally the “crookedest” street in San Francisco, La Folie nestles snugly into this quiet, residential neighbourhood. Russian Hill was one of the first districts to be formed as a result of the Gold Rush era in the 1850s, and if gold is what you are after, dining at La Folie comes extremely close! It’s clear within seconds of meeting him that Chef Roland is extremely passionate about food in a way that only the French can express. Each of his dishes, which are created using simple, classic ingredients with a playful and contemporary twist, is a masterpiece in culinary expertise. Every day of his studies in Provence, his time spent in Chicago and Dallas, and his 24 years running La Folie in San Francisco, can be tasted in each dish. With today’s culinary trends going all scientific and molecular, it’s refreshing to see that Chef Roland’s simple, honest and creative fare is still going down a storm.

Starting with the Sautéed Burgundy Snails in Pernod Lemon Butter, Parsley and Bone Marrow Gratin, I knew I was in for an unforgettable dining experience. No awkward plucking of snails out of their pesky shells. These beauties were already shell-less, stuffed inside the bone and submerged in a delicate mote of mouth-watering Pernod and Lemon Butter; a strange but wonderful taste sensation. For my main, I just had to try Chef Roland’s signature dish; Rôti of Quail and Squab, stuffed with Mushrooms and wrapped in Crispy Potato Strings. Before I enjoy this piece of art, I need to take a moment to mention its complexity. The cylinder of potato strings is delicately fabricated and then stuffed with the tender, juicy morsels from these tiny, yet delicious fowl. It’s a process that epitomises Chef Roland’s passion and dedication, plus it tastes phenomenal. I finished with the richest, creamiest chocolate mousse. My non-sweet-toothed husband managed to finish his succulent Carrot Cake and Ginger Crème Brulée, despite lapping up the generous mise en bouche, which Chef Roland’s attentive and knowledgeable staff continued to tantalise us with between courses.

Foodie fix

Everyday people

Stop off for clam chowder at world-famous Fisherman’s Wharf. .

The Clif t hotel . .



Environmentally-conscious locals take to the street s on bicycles . .

Support the Giant s baseball team at AT&T Park . .


While eating your way around the city and getting swept up in a smorgasbord of tasty delights, don’t forget to check out some of the more traditional sights. There is so much to see here, each telling a story about San Francisco’s changing face over the decades. Here are my top picks of the must-sees:

Alcatraz Island: One of the most intriguing sites I have ever visited in any city and witness to many of the most remarkable events in San Francisco’s history, including military invasions, native Indian occupation and the infamous federal prison. At first glance, it’s hard to imagine how Alcatraz managed to keep some of the most notorious criminals in America, such as Al Capone and the Birdman, imprisoned. This prominent fortress is just 1.5 miles from shore, but it’s also surrounded by treacherous, freezing cold waters, making it virtually escape-proof. As past prisoners and wardens talk you through an audio tour as you wander the corridors, you will be transported back to those dark, mysterious times. It’s a haunting and moving experience and one not to be missed.

Haight/Ashbury: The original centre of the love and peace revolution of the 60s and 70s, the Haight/Ashbury district flaunts many remnants of these quirky years. Amoeba Music is well worth the visit. The largest independent stockist of music in the world, its almost possible to feel the beat of the revolution this record store helped create. It easily knocks the socks off the online competition.

Coit Tower: This distinctive tower atop Telegraph Hill has stunning views of this hilly cityscape. Commissioned by the wealthy, eccentric local Lillian Hitchcock Coit in 1933, not only does the Coit Tower offer stunning views across the city, Fisherman’s Wharf, east to the infamous Golden Gate Bridge and west to the Bay Bridge, it showcases the work of one of the first art projects in the city through a series of distinctive murals.

Speaking of views, for a spectacular sunset on a clear day, make your way to Top of the Mark in the Hotel Intercontinental Mark Hopkins. A classic cocktail hotspot that’s steeped in history, Top of The Mark regularly features some of San Francisco’s legendary jazz bands, a musical genre for which San Francisco is famous for. With 360 degree views, it’s the perfect backdrop to any San Francisco experience. Stay for sumptuous brunch, light lunch or an early evening cocktail, and take in the view. A famous destination for the military throughout the last century, it’s maintained the essence of a bygone era and provides the perfect backdrop to toast the end of your stay in this intriguing city.

I can’t help but wonder about San Francisco and its undefeated sense of optimism and tolerance, and how it has survived its tumultuous years. The last century saw two life-shattering earthquakes and the fallout from the dot.com boom that left many of the city’s entrepreneurs out in the cold. Despite these difficult times, it’s as if San Francisco remembers where it came from; the booming Gold Rush era. San Francisco is about enjoying the good times and quickly reinventing and bettering itself, not only riding but welcoming each change. There’s a freedom here that other cities in the US don’t have, it’s a place where anything goes and everyone is accepted. It’s no wonder that visitors quickly fall in love with the city and can’t help admit that this is the way life should be. San Francisco offers as much possibility as it did when Scott McKenzie first wrote those words, plus a whole lot more. On the way home from town the other day, an old lady stopped me and handed me a flower from her freshly picked bouquet. I smiled to myself as I slipped it behind my ear….it seems there are some things that never change.

!"#$#%&'%()##*Clift Hotel495 Geary Street, San Francisco, CA 94102www.clifthotel.com

Hotel Intercontinental Mark HopkinsOne Nob Hill, San Francisco, CA 94108http://www.intercontinentalmarkhopkins.com/

!"#$#%&'%#+&,La Folie2316 Polk Street, San Francisco, CA 94109www.lafolie.com

Top of the MarkOne Nob Hill, San Francisco, CA 94108http://www.intercontinentalmarkhopkins.com/top_of_the_mark/

!"#$#%&'%*)+-Otis Lounge25 Maiden Lane, San Franciscohttp://www.otissf.com/

The Redwood Room 495 Geary Street, San Francisco, CA 94102http://www.clifthotel.com/en-us/#/explore/?id=/clift-san-francisco-redwood-room/

Go/See/Do

Deserted prison cells at the infamous Alcatraz Is land.

The Columbus statue greet s visitors at the base of the dist inctive Coit Tower. .

Impossibly crooked Lombard Street on Russian Hil l . .

A must-visit district for anyone fascinated by the city’s hippie past . .

PUBLICATIONS DIRECTORMohamed Jaidah

[email protected]

- EDITORIAL -REGIONAL MANAGING EDITOR

James [email protected]

SENIOR EDITORSteve Paugh

[email protected]

FASHION & STYLESophie Jones-Cooper

[email protected]

COPY EDITORMegan Masterson

CONTRIBUTORSSiobhán Corley-Richards

Kevin HackettGaëlle Hennet

Danny Issa

- ART & DESIGN -CREATIVE DIRECTORRoula Zinati Ayoub

ART DIRECTIONRena Chehayber

DESIGNERSTeja Jaganjac

FINALISERMichael Logaring

PHOTOGRAPHYHerbert Villadelrey

Johan Madarasz

- SALES & MARKETING -REGIONAL SALES DIRECTOR

Julia [email protected]

AREA MANAGER BAHRAIN-QATARChirine Halabi

[email protected]

- PRINTING & DISTRIBUTION -DISTRIBUTION MANAGER

Azqa [email protected]

LOGISTICSDan Louis Javier

- PRINTER -RAIDY PRINTING GROUP, DUBAI

www.raidy.com

- PUBLISHER -FIREFLY COMMUNICATIONS

PO Box 11596, Doha, Qatar.Tel: +974 4434 0360 Fax: +974 4434 [email protected] www.firefly-me.com

Cover Image: Monica Bellucci for Cartier

Sortilège de Cartier collection Photographer:

Francesco Escalar © Cartier 2011

Cover Image: Yacht Sailing Against Sunset

Photographer: Anna Subbotina

SUR LA TERRE INTERNATIONAL S.A.

HEAD OFFICE26 avenue de la Praille

1227, Geneva, Switzerland.Tel: + 41 22 310 48 00Fax: + 41 22 310 48 01

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San Francisco travel review

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