N I F T , M u m b a i

Sampling &

Merchandising in

An Export House

By

Jhanvi Dang

Sauumye Chauhan

1

Export Merchandising

Export merchandising is a method of offering retail goods for sale in a foreign consumer market.

Many large companies across the country maintain entire divisions devoted to finding ways to

better enter foreign retail markets through export merchandising to increase profit and sustain

growth. Thanks to the Internet, small businesses can get in on the act as well without the need of

establishing an international supply chain and foreign retail locations. Export merchandising

applies all the principles of product merchandising but in a country separate from the originating

business's home territory. Marketing personnel must determine how the company's proposed

product export can find a niche within a foreign market and how foreign consumers might

receive the product. The business must also find retail locations to display and sell the

merchandise to be exported and ensure that these locations provide adequate access for targeted

consumers to purchase the exported product.

Merchandising Department of an Export House

A merchandiser is an interface between the buyer and the supplier who has to ensure the quality

of production and timely delivery. Merchandising is a process through which products are

planned, developed, executed and presented to the buyers. It includes directing and overseeing

the development of product line from start to finish.

A merchandiser is always careful to order the correct volumes and set the correct process to

maximize the retailers profit. Outside of head office merchandisers also liaise with store

managers and external suppliers and manufacturers.

Opportunities for merchandisers with structured career paths exist within high street retailers,

supermarkets, mail order companies, internet businesses, export houses and some suppliers. In

the export house the whole process of sampling is monitored by a merchandiser. Merchandiser

takes care of everything from ordering the correct fabric, trims, and approvals from buyers etc.

Roles & Responsibilities of a Merchandiser

Key link between the factory and the customer.

Communicate the customer demands

To ensure and assure quality

Optimally using capabilities of the export house by generating enough profitable

business.

Coordination with buyers and collect latest product designs, color scheme and fabric

qualities those are going to be used in coming seasons

Send request to pattern making department for developing patterns for new designs

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Prepare material requirement sheet and get sourcing done of required trims and

accessories from local and imported suppliers

Responsible for quality standards of sourced material

Value added processes like printing and embroidery work is get done by merchants if

required in product

Explain the sampling master about the design and buyers requirement mentioned in

spec sheet

Merchants send samples to buyers for approvals on each stage of development and

download buyers comments to sampling team and pattern master

Do follow up with sampling tailors at the time of stitching of samples

Check finished sample and arrange to send the samples to the buyer

Costing of developed products

Ensuring timely delivery of samples.

Prepare Time & Action Plan

Taking buyers approvals

Negotiation with buyer

Coordination between production and production planning department

Dispatching the shipment

Key personal attributes of a merchandiser:

Strong negotiation skills

Attention to detail

Excellent communication

Understanding of garment construction

Computer literacy with MS Office

Strong time management

Examining customers objectives.

Translating the customers requirements to the designers.

Confirm the capability to meet cost, product and delivery schedule.

Knowledge of latest trend, fabric research and familiarity with the market.

Monitor approval sampling, fitting and production right till delivery.

Keep track of follow up and status of production.

Should be open to all kind of feedback and improvements.

A team player is required to work closely with the warehouse/ shipping and quality control

departments to ensure garments meet quality standards relating to style, colour, and size and

delivery schedules.

3

What Is Sampling?

Sampling is the heart of any export order processing. Sampling means making a sample of the

garment /fabric which requires to be sold. Sampling is one of the main processes in the garment

export industry and it has a vital role in attracting buyers. Sampling gives the customer

satisfaction with respect to the product being manufactured.

Sampling of garments is given great emphasis. It determines the approval of future orders from

buyers and fetches business for a garment manufacturing or export company. Sampling is

one of key elements of the pre-production processes in a garment industry. Before a

manufacturer produces bulk orders, a prior sampling of styles is done to get approvals and

jumpstart the fabrication of garments. Samples of garments work as a bridge between buyers and

the producers.

There may be a separate sampling department in a company. But as the merchandiser is the

person who is interacting with the buyers regarding samples and other requirements, this

sampling department will work under the supervision of merchandising department. Also as the

samples are to be made according to the buyers' price ranges and quality levels, merchandiser has

to advise sampling department suitably.

Importance and Need of Sampling

Sampling is the best way to place an order. Though it is a difficult and time ending process it will

help the exporter to get the order from the buyer. The purpose of sampling is not only to get bulk

order and also it gives some additional benefits to the exporters. By doing sampling the exporter

can estimate the yarn consumption for developing the fabric, a clear idea on costing and

manufacturing difficulties. Besides by doing sampling the exporter can optimize the processing

parameters for mass production, which helps to avoid all kinds of bottle necks .The samples,

decide the ability of an exporter. The buyers will assess the exporter and his organization only by

the samples .If the samples are of good quality and with reasonable price naturally the buyers

will be forced to place the order, So it is essential that the samples should be innovative and with

optimum quality.

Purpose of sampling

To allow the buyer to judge the production capabilities of the manufacturer

To provide a means for making revisions in the bulk production process

To let the manufacturer estimate the thread and fabric consumption, and develop cost

quotations

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Information Provided With a Sample

Ref no.

Color

Fabric

Composition

Description

Quantity

Style no/ Size

Types of Samples

The different types of samples sent to the buyer, in the order of dispatch process, are

Salesmen samples or promotional samples

Proto samples or fit samples

Pre-production samples

Size set samples

Sealer samples

Salesman Samples or Promotional Samples

Some buyer needs these samples for getting the orders from their customers. If the buyer is

having 7 salesmen in his office, then the buyer will ask us to make 7 samples in each style. The

salesmen will book the orders from their customers, by showing these samples. Buyer will place

the order to us accumulating the quantities.

If we have sent samples for 5 styles, sometimes, we may get orders for all 5 styles, 3 styles or 1

style. Sometimes, we may not get order for even a single style. Expected sales may not be

possible, due to poor quality, unsuitable colors, improper measurements, unmatched prints

or embroidery, etc. of salesmen samples. Or it may be due to local business recession or

competition or unsuitable prices. Any way, we have to make these salesmen samples perfectly

with sincere interest to get orders.

Proto Samples or Fit Samples

These samples are to be made after getting the order sheets. These samples are needed to check

the measurements, style and fit. So they can be made in available similar fabrics but in the actual

measurements and specifications.

Some buyers may need these samples if they want to print the photos of garments on photo

inlays, packing box, hang tag, etc. These samples may be needed for local advertisement or

buyer's promotional occasions.

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Pre-Production Samples

These samples are basically approval samples for bulk production. They have to be made in

actual production fabric with actual bulk trims. They will represent that the production will be

like these samples.

Size Set Samples

These samples are meant to allow the buyer to check the dimensions for all the sizes offered.

Hence these samples are needed to be perfect in all manners. Buyer may check these samples for

everything or anything. Sometimes, they may do wash test also. We should not get any remark or

comment. We have to get only 'OK' from the buyer. Then only we can ship the goods and we can

be sure of getting payment. So these samples are to be sent with more care.

Sealer Samples

These samples are the last samples sent to the buyer. They should be sent in actual packing with

all labels, tags, etc. Generally, the buyer should be satisfied by the production capability of the

manufacturer till this phase, as various other samples have been approved by now. However, the

sealer samples provide a means to guarantee that the customer's requirements have been taken

into account, and if there is still any discrepancy, it can be addressed through the sealer samples.

The General Sampling Process

The process of sample department varies from one context to another, and the development

process covers a wide range of diverse products from new fibers, fiber blends, new yarns, fabric

structures, finishes and surface effects and all types of made up products such as knitwear,

hosiery, cut and sewn garments, household products, technical and medical products. There are

different phases of sampling

First Phase

The first phase covers the development of the initial concept or design idea through its

approval by the customer and full review/risk analysis by the development and

production teams.

Second Phase

The second phase covers the process following acceptance of the first prototype sample

and includes the functions of sourcing and ordering component, testing the product and

carrying out trails

Third Phase

Once the finalized sample specifications have been drawn up, the third and final phase

commences. The phase includes range of activities that are carried out before large scale

or bulk production capacity outside the home producer/developers wherever this is

applicable

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General Stages of Sampling for Product Development

Buyer sends the tech pack, defining the requirements. Sometimes a pinned sample might

also be received.

Patterns are developed by pattern masters with necessary amendments in the pinned

sample.

Fit samples are developed.

By the time fit sample is being developed, fabric color, thread runs, embroidery mocks,

lace mock etc. are sent for approval.

Necessary tests are done on the fabrics and trims.

First fit is developed after quality review

The buying houses quality review is sent to the buyer.

If it is not approved, 2nd and 3rd fits are made.

Once the sample gets approved the Market adopt sample and the GPT samples are

developed.

Also cutting is sent to the production unit for checking production feasibility.

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After the production unit report, size sets are developed.

At the sealers level the bulk fabric, trims and other items are sourced

The garment test report is passed and other test reports are passed.

The costing gets finalized.

Before the PPM occurs the complete working on the garment is done

At this level, all the tests should be passed.

General Workforce of Sampling Department

Pattern Master

Tailor Master

Operators

General Workflow of Sampling Department

Sample Requisition sent by Merchandiser along with Fabric & Trims

Patterns Making

Cutting

Stitching

Washing

Measurement Checking

Finishing

Packing

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Conclusion

Sampling is the heart of any export order processing. The future of any style purely depends on

buyer and factory which are adding value to the samples. So it is very important to understand

the sample development process to control quality and costs in the initial stage or in the sampling

development. Merchandiser plays the central role in sampling process as, the only person

between the buyer and factory who understands the buyer specification, technical details and

time line of sampling. The process of sampling is about the eventual satisfaction of specific

needs. It is about products the company can make or out-source profitably for which there is a

market demand. Sampling is the best way to place an order. The purpose of sampling is not only

to get bulk order and also it gives some additional benefits to the exporters. The use of

technology, computer based designing, as well as innovation and creativity are important tools in

driving apparel sampling.