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Foreword

The textile industry has been undergoing a structural crisis for more than

30 years and has some difficulties in finding a level of suitable growth.

The sector’s potential of growth is important because of the emergence

of new outlets thanks to smart textiles and the increasing trend of

Quantified Self.

Raising the subject of smart textiles does not imply to limit oneself only to

the textile industry. Quite the opposite, these new clothes are at the

intersection of multiple disciplines such as electronics, chemistry or

computing. So, technological advances are the foundations of these new

offers even if they are still facing numerous problems of acceptability and

technical stakes connected with their lack of maturity.

Smart textiles approach various markets and target specific consumers

today.

Three major applications caught our attention: Sport, Health and

Protection. We also present the fashion tech.

This study presents an overview of the technological advances, the socio-

economic research, as well as a mapping of Smart textiles’ actors across

the world.

It also presents a forecast of the market from 2018 to 2023.

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KAMITIS is a firm that specializes in scientific expertise, in competitive and business intelligence and in technology watch.

We mainly operate through working with innovative companies, but also intervene on behalf of institutions and investors.

For our clients, we produce state-of-the-art technology studies, market studies, technical and economic studies and benchmarking, due diligence and training.

52 Rue de la République Lyon 69002 FRANCE For more information:

[email protected] - www.kamitis.com

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SMART TEXTILES: DEFINITION

TECHNOLOGIES

APPLICATIONS

DRIVERS & CHALLENGES OF THE MARKET

Drivers 101

Challenges 110 CONSUMER INSIGHT

Consumers’ expectations 119

Consumers’ brakes 126

LEGAL ISSUES INVOLVED

MARKET FORECAST MAPPING OF

COMPANIES & ORGANIZATIONS

Sports application 49

Medical application 61

Protection application 80

Fashion Tech 96

COLLABORATIVE PROJECTS

European Projects 333

North American Projects 340

Asian Projects 345 SOURCES

LIST OF FIGURES

LIST OF TABLES COMPANIES & ORGANIZATIONS MENTIONED

Table of contents

4 8

48

100

118

132

148 161

332

347 359

361 362

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Figure 1: Components in smart textiles

Figure 2: Process of reaction to the environment of smart textiles

Figure 3: The price of a gym membership vs the price of a smart textile

Figure 4: Reasons to quantify yourself (In %)

Figure 5: People who wish to acquire a smart textile for a sports use (In %)

Figure 6: Progressive abandonment of connected bracelets

Figure 7: Quantified Self enthusiasts (in %)

Figure 8 : The use of smart textiles in the healthcare sector

Figure 9: What consumers think of the benefit of smart textiles for healthcare

Figure 10: Portion of people who consider that smart textiles are a source of help to manage their

health

Figure 11: The telemedicine market (in billion $)

Figure 12: Growth of the number of health mobile applications (in thousands)

Figure 13: Portion of the world’s population over 60 in 2050(%)

Figure 14: Risk of a chronic pathology according to one‘s age

Figure 15: Smart textile for home support

Figure 16: Reassuring factors as to the confidentiality of data (%)

Figure 17: Medical data and health data

Figure 18: Marketing authorization processes

Figure 19: Proposition for the declaration of conformity of connected health devices

Figure 20: The condition for the refund of medical smart textiles

Figure 21: Functioning of Bioserenity’s smart t-shirt and hat

Figure 22: Functioning of a smart textile used for protection purposes

Figure 23: The utility of smart textiles for protection

Figure 24: Components and information transmitted by the smartPRO suit

Figure 25: Goals of the Fashion Tech

Figure 26: The sociodemographic driver

Figure 27: Population structure by major age groups, EU-28, 2016-80

Figure 28: Risks of having a chronic disease according to one’s age

Figure 29: The technologic driver

Figure 30: The economic driver

Figure 31: The sectorial driver

Figure 32: Division of companies on the smart textiles market according to their size (%)

Figure 33: Development costs and finished products sales price

Figure 34: Regulatory challenges

Figure 35: Technical challenge

Figure 36: Value chain of smart textiles

Figure 37: Economic challenge

Figure 38: Part of people whom heard about Smart Textiles

Figure 39: Consumer’s expectations

Figure 40: Consumer’s brakes

Figure 41: Consumer’s opinion about the use of Smart Textile for health

List of figures

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Figure 42: Consumer’s opinion about the use of Smart Textile for sport

Figure 43: Consumer’s practice of sports

Figure 44: Part of consumers owning a connected device

Figure 45: The use of connected devices

Figure 46: Part of consumer practicing the Quantified Self

Figure 47: Part of consumer doing sports among the one who quantified themselves

Figure 48: Buying intentions among people practicing sports often and occasionally

Figure 49: Consumer’s opinion about the use of Smart Textile for health

Figure 50: Consumer’s opinion about the use of Smart Textiles for protection

Figure 51: Consumer’s opinion about the professional use of Smart Textiles in sports

Figure 52: Impacts on health mentioned by consumers

Figure 53: The data brake 3 years ago and in 2017

Figure 54: Consumer’s opinion about the use of Smart Textile for sport

Figure 55: Interests in Smart Textiles

Figure 56: Buying intentions

Figure 57: Portion of people willing or not to share their data

Figure 58: Pairing up methods of protection for smart textiles

Figure 59: Global market of smart textiles in 2018

Figure 60: Sector ranking of the smart textiles market in 2018

Figure 61: Global market of smart textiles (in million USD)

Figure 62: Global market of smart textiles by application (in million USD)

Figure 63: Market share of the applications on the global market of smart textiles (in %)

Figure 64: Global market of protective smart textiles (in million USD)

Figure 65: The global market of sports smart textiles (in million USD)

Figure 66: Global market of medical smart textiles (in million USD)

Figure 67: Global market of the textile industry (in million USD)

Figure 68: Growth trajectories of the smart textiles market and the

textile industry (In %)

Figure 69: Growth of the share of smart textiles in the textile industry

Figure 70: Size distribution of firms in the smart textile sector

Figure 71: Distribution of companies in the world

Table 1: Top Wearable Devices by Product, Volume, Market Share, and CAGR

Table 2: Sensitive data

Table 3: Global market of smart textiles (in million USD)

Table 4: Market shares of the applications on the global market of smart textiles

Table 5: Global market of protective smart textiles (in million USD)

Table 6: The global market of sports smart textiles (in million USD)

Table 7: Global market of medical smart textiles (in million USD)

Table 8: Global market of the textile industry (in million USD)

Table 9: Growth rates of the textile industry and of the market of smart

textiles

Table 10: Share of smart textiles in the textile industry

List of tables

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3M Adidas (Textronics) A-Gas Electronic Materials AiQ Smart Clothing Alexium Alphabet Ambiotex AMSilk ANOUK WIPPRECHT FASHIONTECH Appaparel Apple Applied Materials Ardeje Arsenal Medical Asiatic Fiber Corporation @-Health ATHOS BAE SYSTEMS BASF BeBop Sensors Bertin Aubert Industries Biodevices BioSerenity BodyCAP BodyPlus Bodysens Bonbouton Brochier Technologies Calzados Pitillos S.A. Cambridge Consultants Carel’s MySense Carré Technologies Inc. Chromat Clara Swiss Tech Clim8 Clothing+ Corderie Meyer Sansboeuf CuteCircuit Diffus Design Digitsole Directa Plus Doublet Dow Chemical Dracula Technologies DRÄGER Ducere Technologies DuPont Elmarco

EMO SNC

Eolane Group

ERAM

Eurecat

Exo2

E-wear solutions

Filspec

Flex

Footballs & Heartbeats

Forster Rohner Textile Innovations

Freudenberg

GEDS Teknoloji Hiz. Ve Dan Ltd Sti

Globe Turnout Gear

GRAPHENE PRODUCTION

H2C brands LLC

HealthWatch Ltd

Heddoko

Holding Textile Hermès

HT Concept

Imprint Energy

Infineon

Infi-Tex

Infoscitex

Intel Corporation

Intelligent Textile Limited

Interactive Wear

International Fashion Machines

Isorg

ITP GMBH

Jabil

Jasnarok

Jenax

Kolon Glotech

Komodo Technologies

LEITAT

Levi Strauss

Liebaert

LifeBEAM

Life Sense Group

Like A Glove

Medical Design Solution

Microsoft

Midlinghtsun

MOULINAGE DU SOLIER

Muebleconfort

Myant & Co

Myzone

Nanowear

Nike

Noble Biomaterials

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Nuada

Ohmatex

OMSignal

Osmotex

OtherLab

Outlast Technologies

Paneratech

Percko

Phillips

Pireta

Plasmachem Produktions- und Handel GMBH

Plug & Wear

Power Textile Limited

Primo1D

Printed Electronics Ltd

Puls@care

Rest Devices

SALOMON SAS

Samsung

Sarvint Technologies

Schoeller

SCIENCE ET SURFACE

SEFAR HOLDING AG

Sensing Tex

Sensoree

Sensoria

Shiftwear

Silic Shirts

Siren Care

Smartex

Sofileta

Solvay

Spinali Design

Stretchsense

Tecnalia

TE-Connectivity

Teijin

Teslasuit

Texas Instruments

Texinov

Texisense

TEXTILES DE LA DUNIERE

The Unseen

Thermal Tech

THERM-IC

TIBTECH innovations

Toray Industries

Toyobo

Twinery

Under Armour

Visijax

Vitali Wear

Wearable Life Science (ANTELOPE CLUB)

Wearable Media

Wearable X

XO International

Zoll

ZSK Stickmaschinen

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Asociacion para la promocion, investigacion,

desarrollo e innovacion tecnologica de la industria

del calzado y conexas de la rioja

Binghamton University BLUMINE SRL CEA LETI

Center for optics, photonics and laser

Centexbel

CETI

CETEMMSA

CITEVE (Portugal)

CLUTEX

Coventry University

CNIL

CNOM

CSEM

CSMO Textile

Darpa

Dartmouth College DIGITAL SPACES LIVING LAB OOD Ecole Polytechnique fédérale de Lausanne

Empa

Ensait

EPFL

Eurocarers

FDA

FTC

Groupe CTT

Harvard University

Heritage Bank

IFTH

Imec

IMP Innovation Service Network Podjetnisko in Poslovno Svetovanje doo INRS

Instituto Italiano di technologia Politecnico di Torino

Instituto tecnologico de Aragon

ISPB International Project Management, Plating and Materials Jess Jur, NC State School of Textiles Kaist

Katholieke Universiteit Leuven

Leitat

Luksja Sp. Z o.o.

Massachussetts Institute of Technology

National Center for sensors research

National Research & Development Institute

for Textiles and Leather

National Science Foundation

Next Technology Tecnotessile

Nottingham Trent University

Pratt Institute

Queen Mary University Of London Saratov University

Saxony Institute Textile Research (Germany)

School of Design

Stanford University

Textile Center of Excellence (Regno Unito)

Textile Research Institute of Spain

Textile Research Institute of Thuringia-

Vogtland

Université Claude Bernard Lyon 1 Universitat Der KUNSTE BERLIN University of California

Université Catholique de Louvain

University of Central Florida

University For The Creative Arts University of Dresden

University of Eindhoven

University of Massachussetts

University of Pennsylvania

University of Rhode Island

University of South Carolina

University of Washington

Univerza v Mariboru

Uniwersytet Przyrodniczo

VTT

Wearable Computing Laboratory (Australia)

WE CONNECT DATA

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SMART TEXTILES DEFINITION

Textiles are a part of our

daily life. Their first

functions were to protect

Man against bad

weather, before

aesthetics came to play

an important role in

dressing. Now, textiles

are liked for their

technical performances.

They also become

smarter and interactive.

Smart textiles, also called E-

Textile or even Smart Fabric

and Interactive Textile (SFIT),

are now immerging in our

daily lives. In 2004, the

European Committee for

Standardization (CEN)

integrated in its classification

a reference for smart textiles

(Bost and Crosetto, 2014).

Smart textiles are textiles

that spread the

functionalities and utility

of regular fabrics. Their

structure enables them to

receive and react to

different environmental

stimuli (thermal, chemical,

electrical stimuli…) in a

predictable and useful

way. Smart textiles have 3

functionalities: sensitivity,

reactivity and adaptability

(Ref 1).

3 categories of smart textiles (ref 2) exist,

referencing to those 3 functionalities:

Passive

smart

textiles

Active

smart

textiles

Very

smart

textiles

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TECHNOLOGIES Numerous technologies are

necessary for the manufacturing of

smart textiles.

The different fibers are an essential part, from fiber optic, the most mature, to technologies

currently being developed in order to make fibers conductive.

Different materials are also used: form memory materials, chromic materials and phase

changing materials.

Regular manufacturing technologies will not be replaced in the medium term. They will be

complementary to new manufacturing technologies currently being developed. Some of the

latter, like E-thread and Diablo are promising and will enable an easier integration in the textile

of the different active elements such as the pressure or electrochemical sensors or

communication devices such as antennas.

Finally, the development and the integration of technologies related to the supply of power

will be essential for the rise of smart textiles. Those technologies represent a real technical

challenge because they lack maturity and still require proofs of more accomplished concepts.

Fibers Inks Active

materials

Classical

productions

New

productions

Pressure

sensors

Electrochemical

sensors

Power

supply

Memory Communication

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Companies like Creative Materials Incorporated, DuPont, Methode Electronics Incorporated,

Motson, Think and tinker limited make and sell conductive inks.

Those inks have to be resistant to oxidization, with a good adhesion as well as an appropriated

viscosity and a low accumulation of particles. They are generally applied by engraving,

flexography or silk-screen printing.

Engraving uses solid metals. This method mobilizes a lot of machines for it needs several

printing rollers and its implementation can prove to be rather expensive.

Conductive inks

Conductive inks have to contain

a highly conductive metal

precursor

By adding metal such as

carbon, copper, silver,

nickel or gold to a regular

ink, it becomes conductive

and can be printed on

different substrates such as

paper, plastic or textiles.

TRL9

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Flexography also calls for the use of rollers but is still less expensive than engraving. Yet, the

cost of the ink is higher because of the depth of the forms. Moreover, flexography is slower

and offers less complexity of design than engraving.

Silk-screen printing is appropriated for electric and electronic manufacturing thanks to the

capacity to produce forms in thick coats. Researchers from the University of Southampton

developed a network of screen printed electrodes associated with conductive tracks for a

medical application.

New processes, like digital printing, seem promising for conductive inks. This technique

eliminates intermediate stages because the design that has to be created is directly sent to

the printer, which offers a quality printing and good productivity. Researchers of the Instituto

Italiano di technologia Politecnico di Torino developed a sensor for inkjet printer made of

silver nanoparticles on a flexible polyamide patch.

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Recently, a research group of Professor Takao Someyaof the University of Tokyo managed

to create a high electric conductivity ink that requires only a single printing on textile.

Composed of sliver flakes, organic solvent, fluororubber and fluorinated surfactants, it stays

flexible (it can stretch up to 3 times its size) and ultra-conductive. The simplicity of the process,

the flexibility of the material and its high conductivity enable its use in numerous applications

(Ref 13).

Good productiveness

Good adhesion

Resistance

High cost of some

processes

Rigidity

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Sports Applications

The use of smart textiles applied to fitness and sports saw the highest growth of the sector of

smart textiles.

The success of smart textiles in the field of sports should allow for their global generalization

and act as a springboard for the penetration of other markets. The sports sector thus still

constitutes a « test bench » for these new textiles in a public use.

There are only few products out on the market. The Nadi X pants by Wearable X are yoga pants

with an integrated technology that guides the wearer in achieving perfect posture in yoga. The

t-shirt made by Carré Technologie or the one made by Cityzen Sciences show the advantages

of these new textiles.

For sports people, smart textiles could provide:

- Thermal comfort (thermal isolation, evacuation of the sweat…);

- Increased performances;

- A precise measure of physiological parameters (ECG…);

- Adapted trainings according to the user’s profile.

Smart wearables are expected to growth more and more quickly in the years to come.

Another data that suggests a

strong growth of the sector is

that in 2016, 102 million smart

garments were sold in the world

and in 2020, the number of units

sold is expecting to reach 213.6

million (Ref 45).

SPORTS APPLICATIONS

Unit shipments from 2017 to 2021 (in millions) (Ref 44)

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MEDICAL APPLICATION

Despite a lower level of development, the medical application of smart textile will

grow rapidly. and, in 2023, the medical application will represent 60.03% of market

shares.

If it is difficult to develop this application, it is largely because of the complexity of

the healthcare industry itself for each product has to go through lengthy and

expensive authorization processes in order to be put on the market. Moreover, the

impact of the exchange of data raises an ethical problem because medical data are

the most sensible kind of data.

Respiratory

Monitoring Heart rate

Monitoring

Muscular

Monitoring

Figure 8 : The use of smart textiles in the healthcare sector

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In 2016, there were 7.1 million remotely monitored patients. This number is expected to reach 50.2 million by 2021. (Ref 53) The global market for Patient monitoring devices is expected to grow at a CAGR of 5.7%

from 2014 to 2022 and reach $23.4 billion. As announced, the Asia-Pacific market grows

rapidly, but North America remains the market for patient monitoring devices. Europe

takes the second place, behind North America, as largest market for patient monitoring

devices, and is expected to grow steadily during the forecasted period (Ref 54).

The medical application is a key to success for smart textiles, particularly for continuous monitoring, neonatal care and surveillance of certain diseases like diabetes or epilepsy. This application is currently being developed even though it is complex for companies that invest in smart wearables for healthcare purposes because each product must go through lengthy and expensive authorization processes to be put on the market. Moreover, the impact of the exchange of data cannot be neglected as it can pose an ethical problem because medical data are the most sensible ones. The medical application of smart textiles concerns two main applications: monitoring and home support. The common point of those uses resides in the monitoring that can refer to Quantified Self, that is to say the monitoring of variables that cannot exceed a certain limit. Smart medical clothes are equipped with sensors that monitor the patient. Those clothes combine textile and telemedicine for the monitoring of different parts of the body. They (CNIL, 2014) :

• Warn patients on the evolution of their disease, • Help physicians diagnosing a disease, • Monitor the physiological variables of a patient,

• Automatically alert the ER if needed. The collected data are then sent to telemedicine centers via a communication network.

Most monitoring focus on diabetes, cardiovascular, respiratory and neurological diseases and the elderly with specific needs.

• People worried about staying healthy could use those smart textiles to monitor their way of life and adapt it if needed.

• People in good health but who could develop a specific disease could wear those smart textiles to prevent the declaration of a disease.

Patients suffering from a chronic disease could better manage their condition, prevent or delay a disease and ease one’s pain thanks to textiles that administers a drug. The elderly can be remotely monitored and stay at home thanks to those devices that will help relatives and physicians to anticipate an accident. Smart textiles increase the interaction between the doctor and the patient, making the latter actor of their own health With the use of smart textiles, patients could live better, be healthier and more independent. They will consequently lower the cost of healthcare.

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PROTECTION APPLICATION

The protection application is a driver for the smart textile market

in general. Like many innovations such as the Internet or the

GPS, it is in the military that smart textiles have been created

with the Wearable Motherboard project (Ref 70). Protection is still

the biggest sector of smart textiles and the most mature. It

should stay the case until 2020 (Ref 71).

The global smart textile market saw an important growth in all

major end-use sectors. The military sector remains one of the

most attractive sectors. Soldiers could achieve a higher level of

performance thanks to the integration of sensors, triggers and

control units in their clothing. In the military sector, smart textiles

can be used to camouflage a soldier, monitor health, detect one’s

location and sense heat or cold stress (Ref 72).

Smart textiles used for protection not only concern military

personnel but also the safety of firefighters, law enforcement and

workers. The protection sector represents the whole of clothing

items, gloves, shoes and accessories for the safety in the

professional field. Their goal is to protect people from impacts,

heat, cold, nuclear, bacteriological and chemical risks.

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The utility of smart textiles for

protection

In extreme environmental conditions and risky situations, it is necessary to obtain information in real time to increase the protection of people working under these circumstances. Risks and threats are diverse: extreme temperatures, chemical risks, accidents (falls), voluntary attacks, physiological accidents (a heart attack for example).

Smart textiles have a great potential in the protection application because they enable the increase of the level of security and comfort of soldiers, firefighters and workers.

Smart textiles contribute to the protection in various ways (Van Langenhove, Puers, Matthys, 2005) :

• They can detect conditions that will prevent a danger. • They prevent accidents by sending a signal when dangerous conditions are detected.

• In case of serious threats, they react by providing instantaneous protection.

In view of those 3 means of protection, the real benefit resides in the capacity to adapt to the environment and to react according to events. Smart textiles offer a higher level of protection when necessary. There is a balance between comfort and protection.

A protection

against extreme

temperatures

Greater

comfort

Location

detection

Camouflage

Figure 24: Functioning of a smart textile used

for protection purposes

By detecting a danger, the smart textile

increases the level of protection of the

uniform. There is a balance between

comfort and the level of protection

required.

Figure 24: The utility of smart textiles for

protection

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A need for

information

on the field

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FASHION TECH

According to blogger STEM Educator Collette Costello Manchester UK « Fashion Technology

is the use of new technologies specifically within fashion such as Augmented Reality, Virtual

Reality, Artificial Intelligence (robots/ machines), Wearable Technology, Interactive

Chemicals, E-inks, Smart Fabrics, 3D Printing and the Internet of Things » (Ref 85).

In that sense, Fashion Tech is a mix between fashion and technology (Ref 86). It is the

way that designers incorporate the technology into the garment itself. This process aims at

making the garment aesthetic and offering customers a new digital experience in clothing

(Ref 87).

Some might define fashion tech as follows: “it’s where technology and fashion have merged

to create faster and more innovative ways to shop, market, educate and ultimately

experience the fashion industry whether through software, apps or products.” (Jennifer

Margolin, Founder of the Social Edge Summit).

In this study, we chose to define Fashion as Smart Garments.

Fashion Tech has two goals. The first one is to make the garment more beautiful with

technology. Designers play with various functions such as the change of color and light.

The second concerns sociability, for which, designers incorporate communication devices

into the garment in order to share data on social media or to interact with someone.

Sociability

Figure 25: Goals of the Fashion

Tech

Make the garment more

beautiful

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The most important factor is technology. Indeed, it is thanks to

technological advances that smart textiles exist. And it is in a «techno-

push» logic that innovative textiles arrive on the market.

Moreover, real needs emerge like the galvanization of the European

textile industry or because of some sociodemographic factors (aging

population…).

Despite a promise of steady growth for the next few years, the smart

textiles market has to take up diverse challenges. Companies on this

market should begin economies of scale so as to offer more affordable

prices. They also have to make those textiles credible and legitimate in

the eyes of consumers by proposing and setting up standards and

regulations.

The growth of the smart textiles market should be led by

sociodemographic, technological, economic and sectorial factors.

THE DRIVERS AND CHALLENGES OF THE

MARKET

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Challenges Despite powerful drivers, there are

challenges that slow down the growth of the market.

Development costs and

final price

The market is emerging

and companies have to

bear important R&D

costs. Those costs affect

the final price which is,

now, twice what

consumers are willing to

pay.

Regulatory challenge

Some markets, like the medical market have

to respect a strict regulation. Clinical tests

have a cost and take time. Moreover, the

question of the refund is not sorted out.

Economic challenges

The lack of qualified resources in

smart textiles and unknown links

in the value chain lead to a lack of

strategic plans by companies.

Technical challenges

Technologies are ready. But

some challenges like energy and

the direct integration of sensors

in fibers are still not solved.

Social challenges

The exchange of data, risks

for one’s health and the lack

of clear benefits for users

are challenges that have to

be taken up.

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CONSUMER INSIGHTS Smart Textiles are pretty new for consumers. Three years

ago when we lead a consumer insight survey, very few

aware of the Smart Textiles.

Figure 39: Part of people whom heard about Smart

Textiles

Did not heard about Smart Textiles (28.80%)

Heard about Smart Textiles (71.20)

71.2% of consumers

have heard about

Smart Textiles

Study conducted

in 2017

Panel of

250 peoples

Figure 40: Consumer’s expectations

For it to assist me when I exercise (49.19%)

For it to come with me when I travel (20.65%)

For it to charge my phone (9.69%)

For it to change colors (4.85%)

For it to be connected to another

connected object (10.95%)

Nothing (4.67%)

Figure 41: Consumer’s brakes

I do not find it useful (6.65%)

I do not like when electronic components are close to my skin (10.05%)

I fear for my health because of wave emission (16.85%)

The price (25.35%)

How to care for it (14.53%)

Comfort (8.19%)

My data being used (12.52%)

The complexity of use (5.87%)

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The “Healthy Lifestyle” trend is for the

consumer to eat healthy, to take care of

their body practicing sports, fitness, yoga

and feeling “strong and confident”.

The “Healthy Lifestyle” trend is

shown and promoted on social

networks.

Instagram alone counts up to 95

millions of healthy hashtags and

tweets about healthy lifestyle are as

numerous.

Moreover, Smart Textiles can be a real

health assistant. Consumers are pretty

interested in the use of Smart Textiles

to heal themselves or to monitor their

health state. 37.6% of them think a

Smart Textile would be useful to cure

an illness and 40.8% think a Smart

Textile would help them.

Figure 41: Consumer’s opinion about

the use of Smart Textile for health

It is very useful (37.6%)

It is a constraint (10.4%)

It will help me heal (40.8%)

It is not useful (5.2%)

I do not like it (6%)

For the Smart Textiles to be a wellness/health assistant

The first consumers’ expectation is for the Smart Textiles to be a

wellness/health assistant.

This expectation follows the “Healthy Lifestyle” we have been noticing for

the past 3 years.

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LEGAL ISSUES

Involved with Smart Textiles

Even though the smart textiles market is only emerging, it already shows signs of

strong competition. Thus, it is best for companies to protect their innovations so

as to obtain returns on investments. Because of the nature of smart textiles, it

seems wise to use several means of protection.

If the majority of markets are highly regulated, the connected textiles market is

faced with a legal void. It is not so much about protecting a technology but about

guaranteeing the good use of the users’ personal data.

Faced with the diversity of skills required for smart textiles, companies join forces

and put in common their strength. It is recommended to supervise those

partnerships by consortium contracts or licenses. But protecting the company’s

anterior and in house expertise should not be forgotten.

In USA / Europe / APAC

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MARKET FORECASTS

The global market of smart textiles is estimated at $853.97 million in

2018 and should reach $2,242.95 million in 2023.

The protection application which currently dominates the market should

become second with a market share of X% in 2023. This decrease in

market shares will do good for the medical application which will

represent X%

Despite a lower level of development, the medical application should

experience a strong growth this year. This growth can be explained by

the current standardization projects of the European Community on

connected health.

The growth rates of the protection application are encouraging. But its

growth should not be as strong during the studied period of time.

The sports application should greatly participate in the democratization

of smart textiles but will quickly be slowed down by a lack of interests

from consumers.

$853.97 million

Figure 59: Global market of

smart textiles in 2018

PROTECTION SPORTS

HEALTH

Figure 60: Sector ranking of the smart textiles

market in 2018

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151 companies and 19 organizations relevant in the sector of smart textiles were cataloged.

The market is mostly composed of small and medium-sized businesses, representing 40,2% of the

economic base of the sector. Startups represent 25,4% of the market.

The presence of big companies is new. Up until a few years ago, they were under-represented on

this market. Now, they represent 17,2% of it.

Figure 70: Size distribution of firms in the smart textile sector

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MAPPING OF COMPANIES AND ORGANIZATIONS

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Date of creation

1853

CEO

Charles V. Bergh

Country

USA

Workforce

N/A

Revenue

4.9b USD

Sector

Fashion

http://levistrauss.com/

ACTIVITY

Levi Strauss

Levi Strauss is world-famous for its jeans. In 2001, Levi’s had

formed a partnership with Philips and had commercialized a

jacket equipped with a cell phone and an MP3 player. This product

did not meet the expected success.

In 2015, The company signed a partnership with Google for the

Project Jacquard. Its goal was to design a smart item of clothing.

This item was supposed to be made from conductive materials

and electronic components that could control other smart

objects from a distance.

At the beginning, Google and Levi Strauss wanted to design a

smart jean. They wanted to develop a conductive fabric to allow

the jean to send data and be powered without any wires. The

project changed quite a lot since then, as it is now a jacket, and the

only smart part is one sleeve of jacket. It is sold at the price of 350

USD.

The smart part of the sleeve is made of a tag acting like a smart

watch: it lights up, vibrates when receiving notifications, can be

tapped to command the smartphone and is the hub of the jacket.

The user only has to stroke his arm to control his smartphone.

To be used, the jacket constantly needs to be connected to the

Smartphone and the user has to use their headphones. Finally,

the jacket can only be washed 10 times, after this the smart tag

will be damaged.

The patent relative to the jacket is named “Interactive fabric”

(WO2017200949 A1) and was filed in 2016.

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Date of creation

2014

CEO

Simon Cooper

Country

Israel

Workforce

10

Revenue

N/A

Sector

Sport

http://likeaglove.me/

ACTIVITY

Like A Glove

Like a Glove developed and commercializes leggings which measure the user’s waist and

hips at multiple points thanks to a sensor on the front of the garment. There is only one size

available as the leggings are stretchy enough to fit from a size 0 to a size 20. A battery the

size of a coin is embedded in the leggings and has an estimated lifetime of 5 years. A mobile

app allows the user to share her progress on her social networks.

This garment has two main goals. The first one is to track fitness progress overtime. The

second one is to help the user to choose the best form of jeans according to her body shape.

One patent was filed in 2014 entitled “Self-Measurement Garment”. It explains

“Measurement apparatus includes an elastic fabric, configured as a garment to be worn over

a part of a body of a subject. One or more conductive fibers are integrated with the elastic

fabric to as to stretch together with the elastic fabric when worn over the part of the body. A

controller is coupled to measure an electrical property of the one or more conductive fibers

in response to stretching of the elastic fabric, and to output an indication of a dimension of the

part of the body based on the measured property.”

The legging is sold online at the price of $ 80.

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Date of creation

1987

CEO

Seok Sun Choe

Country

Korea

Workforce

N/A

Revenue 570m USD

(2016)

Sector

Textile

http://www.kolonglotech.co.kr/

ACTIVITY

Kolon Glotech

Kolon Glotech is a manufacturing company specialized in automotive materials and life materials. They

design and manufacture car seat modules and fabrics, artificial turf, polypropylene staple fiber and

polyester filaments.

They developed a heat generating textile. To do so, the fabric is manufactured from conductor polymers,

electronic circuitry and an electronic device fusion technique. This textile called Heatex, heats up

uniformly and can be controlled thanks to a smartphone. It can be used in sports clothing and also

workwear. This technology can also protect military from hard weather condition.

The brand, Kolon Sport, commercialized the « Life Tech Jacket », a jacket for extreme activities and winter

sports. The jacket is made of 3 layers of fabric: the external layer is waterproof, the layer in between is

made of conductor polymers generating heat and the internal layer contains all the electronics as well as

the battery for the heating system. The jacket also contains a miniature wind turbine that can supply

energy to the item of clothing, a GPS or a smartphone. The jacket can also be placed in a tent to generate

energy. The Life Tech Jacket was launched in December 2013.

In 2018, Kolon collaborates with Nokia and GINA

(software developper) to create the CHASE

LifeTech FR. The jacket allows the user to have

data such as heart rate, temperature or location

through modular sensors. These sensors can

therefore be changed to measure different types

of data. For example, a firefighter will need more

than one temperature sensor. These sensors

transmit data in real time which can be useful for

police and firefighters during their

interventions, for example.

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Date of creation

2014

CEO Alexis Ucko

Country

France

Workforce

15 employees

Revenue N/A

Sector Healthcare and

fitness

www.percko.com/

ACTIVITY

Percko

Perko designed a smart t-shirt that helps its users adopt a better posture every day.

The founders noted that the origin of 33% of work accidents was a back problem. By working

with physiotherapists and masseur-physiotherapists, Alexis Ucko and Quentin Perraudeau

developed a patented system made of tensors that maintain the spinal column and put a

painless pressure on the back in case of bad posture.

Acting as a second skin, the system is invisible under a t-shirt.

Two products are available online: The Lyne Up to release back pain and Lyne Up to avoid

back pain while working out. Both are sold at the price of 129 euros.

Percko owns a worldwide patent entitled “Posture Improvement Aid”, filed in 2016

(WO2016198358 (A1)). It explains “The invention relates to a posture improvement aid (DISP)

comprising: a belt including a rear portion; a first side stretcher including a first end and a

second side stretcher including a first end, the first ends of the first side stretcher and of the

second side stretcher meeting in a stimulation region; and a resilient connection including a

first end attached to the rear portion of the belt and a second end attached to the stimulation

region, said resilient connection being constructed and arranged such that when the rear

portion of the belt is positioned on the posterior superior iliac spine of the user, the

stimulation region is positioned between the third lumbar vertebra and the fifth lumbar

vertebra of the user.”

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Canadian Projects

European Projects

United States Projects

Asian Projects

COLLABORATIVE PROJECTS

The first project concerning a smart textile was carried out at the beginning of the ‘90s by DARPA and is known as the « Wearable Motherboard ».

As of now, 11 European projects are ongoing or have recently ended. For the most part, they were financed by the European Union. 6 North-American

projects were listed. Moreover, North-American projects are more centered on protection applications than European projects.

Finally, 1 Asian project is presented.

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MATUROLIFE aims at addressing the gap of the Assistive Technologies (AT), which can be stigmatising and uncomfortable because of the lack of relevance,

weak reliability or also poor design. This results in older people not using them and thus not benefitting from them. That is why, MATUROLIFE plans on designing prototypes with the help of users. They will develop functional and more fashionable items of clothing,

footwear and furnitutre.

MATUROLIFE will develop smart textiles and fabrics to contribute to the independence, quality of life and dignity of senior citizens living in urban areas. The

overall improvement of Assistive Technologies (AT) will lead to reduced needs and thus reduced costs of long-

term care.

To do so, MATUROLIFE will follow a genuine co-design approachin involving older people (Ref 131).

Calendar Beginning: 01/2018 End: 12/2020

Funding N/A Budget N/A

Companies Coventry University, Eurocarers, Uniwersytet Przyrodniczo, Institut francais du textile et de l’habillement, Instituto tecnologico de Aragon, Printed Electronics Ltd…

PROJECT

Calendar Beginnin: 04/2016

End: 03/2021

Funding N/A

Budget €2,112,500

Companies Comune di Prato,

Capofila , Next Technology Tecnotessile,

Regione Lodz , CLUTEX, Textile

Research Institute …

PROJECT

RESET

RESearch Centers of Excellence in the Textile sector is designed to improve research and innovation infrastructures. RESET wants to promote the exchange of good practices between regions and research centers of

European textile districts. The goal is also to transfer skills and experiences concerning

innovative methodologies and solutions that were proved to be successful in the participating regions. The aim is to make good practices and

promote projects that will support regional excellences in terms of research, innovation and

development.

The principal objectives are to encourage the industry to convert to smart textiles or even

promote the use of natural fibers and local raw materials (Ref 132).

Maturolife

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