Rules of Snooker

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Type of Game: International or "English" snooker is the most widely played form of snooker around the world. It is generally played on 6'x12' English billiard tables, with cushions that are more narrow than on pocket billiard tables and which curve smoothly into the pocket openings. 5 x 10 and snooker tables of even smaller playing dimensions may be used for the game. On a 6 x 12 snooker (English billiard) table the playing area within the cushion faces shall measure 11' 8.5" x 5' 10" with a tolerance on both dimensions of +/-0.5". The height of the table is measured from the floor to the top of the cushion rail, and the height shall measure 34" with an allowable variance of +/-0.5".

Players: 2

Balls Used: Set of Snooker balls: fifteen object balls that are not numbered and are solid red (called reds), six object balls of other colors that are not numbered (called colors) and a cue ball (called the white ball). Point values for object balls: red-1, yellow-2, green-3, brown-4, blue-5, pink-6, black-7. In International Snooker the balls used are 2-1/16" diameter.

The Rack: Play begins with the balls placed as in the diagram above. The pink is spotted on the Pyramid Spot. The apex ball of the triangle of reds is racked as close as possible to the pink without touching it.

Baulk-line and Baulk: A straight line drawn 29" from the face of the bottom cushion and parallel to it is called the Baulk-line and the intervening space termed the Baulk.

The Half Circle: The Half Circle is a semi-circle described in Baulk with its center at the middle of the Baulk-line and with a radius of 11.5". When the striker has cue ball in hand within the Half Circle he may place the base of the cue ball anywhere on the line or within the Half Circle, and may use his hand or any part of his cue (including the tip) to position the cue ball--as long as it is judged he is not attempting to play a stroke.

Object of the Game: To score a greater number of points than opponent.

Scoring: Points are scored in two ways: players are awarded points for fouls by the opponent (see Penalties For Fouls below), and by legally potting reds or colors. Each legally potted red ball has a point value of one; each legally potted color ball has a point value as indicated (Balls Used above). A frame ends when all balls have been potted, following the Rules of Play; if, however, only the black (7) ball is left on the table, the frame ends with the first score or foul. If the players' scores are equal after that scoring, the black is spotted on its original position and the layers lag or draw lots for the choice of playing at, or assigning opponent to play at, the black ball with the cue ball in hand within the Half Circle, first score or foul then ends the frame.

Opening Break: Players lag or draw lots for choice of break in the opening frame. In a match format the players alternate the break in subsequent frames. Starting player has cue ball in hand within the Half Circle. He must cause the cue ball to contact a red ball. It is not necessary to send a ball to a rail or into a pocket. Failure to meet this requirement is a foul (see Penalties For Fouls) A foul is scored and--with all fouls--the incoming player has a choice of (1) accepting the table and becoming the striker, or (2) requiring the offender to break again.

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Rules of Play

1. A legally potted ball entitles the striker to continue at the table until he fails to legally pot a ball.

2. On all shots, the striker must comply with the appropriate requirements of Rules of Play 5 and 6. It is not necessary to cause the cue ball or an object ball to contact a cushion or drop in a pocket after the cue ball has contacted a legal object ball (ball on). Failure to contact a legal object ball first is a foul.

3. As long as reds are on the table, the incoming striker (player taking his first stroke of an inning) always has a red as his legal object ball (ball on).

4. Any red balls potted on a legal shot are legally potted balls; the striker need not call any particular red ball(s), pocket(s) or details of how the pot will be played.

5. When the striker has a red ball as his "ball on" (legal object ball), he must cause the cue ball's first contact to be with a red ball. Failure to do so is a foul (See Penalties For Fouls)

6. After the striker has scored a red ball initially, his next legal object is a color, and as long as reds remain on the table he must alternate his play between reds and colors (though within each group he may play a ball of his choice). When reds remain on the table and a color is his object, the striker must (a) designate prior to stroking which color ball is his object (that specific color is then his "ball on"), and (b) cause the cue ball's first contact with a ball to be with that colored ball. If the striker fails to meet these requirements, it is a foul (See Penalties For Fouls).

7. If the striker's ball on is a red, and he pots a color, it is a foul.

8. If the striker's ball on is a color, and he pots any other ball, it is a foul.

9. Jump shots are illegal in International Snooker. It is a foul if the striker intentionally causes the cue ball to jump (rise from the bed of the table) by any means, if the jump is an effort to clear an obstructing ball.

10. While reds remain on the table, each potted color is spotted prior to the next stroke (see Spotting Balls below for spotting rules). After a color has been spotted, if the striker plays while that ball is incorrectly spotted (and opponent or referee calls it before two such plays have been taken), the shot taken is a foul. If the striker plays two strokes after such error without its being announced by opponent or referee, he is free of penalty and continues playing and scoring normally as though the spotting error simply had not occurred. The striker is responsible for ensuring that all balls are correctly spotted before striking. If the striker plays while a ball(s) that should be on the table is not a foul may be awarded whenever the foul is discovered during the striker's inning. Any scoring prior to the discovery of the foul will count.

11. When no reds remain on the table, striker's balls on become the colors, in ascending numerical order (2,3,4,5,6,7). These legally potted colors are not spotted after each is potted; they remain off the table. (The black (7) ball is an exception in the case of a tie score; see Scoring.)

Illegally Potted Ball: Reds illegally potted are not spotted; they remain off the table. Colors illegally potted are spotted. (See Spotting Balls.)

Object Balls Jumped off the Table: Reds jumped off the table are not spotted and the striker has committed a foul. Colors jumped off the table are spotted and the striker has committed a foul. (See Penalties For Fouls)

Spotting Balls: Reds are never spotted. Colors to be spotted are placed as at the start of the game. If a color's spot is occupied (to mean that to spot it would make it touch a ball), it is placed on the spot of the highest value color that is unoccupied. If all spots are occupied, the color is spotted as close as possible to its original spot on a straight line between its spot and the nearest point on the top (foot) cushion.

Cue Ball after Jumping off the Table: Incoming player has cue ball in hand within the Half Circle. When cue ball is in hand within the Half Circle (except the opening break), there is no restriction (based on position of reds or colors) as to what balls may be played; striker may play at any ball on regardless of where it is on the table.

Touching a Ball: While balls are in play it is a foul if the striker touches any object ball or if the striker touches the cue ball with anything other than the tip during a legal stroke.

Snookered: The cue ball is snookered when a direct stroke in a straight line to any part of every ball on is obstructed by a ball or balls not on. If there is any one ball that is not so obstructed, the cue ball is not snookered. If in-hand within the Half Circle, the cue ball is snookered only if obstructed from all positions on or within the Half Circle. If the cue ball is

obstructed by more than one ball, the one nearest to the cue ball is the effective snookering ball.

Angled: The cue ball is angled when a direct stroke in a straight line to any part of every ball on is obstructed by a corner of the cushion. If there is any one ball on that is not so obstructed, the cue ball is not angled. If angled after a foul the referee or player will state "Angled Ball", and the striker has the choice to either (1) play from that position or (2) play from in hand within the Half Circle.

Occupied: A spot is said to be occupied if a ball cannot be placed on it without its touching another ball.

Touching Ball: If the cue ball is touching another ball which is, or can be, on, the referee or player shall state "Touching Ball." Thereafter the striker must play away from it or it is a push stroke (foul). No penalty is incurred for thus playing away if (1) the ball is not on; the ball is on and the striker nominates such ball; or (3) the ball is on and the striker nominates, and first hits, another ball. [If the referee considers that a touching ball has moved through an agency other than the player, it is not a foul.]

Push Stroke: A push stroke is a foul and is made when the tip of the cue remains in contact with the cue ball (1) when the cue ball makes contact with the object ball, or (2) after the cue ball has commenced its forward motion. Provided that where the cue ball and an object ball are almost touching, it shall be deemed a legal stroke if the cue ball hits the finest possible edge of the object ball.

Miss: The striker shall to the best of his ability endeavor to hit the ball on. If the referee considers the rule infringed he shall call foul and a "miss." The incoming player (1) may play the ball(s) as they lie, or (2) may request that the ball(s) be returned to the original position and have the offending player play the stroke again. Note: if the ball on cannot possibly be hit, the striker is judged to be attempting to hit the ball on.

Free Ball: After a foul, if the cue ball is snookered, the referee or player shall state "Free Ball." If the non-offending layer takes the next stroke he may nominate any ball as on. For this stroke, such ball shall be regarded as, and acquire the value of, the ball on. It is a foul should the cue ball fail to first hit, or - except when only the pink and black remain on the table - be snookered by, the free ball. If the "free ball" is potted, is is spotted, and the value of the ball on is scored. if the ball on is potted it is scored. If both the "free ball" and the ball on are potted, only the value of the ball on is scored.

Fouls

If a foul is committed:

1. the player who committed the foul incurs the penalty prescribed (which is added to the opponent's score), and has to play again if requested by the next player. Once such a request has been made it cannot be withdrawn. 2. should more than one foul be committed in the same stroke the highest value penalty shall be incurred. 3. any ball improperly spotted shall remain where positioned, except that if off the table it shall be correctly spotted.

Penalties for Fouls

The following are fouls and incur a penalty of four points or the higher one prescribed:

1. value of the ball on -

by striking:

a) when the balls are still moving from the previous shot. b) the cue ball more than once (double hit). c) without at least one foot on the floor. d) out of turn. e) improperly from in hand within the Half Circle.

by causing:

f) the cue ball to miss all object balls. g) the cue ball to enter a pocket. h) a snooker with free ball. i) a jump shot.

2. value of the ball on or ball concerned -

by causing:

a) a ball not on to enter a pocket. b) the cue ball to first hit a ball not on. c) a push stroke. d) by striking with a ball not correctly spotted. e) by touching a ball with other than the tip of the cue. f) by forcing a ball off the table.

3. value of the ball on or higher value of the two balls by causing the cue ball to hit simultaneously two balls other than two reds or a "free ball" and the ball on.

4. penalty of seven points is incurred if -

the striker

a) after potting a red commits a foul before nominating a color.

b) uses a ball off the table for any purpose.

c) plays at reds in successive strokes.

d) uses as the cue ball any ball other than the white one.

Markings

The baulk area is marked by a line drawn at 29 in (740 mm) from the bottom cushion. A semicircle with a radius of 11.5 in (290 mm) centred on this line within baulk forms the "D" in which the cue ball must be placed when breaking or after the cue ball has been potted or shot off the table. The position of four of the colours are marked along the long string (lengthwise centre) of the table, perpendicular to the baulk line: the spot, or black spot, 12.75 in (324 mm) from the top cushion; the centre spot, or blue spot, located at the mid-point between the bottom and top cushions; The pyramid spot, or pink spot, located midway between the centre spot and the top cushion; and the brown spot, located at the mid-point of the baulk line. The exact placing of these markings will be different on smaller tables.

DIMENSION

I thought this would be a fairly easy reply, but decided to check my facts first.

The current rules only give the dimensions of the full-sized table, so lets start there. The playing length of the table measures 11ft 8½" or 140½" with an allowed tolerance of plus or minus ½" The baulk-line is 29" from the baulk cushion, which divides into 140½" 4.845 times, so slightly over a fifth. The black spot is 12¾" from the top cushion. Dividing the length by this gives us 11.02, so slightly under an eleventh.

The playing width of the table is 5ft 10" or 70" again with an allowed tolerance of plus or minus ½" The radius of the "D" is 11½" Dividing the width by this gives us 6.087, so

slightly under a sixth.

Wondering why these markings didn't divide exactly I decided to investigate more, and found an interesting paragraph in "The Billiards and Snooker Referees' Handbook" by John Street and Peter Rook (now back in print).

They stated that for a few years until September 1995 there were two distinctly different full-sized tables - one in imperial measurements, and one in metric. But the metric table was abandoned when they found that the measurements of the table markings had been rounded up or down, and this had destroyed the natural half-ball angle of "set-piece" contacts that had been part of the game of English Billiards for decades.

They also stated that the baulk-line was slightly closer to the baulk cushion, at one-fifth of the length of the playing surface, and the black spot also failed to match the imperial measurement.

So the positions of the baulk-line and the black spot are influenced by the half-ball angle used in English billiards. "The Billiards and Snooker Referees' Handbook" also mentions that "At one time a 6ft standard table with scaled down measurements was also included in the rule books."

A copy from the 1968/9 season gives these, and I found that the measurements of the baulk-line and "D" are exactly half those of the full-sized table, at 14½" and 5¾" respectively. But the black spot, surprisingly, is 7" from the top cushion. Not slightly under 6½" which would be half the 12¾" on a full-sized table.

So this is to retain the integrity of the half-ball angle shown in the diagram below.

These natural half-ball angles of "set-piece" contacts only apply to English Billiards, and make little practical difference (if any) to the game of snooker. So the rounded up or down measurements are good enough for all practical purposes, if you disagree simply create your own more accurate measurents.

On to the balls, you are correct in saying that the balls do not decrease in size to the same proportion as the table. If they did I think they would be unplayable. The 1968/9 rules give the ball size for the 6ft table as having a diameter of 1 7/8" only 3/16 smaller than full size. This obviously creates problems of congestion on smaller tables and is usually resolved in the only practical way possible, by reducing the number of reds. On 6 ft or 7 ft tables, six reds may be enough; on 8 or 9 ft ten reds; and 10 ft tables maybe the whole 15, but the choice is yours, experiment and find what suits you best.

It's interesting to note that the Brazilians adapted the game on their 6 ft tables so just one red was used, the rules of which can be found in the Games section.

Taking the problem of undersized tables a step further you made no comment about the pockets. The cushions and pocket size are defined by the size of the ball. If the cushions were made for a smaller ball and you used the full-sized set, you would find the balls jumped every time they rebounded from the cushion.

And here's a comment from Charles Roberts, author of "Billiards at Home" published in the early 1900's.

"As pockets can be made any size on small tables, thus altering any angle, it might pay the Billiard Association to standardize all tables from 6 to 10 feet, then one would know where we are. You see half an inch makes the difference between half-ball and side to any angle, so that whilst on one maker's table certain angles are played at half-ball on another maker's with fairly difficult pockets side would be required."

His comments refer directly to problems in English Billiards on the smaller tables, and again, for clarification, they make little or no difference to the snooker player.

So with no official guidance on marking out smaller tables we have to make our own decisions, and for snooker at least, these rounded up or down measurements are probably good enough for all practical purposes.

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

Tape measure (or ruler) Marker pencil (or pen) Snooker D marking stick Pack of spots (large or small) Screwdriver Chart to snooker table markings

1. 1

Get a copy of a snooker marking chart. There are several Web sites that allow you to print out a 12-foot snooker table diagram, as well as a chart for any other size table you need.

2. 2

Measure out the blue ball center spot. To do so, take your tape measure or your ruler and measure the distance between the two side pockets. Divide this in half, and use your marking pencil to mark a spot in the exact center of the table. Make sure when marking the felt/cloth that the mark is a small cross no bigger than the snooker spots you plan to use. If the marks are bigger than the spots, you will see the markings on the table.

3. 3

Mark the pink ball spot. This is found along the center line of the table (lengthwise). It is halfway between the blue ball center spot and the edge of the table. It also is symmetrical in that if you visualize a line between the corner pocket and the side pocket, and then from the adjacent corner and side pocket, the intersection is where the pink ball spot goes. Mark it the same as the blue ball spot.

4. 4

Mark the black ball spot. This is located along the same center line as the pink ball spot and the blue ball center spot. The size of the table will determine how far from the edge the black ball spot is to be marked. For instance, if the table is a full-sized, 12-foot table, then the black ball spot will go 12 3/4 inches from the edge.

5. 5

Mark the baulk line. This is a solid line along the width of the table. Use your ruler to mark a straight, level line across the table.

6. 6

Mark the brown ball spot along the baulk line where it intersects the center line but on the other half of the slate. Do not draw the lengthwise center line, only draw the line across the width that will be the baulk line.

7. 7

Use your snooker marking stick. This is a pivot tool that has one hole on one side used to pivot the tool around and multiple holes on the other side that are labeled with snooker table lengths. Place your screwdriver into the pivot hole of the tool and hold it snugly, yet directly, on the brown ball spot mark. On the other side of the tool, place your marker in the hole that corresponds to the length of your table. Create a "D" shape (or semi-circle) from the baulk line toward the closest edge.

8. 8

Place a snooker spot on every cross mark that you made. Your goal is to cover the marks you made on the cloth.

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Read more: How to Mark a Snooker Table | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_5683303_mark-snooker-table.html#ixzz10n8BoMDS

Top 10 Tips for looking after your Pool table

If you want to keep your pool table looking and lasting longer then these tips are for you. You can apply these tips to any pool table with any kind of cloth and it will make a difference.

1. Keep your table in a room temperature dry place - (When they mention "dry place" this includes the need for the air not to be moist, this is especially important for tables with mdf playing surfaces. Also when they mention "room temperature" this just means that it is recommended that tables are not kept in cold places and ideally they last longer and play better when they are in an environment YOU would feel comfortable in.).

2. Provide enough space around your table to play shots - (The tighter the space around your table the more likely it is to get damaged, both from a side of the table getting scratched and kicked point of view as well as from a heavy leaning on the table and playing dangerously angled shots into the cloth because of obstacles. You should have as a minimum from the edge of the table, not the playing surface, enough space for the longest cue you use on the table. For measuring up details please see this information on our web site - Room to Table and Cue Size Guide.).

3. You should brush and clean your cloth/baize after every week of use - (You should use a good quality cloth/baize cleaner and table brush to maintain a good looking longer lasting cloth/baize.).

4. You should use a racking cloth every time to rack the balls in the triangle or diamond - (This prevents the abnormal wearing of the cloth in one area of the table, also on speed cloth it can prevent unnecessary bruising of the cloth. To get a racking cloth for your table click here).

5. Using a cover on the table will increase the life of the cloth and maintain the quality of the table - (Covers are available for most table sizes and also come in a couple of different durability's. There are the standard covers, which are just water proof and designed to keep dust and water off the table. Then there are the heavy duty covers that are designed to do the same as the standard covers but also prevent the table from scratching and to an extent any ripping. Both covers are available from our store and either will improve the longevity of your table and it's cloth/baize.).

6. Using the correct colour chalk for your cloth - (The correct colour chalk for your table is a chalk the same colour as the cloth on your table. This helps maintain the quality and aesthetics of the cloth. As every shot taken on a table leaves a certain amount of chalk in the cloth/baize of the table if you were using a red chalk on green cloth/baize then this would ruin the look of the cloth in no time, making it look more worn and used than it actually was.).

7. Have at least one rest for the table - (It is recommended to have a rest for the table especially home tables as this stops players from needing to put large amounts of there body weight on the table to play long shots, which will effect the level of the table and in time the stability.).

8. Make sure the cushions are on tightly - (This is more a tip for slate bedded tables than mdf bed tables. It is good to go round the cushions on your slate bed table once a month or more regularly if needed to check that all the cushion fastenings are tight. If the cushion fastening start to get loose then this will cause the cushions to loose there bounce making it look like the cushion rubbers have perished.).

9. Where possible you should refrain from setting up your pool table on carpet - (Carpet will squash and push off the tables legs causing the level of the table to change as the feet of your table slowly squash down into the carpet at different speeds on all four corners. It is recommended that if you have to put your table on carpet that you use shims to provide a flat point for the feet of the table to sit on. We can supply these though you will need to contact us with your requirements.).

10. You should re-mark and or re-spot your table periodically - (It is recommended that you use D marking sticks and marking pens or pencils along with table spots to maintain the points a lines on your table showing ball placements and restrictions for the game. You can find these parts in our online store.).

Pool table lights installed above the table should be approximately 30 to 32 inches from the table.

Instructions 10 x 5 table

Things You'll Need:

Tape measure Baize chalk Straight edge Ball spot stickers

1. 1

Make a chalk mark on either edge of the playing surface exactly 22.4 inches from the baulk cushion. Mark another fine chalk dot in the middle of the two outer dots and use a straight edge to join all three dots together. The Baulk line for a 10-foot-long table must be 1/5 of the total playing area.

2. 2

Mark a chalk dot for the yellow, brown and green balls on the baulk line. The mathematical equation for working out the distance is to measure the width of the playing area and divide by three. The yellow ball spot will be exactly 1/3 in from the right playing edge. The brown ball will be 2/3 in from the right playing edge and the green ball will be 1/3 in from the left playing edge, leaving equidistant space between all three balls.

3. 3

Mark the "D" on the short side of the baulk line between the baulk line and baulk cushion. The radius must equal 1/6 of the width of the playing surface area. The semi-circle center for the "D" is also the spot upon which the brown ball sits.

4. 4

Measure the length between the center pockets. Divide by two to find the center and mark the spot for the blue ball. The Pink ball spot should be exactly halfway between the blue spot and the bottom cushion. The black ball spot must be 1/11 of the surface area length between the top and bottom cushions. Measure the exact distance between the cushions and divide by 11 for your exact point.

5. 5

Place ball stickers or markers on each of the colored ball spots. There are no markings needed for the red balls, but for placement you should set them so the apex is exactly touching the pink ball when it is on its spot.

Read more: How do I Mark a 5X10 Snooker Table? | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_6941397_do-mark-5x10-snooker-table_.html#ixzz10nC1qDkq

The Basics

You want to play the great game of snooker, but don't know how. It is easier than you think! Well, to get started that is, but how good you become relies on many things. Talent is of course a major ingredient to being good at snooker, however you can still play a good game if you practice hard and are disciplined. Over the next months I will try to help with tips on how to improve your game, from the early stages through to the advanced. Also if any of you out there have questions on playing the game let me know and I will try to help.

Ok, I will assume you have a very basic knowledge in the basic principles of play. The first thing I notice about players who are not very good at snooker is their balance. Balance is a key in any sport, and snooker is no exception. Good balance is obtained by having a good stance.

Now, at this point it is worth mentioning that there have been a few top players who have had a dreadfull stance and still reached the top. The most notorious being of course Alex Higgins. Alex probably had the worst stance in the game, but he could do things on the table which most players can only dream of. But let's not get carried away. Alex and a few other players in the pro game are unusual, and if you really have tried to play in an orthodox way, then and only then should you try to adjust to what suits you. I remember when I used to play snooker every day, I could never keep off of the table. I was lucky that I could arrange my work to enable me to play at least for one hour. I remember when I used to try to change my stance I used to think that if it was a bit uncomfortable then it was not for me. Then I read a book by Steve Davis, and he said that if it felt uncomfortable it did not mean it would not work. He was right I found. Even though it felt wrong, if I carried on, eventually it felt right. Mind you, it did not always improve my game!

To find your balance is the first thing you must do if you want to play snooker. If you are solid on the shot then you will be able to pot with more consistency. The next time snooker is on the TV, watch where the players position their feet. See how the front leg is bent and the back leg is kept straight. This gives a strong base from which to gain that all important balance. The position of the feet is also vital. If your feet are out of line then your whole body will be. For this first part, try to concentrate on the way you stand. Stay down on the shot after you hit the cue ball, until the object ball is sunk (hopefully!). Make a mental note each time you go down on a shot and each time you stand up, of key positions of feet and legs. As an example, if you were potting the blue off of its spot and you were dead in line, stand up and face the way your feet are pointing, and you should be facing roughly 45 degrees away from the object ball. If you follow this as a rough guide then, assuming you are right handed, your left foot should be pointing in the direction of the object ball, but angled slightly outwards, and your right foot should be angled roughly toward the black spot. Over the next few weeks practice how you stand. Do not worry if your game does not improve straight away.

If you play snooker on a regular basis and are getting frustrated because your game never seems to improve, then I will try to help. If you are consistently making breaks of over 30-40 then you are quite a good player. This is a standard which is enjoyable and would probably class you as a good club player. However, there is no reason why you cannot improve your breaks. My biggest problem when I played snooker was that I would be on a big break and

then I would miss the most simple ball. This was caused by me concentrating on the harder shots, but taking the easy ones for granted. Another reason why I missed was because I tried too hard for position and forgot the pot! These problems are very common in club and pro players too. There are things you can do to improve.

Firstly, when you are playing for position, make up your mind how you are going to get on the next ball and position the tip of the cue accordingly. The last thing you should be thinking about before you strike the cue ball is the pot. In fact, all of your efforts should be on making the ball go down, because if your technique is good then your tip should have struck the cue ball where you decided and the cue ball should go roughly where you wanted. If this is not the case then you have not struck the cue ball where you intended. This means you probably moved on the shot or your stance was wrong, or both. In any case, if the object ball is sunk and you are out of position, you can at least play safe! A good safety shot is sometimes better than a pot. Over the next few weeks concentrate on the pot more than your position. If you practice on your own try this exercise out:

Place all of the colours on their spots, then try to clear them. But each time you pot one, bring it straight back up. When you have sunk the black, play for position on the yellow and start all over again. See how many times you can pot the colours.

My record was three times and I missed the black on my fourth, however the pro Mark King managed eleven!

I used to hang around the players practice room, and I had the pleasure of watching Alain Robidoux, Jim Wych and Cliff Thorburn challenging other players by setting trick shots for them. Here is one of my favourites.

Place a red about four inches out from each pocket then invite a friend to try and pot all of the balls without missing, however you tell him which ball to pot each time he plays.

Striking the Ball

Hi there!

Well, judging by the amount of mail I have recieved some of you obviously enjoyed my first lesson. Unfortunately I am not set up yet to publish graphics but I am working on it. My first lesson worked mainly on the stance. This time I would like to talk about striking the ball. It is very important to hit the ball straight, but it is also equally important to time the ball. This is

to say that you strike the ball at the time you are supposed to. To achieve good timing is to strike the ball sweetly. Many shots can be missed just because your cue action is all out of time.

The next time you go to play start by placing the white on the brown spot and fire it in line down the table across the spots, hitting the back cushion, and try to get it to return and hit your cue tip. This exercise is of course reliant on a good table. However, you must strike the ball at a reasonable pace to stop the ball turning on the nap. The idea of this exercise is to make sure that you are hitting the ball dead centre. If you reach a good rythym and are more successfull than not, stop after ten minutes. Now do the same exercise again, but this time try to imagine that the white is not there. In other words forget that you are striking the white - just cue through the ball. When the ball has left the cue, see how far your cue extends past where the white started its journey. You should be looking for a minimum of about 6 Inches. If you exceed this, it is ok. Using this follow through technique is the way to hit the ball cleanly. Imagine you are trying to push your cue down a long thin pipe and your room for error is small, then use your cue like a gun, line it up and fire.

Some players often use a mark in the grain to give them a guide, but I prefer to follow my eye line right through to the tip. In coming lessons I will be giving tips on how to screw back with real power, but this guide will help in that department also. You do not have to hit a ball hard to screw back a long way if you time it well. Now when you have practiced for a while, place the blue on its spot and the white in line with it diagonally so it is a dead straight pot. Be about two feet behind it. Now line up the shot as normal, but this time when you strike the ball, imagine the white is not there. Cue through the ball with a nice extension on the follow through. Try to stay on the shot until the blue is sunk. Get used to staying on the shot as this will help with your stance.

For The More Advanced

The exercise above, although written for beginners, also applies to the more advanced players. However, you can try to be more adventurous. When you line up the blue on its spot as detailed above, try screwing back the white into the opposite pocket and then try following through in to the same pocket. Keep repeating this and moving the white away from the blue. In the end you have to try and pot the blue off of its spot from the jaws of the pocket and get the white to follow through and go in off. If you can perform this successfully I believe you would have no problem with your cueing. Do not bother trying to screw back and go in off from the jaw!

As stated above it is a good idea to stay on the shot and watch the object ball drop, even the more advanced players often jump up on the shot and ruin their cue action. One small tip for the more advanced player is when you are playing from tight on the cushion there is a tendency to cue down on the ball. Try not to do this too much. Try to lower your cue arm so that you strike along the ball more. This may seem hard and you may miscue more at first, but if your action is good you can achieve this. It helps the white leave the tip more cleanly and stops ball bounce. This exercise also helps with your timing.

Fun Stuff

Place two balls touching over each pocket 3 inches away from the bag. Make sure they are dead in line like a plant or a set. Now you can place the white where you like. See how many shots you can sink all twelve balls in.

You will find it is much harder than it looks. The trick is to use screw back when you hit the ball and try to be quite straight. The screw will often make both balls drop at the same time. This can be used as a challenge to a friend and is a good way to earn a few bucks.

Some of you wrote me and said you enjoyed the exercise of clearing the colours. Well, here is a variation:

Place the colours on the spots and pot yellow, black, green, black, brown, black and so on, ending with black, black, then start again.

This exercise is very hard and is a very good way of practicing going up and down the table without getting bored.

Please remember that these tips will not work for everyone. Some players have very unorthodox styles, some just may be different. Mind you, do not be put off just because something feels uncomfortable. Give everything a good try before you decide that it does not work for you.

Potting

For Beginners

So, after my first two lessons you can stand right and hit the ball straight. All you have to do now is pot balls! Knowing how to pot a ball is something you either have or you do not have. Of course practice can help but you really need an eye for it. When walking to the table after your opponent has missed it seems he has left you an easy pot on a straight red followed by an easier black. You get down and miss the red! How frustrating. I have done this so many times and so do many people.

There are some things you can do to correct this problem. When walking to the table always walk in to the shot, never approach the table and then slide round to the shot. This is so you see the real angle of the shot. Also when you are playing position for the next ball remember that although it is important to get position, the worst position you can end up in is in your chair, watching your opponent! Work out the angle for the pot decide your position, but the last thing you think of is pot pot pot. That is to say that if you at least pot the ball and run out of position you can still play safe. When playing snooker for the first time do not try to go all out to beat an opponent. Try out different things, even if you try things in practice they still end up different in a match.

Playing snooker is all in the head. If you are confident then you play better. Be positive, make your mind up what shot and play it 110%. A question I am asked many times is what ball do you look at when you strike the white. The answer is always the object ball. This is always for every player. You do not look at the white or the end of your tip, just the cue ball. In fact if you look at Hendry if he is trying to pot a vital ball, he will often watch the ball until it reaches the pocket. This also helps him stay down on the shot. Mind you though, Hendry is

one of a few players who, although he looks at the object ball last, watch his eyes when he is cueing up. He keeps looking at the object pocket as well.

As a routine for this lesson place a Red about two feet from one of the black holes, leaving the black on its spot. Then try to pot the red and vary the shot between making it back to baulk and staying for the black. This shot is one of the most common you will come across. Especially after a player has broken off. To be good at snooker you must play shots like this in practice time after time. Another routine is to see how many times you can pot the black without missing and without moving the white between shots.

Advanced

Being good at snooker is a real pleasure. After all you practice hard, you reach a good standard and the game is so enjoyable. However, so many good players I have seen over the years always practice on the same table week in week out, day after day. They used to call this onetableitis years ago. These players, who never play on a different table, often try to play in tournaments around the country and find it very hard to win. It is vital to play on different tables. Of course it is good to play a lot on one table because it can give you confidence but you must get used to playing on all types of tables and conditions.

Players often write to me saying they have reached the 70-80 standard and do not seem to be getting any better no matter how hard they practice. This is very common because at this stage any improvement is a little at a time and to be honest there are many who give up at this stage. To be a champion is not just about talent, it is about dedication and determination. If they get through these times and succeed in making their first century, many players feel they have made it. Wrong! I have seen many players who can make centuries who do not win anything, it is consistency which wins. If you make Eighty break after Eighty break you can be a winner. Last season Mark King reached a world final losing to Hendry. Up to then he had only scored one century break in the later stages of a tournament which was 102. This season he is ranked No 20. You see some people are obsessed with making centuries. It is winning which counts. Of course some players get to the point of making Eighty breaks and go no further no matter how hard they work, and of course this is because of ability. You either have it or you do not.

If you compete in tournaments you should be taking them very seriously. For instance if you are playing on the weekend at a club in another area, make sure you prepare yourself. Phone the club and see if you can practice before you play, if not, if it is possible travel down the day before and practice then, as most clubs will allow this. The night before your first match go to bed early unless you are playing late, then go to be later and get up later. Do not get up with hardly any time before you play. Give yourself plenty of time to wake up or you will be waking up to a nightmare. Do not eat a big meal before a match as this will sap your energy. Treat any match big or small in all tournaments with the same importance, you are either a winner or you are not.

As a routine this week try to place yourself in a position with say eight reds left on the table and all the colours on their spots. Then try to see how high a break you can make without touching a cushion. Then vary the exercise to only hitting plain ball but hitting cushions. Then try using no cushions and only plain ball! These exercises may seem pointless but they serve the purpose of using angles. Without the knowledge of angles you will never win. Did you know that John Spencer was a snooker genius when he was a teenager but had not made

a century. Then someone (I forget who) taught him to play billiards. The rest is history as they say.