Rome on the rise

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Houston Chronicle | Sunday, April 13, 2014 | HoustonChronicle.com and Chron.com @HoustonChron Houston Chronicle Section L ROME, Italy — Visitors to Rome often approach the city with what you might call a Julius Caesar attitude: “Veni, vidi, vici,” they say. “I came, I saw, I conquered.” Colosseum? Check. Imperial Forum? Check. Coins tossed in the Trevi Fountain, neck cramps suered at the Sistine Chapel, scoops of gelato eaten in front of the Pantheon? Check. Check. Double check. And then they’re out. There’s good reason for this, of course. Not for nothing is Rome called the Eternal City — for the most part, it seems to stay eternally the same. So why change the itinerary from the greatest hits tour your parents did in 1967, or even the one your grand-touring ancestors did in 1767? But Rome is a place in flux these days. The city has seen two popes in as many years and three prime ministers in the last 18 months. And that’s just the beginning. Despite the economic crisis that continues to linger in Italy in general and in Rome in particular — or perhaps because of it — there’s innovation aplenty to be found here. Exciting just-opened hotels and novel restaurants impress with their style and design; rising neighborhoods and forward-thinking individuals demand attention; and even the old is new again, as ancient and recently uncovered historical sights have opened to the public for the first time. Today, getting to know the city is all about going deeper, feeling more adventurous and veering much further o the typical tourist path. Here are seven insider tips for making the most of Rome right now. Rome on the rise Big changes are remaking the Eternal City — here’s a cheat sheet for what’s new in the Caput Mundi right now By Andrew Sessa DESTINATION Andrew Sessa photo ESCAPES TRAVEL & HOME Top: The domes and rooftops of Rome in silhouette, includ- ing the spiraling tower of Sant’Ivo alla Spaienza and St. Peter’s Basilica. Above: A suite at the chic new D.O.M Hotel. Marco Bertani / D.O.M. Hotel INSIDER’S GUIDE Rome continues on L4 GEAR Hoodiebuddie headphone/ microphone jacket microphone jacket Here’s a utilitarian piece Here’s a utilitarian piece of clothing that solves of clothing that solves a couple of problems a couple of problems for travelers: the annoying tangle of headphone chords, and the worry of carrying your smartphone visibly on foreign streets. The HB “Base” sweatshirt “Base” sweatshirt has integrated headphones and microphone built into microphone built into the draw-strings of the zip-up’s hood. You hide your phone or music player into a zippered side pocket that has its own plug-in jack, and make calls while talk- ing into your cu like a secret agent. It is comfy and durable, and the mic and headphones still work perfectly after put- ting it through the wash a couple times. Why we like it: Why we like it: An An aordable and warm, stealth way to carry headphones and a microphone while traveling. Not so much: People tend to look at you funny when you have your hood draw-strings stuck in your ears. Vitals: $71.40 at shop. hoodiebuddie.com Bill Fink Hoodiebuddie Colombe and Marcelo have arguably the best backyard in Houston. The 9- and 5-year-old children, along with their par- ents, Matt Emal and Shannon Langrand, live on the 24th floor of One Park Place, the high-rise just across the street from Dis- covery Green. “The expected route in Houston is that after you have kids you move to a cul-de-sac in the suburbs, but that just wasn’t us,” said Langrand. The married couple, who own advertising and marketing agency Langrand & Co., didn’t expect to become a family of urban dwellers. They bought a historic house in the Heights in 2002, but after 11 years and two Johnny Hanson / Houston Chronicle Former Heights residents Matt Emal and Shannon Langrand, with kids Colombe and Marcelo, traded their home for an apartment at One Park Place. A di erent point of view Bucking tradition, a Houston family of four sold their Heights home to create an artful, high-rise abode in downtown By Sarah Rufca HOME DESIGN Home continues on L5 WEEKEND GETAWAY An afternoon antiquing and eating in Fayetteville. Page L2

Transcript of Rome on the rise

Houston Chronicle | Sunday, April 13, 2014 | HoustonChronicle.com and Chron.com@HoustonChronHouston Chronicle Section L

ROME, Italy —Visitors to Romeoften approach the city with what youmight call a Julius Caesar attitude: “Veni,vidi, vici,” they say. “I came, I saw, Iconquered.”

Colosseum? Check. Imperial Forum?Check. Coins tossed in the Trevi Fountain, neckcramps su�ered at the Sistine Chapel, scoopsof gelato eaten in front of the Pantheon? Check.Check. Double check. And then they’re out.

There’s good reason for this, of course. Not fornothing is Rome called the Eternal City — for themost part, it seems to stay eternally the same. Sowhy change the itinerary from the greatest hitstour your parents did in 1967, or even the oneyour grand-touring ancestors did in 1767?

But Rome is a place in flux these days. The cityhas seen two popes in as many years and three

primeministers in the last 18 months.And that’s just the beginning.

Despite the economic crisisthat continues to linger in Italy ingeneral and in Rome in particular— or perhaps because of it — there’s

innovation aplenty to be found here.Exciting just-opened hotels and novel

restaurants impress with their style and design;rising neighborhoods and forward-thinkingindividuals demand attention; and even the oldis new again, as ancient and recently uncoveredhistorical sights have opened to the public for thefirst time.

Today, getting to know the city is all aboutgoing deeper, feeling more adventurous andveering much further o� the typical tourist path.Here are seven insider tips for making the mostof Rome right now.

Rome on the rise

Big changes are remaking the Eternal City — here’s a cheat sheet

for what’s new in the Caput Mundi right now

By Andrew Sessa

DESTINATION

Andrew Sessa photo

ESCAPES TRAVEL& HOME

Top: The domes and rooftops of Rome in silhouette, includ-ing the spiraling tower of Sant’Ivo alla Spaienza and St. Peter’sBasilica. Above: A suite at the chic new D.O.MHotel.

Marco Bertani / D.O.M. Hotel

INSIDER’S

GUIDE

Rome continues on L4

GEAR

Hoodiebuddie headphone/

microphone jacketmicrophone jacket

Here’s a utilitarian pieceHere’s a utilitarian piece of clothing that solvesof clothing that solves a couple of problemsa couple of problems for travelers: theannoying tangleof headphonechords, and theworry of carryingyour smartphonevisibly on foreignstreets. The HB“Base” sweatshirt“Base” sweatshirt has integratedheadphones andmicrophone built intomicrophone built into the draw-strings of thezip-up’s hood. You hideyour phone or musicplayer into a zipperedside pocket that has itsown plug-in jack, andmake calls while talk-ing into your cu� like asecret agent. It is comfyand durable, and the micand headphones stillwork perfectly after put-ting it through the washa couple times.

Why we like it:Why we like it: An An a�ordable and warm,stealth way to carryheadphones and amicrophone whiletraveling.

Not so much: Peopletend to look at youfunny when you haveyour hood draw-stringsstuck in your ears.

Vitals: $71.40 at shop.hoodiebuddie.com

Bill Fink

Ho

od

ieb

ud

die

Colombe andMarcelo havearguably the best backyard inHouston. The 9- and 5-year-oldchildren, alongwith their par-ents,Matt Emal and ShannonLangrand, live on the 24th floorof One Park Place, the high-risejust across the street fromDis-covery Green.

“The expected route inHouston is that after you havekids youmove to a cul-de-sac inthe suburbs, but that just wasn’tus,” said Langrand.

Themarried couple, whoown advertising andmarketingagency Langrand&Co., didn’texpect to become a family ofurban dwellers. They bought ahistoric house in theHeights in2002, but after 11 years and two

Johnny Hanson / Houston Chronicle

FormerHeights residentsMatt Emal and Shannon Langrand, with kidsColombe andMarcelo, traded their home for an apartment at One Park Place.

A di�erent point of viewBucking tradition, a Houston family of four sold their Heights home to

create an artful, high-rise abode in downtown

By Sarah Rufca

HOME DESIGN

Home continues on L5

WEEKEND GETAWAY

An afternoonantiquing

and eating inFayetteville.

Page L2

L4 | Sunday, April 13, 2014 | Houston Chronicle | HoustonChronicle.com and chron.com xxx

[DINING]Nibble aroundthe edges

Some of the most excit-ing new spots to eat inRome these days are wellbeyond the well-trod his-toric center. All you needto experience them is cabfare — or a willingness tobrave public transporta-tion— and a sense of ad-venture. A good appetitewon’t hurt, either.

InMonte VerdeVecchio, you’ll findCesare al Casaletto(Via del Casaletto, 45;+39-06-536-015). It’s beenin business since the1960s but for the last fewyears run by LeonardoVignoli, whose passionfor carefully sourcedregional ingredients,long-forgotten Romanrecipes and all-naturalwines shines through ineverything he does.

More recently openedare two spots in the city’sfar east. In nightlife-savvy Pigeto, one ofRome’s most on-the-riseneighborhoods,Mazzo,the Fooders (Via delleRose, 54; thefooders.it) — a bricks-and-mortar iteration of apopular former pop-up— specializes in small-bites and craft beers.Pro Loco Dol (ViaDomenico Panaroli,35; dioriginelaziale.it),in evenmore far-flungCentocelle, doubles asa restaurant and deli-like specialty food shop,serving giant boards oflocal cured meats andcheeses and wood-firedpizzas with intriguingtoppings, plus a smalland frequently changingassortment of pastas,mains and vegetables.

Heading south of thecity center to the Testaccioarea, you’ll encountertheNuovoMercato diTestaccio (Via Galvani,57), a covered market nearformer cattle stockyards,which themselves nowhouse a branch of thecity’s contemporaryMACROmuseum.Nearby, try theCittàdell’altra Economia(Largo Dino Frisullo;cittadellaltraeconomia.org), a foodie destinationcomprising a simpleco�ee bar; an organicfood store; a weekendoutdoor organic market;and Stazione di Posta(stazionediposta.eu), arestaurant that plays withtraditional dishes.

Farther south, in Gar-batella, there’s the hugeRoman outpost ofEataly(Piazzale XII Ottobre1492; roma.eataly.it), thepan-Italian specialty-food hall and restaurantcomplex that got its startin Turin and now, inpartnership withMarioBatali, has U.S. branchesin NewYork and Chicago.Another option isPortoFluviale (Via del PortoFluviale, 22; portofluviale.com), a buzzing, subway-tiled, all-day dining spotserving casual Italiandishes, with an emphasison the tapaslike Venetiansnacks called cicchetti, inits lounge, bar, trattoriaand pizzeria.

Trapizzino (PiazzalePonte Milvio, 13;trapizzino.it) is worth adetour up north to PonteMilvio. It’s an order-at-the-counter joint, servingthe novel snack food fromwhich it takes its name:a triangular bit of pizzadough stu�ed with heartyfillings such as shreddedbits of chicken cacciatora,meatballs in red sauceor zucchini and eggplantParmesan.

Beyond o�cialrestaurants, Rome has abudding pop-up diningscene.The Eatery(theeateryinrome.com)hit the ground runningthis winter with semi-monthly, four-course,locally procureddinners that combinethe backgrounds of itscreators, an Italian-born sous chef at theAmerican Academy inRome and his Danishpastry-chef girlfriend.

Meanwhile, in addition toconducting market toursand leading lunchtimecooking demonstrations,self-described “foodinterpreter”EleonoraGalasso (eleonoragalasso.com) hosts Italian-focuseddinners once or twice amonth at her three-suiteLa Regola 67 hotel.

[HOTELS]Sleep in stylishnew stays

After what seemedlike ages without a newhotel of note, Romehas welcomed a pairof perfectly appointed,aesthetically mindedboutique spots.

A stone’s throw fromthe Spanish Steps, pastthe west end of high-end shopping mecca Viadei Condotti, sits J.K.Place Roma (from €540per night, Via di Monted’Oro, 30; jkroma.com),the months-old sisterproperty of the belovedJ.K. hotels in Florence andCapri.

Here, Florence-basedarchitect Michele Bönanand consummate host

and hotelier Ori Kafrihave created a residential-feeling home-away-from-home that takes itscinematic, midcenturymodern cues fromFederico Fellini’s “LaDolce Vita” and TomFord’s “A Single Man.” Inaddition to 30 rosewood-paneled, marble-bathedand smartly appointedrooms and suites,the hotel has a livingroomlike lobby, book-lined library and bistrocafé. An alfresco rooftoplounge is expected to bowthis summer.

A block o� the TiberRiver, meanwhile, ateam of chic natives haveopened the noir-feelingD.O.MHotel (from €400per night, Via Giulia,131; domhotelroma.com) in a 17th-centuryformer monastery on thevery aristocratic streetVia Giulia. Combininginfluences gothic andcontemporary, Art Decoand Hollywood regency,its 24 rooms, clubby bar,lounge-like restaurantand sun-soaked rooftopterrace all o�er a sexyboudoir feel.

[RETAIL]Mount ashoppingexcursion toMonti

It feels of late like everymajor high-fashion Italianlabel has launched or re-launched a flagship nearthe Spanish Steps, withBulgari, BrunoMagli,MaxMara, Pucci andVersace all now newly inplace, and Valentino soonopening a massive storenext to its headquartersjust o� Piazza di Spagna.

For a more under-the-radar retail experience,however, those inthe know head to theneighborhood of Monti,just south over theQuirinal Hill from thehistoric center. Here, onthe parallel streets of Viadei Serpenti and Via delBoschetto, as well as ViaPanisperna and othersrunning perpendicular,you’ll find a fleet ofartisanal and one-of-a-kind items, as well as thevintage and unknown.

Among the newestarrivals are the jewelryshop Lo Scrigno di

Valentina (Via deiSerpenti, 135), wheredesigner ValentinaPacifici createscontemporary cameos,some incorporatingskull and bone motifs,as well as more classicallooking pieces usingprecious metals, coraland turquoise. Nearby,WowBar (Via delBoschetto, 123; wowbar-shop.com), a spino� ofMonti’s popular Gallinellewomen’s boutiques,does casual pieces plusbrightly colored andpatterned shirts of its ownproduction.

In addition to thelinens, rugs and jewelryit imports from Turkey,Fondaco dei Turchi(Via degli Zingari,12; fondacodeiturchi.com) has a selection ofItalian cashmere anddeconstructed-looking,all-black women’s wearfrom local micro-labelFRI.DA. Slightly olderis women’s vintage shopBlue Goose (Via delBoschetto, 4; +39-06-4890-6738), o�ering a mixof midrange and high-endItalian labels, and Le

Talpe (Via Panisperna222a; le-talpe.it), whoseeclectic mix of jewelry,art and fashion changesfrequently.

If you need a shoppingbreak, grab a co�ee atthe months-old café LaCasettta (Via Madonnadei Monti, 62) or a snackat the equally newDall’Anto (Via Madonnadei Monti, 16; dallanto.com), a bakery focusingon delicious breads andsnacks made from ancienttypes of wheat as well aschestnut and chickpeaflours.

[NIGHTLIFE]Qua� craft beerand cocktails

Having swept throughmost major Americancities, not to mentionLondon, Paris, Tokyo andbeyond, the crazes forlocal artisanal beers andartfully made cocktailshave finally hit Rome.

Settembrini Birra(Via CiroMenotti, 32;viasettembrini.com), inthe northern reaches ofthe Prati neighborhood,is among the latest brewbars to join more long-standing and centrallylocated beer bastionslike the cavernousOpenBaladin—with 20 to 30beers on tap plus 100-plusmore in bottles — andsmallerNo.Au.

For harder drinks,the reservations-only,password-protectedJerry Thomas Project(Vicolo Cellini, 30;thejerrythomasproject.it) gives the city what maywell be its first bar withreal speakeasy style.

Although largelyfocused on naturalwines, Litro (Via FratelliBonnet, 5; vinerialitro.it) in the Gianicolo Hillarea also specializesin tipples made withmezcal.The Gin Corner(Via di Pallacorda, 2;hoteladriano.com), as itsname suggests, focuseson sips made from thedistilled-juniper spirit;from the folks behindBarnum, a pioneer inRome’s classic cocktailscene, it sits in the HotelAdriano.

Two others with hotelconnections areCo.So.in Pigneto (Via BracciodaMontone, 80) whosemixologist comes from thetip-top bar at the ultra-posh Hotel de Russie,and 0° 300° Cold andGrill (Via del Vantaggio,14; ristorantealloro.it),where creative drinks canbe paired with food by aMichelin-starred chef. Itfills the rooftop terrace ofthe historic center’s FirstHotel and o�ers some ofthe best 360-degree viewsin town.

New dining, lodging and shopping options around RomeRome from page L1

In Rome’s Garbatella area there’s the huge outpost of Eataly, the pan-Italian specialty-food hall and restau-rant complex that got its start in Turin and now, in partnership with Mario Batali, has branches in the U.S.

The Eatery’s SofieWochner andDomenico Corteseo�er a semi-monthly, locavore-savvy pop-up dinners.

All-day dining spot Porto Fluviale serves casual Ital-ian dishes, especially Venetian snacks or cicchetti.

The months-old J.K. Place Roma hotel has 30 rosewood-paneled, marble-bathedand smartly appointed rooms and suites.

The D.O.MHotel is in a17th-century monastery.

If you goGETTING THEREThere’s no nonstopcommercial flight to Romefrom Houston, but flightswith one stop to Rome’sLeonard da Vinci-FiumicinoAirport (FCO) from IAHstart from about $1,200and are available on AirFrance, Alitalia, BritishAirways, Delta, KLM andUnited.

GETTING AROUND

Rome is a walking citymore than anything else,and you’d be remiss ifyou don’t explore onfoot, even if you getlost now and again. Theunderground metro’stwo easy-to-navigatelines hit many of the toptourist sites, however, anda single ticket, good for100 minutes, costs €1.50,with daily tickets availablefor €6. Both cover notonly the metro, but alsothe extensive (thoughconsiderably more opaque)bus and tram systems. Intown, reasonably well-priced cabs can be hailedbut are best found atplentiful taxi stands. Cabsfrom the airport to the citycenter have a fixed rate of€48, and the air train fromFCO to Termini, the maintrain station, costs €14.

The Gin Corner in Rome, as its name suggests, fo-cuses on sips made from the distilled-juniper spirit.

0° 300° Cold and Grill fills the roof terrace of the his-toric center’s First Hotel and boasts great city views.

Rome continues on L6

0° 300° Cold and Grill

J.K. Place Roma

The Gin Corner

Porto FluvialeGerardo Gaetani

Eataly

Marco Bertani

L6 | Sunday, April 13, 2014 | Houston Chronicle | HoustonChronicle.com and chron.com xxx

[PILGRIMAGE]

Rediscover the

Vatican

Holy Father-turned-interna-tional rock star Pope Francis—Papa Francesco in Italian— isn’tthe only new thing remaking theVatican, which expects a crowdof up to 5million pilgrims for thecanonizations of popes John PaulII and JohnXXIII onApril 27.

The Vatican Museums (VialeVaticano; mv.vatican.va) havedebuted or re-opened severalnew spaces in the past 18 months,including the Profane Museum,whose cache of small 17th- and18th-century objets such ascameos, glass pieces, ivories andbronze statuettes are displayedin the gallery’s original ornateBrazilian-wood cabinets, andthe Carriage Pavilion, whichshows o� how papal modes oftransportation have evolved overthe years.The Vatican Histori-

cal Museum, which sits abovethe Carriage Pavilion, will soonemerge from its own reorganiza-tion and renovation.

Also part of themuseums butrequiring a separate ticket andguided tour, theVia Triumpha-

lis Necropoliswas unveiled thiswinter after a 60-year excavation,revealing a fascinating and expan-sive burial site, used from the 1st

century B.C. until the 4th A.D andfilled with sarcophagi, statues,mosaics and frescoes.

Want to stay close to the HolySee? Next month, Small LeadingHotels is debuting the nine-suiteL’Angolo di San Pietro (from€580 per night, Via StazioneVaticana, 1; langolodisanpietro.it),located in an early-20th-centuryformer Catholic guesthouse onlyslightly beyond the southernwallsof Vatican City. The nearby butmuch largerGranMeliá Rome

(from €475 per night, Via delGianicolo, 3; melia.com), whoseoutdoor pool and gardensmake itunique, debuted two years ago in acenturies old ex-convent.

[SITES]

Venture underground

A pair of ancient sites, onlynewly open to the public, invitehistory bu�s to descend throughthe ages, going underground to goback in time.

What is today the oval-shapedPiazza Navona sits atop a stadiumoriginally built in the 1st centuryA.D. by Emperor Domitian. Now,after extensive excavation, a pieceof the complex’s below-street-level ruins have opened as theStadio di Domizianomuseum

(stadiodomiziano.com), show-ing o� the structure’s impressivetravertine archways, columnsand staircases in all their glory.

ThroughMay 4, the museum’stemporary galleries will exhibitphotographs of Pope John Paul II,some never before seen.

Elsewhere in the city, on theedge of the Villa Ada park, thenewly revealedCatacombs

of Priscilla (Via Salaria, 430;catacombepriscilla.com) compriseeight miles of 2nd-to-5th-centuryburial chambers and galleries,including the tombs of manyearly Christian martyrs and somebeautifully restored frescoes.

[SIDE TRIPS]

Get out of town

Those looking for a relaxinglittle day trip will find a perfectdestination in Fiorano (Via diFioranello, 34; fattoriadifiorano.it), a 20-minute drive or90-minute bike ride from thecenter of town along the AppianWay. Alessia Antinori, whoserenowned and aristocratic wine-making family has held thisacreage for centuries, created asmall organic farm, winery andcafé that opened in September,o�ering a table-to-farmexperience for city-weary localsand visitors alike.

Further afield, but an easyovernight, is the 12-room La

Bandita Townhouse (from €195per night; 111 Corso Rossellino;labanditatownhouse.com), whichopened last Easter in a 15th-century former convent in thepicture-perfect medieval hilltoptown of Pienza, about a two-hourdrive from Rome.

Sitting in the rolling hillsof southern Tuscany’s Vald’Orcia, the Townhouse o�erseasy access to the nearby winecapitals of Montalcino andMontepulciano, with their OldWorld tasting rooms and ancientarchitecture. But the hotel’shands-on American ownersand operators — a former musicindustry executive and his writerwife, whose first La Banditaouting, a converted farmhousejust outside of Pienza, wonraves — have also injected somehighly contemporary cool to itsdowntown-loft décor, as well as tothe modern Tuscanmenus at itsrestaurant.

Latest Roman sites and side trips

Fiorano, a 20-minute drive from central Rome, is a small organic

farm, winery and cafe. It would make a great side trip.

Francesco Orini

Andrew Sessa is a freelance writerliving in Rome.

Rome from page L4

Commerce Towers: 3bed/2½ bathapartment inthe heart ofdowntownis nearly

3,200 square feet and hasfeatures such as crownmolding, granite counters,and recessed lighting inter-mixed with 18-foot ceilingsin the 700-foot living room,which is adjacent to a loftedbedroom and study space;$1,390,000

Rise Lofts: On the livelyedge of Mid-town, thiscontemporary3 bed/2 bathapartment

is one of four penthouseunits on the 15th floor. It has2,359 square feet, includinga 742-square-foot terrace,plus a gourmet kitchen,15-foot ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows withunobstructed views of thecity; $869,000

Warehouse District: Builtin 2005, this 4bedroom/3½bath town-house has a4,800 square

feet, downtown views andseveral large glass-blockwindows that provide bothnatural light and privacy;$645,000

St. Germain: Hardwoodfloors, exposedduct workand a wall ofwindows givean urban feel

to this 1,764-square-foot, 2bath/2 bath loft, which alsoincludes a study nook andwalk-in closets; $325,000

Franklin Lofts: 1 bed/1bath apart-ment boasts afunctional lay-out that maxi-mizes the unit’s

1,117 square feet, includinga 15-foot walk-in closet inaddition to exposed brickand cement walls, 15-footceilings and a chalkboardbacksplash; $234,900

Bayou Lofts: Exposedbrick pairswith modernstainless steelappliancesand high-

end bathroom surfaces inthis open 1 bed/1 bath loftapartment with 913 squarefeet, a small balcony andnorth-facing views of Buf-falo Bayou; $224,900

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