Riviera delle Palme - Italienska Statens Turistbyrå · of the Riviera delle Palme and to realize...

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- Borgio Verezzi - Loano - Pietra Ligure- Toirano

Il Loanese& Il Pietrese

Azienda diPromozioneTuristicaRiviera delle Palmewww.inforiviera.ite-mail: [email protected]

Head officeAlassio (17021)Viale Gibb, 26tel. 0182 647 11fax 0182 644 690

Information and TouristReception Offices - I.A.T.

Borghetto Santo Spirito (17052)Piazza Libertà, 1tel. e fax 0182 950 784e-mail: [email protected]

Borgio Verezzi (17022)seasonalVia Matteotti, 158tel. e fax 019 610 412e-mail: [email protected]

Loano (17025)Corso Europa, 19tel. 019 676 007fax 019 676 818e-mail: [email protected]

Pietra Ligure (17027)Piazza Martiri della Libertà, 30tel. 019 629 003fax 019 629 790e-mail: [email protected]

Toirano (17055)Piazzale Grottetel. 0182 989 938fax 0182 984 63e-mail: [email protected]

Borghetto Santo Spirito

Borgio Verezzi

Loano

Pietra Ligure

Toirano

Val Maremola

Val Varatella

COPERTINA LOANESE ING 5-06-2006 15:48 Pagina 2

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he short arc of land and sea between Borgio Verezzi andBorghetto Santo Spirito epitomisesall that Liguria has to offer itsinhabitants and the would-be localswho love it so: crystal-clear seas,sandy beaches, ancient seasidevillages and modern facilities andamenities for a fun-packed holiday.Waiting to be discovered a stone'sthrow from the sea lie green valleyscarpeted with olive groves and pinetrees, and prehistoric caves whichwere home to the very first Ligurians:modern-day visitors to the caves atBorgio and Toirano never fail to bemesmerised by the unexpectednatural spectacle which lies in waitfor them.Lovers of open-air sports andsweeping panoramas will savourthe high mountain scenery andexhilarating excursions, with visitsto welcoming homesteads wherethey can taste and buy olive oils,local foods and wines which cannotbe found on the supermarket shelf.The area around Loano and PietraLigure offers holiday-makers no endof entertainments, internationalfestivals and dialect theatre seasons,cool summer nights in countryvillages, popular feast days withdelicious treats made from wildmushrooms and fresh vegetables.While this part of the Riviera iswonderful all year round, it reallycomes into its own betweenSeptember and June, when theclimate is mild and the beaches areless crowded; it is no coincidencethat tourism first began here in thewinter, at the turn of the 20thcentury, when English and Germantourists came to soak up the sunand escape the fogs and mists ofthe north. These rich, aristocraticglobetrotters paved the way for thevisitors who flock to the Riviera diPietra e di Loano from Milan, Turin,Germany and Holland to savoursun-drenched, fun-packedvacations.

ealthy eating, healthy living, sleeping al frescoWhen we're packed into our crowdedcity streets, stuck in traffic jams, orcrushed into buses and trains, wewould all like to live as they do in theadverts, where families eat breakfastout in the fresh country air with happy,relaxed smiles on their faces and nota trace of the Monday morning bluesin sight.Life isn't like that in the real world. Butwe can get closer to our ideal bystaying on one of the homesteadsinland of Pietra and Loano, perhapsamong the olive groves at Toirano orGiustènice, or in a 15th century palazzoin the heart of Tovo San Giacomo,revelling in the sheer pleasure ofsleeping amidst green fields a fewkilometres from the sea.The towns along the coast are ideal ifyou want to dance the night away orsip cocktails on the seafront; but if youprefer to rest on your holidays, to seekout peace and quiet and the forgottenflavours of traditional foods...While you are here, take the chanceto taste the olive oils, wine, fruit andvegetables which local farmers producefor connoisseurs.All in all you will be glad you chose theRiviera delle Palme for your vacation.All year round lovers of excursions canenjoy breathtaking itineraries which runright along the edge of the sea, andwooded tracks which take them to thetops of mountains: to help them alongtheir way, the APT Riviera delle Palmehas produced special walkers' maps,copies of which can be picked up fromall IAT tourist offices.

tt ww

© 2001, APT Riviera delle Palme - AlassioEditorial content:

M&R Comunicazione - GenovaText: Gian Antonio Dall’Aglio

Translation: Ginevra MarchianiGraphics and illustrations: Studio Gioberti - Albenga

Photos: APT Riviera delle Palme Archives;M&R Archives; Gian Antonio Dall’Aglio;

Flavio Furlani; Fabrizio Gioberti; Roberto Merlo;Gianni Ottonello; Stefano Piola;

Andrea Siri; Luigi StrataPrinted by: M.Sabatelli Ed. - SV

1

A double name for a double village Half on the sea, half onthe hills: here is BorgioVerezzi, a place withmultiple aspects. Borgio isa very well preservedancient borgo, it lies on asmall hill very close to thesea, surrounded by

vegetable gardens andorchards. Its cobbledstreets lead to the slopingPiazza San Pietro and toits white eighteenthcentury church and,beyond, to the sixteenthcentury, defense keep oneof many you can find onthe coast of Liguria, which

for long centuries wasexposed to the risk ofincursions by saracenpirates. Between the hill ofthe ancient borgo and thebeach, the flat, moderntown has all the necessaryfacilities to make the stayof tourists pleasant: beachresorts, restaurants,

Il Loanese & il Pietrese

B Verezziorgio

promenades, bars to drinkcocktails in the fullmoonlight. Naturally, infront of Borgio there's thesea, it is characterized byshallow waters and arocky shoal covered withsand at a depth of onlyhalf a metre, it is very rich

in marine flora and fauna,a joy for scuba divers andfor those who love tobrowse around thecoloured submarine worldwith respirator andflippers. It is also useful forfishermen who supplyfresh fish to restaurantsthat still propose theCiüpin, the tasty local fishsoup prepared by cookingslowly the fish in a terra-cotta bowl with tomatoesand other vegetables andthen pouring the cream insoup plates over roastedbread. To reach the other half ofthis wonderful town, it is

necessary to climb somepanoramic hairpin bends:Verezzi is on the top, 200metres above sea level,with its four old borgosthat are more than 900years old, scatteredgroups of houses made ofstone, houses as clear asthe rock of the terraces onwhich they stand,cultivated fields whereolives and even carobtrees grow, with cobbledalleys, arches and littlesquares, lazy cats,vineyards, stone seats andwashing troughs; on topof the hill there is also amill, called phoenician

2

Borgio Verezzi

In the borgo Piazzadi Verezzi, in Sant'Agostinosquare, it's more than 30years that the InternationalFestival of Theatre and theNational Award "Veretium"take place.In the sunset, while actorsrehearse the show that theywill perform at night, amongcurious catsand the clink of the restaurant dishes, with thescent of the salted water inthe air... every year inVerezzi a wedding betweennature and culture iscelebrated.

● Piazza di Verezzi. Saint Augustin Chapel is thebackstage of the famousInternational Festival ofTheatre. Some views of the borgolooking over the sea

Theatre insquare

because ofits building

technique.They arenamedPoggio,

Piazza,Roccaro, and Crosa thefour borgos of Verezzi:little balconies facing thesun and the sea; at thebeginning of the secondmillennium Saracensalready loved this cornerof Riviera, infact thearchitectural style in whichthese houses are builtis called "saracen".

Walking on a sunny dayalong paths and tortuousroads that climb this rockyand green hill, better if inwinter or in spring, farfrom the heart of summer,allowes to deeplyunderstand all the charmof the Mediterranean andof the Riviera delle Palmeand to realize with wonderand joy what living in Liguria means.

3


And the parson of Verezzi knows it verywell, infact he rings the"mum's bell" every eveningat 19 to remember allmums of the world.

All mums ofthe world are

beautiful

The camel in the caveIn one of his songs FrancoBattiato says he feels "like a camel in a gutter", it must not be verycomfortable, poor camel.Not to mention thefamous camel in the eye of the needle. And how would a camel in a cave feel?

Oh, it feels very well, alsobecause it isn't a camelwith hair and humps, but a strange rockyformation. The limestone rocks of this strip of Riviera arefull of caves and ravines,excavated by the water inthe course of millenniums.And when water andlimestone play together,they can be great artists.The caves of Borgio arean underground labyrinth,it is a few kilometres longand it can be visited underthe guide of speleologists. The first haul, 800 metreslong, has been opened

Traditions of the old

daysJust outsideBorgio, in the

borgo cemetery, there's abeautiful, ancient church: itwas founded with the nameof San Pietro on the path ofa Roman road and it is nowdedicated to Saint Stephen;it is medieval and romanicand it has an inside wall that,it is said, had the function toseparate men from womenduring services. May be inBorgio there was someonewho went to mass for lovereasons instead of to pray?

● Playing fountains andlimestone shapes in ValdeminoCave: dreamy, fanciful figures,in which chemistry interpretsthe queer creativity of nature

4

Borgio Verezzi

to the public since 1970:the entrance is 36 metresabove sea level, insidethere is a constanttemperature of 16 degreescentigrade and a 90%humidity; these arecharacteristics whichbenefit the visitors’respiratory system.The limestone of the rockcontains small quantitiesof iron materials whichgive to the cave walls redand yellow shades. From the ceiling of thecave the "spaghetti"dangle, they are vibrant threadlike

stalactites, while otherformations enchant withtheir winding drapery.Then you meet small lakes created by the rain that seeps throughthe rock chinks and otheroddities which seemcarved by a visionarysculptor: there's theCamel, and there are theWaterfall, the Torso ofPope John XXIII, theLighthouse, theSamurai....It is up to your sensitivityto find out other shapescarved by the fantasy of nature.

Here thekitchen

mixes seawith land: let's try the

Ciüpin, the fish soup, butdon't forget the sage ravioli,the bruschetta (roastedbread with oil, garlic andtomato), the cima ripiena (ameat roll with a stuffing ofvegetables, eggs and meat)and the snails in zimino (achickpeas soup). Limitedquantities of a white winecalled “lumassina” areproduced in Verezzi. It is anamber-coloured wine, witha scent of almonds and

pine-seed. When itmatures, it

becomessparklingand evenmorescented.

Eating anddrinking

ligure

5


● The hill of Verezzi is aworld made of candid stone,filled with sun and sea salt: it is the true Mediterranean

A Pria: from rock to townIt is a big limestone rockthat stands very close tothe sea: on the big rock, inan uncertain date, theCastrum Petrae was built,a fortified site used by thebizantines as defenseagaist the longobards in

the early Middle Ages. Then it was feud ofAlbenga bishops and in1385 it became anindependent communityunder Genoa’s jurisdiction.The place had been wellchosen: high and richmountains at the back toprotect agaist the winds

ensure a mild climate allyear long and providedgood wood, long andsandy beaches, an idealsite to build shipyards andto engage in maritimecommerce. The ancient tradition ofshipyards is still alive,commerce has been

Pietra Ligure

6

Pietra Ligure

flanked by tourism.Thanks to tourism, todayPietra has a wonderfulpalm-lined promenadeand modern seasidefacilities which enrich thelong beach where you cansunbathe in peace, eat,enjoy surfing andswimming courses andwater sports competitions,

practise aqua-gym whileleaving your children to thebaby-sitting service.And for those who have afour-legged friend, inPietra there is one of thefirst beaches in Liguriawith dogs facilities. And when the sun goesdown or when it is too hotto lie on the beach, thereis only to choose amongtennis and bowls fields,open air discos,pianobars, beach parties,festivals, the antiquesmarket (every lastweekend of the month),classical and dialectal theatre performances

and live music (the oldestitalian Filarmonic Societywas born in Pietra in1518). Pietra is a place for people of every ageand every need.

7


● The tropical vegetation castslong shadows on the sea walk ofPietra, while the fine Libertywindows of XIX century palacesin the borgo shine under theautumn sun

Ancient names for ancient roadsWhat is more personal,familiar, traditional for apopulation or a communitythan its dialect? It's a pitythat the use and theknowledge of the manyItalian dialects is slowlygoing lost and the numberof those who speak andunderstand dialects among

new generations isdecreasing. A dialect thatdesappears is like a typicaldish whose recipe has gonelost, a wine whosegrapewine has been rootedout, a patron saint’s festivalthat is not celebratedanymore. Finally, it is a littlecultural and spiritual death,an extinction from which itis impossible to come back.Here in Pietra, or better inPria, people care abouttheir dialect and do all thatis possible to avoid it isforgotten and to lettraditional names of placesand roads alive. Walkingthrough the Caruggi, on the

colored walls ot the oldhouses it is easy to findplates of pink stone whichshow the dialectal namesof roads and squares.

Walking through the caruggiJust leave sea andamusements for a whileand let's walk trough the

8

Pietra Ligure

Industry, art,engineering,

handicraft, all this is theshipbuilding; a challenge tonature, that decided for mena land existence. Sailing hasbeen one of the pillars ofLigurian culture for at least1000 years. The coast townswhich during the centurieshad little or big shipyardsalong the beaches aremany, there it was simple tobuild and launch galleys,caravels, gozzi, steamers,vessels and motorboats,under sail or engine.Pietra has a respectableshipbuilding tradition,which comes from thecenturies of the GenoaRepublic.Today it is specialized in thebuilding of fast ferryboats.

Shipbuilders

● When the tourists goback to the city, thefishermen with their nets,the “leudi”, the “gozzi”covered with salt get backthe beach. And to sharetheir dominion, the lazycats, lords of the beach andthe boats all over the Riviera

centre of Pietra: the BorgoVecchio dates from theMiddle Ages and, just likemany other borgos ofLiguria, it sprawls thin andstraight along the coastand the seafront with itsnarrow caruggi. Why didpeople of Liguria in theMiddle Ages live in suchnarrow roads? Just thinkof the dangers of thosetimes: saracen pirates,German mercenaries,belligerent feudal lords. Innarrow roads like labyrinths,it was simpler to defendand to confuse the enemy.Then there is the BorgoNuovo that dates from the

Renaissance. The Marina,between the promenadeand the shipyards datesfrom the nineteenth century.Walking through the centrewe meet some wonderfulpalaces which date fromthe Middle Ages and theXVIII century, the mostimportant of them is Leale-Franchelli palace, it datesfrom the XVIII century, ithas beautiful painted afresco rooms, a rich library,

porcelains and printscollections. Two beautifulchurches are the Annunziata,with its Madonna del Rosarioby A.M. Maragliano, and theparish of San Nicolò di Bari,

9


DiscoveringPIETRA LIGURE

this great church datesfrom the XVIII century withtwo bell towers, it is rich inmasterpieces. The "bronzodi San Nicolò" is loved bypeople of Pietra, it is a bellthat in 1525 sounded toannounce the end of atremendous pestilence; itis on the bell tower of theOratorio dei Bianchi.

10

Pietra Ligure

● What is a “caruggio”? It is the essence itself, the soulplace of Ligurian borgos. Take thecaruggi away and Liguria wouldcease to exist. With no high, coloured houses, novaulted buttresses, no cobbledstreets, no shade and sunshineplaying on the roofs... what wouldthese towns become?

It is notcompletely true

that the celtic Halloweencelebrated the first ofNovember, recentlyimported from America,is not linked at all withitalian traditions about thedead and Saints: in a lot of places ofLiguria on the second ofNovember it wascustomary to go fromhouse to house asking tocollect offerings for thesouls of the dead;chestnuts, sweet driedfigs; in Pietra, in Loanoand elsewhere childrenwent from door to door,exactly like Charlie Brownand his friends.

Halloweenof old times

11

On the mountains of PietraAmong the mountainsaround Pietra which makeits climate so mild, thereare two fresh, woody, shortvalleys: Val Maremola andValle di Giustenice, withtheir heritage of history, artand curiosities. Along

pinewood avenue leadstoward the Val Maremola,where history and art meetin particular in thesanctuary of NostraSignora del Soccorso, atthe feet of the Grossomountain. It has beenwanted by the people ofPietra and by the Doria

family lords of Loano atthe beginning of theseventeenth century and ithosts a fresco of theMadonna painted in thefifteenth century. A littlehigher, Tovo San Giacomoand the scattered Maglioloborgos maintain thefeatures of the typical


Val Maremola

● A stony remnant of anancient castle, the stone of anoil-press, the nets unfolded togather the ripe olives. This is the Liguria of dales,where the sea is a large stripprojected on the horizon, half-screened by the green olive-trees and holm oaks, withthe scent of salt carried by thehot sirocco wind

borgos of Liguria,untouched landscapesand ancient architectureswhile the valley becomeswild, among beautifulpathes and of ornamentalevergreens (used byflorists) several cultivations.The road that twists andturns towards Isallo, asmall Magliolo borgosurrounded by woodswhich climb to theMelogno ridge, wherearound 1750 an iron minewas installed. Today thereare the ruins to testify the

past industrial activity ofthe valley. Around here,those who love mountainbiking will find plenty ofpaths right for them.Justenens, instead, wasthe place for justice. Oncea month the mayor ofPietra Ligure climbed toSan Lorenzo, a Giusteniceborgo in the namesakevalley, to judge and to passsentences; in the Piazzadel Costino, in front of themunicipality, there still isthe stone seat for themayor. In reality it is notexactly a throne

12

Val Maremola

An episode ofGiustenice history revivesevery year in July throughthe costume remembranceof the battle of 1448between the troops of theGenoa Republic and theones of the MarquisGiovanni del Carretto, thelord of the place, whosecastle was besieged anddestroyed.After the "battle", a"medieval" dinner with ahistorical menu and afootball match in theFlorentine style, close thehistorical day.

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574

Bec del Seré

609

Colle del Giovo

Mad. d. Salto

51

6

Bec d. Tesoro

856

Bec di Fraciata

832

M. Ormè

494

Bec Berba

560

P.so del Faiallo1061

Mad. delCarmine

Mad. dellaPace

P.so del Turchino532

Il Deserto

LigureBorgio

Noli

Spotorno

Celle Ligure

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Finale Ligure

airo

ontenotte

SAVONA

Vado Ligure

Varazze

Albissola Marina

Arenzano

Cogoleto

Urbe

Voltri Prà

Bergeggi

Vezzi-Portio

Mallare

o

Cárcare

Altare

Merana

Dego

I. di Bergeggi

Miogliola

Pareto

Montaldo

MiogliaSassello

Moretti

Giusvalla

Piani d'Invrea

Sciarborasca

Lerca

Albisola Sup.

Quiliano

Pontinvrea

Acquabuona

Montecalvo Campo Ligure

Fado

Mele

Fiorino

Acquasanta

Biscaccia

Crévari

Terrarossa

Terralba

Tiglieto

Masone

Stella

N. 3

34

N. 542

N. 3

0

A 6

A 6

A 10N. 29

N. 1

A 10

N. 1

N. 1

A 26

A 26

A 10

N. 456

Riserva Naturaledi Bergeggi

Capo di Vado

Capo di Noli

Malpasso

VarigottiFinalpia

FinalmarinaCapo di Caprazoppa

Ligu

Grotte delleArene Candide

Parco Naturaledel Beigua

SAVONA-VADO

SPOTORNO

LE L.

LTAREARCARE

3.7

4.7

8.2

L. Lungo

VOLTRIPEGLI

ma

T. Stura

M. Orditano

950

P.ta Martin

1001

Mad. delGazzo

PegliPrà

SestriPonente

Carpenara

Lencisa

S.Martino

Acquasanta

S.Carlodi Cese

cia

Liguria


Rifugi, Grotte - Refuges, GrottoesRefuges, Grottes - Berghütten, Höhlen

Aeroporti, Porti e Porti TuristiciAirports, Ports and MarinasAéroports, Ports et Ports de plaisanceFlughäfen, Häfen und Touristische Häfen

Castelli, Torri, Santuari - Castles, Towers, SanctuariesChâteaux, Tours, SanctuairesSchlösser, Türme, Wallfahrtskirchen

Autostrade - MotorwaysAutoroutes - Autobahnen

Strade Principali - Main RoadsRoutes Principales - Hauptstraßen

Strade Provinciali - Provincial RoadsRoutes Départementales - Provinzstraßen

Strade Comunali - Secondary RoadsRoutes Communales - Nebenstraßen

Strade in costruzione - Streets in constructionRoutes en construction - Im Bau befindliche Straßen

Ferrovie - RailwayChemins de Fer - Eisenbahnlinen

Distanze Chilometriche - Distance in kilometresDistances kilométriques - Kilometerentfernung

Confine della Provincia di Savona - BordersFrontière - Provinzgrenze

Torrenti - StreamsTorrents - Strömen

Gallerie, Valichi - Tunnels, Mountain PassesTunnels, Cols - Tunnels und Pässe

Parchi e Aree Protette - Parks and Protected AreasParcs et Zones ProtegéesNaturparks und Naturschutzgebiete

5.7

IL FINALESE

The maritime republic of NoliAn ancient borgo,surrounded bywalls andwatched over byhigh towers,proud of theindependencewhich it wonduring the first

crusade and maintained for thefollowing 700 years. Porticoes,centuries-old lanes and a beachwhere local fishermen gather everymorning to sell last night's catch,fresh from the sea.

Varigotti , Mediterranean borgoLow-builtpainted houseswhich line thebeach amonggardens andlemon trees:here thearchitecture issouthernMediterranean in style, evoking theeternal geographical and culturalties which unite the two shores ofMare Nostrum.

The Altopiano delle ManieUntainted nature and real evidence

of Romanhistory liewaiting to bediscovered onthis verdantupland plateau,carved out by

deep valleys and caves. Sportslovers from all over Europe flock toits limestone rocks for free climbingand hang-gliding over Finale downtowards the sea.

Mushroomingin ValBormidaThe genuine,traditionalpleasures of

Liguria's mountain cuisine, “poor”yet deliciously tasty, a plethora ofporcini mushrooms, chestnuts,vegetable and game pies, made withingredients which grow wild in thehigher inland areas, flourishing inthe beech and chestnut woods.

ALASSIO & LE BAIE DEL SOLE

Albenga's historic centreA free Commune, a diocese of note, arich city; MedievalAlbenga, heir to theRomanAlbingaunum, hasleft behind apriceless artisticlegacy. Thecathedral of SanMichele, the baptistery with itsByzantine mosaics, tiny Piazza deiLeoni and the towers built by localfamilies make Albenga one ofnorthern Italy's most importantMedieval towns

Seasonal delights from the PianaNot just olive oil and wine from thehillside terraces: from Roman timesto the third millennium, the Piana diAlbenga, Liguria's onlylowland area, hasbeen providing fruit,vegetables andseasonal delicacies forthe tables of Liguriansand visitors alike.

Alassio's “budello”The budello or caruggio is the narrowroad which crosses the centre ofAlassio, the bustling, thriving heartand thoroughfare of this eleganttown, the grand dame of tourismalong the Riviera di Ponente. Theancient road is hemmed in betweenthe Riviera's finestbeach and theMuretto, a walldecorated andsigned by famousnames from thespheres of art,showbusiness andsport from the 1950s onwards.

Castelvecchio di Rocca BorbenaA 13th century borgo surrounded bywalls and low porticoes, whose mostfamous daughter rests eternally inLucca cathedral, immortalised insculpture by Jacopo della Quercia.A castledominates thesteep hill aroundwhich this villageof stone housesand layeredterraces windsitself precariously. The sea is amirage from here.

around and about

IL SAVONESE & IL VARAZZINO

The caruggi of Varazze and Celle

Two ancientLigurian seasidevillages withalleyways runningparallel to thebeach and tall,narrow houseswith painted

facades. The stone vaults of thecaruggi and palm-lined promenadeencapsulate all the colours, soundsand perfumes of MediterraneanLiguria.

The ceramicsof AlbisolaA world-famous,centuries-old artform, withtraditional patterns and colourspassed down the generations. Vases,ornaments, tiles, statuettes, plates,nativity figurines: Albisola has been aEuropean capital of ceramics sincethe 1400s.

Farinata from Savona and wines from QuilianoThey come from the southernMediterranean, but have many fansin Liguria: chickpeas, essentialingredients in farinata and panissa, aculinary delight in Liguria andSavona. A slice of fainâ and a glassof Granaccia or Buzzetto, ancient andnoble country wines, and the holidaygoes on.

The rivers of the BeiguaCool waters, woods filled with foliageand birdsong, lakes where you canswim alongside trout in the summersun, abandoned watermills.The semi-deserted valleys around

Mount Beigua arenow protected bythe BeiguaRegional NaturePark, helping keepthe naturalenvironment intact.

18

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City of PrincesLoano, as well as Pietra,has an ancient, noblehistory, which led it fromcapital of a smallprincipality to anoutstanding seasideresort, thanks to thebeauties that naturebestowed on it: the sea,

the beach, a mild climate,the earth’s fertility.A city of Roman origin, inthe Middle Ages Loanowas the see of Albengabishops, was later handedto the Doria family in1263 and remainedunder the rule of thisinfluential family, almost

with no interruption, till1737, when it was soldto the Savoias. The Dorias weremunificent and generouslords who embellishedLoano with monumentsand art works. The Roman age left usthe Pontasso, a stone

Loano

Loano

13

like the one ofCharlemagne,it is just anaskew

stone.After having

ruled, condemned oracquitted, the mayor ofPietra was invited forlunch by the villagers: inthe valley of the Giusteniceriver, olives and grapevinesare still cultivated, and inthe council hall somestone measures from1606 for wine and oil arestill preserved. On theother side of the valley, theSan Michele borgo towerson a dizzy top, dominated

by the charming ruins ofthe Castle and of thechurch dating from the XIVcentury obviouslydedicated to San Michele.In reality, hereabouts lifewas already present along time before mayorsand castles. Infact, on theVaré promontory, thatseparates the ValMaremola from the Val diGiustenice, ruins of Romangraves have been found.

● Saint Augustin used to saythat he knew what is time, butwas not able to explain it: theBergallo family can certainlysaythey are able to measure it

The mostcurious curiosity of theVal Maremola is inBardino Nuovo, a borgoof Tovo San Giacomo,where there is amuseum, may be theonly one in Italy,dedicated to towerclocks. Since 1860 theBergallo family, hasworked in monumentalwatchmaking and thismuseum is the curiousevidence of this artisticpassion: watches andmachineries, of everyage and style, built totell time, decorated andcolored to sweeten topeople the unavoidablepassing of time.

Tic tac,cloc,cucù

WORTH VISITING:

The Museum of the

Tower Clock

In Bardino Nuovo.


bridge, now buried alongthe Roman street whichruns to the west of thecity, and a II centurymosaic floor, today in themain hall of Palazzo Doria,the elegant city palacebuilt in 1578, withbalcons, loggias, a walledgarden and a 1608pentagonal tower whichwas erected against thepirates.

Close to Palazzo Doria,we find the XVII centuryPalazzo del Comandante,with its beautifully ornatedfaçade. Nor can weneglect another Doriabuilding, the Castle, builtin the XVII century, whichtoday is a gorgeous XVIIIcentury villa plunged in apark looking over the sea.All around it, BorgoCastello is the mediaevalwalled heart of the city. In the linear borgo lying parallel to thecoast and visible fromthe sea, the XVIIcentury parishchurch of

S. Giovanni Battista has atwelve-side shape and isenriched with paintings byGenoese masters and alate XIX century irondome, strenghtened withan antiseismic structure.We are not less indebtedto the Doria family for thetwo great XVII centuryconvents: S. Agostino, inthe very heart of the city,and the Monte Carmelomonastery on a panoramic

hill, both of which arerich in art works. On

Monte Carmelo, theDorias built their

tombs till1793.

19


● Look at Loano with your noseupwards: the fine, multi-coloured façades and windowslooking over its caruggi are littleart masterpieces.They create a perfect matchwith the coloured cheerfulness ofopen beach umbrellas

A remnant ofSavoia rule over

the city is theClock Tower,erected in1774 on thePastorino

Gate tocelebrateVittorio

Amedeo III. We can meetthe tower if, leaving thecity centre, we walk to the sea.But the most importantdate with history for Loanowas the battle the Frenchrevolutionary army fought,and won, with the Austrianand Savoia armies on 23th

and 24th November 1795.It was the first battle in thelong campaign which wasto give Napoleon powerand glory, and althoughthe fight took place ratheron the surrounding hillsthan in Loano itself, theinhabitants are proud torecollect this old,important episode of theirhistory: after all, the nameof the city is inscribed onthe Arc de Triomphe, in Paris...

...and funToday, Loano is one of theliveliest seaside resorts inthe Riviera. Its long, sandy

beach is lined by thebeautiful sea walk andshadowed by palm treeson which the sun shines insummer and in winter. The beach life offers manyopportunities for fun andsport: swimming, surf,aquagym, baby club, notto mention the eveningparties, the concerts, thediscos, the barbecues inthe open air. And to seadogs, Loano holds out amodern, well-equippedtourist harbour. Those who leave the seabehind themselves bearing the taste of salt on their skin can stroll

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Loano

DiscoveringLOANO

21

around in the intricacy ofcarrugi north of the seawalk, in the historic center, or go shopping

in thecharmingsmall shops,looking for theagriculturalproducts which arestill cultivated in thecountry around the city. There were manyvegetable and fruitgardens in the plain ofNimbalto stream, justaround old Loano. But still today, no matter ifholiday houses havespread all about, the fertileearth of the plain bringsforth tasteful vegetablesand fruits.

Monte Carmo or the sky over LoanoLet’s forget cars, of

which moderntourists sometimesmake an improper

use, just put on agood, solid pair of shoes,and, with a rucksack onour shoulders, climb upsome green, windymountains. Such as MonteCarmo, 1389 metres ofrocks and sparse woodsonly one step far from thesky over Loano: amountain which offers oneof the most enchantingpanoramas in Liguria.


On July the 2th,in honour of the

Madonna del Rosario,the members ofbrotherhoods bring theCross and the statue ofMary, covered with gold andenthroned, in procession.And the night before, adevoted wake of theVirgin’s statue is organized.

The Madonna on the

shoulders

Go, leave the cheerfulbustling of thecrowded beachesbehind you andascend to the sky,passing by thestony houses ofCarpe up the ValVaratellaprovincial route,to the Giogo diToirano (800 m); here,get off your cars and startwalking up an easy path,a section of the Alta Via ofLigurian Alps, which, in nomore than 2 hours, leads you to the greatcross on the summit ofMonte Carmo.

If you have bumpedinto a pure-aired day(winter and springare better seasonsthan summer), you

can take in a singlelook a great partof northern Italy,from Genoa to theAlpi Marittime andMonte Rosa, from

the Piedmont plain to theLombardy Alps andAdamello, the entireLigurian sea with the long,grey outline of Corsicafloating in the deep blueand the indented Coted’Azur at the farthestoccidental extremity.

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Boissano

Boissano: scent of olivetrees.You only have to leaveLoano and direct yourselvesinland, to pass by thehighway, and here isBoissano, a rural borgo withits scattered small groupsof houses. The names of thehamlets, Pogli, Mogli,Gandolfi, Berruti, are thoseof the families that arenative of this area. Almostall of them still live in theirlittle domains. Many housesin Boissano do not havetiled roofs: the roof-terraceswere used to collectrainwater. In the parishchurch, dedicated to MaryMagdalene, there is awooden statue of SaintMary attributed toMaragliano. The City Hall,also known as “Ca’ diGatti”, rises imposingly atthe centre of the village.

Buizan:prufümmu de zærmi

● The sunny, arid top of MonteCarmo offers a wonderful pointof view on the Riviera and thesea, beyond which, now andthen, the gray outline of Corsicaappears, wrapped in the mist,half-way between the Not-Found-Island and theIsland-Which-Does Not Exist

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Two thousand years oftourismIf Toirano caves were thefirst “Ligurian borgo” of theRiviera, we can say thatthe first tourist to build aholiday house around herewas a Roman citizen, oneP. Didius Callinicus, who

chose the cape of Borghettoas a shelter for his idlerests. We do not disposeof a great amount of detailsabout him, but are informedthat he probably had avilla whose remnantsconsist of a small altar,dedicated to the Matron

goddesses, now in thegarden of the XIX centuryCastle Borelli, just on thecape, among the pinetrees. There is no sayingthat Callinicus’ choice wasa shrewd one: a positionslightly elevated, a fewsteps away from the sea.

orghetto S. SpiritoB

At his age, there may havenot been seaside resorts,the mediaeval borgo,restaurants, but theclimate was good, theview delightful... Borghettowas born after 1260around the Santo SpiritoHospital as an Albengabridgehead established inthe Finale territory; its

historic centre retainsits original rectangular

shape and somesections of

the walls as well as twotowers and the southgate, which was rebuiltduring the baroque age.Surrounding the moderncity, olive tree groves andgreenhouses full of fruitsannounce that the fertileplain of Albenga is near by.

TOIRANO: THEGREAT GRAND-FATHERS’ HOUSEWe could even moreproperly define it the houseof grandfathers’ greatgrandfathers: in fact, here,in the caves which dig upthe hills behind Loano, didthe most ancient Ligurians

in history, orprehistory, live.Under moderneyes, they werequeer people, whoenjoyed throwingclay balls againstthe walls. But whatif a remotedescendant shouldjudge us out of ourpredilection forkicking a football?

Toirano

● The entrance gate to thehistoric centre of Borghetto Santo Spirito is not closed atnightfall to protect theinhabitants from the pirates'attacks, but welcomes thetourists who go sipping theirdrinks around the small square

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In these deep hollows, thereare as many as 50 caves:1280 metres of undergroundtunnels, dug by the actionof water on limestone.Toirano caves are awonder of nature, one ofthe ten most beautifulcaves in Italy. The mostfamous one is the Grottadella Bàsura: the bàsuraswere the witches, who, asis well known, lived inundergound holesconnected to hell anddefended by spellbinding-eyed ocellatae lizards (theyare the biggest lizards inEurope, 60 centimetreslong). Modern people do

not believe these devilishstories: the visit of theBàsura takes one hourand a half, passingthrough the bears’cemetery, covered withbones of Ursus spelaeus(the bear of the caves); thegallery of prints, left by thenails of bears and the feetof men (Neanderthal?)who, carrying torches andspears with them, huntedthe wild beasts; and thepuzzling room of themisteries, where we findthe clay balls thrown onthe walls by our unknownancestors for some socialor religious reasons

● The first apartment block,the first hotel in Liguria werethe Toirano Caves, a darkmineral world, a hunting placeand prayer sanctuary for ourunknown forefathers

which we ignore.An artificial passage linksthe Bàsura to santaLucia caves: thelower cave is atriumph ofsubterraneannature, withwonderfulstalactites andstalagmites,whereas, in the upper cave,we can admire a sanctuarysculpted in the stone, withthe front dropping sheerover the valley and abeautiful panorama.Behind the altar, amiraculouswell: Lucy

is the patron saint of eyeillnesses.

A land of oil,wine and paperFrom the XIIIcentury on, this

was the wealth ofthe old borgo of

Toirano. Till before themodern era of tourismappeared. Toirano, likemany other towns in thezone, has Roman origins.Later, in the early MiddleAges, it became a fortresson the frontier betweenLongobards andByzantians; thereafter

Toirano was the see ofAlbenga bishops.The structure of the borgohas not changed since theMiddle Ages: Toracco isthe oldest part of the town,with its high buildings andsmall lanes. Under theporticoes, small shops opentheir windows; just a littlefarther, the entrance of theancient parish church, close

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Toirano

It is a tasteful andinebriating route,

well marked and as windingas a mountain bike race.It runs along the valleys ofthe Riviera, silvered witholive trees and green with fatgrapes of Pigato andVermentino wines. There, youcan see olive trees clutchedto stone walls, which mustbe looked at as masterpiecesof peasant engineering andvineyards made of fewranges of grape-vines andsupported by wooden poles.It is a waythroughLiguriancivilization andits poor buthealthy andscentedcooking.

The routeof oil

to the XVIIcenturychurch

dedicated toS. Martin,and the XIVcentury tower,the sole to

survive amongthe towers of the citywalls; there is also abeautiful XII century stonebridge that crosses thestream. Ah do not forgetto have a look at thebuilding of the rulers: theBishop’s Palace and thePalace of the MarquisesDel Carretto, the rulers ofFinale, who, before 1385,

disputed the possessionof the land to Genoa.We spoke of oil, wineand paper: Toirano wasan industrial centre ofsome importance. Today,it is up to theEthnographical Museum,with its nine sections, tokeep alive the recollectionof these traditionalactivities and of men andwomen who practisedthem.

27


● In the caruggi of Toirano,the "gumbi", the olive presses,work to produce olive oil, which is a first-class, healthyingredient of the Mediterranean diet

Between July andAugust, in Toirano, peoplecelebrate the oil with one ofthe most sincere andattended popular festivals inLiguria: the festival ofgumbi, a term which, in thelocal dialect, means olive-press. It is a festival forToirano natives, of course,but tourists are welcome.To tell the truth, many afamily from southern Italycomes to Toirano to takepart in gumbi, to sign anideal friendship pactbetween the different Italianoil lands. What do peopledo, during the festival? They gather in the cellarsand oil mills to taste thefarinata, the panizza, theapple sweets and to drinkthe delicious local wine.

The feastof gumbi

WORTH VISITING:

Ethnographical

Museum of

the Val Varatella in Toirano

THE STRONGHOLDOF BALESTRINOIn a sideways dale of theVaratella River, on a hillwhich dominates theBorgo of Balestrino, thiscastle was built, partlyruler’s palace, partlystronghold. Its ownerswere the marquises Del Carretto,

who, till the XVIII century,governed Finale and otherscattered towns. LikeLoano, Balestrino neverbelonged to the republicof Genoa, although thesmall borough wasencircled by the Genoeseterritory: it was a“concentric state”.The castle and the town ofBalestrino were occupiedand sacked in 1795 bythe French revolutionary

troops who, a year

later, won the battle ofLoano; later, the castlewas restored.It is said that, out of an oldprivilege, those whograsped its gratings werefreed from any criminalcharge; this may be theorigin of the Italian game“Liberi tutti” (similar toEnglish hide and seek)that all Italian peopleplayed when they werechildren. Now the oldborgo, which grew grape-like on the slopes of

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Balestrino

the castle hill, has beenabandoned because ofthe risk of landslips, and anew borgo has been rebuila little farther. It is notpossible to walk along thelanes of the old borgo,which is unsafe andfenced. It can only belooked at from thecobbled streets that crossit; and this vision ismagical and painful at thesame time. Do not miss it.Also because the times ofdesolation and neglectmay soon be over for thisancient village: modernsoil consolidationtechniques may bring

back life to the old housesmade of stone andwooden beams. A projectfinanced by the LiguriaRegion, by theMunicipality and by privatedonors, perhaps even bythe European Union, willrestore about 350buildings. It will again bepossible to live in thisneighbourhood of smallsquares and alleys: a wayof life that, despite allmodern comforts, willclosely resemble that ofthe original inhabitants ofBalestrino at the time of the marquises Del Carretto.

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● The borgo of Balestrino,which was human community,houses, churches, shops, will bebrought to life again thanks to aproject of consolidation of soiland buildings

The path of TerreAlte leads the trekking fansfrom Toirano to the Colle delMelogno (1028 m) passingby the shelter Pian delleBosse (841 m) in the upperVal Nimbalto and flying overthe Val Maremola. On thesummit of Melogno, thepath gets to the Alta Via deiMonti Liguri, which is the"highway" of the mountainsof Liguria and the stateroute connecting Finale tothe upper Val Bormida.The path is divided intothree stages: the tourToirano-Balestrino-Toiranowhich will take three hoursand a half to be completed;the stage Toirano-Pian delleBosse, a four-hour-and-a-half walk; the tour Piandelle Bosse-Melogno, whichcan be achieved in sixhours. You know, Liguria isreally a land made of seaand mountains. If you arenot yet tired and themountain landscape is yourpassion, why do not walkon from Colle del Melognoalong the Alta Via for threehours, in the deep silence ofthe woods of upperVal Bormida ridge?

Walking on themountains:the path of “Terre Alte”

Judging by the today’sconditions, it is difficult to

become aware of theimportance the monastery

had for six hundred years.Rather, a stronger impact

on visitors is made by thesilent environment, enrichedwith beautiful views on sunnydays. Melancholy prevailsupon the rest of the scenewhen the south-east windblows and the coast belowdisappears in the fog.

The Benedictine monastery ofSan Pietro di Varatella, 890 m.over Toirano, was founded inthe IX century by the EmperorCharles the Great, although thelegend says that Saint Peterand his family sojourned hereon their way from Palestine toRome and built the firstchurch in Liguria. The monksof San Pietro acquired a greatpower, had estates scatteredbetween Albenga and theLanghe and improved life

conditions ofthe region bysupporting itsagricultural andindustrial development,introducing the cultivation ofolive trees and vineyards toLiguria and building flour andoil mills. The Abbey of SanPietro in Varatella is still adestination for hikers andpilgrims alike: each year aprocession climbs up fromToirano on the first of May.

It can seem incredible thatat such a short distancefrom an animated, hot, vivid,blue coast full of sounds,voices, music, there aresloping mountains, coveredwith woods, deprived ofmen’s presence andmanufacts, where the air isfull of a deep silence whichthe wind or the rare flightsof birds can hardly break.The primitive, wildenchantement of Ligurian

mountains is mainly foundedon that: the indescribablecontrast between thebeaches, the narrow coastalplain, endlessly sparklingwith life, and the highlandswhich seem to live out oftime and history. But, in fact,they are so near that a fewturns on the provincialroute are sufficient to getto them. It is charming tolook at the sea from above,from the paths cutting the

hinterland mountains,opening their way amongpine trees and the songsof cicadas. Varatella valleyis one of the mostinaccessible and enchantingvalleys in Liguria, narrow,sloping, panoramic as canbe expected from a Ligurianvalley, which, from the rockylimestone summits, falls ontothe sea with an infinite seriesof meadows, ravines, pinetrees and olive trees.

Val Varatella

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Val Varatella

A monasterydedicated to San Pietro

Riviera delle Palme - Italienska Statens Turistbyrå · of the Riviera delle Palme and to realize...

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