Restaurants, caf©s and bars in Essaouira

Restaurants, cafés and bars in Essaouira

© www.ChezRebecca.com - 1 - Last updated: 17 December 2013

Essaouira is full of characterful cafés and restaurants, most of which serve good, freshly cooked food in interesting surroundings. They range from tiny hole-in-the wall places where you can eat in or have a take-away for a few dirhams to luxurious establishments which, although expensive, are likely to be considerably cheaper than the equivalent in your home town. The cuisines available include French, Italian, Oriental and, of course, fresh seafood so you should find something to suit most tastes and budgets either in the medina (where nowhere is more than 15 minutes walk away) or a pleasant stroll along the beach. Below you will find is a summary of our current favourite eating and drinking places (the ones we go back to time and time again) plus others which we also like. This summary is followed by more information about these and most of the other named restaurants, cafés and bars in the medina and along the waterfront. These include recommendations based on a number of sources, including word of mouth, the web, guide books and our own and clients' personal experience. If you would like to see what other people are recommending at the moment, the best place is TripAdvisor - in a place as vibrant as Essaouira where new places are opening all the time, guidebooks can never be fully up-to-date, even if they have just been published. As many of the restaurants are small and have weekly and annual closures, and opening times tend to vary according to season, it is best to book in advance if you are keen to try a particular place. Please note that most restaurants do not accept credit cards – even if they have a sign saying that they do! In general, the smaller, cheaper or more traditional restaurants don’t serve alcohol whereas the more upmarket ones do, although the choice may be somewhat limited (even if the list isn’t!). Restaurants which don’t have a licence sometimes allow you to take your own but you should always ask first. Moroccan wines come in red, white, rosé and 'gris' (a sort of light rosé) and range from drinkable to quite good. The local ‘Mogador’ wines from the nearby Val d'Argan Vineyard are among the best in Morocco, although they are relatively expensive and not often offered on wine lists. For reasonable, mid-price wines try the Domaine de Sahari range, especially the reserves.



Our favourites Others worth a try Breakfast: € <20 DH €€ 21-40 DH

€€€ >40 DH

Fanatic €€ place Marché aux Grains €€

Tara café €€-€€€

Chalet de la Plage Café €€ patisserie Driss €€

le Glacier €€ place Moulay Hassan €-€€

Panoramique €€

Lunch: € <50 DH

€€ 51-100 DH €€€ >100 DH

= cost for one course, excluding

drinks or tips

A = serves alcohol

Beach and Friends €-€€€ A la Cantina €-€€ Fanatic €-€€€ A

place Marché aux Grains €-€€ Ocean Vagabond Beach Café €-€€€ A

Ocean Vagabond Hotel €-€€€ A Taros roof terrace €€-€€€ A la Tête dans les Etoiles €-€€

café de la Baie €-€€€ A Chabbi Chic €-€€

Crêperie Mogador €-€€ A Delices et Saveurs €-€€ les Gargottes €-€€€

Ginger café € café Jalil €

chez el Ouazzani € Tara café €-€€

Dinner: € <150 DH €€ 151-350 DH

€€€ 351-500 DH €€€€ >500 DH

= cost for a three course meal,

excluding drinks or tips

A = serves alcohol

les Alizés de Mogador € A le Clé de Voûte €-€€ A

Elizir €€ A al Farachah €€-€€€ A

Miyame Resto € d ’Orient et d’Ailleurs €-€€€ A

Sirocco €-€€€ A la Table de Madada €€-€€€ A

Taros €€ A la Triskalla €

Villa Maroc €€ A

dar Adul €€ A les Arcades/Chez Jalila €

Caravane Café €-€€ A Chabbi Chic € la Découverte € le Duplex €-€€ Ferdaouss €

Gnawa Blues €-€€ Green Wok Thai €

l’Heure Bleu Palais €€€€ A la Laayoune €

Lalla Mira € - €€ A la Licorne €€ A

la Maison du Cinema € A la Mama €

el Menzah €€ A Mermoz €

M’Riste Jouhar € O'Bleu Mogador €€ A

dar l’Oussia €€ A le Patio €€ A Sushithé €€ Tawrit €

Vagues Bleus €

Drinks: Beach and Friends dar l’Oussia

Ocean Vagabond Beach Café (until 18:00)

Taros (lunchtime and from 18:00) Villa Maroc

Aigue Marine Bar

Chalet de la Plage Café il Mare el Mehdi el Menzah

bar Mogador chez Sam le Trou

Key to symbols in the listings below

= Serves breakfast

= Serves tea, coffee and soft drinks

= Serves hot meals

= Does takeaways = Usually takes credit cards

= Sometimes has live music

= Serves alcohol with meals = Serves Alcohol without meals

WiFi = Has free WiFi



dar ADUL

Characterful, eclectically-furnished restaurant with exuberant paintings by the owner, Didier Spindler. There is a daily choice of three (mainly French) dishes for each course. Food is a bit variable and the wine overpriced but it is worth a visit for the decor. There is often music (classical) and a magician. Closed Monday. Address: 63 Rue Touhaen Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 39 10 Cost: 2 courses: 150 DH, 3 courses: 200 DH (November 2013)

AFTASS

Modest café on Place Moulay Hassan serving the standard menu of French, Moroccan, Italian and seafood dishes. Address: Place Moulay Hassan Cost: Breakfast: 25 DH, One course: 10 – 45 DH, 3 courses 40 – 60 DH (March 2009) Chez AHMED One of several little cafés with outside tables in the peaceful former grain market. Serves good breakfasts, juices and light lunches. Address: 222 Place Marché aux Grains Cost: Breakfast: 25 – 35 DH, One course: 45 - 70 DH, 3 courses: 50 - 75 DH (November 2013)

AIGUE MARINE WiFi Modern restaurant/pub/tapas bar just across the road from the beach (about 10 minutes walk from the medina - beneath La Petite Algue). You can eat in the subtly-lit main restaurant, at counters overlooking the sea or outside. Wines are relatively expensive and not all bottles (or dishes) on the list may be available. Has popular live music sessions on Friday and Saturday (and sometimes other days) from about midnight onwards. Address: 62 Boulevard Mohamed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 48 28 Cost: Tapas: 25 – 50 DH, One course: 40 – 130 DH, 3 courses: 135 – 235 DH (October 2012)

Chez ALADIN LE BERBERE Tiny brightly decorated restaurant serving a mainly Moroccan menu with some unusual specialities. Address: Place Chrib Attai/Place El Khaima (off Rue Laâlouj)

Cost: One course: 15 - 100 DH, 3 courses: 45 - 150 DH (March 2012)

les ALIZÉS DE MOGADOR

One of the most popular little restaurants in town, Les Alizés serves hearty portions of delicious Moroccan home cooking in a cosy, candlelit room. The short 3-course menu is good value, as is the wine, and the service is relaxed, friendly and efficient. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Booking is advisable in the evening which, when busy, has two sittings – about 19:30 and 21:30. Note; not to be confused with Atlas Hotel's Les Alizés upmarket international restaurant. Address: 26 Rue Skala Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 68 19 Cost: 3 courses: 129 DH (November 2013) Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009, Lonely Planet 2011, Michelin 2007, Rough Guide 2007, Routard 2010, Time Out 2008



l'ARBRE BLEU

Atmospheric little art gallery nestling just inside the medina's wall close to its eastern bastion. You can have tea and cakes in the colourful interior surrounded by a good range of artwork chosen or painted by the welcoming owner, French artist Monique Favière, The surrounding Chbanat district, which is off the beaten tourist track, is well worth a leisurely exploration. Open Monday - Saturday 10:00 - 13:00 and 15:00 - 19:00. Address: 233 Rue Chbanat Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 78 57 39 42 Website: www.moniquefaviere.com

les ARCADES/CHEZ JALILA WiFi No-nonsense candlelit little place with low banquette seating from where you can watch locals promenading along the main street while you eat. The well cooked food includes some more unusual Moroccan dishes such as camel tanjia. Address: Avenue de l’Istiqal Cost: Breakfast: 35 DH, One course: 35 – 120 DH, 3 courses: 65 – 210 (November 2013)

Café des ARTS

Attractive candelit stairs lead to tiny first and second floor dining areas with rather odd décor, food and service. Address: Avenue de l’Istiqlal Cost: One course: 12 – 85 DH, 3 courses: 47 – 145 (March 2009)

Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009

ATLAS HOTEL Large modern hotel opposite the beach about 20 minutes walk from the medina. Has three restaurants: Le Seven (by the beach - see separate enty), Les Alizés and Le Safran. Address: Boulevard Mohamed V

- les ALIZÉS (ATLAS HOTEL) Not to be confused with the medina’s lovely little Les Alizés de Mogador, this is an upmarket restaurant serving international cuisine. Cost: 3 courses: 70 - 180 DH, 3 courses: 240 - 370 DH per person (March 2009)

- le SAFRAN

Serves Moroccan cuisine in upmarket surroundings. Cost: 3 courses: 250 - 350 DH per person (March 2009)

BAB LAACHOUR Café/restaurant with nicely situated roof terrace overlooking Place Moulay Hassan and the sea. Basic cooking includes Italian and Moroccan dishes, seafood, omelettes, salads and grills. Address: Place Moulay Hassan Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 66 70 Cost: One course: 20 - 400 DH, 3 courses: 45 – 460 DH (April 2009) dar BABA First floor restaurant serving simple Italian food. Address: 2 Rue de Marrakech Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 68 09 Cost: One course: 35 DH, 3 courses: 105 – 165 DH (June 2008) Recommended by: Michelin 2007

restaurant BAB S'BAA A cavernous modern restaurant just outside the medina in a complex next to Hotel des Iles. They specialise in grilled fish and seafood but there are also some meat and Moroccan dishes. Address: Place La Rochelle, Complexe Bin Al Aswar Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 72 80 73 83/0 (0 212) 6 34 64 29 79 Cost: One course: 40 - 300 DH, 3 courses: 150 - 455 DH (January 2013)



restaurant BAB SKALA Set right in one of the walls of The Skala this little restaurant serves a short menu of Moroccan dishes. Address: La Skala Cost: Breakfast: 23 - 45 DH, 3 courses: 90 DH (October 2012)

café de la BAIE Suntrap by the beach. Good for lunch (panini, omelettes, crêpes, tajines, salads, pasta, grills) and watching watersports (equipment hire and lessons are available next door). Note: food is only served at set meal times and alcohol is only available with hot dishes. Address: Boulevard d Mohammed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 40 76 Cost: Breakfast: 30 DH, One course: 35 - 120 DH, 3 courses: 85 – 235 DH (November 2013)

Pasta BALADIN

Modern Italian-run pasta bar opposite the Alliance Française where you can mix and match from 5 types of pasta and 10 sauces, plus salads and desserts. Open daily except Monday: 12:00 - 14:00 and 19:00 - 23:00. Address: 48 Rue Laalouj Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 42 448 136 / 0 (0 212) 6 61 604 504 Website: www.riadbaladin.com Cost: One course: 25 - 65 DH, 3 courses: 95 - 115 DH (October 2012)

BAR Simple local drinking den attached to Chalet de la Plage. Locals tend to congregate inside whilst backpackers gather at sunset on the small terrace overlooking the beach. Open until 20:00. Address: 1 Boulevard Mohammed V (on the south side of Chalet de La Plage)

Recommended by: Time Out 2008 BEACH AND FRIENDS WiFi Laid back restaurant at the far end of the beach, in a complex just before the dunes. There is a large modern interior plus 'garden' outside with decking, comfortable settees, sunloungers and a play area for children. The international menu includes salads, sandwiches, pizzas, burgers, tapas and plats du jour. In the evening a blazing firebowl ensures that it is not too chilly. Address: Boulevard Mohamed V Cost: One course: 45 – 130 DH, 3 courses: 140 - 275 DH (October 2012)

BELDY Berber restaurant serving a good range of tajines, couscous and pastilla as well as set menus. No alcohol but you can bring your own. Open every day. Address: 6 Rue Ibn Toumerte Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 67 12 Cost: One course: 15 - 95 DH, 3 courses: 85 – 150 (March 2010) Recommended by: Routard 2010

BEN MOSTAFA Pavement café at the edge of Place Moulay Hassan. Serves breakfast, pizza, pasta, seafood, Moroccan dishes, omelettes and salads. Address: 20 Place Moulay Hassan Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 13 11 70 20 Cost: Breakfast:30 – 40 DH, One course: 15 – 80 DH, 3 courses 65 - 150 (November 2013) pâtisserie la BIENVENUE Elegant little pâtisserie/delicatessen which has a few interior tables (including a cosy salon area) where you can have tea or coffee with your gateaux. Also serves breakfast. Address: 7 Rue Abdelaziz El Fachtali (Chourej) Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 12 01 95 80/0 (0 212) 6 77 54 01 19 Cost: Breakfast: 25 – 35 DH (November 2010)



au BONHEUR DES DAMES WiFi Small French-run café - one of several with outside seating in the peaceful former Grain Market. A huge selection of teas, infusions and coffees (including decaffeinated), interesting fruit and vegetable cocktails, snacks and ice-cream are produced in a tiny kiosk and served at tables outside in the square. Lunch is a daily-changing menu of light and tasty dishes such as bruschetta with tapenade and goats cheese. Closed Sundays. Address: Place Marché aux Grains Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 59 68 Website: www.bonheurdesdames-essaouira.com Cost: Breakfast: 30 - 70 DH, One course: 60 - 65 DH (October 2012) Recommended by: Lonely Planet 2011, Routard 2010, Time Out 2008

café BOUAMAMA WiFi Bouâmama has two little cafés with outside tables - one at each end of the peaceful former grain market. Serves breakfast and lunchtime snacks such as omelettes, salads, grills and tajines. Address: Place Marché aux Grains Cost: Breakfast: 25 - 38 DH, One course: 14 - 65 DH, 3 courses: 39 - 70 (October 2012)

chez BRIXI WiFi One of several little cafés with outside tables in the peaceful former grain market. Serves a good breakfast, brunch and lunch (tajines, couscous, seafood, salads, crêpes etc). Address: 226 Place Marché aux Grains Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 61 72 10 32/0 (0 212) 5 24 78 53 71 Cost: Breakfast: 24 - 35 DH, Brunch: 55 DH, One course: 45 - 65, DH, 3 courses: 69 - 75 DH (November 2013)

la CANTINA Friendly little English-run café with a vaguely Mexican bias. Vegetarians are well catered for but there are also plenty of meat dishes, including their very popular home-made burgers. Home-made bread, scones and excellent cakes. They also do take-aways. Closed in the evenings and usually most of January/February. Address: 66 Rue Boutouil Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 45 15 Cost: One course: 40 - 65 DH, 3 courses: 55 - 75 DH (March 2013) Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009, Time Out 2008

CARAVANE CAFE

The small entrance in a lane opposite Pharmacie Alhaddadah leads to a buzzing riad full of modern and oriental art and sculpture. An eclectic international menu, tea and drinks are served from 14:00 until the evening every day except Sunday and Monday. Address: 2 bis Rue Cadi Ayad (opposite Pharmacie Alhaddadah) Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 31 11 Cost: One course: 45 - 250 DH, 3 courses: 135 - 366 DH (March 2013)

CAVERNE ALI BABA/LE RESTO Deceptively spacious restaurant (and hotel) at the end of an alley which doubles as a showroom for for the plate shop next door. Food is Moroccan, Italian, fish and omelettes. Address: 29 Avenue de l’Istiqal Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 53 54 Cost: One course, 15 – 80 DH, 3 courses: 65 – 155 DH (June 2008)

CHAABI CHIC WiFi A quirky restaurant cum antique shop on the edge of the little ‘square’ which links the medina’s two main walking streets. There are tables outside on the square, on the first floor squeezed in among antique doors and Moroccan bric-a-brac and on the rustic roof terrace (which is where the kitchen is). The food is mostly good Moroccan home cooking and the service is friendly. Address: 135 Rue du Mellah (off Rue Boutouil) Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 62 28 34 61 Cost: Breakfast: 40 DH, One course, 15 – 80 DH, 3 courses: 40 - 135 DH (November 2013)



CHALET DE LA PLAGE/CHEZ JEANNOT Long established (1924) and beautifully situated restaurant with a shady terrace jutting out over the beach (which is closed in the evening). The interior has a distincly period feed. Specialises in seafood. Gets busy at lunchtime and seats on the terrace go quickly so it is best to book if you want to sit there. Closed Sunday evening and Monday lunchtime. Address: 1 Boulevard Mohammed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 59 72 Cost: One course: 50 - 200 DH, 3 courses: 130 - 430 DH (January 2013) Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009, Michelin 2007, Time Out 2008

CHALET DE LA PLAGE CAFÉ WiFi On the medina side of Chalet de la Plage restaurant is an open terrace which, on calm days, is a good place for drinks. There is no obvious menu but you can request a limited range of dishes for breakfast (and sometimes lunch). The view is great! Address: 1 Boulevard Mohammed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 59 72 Cost: Breakfast: 30 DH (November 2013)

le CHRYSALIS A large modern restaurant just outside the medina in a modern complex next to Hotel des Iles. You can have meals in the spacious, luxuriously-decorated interior or snacks at the comfortable outside terrace. The rather pretentious menu features upmarket International dishes. Open 10:00 - 02:00. Live music from 23:00h. Address: Complexe Bin Al Aswar Tel: + 212 (0) 5 24 30 30 50 Website: www.lechrysalis.com Cost: One course: 60 - 240, 3 courses: 225 - 500 DH (March 2011)

la CLE DE VOUTE WiFi Run by the husband and wife team from d'Orient et d'Ailleurs this bright, stylish restaurant off Derb Laalouj serves excellent international cuisine with a French/Moroccan bias. Open from 11:30 and 18:30. Closed Sunday lunchtime and all day Saturday. Address: off Derb Laalouj Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 46 76 / 0 (0 212) 6 58 83 64 96 Cost: One course: 25 - 120 DH, 3 courses: 120 - 230 DH (November 2013)

le COQUILLAGE/RESTAURANT DU PORT Large restaurant with terrace overlooking the beach. Popular with coach parties. Address: Le Port d'Essaouira Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 66 55 Cost: One course: 60 – 230 DH, 3 courses: 115 - 380 DH (January 2007)

le CORAIL (CHEZ TARIK)

Small friendly restaurant tucked away in a corner of Place Chrib Atai (‘The Tent Square’). Tarik cooks, serves and clears up from a tiny kitchen screened from the indoor seating area by a trellis. There are also tables outside in the square for fine evenings. The simple menu consists mainly of fresh seafood but there are also pastillas ans vegetarian dishes. Address: Place Chrib Atai Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 67 16 92 93 Cost: One course: 15 – 90 DH, 3 courses: 45 – 122 DH (March 2013)

COTÉ PLAGE Upmarket restaurant next to the beach opposite Medina Hotel (formerly Sofitel Thalassa). Continental menu with some good seafood dishes. Address: Boulevard Mohammed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 90 00 Cost: One course: 75 - 195 DH, 3 courses: 235 – 435 (November 2008) Recommended by: Lonely Planet 2011, Michelin 2007, Routard 2010, Time Out 2008



le CRÊPERIE MOGADOR Cheerful little crêperie where you can eat at pine tables in the yellow interior or outside facing Place Chrib Attay (the one with the tent). Serves a good range of savoury and sweet crêpes and bolées (pottery bowls) of cider (but no other alcohol). Open 12:00 – 15:00 and 19:00 – 22:00 except Fridays. Address: Rue Laâlouj Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 30 96 Cost: Crêpes: 20 – 60 DH, ½ jug of cider (Brevage de pommes) 55 DH (November 2008) Recommended by: Routard 2010

DAR JEELING Basic café with outside tables on a sheltered part of Place Chrib Attay/El Khaima (the one with the tent). Serves breakfast, snacks, crêpes etc. Address: 22 Place Chrib Attay Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 66 10 10 32 Cost: One course: 40 - 80 DH, Three courses: 45 - 70 DH (March 2010) le DAUPHIN

Simple little down a covered alleyway which links the medina’s two main shopping streets. Décor is fairly basic but the Moroccan home cooking is sound. Address: Rue Sidi Abdessamih

Cost: One course: 15 - 70 DH, Three courses: 50 – 120 DH (April 2009)

la DÉCOUVERTE WiFi Tiny French-run restaurant with just six tables inside and two outside. Serves a simple menu of mainly Moroccan dishes with an emphasis on fresh local ingredients. Daily specialities such as royal couscous with camel meat are advertised on a blackboard at the end of the lane. Also has vegetarian specialities. Desserts might include lemon meringue pie or Moroccan pastries. Open 10 am to 10 pm every day except Saturday. Usually closes in January. Address: 8 bis Rue Houmman el Fatouki Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 31 58 Website: www.essaouira-ladecouverte.com Cost: One course: 10 – 80 DH, 3 courses: 55 – 125 DH (November 2010) Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009

DELICES ET SAVERURS DE MOGADOR WiFi The outside tables (there is also comfortable inside seating) are a good place to watch the world go buy in the little ‘square’ which links the medina’s two main walking streets. The menu includes seafood, Moroccan and Italian dishes. Address: 60 Rue Boutouil Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 21 67 / 0 (0 212) 6 52 21 49 61 Cost: One course:25 - 85, 3 courses: 65 – 200 DH (November 2013)

DIABAT Café Tiny brightly-painted ‘hippy’ café with tables overlooking the building site which is now Diabat beach (about 3 miles south of Essaoura, along the beach). Serves tajines etc. Can also organise camel rides. Address: Diabat

gelateria DOLCE FREDDO Café/gelateria on Place Moulay Hassan. Good for Italian coffee (including decaffinated) and a range of icecreams. Also offers a limited breakfast menu (or just order coffee and have a take-away from Patisserie Driss, followed by a 5 DH juice from the kiosk by the harbour). Open 07:30 – 22:00 daily. Address: 25 Place Moulay Hassan Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 63 57 19 28 Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009, Lonely Planet 2011, Rough Guide 2007, Time Out 2008



patisserie DRISS Patisserie founded in 1925. Serves croissants, tarts and cakes which can be eaten with coffee in the small sheltered courtyard, one of two picture-lined rooms or taken to one of the cafés on Place Moulay Hassan. Breakfast (popular with locals), which includes omelettes and crêpes, can be eaten in or taken away. Also does pastilla (must be ordered in advance) and pizza. Address: 10 Rue El Hajal Cost: Breakfast: 21 - 30 DH, Pastilla: 150 - 270 DH, Pizza: 70 DH (October 2012), Recommended by: Lonely Planet 2011, Michelin 2007, Rough Guide 2007, Routard 2010, Time Out 2008

le DUPLEX Minimalist fresh modern interior on two levels. The food, which is a mixture of Moroccan, seafood, French and Italian, is delightfully presented and served. Address: 22 Rue Skala Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 50 83 Cost: One course: 35 - 120 3 courses: 95 - 195

ELIZIR ‘Idiosyncratic cool’ is Time Out 2008’s perfect description of the interior of this quirky first floor restaurant which the owner has decorated with great originality using an eclectic and quirky range of flea market finds, retro furniture and modern art. The short menu features excellent and innovative Moroccan/Italian style dishes including home-made pasta and gnocchi. black cuttlefish risotto and a popular balsamic steak. Portions, including the complimentary starter, are generous. Cosy fire in winter; roof terrace in summer. Booking advisable. Address: 1 Rue d’Agadir Essaouira – Maroc Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 21 03 Website: www.elizir.com Cost: One course: 60 - 180 DH, 3 courses: 260 – 305 DH (November 2013) Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009, Lonely Planet 2011, Routard 2010, Time Out 2008

ESSALAM Popular little terrace restaurant with small terrace overlooking the lively Place Moulay Hassan. Budget set meals: soup or salad, then omelette, fish, couscous or tajine and dessert. Address: Place Moulay Hassan Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 55 48 Cost: Breakfast: 15 DH, 3 courses: about 30 - 65 DH (March 2009) Recommended by: Rough Guide 2007, Routard 2010

Café EZZAWIA/Chez BELHAJ

Snack bar plus open-fronted restaurant at the top end of the 'tourist' street. Simple Morocccan food and occasional Gnawa music Address: 168 Avenue Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdellah Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 0264 85 50 / 0 (0 212) 6 01 92 10 93 Cost: One course: 5 - 70 DH, 3 courses: 55 - 110 DH (October 2011)

restaurant FAMILIALE A short lane leads to a cavernous arched interior sparsely decorated with red banquette seating and neatly-laid low tables. The cooking, which is described as 'typical Berber cuisine with argan oil' is pretty good. Address: 8 Rue Ibnou Toumate (off Derb Laalouj) Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 45 31 / 0 (0 212) 6 62 35 36 49 Cost: One course: 20 - 180 DH, 3 courses: 75 - 235 DH (November 2010)

FANATIC Popular bistro-style café with terrace overlooking the beach. Excellent breakfasts (one is ample for two people), coffee and good lunches. Food is mainly French/Moroccan cuisine seafood and grills. Can get very busy at lunch time. Open 08:00 – 23:00 daily. Address: Boulevard Mohammed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 50 08 Cost: Breakfast: 40 DH, One course: 40 – 120 DH, 3 courses: 135 - 360 DH (March 2013) Recommended by: Time Out 2008



al FARACHAH (the BUTTERFLY) Elegantly decorated riad with tables dotted around the cosy (covered) courtyard. The excellent food, which is a modern French take on traditional Morocccan dishes, is imaginative and well-presented. You can also get a variety of light meals (assiettes) and drinks in the bar on the upper level - Le Petit Papillon from 18:00. Closed Saturday. Address: 24 Rue Iraq Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 45 20 / 0 (0 212) 6 60 74 12 52 Cost: One course: 50 – 180 DH, 3 courses: 200 -535 DH (March 2013)

FATAFEAT MOGADOR Simple Moroccan food cooked in a minute kitchen and served at a low communal table. Live music most nights. Address: Rue Malik Ben Morhal (off Avenue de l'Istiqal) Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 06 16 25 79/0 (0212) 6 99 33 41 52 Cost: One course: 40 - 60 DH (January 2013) FERDAOUSS First floor restaurant well known for good value Moroccan home cooking. Open 12:30 – 14:30 and 18:30 – 23:00 except Mondays. Address: 27 Rue Abdessalam Lebadi Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 36 55 Cost: One course: 35 – 65 DH, 3 courses: 110 DH (March 2010) Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009, Lonely Planet 2011, Michelin 2007, Routard 2010, Time Out 2008

FOUR (4) SAISONS DE MOGADOR

Narrow restaurant on four floors with a roof terrace providing an interesting view of Avenue de l’Istiqual, the medina’s main thoroughfare. The extensive menu includes pizza (downstairs only), snacks, seafood, pasta and Moroccan specialities. Address: Avenue de l’Istiqal Cost: One course: 8 - 90 DH, 3 courses: 48 – 150 (March 2013)

café de FRANCE Founded in 1917, Café de France is one of the oldest and most characterful cafés on Place Moulay Hassan. Popular with locals for mint tea and coffee. Does not do food at lunchtime but serves a limited breakfast menu until 10:00. In the evening, serves pizza, pasta, seafood, Moroccan dishes, omelettes and salads . Address: Place Moulay Hassan Cost: Breakfast: 20 DH, One course: 13 – 40 DH (March 2011)

chez FRANÇOISE French-run café and tea room with 2 long banquettes on opposite walls and 8 tiny tables in between. There are also a couple of small tables in the road outside. Françoise serves a simple menu of soup, sweet and savoury tarts and crêpes. Pictures by local artists line the walls. Address: 1 Rue Hoummam El Fatouaki Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 68 16 40 87 Cost: One course: 20 – 65 DH, 3 courses: 75 – 85 DH (March 2011) Recommended by: Michelin 2007

chez les FRERES Cheerful and laid back little place run by two enthusiastic brothers. Freshly-made pizza, pasta and Moroccan dishes incuding specialities, some of which have to be ordered in advance. You can eat in the restaurant at traditonal banquettes and low tables or take away. Address: 3 Bia, Rue sidi Mgdoul Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 58 25 or 0 (0 212) 6 72 38 88 96 Cost: Breakfast: 20 – 25 DH, One course: 10 - 70 DH, 3 courses: 45 - 120 DH (November 2008)



les GARGOTTES (GRILLED SEAFOOD STALLS)

An L-shaped group of blue and white stalls where you can choose from displays of freshly-caught seafood then have it expertly cooked over charcoal and simply served with a bread (and, if you have a strong constitution, a tasty salad). If you are after a cheap lunch beware of inadvertently choosing a large prime fish (prices per kg are fixed and listed on a board at the end of the row so you may want to check first). For a good value meal specify the maximum price that you are prepared to pay - 60 DH per person will buy quite a feast. Open 11:00 – 16:00 daily. Address: Le Port d'Essaouira Cost: E.g. Sardines: 3 for 10 DH, mixture: 60 DH, Lobster: 400 DH per kilo (January 2010) Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009, Lonely Planet 2011, Michelin 2007, Rough Guide 2007, Routard 2010, Time

Out 2008

GINGER CAFE

Small café serving delicious healthy food with a Spanish bias. The menu includes teas, coffees, smoothies, cakes, sandwiches and daily specialities (e.g. tortilla, humous). You can eat in the bright modern interior or at a couple of low tables outside. Also has information on activities such as 4x4 adventures. Open 09:00 – 19:00 (later in summer) daily except Sunday Address: 8 Rue Ibn Rochid Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 51 20 Website: www.gingermorocco.com Cost: Breakfast: 30 - 35 DH, One course: 30 - 50 DH (March 2013)

le GLACIER Small café/pizzeria at the heart of the medina. Good for people-watching from outside tables which catch the sun at breakfast time. Simple menu of salads, omelettes, pizza, pasta and tajines. Also does take-aways. Address: On the corner of Rue Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdelah and Rue Laâlouj

Cost: Breakfast: 25 - 35 DH, One course: 15 - 45 DH, 3 courses: 50 DH (November 2013)

GNAWA BLUES Trendy little café where you can get a substantial breakfast, salads, seafood, Italian and good Moroccan dishes. You can sit outside overlooking Place El Menzah (provided it isn’t windy as there isn't much shelter) or in the tiny interior. Gnawa music most evenings. Address: Avenue Oqba Ben Nafia Cost: Breakfast: 30, One course: 20 - 120 DH, 3 courses: 80 - 175DH (November 2013)

le GRAND LARGE Atmospheric little tea salon and restaurant with exposed stone walls and arches. Serves fish, pizza, tajines and couscous. Address: 2 Rue Oum Rabia Tel: + 212 (0) 5 24 47 28 66 Website: www.riadlegrandlarge.com

Cost: One course: about 80 DH (November 2007)

GREEN WOK THAI

If you fancy a change from tajines this tiny, spotlessly clean, café just off Place Moulay Hassan is well worth a try for tasty Thai food in simple surroundings. Food is skilfully cooked at an open kitchen at the end and served with enthusiasm by the two young proprietors. Open 1130-1530 and 1830-2230 (1430 -2200 on Friday). Closed Monday. Address: 6 rue El Hajjali, Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 30 28 Cost: One course: 15 - 85 DH, 3 courses: 80 - 155 (January 2013)



l’HEURE BLEU PALAIS Upmarket restaurant on the ground floor of the smartest hotel in town - a large riad decorated in a mixture of colonial and European country house style. You can eat in the panelled dining room or, on warm evenings, in the romantic courtyard (Salon Anglais). The menu is modern international cuisine with subtle Moroccan touches. Cooking is of a very high standard with subtle blending of flavours and excellent presentation. The hotel also has a pleasant café/bar by the roof-top pool (the pool is not open to non-residents) where you can get salads, sandwiches, grills, ice-cream and drinks. Open: Main restaurant 19:30 – 22:00, Rooftop café 12:30 – 16:30 Address: 2 Rue Ibn Batouta, Bab Marrakech Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 34 34 Website: www.heure-bleue.com Cost: One course: 110 - 415 DH 3 courses: 580 – 950 DH (March 2013) Recommended by: Routard 2010

l’HORLOGE Outside tables in a small leafy square surrounded by a display of Moroccan lamps and rugs from nearby shops. Simple menu consisting of tajines, couscous and omelettes. Service can be unenthusiastic but the the Malian music from the CD shop next door is very atmospheric. Address: Place Chefchaouni Cost: Breakfast: 17 – 25 DH, One course: 10 – 60 DH (November 2010)

Recommended by: Lonely Planet 2011, Michelin 2007, Routard 2010

dar al HOUMA Deceptively spacious candlelit restaurant amongst the carpet sellers between Place Moulay Hassan and Place Chefchaouni. Seafood, omelettes, pasta and Moroccan dishes are served in three fabric-lined rooms with banquette seating. An alternative budget choice if you can’t get a table in the popular Laayoune opposite. Address: 9 Rue El Hajjali Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 33 87 Cost: One course: 10 - 80 DH, 3 courses: 33 - 153 DH (October 2010) Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009

café JALIL

Tiny hole in the wall snack bar offering simple but delicious Moroccan food to take away (bring your own container) or eat at one of two tiny tables outside. The menu is simple (tajine du jour, lentils, omelette and Friday couscous) but they will also cook any tajine to order given two hours notice. Address: Rue Siyaghine Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 58 37 69 56 Cost: One course: 6 - 20 DH (October 2012)

le JOLI COIN

Popular little café and take-away just round the corner from Place Moulay Hassan Specialises in take-away pizza, kebabs and sandwiches. Address: 21 Rue El Hajjali Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 37 94 Cost: One course: 10 – 40 DH (November 2007)

al KARMA A narrow entrance next to the vegetable souk leads to a tranquil oasis where you can sit in the sun under palm and fig trees. The simple menu consists of salad, grilled fish or chicken and tajines which you eat Moroccan-style with your fingers. Alternatively you can take your own meat or fish to be grilled over charcoal. Address: off Souk Jedid Cost: 3 courses; 45 - 100 DH, BYO grills: 5 – 20 DH (March 2013)



el KHAIMA (THE TENT) Surprisingly spacious and cosy restaurant based around a Moroccan tent. Multiligual menu (with some amusing translations!) includes salads, omelettes, pizza, seafood and French/Moroccan food Address: Place Chrib Attai/Place El Khaima (off Rue Laâlouj) Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 60 52 Cost: One course: 20 – 120 DH, 3 courses; 65 - 210 DH (November 2008)

al KHANSAA Riad restored by an artistic Moroccan family with unusual and eclectic taste. The dining area cum art gallery is dominated by a unique fountain sculpture and fantasy fireplace. Simple set menus with a limited choice of mainly Moroccan food. Open every day until 23:00. Address: 60-62 Rue Touahen Tel: + 212 (0) 5 24 47 66 17 Website: www.hotelriad-alkhansaa.com

Cost: 3 courses: 100 - 150 DH (November 2007)

chez KHERFA Two entrances lead to this colourful little terrace restaurant overlooking Derb Laalouj on one side and Place Chrib Attay/El Khaima on the other. Simple menu of omletettes, pasta, tajines etc. Address: Derb Laalouj Cost: Breakfast: 25 - 45 DH, One course: 10 - 60 DH, Three courses: 35 - 130 DH (March 2010)

LAAYOUNE Very popular little restaurant among the carpet shops between Place Moulay Hassan and Place Chefchaouni. Serves good value Moroccan food, crêpes, omelettes and fish. Banquette seating with low tables, a relaxed atmosphere and efficient service. Turnaround is rapid so it is often worth waiting for a table to became available (but not so good if you want o make an evening of it). Closed on Friday. Address: 4 bis Rue El Hajjali Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 46 43 Cost: One course: 10 – 70 DH, 3 courses: 32 - 118 DH (January 2012) Recommended by: Michelin 2007, Rough Guide 2007, Routard 2010

LALLA MIRA Bright yellow restaurant on the ground floor of a German-run hotel attached to the oldest hammam in town. Serves organic food from the hotel’s own farm inculding vegetarian and fish-based 3-course menus, omelettes and tajines. Open 07:30 – 11:00, 12:00 – 14:30 and 19:00 22:00. Booking advisable for non-residents. Address: 14 Rue d’Algerie Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 50 46 Website: www.lallamira.net Cost: Breakfast: 20 – 60 DH, One course: 6 - 150 DH, 3 courses: 90 - 140 DH (November 2008)

la LICORNE Spacious restaurant with baronial style Moroccan décor (deep red tadelakt walls, dark carved wood, exotic lighting). Good Moroccan/French fusion cuisine served by charming waitresses. Closed Mondays and part of January Address: 26 Rue Skala Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 36 26 Website: www.lalicorne-essaouira.com

Cost: One course: 45 - 130 DH, 3 courses: 160 – 285 DH (November 2010)

dar LOUBANE On the ground floor of an historic mansion. French-Moroccan cuisine and seafood is served in the patio or one of the interior dining rooms. Booking advisable for the Saturday night Gnaoua evenings (audience participation expected!). Open 12:00 – 14:30 and 19:00 – 22:00 except Wednesdays. Address: 24 Rue de Rif Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 62 96 Cost: Tapas: 10 - 40 DH, One course: 10 – 120 DH, 3 courses: 85 - 255 DH (March 2012) Recommended by: Michelin 2007, Rough Guide 2007, Routard 2010



LOUBOU’S LOUNGE A large modern restaurant/lounge/nightclub just outside the medina in a modern complex next to Hotel des Iles. The tables surround a circular dance floor with subdued lighting and four screens showing music videos. Wide curving stairs lead to an upstairs bar. Drinks, and the food on the short international menu, are pricey. Happy hour until 22:00 and live music from about 22:00 - 00:30 most evenings. Address: 32 lot Complexe Bin Al Aswar Tel: + 212 (0) 5 24 78 48 72 Website: www.loubousessaouira.com Cost: One course: 65 - 175, 3 courses: 225 - 450 DH (November 2010)

riad al MADINA Former hippy café transformed into an attractive and colourful hotel at the heart of the medina. You can eat in the attractive courtyard at the centre of the riad or in the comfortable dining room on two levels. International menu. Live music on Wednesday and Saturday. Address: 9 Rue Attarine Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 59 07 Cost: 3 courses 300 DH (October 2011)

MAISON DU CINEMA Tastefully decorated building which at 20:30 serves a 3-course meal and film (usually in French). Booking recommended for best seats, such as the settee in from of the fire. Wine is relatively expensive. Address: 14 Rue Laalouj Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 48 51 or 0 (0 212) 6 71 53 83 77 Website: www.lamaisonducinema.net

Cost: 3 courses: 75 DH (November 2013)

MAISON DU SUD Deceptively spacious restaurant/hotel/art gallery on the main pedestrian street just north of Place Moulay Hassan. A basic 3-course set menu is served in a choice of well-furnished seating areas. Address: Avenue Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdalah

Cost: 3 courses: 90 DH (March 2009)

MALAK

Youthful ground floor restaurant serving Moroccan home cooking accompanied by occasional Gnawa music. Address: 7 Rue Moussef Ben Tchfine Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 53 44 62 07 Cost: One course: 15 - 80 DH, 3 courses: 73 - 165 DH (March 2011)

la MAMA Small first-floor trattoria/pizzeria/café. Has five tables in the cosy interior and a few more on the terrace outside. Friendly atmosphere and assertive Sicilian style cuisine. Address: 31 Place Chrib Attay Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 68 16 40 69 or 0 (0 212) 6 77 54 24 86 Cost: One course: 20 - 100 DH, 3 courses: 85 - 160 DH (July 2012)

le MAMOUCHE

Enormous restaurant and lounge bar in the new town, just behind Hotel Medina (formerly Sofitel). Opulent interior decor and a pleasant sheltered garden for drinks. International cuisine. Open 19:30 - 02:30 daily. Bellydancing at 21:30 and 23:00. and DJ from 23:00 on Friday and Saturday. Happy hours 19:30 - 20:30 and 22:30 - 23:30. Address: 6 Rue Moukaouama Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 49 00/ 0 (0 212) 6 61 37 51 88 Website: www.lemamouche.com Email: [email protected] Cost: One course 70 - 295 DH, 3 courses: 240 - 455 DH (January 2012)



il MARE WiFi Large café, bar and restaurant with roof terraces overlooking the ramparts and Atlantic Ocean, one of which includes a cosy tented area. Serves seafood, Moroccan, French and Italian specialities. Food is good but relatively expensive. Has live music most evenings. Address: 43 Rue Yamen (Skala) Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 64 17 Website: www.ilmaressaouira.com Cost: One course 65 - 450 DH, 3 courses: 180 - 640 DH (October 2011) Recommended by: Routard 2010

café MARRAKECH/El FAID Serves breakfast (including omelettes and crêpes), Lunch/dinner includes pizza, pasta, seafood, Moroccan dishes, omelettes and salads. Address: Place Moulay Hassan

Cost: Breakfast: 25 - 40 DH, One course: 15 - 60 DH (March 2013)

le MECHOUAR You can dine throughout the day in the large dimly lit dining room (with large screen TVs) or at tables outside overlooking the town's main pedestrian thoroughfare. Offers breakfast, lunch, dinner, late night drinks, DJs and live music. Drinks are available without meals in the restaurant or on the front terrace. Address: Avenue Oqba Ben Nafia Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 58 28 Website: www.lemechouar.com Cost: Breakfast: 30 - 50 DH, One course: 60 - 230 DH, 3 courses: 180 - 365 DH (January 2013)

residence el MEHDI Deceptively large riad hotel halfway along a covered alleyway which links the medina’s two main shopping streets. The ground floor bar, which is open to non-residents, has a diverse choice of seating areas with décor ranging from colourful Moroccan to cosy and colonial. Address: 15 Rue Sidi Abdessamih Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 44 47 59 43 Website: www.residenceelmehdi.com el MENZAH (el MINZAH)

The restaurant, which is situated beneath Palazzo Desdemona, is in a large room with impressive interlinked stone arches. The menu is mainly Moroccan/French/Italian with good seafood specialities. There is a separate TV bar at the back which can be accessed either through the restaurant or directly via an unmarked door opposite Madada Hotel and restaurant. Address: 3 Avenue Okba Ibn Nafia Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 53 08 Cost: One course: 50 – 220 DH, 3 courses: 145 – 325 DH (November 2009) Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009, Lonely Planet 2011, Routard 2010

chez MERMOZ Friendly restaurant (run by Marine and Nourdine) where you can eat in the first floor salon, under a ground level canopy or at a couple of tables outside in Place Chrib Attay. The relatively extensive menu includes Moroccan food, omelettes and pasta. Address: 5 Place Chrib Attay (off Rue Laâlouj) Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 19 01 04 96 Cost: One course: 15 – 80 DH, 3 courses: 45 – 123 DH (November 2010)

MIYAME RESTO Housed in a former Koranic school close to the food souks this simple little family-run restaurant serves grills, seafood and excellent tajines, plus couscous on Friday/Saturday. Seats about 10 people at low tables, plus an extra four by the entrance. Service is laid-back and friendly. While not everything on the short menu may be available, the ingredients are fresh and the cooking can be very good indeed. Booking recommended (as is the apple tart when it is available!). Usually closes on Sunday. Address: 19 Rue Jbala Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 55 58 79 61/0 (0 212) 6 73 59 11 48 Cost: One course: 6 - 80 DH, 3 courses: 46 - 130 DH (November 2013)



café/restaurant MOGADOR (BAR MOG) Well-run little café on the seafront boulevard with inside and outside eating areas. Popular with locals and tourists alike. Serves breakfast,Moroccan dishes, seafood, snacks and daily specialities. Address: Boulevard Mohammed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 32 36 Cost: One course: 15 – 180 DH, 3 courses: 65 – 245 DH (November 2009)

le MOGADORIEN

Deceptively spacious restaurant within a building dating back to the 18th century. Bright banquette seating under stone arches. Moroccan cuisine and seafood served by friendly, English-speaking waiters. Address: 7 Place Chefchaouni Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 49 50 or 0 (0 212) 6 61 20 70 57 Website: www.lemogadorien.c.la Cost: One course: 15 – 95 DH, 3 courses: 60 – 185 DH (March 2010)

la MOUETTE D’ESSAOUIRA A sunny café on the harbour side of Place Moulay Hassan. Menu includes juices, soups, salads, pizzas, tajines and couscous. Also does take-away pizza. One of the few places in town to serve good decaffienated coffee. Address: Place Moulay Hassan Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 47 05 Cost: Breakfast: 25 DH, One course: 40 - 60 DH, 3 courses: 100 - 130 DH (January 2013)

dar MOUNIA Centrally situated hotel with a ground floor restaurant serving a range of Moroccan, French, Italian and seafood dishes. The square room is subtly decorated with an array of metal ceiling lanterns, zelliges and tadelakt. Address: 2 Rue Laalouj Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 29 88 Cost: One course: 25 - 95 DH, 3 courses: 70 - 200 DH (March 2010)

M’RISTE JOUHAR Family-run restaurant serving good Moroccan food, including some interesting specialities as well as a vegetarian set menu. The mixture of Moroccan salads for starter is particularly recommended. Elegant Moroccan décor and friendly service. Address: 6 Rue Mohamed Diouri (off Derb Laalouj) Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 58 54 Website: www.restaurant-mriste-jouhar.com Cost: One course: 25 – 85 DH, 3 courses: 80 – 150 (November 2013)

MUMTAZ MAHAL

Beautifully restored riad and hammam close to Madada Hotel and Restaurant. There is no restaurant but non-residents can admire the craftsmanship by having a drink in the sumptuous bar. Address: 5 Rue Youssef El Fassi Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 53 00 Website: www.riadmumtazmahal.com

le NECTAR

Brightly-decorated restaurant with banquette seating inside or 3 tables outside overlooking El Khaima (the tent). The menu is the usual mix of seafood, Moroccan and Italian dishes. Open 11:00 – 15:00 and 19:00 – 23:00h Address: 14 – 15 Place Chrib Attai/Place El Khaima (off Rue Laâlouj) Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 54 85 Cost: One course: 10 – 95 DH, 3 courses: 40 – 180 DH (November 2009)



NUAMEN Nuâmen is a local-run restaurant with blue and white-tiled walls and low pine tables which, together with the bright lighting, give it a rather clinical feel. Moroccan cooking with an emphasis on pulses (but not necessarily vegetarian). Address: rue Khader Ghallan(opposite Rue Ceuta) Cost: One course: 15 - 80 DH, 3 courses: 65 – 145 DH (November 2010)

O'BLEU MOGADOR Run by French master chef Serge Puzin and his wife this cosy restaurant offers a short well-chosen menu of fusion dishes served with French flair. It is (literally) quite a find in the heart of the medina's Chbanat area - they are happy to send a guide to show you the way or you can follow the dicreet signs from Rue Mohamed El Qorry. Address: 23 Rue Bouchentouf Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 31 33 Cost: One course: 90 - 180 DH, 3 courses: 225 - 390 DH, 5 course tasting menu: 390 DH (January 2013)

OCEAN VAGABOND BEACH CAFÉ A healthy 30 minute walk down the beach from the medina. Good for relaxed café-style lunches (blackboard specialities, paninis, pizzas, burgers, chips) and watching, or participating in, watersports (Club Mistral is next door), horse or camel riding. Sunloungers and deckchairs make this a wonderfully laid back place to have lunch or a drink – and the walk along the beach is lovely. Address: Boulevard Mohamed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 39 34 Website: www.oceanvagabond.com Cost: One course: 40 - 120 DH, 3 courses: 95 - 240 DH (November 2013) Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009, Lonely Planet 2011, Michelin 2007, Routard 2010

OCEAN VAGABOND HOTEL Serves good, attractively presented, food in a modern African-themed dining room or in a peaceful garden by the small swimming pool. The menu includes interesting salads, omelettes, sandwiches, burgers and tajines. Open to non residents from 11:00 to 23:00. Diners can use the pool for free. Address: boulevard Lalla Aïcha Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 92 22 Website: www.oceanvagabond.com

Cost: One course: 35 – 110 DH, 3 courses: 95 – 230 DH, childrens menu: 70 DH (May 2009)

OPERA DU SUD Café/restaurant with tables on Place Moulay as well as a relatively smart interior (and good loos!). The menu is the the standard mixture of French, Moroccan, Italian and seafood dishes. Address: 12 Place Moulay Hassan Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 59 25 Cost: Breakfast: 25 DH, One course: 500 - 220 DH, 3 courses: 110 - 350 DH (January 2013)

d’ ORIENT ET D’AILLEURS A deceptively spacious restaurant with tasteful understated décor and lighting. A simple menu of well presented and expertly cooked modern French/Moroccan food is served with enthusiasm by the Swiss/French proprietors, Liliana and Lawrence. The three course set menu is particularly good value and the list of Moroccan wines is better than most. Closed on Saturday. Booking advisable. Address: 67 bis, Rue Touahen Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 59 77 Website: www.dorientetdailleurs.com Cost: One course: 50 – 160 DH, 3 courses: 90 – 490 (November 2013) Recommended by: Routard 2010



l'OR VERT Deceptively large, comfortably furnished restaurant opposite Place Chrib Attay. The menu is the usual mix of seafood, Moroccan and Italian dishes. Address: 5 Rue Laalouj Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 54 85 Cost: One course: 10 – 130 DH, 3 courses: 57 – 213 (October 2012)

chez el OUAZZANI Little more than a counter with a few chairs, this café is recommended for no-nonsense authentic Moroccan cooking at bargain prices. On Friday you can do as the locals do - take your own dish along for a helping of their excellent couscous then return to your apartment for a relaxed lunch with family and friends (or if you prefer it for dinner buy at lunch time and reheat later). Address: 88 Rue Mohammed el Qory Cost: One course: 3 - 30 DH, 3 courses: 20 – 40 (November 2013) Recommended by: Routard 2010

dar l’OUSSIA A large riad-syle hotel with ground floor restaurant and separate bar. You can also get drinks on the comfortable roof terrace which has great views of the beach. The elegant vaulted dining room, which has cosy fires in winter, overlooks the tranquil courtyard with its flower-filled fountain. The menu features mainly Moroccan dishes, of which only a few may be available on any particular night. Address: Rue Mohamed Ben Masoud Cost: One course: 50 - 150, 3 courses: 200 - 290 DH (January 2013)

Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009

Le PANORAMIQUE A healthy 30 minute walk down the beach from the medina this modern café/restaurant is situated in the café/watersports complex which is creeping north from Ocean Vagabond Beach Café. A range of snacks and meals are served in the rather soul-less interior, the shady terrace or at brightly-coloured plastic chairs and tables in the garden overlooking the beach. Open 12:00 – 15:00 h and 19:00 - 22:30 h. Address: Boulevard Mohamed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 59 56 Cost: Breakfast: 24 - 34 DH, One course: 25 - 50 DH, 3 courses: 63 - 93 (October 2012)

le PATIO Popular restaurant with atmospheric red and black Moroccan décor, romantic lighting and charming staff. A daily-changing blackboard menu of modern French/Moroccan specialities, including excellent fish dishes is brought to each table. Lighting can be just a bit too subtle so it is a good idea to bring a torch to read the menu and wine list. Open 18:30 – 23:00 every day except Monday. Also has a small tapas bar (open from 17:30) where you can get a drink without ordering a full meal. Usually has live background music on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Address: 28 bis Rue Moulay Rachid Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 41 66 Cost: Tapas: 35 DH, One course: 65 - 130 DH, 3 courses: 215 - 270 DH (November 2013) Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009, Lonely Planet 2011, Michelin 2007, Routard 2010, Time Out 2008

la PETITE ALGUE

Restaurant/café/bar just across the road from the beach (about 10 minutes walk from the medina, above Aigue Marine). Has four main areas: a ‘local’ restaurant, a bar with TV, a ‘tourist’ restaurant and an attractive terrace overlooking the beach (not all are open all of the time). Serves Moroccan food, seafood and snacks. Address: Boulevard Mohamed V

Cost: One course: 30 - 140 DH, 3 courses: 80 - 270 DH (March 2009)



la PETITE PERLE D’ESSAOUIRA Basic Moroccan food served at low tables with banquette seating. Address: 2 Rue Hajjali Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 50 50 Cost: 3 courses: 55 - 95 DH (November 2007)

Recommended by:Michelin 2007, Rough Guide 2007, Routard 2010

RAMSESS Family-run restaurant serving French/Moroccan food with a vaguely Egyption theme. The two lively sisters who serve both speak excellent English. Sometimes has Gnawa music. Address: 18 Rue Ibn Rochid Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 21 39 Cost: 3 courses: 165 DH (March 2013) La RENCONTRE

A bright red staircase leads to this modern red, white and black restaurant on two floors. The food includes Italian, Moroccan and seafood specialities. There are good views of the ramparts from the terrace, where you can also have a drink without food. Address: 88 Rue Laalouj Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 21 63 Cost: One course: 30 - 100 DH, 3 courses: 110– 240 DH (March 2012)

palais de REMPARTS

Elegant riad hotel which is open to non-residents for evening meals. The menu is all Moroccan, including some unusual dishes such as tajine of lamb with artichoke and petits pois. Address: 18 Rue Ibn Rochid Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 51 10 / 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 35 35 Cost: One course: 25 - 160 DH, 3 courses: 90 - 270 DH (March 2013)

restaurant des REVES Centrally situated first floor restaurant just off Avenue Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdullah. The two long dining salons are comfortably furnished with velvet covered banquettes. The menu includes Moroccan and Italian dishes, grills and seafood. Address: Rue Sidi Ahmed Ouharon Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 47 50 / 0 (0 212) 6 68 67 02 Cost: One course: 35 - 250 DH, 3 courses: 75 - 400 DH (October 2012)

SAFRAN WiFi One of the larger cafés in the old grain market. In addition to the usual tables in the square itself there is a small first floor terrace with inside and outside seating, the latter offering fascinating views over the medina. Serves mainly seafood and Moroccan dishes. The spice shop next door is good place to buy genuine Moroccan saffron (60 DH/gram). Address: Place Marché Aux Grains Cost: Breakfast: 24 - 36, Brunch: 69 DH, One course: 20 - 99 DH, 3 courses: 65 - 209 DH (November 2013)

dar SALTANE Deceptively large café/restaurant with courtyard and fountain. Good value Moroccan food. Does not serve alcohol but you can take your own. Address: 7 Rue Abdellah Chefchaouni Tel: 0 (0 212)5 24 47 59 73 Cost: 3 courses:: 58 - 98 DH (November 2007)



chez SAM Famous wooden boat-like building jutting out into the harbour with great views of the fishing fleet. You can eat in the small enclosed terrace (booking advisable), the cosy 1950s style ground floor dining room or the more spacious top floor. No-nonsense cooking, mostly seafood cooked in a variety of ways, with decent-sized portions. Open 12:00 – 15:30 and 10:00 – 23:30 daily. Address: Le port d'Essaouira Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 4762 38 Cost: One course: 30 - 250, 3 courses: 85 - 370 DH (July 2012) Recommended by: Rough Guide 2007, Footprint Africa 2009, Michelin 2007, Time Out 2008

le SEVEN (7)

Up-market beach-side restaurant opposite (and part of) the Atlas Hotel, a healthy walk along the beach from the medina. The short, rather unadventurous, menu features mainly seafood, but you can also get snacks such as pizza, burgers, paninis and club sandwiches at certain times of day. Friendly, professional service. A good selection of (expensive) wines. A comfortable place for a beer at sunset. Other restaurants at the Atlas Hotel are Le Safran (Moroccan) and Les Alizés (international) – see separate entries. Address: Boulevand Mohammed V Cost: One course: 60 - 200 DH, 3 courses: 270 – 350 DH (July 2012)

SHYADMA VEGAN Simple vegan café in Place Chrib Attay. Offers some interesting dishes (such as quince tajine) which are cooked from scratch so be prepared for a long wait. Address: Place Chrib Attay Cost: Breakfast: 23 DH, One course: 15 – 50 DH, 3 courses: 75 – 105 (March 2013)

SICILIA Friendly pavement café at the top of Place Moulay Hassan. A good place to people-watch over breakfast or with mint tea/coffee and a pastry from Patisserie Driss, which is next door. Address: Place Moulay Hassan Cost: Breakfast: 23 DH (November 2007)

SILVESTRO A small, popular and unpretentious first-floor Italian restaurant and pizzeria with an open kitchen and friendly service. The choice of Italian wines make a change from the usual Moroccan list. Address: 70 Rue Laâlouj Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 35 55 Cost: One course: 40 - 120 DH, 3 courses: 125 - 285 (March 2009) Recommended by:Michelin 2007, Time Out 2008

le SIROCCO Lively well-run restaurant with characterful French owners. The food - mostly French, Moroccan (including mechoui and tanjia and good pastilla,) and seafood - is generally excellent. Desserts include a sublime chocolate fondant cake. Has live music (usually on Mondays and Fridays), whilst Sunday is usually magic night. Closed Saturdays. Booking advisable at peak times. Address: 15 Rue Ibn Rochd Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 23 96 or 0 (0 212) 6 61 08 33 72 Cost: One course: 3 - 186 DH, 3 courses: 130 – 370 (November 2013) Recommended by: Michelin 2007, Routard 2010



SOFITEL MOGADOR GOLF AND SPA WiFi

If you fancy a walk along the beach and across the estuary to Diabet it is worth going a little further to experience this beautifully designed modern hotel. It has four restaurants, including a poolside bar where you can eat a light lunch (salads, sandwiches, pizza, pasta) overlooking the new Gary Player golf course and the Atlantic Ocean. Non-residents can use the pool for 250DH. Address: Domaine Mogador Website: www.sofitel.com Cost: One course: 120 - 200 DH, 3 courses: 290 – 420 DH (October 2012)

SUSHITHE/le GALERIE DU POISSON ROUGE Restauarant/art gallery/ gift shop near the ramparts which serves teas, sushi and other oriental dishes in attractive surroundings. Has a pleasant sheltered terrace at ground level. Ope 12:00 - 22:00 Address: 3 Rue Yemen Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 31 69 or 0 (0 212) 6 78 96 47 21 Cost: One course: 60 - 130 GH, 3 courses: 230 - 245 DH (November 2013)

SOUK EL HOUT (THE FISH SOUK) For a less touristy alternative to the port fish stalls (Les Gargottes) you can eat with the locals at one of the cafés in or near the fish souk in the heart of the medina. Either tell the waiter what you would like and he will buy from one of the nearby stalls or buy the fish yourself and take it to the café or one of the nearby charcoal grills to be cooked for a few dirhams. If using the café in the market itself, agree the price in advance and bargain hard or you risk being charged highly inflated prices. Address: The Fish and Spice Souk Cost: Negotiable, plus 5 DH per grill (January 2012) Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2010, Lonely Planet 2011

SUPERBE PASTILLA

Little white-fronted display cabinet en route to Bab Marrakech serving excellent pastilla and other pastry-based snacks to take away. Address: Avenue Mohamed El Qouri Cost: Chicken pastilla: 100 Dh/kg (about 30 DH each), pigeon pastilla (if available); 130 DH/kg (January 2012)

SWIRIYA Modern restaurant just across the road from the beach (about 10 minutes walk from the medina, next to Petite Algue and Aigue Marine). Good traditional Moroccan cooking with a number of dishes which are rarely found on restaurant menus, including mechoui on demand. Open 12:00 - 15:00 and 19:00 - midnight daily except Tuesday. Address: 62 Bd Mohammed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 25 02 Cost: One course: 30 - 140 DH, 3 courses: 130 -24- (January 2013)

la Table by MADADA (formerly après CINQ/le CINQ) WiFi This chic restaurant/bar is attached to the Madada Mogador Hotel and cooking school. A former Jewish carob warehouse, it has warm stone arches, and modern Moroccan décor with giant lampshades (but subtle lighting!) and a lovely fireplace. The menu is mainly modern European with an emphasis on seafood and occasional Moroccan specialities. You can also have tapas at the bar. Address: 7 Rue Youssef El Fassi Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 55 12 Website: www.latablemadada.com Cost: Tapas: 35 - 55 DH, One course: 65 - 195 DH, 3 courses: 225 - 450 DH (October 2012) Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009, Lonely Planet 2011 Michelin 2007, Routard 2010



café/pizzeria TAMOUZIGA A healthy 30 minute walk down the beach from the medina this modern café/pizzeria is situated in the café/watersports complex which is creeping north from Ocean Vagabond Beach Café. Serves skinny pizzas, snacks and tajines at tables in the shady interior, sheltered terrace or sunloungers overlooking the beach. Address: Boulevard Mohamed V

Cost: Breakfast: 30 – 35 DH, One course: 20 - 120 DH, 3 courses: 55 - 210 DH (November 2009)

chez TAOUFIK WiFi Quirky restaurant a bit off the beaten track on the corner of Rue Rif, past Dar Loubane. Offers a simple three course meal based on fish or meat, plus Moroccan specialities which can be ordered in advance. Address: 10 Rue Rif Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 60 25 /0 (0 212) 6 68 65 62 29 Cost: 3 courses:: 60 - 135 DH (March 2012) Recommended by: Michelin 2007, Routard 2010

TARA CAFE WiFi Attractive little café in the lively square opposite La Cantina with inside and outside seating. Serves good breakfasts, drinks and a ranges of lunches. Open 0800 - 1800 Address: 5 Rue Boutouil / Place Tara Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 53 60 20 19 / 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 30 64 Cost: Breakfast: 35 – 50 DH, Brunch: 69 DH, One course: 20 – 70 DH, 3 courses: 85 - 110 DH (November 2013)

TAROS Café, bar, restaurant, art gallery, shop and library just off the main square. The trendy rooftop café/bar is great for idyllic lunches (or dinner on warm evenings), pre- or post-dinner drinks and people-watching. You can also eat in the library cum art gallery on the floor below. The well-presented food is mostly international with a Moroccan twist. There is live music on the rooftop bar at weekends until about 22:30, followed by a DJ. Accepts credit cards above 300 DH. Open 11:00 – 16:00 and again from 18:00 – 24:00. Closed Sundays and part of January. Address: 2 Rue Skala (just off Place Moulay Hassan) Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 64 07 Website: www.taroscafe.com Cost: One course: 70 - 150 DH, 3 courses: 205 – 350 DH (March 2013) Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009, Lonely Planet 2011, Michelin 2007, Routard 2010, Time Out 2008

dar TATA

One of the larger cafés in the old grain market. In addition to the usual tables in the square itself there is a small first floor terrace with inside and outside seating. Address:202 Place Marché Aux Grains Cost: Breakfast: 35 DH, Sandwiches: 30 - 45 DH, One course: 45 - 70 DH, 3 courses: 65 - 69 DH (July 2012)

TAWRIRT First floor restaurant where friendly staff offer an extensive menu of flavoursome and good value Moroccan dishes. Located above the photographic shop at the northern end of Rue Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdellah (the main 'tourist' street) - look for the red tadelakt entrance. Closed during the winter season. Address: 2 Rue Oujda Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 67 24 or 0 (0 212) 6 61 93 09 24 Cost: One course: 15 - 90 DH, 3 courses: 60 – 145 DH (October 2012) Recommended by: Routard 2010

la TETE DANS LES ETOILES WiFi A friendly French-run café just outside the medina on the edge of the gardens between Bab Marrakech and Bab Sbaa. Serves tasty snacks, salads and smoothies, either at the comfortable outside seating area or the stylish modern-Moroccan interior. Open daily except Sunday. Address: Jardins Bin Alawars Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 71 58 62 92 Website: www.latetedanslesetoiles.ma Cost: Breakfast (10:30 - 12:00): 35 DH, Saturday brunch (11:00 - 15:00): 45 DH, One course: 60 - 85 DH, 3 courses: 180 - 260 DH (March 2013)



la TOLERANCE A square room dominated by a single large arch and furnished with a U-shaped arrangement of banquette seating, traditional fabric-lined walls and an elaborate carved ceiling. The menu is a bit of of a hotch-potch of styles (which does mean there is something to appeal to most tastes) but the cooking is competent, the kitchen, which is on view from the restaurant, is spotless and the three course set menu is good value. Address: Rue Houmman el Fatouki Cost: One course: 25 - 150 DH, 3 courses: 50 - 240 DH (March 2010)

la TRISKALLA WiFi Characterful bohemian style cafe/restaurant full of nooks and crannies with laid-back seating on several levels. The daily changing menu offers a short choice of delicious assertively-flavoured vegetarian and seafood dishes. Eco-friendly (eg. filtered tap water instead of plastic bottles). Evenings only (from 1900) Address: 58 bis Rue Touahen Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 63 71 Cost: One course: 25 - 60 DH, 3 courses: 100 - 110 DH (November 2013) Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009

les TROIS PORTES Colourful little no-frills pizza and pasta restaurant on two floors. Address: Rue Attarine Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 35 53 Cost: Breakfast: 5 – 20 DH, One course: 15 – 60 DH, 3 courses: 85 – 128 DH (January 2008)

le TROU An authentic, down to earth, local drinking den that dates back to the late 1800's. To find it, enter the cul-de-sac behind Le Mechouar (look for the barrow selling cigarettes and snacks outside). Not recommended for the faint-hearted or people who hate cigarette smoke but if you want real local atmosphere and a break from tourists this is the place to go. Open 11:00 – 23:30 daily. Address: Rue Mohammed El Ayachi

Recommended by: Time Out 2008

VAGUES BLEUS Tiny restaurant (10 seats) in a side road just up from Bab Marrakech. Cheerful spotlessly clean décor, charming proprietor and good Italian/Moroccan food. Address: 2 Rue Sidi Ali Ben Abdellah) Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 11 28 37 91 Cost: One course: 15 - 45 DH, 3 courses: 75 DH (March 2013) Recommended by: Michelin 2007

VILLA MAROC Villa Maroc set an unstoppable trend in the mid 1990's by becoming the first Moroccan riad to be turned into a boutique hotel. The roof terrace has panoramic views and is a great place for a drink at sunset. In the evening you can drink in the cosy bar with its roaring fire and eat good Moroccan food in a number of intimate alcoves with open fires on cool evenings. The daily-changing menu consists of a set starter and dessert with a limited choice of main courses which needs to be booked by 16:00 before the chef goes to the souk. Once booked, you can turn up any time between 19:30 and 21:00. Address: 10 Rue Abdellah Ben Yassin Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 61 47 Website: www.villa-maroc.com Cost: 3 courses: 200 DH (October 2012)



snack resto VIHHRANIE Snack bar and restaurant with an open front where you can watch the world do by. Serves pizza, pasta, Moroccan, grills and seafood. Address: Rue Lattarine (near Riad Al Madina) Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 27 77 70 26 / 0 (0 212) 6 59 13 45 93

el YAKOUTE Yacoute is reached via a pretty plant-lined alleyway next to Bab S'baa. The spacious interior has huge stone arches and exuberant décor including arty mosaics and bright paintwork.

Address: 14 Med El Ayachi

Cost: One course: 15 - 350 DH, 3 courses:45 - 445 DH (October 2012)

ZERDA MOGADOR A cheery bunch of women produce Moroccan home cooking (including some interesting salads), plus omelettes, from a little kitchen which is on view to diners. The simple décor features cream brickwork, banquettes and red fabrics. Address: 6 Rue Ahmed Baba Soudany Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 56 42 (November 2007) Cost: One course: 13 – 75 DH, 3 courses, 50 – 135 DH (June 2008)

Restaurants, caf©s and bars in Essaouira

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