Restaurant Review - Charleston Bakery and Deli

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Search Articles ← Search Results Print Our loyal readers frequently are the source for discovering new neighborhood restaurants. They are also the creators of a culinary wish list: cuisines absent from our local dining scene or dining styles not yet in our market. On the list is an authentic delicatessen. My search began for schmears, seltzer, schmaltz and steamed corned beef and smoked pastrami. What I found, however, was that, not just in the Lowcountry but around the borscht belts of the United States, delis and good rye bread were becoming as scarce as the proverbial hen’s teeth. American appetite has been transformed by fast-food sandwich shops and processed meats. Delis have come a long way from 19th-century pushcarts to temples of towering sandwiches and the collective taste memories of Eastern Europeans and the Jewish immigrants who brought their food roots for German frankfurters, Romanian pastrami and Russian blintzes to these shores. Summerville to expand its operations of challah bread, those braided loaves of “air, earth and water”; authentic rye bread; steamed corned beef made from brisket; house-cured and hand-cut lox; and matzo balls made with schmaltz (chicken fat) and two-cents plain (seltzer), I knew I needed to schlep to Summerville and do what any good fresser would do: Check them out. and cucumber. Quiches ($8.95) and tomato pies ($8.95) are flush with ingredients and are served with a side of “wild salad” ($7.50). Freshly made salads of roasted chicken ($8.95) or shrimp ($9.95) bear witness to the homemade touch. cheesecakes on steroids, Key lime meringue tarts, chocolate eclairs, cookies, chocolate-covered marshmallows, croissant, bagels and more. ($4-$5.50) along with the regular version ($4-$5.50) from Serendipity 3, a New York institution. A menu of sundaes, banana splits, ice-cream cones and more will expand the sweet offerings in time for summer. favorite Dr. Brown’s product line is available as well. Halvah is not mounded on the counter to be cut to order, but those who have a sweet spot for this sesame and simple syrup 13th-century confection can purchase it by the bar. It is made by Customer Care Shopping Jobs Autos Real Estate Pets Classifieds Obituaries Place an Ad Get Connected Become a Member Home News Sports Business Multimedia Entertainment Features Special Sections Blogs Opinion Archives Login Index By Deidre Schipani Special to The Post and Courier Posted: June 6, 2013 East Coast Baseball Academy One-Month Individual Membership Unlimited Hitting and Pitching only $29! Regularly $59 GET DAILY DEAL EMAILS! GET DAILY DEAL EMAILS! Email: Save Dad Wears 'Daisy Dukes' to Teach Daugh… 1 of 2 9/12/2013 9:14 PM Restaurant Review - Charleston Bakery and Deli Many are closing, unable to compete as deli departments flourish in supermarkets and the So when the Charleston Bakery & Delicatessen in West Ashley announced it was moving to display cases provide a window on the deli world as you look over salads of macaroni, coleslaw The L-shaped dining room surrounds an open industrial kitchen and, in true deli fashion, The bakery case tempts with individual Bundt-shaped cakes of rum and coconut rum; Late this spring, a creamery was added. The deli is offering the “frrrozen hot chocolate” Old-timey sodas (Nehi, SunSpot, Cheerwine) are iced up on the side, and the quintessential deli

Transcript of Restaurant Review - Charleston Bakery and Deli

Page 1: Restaurant Review - Charleston Bakery and Deli

Search Articles

← Search Results Print

Our loyal readers frequently are the source for discovering new neighborhood restaurants. Theyare also the creators of a culinary wish list: cuisines absent from our local dining scene or diningstyles not yet in our market. On the list is an authentic delicatessen.

My search began for schmears, seltzer, schmaltz and steamed corned beef and smokedpastrami.

What I found, however, was that, not just in the Lowcountry but around the borscht belts of theUnited States, delis and good rye bread were becoming as scarce as the proverbial hen’s teeth.

American appetite has been transformed by fast-food sandwich shops and processed meats.

Delis have come a long way from 19th-century pushcarts to temples of towering sandwichesand the collective taste memories of Eastern Europeans and the Jewish immigrants who broughttheir food roots for German frankfurters, Romanian pastrami and Russian blintzes to theseshores.

Summerville to expand its operations of challah bread, those braided loaves of “air, earth andwater”; authentic rye bread; steamed corned beef made from brisket; house-cured andhand-cut lox; and matzo balls made with schmaltz (chicken fat) and two-cents plain (seltzer), Iknew I needed to schlep to Summerville and do what any good fresser would do: Check themout.

and cucumber.

Quiches ($8.95) and tomato pies ($8.95) are flush with ingredients and are served with a side of“wild salad” ($7.50). Freshly made salads of roasted chicken ($8.95) or shrimp ($9.95) bearwitness to the homemade touch.

cheesecakes on steroids, Key lime meringue tarts, chocolate eclairs, cookies, chocolate-coveredmarshmallows, croissant, bagels and more.

($4-$5.50) along with the regular version ($4-$5.50) from Serendipity 3, a New York institution.

A menu of sundaes, banana splits, ice-cream cones and more will expand the sweet offerings intime for summer.

favorite Dr. Brown’s product line is available as well.

Halvah is not mounded on the counter to be cut to order, but those who have a sweet spot forthis sesame and simple syrup 13th-century confection can purchase it by the bar. It is made by

Customer Care Shopping Jobs Autos Real Estate Pets Classifieds Obituaries Place an Ad Get ConnectedBecome a Member

Home News Sports Business Multimedia Entertainment Features Special Sections Blogs Opinion Archives LoginIndex

By Deidre SchipaniSpecial to The Post and CourierPosted: June 6, 2013

East Coast BaseballAcademyOne-Month IndividualMembership Unlimited Hittingand Pitching only $29!Regularly $59

GET DAILY DEAL EMAILS!GET DAILY DEAL EMAILS!Email: Save

Dad Wears 'Daisy Dukes' toTeach Daugh…

1 of 2 9/12/2013 9:14 PM

Restaurant Review - Charleston Bakery and Deli

Many are closing, unable to compete as deli departments flourish in supermarkets and the

So when the Charleston Bakery & Delicatessen in West Ashley announced it was moving to

display cases provide a window on the deli world as you look over salads of macaroni, coleslawThe L-shaped dining room surrounds an open industrial kitchen and, in true deli fashion,

The bakery case tempts with individual Bundt-shaped cakes of rum and coconut rum;

Late this spring, a creamery was added. The deli is offering the “frrrozen hot chocolate”

Old-timey sodas (Nehi, SunSpot, Cheerwine) are iced up on the side, and the quintessential deli

Page 2: Restaurant Review - Charleston Bakery and Deli

the Joyva Corp.

($4.25; $4.75 if you want chicken noodle and matzo ball) is filled with hand-stripped pieces ofchicken, onions, carrots and celery, and a golden orb of matzo meal lightened with pure chickenfat and the effervescence of seltzer water. It is brightened with fresh dill and parsley.

Salads are also marked by fresh ingredients. The macaroni salad uses a fusilli pasta in place ofthe elbow macaroni, but the red and green peppers, celery, red onion and carrot shreds carrythe flavors of this classic.

The coleslaw is equally balanced with red and green cabbage and shreds of carrots lendingsweetness to the mix.

The rye bread for the sandwiches is the best I have had in the Lowcountry. It has a crisp crustwith the slightly sour flavor of rye with caraway. The sandwiches are stacked 3 inches tall andcan be ordered “Carnegie” style for $18.50: Just think “super-size me.”

The corned beef brisket ($10.50-$18.50) and spice-rubbed and smoked pastrami$10.50-$18.50) earn high marks for their fat-to-lean ratio. They were out of beef brisketserved with au jus and horseradish.

Sandwiches can be topped with coleslaw and Russian dressing and made into Reubens andRachels ($10.95)

Koegel hot dogs: all-beef, natural casing, no fillers, no preservatives. It is served on a split-toproll, and if “snap” defines your frankfurter experience, this pup will not disappoint. Have it

chili ($4).

They cover Israeli street foods with a gyro ($7.95), celebrate the Lowcountry with tomato pie($8.95) and a McClellanville shrimp roll ($7.95), and roast both turkey breast and beef for otherdining options.

On this trip, the culinary GPS rang true. If you have the need to nosh, if your bubbe’s tongue

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Charleston Bakery & Delicatessen is a scratch-cooking kind of place. The matzo ball soup

Not content with Hebrew National brand hot dogs, Charleston Bakery & Delicatessen “imports”

through the garden: Chicago style ($4.75) or topped with the deli’s house-made black bean

the Charleston Bakery & Delicatessen has your number.sandwich ($10.50) is speaking to you or you are craving the brisket cuts of deli classic meats,