RESTAURANT ANDRE wine journal · 2017-06-03 · 10 11. SPARKLING WINES ... André & Mireille NV...

27
RESTAURANT ANDRE wine journal 1

Transcript of RESTAURANT ANDRE wine journal · 2017-06-03 · 10 11. SPARKLING WINES ... André & Mireille NV...

RESTAURANT ANDREwine journal

1

wine collection

ANDRE CHIANG

VOLUME II

AUGUST 2016

41 BUKIT PASOH ROAD SINGAPORE 089855

2016ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

32

john miltonsonnet 17

Lawrence of virtuous father virtuous son, Now that the fields are dank, and ways are mire,Where shall we sometimes meet, and by the fire

Help waste a sullen day; what may be wonFrom the hard season gaining: time will run

On smoother till Favonius reinspireThe frozen earth; and clothe in fresh attire

The lily and rose, that neither sowed nor spun.What neat repast shall feast us, light and choice,

Of Attic taste, with wine, whence we may riseTo hear the lute well touched, or artful voice

Warble immortal notes and tuskan air?He who of those delights can judge, and spare

To interpose them oft, is not unwise.54

If food is the body of good living, wine is its soul.– Clifton Fadiman

76

CHAMPAGNE

the wine

At its glorious best champagne has no peers. It offers all the elements of a truly great sparkling wine; freshness and vivacity to lift the spirits, complexity of aroma, and richness on the palate balanced by fine acidity. While many wine regions produce good sparkling wine, champagne has a monopoly of the most celebrated brands. With around 300 million bottles produced every year, it is a benchmark by which all other sparkling wines are judged.

the history

The Romans were the first to plant vineyards in this area of northeast France with the region being cultivated by at least the 5th century, possibly earlier.

Wines from the Champagne region were known before medieval times. Churches owned vineyards and monks produced wine for use in the sacrament of Eucharist. French kings were traditionally anointed in Reims and Champagne wine was served as part of coronation festivities. The Champenois were envious of the reputation of the wines made by their Burgundian neighbours to the south and sought to produce wines of equal acclaim. However, the northerly climate of the region gave the Champenois a unique set of challenges in making red wine. At the far extremes of sustainable viticulture, the grapes would struggle to ripen fully and often would have bracing levels of acidity and low sugar levels. The wines would be lighter bodied and thinner than the Burgundy wines they were seeking to outdo.

Contrary to legend and popular belief, Dom Perignon did not invent sparkling wine. The oldest recorded sparkling wine is Blanquette de Limoux, which was apparently invented by Benedictine Monks in the Abbey of Saint Hilaire near Carcassonne in 1531.

Over a century later, the English scientist and physician Christopher Merret documented the addition of sugar to a finished wine to create a second fermentation six years before Dom Perignon set foot in the Abbey of Hautvillers and almost 40 years before it was

98

claimed that the famed Benedictine monk invented Champagne. Merret presented the Royal Society with a paper in which he detailed what is now called méthode champenoise in 1662.

Although Dom Perignon did not invent Champagne, he did develop many advances in production of the drink, including holding the cork in place with a wire collar (muselet) to withstand the fermentation pressure.

In France, the first sparkling Champagne was created accidentally; its pressure led it to be called “the devil’s wine” (le vin du diable) as bottles exploded or the cork jolted away.

Even when it was deliberately produced as a sparkling wine, Champagne was for a very long time made by the méthode rurale, where the wine was bottled before the only fermentation had finished. Champagne did not utilize the méthode champenoise until the 19th century, approximately 200 years after Christopher Merret documented the process. The 19th century saw an explosive growth in Champagne production going from a regional production of 300,000 bottles a year in 1800 to 20 million bottles in 1850.

In the 19th century Champagne was noticeably sweeter than the Champagne of today. The trend towards drier Champagne began when Perrier-Jouët decided not to sweeten his 1846 vintage prior to exporting it to London. The designation Brut Champagne, the modern Champagne, was created for the British in 1876.

La Closerie ‘Les Béguines’ Extra-Brut $370

Duval-Charpentier Grand Cru ‘Tradition’ Brut $330

David Léclapart ‘L’Amateur’ Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut $330David Léclapart ‘L’Artiste’ Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut $450David Léclapart ‘L’Apôtre’ Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut $590

Benoît Lahaye ‘Violaine’ Brut Nature $380

Laherte Frères ‘Les 7’ Extra-Brut $350Laherte Frères Rosé ‘Ultradition’ Brut $290

Tarlant Rosé Brut Nature $340Tarlant ‘BAM’ Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature $590

Françoise Bedel ‘Origin’elle’ Brut $280Françoise Bedel ‘Comme Autrefois’ Brut $360

Georges Laval 1er Cu ‘Les Chênes’ Brut Nature $590

Jacques Selosse Grand Cru ‘Initial’ Brut $540Jacques Selosse Grand Cru ‘Exquise’ Sec $770Jacques Selosse Rosé Brut $840

De Sousa Grand Cru Rosé $490 ‘Cuvée des Caudalies’ Brut

Michel Turgy Grand Cru ‘Vieilles Vignes’ $450 Blanc de Blancs Brut Michel Turgy Grand Cru ‘Réserve Sélection’ $570 Blanc de Blancs Brut 1500ml Salon 1997 ‘S’ Brut Blanc de Blancs $1450

Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru ‘Terre de Vertus’ $330 Blanc de Blancs Non Dosé Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru ‘Les Chemins d’Avize’ $490 Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut

Marie-Courtin ‘Efflorescence’ Blanc de Noirs Extra-Brut $330Marie-Courtin ‘Résonance’ Blanc de Noirs Extra-Brut $290Marie-Courtin ‘Concordance’ Blanc de Noirs Extra-Brut $330

Vouette & Sorbée ‘Fidèle’ Blanc de Noirs Extra-Brut $330Vouette & Sorbée ‘Blanc d’Argile’ Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut $450

Ulysse Colin ‘Les Maillons’ Blanc de Noirs Extra-Brut $330

1110

SPARKLING WINES

Damien Bureau NV Vin pétillant de France ‘saPerlipopet’ $150

Château Tour Grise 2004 Saumur Brut Non Dosé $150

La Grapperie 2013 Vin de Table ‘La Bueilloise’ $170

Alice Beaufort 2010 Vin Effervescent $200 ‘Le petit Beaufort’ Brut Alice Beaufort 2011 Vin Effervescent $190 ‘Le petit Beaufort’ BrutAlice Beaufort 2011 Rouge Mousseux $170 ‘Charmoire’ Demi-Sec

Guy Blanchard NV Vin Mousseux ‘Blanc Charmant’ $180

Domaine des NV Vin Mousseux Aromatique de Qualité $160Terres Dorées ‘FRV100’

André & Mireille NV Crémant du Jura ‘Indigène’ Brut $180Tissot

Sylvain Bock 2014 Vin de France ‘Faux sans blanc’ $130

My only regret in life is that I did not drink more champagne.– John Maynard Keynes

“”

1312

WHITE WINES

Loire

Domaine Saint-Nicolas 2007 Fiefs Vendéens Brem $200 ‘Le Haut des Clous’

La Sénéchalière 2014 Vin de France $150 ‘La Folle Blanche’ La Sénéchalière 2014 Vin de France ‘La Bohème’ $140La Sénéchalière 2014 Vin de France ‘Miss-terre’ $150

Domaine de l’Écu 2009 Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine $170 sur Lie ‘Expression de Gneiss’ Agnès et René Mosse 2014 Anjou $160Agnès et René Mosse 2014 Vin de France $190 ‘Les Bonnes Blanches’

Mai et Kenji Hodgson 2014 Vin de France ‘Faia’ $180

Ferme de la Sansonnière 2010 Anjou ‘Les Fourchardes’ $210Ferme de la Sansonnière 2010 Anjou ‘La Lune’ $220Ferme de la Sansonnière 2005 Anjou ‘La Lune’ 1500ml $390Ferme de la Sansonnière 2004 Anjou ‘Vignes Françaises’ $300Ferme de la Sansonnière 2003 Anjou ‘Les Vieilles $320 Vignes des Blanderies’

Château Tour Grise 2003 Saumur ‘Fontenelles’ $150Château Tour Grise 2011 Vin de France ‘Fontenelles’ $160

Stéphane Bernaudeau 2009 Vin de France $220 ‘Les Nourissons’

La Grapperie 2011 Vin de Table $170 ‘‘Le Pressoir de St-Pierre’ La Grapperie 2008 Vin de Table ‘La Désirée’ $190

Noëlla Morantin 2014 Vin de France ‘Chez Charles’ $160Noëlla Morantin 2013 Vin de France ‘Terre Blanche’ $170Noëlla Morantin 2013 Vin de France ‘LBL’ $190

1514

Alexandre Bain

Alexandre Bain started his winery in 2007. His parents aren't in the wine trade but his grandfather had vines in the area, with which he could start working. During his viticulture-enology training, he had Mathieu Coste as teacher and it helped him build his trust in organic farming in the viticulture.

Mathieu Coste later quit the wine school and started his own winery in the region. Alexandre's vineyard surface is 9 hectares, which he purchased from a grower in the region who need to scale down.The production is strictly white with 3 different cuvee. This is so far the most natural Pouilly fume you can find at this time.

Alexandre Bain 2013 Pouilly-Fumé ‘L d’Ange’ $190Alexandre Bain 2013 Pouilly-Fumé ‘Mademoiselle M’ $200

Sébastien Riffault

Sébastien Riffault started taking over the reigns of his wine estate in 2004 from his Father Étienne. First, he converted a couple of vineyards to organic viticulture. Pleased with the results, Etienne let Sébastien transform the entire estate to an organic and then biodynamic property. A believer in biodiversity, an array of plants, flowers and grass are planted in the vineyards. Some of the vines are over 50 years old. His grapes are organically grown and use of the biodynamic principles. Plowed by horse ; absolutely no chemical pesticides, herbicides or fungicides are employed.

Sébastien uses a pneumatic press. Natural fermentation takes place in larger, older wooden vats. Riffault’s wines also undergo full on malolactic fermentation. He never chaptalizes or acidifies. The wines are aged on their lees and bottled, unfiltered and unfined.

If ‘Les Quarterons’ is the most traditional of the lot (though not as typical of Sancerre as others) the other wines display amber to darker color with deep yeasty aroma, stone fruit and buttery but yet refreshing.

This is due to late harvest with very low yields; 30 % of Botrytis for Akméniné and up to 50 % for the 3 others. Coloring elements from the skin and no use of sulfur (which chemically decolor the wine) are also helping the wines to reach this unique profile.In 2008, after meeting Italian and Slovenian winemakers Sébastien started skin maceration on some of his Sauletas cuvées.

Sébastien Riffault 2013 Sancerre ‘Les Quarterons’ $160Sébastien Riffault 2007 Sancerre ‘Akmèniné’ $180Sébastien Riffault 2012 Sancerre ‘Akmèniné’ $170Sébastien Riffault 2012 Sancerre ‘Sauletas’ $190Sébastien Riffault 2006 Sancerre ‘Auksinis’ $200Sébastien Riffault 2009 Sancerre ‘Auksinis’ $200Sébastien Riffault 2012 Sancerre ‘Auksinis’ $190Sébastien Riffault 2010 Sancerre ‘Skeveldra’ $200Sébastien Riffault 2012 Sancerre ‘Skeveldra’ $190

1716

Bourgogne

Athénaïs de Béru 2014 ‘Amphore’ Chardonnay $250Athénaïs de Béru 2014 Vin de France ‘love joy’ $220 Athénaïs de Béru 2014 Chablis 1er Cru ‘Montmains’ $280Athénaïs de Béru 2014 Chablis 1er Cru ‘Mont de Milieu’ $280

Château de Béru 2014 Chablis ‘Terroirs de Béru’ $200Château de Béru 2014 Chablis ‘Côte aux Prêtres’ $220Château de Béru 2014 Chablis ‘Orangerie’ $240Château de Béru 2014 Chablis 1er Cru ‘Vaucoupin’ $280Château de Béru 2012 Chablis ‘Clos Béru’ $280

Yann Durieux 2010 Bourgogne Aligoté ‘Love & Pif ’ $270Yann Durieux 2010 Hautes-Côtes de Nuits ‘Manon’ $340

Philippe Pacalet 2012 Chablis 1er Cru ‘Beauroy’ $350Philippe Pacalet 2011 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru $980Philippe Pacalet 2013 Meursault $420Philippe Pacalet 2011 Puligny-Montrachet $450

Decelle-Villa 2012 Bourgogne $200Decelle-Villa 2013 Bourgogne $200Decelle-Villa 2013 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru $650Decelle-Villa 2013 Meursault $330Decelle-Villa 2013 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Les Poruzots’ $400Decelle-Villa 2013 Puligny-Montrachet $360 ‘Les Nosroyes’ Decelle-Villa 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru $370 ‘Morgeot’

Lou Dumont 2012 Bourgogne $240Lou Dumont 2013 Meursault $280

François Mikulski 2013 Bourgogne $240François Mikulski 2009 Meursault ‘Goutte d’Or’ $450

Chanterêves 2013 Auxey-Duresses $260

Domaine 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er $280Fontaine-Gagnard Cru ‘Morgeot’

Jean-Jacques Morel 2013 Bourgogne ‘Les Genouvrées’ $200Jean-Jacques Morel 2014 Bourgogne ‘Les Genouvrées’ $200Jean-Jacques Morel 2014 Puligny-Montrachet $290Jean-Jacques Morel 2013 Saint-Aubin ‘La Traversaine’ $240Jean-Jacques Morel 2014 Saint-Aubin ‘La Traversaine’ $240Jean-Jacques Morel 2013 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru $270Jean-Jacques Morel 2014 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru $270

Sextant 2014 Bourgogne $220Sextant 2014 Puligny-Montrachet $290 ‘Les Reuchaux’ Sextant 2014 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru $330

Bruno Perraud 2013 Bourgogne Aligoté $160Bruno Perraud 2012 Pouilly-Fuissé $200Bruno Perraud 2012 Saint-Véran $180

Beaujolais

P.U.R. 2014 Vin de France ‘Énergie’ $130P.U.R. 2014 Vin de France ‘Origine’ $130

Alsace

Poised between French and German cultures, Alsace is quite unlike any other wine region in France. Its ribbon of vineyards running through the foothills of the rugged Vosges Mountains produces versatile, fruity, and full-bodied wines which, unusually for France, take their names from the local grape varieties.

André Ostertag 2012 Alsace Grand Cru Riesling $240 ‘Muenchberg’ André Ostertag 2011 Alsace Grand Cru Pinot Gris $280 ‘A360P - Muenchberg’

1918

Domaine Pierre Frick

Pierre Frick is one of the Alsace pioneers in biodynamie. He converted in 1981 after having already turned to organics in 1970. Altogether he farms 12 hectares of vineyards, in several plots, a third of which is rented. Wines are fermented solely with indigenous yeasts and there is no acidification or chaptalization. Each year, a couple of the cuvées are made without any sulfur dioxide additions.

As with many biodynamic growers, the vineyard receives much of the focus. With the shift to biodynamics in 1981, Frick began working the soil in the winter and leaving the grass to grow in the vine growing season, with a couple of passes from the mower to keep it under control. Since 1999 they’ve further modified their vineyard interventions: no rotary tools are used any longer; just simple tractor-drawn ones to preserve the soil structure.

Harvesting is by hand, which is expensive, but is important for ‘the social side experienced during harvest and the search of quality through grape selection’.

Pierre Frick 2013 Alsace Riesling $160Pierre Frick 2013 Alsace Gewurztraminer $170 “Zéro Sulfite Ajouté” Pierre Frick 2014 Alsace Pinot Gris $170 “Zéro Sulfite Ajouté” Pierre Frick 2013 Alsace ‘Bergweingarten’ Sylvaner $170Pierre Frick 2013 Alsace ‘Rot Murle’ Riesling $170 “Zéro Sulfite Ajouté” Pierre Frick 2010 Alsace ‘Rot Murle’ Pinot Gris $160Pierre Frick 2012 Alsace Grand Cru $190 ‘Vorbourg’ Riesling Pierre Frick 2012 Alsace Grand Cru ‘Vorbourg’ $190 Pinot Gris

Domaine Josmeyer 2012 Alsace Pinot Auxerrois $190 ‘H’ Vieilles Vignes Domaine Josmeyer 2012 Alsace Riesling ‘Le Dragon’ $200 Hubert Hausherr 2012 Alsace Riesling Gewurztraminer $160 ‘Altengarten’ Hubert Hausherr 2012 Alsace Riesling Pinot Gris ‘Sungass’ $160

Jura

Michel Gahier 2014 Arbois ‘Les Crets’ Chardonnay $160Michel Gahier 2013 Arbois ‘Les Folasses’ Chardonnay $140Michel Gahier 2014 Arbois ‘La Fauquette’ Chardonnay $170

André & Mireille 2003 Arbois Vin Jaune ‘En Spois’ $290Tissot

Pierre Overnoy 2010 Arbois-Pupillin Chardonnay $190Pierre Overnoy 2011 Arbois-Pupillin Savagnin $280Pierre Overnoy 1999 Arbois-Pupillin $300 Chardonnay / Savagnin Pierre Overnoy 1997 Arbois-Pupillin $390 ‘Vieux Savagnin Ouillé’ Pierre Overnoy 2000 Arbois-Pupillin $370 ‘Vieux Savagnin Ouillé’

Les Dolomies 2014 Côtes-du-Jura $180 ‘Les Boutonniers’ Chardonnay Les Dolomies 2014 Côtes-du-Jura ‘En Novelin’ $200 Chardonnay Les Dolomies 2014 Côtes-du-Jura ‘Croix Sarrant’ $200 Savagnin

Julien Labet 2013 Côtes-du-Jura ‘Lias’ Chardonnay $190Julien Labet 2013 Côtes-du-Jura ‘Bajocien’ $190 Chardonnay

Jean-François 2009 Côtes-du-Jura ‘Cuvée Prestige’ $280Ganevat Savagnin GanevatJean-François 2010 Côtes-du-Jura ‘Cuvée Orégane’ $300Ganevat Chardonnay Savagnin

2120

Savoie

Jacques Maillet 2012 Savoie ‘Autrement’ Jacquère $170 Gilles & 2008 Vin de Savoie Chignin-Bergeron $210Christine Berlioz

Rhône

Yves Gangloff 2010 Condrieu $440

La Ferme des 2013 Saint-Joseph $190Sept Lunes Pierre Gonon 2012 Saint-Joseph ‘Les Oliviers’ $280

Éric Texier 2013 Côtes-du-Rhône Brézème $200Éric Texier 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape $280

Provence

Domaine de Trévallon 2011 Alpilles $350 Henri Milan 2012 Vin de France ‘Le Grand Blanc’ $180

Corsica

Antoine Arena 2005 Patrimonio ‘Grotte di Sole’ $220Antoine Arena 2006 Vin de France ‘Biancu Gentile’ $220

Languedoc

Domaine de Rapatel 2010 Vin de Table $160 ‘La Grande Signature, Cuvée Nadège’ Domaine de Rapatel 2011 Vin de Pays du Gard $130 ‘Le Vin de France’

Alain Chabanon 2010 Vin de Pays d’Oc ‘Trélans’ $220

Mas Haut-Buis 2012 Vin de Pays de l’Hérault $190 ‘Les Agrunelles’ Mas Haut-Buis 2013 Vin de Pays de l’Hérault $190 ‘Les Agrunelles’ Le Temps des Cerises 2014 Vin de Table ‘Peur du Rouge’ $140

L’Escarpolette 2014 Vin de France ‘La Petite Pépée’ $140

Domaine Mâmârutá 2014 Vin de France ‘Trafalgar’ $140Domaine Mâmârutá 2014 Vin de France ‘Constellations’ $170

Roussillon

Domaine de l’Èdre 2012 Côtes du Roussillon $180 ‘Carrément Blanc’

Domaine Gauby 2007 Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes $190 ‘Calcinaires’ Domaine Gauby 2006 Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes $390 ‘Coume Gineste’

2322

Sud-Ouest

Peyre Rose 1999 Coteaux du Languedoc ‘Oro’ $240

Laurent Cazottes 2013 Vin de France ‘Adèle’s’ $130

Château 2009 Bergerac Sec ‘Moulin des Dames’ $240Tour des Gendres

Domaine Arretxea 2011 Irouleguy ‘Hegoxury’ $220

Auvergne

Pierre Beauger 2014 Vin de France Lot “SB14” $380 ‘Not for highway use*’

DIDIER DAGUENEAU 1956-2008Didier Dagueneau, the nonconformist, independent, eccentric, and maverick. He is dedicated to producing the greatest white wines of the Loire — and all of France for that matter.

“The master of the sauvignon blanc grape”

He is on a crusade to redeem the reputation of authentic Pouilly-Fumé. Domaine Didier Dagueneau is located in Saint Andelain, a village in the Pouilly Fumé Appellation. He owns about 28 acres of land consisting of mainly clay and flint based soils (or ‘Silex’ in French). Dagueneau is a perfectionist and he attends to every detail — from vineyard management (biodynamic since 1993) to the cellar, which is said to look like a cathedral. He goes way beyond the regulations of the appellation — pruning severely, de-budding, de-leafing, thinning clusters, and keeping low yields — and each harvest is done manually over several tries.

Dagueneau’s non-conformity has helped him more than hurt him: his long tousled hair, his bushy beard, his intense gaze, not to mention his passion for sled dogs have all earned him the nickname “the madman of Saint-Andelain” and made him very popular with the press.

He is extremely meticulous and possesses a special intuition where winemaking is concerned. His goals are always authenticity and perfection. To obtain grapes of the highest quality, his vineyard workers spend at least three months carefully de-budding even after a severe pruning earlier in the year. And when the grapes are perfectly ripe, the harvest is done by hand, only grapes of impeccable condition are picked, the others are thrown out.

His new winemaking facilities, specifically adapted to Dagueneau’s techniques, use gravity for moving liquids and allow him to apply his ideas without the slightest compromise. After fermentation, the wines are aged in a beautiful cellar containing big barrels and “cigares” (small, long oval barrels which he designed and are made especially for him). The cellar is kept cool to limit interaction between the wine and the oak, thus avoiding an overly oaky aroma in the wine.

Dagueneau makes four different dry white wines, all Pouilly Fumés. His basic wine is the En Chailloux, a blend from several

2524

vineyards. Next step up is the Buisson Renard, more flinty in style, but still round, and more ageworthy. The remaining two wines are both superstars from single vineyards, and are barrel fermented. Both come from slate soils with one being called Silex, Pur Sang and a mysterious “Asteroid”

Pur Sang means “Thoroughbred” in English. The flavors tend to fall somewhere in between the En Chailloux (which accounts for half his production and is his softest, friendliest wine) and Cuvée Silex (his most structured cuvée). The Pur Sang is said to be a more hedonistic Sauvignon (often on par with the Silex), but less mineral driven.

That being said the minerality comes through loud and clear on the nose as well as lemon, citrus, white flowers and some fresh hay. On the palate, very structured, rich and creamy with pronounced mineral components, chalky and loads of lemon zest with a hint of tangerine and nectarine. Great acidity with a very clean, pure and an extremely long finish.

The acidity and strong mineral components make this a great pairing for mussels, raw clams or oysters as well as other seafood dishes. Also, seems as though this wine might benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring….

Didier Dagueneau was tragically killed on September 17, 2008 when the ultralight plane he was piloting experienced problems during take off and crashed. He was only 52 years young. He had accomplished so much and his wines established a legend for sauvignon blanc, yet it seemed as though he was just getting started.

Didier Dagueneau and his most mysterious bottle “Asteroid” became a great story, a legend…

“Astéroïde” Blanc fumé de Pouilly, Vigne Française

The wine that never been reveal neither export to professionals. The less than 10 ranks non-grafted-vines which being extra take cared and permanent supervision by Didier Dagueneau himself. That made to be only shared between Dagueneau’s family and friends, until today there are still very little information and note about this one and only “Asteroid”.

Vintages produced, 100% Sauvignon Blanc: 1995, 1997, 1998, 2000, 2002, 2003, 2006, 2008 apparently.

Dagueneau is a great story that will be missed…

Didier Dagueneau 2012 Blanc Fumé de Pouilly $290Didier Dagueneau 2005 Blanc Fumé de Pouilly $340 ‘Buisson Renard’ Didier Dagueneau 2001 Blanc Fumé de Pouilly $740 ‘Silex’ 1500ml Didier Dagueneau 2009 Blanc Fumé de Pouilly ‘Silex’ $390Didier Dagueneau 2006 Blanc Fumé de Pouilly $400 ‘Pure Sang’ Didier Dagueneau 2007 Blanc Fumé de Pouilly $410 ‘Pure Sang’ 2726

SKIN CONTACT

La Sénéchalière 2014 Vin de France ‘Nuitages’ $170

Yann Durieux 2013 Vin de France $280 ‘Les Ponts Blancs’ Aligoté

Sextant 2013 Vin de France ‘Skin Contact’ $160

L’Escarpolette 2014 Vin de France ‘Le Blanc’ $150

Domaine Mâmârutá 2014 Vin de France ‘La Paysannerie’ $190

Back in the mists of time, most all white wines were fermented on their skins, usually in open top fermenters, at uncontrolled temperatures, just like red wines. White wines fermented in red wine fashion pull enough pigment out of the skins to develop earthy colors, and the inevitable oxygenation of open-top fermentation adds to the orangeness. Wines made this way also tend to suffer no sulfur additions and filtration.

For decades, the worldwide wine industry has rewritten the white wine playbook. Separation of juice and pulp, fermentation in neutral, closed stainless steel at cool temperatures. Fining and filtration make the wines crystal clear and shelf stable, and early bottling ensures fresh, fruity, bright wines. Adopting these protocols has exponentially improved the quality of white wines around the world; in this hugely successful recipe, avoiding skin contact is a core component.

Skin contact refers to the length of time the juice is left in contact with the skins and seeds. The longer the time the juice is left in contact with the skin and seeds the greater the extraction of the components of the skins into the juice. Since the microbial flora of the grapes is located on the skins, skin contact also increases the contact of these organisms with the juice.

One thing makes white skin contact an unknown-unknown is that there’s not much research done about it. Ever since the method earned the status of “nobody does that anymore,” it gets less attention, and a lot of puzzles are left unsolved.

2928

Terroir

Only relatively recently have European wine makers given overt recognition to the grapes they grow.

Of course they knew their universal names, though they often used local jargon instead.

But they had a firm belief that it was the land that gave the wine its character, not the grape. The grape was inherited

from the generations before and replanted when necessary. It was but the part of the statement of the land, the soil,

the drainage, the weather, humidity or lack of it, water supply, the angle of the vineyard towards

the sun - in short, the whole natural environment.

The French have a word for this concept: Terroir, which does not translate directly into English. In its holistic

use of term includes the people, customs, traditions, even the local food of an area. More commonly, however,

Terroir relates to the land, nearby lakes, rivers and seas, and the climate as it affects the working vineyard. In a new wine region the Terroir is examined before suitable grapes

are chosen. In Europe the grape varieties are there because they have always been. The forefathers had decided

what to plant based on Terroir.

ROSÉ

Ferme de la 2010 Vin de France ‘Rosé d’un jour’ $200Sansonnière

Michel Guignier 2013 Vin de France ‘Mystère de Rosée’ $170

Henri Milan 2014 Vin de France ‘Le Papillon Rose’ $180

Roc d’Anglade 2013 Vin de Pays du Gard $170

La Fontude NV Vin de France ‘Carnaval’ $130

Le Scarabée 2014 Vin de France ‘Le p´tit Scarabée’ $150

Domaine Mâmârutá 2014 Vin de France ‘Grain de Folie’ $130

3130

RED WINES

Loire

Pithon-Paillé 2010 Anjou ‘Mozaïk’ $150

Agnès et René Mosse 2013 Anjou $160

La Coulée d’Ambrosia 2012 Vin de France $150 ‘Le Boit Sans Soif ’ La Coulée d’Ambrosia 2013 Vin de France $150 ‘Les Joues Rouges’

Les Vignes de Babass 2011 Vin de France ‘Roc Cab’ $150

Damien Bureau 2013 Vin de France ‘La Poivrotte’ $150Damien Bureau 2013 Vin de France ‘Le Bourre Pif ’ $160

Mai et Kenji Hodgson 2014 Vin de France ‘Ô Galarneau’ $150

Ferme de la Sansonnière 2010 Vin de France ‘Grolle Noire’ $200

Stéphane Bernaudeau 2011 Vin de France ‘La Chantelée’ $180Stéphane Bernaudeau 2012 Vin de France ‘Les Vrilles’ $180

Chahut et Prodiges 2013 Vin de France ‘La mule’ $150Chahut et Prodiges 2013 Vin de France ‘Les têtes noires’ $150

La Grapperie 2011 Vin de Table ‘Le Gravot’ $150La Grapperie 2012 Vin de Table ‘Adonis’ $170

Noëlla Morantin 2013 Vin de France La Boudinerie $150Noëlla Morantin 2013 Vin de France ‘Côt à Côt’ $170Noëlla Morantin 2014 Vin de France ‘Côt à Côt’ $170

Les Cailloux du Paradis 2010 Vin de France ‘Racines’ $210

3332

Bourgogne

More than any other region in France, Burgundy has distilled the wisdom and experience of its history into winemaking. Established by powerful monasteries from the 7th century onwards, the vineyards have been cultivated by people who came to understand every nuance of the soil and every natural factor acting upon it – rainfall, wind conditions, sunlight and temperature. Burgundian wine patronized by royalty through the ages, is celebrated for its elegance and subtlety.

Alice Beaufort 2010 Bourgogne ‘Grande Charme’ $190

Athénaïs de Béru 2014 Bourgogne Côte d’Auxerre $220Athénaïs de Béru 2012 Irancy $260

Lou Dumont 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru $380 ‘Champeaux’

Cécile Tremblay 2006 Morey-Saint-Denis $770 ‘Trés Girard’

Domaine Lécheneaut 2007 Morey-Saint-Denis $280

Pascal Marchand 2012 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru $840

Domaine Bizot 2012 Échezeaux Grand Cru $950Domaine Bizot 2011 Vosne-Romanée ‘Les Jachées’ $490

Decelle-Villa 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin $360Decelle-Villa 2013 Morey-Saint-Denis $330Decelle-Villa 2011 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru $520 ‘Les Baudes’ Decelle-Villa 2013 Vosne-Romanée $410Decelle-Villa 2011 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru $410 ‘Les Crots’ Decelle-Villa 2011 Beaune 1er Cru ‘Clos du Roi’ $300Decelle-Villa 2011 Beaune 1er Cru ‘Les Teurons’ $300Decelle-Villa 2011 Pommard 1er Cru ‘Les Epenots’ $350Decelle-Villa 2013 Savigny-lès-Beaune $270 ‘Les Pimentiers’ Decelle-Villa 2013 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru $280 ‘Les Peuillets’

Prieuré Roch 2013 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru $710 ‘Les Suchots’ Prieuré Roch 2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru $980 ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Prieuré Roch 2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges $1210 1er Cru ‘Clos des Corvées’ Philippe Pacalet 2008 Ruchottes-Chambertin $950 Grand Cru Philippe Pacalet 2008 Charmes-Chambertin $790 Grand Cru Philippe Pacalet 2012 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru $490Philippe Pacalet 2007 Beaune 1er Cru ‘Les Perrières’ $450Philippe Pacalet 2010 Pommard $360

Jean-Jacques Morel 2007 Saint-Aubin $220Jean-Jacques Morel 2008 Saint-Aubin $220Jean-Jacques Morel 2012 Saint-Aubin ‘Le Ban’ $240Jean-Jacques Morel 2008 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru $270 ‘Les Frionnes’ Jean-Jacques Morel 2013 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru $260 ‘Les Frionnes’

Sextant 2014 Bourgogne $190Sextant 2014 Côte-de-Nuits Villages $240Sextant 2014 Monthélie 1er Cru $280 ‘Sur la Velle’

3534

Beaujolais

Michel Guignier 2014 Vin de France $170 ‘Mélodie d’Automne’ Michel Guignier 2013 Vin de France ‘Ohhh…!’ $170Michel Guignier 2012 Fleurie ‘Au Bon Grès’ $190Michel Guignier 2012 Moulin-à-Vent ‘La Petite Oseille’ $190

Lilian Bauchet 2013 Vin de France ‘Sur la Root’ $170Lilian Bauchet 2011 Fleurie ‘Clos des Bachelards’ $150Lilian Bauchet 2013 Vin de France ‘Da Zi Bao’ $160

Bruno Perraud 2012 Morgon $180

Marcel Lapierre 2011 Morgon MMXI $240

Jean Foillard 2013 Morgon ‘Cuvée 3,14’ $220

Decelle-Villa 2011 Côtes-de-Brouilly ‘La Côte’ $170

Domaine Des Grottes 2014 Vin de France ‘Brut de Cuve’ $150Domaine Des Grottes 2014 Vin de France ‘Micro Cuvée’ $150

Le Picatier 2013 Vin de France ‘Cuvée Gamenits’ $150

P.U.R. 2014 Vin de France ‘C’Fini’ $140

Jura

Michel Gahier 2014 Arbois ‘Les Vignes de Louis’ $160 Trousseau Michel Gahier 2014 Arbois ‘Clousot’ Trousseau $150Michel Gahier 2014 Arbois ‘Grands Vergers’ $170 Trousseau

Pierre Overnoy 2011 Arbois-Pupillin Poulsard $210Pierre Overnoy 2012 Arbois-Pupillin Poulsard $280

Rhône La Ferme des Sept Lunes 2013 Saint-Joseph $180La Ferme des Sept Lunes 2013 Saint-Joseph ‘Premier Quartier’ $190La Ferme des Sept Lunes 2013 Saint-Joseph ‘Chemin Faisant’ $200

Pierre Gonon 2011 Saint-Joseph $280

Jean-Louis Chave 2007 Hermitage $840

Thierry Allemand 2009 Cornas ‘Chaillot’ $440

Sylvain Bock 2014 Vin de France ‘Neck’ $140Sylvain Bock 2014 Vin de France ‘Les Grelots’ $140

Mas de l’Escarida 2013 Vin de France ‘Sota mon Soleu’ $130

Le Raisin et l’Ange 2014 Vin de France $150 ‘Le Primeur de l’Ange’

Domaine Gramenon 2011 Côtes-du-Rhône ‘Sierra du Sud’ $210

Éric Texier 2012 Côtes-du-Rhône Brézème $200

Domaine de Villeneuve 2013 Côtes-du-Rhône ‘La Griffe’ $170Domaine de Villeneuve 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape $230 ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Domaine de Villeneuve 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape $220 ‘Vieilles Vignes’

Le Clos du Caillou 2011 Châteauneuf-du-Pape $440 ‘La Réserve’

3736

Provence

Domaine de Trévallon 1990 Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence $830 ‘Les Baux’

Corsica

Antoine Arena 2008 Patrimonio ‘Carco’ $210

Languedoc

Domaine de Rapatel 2011 Vin de Table ‘Le Petit $130 Journal de Rapatel’ Domaine de Rapatel 2007 Vin de Table $140 ‘La Petite Signature’ Domaine de Rapatel 2009 Vin de Table ‘Cuvée Arthur’ $160

Roc d’Anglade NV Vin de Pays du Gard $330 ‘Reserva Especial n°1’ Autour de l’Anne 2012 Coteaux du Languedoc $140 ‘Pot d’Anne’

South of France

Blue skies, dazzling sunlight, cypress, pine, and olive trees bowed by the force of the mistral wind, rocky terrain, and

tiny villages with medieval towers – the traditional picture of the south of francestill holds the true.

Stretching the whole length of the Mediterranean coast between the Italian and Spanish

borders, the area is also an enormous viticultural zone. Languedoc-Roussillon alone represents a third of france’s

total vineyard area.

La Fontude NV Vin de France ‘Fontitude’ $130La Fontude NV Vin de France ‘Amarèl’ $130

Mas Haut-Buis 2001 Coteaux du Languedoc $300 ‘Costa Caoude’ Mas Haut-Buis 2002 Coteaux du Languedoc $280 ‘Costa Caoude’ Mas Haut-Buis 2007 Coteaux du Languedoc $250 ‘Costa Caoude’ Mas Haut-Buis 2011 Languedoc - Terrasses du $220 Larzac ‘Costa Caoude’ Mas Haut-Buis 2012 Languedoc - Terrasses du $220 Larzac ‘Costa Caoude’ Le Temps des Cerises 2014 Vin de Table ‘Un Pas de Côté’ $160Le Temps des Cerises 2014 Vin de Table ‘Fou du Roi’ $150

Mas Coutelou 2014 Vin de Table ‘Classe’ $140Mas Coutelou 2014 Vin de Table ‘Syrah’ $160Mas Coutelou 2014 Vin de Table ‘Mourvèdre’ $180Mas Coutelou 2014 Vin de Table ‘Flambadou’ $160

3938

Thomas Rouanet

Thomas Rouanet in Creissan, in the appellation of St. Chinian has just five hectares all the vinification are made at Yannick Pelletier place where Thomas used to do his first wines. Bombadilom his wine, apparently a reference to Tolkien, is a blend of Carignan and Grenache, grown on clay and limestone soil. He studied in Montpellier and worked with Jean Viennet at Château de Raissac, learning ‘what not to do’.

The Carignan is vinified by carbonic maceration, and no sulphur is added. This is a very small story for a such amazing winemaker but the pleasure is very long.

Mylène Bru 2014 Coteaux du Languedoc ‘Far-Ouest’ $170Mylène Bru 2014 Vin de France ‘Rita’ $170Mylène Bru 2014 Vin de France ‘Karm Rouge’ $180Mylène Bru 2014 Vin de France $170 ‘Les Moulins de mon Cœur’

L’Escarpolette 2013 Vin de France ‘Escarpolette’ $150L’Escarpolette 2013 Vin de France ‘Les Vieilles’ $170

Léon Barral 2009 Faugères ‘Valinières’ $290 Thomas Rouanet 2013 Saint-Chinian ‘Bombadilom’ $150

Yannick Pelletier 2013 Saint-Chinian ‘l’Engoulevent’ $150Yannick Pelletier 2012 Saint-Chinian ‘Coccigrues’ $190

Domaine Mâmârutá 2014 Vin de France ‘Kézako ?’ $130Domaine Mâmârutá 2014 Vin de France ‘Les Tondeuses’ $130Domaine Mâmârutá 2013 Vin de France ‘Cacahuète’ $170

Les Sabots d’Hélène 2013 Vin de Table ‘Liberterre’ $130Les Sabots d’Hélène 2013 Vin de Table ‘Percepteurs ! $170 Huissiers Garnisaires DEMI-TOUR ! Plus Noir que Rouge’

Roussillon

La Petite Baigneuse 2009 Côtes du Roussillon ‘Bon Plein’ $180

Domaine des Chênes 2003 Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $220 Tautavel ‘La Carissa’ Domaine Gauby 2003 Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $230 ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Domaine Gauby 2010 Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $220 ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Domaine Gauby 2010 Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes $390 ‘La Muntada’ Le Scarabée 2014 Vin de France ‘Nina’ $150Le Scarabée 2013 Vin de France ‘Murmûre’ $160

Sud-Ouest

Peyre Rose 2002 Coteaux du Languedoc $390 ‘Clos Syrah Léone’ Peyre Rose 2003 Coteaux du Languedoc $380 ‘Syrah Léone’ Peyre Rose 2004 Coteaux du Languedoc $350 ‘Syrah Léone’ Peyre Rose 2004 Coteaux du Languedoc $390 ‘Clos des Cistes’

Laurent Cazottes 2013 Vin de France ‘Marcotte’ $130

Domaine Cosse 2008 Cahors ‘Les Laquets’ $220Maisonneuve

Élian Da Ros 2010 Côtes-du-Marmandais $200 ‘Chante Coucou’

4140

SWEET WINES

André Ostertag 2011 Alsace Gewurztraminer $280 Vendanges Tardives ‘Fronholz’

Domaine Josmeyer 2011 Alsace Pinot Gris ‘Le Fromenteau’ $180

Pierre Frick 2011 Alsace Riesling $230 Vendanges TardivesPierre Frick 2008 Alsace Pinot Gris $220 Vendanges Tardives Pierre Frick 2010 Alsace Gewurztraminer $160 Vendanges Tardives Pierre Frick 2010 Alsace Pinot Gris $210 Sélection de Grains Nobles

Hubert Hausherr 2011 Alsace Gewurztraminer, $190 Riesling, Pinot Gris ‘De Roc et de Porcelaine’

Agnès et René Mosse 2010 Anjou ‘Tenderness’ $150

Château de 2009 Saumur $220Fosse-Sêche ‘Les Tris de la Chapelle’

Philippe Foreau 2003 Vouvray Moelleux $350 ‘Domaine du Clos Naudin - Réserve’

François Pinon 2003 Vouvray Moelleux $190François Pinon 2003 Vouvray ‘Première Trie’ 500ml $190François Pinon 2005 Vouvray ‘Cuvée Botrytis’ 500ml $190

Bordelais

Clos du Jaugueyron 2014 Haut-Médoc $250

Despagne-Rapin 2014 Vin de Fance ‘Vinum Simplex’ $220

Auvergne

Pierre Beauger 2014 Vin de France Lot "PN14" $300 ‘Vendangé en jour fesses’

4342

Château Tour Grise 2014 Vin de France $130 ‘Ze Bulle Zéro Pointé’ Château Tour Grise 2014 Coteaux de Saumur $200 ‘Les Étourneaux’ 500 ml L’Escarpolette NV Vin de France $230 ‘Uvas Passas’ 500 ml

Domaine des Chênes 2010 Muscat de Rivesaltes $180

Dominique Andiran 2009 Vin de France $180 ‘Domaine Haut- Campagnau - Soyeux’

CIDERS

Éric Bordelet NV Sidre ‘Brut Tendre’ Demi-Sec $160

La Cidrerie du Golfe 2014 Cidre 'Hors-Normes' $130La Cidrerie du Golfe 2014 Cidre 'Le Guillevic' $130La Cidrerie du Golfe 2014 'Le Dayou' $210

Que monFlacon

Me semble bon;Sans luiL'ennuiMe nuit,Me suit;Je sens

Mes sensMourants

PesantsQuand je le tiens

Dieu que je suis bien !Que son aspect est agréable !

Que je fais cas de ses divers présents !C'est de son sein fécond et de ses heureux flancs

Que coule ce nectar si doux, si délectable,Qui rend dans les esprits tous les cœurs satisfaits,

Cher objet de mes vœux tu fais toute ma gloire,Tant que mon cœur vivra de tes charmants bienfaitsIl saura conser ver la f idè le mémoire .

Ma muse à te louer se consacre à jamais,Tantôt dans un caveau, tantôt sous ma treille,

Répètera cent fois cette aimable chanson.Règne sans fin ma charmante bouteille

Règne sans cesse, mon cher flacon.LA BOUTEILLE

Charles-François Panard (1689-1765)

Zéro Pointé !

An intriguing name for a special wine away from the sweet appellations of the Vallée de la Loire. Nothing to do with a Crémant; fermentation occurs with indigenous yeast and is stopped after tasting, when acidity/sugar/ texture are balanced. Bottled with its own gas. Partial fermentation aims for a sparkling rosé with lower degree of alcohol and residual sugar. This wine displays flavors of the range of all red fruits.

So why ‘Zéro Pointé !’ ? When Philippe Gourdon presented his project of rosé for the Saumur AOC he was rejected because his rosé was too dark. Even a jury member felt a slight fizz! So Philippe decided to produce a cuvée of sparkling rosé named ‘Zéro Marks’ after it flunked to match the criteria for the appellation.

4544

APÉRITIFS Vin De Liqueur 60 clApéritif à base de cidre - Domaine du Fortmanel (Normandie) $ 30Macvin du Jura - Les Dolomies (Jura) $ 25Pineau des Charentes Blanc - La Tour Vert (Charentes) $ 25

Vermouth 45 clVermouth de Chambéry Rouge - Dolin (Savoie) $ 20Vermouth de Chambéry Dry - Dolin (Savoie) $ 20

Anisé 20 clPastis aux Plantes - Bernard Marty (Languedoc) $ 15

DIGESTIFS 30 cl

Cognac

Cognac VSOP ‘Pass’ange’ - Alain Chadutaud $ 30Cognac Napoléon - Guy Pinard & Fils, La Tour Vert $ 30Cognac XO Folle Blanche - Guy Pinard & Fils, La Tour Vert $ 35Cognac Vieille Réserve ‘Pass’ange’ - Alain Chadutaud $ 40

Armagnac

Bas-Armagnac VSOP - Domaine de Saoubis $ 30Bas-Armagnac ‘Hors d’Âge’ 2001 - Domaine de Saoubis $ 40

Whisky Old Rhino Rye Whisky ‘Vulson’ $ 35Organic Malt Whisky ‘Les Moissons’ $ 352010 Single Malt Organic Whisky ‘Flavis’ $ 65- Domaine des Hautes Glaces (Alpes) Gin Gin Mist ‘Naturellement Trouble’ $ 25 - Distillerie Awen Nature (Bretagne)

Calvados / Lambig Eau-de-Vie de cidre ‘Lambig’ - La Cidrerie du Golfe (Bretagne) $ 35Calvados ‘Réserve’ - Julien Frémont (Normandie) $ 35

Eau-De-Vie De Fruit Fine de Terret ‘Escadrille - MF902’ $ 35- La Fontude (Languedoc) Eau-de-Vie de raisin 2012 ‘Goutte de Mauzac Rose passerillée’ $ 35Eau-de-Vie 2013 ‘Goutte de Reine-Claude Dorée passerillée’ $ 35Liqueur de raisins 2012 ‘Folle Noire’ $ 15Liqueur de Prunelle passerillée 2012 $ 25- Laurent Cazottes (Sud-Ouest) Absinthe Absinthe Verte ‘Douce Angélique’ $ 25- Distillerie Awen Nature (Bretagne)

4746

In water one sees one’s own face but in wine, one beholds the heart of another. – French Proverb

“”

4948

[ notes ] [ notes ]

5150

[ notes ]

52