Resource Manual - Room 170 | Construction Technology · Drafting Lines and Front View 3 Cutting &...

The Resource

Manual has :

Exemplars are

examples of

completed

assignments.

Notes: the notes

are here so that if

you get ahead

you do not have

to wait for the

class. Also, if you

struggle at taking

notes during

lectures, you can

copy them down

at your own

pace.

Assignment

References:

When you have

an assignment

this is where you

find the

information.

Exploring

Technologies

Resource Manual Table of Contents

Orthographic Views Exemplar 2 Measuring & Marking Tools 33

Drafting Lines and Front View 3 Cutting & Shaping Tools 34

Determining The Front View Note 4 Drilling Tools 35

Rough Copy of Wood Block Exemplar 5

Centering a Drawing Exemplar 6

Lettering 7

Dimensioning 8

Drill Press 11

Disc Sander Safety 12

Scroll Saw Safety 13

Band Saw Safety 14

Compound Mitre Saw Safety 15

Project Evaluation Exemplar 16

West Point Bridge Designer 17

Levers and Energy (Mouse Trap) 23

History of Aviation 24

Anatomy of an Airplane 25

Bernoulli’s Principle 26

CO2 Dragster Construction Tips 27

2

Orthographic Views Worksheet

8

5

5

3

2

1

Task 1

How many orthographic views are

there of an object (not including

cylinders)? 6

This drawing includes all 6 views

and hidden lines. If you do not

know what hidden lines are look in

the Resource Manual.

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Resource Manual Balabuck©

Left Back

Bottom

Front

Top

Right

3

Drafting Lines and Front View C

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Drafting Lines

Object Lines

These are dark solid lines that outline

the edges of the object, that are seen.

Hidden Lines

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

These are medium, dashed lines

(broken) which show the edges of the

object that are not seen from that view.

Construction Lines

These are very light, solid lines that are

used to begin the outline of the object.

They are darkened later and become object lines.

Dimension Lines

These are medium lines used to convey the size and details of an object. We will go into much more

detail about these types of lines near the end of this unit.

Advanced Workload

Centre Lines

Are used to mark the centre of a circle or curve.

Leader Lines

Point to the circles or curves to describe the diameter and the radius.

Determining the Front View Rules (Task 3)

Longest side.

Shows the most detail.

Stable on the table.

After selecting the front view, ensure that the detail is present in the other views.

Isometric Projection

4

Determining the Front View Note

Task 3

On your own lined paper. Number the sides of the isometric object from 1 - 6

Draw the orthographic views of each sides in the boxes provided on the left.

Using the first 3 rules in the Resource Manual - Determining the Front View section to eliminate the

views that do not fit the criteria.

You should have 2 view left. Draw in the Area 3 Front, Top and Right Side view

for both options. Use rule 4 to determine what is the proper front view.

Show your instructor. Congratulations you have completed 2 of 7 tasks for this

unit.

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1

2

3

4

5

6

Area 3: Use rule #4 to determine the front view

Area 1: Isometric Object

Area 2: 6 Orthographic Views

5

Exemplar Rough Copy of Wood Block Task 4

On your own sheet of lined paper you will draw a rough copy. The purpose of this drawing is to

ensure that you understand the Front view and its orientation. This will also give you a chance to

demonstrate your use of the drafting tools (metric ruler and pencil).

Turn your sheet of paper in the Landscape position (holes to the top).

Draw a horizontal guideline 30 mm from the bottom and a vertical guideline 30 mm from the left.

Show your instructor this setup.

Draw the Front view 1:1 on the page (actual size). Do not trace or you will not complete this task.

Draw the Right Side view 30 mm away from the Front View, then draw the Top view 30 mm away

from the Front view.

Show your instructor. Congratulations you have completed 3 of 7

tasks for this unit.

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Guideline

Guideline

6

Centering a Drawing C

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Horizontal Vertical

Have 255 Have 168

Need - 195 Need - 119

60 49

÷2 ÷2

30 24.5

Over from the left Up from the bottom

255 Horizontal (Have)

168

Vertical

(Have)

120 30 45

45

30

44

Horizontal

Need

Vertical

Need

Sketch the Front, Top and Right views in the proper orientation (As shown above)

On the sketch, dimension the overall measurements (length, height and width) and put 30 mm between the views.

Measure and record the actual size of the paper (255 mm x 168 mm)

This will be called what you HAVE. The HAVE will be the same for all your drawings.

Determine the NEEDS - (needs will change with every drawing) Horizontally 195 - Vertically 119

Subtract the “NEEDS” from the “HAVES” and divide by 2 to find the horizontal and vertical base lines.

Check with your instructor, then draw the base lines on your Good Copy and start the drawing.

195 119

Note: the 255 mm (horizontal)

and the 168 mm (vertical) are

the dimensions of the drawing

area available on the Good

Copy Paper

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Lettering C

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Task 6: The lettering used on technical drawings is called Technical lettering. This

lettering is easily read and aids the viewer in understanding complex information. The

focus of this exercise is to practice lettering, which is a writing style that is an industry

standard. Students will sharpen their ability to letter correctly and apply this to the title

block of their technical drawing.

The title block conveys all the pertinent information about the drawing such as:

The title of the object.

Who has drawn the object?

What the scale is? etc...

TECHNICAL LETTERING

A B C D E F G H I

J K L M N O P Q R

S T U V W X Y Z

TECHNICAL NUMERALS

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0

8

Task 7: Dimensions are used to convey information about the object so that someone else

could make an exact replica or copy. For example if someone in Germany designed a new

engine for a car, a part could be made in Japan, assembled in Ontario and shipped to a

United States car dealership. This all started with Technical Drawings.

Dimension lines are used to show measurements of the object so it will be easier to build.

The trick is to put as few measurements as possible but still be understandable.

The general rules are:

Put the minimum number of dimensions (avoid cluttering your drawing)

Include overall Length, Width and Height

Include any unusual detail dimensions

Do not chain dimension across the entire object

Dimensioning (1 of 3) C

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Length

Width

Height

Detail

Detail

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Dimensioning (2 of 3) C

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Chain Dimensioning

Chain dimensions are dimensions that placed side by side to each other as shown below. Similar to a

metal chain that is linked together one after another.

Do not chain dimension across the entire length of a view.

Specific Rules

Dimensions are grouped around the

views in a manner that is easy to read.

Place dimensions where details are

shown most clearly.

(shown to the right)

Dimension a contour only once.

Dimension to object lines (1 mm away).

Extension lines may cross object lines to dimension another detail (shown below).

Correct Chain Dim. Incorrect Chain Dim.

10 50 10

Here

Not Here 10 50

10 50

10 50

10 10

10

Specific Rules (cont.)

5 Place detail dimensions in a line (not up and down).

6. Dimension obviously identical contours only once.

Dimensioning (3 of 3)


20

20

10

10

20 30

20 20

10

10

20 30

Your are ready for Task 6:

Dimensioning Worksheet

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Disk Sander

Size

Purpose

Adjustment

Parts

Safety

Determined by the diameter of the disc _____” , with 100

grit abrasive paper

To sand the end grain of wood.

No adjustments

Only use 1/2 of the disk

going down into the table

Keep the board moving

across the disc (right side)

Remove all glue and nails

Guard

Table

Power Switch

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Parts

Safety rules concerning proper attire while operating the drill press.

Never wear loose clothing or ties around a machine. Roll up sleeves to above the elbow to

prevent getting caught in the machine

Long hair should be tied back

Never wear rings, watches, or bracelets while working in the machine shop.

Drill Press

2. Spindle

1. On/Off Button

3. Chuck

4. Table

8. Column

5. Base

6. Motor

9. Table Clamp and Handle

7. Handle

10. Chuck Key

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Keep your fingers at least 1 inch away.

When removing the wood from the machine, while still running, back out

slowly and carefully.

Do not force the wood through the machine this could will result in the

breaking of the blade.

When changing the blade, make sure that you put the new blade in the

correct way or the wood will flip up in your face.

Keep the safety guard—hold down in place.

Scroll Saw (2 of 3 Handouts)

Power Switch

Hold down


14

Determined by the width from the blade to the arm

________” & ________”

This machine is used to cut wood in straight or curved pat-

terns

Upper guide assembly

The blade guide assembly should be moved to within 1/4”

above work

Allow machine to reach full speed before cutting

Fingers must be at least 2” away from the blade

When backing out of a cut turn the machine off, step on the

brake

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Band Saw


Size

Purpose

Adjustment

Parts

Safety

Blade Guide Assembly Power Switch

Brake

Blade Guide Lock

Arm

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Compound Mitre Saw


Size

Purpose

Adjustment

Parts

Safety

Determined by the diameter of the blade _____”

To cut wood to length and angles

The table and blade swivel 450 either way of centre.

The blade must be pressed down onto the wood.

The blade can tilt for compound angles

Never cross your hands to cut

Hands must be 3” away from blade

Long lengths of wood should be supported

For wide lumber start the blade in the lumber closest to you

and move towards the fence

6. Base

1. On/Off Switch

2. Blade

3. Fence

4.Mitre Lock

5. Mitre Indicator

16

Name: ________________ Peer: _________________

Course: __________ Date: _________

Components of Assessment:

Description Comment Student

Evaluation Peer

Evaluation Teacher

Evaluation

1 Layout

Accuracy Square

According to the drawing is your project the same : Top Length

Write in your length _____ _____-1 for every 1/16” off Bottom Length

Write in your Width __________ -1 for every 1/16” off Height

Write in your Height __________ -1 for every 1/16” off

1 2 3 4 5

1 2 3 4 5

1 2 3 4 5

Circle below Strongly Agree

----- Agree -----

Disagree -----

Strongly Disagree

(Circle at least one area that

needs improvement)

2 Milling

Consistency

Are your cuts straight?

Are the angles cut accurately?

1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5

SA : A : D : SD

3 Assembly

Proper fit Square

Does your project fit snuggly in the tester? (1/16” play)

Did it fit the first time? (-1 for every try)

1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5

SA : A : D : SD

4 Finish

Sanding Wood Filler

Is your project smooth (sanded edges) ?

Are there any rough surfaces (not a good thing)?

Are there any tool marks (not a good thing)?

1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5

SA : A : D : SD

Overall /50 /50

Reflection:

Are you satisfied with the final result? Explain what you liked? Yes I am satisfied with my project. Using hand tools is very difficult and over time I got better at using tools accurately.

Teacher Marks your comments

1 2 3 4 5

Teacher Marks your comments

1 2 3 4 5

What could have been done differently to make this project better? I should take more care in laying out my measurements. Also, I should use the vise more to hold the wood while I cut and plane the wood.

Total /50 /60

Agree

Disagree

Strongly

Agree

Spike Woody

TCJ2O Today

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Hand Tools - Evaluation

-2

3 5/8”

3 5/8”

2 3/4”

45 46

45 56

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West Point Bridge Designer

Getting started

Click on the Start Button and open the Technology Folder, from there click on West Point Bridge De-

signer 2013. You should see the screens below.

Click Create a New

bridge Design

Click OK

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Read through, then

Click Next

Check No, Click Next

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Click Next

Check Standard

Abutments

No Pier (One Span)

No Cable Anchorages

Medium Strength

Standard Truck

Click Next

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Resource Maunaul Balabuck©


Select a template if

you want or select

<none> if you want

to try your own

design

Click Next

Click Next

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Make sure the

SPAN shows

44 meters

Click Finish

Try out the Tools,

place the member

Joints before adding

the Members

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Once your bridge is

finished test it out

with the truck see

below.

NOTE: You can click and

drag the mouse for

multiple selections or

hold down the Ctrl Key

and mouse click.

Port Severn Bridge, Port Severn, ON

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Levers and Energy

Potential Energy

Kinetic Energy

Lever

Mechanism

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AND LAUNCH GLIDER

History of Aviation

irplanes are one of the newest and

fastest means of transportation.

Only spacecraft travel is faster than

airplanes. A modern jet transport plane can

carry a heavy load of passengers and

cargo across Canada in less than 5 hours.

It can fly almost a third of the way around

the world--from Vancouver to Sydney,

Australia--in about 15 hours. Passengers

can ride in comfort 30,000 to 45,000 feet

(9,100 to 13,700 meters) above the ground.

The largest jets can hold more than 400

passengers.

The activity of designing, building, and

flying aircraft is called aeronautics. During

the late 1700's, people used balloons to

make their first flights into the air. Balloons

can fly because they are lighter than air.

After the first balloon flights, inventors tried

to develop a heavier-than-air flying

machine. Some inventors experimented

with gliders (engineless planes). They

studied birds' wings and discovered that

they are curved. By giving their gliders

curved wings instead of flat ones, they

could make them fly hundreds of yards or

meters.

The Wright

uring the 1890's, Orville and

Wilbur Wright became

interested in flying while

operating their bicycle-manufacturing

shop in Dayton, Ohio. The brothers

read every book about flying they

could find. They started building

gliders in 1899. On Dec. 17, 1903,

Orville Wright became the first person

to successfully fly an engine-driven,

Mr. Balabuck© Exploring Technologies

The activity

of

designing,

building,

and flying

aircraft is

called

In 1903, the Wright brothers built their first

airplane, named the Flyer.

For further information about any of the

topics discussed in this paper, the following

resources were used:

Microsoft Encarta ‘99 Airplanes

How Stuff Works,

www.howstuffworks.com, How an

25


ll airplanes,

except for a few

experimental

planes, have the same

basic parts. They are (1)

the wing, (2) the

fuselage (body), (3) the

tail assembly, (4) the

landing gear, and (5)

the engine. All these

parts--except the engine-

-make up a plane's

airframe. The

streamlined exterior of modern

airplanes hides a complex balance of

form and function. The fuselage

houses the pilot, passengers, and

cargo. The shape of the wings

provides the lift that enables the plane

to fly. Movable ailerons on the wings

help control lateral motions. The tail

assembly includes movable parts that

help control vertical motions and fixed

parts that increase stability during

flight. The landing gear enables the

plane to move along runways

during take-offs and

landings. Light, single-

engine planes such as this one

are popular with private pilots.

here are four basic forces

govern the flight of an airplane:

(1) gravity, (2) lift, (3) drag, and (4)

thrust. Gravity is the natural force that

pulls a plane toward the ground. Lift is

the force that pushes a plane upward

against the force of gravity. It is

created by the movement of a plane's

wing through the air. Drag is the

natural force of air opposing an

airplane's forward movement. Thrust is

the force that opposes drag and

moves a plane forward. Thrust is

created by a plane's propeller or by its

jet engines.

Anatomy of an Airplane

Wings of Flight

(1) gravity,

(2) lift,

(3) drag, and

(4) thrust.

Gravity

Thrust Drag

26


ernoulli’s principle is one of two

theories that explains how

airplanes achieve flight. An

airplane wing is shaped so the air

speed above the wing is greater than

the air speed below. This means the

air pressure below the wing is greater

than the pressure above, and the wing

is pushed upward.

Shown below is the air pattern around

the wing or airfoil. Notice the area of

lower and higher pressure and the air

speed.

A. Air approaching the top surface of

the wing is compressed into

the air above it as it moves

upward. Then, as the top

surface curves downward

and away from the air-

stream, a low-pressure area

is developed and the air

above is pulled downward

toward the back of the wing.

B. Air approaching the bot-

tom surface of the wing is slowed,

compressed and redirected in a down-

ward path. As the air nears the rear of

the wing, its speed and pressure grad-

ually match that of the air coming over

the top. The overall pressure effects

encountered on the bottom of the wing

are generally less pronounced than

those on the top of the wing.

C. Lift component

D. Net force

E. Drag component

Bernoulli —

A Drag, a Lift. You make the Call!

Drag and Aerodynamics

he shape of an object

drastically affects the degree to

which air resistance, or drag,

impedes the object’s motion. For

example, a sphere, top, and especially

a square, bottom, both force the air to

redirect itself, slowing the objects

down. An airfoil, middle, minimally

...air

pressure

below the

wing is

greater than

the

pressure

above, and

the wing is

LIFT

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CO2 Dragster Construction Tips Designing a CO2 Racer Before putting pencil to paper, consider these important points:

Follow the specifications given to you for the car.

Do you want to focus on the car’s performance or appearance?

What is most important to you: speed at any price, show-stopping good looks, or some combination of the two?

If you're in it for the speed, know that the following design factors have an enormous impact on performance: weight — the lighter, the better; aerodynamics — you want your car to cheat the wind; and rolling resistance — less is more!

Thumbnail Sketching Now is the time to get some of those racecar design ideas — undoubtedly floating around in your head — on paper. The best way to start is with concept sketches, also known as thumbnail sketches. Thumbnails are small, quick sketches used by engineers and designers to rapidly communicate ideas. They should not be detailed or even care-fully done. Be sure to experiment with different ideas and be as creative as possible.

Design Sketching On a clean sheet of paper, sketch your favorite design from the thumbnail sketches on a larger scale with more detail. Draw the top and side views. Make light projection lines from one view to the other to help you locate axle holes and other features of your design. Show the location of hid-den details (such as the cartridge hole) by using dashed lines. Remember to obtain the list of specs and read it. While doing so, look at your design sketch to see how each spec applies to your design. You may find it necessary to take notes or even change your design.

Working Drawing The working drawing is a precise, 1:1 scale drawing that describes your car and its features. Working drawings should have top and side, or profile, views. An accurate working drawing is important for two reasons: 1) A copy of the working drawing serves as a template for rough-cutting your car blank. 2) You may be required to submit your working drawing. It could be part of your grade or even be scored for competition points (ask your teacher about this). Pitsco car kits include a large sheet of grid paper intended for the working drawing. Start by measuring and drawing the top and side views of the car blank, and then accurately locate the power plant housing on your drawing. Be sure to refer to the specifications sheet as you go. When your drawing is complete, make at least two copies. This enables you to make templates for your prototype and production racecar and have an extra copy for the teacher if necessary.

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Resource Manual Bal abuc

CO2 Dragster Construction Tips Prototyping Prototyping involves the construction of a three-dimensional model of your design. In this case you can use the polystyrene body blank provided in the Pitsco car kit to build your prototype. Prototyping is a quick way to put your design ideas to test. It gives designers the opportunity to make changes if necessary before the final version is produced.

Making the Prototype Cut out the top and side (profile) views from

a copy of your working drawing. Then, care-fully outline the views onto the polystyrene blank.

Use a hot wire foam cutter to roughly shape the blank:

Turn the blank on its side and cut out the profile view first.

Fit the waste pieces and working piece together and secure them by wrapping two bands of mask-ing tape around the assembly.

Set the blank assembly upright and cut out the top view. Note: The hot wire will not cut through the masking tape, so you’ll have to work around the tape. When ready, remove the tape and carefully cut those areas last.

If you haven’t already done so, remove the mask-ing tape and discard all the waste pieces.

Smooth the corners of your prototype with a sharp knife, the hot wire cutter, or sandpaper. Note: You may have limited success with sandpaper on polystyrene.

Testing the Prototype

Visual inspection – Does your prototype look like you envisioned it? Automobile manufacturers test the visual appeal of their new designs long before they put them into production.

Specifications – Meas-ure the car in appropriate places to see if it adheres to the specifica-tions.

Wind tunnel – Look for eddies around the car body. Can certain fea-tures be streamlined to reduce turbulence? Turbulence causes aerodynamic drag, which is an enemy of speed! Based on test results, you might want to modify your design. If you do, then you’ll need to make a new working drawing and, of course, make copies of it.

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Testing for Tolerances This simply means to check your car against the official rules and specifications to prevent any rules violations. In most competitions, a car is disqualified if it violates even one of the rules. Conduct checks regularly during the construction of a racecar. Even in the design drawing stage, the specifications should be considered to avoid problems down the road. For TSA specs, a handy Go/No Go Gauge is available from Pitsco. It enables quick checking of several body measurements. Vehicle weight is a critical factor in competition. Because weight is an enemy of

speed, the idea is to get the weight to the absolute minimum. Remember to weigh the car with all the wheels and hardware (axles, washers, screw eyes, and so forth).

Testing for Rolling Resistance The items in this list are potential sources of rolling resistance. Be sure you test for each one.

Surface friction between two surfaces moving relative to one another – Examples include the wheels and axles, or the axles and body. Test for spinning friction by rolling your car down a ramp and observing how far the vehicle travels. Another (perhaps less scientific) method is to spin the wheels while holding the car in an inverted position and note the time that has elapsed when the wheels come to a stop. Experiment with different bearing materials or use a lubricant such adry powder graphite to improve performance.

Improper wheel alignment – This happens when axle holes are not drilled straight. (Stated more precisely, straight means the holes should be perpendicular to the car’s longitudinal axis.) Roll the car for-ward on a flat smooth surface. It should go fairly straight. If the car veers drastically to the right or left, there’s a good chance the wheels are misaligned.

Careless location of screw eyes – The guideline can actually drag on the body or wheels of the car as it moves down the track, causing a great deal of friction. Invert your car and thread an 18" length of mon-ofilament line (fishing line) through both screw eyes. Pull the line taut, and move it back and forth. If the movement of the line is restricted, consider relocating one or both of the screw eyes.

Wheel imperfections – Small imperfections from the molding process may be found on the rolling surface of a wheel. Examine your wheels and care-fully remove any imperfections with fine-grit sandpaper.

CO2 Dragster Construction Tips

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Transferring Design to Body Blank Cut out the top and side (profile) views from a copy of your working drawing. Then, carefully trace the outline of the views onto the wood blank.

Drilling Axle Holes Transfer the axle hole locations onto the

blank by using a sharp pointed tool such as an awl to puncture through the template and into the wood blank.

Lay the car blank on its side and drill the axle holes. Axle holes should be drilled perpendicular to the car’s longitudinal axis in order for the car to roll freely and straight down the track. A drill press is highly recommended because it makes drilling per-pendicular holes easier.

Rough Shaping Your Car Body If you haven’t drilled the axle holes yet, do this before shaping the body. Use a band saw to roughly shape the blank:

Turn the blank on its side and cut out the profile view first.

Fit the waste pieces and working piece back together and secure

them by wrapping two bands of masking tape around the assembly.

Set the blank assembly upright and cut out the top view.

Remove the masking tape and discard all the waste pieces.

Smooth the corners of your car body. Use a bench-mounted sander, sharp knife,

wood rasp, files, or rough sandpaper (80

grit) to smooth the car to its basic rounded

shape.

Periodically check your car against the spec sheet (especially weight) to

make sure the car is still within tolerances.

When weighing your car, put the wheels,

axles, washers, screw eyes, and any other

necessary hardware on the scale along with

the body.

If your design calls for a hollowed-out body, a high-

speed rotary multi-tool works nicely. A variety of mill-

ing and sanding bits are helpful for making cavities in

the car body. Whenever using power tools to shape

the car body, go slowly and cautiously. It’s very easy

to remove too much wood and ruin your car!


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Fine Shaping Your Car Body At this point, your car has assumed its basic shape. Now you’re at the stage that separates the really fine cars from the mediocre cars. Extra time and ef-fort spent during the fine shaping, or pre-painting, stage have a huge payoff in the curbside appeal of the final product. Use sandpaper to remove unwant-ed bumps and irregularities from the body. Use progressively finer grit paper as you go. For example, you might start with 80-grit paper (very course, re-moves a lot of material) and progress to 220-grit (fine paper for smoothing surfaces). Check your car for symmetry, and sand the body as needed. Also, exposing your car to bright light can help reveal imperfections that need attention.

Painting Your Car Body As in the fine shaping stage, extra patience and effort put into the finishing stage can pay big dividends. Be aware that using several coats of paint can add weight to your car.

Insert a 2-foot length of 5/8" hardwood dowel into the power plant housing of the car body. This makes a very convenient handle for turning the body to paint it from all angles. Pitsco also makes a racecar paint stand for this purpose.

Use a spray can or airbrush to apply paint to the body. Spray light coats and wait several minutes between coats to allow the paint to dry.

Final Assembly: Mounting Wheels and Hardware Don’t overlook the importance of this stage. A huge factor in race performance is how smoothly the car rolls down the track. Some meticulously shaped cars have failed to finish races because of improperly installed hardware!

Gather your hardware: two axles, two straw bearings, four wheels, four washers, and two screw eyes. Depending on the configuration of the car body, different hardware might be required. Shell cars (with internal wheels) often require wheel spacers and clips to affix the axles to the car body.

Check your spec sheet for rules about wheels, axles, washers, and spacers. Carefully mount the wheels and

axles as dictated by your design. Be care-ful not to damage the fragile car body during installation.

Roll test the car on a smooth, horizontal surface. The car should roll freely, and the wheels should spin without restriction. Make adjustments if necessary.

Install the screw eyes on the underside of the car body. Im-portant: Plan the location of the screw eyes so the guideline does not rub against the car body or wheels.

Construction Tips Template Transfer Template Alternative: Use adhesive spray to attach blank-shaped templates to the top and a side of the blank. Drill and cut the blank with paper templates attached. Drilling Axle Holes Drill First: Axle holes in the body blank should be drilled before doing any shape cutting. Otherwise, it's difficult to drill straight. Rough Shaping Waste Pieces: After cutting the profile view, fit the waste pieces and body back together and secure with masking tape. This


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CO2 Dragster Construction Tips simplifies the cutting of the top view. Fine Shaping Haste Makes Waste: Take time and care when using power tools to shape your car body. With soft balsa wood, it's very easy to remove more material than you intended. Painting Paint Adds Weight: Applying several coats of paint can add some weight to your car. Remember to plan for this. Fill 'er Up!: Want a super smooth finish on porous balsa wood? Before painting, use a wood filler and sanding primer to fill problematic end-grain areas. Smooth Coats: Put your car under an incandescent bulb between paint coats. The warmth smoothes the surface of the paint as it dries. Finish Protection: Clear coats provide glossy protection for paint and decals, but read paint labels for compatibility infor-mation. Painting Caution: Take care when painting inside the power plant housing. Excess paint can prevent the cartridge from fitting properly. Custom Graphics: Pitsco offers an extensive selection of decals and pinstripes specially designed for CO2 racecars. Final Assembly Just a Lil' Dab: A drop of epoxy can help solidify screw eye mountings in soft balsa. But first, make sure the rules allow it. Screwy Eyes: Don’t use screw eyes that are partially open. Doing so can cause your car to detach from the guideline and slow or even damage your car. Lube 4 Speed: Heard of dry powder graphite? It's a great lubricant for axles. Sweet Wheels: Custom wheels can really accent a nice paint job and give your car a look of its own!

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Measuring & Marking Tools

Tape Measure - a flexible

tape that slides into a case.

The tape has a hook on the

end that adjusts to true

zero.

Protractor - used to

measure and mark angles. I

is often used to set and

transfer bevels accurately.

Compass - for drawing circles and arcs. It can be also used to step off equal measurements.

Steel Ruler - a steel rule that is used ofr short measurements. One side is usually divided into inches, while the other is metric.

Calipers - for very accurate

measurements. Calipers are

available for outside and

inside measurements.

Sliding T-bevel - for checking

and transferring angles. The

blade pivots and can be

locked to match and angle.

Awl - used instead of a

pencil to make fine layout

lines, especially on metal. It

can also be use to make

small holes in wood for

starting drill bits, nails or

screws.

Try Square - the most

common

woodworking square

for laying out and

checking 900 angles.

Carpenter’s Square

- usually 2” x 24”

and made of metal.

This square is used

for layout lines and

squaring larger

objects.

Combination Square - used

to check layout lines at 900

and 450 angles. The handle

slides on the blade.

Speed Square (or

Rafter Angle Square -

marks out 900, 450

and other angles used

in building roofs on

houses.

Some of the definitions originate in the Wood Technology and Processes textbook.

French Curves - these plastic

curved templates allow for

variety of curved layout lines.

You can use theses curves to

make an interesting design

on your push stick.

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Cutting & Shaping Tools

Claw Hammer - the

most commonly

used hammer. The

curved claw

provides leverage

for pulling nails.

Back Saw - a fine tooth

crosscut saw with a heavy

metal band across the top.

Dove Tail Saw - a small

backsaw that is used to

make fine joints. Coping Saw - has a u-

shaped frame; used to

cut curves and finishing

trim.

Hack Saw - cuts metal.

Rip Saw - cuts with the grain of the

wood.

Trigger Clamp - all

purpose clamp; only

needs one hand to

operate. Bar Clamp - large bar

clamp that is used for

gluing up wood panels.

Locking Pliers -

sometimes called Vice

Grips, the jaws can be

set and lock onto

different size objects.

Lineman’s Plier - used

mainly for twisting and

cutting wires.

Needle Nose Pliers - used

to hold small objects,

especially in electrical

work.

Side-cutting Pliers -

designed to cut wire and

thin metal

Chisels (Beveled) - used to

cut wood joints or

mortises for hinges.

Files - assorted files used

to shape and smooth

wood or metal.

Rasp - a file that

removes wood quickly,

but leaves a rough

surface.

Clamping and Cutting

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Drilling Tools

Slotted Phillips Robertson

Screwdriver

Brace - bores larger holes

in wood by hand. Twist Bit - designed for

drilling holes in wood and

metal.

Forstner Bit - drills a

smooth shallow hole in

wood.

Level- used to check level

and plumb. Standard

lengths are 24” and 48”.

Drill Gauge- used to

measure drill bit sizes or

dowel.

Counter-Sink Bit & Counter-Sink with pilot hole -

drills a recess into wood to allow the head of the

screw to sit below the surface.

Other Hand Tools

Centre Punch - used to mark the

centre of holes. Also, used to mark

drilling location on metal.

Aviation Snips - used to cut thin

metal, like sheet metal or aluminum.

Utility Knife - used to cut paper,

vinyl, plastic, cardboard or thin

wood.

Resource Manual - Room 170 | Construction Technology · Drafting Lines and Front View 3 Cutting &...

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Transcript of Resource Manual - Room 170 | Construction Technology · Drafting Lines and Front View 3 Cutting &...