Appendix

RECOMMENDED DOWEL DIAMETERS AND WIRE GAUGES FOR BASIC CHAIN TYPES

In chain design the relationship between wire gauge and dowel size is critical to the construc­tion of a successful chain, which to us means a neat, close weave. In general, the low-gauge, heavier wires should be wound on larger dowels while lighter, higher gauge wires need smaller dowels. Usually a limited range of dowel sizes can be used with wire of a particular gauge and one's choice is based on the characteristics desired in the chain. A dowel on the small side gives a compact, more solid-appearing chain while a dowel that is large for the wire produces a lighter, more open look. In Table 1 we recommend a range of dowel diameters and wire gauges appropriate for the basic chain types.

TABLE 1 GAUGEIDOWEL SPECIFICATIONS FOR VARYING BASIC CHAINS

Given in thirty-seconds of an inch to clarify dowel diameter relationships; conversion to simpler fractions can be done using Table 2

IS-gauge 20-gauge 22-gauge 23-gauge 24-gauge 25-gauge 26-gauge

Single 1:1'32" 1%2" %2" %2" 0/32" ')132" %2" 1%2" 1:1'32" %2" 0/32" ')132"

1%2"

Pinched Loop 2%2" 1)t3z" 1}'32" 10/32" %2" %2" 0/32" 20/32" 1%2" 1%2" %2" 2%2" 10/32" 1%2"

Double 10/32" 1%2" %2" 7132" 0/32" 0/32" )-32" 1%2" 10/32" %2" %2" %2"

1<1'32"

Two-way double 1%2" 10/32" %2" %2" %2" 0/32" Y32" 1%2" %2" 7132" 0/32"

Three-way double 10/32" 1%2" %2" %2" 7132" 1}'32" %2" %2"

Two-way single 10/32" %2" %2" %2" 7132" 0/32" 1%2" 1%2" 1%2"

Three-way single 1%2" 10/32" 1%2" %2" 7132" 1%2" %2"

177

DOWEL DIAMETER RELATIONSHIPS

Wooden dowels, especially the smaller ones, often are only approximations of their stated diam-eters; these approximations are usually close enough to work well in our directions. Table 2 gives the metric measurement and the different fractional parts of an inch for the dowel sizes used in this book.

TABLE 2 DOWEL DIAMETER RElATIONSHIPS

Inches

Millimeters Thirty-seconds Halves Quarters Eighths Sixteenths

0.79 132" 1.58 132" Y;l' 2.37 %2" 3.16 %2" Va" YJ.6" 3.95 Y§2" 4.74 %2" Yll' 5.53 7132" 6.32 %2" 14" %" 'Yl6" 7.11 %2" 7.90 1%2" Yl6"

8.69 1132" 9.48 1132" ¥S" 0/16"

10.27 1%z" 11.06 1%2" Yl.6" 11.85 lY§2" 12.64 1%2" Yz" %" %" . o/J.6"

13.43 1/32" 14.22 10/32" VI6" 15.01 1%2" 15.80 2%2" 'is" HYl.6"

16.59 2132" 17.38 2%2" lYi6" 18.17 2%z" 18.96 2%2" %" %" lYJl'

178 RECOMMENDED DOWEL DIAMETERS AND WIRE GAUGES FOR BASIC CHAIN 1YPES

TROY WEIGHTS

While we have specified the amounts of silver for projects in feet or inches, the prices of precious metals are based on weight. The price of a length of silver wire is usually calculated from Troy ounces but the price of gold may be calculated from pennyweights (dwts.), grains, which are fractions of pennyweights, or Troy ounces:

24 grains = 1 pennyweight (dwt) 20 dwts = 1 ounce (Troy)

1 dwt = 1.5 grams

Troy ounces are heavier than avoirdupois ounces; one Troy ounce equals 1.10 ounces avoirdupois. Table 3 gives the thickness in millimeters and inches and the weight in Troy ounces per foot* of the wire gauges most often used in making the chains in this book.

TABLE 3 WEIGHT PER FOOT OF ROUND WIRE

Fine Gold 22K Gold

B&S Thickness

Fine Silver Sterling Silver Troy Troy Gauge (inches) (millimeters) Troy (Ozs.) Troy (Ozs.) (Ozs.) (Dwts.) (Ozs.) (Dwts.)

14 0.06408 1.63 0.214 0.211 0.392 7.87 0.360 7.21 15 0.05706 1.45 0.169 0.167 0.313 6.25 0.286 5.73 16 0.05082 1.29 0.135 0.132 0.248 4.96 0.217 4.34 17 0.04525 1.15 0.107 0.105 0.197 3.93 0.180 3.60 18 0.04030 1.02 0.0846 0.0835 0.155 3.11 0.143 2.85

19 0.03589 0.912 0.0671 0.0662 0.124 2.48 0.114 2.27 20 0.03196 0.813 0.0532 0.0525 0.0981 1.96 0.0900 1.80 21 0.02846 0.724 0.0422 0.0416 0.0780 1.56 0.0715 1.43 22 0.02534 0.643 0.0335 0.0330 0.0615 1.23 0.0565 1.13 23 0.02257 0.574 0.0265 0.0262 0.0489 0.977 0.0447 0.894 24 0.02010 0.511 0.0210 0.Q208 0.0388 0.755 0.0355 0.710 25 0.01790 0.455 0.0167 0.0165 0.0308 0.615 0.0282 0.563 26 0.01594 0.404 0.0133 0.0131 0.0244 0.488 0.0223 0.447

• Approximation. The actual weight will depend on the composition of the alloy; this varies less with higher karat precious metal alloys than with the lower ones.

TROY WEIGHTS 179

COMPOSITION OF 22K ALLOY FOR FUSED CHAINS-GOLD IN OUNCES

1 troy ounce of 24k gold

33 grains of fine silver, very clean (no solder, etc.)

11 grains of pure copper

COMPOSITION OF 22K ALLOY FOR FUSED CHAINS-GOLD IN PENNYWEIGHTS

22 dwts of 24k gold

1.5 dwts of fine silver, very clean

0.5 dwt of pure copper

ALLOYING 22K GOLD FOR FUSED LOOP CHAINS

Sand a hollow in a new charcoal block that has been bound around the outside with binding wire. The proportions of metals in an alloy are always determined by weighing. Weigh the met­als for alloying very carefully with a gold scale. Place the gold into the hollow in the charcoal block. Using a Smith No.2 or a Prestolite No.3 or No.4 tip, heat until the gold puddles into a molten "button." Let the gold cool, making sure that its surface is smooth and shiny and that it forms a hole; there should be no discoloration or streaks in the metal. Reheat again until molten and add the silver and copper. With an unpainted wood, charcoal, or carborundum stick, stir the metal to mix it. Use the flame to keep the "button" jumping around. After about 1 minute, remove the flame and allow the metal to cool until it is solid. In another charcoal block, make a trough approximately V4" deep and at least 2" long. Place the alloyed metal "button" in the trough and reheat until it melts into a long ingot. Cool, pickle, and put through a square rolling mill, if one is available. If not, hammer the ingot until it is small enough in diameter to be drawn through the largest hole in a draw plate. Anneal often as you hammer. NOTE: If the char­coal block is sprayed with water immediately after the torch has been removed, it will last longer.

DRAWING WIRE

Place the draw plate in the bolted-down vise, making sure that it is tightly secured. File a long point on the ingot, anneal, pickle, lubricate with beeswax or oil and put the point through the largest hole in the plate, going from the back to the front. Grab the point with draw tongs placed right next to the plate and pull the ingot through the hole straight back. Continue draw­ing through smaller and smaller holes until the desired size has been reached. Anneal often, every five or six pulls, or when the metal becomes resistant or hard.

180 RECOMMENDED DOWEL DIAMETERS AND WIRE GAUGES FOR BASIC CHAIN TYPES

WORKING IN GOLD

Fusing links made of 22k gold is actually easier than fusing silver links once the process has been tried and practiced several times. The fuse-point is not as obvious, and the link must be watched carefully so as to see this, but there is more time after the link becomes red before the fusion takes place. The 22k alloy, although still very malleable, has a little more resistance than fine silver. In some instances, particularly when the wire is thinner (higher gauge), this property makes it easier to work; when the wire is fairly heavy (lower gauge), it becomes more difficult to form and weave it. Also, unlike fine silver, 22k gold must be pickled after it has been heated, since the copper in the alloy will oxidize.

TABLE 4 MELTING POINTS OF SILVER AND SILVER SOLDERS

Fine silver Sterling silver (92.5%) Hard silver solder Medium silver solder Easy silver solder

Melting Point (Degrees Fahrenheit)

1761 1640 1460 1390 1325

TABLE 5 MELTING POINTS OF GOLD AND GOLD SOLDERS

Fine gold 22k Gold 18k Gold-hard solder 18k Gold-medium solder 18k Gold--€asy solder

WORKING IN GOLD

Melting Point (Degrees Fahrenheit)

1945 1890 1520 1425 1390

Melting Point (Degrees Centigrade)

961 893 793 754 718

Melting Point (Degrees Centigrade)

1063 1032 827 774 754

181

EQUIPMENT, TOOLS, AND SUPPLIES

The following are lists of the equipment, tools, and supplies needed to make the chains in this book.

WORKROOM EQUIPMENT

Bench with heat-resistant top

Torch and tips (Smith: 00, 0, or No.1, Pres­tolite: No. la or No.2; for alloying: Smith No. 2 or Prestolite No. 3 or No.4)

Striker

Small kiln (desirable, not absolutely essential)

Flexible shaft

Bench vise

Dowel set (V16", 3/32", Vs", 5/32", V16", 7/32",

II" 9/ " 5/ " 11/ " 3/" 13/ " 7/ " 14 , 132 , 116, 132, 18, 132, 116 ,

15/ " 1/" 9 1 " 51" 111 "31" nd 7/'') 132 , 12 , /16 , 18, 116, 14 , a 18

Charcoal block (new)

HAND TOOLS

Small chain-nose pliers

Small round-nose pliers

Larger round-nose pliers

Grooved 1 Vz" pliers (groove must accom­modate 14 gauge wire)

Scissors (small) or snips

Fine tweezers

Tweezers for firing

Files (medium-No.4): barrette, rat-tail, half-round

Optivisor or other magnifying eyeglasses

Third arm or other holding device

Pickle pot (crock pot, lift out kind set at low heat, or a pyrex glass dish on a cup­warming unit)

Pickle-Sparex No. 2

Pickle and copper tongs

Rolling mill (for making gold wire)

Large vise bolted to a solid surface (for making gold wire)

Draw plates and tongs (for making gold wire)

1.4 mm round edge joint file

Scribes, two of the same size

Long scribe with a blunt point

Leather (or plastic) mallet

Small planishing hammer

jeweler's saw and blades (03 and 06)

Two metal blocks

182 RECOMMENDED DOWEL DIAMETERS AND WIRE GAUGES FOR BASIC CHAIN 1YPES

SUPPLIES

Flux-yellow, liquid

Flux brushes

Silver solders-hard, medium, and easy

Ochre and ochre brush

Indelible ink pen

Small metal ruler

Water dish

Empty small screw-cap jars (or empty

Paper towels

Masking tape

35 mm film containers) to be used for holding links

USEFUL ADDITIONS

Wire gauge

Calipers

Micrometer

SOME SOURCES OF EQUIPMENT, TOOLS, AND MATERIALS

METALS

T.B. Hagstoz & Son, 709 Sansom Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106 (215)-922-1627; Nat'l 1-800-922-1006

Hoover and Strong, 10700 Trade Road, Richmond, VA 23236 (804)-794-3700; Nat'l 1-800-225-5510; FAX 804-794-5687

Myron Toback, 25 West 47th Street, New York, NY 10036 NYC (212)-398-8300; NYS 1-800-442-8444; Nat'l 1-800-223-7550; FAX 212-869-0808

TOOLS

Allcraft Tool & Supply, 666 Pacific Street, Brooklyn, NY 11217 (18)-789-2800; Nat'l 1-800-645-7124

Anchor Tool & Supply, P.O. Box 265, Chatham, NJ 07928 (201)-635-2094

Frei & Borel, 119 Third Street, Oakland, CA 94607 (415)-832-0355; 1-800-772-3456; FAX 415-834-6217

SOME SOURCES OF EQUIPMENT, TOOLS, AND MATERIALS 183

Gesswein, 255 Hancock Avenue, Bridgeport, CT 06605 (203)-366-5400; 1-800-243-4466; FAX 203-366-3953

T.B. Hagstoz & Son, 709 Sansom Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106 Phil (215)-922-1627; Nat'l 1-800-922-1006

Rio Grande, 6901 Washington Avenue NE, Albuquerque, NM 87109 1-800-545-6566; Service 1-800-533-3299; FAX 505-344-9671

Myron Toback, 25 West 47th Street, New York, NY 10036 NYC (212)-398-8300; NYS 1-800-442-8444; Nat'l 1-800-223-7550 FAX 212-869-0808

KILNS

Allcraft Tool & Supply, 666 Pacific Street, Brooklyn, NY 11217 (718)-789-2800; Nat'l 1-800-645-7124

J E C Products, Inc., 416 South High Street, P.O. Box 111, Port Byron, IL 61275 (309)-523-2600

Rio Grande, 6901 Washington Avenue NE, Albuquerque, NM 87109 1-800-545-6566; Service 1-800-533-3299; FAX 505-344-9671

184 RECOMMENDED DOWEL DIAMETERS AND WIRE GAUGES FOR BASIC CHAIN TYPES

Glossary

These terms are particularly associated with those techniques used in making classical loop-in-Ioop chains.

Alloy A combination of two or more metals that have been intimately mixed, usually by fusing with heat.

Annealing A process in which metal is heated to remove the hardening that results from its being worked or handled. This process makes the metal softer and more easily worked.

Balling Up Using heat to form a small ball at one end of a wire or link. A modern technique for adding a decorative element to woven chains or clasps.

Butting Bringing the two ends of a link tightly and evenly together.

Double Loop-in-Loop A type of chain made by weaving one link through both loops of the two previous links on a chain.

Fine Gold Pure 24 karat (100%) gold. This is too soft and malleable to be worn or handled without deforming and must be alloyed for most jewelry.

Fine Silver Pure (100%) silver. Although this is similar in malleability to 24 karat gold, a few types of wearable jewelry can be made from it. Sterling silver may have to be used for some parts of a fine silver piece to provide extra strength.

Flux A substance used to prevent oxidation, eliminate surface tension, and guide the flow of metal during soldering.

Fusing The technique of joining metal without soldering by heating under conditions that cause the components to melt and flow into each other.

Join The line where two parts meet.

Joint The construction that unites two parts.

Jump Ring A ring that connects two parts of a piece of jewelry.

Karat (in England carat) The unit indicating the amount of fine gold in an alloy. Fine gold is 24 karat.

Karat Gold Indicates the amount of fine gold in a particular alloy; examples: 22k (91.6%), 18k (75%)' 14k (58.3%).

Loop-in-Loop Chain A type of chain made by weaving permanently closed links, fused or soldered, through each other. After the links are formed into long ovals and bent in half, the

185

loop of the link that is being added is passed through both loops of the most recently incorporated link on the chain.

Malleability The softness or workability of a metal.

Mandrel A tapered tool on which round or oval metal pieces can be shaped. The jaws of round-nose pliers are often used as small mandrels.

Milling Modification of the shape, size, and thickness of a piece of metal by passing it repeatedly between steel rollers.

Multiple A chain that has more than one row of links. Multiples are usually made by soldering links together before weaving or by weaving in two directions.

Ochre An earth pigment used by jewelers to insulate a portion of a metal piece while an adjacent section is being heated. The ochre, which can be removed later, is painted onto the area.

Pickle A weak acid solution used to remove oxide scale and flux from a piece after soldering.

Pinched Loop A type of chain woven like single loop-in-Ioop chains in which the links are constructed with loops at right angles to each other.

Planishing Gently flattening or extending a metal by striking it lightly with a smooth-faced hammer.

Point Soldering The use of the point on a soldering pick to place solder in a joint with precision and control.

Quenching Cooling hot metal by immersing it in water.

Scribe A small, pointed, tapered tool designed principally for marking or scoring metal, but with several other uses in chain making.

Single Loop-in-Loop A type of chain made by weaving a link through both loops of the previous link on a chain.

Solder An alloy with a melting point lower than that of the pieces that it is used to unite. Hard solder is closest to the melting point of the metal (or metals) being joined, medium solder is intermediate, and easy solder has the lowest melting point and can be used only for final soldering.

Soldering Joining two metal pieces with solder by heating in the presence of flux.

Sterling Silver A silver alloy, 92.5% fine silver, 7.5% copper. Sterling silver is stronger and harder than fine silver and is difficult to fuse successfully for chains.

Tamping The final shaping and evening of a chain done by gently tapping it with a leather, plastic, or rubber mallet.

186 GLOSSARY

Terminations Constructions that cover and finish the ends of a chain and that may form part of the clasp.

Truing Final adjustments made to a chain to bring all the links to the same openness and evenness.

Weave-Off A technique for creating two (or more) smaller chains with each originating on loops of a foundation (or initial) chain.

Wire Gauge The thickness of wire. The higher the gauge the thinner and lighter the wire.

Work Hardening The brittleness and loss of malleability that develops in metals as they are worked or handled.

GLOSSARY 187

INDEX

annealing, 11, 12-13

balling-up, 27, 29, 32, 34, 35, 153, 158, 161, 163, 174

basic loop-in-Ioop process, 2, 4, 20

basic tools, 6-12 bowtie link shape, 19-20 broken links, 22 Bronze Age, 2 Byzantine period, 2

Castellani, 3 charcoal block use, 11-12,

116 collar rings, 41, 42, 44, 45, 64,

65, 164 common problems, 21, 24,

47, 68, 90, 99, 110, 116 composite links, 115

dog bone link shape, 19-20 double loop-in-Ioop chains,

2, 67-89, 133 dowels, 9, 182

Egyptian chains, 1, 100 Etruscan chains, 2, 68, 100 evenness in weaving, 20 exclamation point link shape,

19-20

fine silver,S, 183 fluxes, 12, 183 four-way double loop-in-Ioop

chains, 107-108

four-way single loop-in-Ioop chains, 97-99

foxtail chain, 2, 67 fusing, 4, 16-18

graduated links, 116 Greek chains, 2, 54, 68, 80,

100, 123, 145

Hellenistic chains, 2, 123, 133 Hu, Mary Lee, 85

inconsistently formed links, 21,47

insufficiently fused links, 21

Kulicke-Stark Academy of Jewelry Art, 3

kilns, 11, 184

long dog bone link shape, 19-20

loop-in-Ioop chain names, 3 lopsided bowtie link shape,

19-20

malformed links, 21 malleability, 6 Medieval period, 2 multidirectional chains, 2, 4,

90-114 multirow chains, 2, 4,

115-151

Parrish, Louise, 27 pinched loop chains, 2,

46-66, 123, 126, 129

189

pinched loop link forming positions, 47, 48, 52

planishing, 34, 40, 53, 130, 155, 163

quadruple loop-in-Ioop chains (two-way double), 2, 100, 103, 145, 148

repairing broken links, 22 Roman chains, 2, 51, 54, 68,

80, 100, 123, 145

sailor's chains (pinched loop), 2, 46, 59, 123, 126, 129

sectional chains, 71 sextuple loop-in-Ioop chains

(three-way double), 2, 104-106

single loop-in-Ioop chains, 2, 23-24, 46, 91, 116, 130, 138, 142

solders, 12, 182, 183 soldered chains, 115-136 starters, 90, 92, 96, 98, 101,

105, 108 strap necklaces, 2, 145

tamping, 71 tapered chains, 109-114 tapered sections, 113 terminations, 71,169-176 three-way double loop-in-

loop chains, 2, 104-106

three-way single loop-in-loop chains, 94-96

through-bead links, 41-42, 63-66

truing, 24, 28, 32 two-way double loop-in-Ioop

chains, 2, 100-103, 145, 148

two-way double loop-in-Ioop chains, 91-94, 137, 142

190

22 karat gold, 5, 180

use of anannealed and annealed wire, 110

uneven pinched loop chain, 47

Walters Museum, 129 watchmaker's pliers, 10 weave-off chain, 80-84

weave-off links, 81 weaving chain, 5, 20 wooden drawplate, 94, 96,

+03 work hardening, 6 wrapped bead clasp, 164-166 wrapped bead chains, 54-58,

71-76 wrapping into chain, 55-58,

73-76, 155-157

INDEX