Recipe River Cafe London
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A taste of spring, from Ruth RogersThe River Caf's Ruth Rogers makes a feast from fresh spring
vegetables with four exciting new recipes
Ruth Rogers
The Observer, Sunday15 April 2012
Article history
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Squidwith peas and anchovies. Photograph: Romas Foordfor the Observer
Broad beans, artichokes, peas, agretti, cicoria walk into any Italian trattoria in spring
and you will be greeted with large plates overflowing with these beautiful, green
vegetables cooked in various ways. Agretti (feathery green leaves that translate as
"monk's beard") might be simply blanched then tossed with olive oil and lemon (at the
River Caf, we have been serving it hot with a bottarga sauce), the peas might be slow
cooked with prosciutto and garlic, the broad beans smashed with pecorino and mint and
served on bruschetta. Rose and I ate this for the first time near Siena in the house of
Giuseppe Mazzocolin, who makes the beautiful Felsina wine and olive oil. We came
home and put it on the menu right away.
Though some of these vegetables might be hard to find (agretti is available from
specialist stores and sometimes from sites such as natoora.co.uk), we are lucky here to
have an abundance of peas, broad beans and asparagus available soon. Fresh young
broad beans are perfect eaten raw; often in Tuscany you will end a meal not with a
sweet but with a plate of them still in their pods, with a chunk of local pecorino.
As I write, my friend Julie, who lives in Florence, tells me the markets are filled with
artichokes the morellino variety from Venturina in the Maremma region, which are
wonderful braised with the herb nepitella (part of the mint family). Not only are these
the most tender and tasty artichokes but the newly leafed nepitella has a fresher and
more subtle flavour than it will later on.
Artichokes are officially over in late spring but there are still some available from Sicily.
At The River Caf, my head chefs Joseph Trivelli and Sian Wyn Owen and I like to cook
them for as long as we can, roasted in foil (as below) or combined with the peas and
broad beans to make the Roman stew vignole.
So say goodbye to the broccoli, winter greens and dark vegetables of winter and
celebrate the lovely vegetables of spring.
ARTICHOKES BAKED IN FOIL WITH THYME
ste of spring, from Ruth Rogers | Life and style | The Observer http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2012/apr/15/ruth-rogers-river-c...
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Serves 6
small globe artichokes with stalks 12
lemon
garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced 4
fresh thyme, in sprigs 1 bunch
Maldon sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
olive oil
Preheat the oven to 220C/425F/gas mark 7. Prepare the artichokes by first trimming
the stalks, leaving about 5cm. Peel each stalk down to the paler core. Next, break off the
tough outer leaves until only the pale, tender leaves remain. Trim about 1cm off the top.
Open the leaves and, with a spoon, remove the choke. If the artichokes are very tender
this is not necessary. Rub the lemon over each artichoke to prevent discolouring.
Put a couple of slivers of garlic, a sprig of thyme and a generous amount of salt and
pepper into the small cavity in each artichoke. Lay each artichoke on a piece of foil large
enough to fold around into a parcel, and drizzle with olive oil. Pour 2 tbsp of water into
the bag and close tightly. Roast in a pre-heated oven for 30 minutes, or until tender.
SQUID WITH PEAS AND ANCHOVIES
Serves 4
squid the size of your hand 4
extra-virgin olive oil 3 tbsp
chopped parsley leaves 2 tbsp
dried chilli, crushed 1
cloves garlic, sliced 2
salted anchovy fillets 6
fresh peas, shelled 400g
lemon 1
Clean the squid by cutting the body open to make a flat piece. Scrape out the guts,
keeping the tentacles in their bunches but removing the eyes and mouth.
Using a serrated knife, score the inner side of the flattened squid body with parallel
lines 1cm apart, and then the same the other way to make cross-hatching.
To make the sauce, gently heat the olive oil in a small pan. Add the garlic and fry for 30
seconds before adding the chilli and the anchovies. Once the anchovies have dissolved,
remove the pan from the heat.
Bring a small pot of water to the boil and blanch the peas until tender. Drain and set
aside for dressing with the anchovy sauce.
Place the squid (including the tentacles) scored-side down on a very hot grill, season
with salt and p epper and grill for 1-2 minutes. Turn the squid pieces over; they will
immediately curl up, by which time they will be cooked.
Slice the squid into 1cm slices. Add to the peas with the warm anchovy dressing,
chopped parsley and juice of a lemon.
MOZZARELLA WITH SMASHED BROAD BEANS
AND PECORINO
Serves 6
young broad beans (podded) 1.3 kg
garlic cloves (peeled) 2
fresh mint leaves 4 tbsp
freshly grated pecorino cheese 4 tbsp
extra-virgin olive oil 4 tbsp
ste of spring, from Ruth Rogers | Life and style | The Observer http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2012/apr/15/ruth-rogers-river-c...
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2012 Guardian Newsand Media Limited or its affiliated companies. All rights reserved.
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Maldon sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
lemon juice of 1
For the bruschetta:
Pugliese or other sourdough bread, cut 1cm thick6 slices
large garlic clove, peeled 1
extra-virgin olive oil
mozzarella 1 ball
Pound the broad beans in a pestle and mortar with the garlic and mint. When the
texture is thick, remove and place in a bowl. Stir in the pecorino and the olive oil.
Season with salt, pepper and the lemon juice.
Toast the bread on both sides, then lightly rub with a cut clove of garlic. Drizzle with
extra-virgin olive oil.
Serve the smashed broad bean and pecorino bruschetta with to a ball of
mozzarella.
TAGLIATELLE WITH ASPARAGUS AND
PARMESAN
Serves 6
asparagus, freshly picked 1.5kg
fresh tagliatelle 600g
garlic, peeled and crushed 1 clove
crme frache 400ml
parmesan, freshly grated, plus extra for sprinkling 200g
large, organic free-range egg yolks 2
Maldon sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
Use a medium saucepan that will fit inside another, larger, saucepan with enough room
to half-fill with water. Put on heat.
Rub the crushed garlic round the surface of the smaller pan. Add the crme frache,
parmesan and egg yolks. Place the pan on top of the hot water and, stirring gently all
the time, cook until the sauce thickens about 15-20 minutes. Season with salt and
pepper. Keep warm.
Prepare the asparagus. Snap off the tough ends of the stems, keeping only the most
tender parts. Slice the stems and tips thinly on the diagonal. Bring a very large saucepan
of water to the boil, season with 2 tbsp salt and add the tagliatelle. Stir into the water
and cook for 1 minute, then add the asparagus and continue to cook for a further 3-4
minutes, or until the pasta and asparagus are al dente. Drain and place in a warmserving bowl.
Pour the fonduta (fondue) over the pasta and asparagus, and serve immediately with
freshly grated parmesan on warm plates.
For more information, go to rivercafe.co.uk. Nigel Slater returns next week
ste of spring, from Ruth Rogers | Life and style | The Observer http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2012/apr/15/ruth-rogers-river-c...
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In the meantime, you can browse some of our recipes here.
ste of spring, from Ruth Rogers | Life and style | The Observer http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2012/apr/15/ruth-rogers-river-c...
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