Rebuilding Nippon Denso Alternator 00-01 a - JeepForum

Search My Replies New Posts My Account 3 ejen

Advertise Here

JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Cherokee & Comanche Forums > Cherokee Technical Forum > Rebuilding Nippon Denso Alternator 00-0156041822AA

THE HAMMERS NEED YOUR HELP! Please fill out thisform. Iron Rock Off Road GROUP BUY! Plug N Play Speedo Correction for TJ and XJ's

LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Rate Thread

08-12-2009, 01:36 AM #1

sprintagogoRegistered User2000 XJ Cherokee Join Date: Jul 2007Location: Manchester, UKPosts: 1,390 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps iTrader Rating

Rebuilding Nippon Denso Alternator 00-01 56041822AA

After sinking my Jeep in a muddy puddle yet again and watching the voltmeter drop for about the4th time in 2 years I wasn’t overly concerned and continued to drive around for a little while.After 2-3 minutes I realised the alternator wasn’t going to come back on line like it always haddone before, so something drastic was going to be needed. Initially I tried flooding it with cleanwater from a bucket while the engine was running in the hope whatever crap was causing theproblem would be flushed out. This didn’t improve matters so I then got serious and emptiedabout a third of a can of WD40 in through any hole I could get access to. Still no improvement inthe vital signs.

It was mid afternoon on the Sunday of an off-road camping weekend so I figured now would be agood time to go and knock down camp and head home. The remaining battery charge got me the50-60 miles home but then after stopping outside the house I didn’t have enough charge torestart the motor. This was perfect timing, at least I had made it home and could throw thecharger on overnight.

The next day I pulled the Alternator and for the first time since I got my Jeep I delved into theinternals of the alt and just as expected found a set of gunged up brushes that were no longermaking contact with the commutator/slip rings. A few moments with an old toothbrush and the altwas functional again but this inspection had revealed that the resurrection would be short livedfor two reasons,1st, the brushes only had 1-2mm of free travel left so would soon wear to the point of requiringreplacement.2nd, while the alt turned over freely, the bearings didn’t feel 100% smooth so I didn’t have faithin continued use.

Luckily I had a spare alt from a slightly older XJ and this was a very similar Nippon Denso unitwhich apart from the terminals at the back was physically interchangeable. I used this to act as atemporary replacement while I rebuilt the failed but more powerful unit. For info on the simpleprocedure to make the early alt a plug-in swap see this - www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=828918

00-01 type alt top and older pre-99 alt below.

Rebuilding Nippon Denso Alternator 00-01 56041822AA - JeepF... http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/rebuilding-nippon-denso-alt...

Стр. 1 из 14 15.04.2011 20:06

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/rebuilding-nippon-denso-alt

Running the temporary alt gave me the chance to strip down the failing unit and source the partsneeded for the rebuild. Just for the sake of thoroughness I will start at the beginning.

Removing the Alternator

BEFORE DOING ANY WORK ON THE ALT MAKE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!!

To remove the alt you will probably need to remove the electric auxiliary fan so the bottom pivotbolt can come out (when refitting the alt put the bottom bolt in from the rear so the fan doesn’thave to be removed next time the alt comes out). The fan is held by 2 x 8mm head bolts at thetop and clips into the rad frame at the bottom. You will need to loosen the power steering pipesclamp from the alt bracket to allow the fan to come out and a good tug will disengage the bottomclips. The alt is then held by 15mm headed bolts on the pivot and the top clamp. Loosen thesethen undo the tensioner bolt about 1” to remove tension from the serpentine belt. The wireconnections at the back of the alt are a plug which has a squeeze catch and the main output cablewhich is a 10mm headed nut under a clip on insulation cover.


Стр. 2 из 14 15.04.2011 20:06


Now remove the top clamp nut and the bottom pivot bolt and the alt will easily fit out of theengine bay on the XJ models with the top mounted alt location.__________________Rollin on 32'zzzz

Quote:

Originally Posted by Muddeprived Who's eric?

Quote:

Originally Posted by HornedFrogHooah Sprintagogo, you're absolutely amazing. I don't care what they say about yall over acrossthe pond - you're a godsend!

08-12-2009, 01:40 AM #2


Dismantling the Alternator

Once the alt is on the bench the first thing is to remove the insulation from the main +ve outputpost. This is held by a 10mm headed nut which once removed allows the plastic to be lifted off.

The next step is removal of the rear cover which is held by 4 x 8mm headed nuts/screws ascircled.


Стр. 3 из 14 15.04.2011 20:06


The rear cover might be ‘stuck’ by dirt and corrosion but at this stage should come off with a littlepersuasion. This will reveal a bright red/orange rubber cover over the brushes and then thebrushes themselves can be removed by undoing the 3 x Ph#2 screws (do not be tempted to usepozi driver bits! Phillips are the best fit)

With the brushes out of the way you can now remove the component the 2 pin plug connects towhich is circled in blue and secured with the 2 remaining Ph#2 screws circled in red.


Стр. 4 из 14 15.04.2011 20:06


Then undo the 4 screws that secure the windings to the diode plate.

And then lift out the rubber insulators from the winding terminals.

At this point I decided to split the alt casing so started by removing the 4 nuts holding the twohalves together. 3 of the 4 nuts are circled in this picture with the 4th hiding by the +ve terminalpost.


Стр. 5 из 14 15.04.2011 20:06


I had to forcibly separate the two halves even though once cleaned up they just slid firmly backtogether so you may be luckier than me when splitting the casing. To split the halves I used athreaded rod between the peices to open up a small gap then released the pressure and put awedge into the opposite side which had opened up slightly before reapplying some pressure tofurther open the gap.

This left the slip ring end bearing stuck in the casing and this is just tapped out with a suitabledrift being careful not to damage the washers that fit between the bearing and casing. Next job isto remove the front pulley so the armature can be removed from the main casing. This is a trickyjob because try as I might I couldn’t secure the pulley tightly enough to undo the 22mm pulleynut without risking damage to the pulley. Fortunately the armature spindle has a 10mm hexagonon the end and by creating a special tool using a 22mm socket and some old steel I had lyingaround I made a tool that allowed me to fit a socket onto the 10mm hex while undoing the 22mmnut.


Стр. 6 из 14 15.04.2011 20:06


Once the pulley is off the armature slides easily out of the front bearing. The front bearing iscovered by a securing plate and once this plate is removed (4 x 7mm headed bolts) the bearingcan be tapped out by resting the casing on a suitable piece of pipe. Be careful not to damage thewinding wires during this stage!


Стр. 7 из 14 15.04.2011 20:06


Now once you have got this far the difficult part is over. The only possible complication would be ifthe slip ring end bearing stayed on the armature spindle rather than in the casing. Removing itfrom the spindle could be tricky without some kind of puller.

Replacement parts

You should now have 2 bearings and a brush cartridge that need to be replaced. I went to analternator specialist locally and from the TN121000-xxxx number he could supply the bearingsand brushes to order at a good price. As I was a bit tight I opted to service the existing brushesand just bought the bearings from him and loose brushes with copper flex tails (cost £1 instead of£12).

I worried about the quality of the new bearings but when they arrived they were an Americanmade product and my regular bearing supplier couldn’t get hold of any equivalent so I suspectthey might actually be OEM?

PFI part numbers for the large front bearing is 949100-3330 and the smaller one is 949100-2790__________________Rollin on 32'zzzz

Quote:


Quote:


Стр. 8 из 14 15.04.2011 20:06



08-12-2009, 01:43 AM #3


Refurbishing the brush cartridge

If you choose to re-use the existing brush cartridge instead of replacing with a new item you onlyneed a soldering iron to do this. First step is to remove the cover by sliding it down from the brushcartridge.

Remove the worn out brushes by melting the solder while pulling the brushes. This can be a bittricky and takes a little more heat than you expect.

The new generic brushes are slightly different to the originals and this means the tails need tofeed through the side of the spring coils before being fed into the terminal holes and soldered. Pullthe tails tight enough to keep the brushes within the cartridge then trim the excess tails once thesolder has cooled.


Стр. 9 из 14 15.04.2011 20:06


Now your brushes are ready to be re-used.

The rebuild

Putting the alt back together again is really quick compared to taking it apart, sourcing parts andfixing up the brushes.

First I drifted the large front bearing in and replaced the cover plate. I found my 36mm front hubsocket was the perfect size to match the outer race diameter when tapping it into the casing.

At this point I grabbed some wire wool and gave the slip rings a rub to remove the grime and givethe new brushes a fresh surface to bed into. Next locate the armature into the casing and refit thepulley and 22mm nut using the special tool made earlier.Clean out the bearing housing in the other half of the casing and then carefully drift the smallbearing onto the armature with a suitable pipe or deep socket. Be very careful not to damage theslip rings and don’t forget the thin flat washer that fits between the bearing and armature here.Once the bearing is all the way home fit the flanged washer onto the spindle up tight against thebearing and rest the spring washer onto the bearing. Lower the casing onto the main body andpush or tap it home till the two halves close together. Fit and tighten the four nuts to fasten thecasing together.

The rubber insulators need fitting onto the 4 winding terminals now prior to installing the diodeplate.

Then secure the diode plate with the four screws around the outside edge.


Стр. 10 из 14 15.04.2011 20:06


Replace the 2 pin plug and then the refurbed brushes

followed by the rubber cap prior to refitting the rear cover and +ve post insulation.


Стр. 11 из 14 15.04.2011 20:06


And that is the rebuild complete. You should hopefully have something that looks like this -

And see this once you reconnect the battery and start the motor -


Стр. 12 из 14 15.04.2011 20:06


Edit Tags

__________________Rollin on 32'zzzz

Quote:


Quote:


08-12-2009, 04:12 AM #4

AZ JeffRegistered User2000 XJ Cherokee Join Date: Sep 2005Location: Gilbert, ArizonaPosts: 5,565 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps iTrader Rating

Good job, my man. Now how about a quick cleanup of the exterior with a wire brush, so as toconvince all your mates you put in a new reman. alternator, instead of just doing the rebuildyourself? (Just kidding.)

Years ago, you used to be able to get ALL these kinds of parts for alternators and starters at thelocal auto parts stores. Nowadays, finding this stuff is a real challenge. I admire your ingenuity.__________________AZ-Jeff1992 XJ 2" lift -- RIP2000 XJ 3" lift -- Australian Ford Big Brakes up front, rock rails, ZJ rear discs (with WORKINGparking brake), C4x4 rear bumper/tire carrier, Hella H4 headlights, IPF driving lights, OEM skidplates, OME springs/shocks, JKS LCA's, JKS Sway Bar links.

Tags

None

Quick Reply

Message:

Fonts Sizes


Стр. 13 из 14 15.04.2011 20:06


Quick Reply

Options

Quote message in reply?

« Previous Thread | Next Thread »Forum Jump

Suggested Threads

Rebuilding AW4? - Cherokee Technical Forum (2 replies)

Rebuilding the 4.0 - Cherokee Technical Forum (3 replies)

Rebuilding me new rig...help please :) - Cherokee Technical Forum (2 replies)

rebuilding my '89 - Cherokee Technical Forum (0 replies)

Rebuilding my 4.0 - Cherokee Technical Forum (4 replies)

ForumJeepSpaceGalleryReviewsVideosGroupsArticlesEvents

Jeep ClubsBlogsWikiLinksAdvertisingMembersPrivacyTop |Contact

CityProfile - City / StateForums

Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted andtrademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation.

JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.

Jeep Motor MountsHigh performance 2.5L & 4.0L engine mountsfor YJ, TJ & XJ. MMLs, too.www.BrownDogIndustries.comBall Bearings On-LineYou On Line Bearing Super Store Easy find BallBearingBearingsDirect.ComBearings - Buy onlineMajor brands - No Min - Amx-Visa-MC SKF,Timken, Dodge, McGill, INAwww.bdi-usa.comHeim Joints & MoreOver 1,200,000 Heim Joints in Stock Orderonline. Best Prices Availablewww.midwestcontrol.com


Стр. 14 из 14 15.04.2011 20:06

http://www.BrownDogIndustries.com

http://www.bdi-usa.com

http://www.midwestcontrol.com


Rebuilding Nippon Denso Alternator 00-01 a - JeepForum

Documents

Transcript of Rebuilding Nippon Denso Alternator 00-01 a - JeepForum