Range Development
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Transcript of Range Development
PRINCIPLES AND TECHNIQUES OF
MERCHANDISING
SIGNATURE OF THE FACULTY SUBMITTED BY:
ALOK JAISWAL HAGE MONYA
EL DIM NIANG SIANG KULDEEP SINGH
LIPSA MOHAPATRA MONIKA VERMA
SWETA DAS
RANGE DEVELOPMENT
ON
WOMEN’S
SPRING- SUMMER WEAR – 09 IN
GOKALDAS IMAGESBANGALORE
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RANGE DEVELOPMENT PROCEDURE
RANGEDEVELOPMENT
STORY MAKING LOOK
RESEARCH FORECASTING
CASUAL LOOK FORMAL WEAR JEANS WEAR
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
FABRIC SELECTION DOCKETING
SAMPLING TRIM SELECTION
PRESENTATION
SAMPLE SELECTION
ORDER PLACEMENT
COSTING
TNA
ALL APPROVALS
SHIPMENT
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RANGE DEVELOPMENT
It basically depends on the
Season selected
Buyer(his own ranges)
Buyer strategy
A manufacturer design or product development department plans and creates
new styles within the company’s image or identity.
Merchandisers or product managers, designers, and their assistants are all
involved in the development of a line or collection of the fashion manufacturers’
product.
Product/Range development is the process of market and trend research,
merchandising design, and development of the final product.
In a large company, a designer, a merchandiser, perhaps a product manager,
and their assistants are assigned to each division.
Mainly it’s the team effort that gives the results.
Each season, the design and merchandising departments of each division are
responsible for creating a new line, the seasonal collection, that the manufacturer
will sell to store retail buyers.
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Work of a new line begins approximately eight months before the selling season.
Say sportswear design begins a year in advance of the selling season. The
design and merchandising team has about two and a half months to complete
line development.
Designers and merchandisers also work on two or more lines at once, designing
a future collection while checking samples from the one that is about to be
produced.
They are finishing work on the spring line while beginning fabric research for
summer.
Most women’s wear companies produce four or five seasonal lines a year;
spring, summer, transitional, fall ,and holiday or resort.
Men’s sportswear firms also have four line releases a year as compared to men’s
suits, which have just two. Children’s wear firms have three or four, depending on
the product focus.
RESEARCH
In this the designers along with the manufacturers go for research on the basis of
preferences done by the buyer. They research their target market to learn buying
habits and preferences. Manufacturers and retailers ask consumers directly
about their preferences.
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Consumer reactions are compiled and tabulated to find preferences for certain
garments or accessories, colors, or sizes, and so on, or preferences for particular
retailers.
This information can be used to create new products to fit specific consumer
tastes. Methods of questioning consumers can be formal or informal. Buyers and
sales associates may talk with customers in the store.
Manufacturers may hire market research companies to make inquiries by
telephone or mail and to hold consumer focus group meetings.
Every manufacturer and retailer researches its own sales records. Rising sales
statistics show what styles have passed their peak. Overall weak sales show that
a style is not meeting consumer needs for fashion, quality or fit.
FASHION FORECASTING
Designers, merchandisers and buyers must learn to predict trends, which are
new directions in fashion.
It would be impossible to ask consumers what they will want to wear a year or
two in advance – they would not know themselves. Designers, merchandisers
and retailers must work so far ahead of the selling season to produce or stock
the fashions their customers will want, they must learn to anticipate customers’
wants and needs – to be fashion forecasters of the future.
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Fashion forecasting involves:
1. Studying market conditions – consumer’s buying behavior is influenced
by society, economics, technology, and the environment
2. Noting the life-styles of the men, women, or children who are the
customers
3. researching sales statistics to establish sales trends
4. Evaluating the popular designer collections to find fashions (colors,
silhouettes, fabrications, lengths) that suggest new directions or “trends”
5. Surveying fashion publications, catalogs, and design services from
around the world
6. Observing “street fashions”(what people are wearing) and what
celebrities are wearing
7. Keeping up with current events, the arts, and the mood of the public
STORY MAKING
This is followed by forecasting. In this the designers have to look for all the
factors that need to be taken into part when forecasting a new product.
Say if they go for a women’s garment then they have to look for all the added
accessories to it, which has to be in tune with the product to be forecasted. This
in tune has to be season based, else its of no use.
Based on the work, they need to decide the graphics for print, embroidery,
styling, etc. Color palette is done on the basis of color selection.
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LOOK
This again depends on the type of attire the manufacturer is into. When a
manufacturer thinks of producing a garment then he goes for casual look, formal
wear, jeans wear.
In casual look he has to go for colors and prints which give a cool and
comfortable look, and this should match with the season, its feel and everything.
In formal wear the look has to be very professional, as a result of which things
have to be planned accordingly. The trousers, cufflinks, and belts should match
with the look. In jeans wear, the look will be very casual and T-shirts, shades and
watches etc have to be matched accordingly.
Jeans are again of various colors and GSM which has to be chosen by the
designers looking into the target market
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
PRODUCT DEVELOP
MENT
COMPANY GOALS
MERCHANDISING:PLAN,
BUDGET, LINE, SIZE
DESIGN:IDEA/
HSKET
SAMPLE PATTERN
MARKET AND
TREND RESEARC
H
SEWING/ FITTING
SAMPLE GARMENT
COLOR
ECONOMICAL,
GLOBAL & TECHNOLOGICAL
INFLUENCES
LINE SELECTIO
N
FABRIC
CULTURAL &
ARTISTIC RESOURC
ES
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Merchandisers or product managers, designers and their assistants are all
involved in the development of a line or collection of the fashion manufacture’s
product. This is known as product development or range development i.e. a
development of a line of products according to the season or occasion or theme
chosen.
The product development team
Responsibilities for product development, design and merchandising vary from
manufacturer to manufacturer. Product development is the process of market
and trend research, merchandising, design and development of the final prod
Merchandising:
Merchandising is planning to have the right merchandise at the right time in right
quantity and at the right price to meet the needs of the company’s target
customers.
It is also the manner in which a group or line of garments is presented to the
public – the way the line will look in the stores.
Cost merchandising:
Based on costs for last season’s styles, merchandisers establish price points for
garments to be designed. It is very important for merchandisers and designers to
understand how fabric and production costs affect pricing.
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Scheduling :
The merchandiser, or product manager, sets up a schedule of deadlines for
styling, finished samples, and production to meet the required shipping dates.
These dates are, of course, coordinated with the production department.
Merchandisers meet regularly with designers, the sales staff, and production
managers to discuss company goals, budget requirements, line size, delivery
dates, sizes and so on. Merchandisers and designers have to plan production
based on how they think the line will sell by group, color, and size in the stores.
Seasons
Each season, the design and merchandising departments of each division are
responsible for creating a new line, the seasonal collection, that the manufacturer
will sell to retail store buyers. Work on a new line begins approximately eight
months before the selling season. The design and merchandising team has
about two and a half months to complete line development.
Design elements:
Keeping the theme of the group in mind, a designer must incorporate a pleasing
combination of all elements of good design – color, fabric, line, and shape into
each garment.
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Fabric :
Designers and merchandisers first select fabrics for each group in the line and
specific fabrics for each style.
It includes:
1. Fabric selection
2. Fabric characteristics
- texture
- performance
- weight and hand
3. Fiber content
4. Patterns
5. Price considerations
6. Sample cuts
Color
Color is the first element to which consumers respond, often selecting or
rejecting a garment because of its color appeal. Color is particularly important in
today’s fashion. Therefore designers must consider their customers and provide
colors that are both appealing and flattering. People connect certain colors with
holidays and seasons. We can choose warm colors, cool colors and neutrals.
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Color dimensions:
It has three different dimensions:
- hue
- value
- intensity
Line
After selecting the fabric, the designer must consider the other elements of good
design. Line refers to the direction of visual interest in a garment created by
construction details such as seams, openings, pleat, gathers, tucks, topstitching,
and trims.
Lines have the power to create moods and feelings. Vertical lines remind us of
upright, majestic figures and suggest stability.
Horizontal lines are like lines at rest, they suggest repose, quiet, and calm. Soft,
curving lines express grace, and diagonal lines imply powerful movement and
vitality.
Shape:
It is used to describe the outline of the whole garment. It is responsible for one of
our first impressions of a garment.It should be related to body structure, but
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some variation is needed to add interest. Bodies that do well in one season are
usually updated in a new fabric or color for the next season.
Style board:
To chart the development of the line as a whole, the designer arranges working
sketches of all garments in fabric and color groups on a large board, which is
essentially a master plan. The board is posted on the wall of the design room.
Designing a sample garment:
The first sample garment or prototype is the test to see if a design is successful.
The first pattern:
The next step in the product development procedure is making the first pattern,
which is used to cut and sew the prototype, or first sample garment.
The pattern is made in a sample size, the one used for testing and selling
purposes. The patternmaker can use either of two methods for making patterns:
draping, flat pattern, or computer generated.
The designer work sheet:
Records are kept on all styles as they develop. Each designer fills out a work
sheet containing information that guides the production department in figuring
costs and in ordering piece goods and trimmings. Many companies now use
product data management(PDM) systems to collate this information. In this case,
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each department responsible (such as fabrics, trims, designs) enters its own data
into the computer.
The work sheet or PDM includes all or part of following information:
- date the garment was designed
- selling season
- sizes in which design will be made
- style no assigned to the design
- short description of garment
- working sketch of the design to make it easy to identify the garment
- colors or color combination
- fabric swatches
- material descriptions, like fabric type, source, width, and price per
yard
- marker width, usually one inch narrower than fabric
- trimmings information: kinds, sources, sizes, and prices of buttons,
zippers, braids, lace, belts, elastic, and so on; special fabric
treatments done by outside contractors, such as pleating , spaghetti
straps, and ties, are also included .
- labor costs for grading , marking, cutting, sewing, finishing, garment
dyeing , and washing; etc.
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DOCKETING:
It’s a style sheet made by designer, with all designs of the product, trims ,
accessories, for sampling purposes. This sheet is given to the production
department people mainly the sample tailors who initially go for preparing the
garment before production starts in bulk.
The information about all the things related to the garment is a result of the
output of the designer, of the manufacturing unit.
SAMPLING:
To test the forecasted design, the designer orders a 3-5 yard cut of a fabric to
make a sample garment. They initially order enough for many samples, perhaps
100 yards or more. They commit to a fabric order even before having a collection
to show. Once fabrics have been selected, the designer can begin to create
styles.
PRESENTATION:
In this the style the design that the designer has made is given a shape by the
sample tailors under the manufacturer’s brand name. And when the buyer’s
come, they go through the sample designs.
It happens they may like the style and ask for production, some may even reject
it. If they accept they may ask for bulk production with the same style color and
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everything but if they wish they can ask for slight variations in fabric, color, trims,
etc. Once the proto-sample is made for a particular buyer it is liable to change.
But until then it’s the manufacturer’s property, so he can do as he wishes.
SAMPLE SELECTION:
When the buyer chooses the particular style, the he goes for sample selection.
During this process he can select any design, fabric, trim, and colors.
For fabric – fabric type, quality, quantity, sources etc.
For trims – threads, elastics, interfacings, laces, embroidery, ribbons, braids and
cords, zippers and buttons, labels, hangtags, etc.
The thing is finalized here and the manufacture starts with the proto sample.
ORDER PLACEMENT:
When everything is finalized then the order is placed before the company by the
buyer or retailer. This then starts in bulk and the company tries to complete the
order in allocated time.
This deal is made with the top management and the merchandiser of the
company with the buyer, wherein all negotiations are made, and things are
finalized there. Any changes asked by any party are not taken into consideration,
normally.
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COSTING:
The production cost of a garment is mutually determined by the manufacturer
and contractor. Costing is an exact calculation by the sourcing department and
the contractor, using actual figures for materials and labor, based on how long it
takes to make an entire garment.
They use the designer’s work sheet, a prototype garment, and the production
pattern to analyze materials and construction. Usually, final costs are mutually
agreed on between manufacturer and contractor based on the production costs
of similar garments made last season. A detailed cost analysis may be made for
each garment, including expenses for fabric, trims, cutting, labor, overhead, sales
commission, and manufacturer’s profit.
COST CONSIDERATIONS
1. Materials
2. Trimmings
3. Production pattern making, grading and marking
4. Spreading and cutting
5. Assembly
6. Finishing
7. Freight
8. Duty and quota
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Wholesale pricing:
The manufacturer determines the wholesale price by adding the cost of labor and
materials to a mark up.
The markup covers sales commission usually 7-10%, overhead, and a profit
which is needed for staying in business.
They include the direct cost: fabric purchased, trimmings, labor and Indirect cost:
design and manufacturing, general administrative overhead, sales commission,
trade discount, markdown allowance, promotion, other retail services, profit
before taxes, etc.
Costing in the company is done with a minimum GP (gross profit) of 20% if its of
a domestic order, wherein if it an export order it diverts 14% and 8.7% goes for
the duty drawback, which is obtained from the government to the company. This
is added to the company’s account.
So 14%+8.7% = around 20%. This minimum quantity plays a vital role where
company quotes high profit.
TIME AND ACTION PLAN(TNA PLAN)
This is planned by the PPC (pre-production planning and control) department,
where a pre-planned format is planned starting from the production floor to the
shipment.
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Respective departments are given with the target sheets where they have to plan
according to the sheet and reach their target.
TNA plan is discussed with each department managers and put before them. So
production has to be completed in time followed by finishing department,
packaging and then truck out.
In cases of unavoidable circumstances the matter can be negotiated with the
buyer.
APPROVALS:
When all the above things are done, all the approvals are passed from all
departments, like quality, production, planning, merchandising, etc.Then finally
the buyer gives a nod and the company plans for shipment in whichever mode it
has been asked to.
SHIPMENT:
Now the fabric is ready for shipment. The cost of shipping completed garments
from the contractor to the manufacturer’s warehouse must be calculated. A
percentage of the air or sea freight cost must be added to the cost of each
garment. The cost of shipping garments to the retailer is generally paid by the
receiver. Manufacturers must pay air- freight, however, if they are late with their
delivery.
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To further complicate matters, manufacturers have to choose from various
combinations of transportation packages that must be negotiated. Manufacturers
make these arrangements directly with contractors, through representatives, or
agents.
FREE ON BOARD (FOB)
Includes payment for the contractor to get the finished merchandise to the ship or
plane in the country where it is made.
LANDED , DUTY PAID(LDP):
It is a complete package, which pays the contractor to ship the merchandise,
including paying duty, to the distribution center in the USA by a specified date.
This costs more but is less bother.
COST, INSURANCE, FREIGHT (CIF )
It pays for insurance and freight to the final destination. Manufacturers must allow
approximately 4-35 days for sea transportation, depending upon origin, or 3-10
days for air delivery. Finished garments are returned to the manufacturers’
distribution centers for shipping to retail stores.
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LADIES COLLECTION
Style board
Season: Spring-Summer
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Mood Board
Sketch
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Styles : Product line
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Specification sheet
Mood Board
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SILHOUTTES
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