MAP OF RAJASTHANRAJASTHAN

RAJASTHAN• Rajasthan is situated in the north-

western part of India.

• The history of human settlement in north Indian state of Rajasthan dates back to about 5000 years ago. This region was long known as Gurjaratra that is country protected or ruled by the Gujars before it came to be called Rajputana, early in the Muslim period. It is also the famous land of the Rajput warriors renowned for their heroic deeds on the battlefield.

• Parts of Rajasthan belonged to the Indus Valley Civilization between about 3500 and 1750 BCE.

• Rajasthan was a part of the illustrious Mauryan Empire around 321-184 BCE. It had also been a part of Republics like Arjunyas, Hunas, Kushans, Malavas, Saka Satraps and the Yaudheyas. The Guptas reigned in the 4th century. Some Buddhist caves and Stupas have been found in Jhalawar, in the southern part of Rajasthan.

ANCIENT HISTORY

Ruins of Kalibanga. Brick wall can be seen in the hole in the centre.

The passage to the graveyard found in Kalibanga.

COSTUMESThe costumes of the Rajasthani people are very colourful costume from head to toe like the turban, clothes, jewelery, and even the footwear.

The two upper garments worn by the Rajasthani men are the bandi and the angarkhi, although today the kurta is considered to be the traditional wear and takes precedence over all other garments. Among royalty and the aristocracy, garments like the achkan, and choga are also worn.

MALE ATTIRES• ANGARKHA

Angarkha, which can be loosely translated as body protector, is a garment which is mostly made of cotton.

• DHOTI

Dhotis are used to cover the lower part of the body. The Dhotis are used as regular wears which are usually white in colour. However on special occasions people also wear silk Dhotis with zari border.

It is worn in the upper part of the body. It comes in different colours.

• PATKA

Patka was a garment worn by people of upper classes and royal families. It is a cotton cloth which measures about 1.5 m by 1 m. It was traditionally kept on the shoulders or worn around the waist to tuck in the weapons during medieval times

• CHOGA

The choga is a popular garment amongst the Royal Rajasthani men. It is described as a long-sleeved robe. A pair of loops and cloth-cased buttons fastens the garment at the chest. It is worn as an outer-garment over a angarkha.

• ACHKAN

The Achkan is a full-sleeved tunic with a high round neck. This garment has a length, which falls about 3-5 cm. above the knee. It has a full front opening in the centre.

FEMALE ATTIRES• CHOLI It is a blouse which is loosely fitted . The choli is usually cropped, allowing exposure of the navel, the cropped design is particularly well-suited .

• GHAGRAwhich is a long skirt that reaches up to the ankle. It has a narrow waist which increases in width and flares towards the base. The skirt is usually not folded at the lower end like normal skirts but a broad. The width and the number of pleats in the Ghaghra are said to symbolise the wealth of a person. Prints used in ghagra are Mothra, Chunari and Laharia prints.

MOTHRA CHUNARI LEHARIYA

• Odhni The Odhni is a specialty of Rajasthani costume. It is a piece of cloth which is about10 feet long and 5 feet wide. One corner of the Odhni is tucked in the skirt while the other end is taken over the head and right shoulder..

• Pilia

A decorated Odhni with a yellow shade and central lotus motif coloured in red is termed as Pilia and gifted as a tradition from the Parents to their daughter on the birth of a child.

MEN’S JEWELLERYThe jewelleries of Rajasthan have a unique style and are embellished with emeralds, diamonds and other precious stones. • Hansli is an ornament that is worn by men. It derives its

name from the collarbone on which it rests. The basic form of the hansli is a rigid circular silver torque with a hollow or solid construction.

• kalgi is a type of Rajasthani jewellery for men that were a feather plume inspired by the feathered crests of the wonderful birds, native to their region.

• The sarpatti is another turban ornament that primarily came into vogue around the late eighteenth century

The sarpech is a compound of two words, namely sar literally meaning `head` and pech, referring to a screw. As an ornament, although it was flat, it was shaped like a single vertical feather, with a curved tip

The turra often shaped like a fan, is an ornament and used on the turban.

Baleora is a gold necklace, commonly worn by influential Hindus; it consisted of seven chains that were further adorned with seven clasp units, which were set with gemstones.

Khag or Kandhe-Ka-Gahna was made of gold, its facade side set with gemstones and enamelled on the reverse.

The bajuband or the armlet was usually made of floral motifs and these designs were marked with precious stones

Beenti are rings worn on the fingers

Kada or the bracelets are made of either gold or silver. It is a common piece of jewellery and worn by almost all Rajasthani men.

The gajjalu are cast brass ankle bells that are sewn on to a strip of leather and worn by male-dancers when they perform. This is a theatrical costume-jewellery worn only by performers for any special occasion.

WOMEN’S JEWELLERYThe Karanphool Jhumka (a bell shaped earring), Toti (parrot shaped earring), Lathan (grape) and Pipal Patti (heart shaped ornament) are the most common earrings worn by Rajasthani women.

ORNAMENTATION FOR THE EARS

CHANDAN HAAR

HANSLI

MOHANMALA

TUSSI

CHAMPAKALI

MOHRU

ORNAMENTATION FOR THE NECK

GOKHRU

AMULET

Jewellery for the neck is one of the most important items of jewellery and there is a bewildering range of strings, sometimes with rubies and emeralds strung with them of with gem studded pendants. There is the chandan haar ,mohanmala ,champakali, mohrun, hansli, amulet, gokhru

BRACELET BAJU BANDH

BANGELS

KADA

HATHPHOOL

ARSI

GAJRA

ORNAMENTATION FOR THE ARMThere is an enormous range in armlets and the most common ones are gold bands with precious stones. The smallest bangle to fit the wrist is the kada. Then come bangles, any number of them in various shapes and designs. There may be the chuda. The hathphool is a bangle with rings connected to it by chains that lie over the back of the hand. The rings are of a great variety. A quaint & charming ring is the arsi, with a tiny mirror and worn on the ring finger

CHUDA

ORNAMENTATION FOR THE FOOT

The foot ornaments are of two types the toe rings and the anklets. The toe rings and the for the big toe are called anvat. There is a great exuberance in the designs of the anklets. Most of them have little bells that tinkle as the lady walks. And are often referred to as jhanjhar.

ANVAT JHANJHAR

ORNAMENTATION FOR THE WAISTThe women also wear girdles and belts around their waists. These are usually made of gold and set with rubies, emeralds and diamonds. Belts are usually broad bands of flattened, twisted metal in silver or gold, encrusted with gems, and embossed with exquisite designs.

HEADGEAR OF MEN

HEADGEAR OF WOMENBORLA & MATHAPATI

Rajasthani women adorn themselves starting from their forehead upto the toe. Rajasthan has a long tradition of ornaments for the forehead. The bor is usually placed right in the middle of the forehead, or as is the sir-maang that is worn only in the parting of the hair, or be in the shape of a headband like the mathapatti. The bor or rakhdi, which is also known as a ghundi or borla adorns the centre of the forehead, at the hairline. It is made of either gold or silver and its shape is generally spherical, however it can sometimes have a flat top. The designs are usually created on the surface through the procedure of granulation. On its sides and back these are provisions for attaching other ornaments also. The bor, is sometimes, made in a combination of lac and gold metal. A small tube is attached to the front of the sphere. Sometimes colourful beads are usually threaded on the curved face of the ornament. A fine chain called the tidibalka adorns below the bor forming a semi-circular frame for it. The bor is an essential symbol of marriage and is worn only after the wedding rituals are completed. It is presented to the bride by her husband`s family and is worn everyday for as long as she remains a married woman.

FOOTWEAR

These are mostly tight fitting and triangular at the front end though, in some rare cases, they may even be rounded.These may be plain, but the more decorative footwear is decorated with heavy embroidery and, sometimes, little pom-poms as well. For those engaged in outdoor work such as agriculture, jutis are made of tough leather with little decoration. Those who stay primarily indoors, women, for instance, use footwear made of soft light-coloured leather, richly embroidered in bright colours, with elaborate trimmings.

Mojri / Mojdi or Jutiya is not just a type of shoes but it is deeply connected with the hundreds of year old Rajasthani traditions and lifestyle. Made by pure leather, mojri is now known globally.