Raising Chickens and Planning for Them

7/28/2019 Raising Chickens and Planning for Them

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Building a Pasture Shelter, Predators, and

Number of Chickens Allowed per total Area

in Square Feet

This pictorial presentation of my latest pasture shelter construction project appeared in the

October/November 2007 issue ofBackyard Poultry Magazine, a great resource for thehomestead flock owner.

Thinking Through the DesignMaterialsNotes on MaterialsCuttingFramingRoofingWheels

Thinking Through the Design

InDesigning a Pasture Shelterand other articles in the Pasturing the Flock section, I discussthe principles to consider when designing a pasture shelter for poultry; and share photographsrepresenting the many approaches poultry people have made to this project. This article describesstep-by-step construction of a serviceable shelter that should be adequate for most backyardflocks. It includes a nest box and plenty of roosts, so would work well with adult laying flocks.
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However, it could also be used to raise young birds on pasture. This particular model is floorless,but a floor of wire or plastic mesh could easily be added if desired.

Old A-frame

I like the A-frame structure for a shelter, which provides more structural integrity for less weight,and is more stable in the wind, than more boxy designs. When planning my new shelter,therefore, I decided in many ways to duplicate my most successful design from the past, with afew modifications learned through experience.

The biggest change from my previous design is the choice of metal roofing to cover it, in lieu ofwoven poly fabric. Since reading the articlePolymers Are Forever&rdquo(Orion magazine,May/June 2007), I have tried to cut out use of plastics wherever I can. It is disturbing to realizethat that plastic which we use with such convenience today will most likely still be somewhereon the planet in the time of our great-great-great-grandchildren. Still, the woven poly fabrics maybe the best choice for some. As said inDesigning a Pasture Shelter, it is much lighter thanmetal roofing. (The metal roofing on my new A-frame added about 80 pounds to the shelter. Apiece of 24-mil woven poly, custom cut to cover this same shelter, would weigh about 10pounds.) Of course, up to a point the added weight can be an advantage: There is no doubt thatmy new, heavier shelter is more stable in the wind. Cost might also be a factor when decidingbetween these two coverings: I spent $112 for the metal roofing for my new shelter (including apiece of ridge vent to cap it)a piece of 24-mil white/silver woven poly sized to fit this structurewould have cost $78. A final consideration is durability: My previous A-frame with a 24-milwoven poly cover is still going strong. Based on current degree of degrading from weathering, Iwould estimate a total service life of twelve to fifteen years. The galvanized steel roofing withbaked-on enamal paint which I used (Fabrals Grandrib 3) comes with a 25-year warranty, so Iexpect total service life to be considerably more than that. (One could of course choose plaingalvanized roofing, but the savings realized would not cover the cost of painting it more than acouple of times.)

Another change I was glad to make: In the past, I have used 8-inch wheels on my pastureshelters, with the -inch bolts that serve as the wheels axles set in the exact center of the bottomrails. This configuration results in a very narrow gap between the ground and the rear rail, whichas a result tends to catch on every bump or tussock when I move the shelter. For the new shelter,I bought a set of 10-inch wheels. Instead of drilling through the center of the rail for the axlebolt, I offset the hole toward the bottom of the rail by an inch. The combination of the greaterwheel radius and the lower axle hole gives me an additional two inches of clearance whenmoving the shelter. Based on your own particular needs, you mayprefera smaller clearance (toprevent escape of birds from inside while moving, for example), but I love the way my newChicken Ferrari rolls across the pasture.
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The following report is intended to give you, the reader and pastured poultry keeper, a solidintroduction to the construction of a proven shelter design. There are endless modifications youcould make to better serve your own needs and circumstances.

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Materials

6 - 6-ft sheets of Fabrals Grandrib 3 painted steel roofing1 - 10-ft 6-in Fabrals ridge ventFabrals painted screws with neoprene washers (optional) or a box of neoprene washers4 - 12-ft construction grade 2x4s6 - 10-ft 2x4s4 - 8-ft 2x4sAssorted deck screws (See note.)4 to 8 metal corner braces (See note.)

4 - -in carriage bolts, 5 inches long4 each flat washers, lock washers, and hexagonal nuts for the carriage bolts4 wing nuts for the carriage bolts4 wheels with -inch axle bores1 10-ft roll 1-inch mesh poultry wire, 48 inches wideSmall fence staples (for poultry wire)2 pairs 1--inch utility hinges1 - 1--inch barrel bolt4 - 4--inch open screw hooks (ceiling hooks)1 sheet -inch CDX plywood (optional)Small roll of -inch hardware cloth (optional)

1 quart or so wood sealerA short length of twisted wire cable and a scrap of old garden hose

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Notes on Materials

(1) I ordered the metal roofing through my local farm co-op, custom cut to my order. There areother options for metal roofing than Fabrals Grandrib 3, of course. Check out the possibilitieswith your local farm supply. The width of coverage of the Grandrib 3 is 36 inches, so the choiceof three pieces per side dictated a total length for the shelter of nine feet. As for the length of the

roofing pieces: I used the Pythagorean theorem to calculate the 6-ft length, based on a bottomrail of 8 ft 3 in, and on a preference for cutting angles on the ends of the rafters at 45 degrees. Ifyou are making a smaller or larger shelter, or prefer a different profile with reference to itsheight, use the good old Pythagorean theorem to recalculate the length of your rafters (thehypotenuse of a right triangle) and the angles at which to cut the ends of your rafters.

(2) For fastening Grandrib 3 onto roof framing, Fabral offers a hex-head painted screw completewith neoprene washer. Since I had some left over from a larger roofing project, that is what I
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used. They are quite expensive, howeverup to 16 cents per screw. You could use deckingscrews for this part of the job as well, adding small neoprene washers to seal the screw holesfrom the rain.

(3) For the framing, I bought all 2x4s and ripped them down as needed. You could of course

buy lumber already cut to your needed dimensions (2x2, 1x2, etc.) if you prefer.

(4)Do not use nails for a pasture shelterthey will work loose as the shelter is jerked about inmoving. A coarse-thread deck screw, galvanized or coated against weather, will provide muchmore durable framing joints, and will not require the drilling of pilot holes (except at the ends ofpieces to be joined). I keep a supply of a wide variety of lengths and shank sizes on hand at alltimes. For this project, I used, as appropriate to the join being made, all of the following: #7, 1and 1-5/8 inches;#8, 1-, 2, 2-, and 3 inches; #10, 3- inches.

(5) I had a number of 3-x-inch steel corner braces (corner irons) on hand, so I used two oneach corner. If you can get larger corner braces, you should need only one per corner.

(6) If you have some scrap wood on hand, use it to assemble a nest box. If you do not, you mightfind it easiest to make one from plywood. If you buy a sheet of plywood, you should have atleast half the sheet left over after making your nest box.

(7) I always use -inch hardware cloth (welded wire mesh) for nest bottoms that are more self-cleaning than solid bottoms, so I had on hand the small piece required to floor the nest box in

this shelter. If you cant find a source that will custom cut to your length, you will probably haveto buy a 10-ft roll and keep the remainder on hand for other projects.

(8) The size wheel you want to use on your shelter is up to you. For most pasture shelters, you

want a solid (non-pneumatic) wheel, available from a garden or tractor supply. See discussion ofwheel size above.

(9) The sealer I used was Cabot Waterproofing, a clear silicone sealer for wood. I didnt coat theinterior parts of the frame that will be completely sheltered from blowing rain. I applied severalliberal applications, however, to the bottom rails and end framing, and the end grain of stringersand rafters. I used about two quarts of sealer.

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Cutting
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Ripping

(1) Set rip fence of table saw or hand-held power saw to 1- inches, and rip all four of the 12-ft2x4s in half. Cut each of the resulting pieces in half cross-wisethat is, into 6-ft lengths.Reserve 14 of these pieces for the rafters of the shelter, and set aside the other two for other uses.

(2) Cut 12 inches off four of the 10-ft 2x4s, to yield four 9-ft 2x4s. Set aside two of these 2x4sto use for the side rails. With rip fence still set at 1- inches, rip the other two 9-ft 2x4s in half.Set aside the resulting four 9-ft pieces, for use as stringers.

(3) With the rip fence still set to 1-, rip one more 10-ft 2x4 in half and set aside for use as collarties and end framing.

(4) Re-set the rip fence to 2- inches and rip the last 10-ft 2x4. Set aside the 1--in thick piecefor later use. Cut the 2--in piece to 9 ft, for use as the ridge pole.

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Framing

Corner Alignment

(5) Assemble the bottom rails. [Please note that inDesigning a Pasture Shelter, I said that it ispossible to cut down on weight by ripping the bottom rails at 2- inches, which normally isplenty heavy for a shelter with adequate cross bracing. In the present case, however, I wasadding a lot of weight because of the choice of the metal roofing as cover. Therefore, I used full2x4s for the bottom rails.] Lay out the bottom frame, with the two 9-ft 2x4s previously cut(Step 2) to the outside, and two of the 8-ft 2x4s to the inside. Study the photo of this stepcarefully and make sure that the 9-ft rails set the length of the bottom frame at exactly 9 feet;while the 8-ft 2x4s, set on the inside of the outer rails, make for a width that is 8 ft, 3 inches (8 ftplus the thickness of one nominal 2x4 times two). We doubled up on our smaller corner braces,

and used #10x3--inch screws for drilling into end grain, and #7x1-5/8 screws when screwinginto cross grain. (#8x1-5/8 would have been even better.) Note that as we begin assembling theframe, we want to be as square as we possibly can. If you have a large enough completely flatsurface (such as a garage floor) to work on, that is the best choice. That was not an option for us,so I simply used the most level section of lawn I have (well, the most level that remained in theshade most of the time). For squaring up the corners, I laid each of the corners in turn on a sheetof plywood when joining them with the corner braces. Square your corners as well as you can
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(measure on the diagonal from opposite cornersthe two measurements should be the same ifthe frame is square) before the next steps, which will be locking in the structure.

(6) Cut 45-degree angles on both ends of the 14 rafters. Be careful with this step: You want toend with rafters that still measure a full 6 ft on the top edge, with the angles coming in from the

ends. Be sure youre clear on this point by studying the photos of the attachment of rafters toridge pole and bottom rails. When driving screws into the ends of the rafters (or near the ends ofother pieces elsewhere in the construction), I first drill a pilot hole to prevent splitting the end.(When driving deck screws into the middle of the work piece, no pilot hole is necessary.)

Begin Rafters

Rafters Complete

(7) I hope you have a buddy willing to help set the first two pairs of raftersdoing that single-handedly would be more challenging than juggling five balls while walking a tightrope. Screwthe ends of all the rafter pieces solidly onto the ridge pole and the side rails, setting the rafters at18 inches on center. [Note: Be aware that some roofing materials might require a differentspacing of the rafters.]

First Stringers

(8) Attach two of the 9-ft stringers cut in Step 2 to connect the rear and the front rails. I came in32 inches from the right and left ends of the front and rear rails to set the stringers. You couldvary that distance, depending on the size door (and access to the nest box in the rear) you prefer.
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Diagonal Braces

(9) Re-set rip fence to -inch. Rip the two remaining 8-ft 2x4s to give eight pieces x1-inches. (No, theyre not all precisely inch thick, but we dont want to go crazy figuring thekerf here.) Set aside four of these pieces for later use. Check a final time that the bottom frame issquare. Trim the remaining four pieces to make diagonal cross braces, from each lower cornerup to the top in the middle of the structure, attaching to the undersides of the rafters whereverthey cross. Though fairly lightweight, these cross braces add tremendously to structural rigidity.

End Framing

(10) Using the 1-x1--inch stock cut in Steps 1 and 3, cut pieces to frame for a door and accessto the nest box on the ends. (Study the photos for the general layout. Youll have to do a bit of

trial-and-error to establish the correct angles.)

Collar Ties

(11) Using the same 1-x1--inch stock, cut five additonal pieces to use as collar ties, whichjoin opposite pairs of rafters. The collar ties add to structural integrity, but they can serve doubleduty as roosts for your birds. Exactly where you set them is up to you: The lower you set them,the longer they are and the more useful as roosts; the higher, the easier it is to get around insidethe structure when you need to do so. A good compromise for us (based also on best use of thepre-cut stock used in this step) was to make the collar ties 29 inches long (measured across thebottom side), which set the top 13- inches from the ridge pole.


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Additional Stringers

(12) To complete the framing, we installed an additional two stringers (16 inches up from thefirst pair) connecting the uprights in the framing at the two ends (using the remaining two 9-ftpieces cut in Step 2). These two stringers are not essential structurally, but we wanted them toprovide a comfortable amount of roosting space for the birds. Remember the 1-x1- stock cutin Step 4? We cut pieces from that to make two center supports for the pairs of stringers on eachside. (See photo.)

Completed Frame

(13) At this point we have a frame that is rock solid. Im going to leave it to you to design yourown nest box and end door if you want them. (I rarely use a door, since I use electronet to protectthe flock, but always want the option of shutting in the birdsfor a census or selection or

whatever.) For these two projects I used the 3/-4 inch stock generated in Step 9 and theremaining 1--inch stock from Step 4, plus (for the nest and its hinged access door) some scrap-inch CDX plywood. I used some -inch hardware cloth on hand for the bottom of the nestbox. I used more scrap plywood to give additional protection to the ends of the nest box fromblowing rain. (See photo.)

Nestbox Floor


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Nestbox Access

(14) While all parts of the frame are still accessible, coat all surfaces that could possibly bereached by blowing rain with a good wood sealer. Dont forget the bottoms of structural pieces

with a structure this rigid, there is no problem flipping it on its side to get to any surface needingapplication.

(15) Cut the 1-inch mesh poultry wire for the (mostly triangular) spaces to be sealed off in thefront and rear. Staple into place. Staple some over the door frame as well. (Youll see in the

photo that I used a convenient piece of -inch hardware cloth instead.)

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Roofing

Roofing

Nestbox Door

(16) We attached the metal roofing, using four screws per rafter. The Grandrib 3 we were usingis designed to be laid down over horizontal roof purlins, but the addition of purlins is not neededin this simple structure. Therefore, we simply attached the screws into the rafters themselves,occasionally doing so through a ridge in the Grandrib 3 (not recommended when installing on ahouse roof, for example), but mostly through a flat section of the profile as recommended. Wethen attached a ridge vent over the top to protect the interior from rain. If you are using the 24-
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mil woven poly to cover your shelter, you can order a plastic lath called cinchstrap for nailing

down the poly.

Top of page

Wheels

Axle Bolt

Wheel

(17) Drill -inch holes into the side rails, front and rear. I drilled mine with the center ten inchesin from the end, and one inch up from the bottom. Insert the -inch carriage bolts through the

holes, from the inside of the rails. Place a flat washer, then a lock washer, then a hexagonal nuton the bolt, and tighten until the square shoulders of the carriage bolts are firmly engaged in

the wood. Now simply pop the wheels on the bolts and lock them down with wing nuts. (Ifinstalling permanently, use more hexagonal nuts. The wingnuts make it convenient to put thewheels on and off with ease.)

(18) Drill pilot holes and then screw in the four open hooks into the front and back rails. Make apull using a length of wire cable, twisted into a strong loop at each end, and a scrap of old gardenhose as padding for your hand. Loop the ends into the hooks and pull to move the shelter. Nowyoure rolling!
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Taking the new Chicken Ferrari for a spin

Poultry Predators - Protect Your Chickens

From Predators

ByLauren Ware, Photo Flickr user brad.schram

There's nothing worse than having your chickens or other poultry attacked by a predator - and itseems that nearly every wild creature, and many domestic ones, can appreciate a delicious
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chicken dinner. So, how do you protect your flock so you don't have to worry about losing hensto raccoons, dogs, weasels, hawks, and more?

Potential Poultry Predators

If you're new to raising chickens, you might not even be aware of just what predators are around.Or you may think that since you live in the surburbs or within city limits, you don't have toworry about predators. But domestic animals can be chicken killers, too.

So, who are you worried about? Here are the most common chicken predators:

neighborhood dogs

chicken hawks

weasels/ermine/minks

foxes

raccoons

coyotesferal and domestic cats

bobcats

owls

snakes (chicks)

rats

fisher cats

Some predators, like snakes and rats, are only likely to eat baby chicks or half-grown pullets, notfull-grown birds. Others, such as skunks, will just eat chicken eggs, leaving the hens alone.

Coop Security

There are some simple steps you can take to protect your precious hens from predation. The firstorder of business is to have a secure coop with a door that shuts securely at night. Some othertips:

Dig a trench 12 inches deep around the entire coop and bury hardware cloth there. This will

prevent digging predators.

Elevate the coop off the ground to help prevent mice, rats and weasels from getting into the

coop.

Inspect the bottom of the coop and patch any holes where predators could gain entry.

Put lights around the coop at night; motion-sensor lights work well.

Keep your compost pile far away from the coop and don't allow food scraps to linger - clean up

any food scraps that the chickens don't eat before nightfall.


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Keep the area around the coop mowed and clear - an open field without cover is a deterrent topredators.

If you have serious problems with hawks and owls, consider covering the chicken run with hawk

netting.

Electric Fencing

Electric fencing can be a good option for securing poultry. There are several ways to go aboutthis: one is to have a static coop and run with electric wire run around the bottom of the coop andrun so that digging predators can't get in.

Another option is to useelectric net fencingto protect your chickens. Predators are stopped, rightdown to the ground, and themanagement systemof moving your chickens to fresh pasture seemsto be an additional effective deterrent.

Poultry Protectors

There are other ways to protect poultry and some of them will work for any animal on the farm.Dogs are great protectors of the small farm or homestead, and will keep everything from sheep tocattle to baby chicks safe from marauding predators - usually including other dogs.

Still, there's a catch: some dogs just love to chase and tease chickens. They will often kill themwithout even realizing or intending it. If you get a livestock guardian puppy, be sure to superviseits interactions with your chickens when it is young, and deliver a correction any time it giveschase to your feathered farm animals.

If you're not up for getting a dog, guinea fowl are also great guardians of the flock. They willchase off everything from the mailman to coyotes - but beware, their protection comes with anoisy price. Guineas are not quiet animals, and you can't just train them to pipe down like youcan with (some) dogs. Still, they have an added benefit: they'll eat every bug you can imaginethat might plague the garden and barnyard, from ticks to flies.

A Good Offense

The final layer of predator protection is having a gun. I'm not about to get into the politics of gunownership, but I will admit that growing up as a city girl, I never imagined agreeing to have agun on the property. Now, I see the benefits of having a gun and knowing how to use it.

In fact, a couple of winters ago, we were awoken at two in the morning by a commotion in thehenhouse. My husband pulled on some clothes, grabbed the shotgun, and ran outside. A weaselhad eaten the faces off several of our girls! He took aim and missed, but the weasel ran aroundthe coop and came back to peer at him from another direction. It was then that he landed a final,fatal blow. Had he not gotten the weasel, it would have undoubtedly come back night after nightto feast on our fatted hens. Not a calming thought.
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Guns can serve a serious purpose on the homestead and small farm. Just be sure you've givenequally serious consideration to safety and obey all laws. Traps are another potential "offensive"move against predators to consider - be sure to research the safest kind for the animal you needto catch, and use them judiciously only when all other measures have failed.

Though it may seem overwhelming, you'll rest easy knowing you've taken all the steps you canto secure your investment in your chickens and poultry by warding off potential predators.

How to Choose a Chicken Coop

Everything You Need to Know to Give Your Chickens a Great Chicken Coop

ByLauren Ware, About.com Guide

A silver-laced Wyandotte hen enters her chicken coop.

Photo Lauren Ware

Your chicks are on order and thebrooder tubis all set up and ready for them. Now you just need

a place to put them when they're ready to move outdoors. You need a chicken coop, a henhouse,a chicken tractor -- but which one? And how big should it be? Can you convert an old shed to achicken coop?

Decide on Management Method

The type of coop you choose depends on whether the chickens will live full-time in it, haveaccess to an outside run or larger portions ofpasture, or whether it will be amovable coopthatcan be relocated frequently for fresh ground.

Decide on Square Footage

You will then need to determine the amount of space you need for the number of chickens youhave. One especially important consideration is how many chickens you plan to keep on anongoing basis. You might want to build on the large side, allowing for new baby chicks eitherbred or bought, or for future flock expansion.

If your birds will have access to an outdoor run, you'll want to allow for a minimum of 2-3square feet per bird inside the coop, and aim for about 4 square feet per bird in the run. The
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higher you can go, the better, though. If your birds will be cooped all winter (chickens don't liketo go out onto snowy surfaces), allow for 5-10 square feet per chicken. For birds that will becompletely confined in a chicken tractor without an outdoor pen, give a minimum of 5 squarefeet per bird. These are just general guidelines. The bigger the chicken, the more space it needs -so meat birds in general require more space than laying hens, and full-grown pullets need more

space than baby chicks. Most annoying chicken problems like pecking and aggressiveness can becured with more space, so plan for as generously-sized a coop as you can fit or afford.

Consider Which Features You Need

Chicken coops vary from a very simple floorless wooden box with chicken wire surrounding itand a piece of roofing on it, to some digs that are more spacious than some human habitats!There are so many options, and it can seem daunting to choose a design.

If you are an urban or suburban homesteader, you may need to consider aesthetics and securityof the flock (from escaping into neighbors' gardens) more highly than those in a rural setting.

There are many plans for chicken coops that look attractive. Sometimes they have a whimsicaldesign aesthetic.

If you have laying hens, they will need one nest box or one square foot of community nestingspace per 4-5 hens. Most laying chickens like to roost. A good rule of thumb is 6-10 inches ofroosting space per bird. Roosts should be at least 2 feet off the ground, as should nest boxes.Nest boxes should be about 1 foot square, or "community" nests should have at least one 9 by 12inch opening every 20 square feet of nest space.

Roosts can be as simple as a ladder fastened to the wall at an angle, or twigs attached to the wallsof the coop. Milk crates or plastic tubs lined with shavings or straw make fine nest boxes; just

attach them to a shelf or to the wall directly.

Coops and tractors must have ventilation, so that gases from birds' respiration and poop don'tbuild up inside. Chickens love shade, so a coop and run should include shady spots. Areas wherehens can dust bathe is a nice addition. This can be as simple as a box filled with dirt or sand ifthere isn't a spot on the floor of the coop. Hens with access to outdoors will find places for theirdust baths. In winter, my hens just pick a clean spot somewhere in the coop, usually a corner.

Decide Whether to Reuse, Build or Buy

Do you have a doghouse or shed that can be repurposed into a coop? Don't build a new structure

if you don't have to. If you're not a builder, you can search craigslist or other classifieds forpotential coop buildings small enough to be moved to your property. A new coat of paint, someventilation put in (cut holes and cover with chicken wire or install windows), and some nestboxes and roosts inside, and you're in business. One thing to consider is the floor system - awood floor can rot if you use the deep litter method, so expect more frequent cleanouts. Abuilding without a floor can be put on the earth for the deep litter method, or on a concrete slab.


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If you can't find an already-built structure to reuse, consider whether you want to build the coopyourself or buy one premade. For urban homesteaders and hobby farmers with small flocks andaesthetic considerations, buying a premade coop might make sense. For small farmers with a fewdozen hens, building a coop is probably a better economic choice.

Find Plans and Ideas

You now know: what size coop you need, what basic type of coop or tractor you need, whetheryou need roosts and/or nest boxes, and whether you're renovating, building or buying yourchicken coop. Here are some resources to look at for inspiration, plans, and premade coops.

Raising Chickens and Planning for Them

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