Raggedy Ruff Designs Raggedy Ruff Designs - · PDF file©Raggedy Ruff Designs Pattern is...

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©Raggedy Ruff Designs Pattern is for personal use only. 18 Medina Close, Derby DE24 0UD England. www.raggedyruffdesigns.com email:[email protected] 1 Sweet peas Finished size 8.5” by 8.5” (or 12.5” by 12.5”) Raggedy Ruff Designs

Transcript of Raggedy Ruff Designs Raggedy Ruff Designs - · PDF file©Raggedy Ruff Designs Pattern is...

©Raggedy Ruff Designs Pattern is for personal use only. 18 Medina Close, Derby DE24 0UD England. www.raggedyruffdesigns.com email:[email protected]

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Raggedy Ruff Designs

Sweet peas

Finished size 8.5” by 8.5” (or 12.5” by 12.5”)

Raggedy Ruff Designs

©Raggedy Ruff Designs Pattern is for personal use only. 18 Medina Close, Derby DE24 0UD England. www.raggedyruffdesigns.com email:[email protected]

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You will need: Background fabric: Given in background section.

Wadding: 10 by 10” for the smaller size, and 14 by 14” for the larger size. I like to use Hobbs Premium

heirloom which is a poly cotton blend and easy to hand quilt as well as machine quilt.

Backing fabric: 10 by 10” for the smaller size and 14 by 14” for the larger size, minimum. I used a

Moda Bella Natural.

Stabiliser: 8 by 8” for the smaller size, and 12” by 12” for the larger size. There are lots of types of

stabilisers. For this project, I used a medium weight cut away stabiliser and just left it in when I had

finished. When I am hand quilting, I use a papery tear away one. It isn’t as nice as the cut away one

but you can get it out easily and then quilting is much better. I don’t like the soluble ones as I find they

stick a bit on the machine and don’t move as easily but that is a personal choice.

Thread: I used the following threads by Wonderfil:

Colour I used Purpose Alternatives

Soft lime green (V) Tutti 50wt cotton TU29

Cow parsley stems TU30

Off white (V) Tutti 50wt cotton TU41

Daisy petals and cow’s parsley

Designer polyester DS115

Dark Moss green Designer Polyester DS846

Daisy stem Designer DS848

Light turquoise/grey (V)

Fabulux polyester FB40

Shading on the cow’s parsley

DS242

Moss green (V) Tutti TU32 Sweet pea stems DS847

Warm dark purple (V) Tutti TU18 Sweet peas Rayon R5112

Light warm purple (V) Tutti TU17 Sweet peas Rayon 5105

Dark taupe Designer DS891 The underneath of the cow’s parsley and stems

Saddle brown Designer DS893 Outlining most parts Konfetti KT804

Fuchsia (V) TU16 Pink sweet peas

Pale blue (V) TU21 Forget-me-nots Rayon R225

Pale yellow TU03 Daisy centre DS144

You don’t need to use these colours, just have a look through your thread box and see what you have.

If you switch between types of thread like I do, then you may need to keep adjusting your tension as

you sew. Some of the quilting threads I use are quite thick and I must turn my tension wheel to half of

what I normally do so that I don’t get the bottom thread coming up. Tension problems show up a lot

more when you free motion than normal sewing, so if you get loops on the bottom either your upper

tension is probably too loose or it isn’t threaded correctly. I recommend using pre-wound bobbins.

Wonderfil do some lovely ones called Decobob pre-wounds and they take a lot of the stress about

tension from your project and don’t really cost very much more than winding your own.

Applique Fabric: You can use any fabric you like but I would heartily recommend batiks for raw edge

applique. The thread count is higher so they stay together while you are sewing and don’t fray nearly

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as quickly. I like to use hand dyed batiks with no printed pattern. They give a lovely water colour effect.

I use the Kota batiks by Moda, Timeless treasure tonga blenders, Hoffman water colours and Sew

Simple Batiks. For this embroidery, I used:

Code Item Colour Size for 8” Size for 12”

A1 Kota Vanilla Daisy Light cream 3.5” by 2” 6 by 3”

A2 Kota baby lilac Sweet peas Light warm purple

2 by 2” 3 by 3”

A3 Kota jungle lavender Sweet peas Lilac 2 by 2” 3 by 3”

A4 SSB030 Sweet peas Mid pink 2 by 2” 3 by 3”

A5 Kota dark pink Sweet peas Dark pink 2.5 b 2.5” 4 by 4”

A6 SSB100 Sweet peas Lavender 2.5 b 2.5” 4 by 4”

A7 SSB094 Sweet peas Dark purple 2 by 2” 3 by 3”

A8 SSB090 Sweet peas Warm bright purple

1 by 1” 1.5 by 1.5”

Freezer paper: Freezer paper is ideal to trace the pattern pieces and then you can iron them (warm

iron) onto your fabric and then cut them out and carefully peel away the paper.

Bottom bobbin threads: Just a note here to say that I am lazy so I only ever use either a dark

brown/grey/cream thread on my bottom bobbin. I adjust my tension to make sure I don’t get any

noticeable thread colour coming up from underneath. I recommend using pre-wound bobbins.

Wonderfil do some lovely ones called Decobob pre-wounds and they take a lot of the stress about

tension from your project and don’t really cost very much more than winding your own.

Free motion foot and ability to either drop or cover up your feed dogs: Everyone’s machine

is different and I’m not going to try and explain all the different types of free motion sewing foot. But

you are going to need one. And to know how to use it! This one is mine. I have a Pfaff Creative 2056

(which is getting on a bit.) I used to have the proper free motion foot for it but I broke it so I am back

to the darning foot the machine came with, but to be honest it works just as well so I haven’t bothered

changing it.

At the back of the instructions there are the outline drawings. If you wish to construct the embroidery

using needle turn applique you will need to add seam allowances on as they are not included. I am

not going to give the instructions for needle turn applique but if you follow the same order as for the

raw edge applique and remember to add on your seam allowance you should be fine, and you could

embroider the extra details or smaller pieces by hand.

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Background instructions for 8” panel Below are the fabric requirements for the 8” patchwork background. The placement for each piece

are indicated in the chart by the reference number. All the patchwork seams are constructed using a

¼ inch seam. I would highly recommend labelling with G1 etc which you have cut out your pieces so

you don’t get muddled!

Code Description Pieces to cut Fabric size supplied

G1 Bella Mint Mint green plain 5.5” by 5.5” 6 by 6”

G2 Amelia green Bright light green plain 5.5” by 2.5” time 2 6 by 6”

G3 S&S Aqua Dark green pattern batik 5.5” by 1.5” times 2 6 by 4”

G4 SSB066 Dark teal batik 1.5” By 1.5” 2 by 2”

G5 Hoffmann Parakeet Dark teal pattern batik 1.5” By 2.5” times 2 3 by 4”

G6 SSB075 Light turquoise batik 2.5 by 2.5” 3 by 3”

Background instructions for 12” panel Below are the fabric requirements for the 12” patchwork background. The placement for each piece

are indicated in the chart by the reference number. All the patchwork seams are constructed using a

¼ inch seam. I would highly recommend labelling with G1 etc which you have cut out your pieces so

you don’t get muddled!

Code Description Pieces to cut Fabric size supplied

G1 Bella Mint Mint green plain 8” by 8” 9 by 9”

G2 Amelia green Bright light green plain 8” by 3.5” time 2 9 by 8”

G3 S&S Aqua Dark green pattern batik 8” by 2” times 2 9 by 5”

G4 SSB066 Dark teal batik 2” By 2” 2.5 by 2.5”

G5 Hoffmann Parakeet Dark teal pattern batik 2” By 3.5” times 2 5 by 4”

G6 SSB075 Light turquoise batik 3.5 by 3.5” 4 by 4”

Piecing Instructions

G1 G2 G3

G3 G4 G5

G5 G6

G2

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This is the pattern layout. I like to use grids and really you can construct this in any way you like but I

have put instructions on the next pages to show an order with pressing directions as well. Both the

larger and smaller panels have the same layout, although the size of your blocks will vary.

1. Stitch G1, G2 and G3 together. Press seams to the right (G2 seam into G1 fabric)

2. Stitch G3, G4 and G5 together. Press seams the opposite way as in step 1 (G3 seam on to G4)

3. Stitch G2, G5and G6 together, pressing G5 seam onto G2 etc.

4. Nesting seams, stitch the top two rows together. Press the seams upwards.

5. Stitch the bottom row, pressing the seam downwards

G1 G2 G3

G3 G4 G5

G5 G6

G2

G1 G2 G3

G3 G4 G5

G1 G2 G3

G3 G4 G5

G5 G6

G2

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Embroidery Instructions At the back of the instructions there are the outline drawings. If you wish to construct the embroidery

using needle turn applique you will need to add seam allowances on as they are not included. I am

not going to give the instructions for needle turn applique but if you follow the same order as for the

raw edge applique and remember to add on your seam allowance you should be fine, and you could

embroider the extra details or smaller pieces by hand.

Video links (In addition to the written instructions I also have videos on my YouTube channel. Please go to

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCp1RjC_f3WiZiZWhyxzCZxw or search for Raggedy Ruff Designs

on YouTube. There isn’t a specific one for this pattern but the other tutorials might be helpful.)

Basic cutting out guidelines To use freezer paper, you do the following:

• Trace your design with a pencil on to the matt side of your freezer paper.

• Cut out your shape with paper scissors (or if you are naughty like me you can just roughly cut

out the shape with your fabric scissors and trim it down properly when you cut your fabric.

This isn’t great for the life of your scissors but it does improve your cutting accuracy.)

• With a warm iron, press your shape onto the right-hand side of your fabric. You can fussy cut

if you want but make sure that you have all the shapes fitting onto your fabric before you cut,

you don’t want to find that you only have enough fabric left for half a mouse!

• Cut the shape and peel off the freezer paper.

I like to build up my designs through layers where possible to reduce the amount of raw edge seams

cutting across a shape and make positioning easier. So, trace out all the design lines unless they are

clearly embroidery only (like the eyes or the mice paws, bird’s legs etc.). I try to show embroidery lines

with a thinner pen line, and fabric changes with a thicker pen line. When you peel off the freezer

paper, you can then trim down the shape to the next layer of fabric and reuse it.

If you are using a fabric kit to make this panel, please remember that some of the applique fabric

pieces will be used in different parts of the embroidery. It would be a good idea to trace out of the

designs and cut out all the pieces for one applique fabric colour at a time so that you ensure you

position the pieces optimally or you may not have sufficient fabric later.

Adhesives I don’t use any adhesives on my appliques. I don’t like the feel of them and I like the freedom to keep

arranging my pieces as I go along. You can pin your pieces down if you like or use adhesive but I won’t

be mentioning them in the patterns as it isn’t how I work. To stop the pieces from puckering, I keep

smoothing the applique fabric pieces away from the machine needle with my fingers. It is one of the

reasons I like to layer my fabric so if anything does shift a little bit, you don’t end up with a gap between

sections.

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Cutting out

1. Trace around all the pieces. Mark all the changes in fabric colour but don’t worry about

embroidery lines.

2. Cut the daisy from the off white.

3. Cut the buds from the bright purple, and the baby lilac (lightest purple.)

4. For the open flowers, Cut the whole flower shape from your first darker shade. Then peel

away your freezer paper.

5. Trim the template down to

show the upper most petals and

choose a lighter shape. For the

flower face on you will need to

repeat this a third time.

I know this seems a little

wasteful of fabric as we are

making multiple layers but it is a

lot easier than trying to jigsaw

the pieces of fabric back

together again. And if a piece

shifts a bit when you are sewing,

it won’t matter.

Put your pieces to one side for

now and we are going to stitch

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in the cow’s parsley. Put your stabiliser underneath. Thread your machine with a soft lime green

thread. Take a deep breath and with all the free motion settings engaged correctly on your machine,

position your needle at the base of one of the flower heads. A few stitches on top of each other fastens

your end for you. Each time you get to the end and want to cut off your thread remember to do a few

stitches to lock the thread so it doesn’t undo. With free motion sewing there is no need to stop and

turn around, you can sew in all directions. After a few stitches, I find it helpful to cut off the upper

thread end so I don’t keep sewing over it. For this kind of stitching I find it helpful to turn your top

tension down a little. It doesn’t need much. Sew slowly and move the fabric smoothly so you get

approximately 2mm long stitches. The stems are straight and you can broaden them by going up and

doing a few times, being careful not to pull too quickly so that your fabric gets puckered. There are

little leaves at the base of the flower heads. Stitch the flower stems with a gentle curve. At the top

move to the next stem and come back down so you keep those stems nice and thin and delicate.

Change over to an off-white

thread (TU41) and stitch in

the flowers. These are

basically just scribbly stars.

Don’t worry about getting

them exact, you are after

creating a flowery

impression, not neat little

flowers. Add some above the

others to create a nice

domed shape to the flower

heads. Change to a taupe

thread (DS891) and create a

shadow by stitching a few

shapes under the white

flowers and stitch down

some of the stems as well.

You don’t want to do every one but just every other will be fine to give it some depth. Lastly change

to a light grey/turquoise and do a little

blending with a few more star/flower

shapes between the white and taupe.

With those done, grab your applique

pieces and arrange them on your fabric.

Change to a mid-brown (DS893) and

positioning the needle approximately

1mm from the edge, stitch around the

inside edge of all the fabric pieces. Go all

the way around all the applique pieces,

securing all the edges of all the fabric

pieces. If you miss a bit don’t go back

over what you have done, just get back

into position as quickly as you can and

keep going. If you feel a bit panicky then

you can always just sew up and down on

the same spot a bit or stop for a second!

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Don’t worry about any of the details at this stage. We just want to get all the pieces sew0 n down so

they don’t go astray! Once you have gone around all the shapes, go around them again, making sure

you catch down any edges that you missed the first time. When you reach the petal divides you can

add them in.

Next change over to a moss green

(TU32) and add in all the sweet pea

stems, loosely following the template

design. Enjoy those curly tendrils!

With a darker green (DS846) stitch in

the daisy stem.

With a pale yellow, you can fill in the

daisy centre. (TU03) and use white

(TU41) to stitch around the edges of

the daisy petals.

For the sweet peas, use the lighter purple

(TU17) to stitch around the edges of the

flowers on the lighter fabric colours. Use a pink

on the pink flower (TU16) and use the darker

purple (TU18) to create the shadows in the

folds and tucks.

The forget-me-not stems are stitched in green

and the flowers then added with TU21 light

blue. Forget me nots have a simple 5 petal

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shape with a little circle in

the middle. Don’t worry too

much about them, they are

just to add some extra

shades and make it look nice

and delicate.

Your panel is finished.

Depending on what you

want to do with it, you can

turn it into a mini wall

hanging and quilt it, or a

cushion cover would be

lovely. Neaten up any loose

ends on the back, but I

generally leave as many of

the back threads uncut

where possible so that it

helps everything stay in

place on the front.

The templates are included in the following pages. The larger template will need to be cut out and

overlapped and stuck together to make the full templates. Have fun!

©Raggedy Ruff Designs Pattern is for personal use only. 18 Medina Close, Derby DE24 0UD England. www.raggedyruffdesigns.com email:[email protected]

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©Raggedy Ruff Designs Pattern is for personal use only. 18 Medina Close, Derby DE24 0UD England. www.raggedyruffdesigns.com email:[email protected]

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©Raggedy Ruff Designs Pattern is for personal use only. 18 Medina Close, Derby DE24 0UD England. www.raggedyruffdesigns.com email:[email protected]

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