Quince ‘Cheese’

This thick, tangy jelly (similar to Spanish membrillo) is ideal with strong cheese such as goat’s cheese and also tastes good with cold meats. It’s not quick to make, but it’s therapeutic! If you can’t get wild quinces from the countryside, you can use crab apples or other apples instead.

YOU WILL NEED:

quinces (quantity is up to you – once cooked, you measure the same amount of sugar)sugarlemon juiceoptional extra flavourings: 1 vanilla pod (split) plus 2 strips of lemon peel (without any white pith)

saucepan (ideally largish & wide, with a heavy base)spatterguard (or foil with holes) – optional (helps reduce mess & hot splashes)bowl fine sieve, preferably nylon or plasticlarge shallow ovenproof dish or dishes (8 x8 inches for about 2lb fruit)baking parchment (some for cooking, some to cover for keeping)foil (for wrapping during storage)

several hours that you can keep free to stay close to the stove; it’s more relaxed if you can spread the process over two days

INSTRUCTIONS

1) Preparation: wash, scrub and check over the fruit. Throw away any that are diseased and cut out small blemishes or bruised areas. You do not need to stem, core or peel.

2) Put the fruit in the saucepan and add just enough water to cover. Add the split vanilla pod & pieces of lemon peel (optional). Simmer gently on a low heat, covered, till it is soft and pulpy . This usually takes half an hour or a little longer.

Optional: leave the pan overnight or for a few hours at this point with the lid off – it can help bring out the dark red colour which comes with oxidation.

3) Sieve the fruit through the nylon or plastic sieve into a bowl, pressing it through the mesh with the back of a spoon.

4) Weigh the pulp and place in a clean saucepan. Weigh out the same amount of sugar as pulp (or a little bit less, to taste).

5) If the pulp is runny, boil it rapidly with the lid off until it becomes thicker. If already thick, bring gently to the boil.

5) Remove from the heat, and add the sugar, stirring until the sugar has completely dissolved. Add about 1 teaspoon of lemon juice for each 250g/8oz or so of pulp.

6) Return to the heat then simmer gently on a very low heat for 1 to 2 hours, keeping the pan uncovered (with optional spatterguard). You need to stir regularly to prevent sticking and burning, and stir constantly towards the end of cooking. The colour gradually becomes darker and thicker, till it becomes a paste that sticks together in one mass.

7) Line the ovenproof dish with baking parchment & tip in the paste. Put it into the oven on the lowest heat with the door ajar for about an hour. Then close the door, turn off the oven and leave to finish drying overnight.

8) Store in the fridge. Cut slices as needed. (Usually finished long before it goes off!)