QU-BD OneUp and TwoUp Assembly Instructions

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OneUp AND TwoUp PRINTER ASSEMBLYINSTRUCTIONS

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Quintessential Universal Building Device4200 Hoerner Rd

Little Rock, AR 72209-2416

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Quintessential Universal Building DevicesOneUp AND TwoUp PRINTER ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

Revision B - 3/28/2014

NOTE: FAN SHOWN FOR INTENT ONLY

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QU-BD One Up Specs : Minimum Layer Height: 50 Microns (Lower is Better) Frame Material: Black Melamine MDF Max Travel: Approximately 100x100x125mm Maximum Travel Speed: 150mm/s Maximum Print Speed: 100mm/s Bed Material: Acrylic (or Basalt with Heated Bed Upgrade) Heated Bed: No, electronics support it so it can be added later Linear Motion Type: X/Y Belts and Linear Bearings | Z Precision ACME Screws / Linear Bearings X-Motor: NEMA 17 Motors w/ Up To 16x Microstepping Y-Motor: NEMA 17 Motors w/ Up To 16x Microstepping Z-Motor: NEMA 17 Motors w/ Up To 16x Microstepping Electronics: Printrboard Electronics Firmware: Marlin Extruder: anUBIS w/ PTFE Liner for Reliable Printing Filament: 1.75mm PLA, HIPS, Carbon PLA, Laywoo (or with optionalheated bed upgrade adds support for ABS!)

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QU-BD Two Up Specs : Minimum Layer Height: 50 Microns (Lower is Better) Frame Material: Black Melamine MDF Max Travel: Approximately 175x175x125mm Maximum Travel Speed: 150mm/s Maximum Print Speed: 100mm/s Bed Material: Acrylic (or Basalt with Heated Bed Upgrade) Heated Bed: No, electronics support it so it can be added later Linear Motion Type: X/Y Belts and Linear Bearings | Z Precision ACME Screws / Linear Bearings X-Motor: NEMA 17 Motors w/ Up To 16x Microstepping Y-Motor: NEMA 17 Motors w/ Up To 16x Microstepping Z-Motor: NEMA 17 Motors w/ Up To 16x Microstepping Electronics: Printrboard Electronics Firmware: Marlin Extruder: anUBIS w/ PTFE Liner for Reliable Printing Filament: 1.75mm PLA, HIPS, Carbon PLA, Laywoo (or with optional heated bed upgrade adds support for ABS!)

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SUGGESTED MODIFICATIONS ANDUPGRADES

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SUGGESTED TOOLS:

A - BOTH METRIC AND SAE ALLEN KEY SETS

B - SUPER GLUE

C - ACETONE, VINEGAR OR DISHWASING LIQUID TO DEGREASE OUTSIDE OF SHAFT

BEARINGS

D - ROOM TEMPERATURE VULCANIZER (RTV) OPTIONAL BUT RECOMMENDED FOR TEMP.

PROBE

E - SANDPAPER FOR THE ANY TABS THAT DO NOT QUITE FIT TOGETHER AS INTENDED

F - UTILITY OR EXACTO KNIFE FOR CARVING OUT NOTCHES IF RODS DO NOT FIT

G - LOCTITE (GREEN)

FIRST STEPS BEFORE ASSEMBLY: 1.) ENSURE ALL PARTS ARE PRESENT AND ACCOUNTED FOR. ANY DAMAGED PARTS NEED TO BECALLED OUT IN THE FIRST SUPPORT TICKET FOR CORRECTIONS. 2.) CLEAN ALL LINEAR RODS AND BEARINGS OUT SIDE SURFACES OF OILS AND GREASE.

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SUGGESTED MODIFICATIONS AND UPGRADESSuggested upgrades 1.) Flash the printrboard with the latest firmware. This upgrade/update is recommended only if your fan and sd card aren't working. To flash the printrboard follow the instructions listed here: 2.) The y-axis print bed belt drive assembly on the TwoUp can be upgraded to the 3d printed version made by Macattack. This upgrade is to strengthen the assembly as the current one is fairly fragile. This update also attaches the drive directly to the stepper motor and not the mdf making a much more solid connection. Replaces parts: JJ, KK, LL, & MM. This modification/upgrade can also be done for the OneUp but the files must be altered to remove thickness that partmm would have taken up. 3d files located here: file names needed are: "ydriveupperbody.stl" and "ydrivelowerbody.stl" 3.) Z-axis threaded rod misalignment. If you have a misalignment in the z-axis threaded rod and the lead screw nut (part bb) by about 3mm you can order/request a replacement of part YZTOPPLATE to fix the issue (be sure to specify whether you have a OneUp or a TwoUp). If you cannot order a replacement YZTOPPLATE forthe x-axis gantry due to gluing it down or other means of permanent fastening then printing spacers or attaching a flexible coupling might be required to remove the z-banding (wobble) in your prints. The OneUp spacers are different from the TwoUp spacers so make sure you are choosing the appropriate spacer to fix the issue. OneUp 3d files located here: (thanks to Toybuilder) file names needed are: "one_up_bearing_holder_with_side_capture.stl" (will need 2)

TwoUp 3d files located here: (thanks to Macattack) file names needed are: "two-up_x_gantry_spacer_-_left.stl" and "two-up_x_gantry_spacer_-_right.stl" (1 ea) 4.) End stops - while the software can handle all of the stops and starts having at the least a z-axis end stop can be very beneficial. Even though the software can be told where to make x, y, and z equal to zero, it will still allow the extruder to go past these limits. While not a huge deal for the x and y as the main structure of the printer will keep from having serious damage occur, the z axis has a protruding piece (the hot end) which can damage the build platform and the hot end itself,especially when its at temperature. End stops are relatively cheap depending on where you purchase them through and come in both mechanical and optical versions. The printrboard already supports the x, y, and z end stops so just attaching them correctly is all you need to do.

http://www.fabric8r.com/forums/showthread.php?1308-customizing-marlin-firmware-for-the-one-up-and-two-up

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:212989/#files



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SUGGESTED MODIFICATIONS AND UPGRADES CONT.

5.) Better washers/spacers for around X axis bearing. These can either be printed or purchased through a local hardware store. X-Gantry Pulley Guide washers: 3/8" Fender Washers (Outside Diameter of 1 1/4") or printed : 6.) Printed extruder body. This part will replace most if not all of the mdf in the extruder assembly. This is meant to strengthen this particular part and make it more stable: Additionally this modification can be used in conjunction with the extruder_backing_plate_stockno.stl posted at: 7.) Printed belt clamp. This part attaches to the Back side of the current MDF extruder assembly. It is used to making a non-permanent attachement to the X-Axis belt: 8.) Filament guide clip. Some People have been expeirencing the filament walking off the filament extruder brass feeder nut. This simple part attaches to the top of the Extruder assembly and guides the filament through the feedernut keeping it from walking off: 9.) Settings Suggestion:"A design error in the original QU-BD OneUp exhibited very strong banding in the Z-direction (I originally attributed it to Z-wobble, but realized a few days laterthat it was banding, not wobble). Whosawhatsis (who is now a part of the team at Deezmaker) wrote about this quite some time ago, but I had forgotten about that document until this post onfabric8r reminded me of it. He calls it Z-ribbing, which I think is a far more evocative term. The ACME Z-screw is a 3/8"-12 having 12 turns per inch, that's 1 turn per 1/12", or 1 turn per 2.116(666...) mm. With a 200 step motor, that yields .010583(333...) mm per full step [*]. From the repeating 3's, we know that every 3 steps yields a terminating decimal. Solayer heights should be in multiples of 0.03175 mm to eliminate the rounding errors that leads to this error. So, on the OneUp/TwoUp, the desirable layer thicknesses are: 0.03175, 0.0635, 0.09525, 0.127, 0.15875, 0.1905, 0.22225, 0.254, 0.28575, 0.3175, and 0.34925 mm/layer" - Toybuilder 10.) Replace HW03 on the Gantry Idler Pulley with a longer button head screw and a nut to ensure the Bearing stays perpendicular to the Gantry iteself

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:220008





(http://toybuilderlabs.com/blog/2014/1/19/choosing-the-right-layer-height)

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1.) Extruder base (Part R, basicHEM): http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:212431

2.) Y-Axis Replacement belt clamps (Part M, YMAIN_BELTCLAMP): http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:224414 .

PRINTABLE REPLACMENT PARTS

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OneUp/TwoUp PRINTER PARTS

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OneUp/TwoUp Parts List

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TwoUp

OneUp

PART: AOneUp NAME: MAINPLATE_r5TwoUp NAME: MAINPLATE_2U_r8QTY: 1

PART: BOneUp NAME: LSIDEPLATE_r5TwoUp NAME: LSIDEPLATE_2U_r4QTY: 2

TwoUp

OneUp

PART: COneUp NAME: XMAIN_r7TwoUp NAME: YMAIN_2U_r7QTY: 1

TwoUp

OneUp

PART: DOneUp NAME: BUILDPLATFORM_r2TwoUp NAME: BUILDPLATFORM_2U_r4QTY: 1

TwoUp

OneUp

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TwoUp

OneUp

PART: EOneUp NAME: YZMAIN_r8TwoUp NAME: YZMAIN_2U_r15QTY: 1

PART: FOneUp NAME: YZTOPPLATE_r7TwoUp NAME: YZTOPPLATE_2U_r11QTY: 1

OneUp

TwoUp

OneUp

TwoUpPART: GOneUp NAME: YZREARBRACE_r12TwoUp NAME: YZREARBRACE_2U_r18QTY: 1

PART: SSOneUp NAME: HANDLE_r1TwoUp NAME: HANDLE_2U_r1QTY: 1

OneUp

TwoUp

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PART: HNAME: Y-MOTORMOUNT_r2QTY: 1

PART: INAME: Z-TOPPLATE_r2QTY: 1

PART: JNAME: Y-MOTORMOUNT_NULL_r1QTY: 3

PART: KNAME: Z-TOPPLATE_NULL_r3QTY: 1

Part: LNAME: YEXTRUDERMOUNT_TOP_r4QTY:1

Part: NNAME: YEXTRUDERMOUNT_BELT_r3QTY:1

PART: ONAME: XZSIDEBRACE_r3QTY: 2

Part: MNAME: YMAIN_BELTCLAMP_r1QTY:2

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Part: PNAME: basic01_r3QTY:1

Part: QNAME: basic04_r3QTY:1

Part: RNAME: basicHEM_r3QTY:1

Part: VNAME: basicLEVCAP_r2QTY:1

Part: UNAME: basicLEV_thread_r2QTY:1

Part: TNAME: basicLEV_r1QTY:1

Part: SNAME: basic02_r1QTY:3

Part: WNAME: basicSPACER_r1QTY:1

Part: XNAME: YEXTRUDERMOUNT_r5 - BTMQTY:1

Part: YNAME: YEXTRUDERMOUNT_r5 - TOPQTY:1

HAS SMALLER HOLEFOR THREADING

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PART: AATYPE: NEMA 17 STEPPER MOTORQTY: 4

PART: BBTYPE: 3/8-12 ACME LEAD SCREW NUTQTY: 1

PART: ZTYPE: anUbis HOT ENDQTY: 1

PART: CCTYPE: ZIP TIESQTY: 25

PART: EENAME: 300mm HTD3 TOOTHED BELTQTY: 1

PART: DDTYPE: STRAIGHT TOOTHED BELTQTY: 1

PART: SSTYPE: GLASS BEAD NTC THERMISTORQTY: 1

PART: TTNAME: KAPTON TAPEQTY: 1

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PART: QQP/N:12-HTD3-05 ALUMINUM PULLEYQTY: 2

PART: PPP/N: R6-2RS BALL BEARINGQTY: 3

PART: MMNAME: Y-pt25WOOD_r1TwoUp ONLY QTY: 2

PART: KKNAME: Y-pt03125ACRYLIC_r1QTY: 8

PART:JJNAME: Y-BEARINGSPACER_r3QTY: 2

PART: FFOneUp Size: 8mm X 200 RODTwoUp Size: 8mm X 290 RODQTY: 4

PART: GGSize: 8mm X 290 RODNote: Threaded HolesQTY: 2

PART: HHSize: 3/8"-12 ACME SCREWQTY: 1

PART: NNP/N: LM8LUU LINEAR BEARINGOneUp QTY: 6TwoUp QTY: 7

PART: LLNAME: Y-pt06125ACRYLIC_r2QTY: 2

PART: OOP/N: R1038-2RS BALL BEARINGQTY: 1

PART: RRTYPE: BRASS FEEDER NUTQTY: 1

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PART: HW05SIZE: M3 X 8 SCKT HDQTY: 10

PART: HW02SIZE: 3/8"-16 X 3/4" BUTTON HD BOLTOneUp ONLY QTY: 2


PART: HW10SIZE: M4 X 16 SOCKET HDQTY: 4

PART: HW11SIZE: M4 X 25 SOCKET HDQTY: 4

PART: HW17SIZE: M4 HEX NUTQTY: 4

PART: HW12TYPE: MEDIUM SPRINGQTY: 4

PART: HW19SIZE: M3 X 3 SET SCREWQTY: 1

PART: HW18SIZE: #8-32 X 1/8" SET SCREW

QTY: 4



PART: HW04SIZE: #6-32 X 2 1/2" SCKT HDQTY: 1


PART: HW03SIZE: 3/8"-16 X 1" BUTTON HD BOLTOneUp QTY: 1TwoUp QTY: 3

PART: HW01SIZE: 3/8"-16 X 5/8" BUTTON HD BOLTQTY: 1

PART: HW13TYPE: HEAVY SPRINGQTY: 1

PART: HW16SIZE: #6-32 HEX NUTQTY: 1

PART: HW15SIZE: #6 FLAT WASHERQTY: 1

PART: HW14SIZE: M3 FLAT WASHERQTY: 6

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PART: EL01TYPE: Printrboard Rev DQTY: 1

PART: EL02TYPE: 12V x 40mm FanQTY: 1

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ELECTRONICS CARRIER

PART: SANAME: EBOTTOM_r5QTY: 1

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HEATED BED UPGRADE KIT

TwoUp

OneUp

OneUp

TwoUp

PART: HBUK02OneUp SIZE: 100mm x 100mmTwoUp SIZE: 175mm x 175mmQTY: 1

PART: HBUK01OneUp NAME: BUILDPLATFORM_HEATED_r2TwoUp NAME: BUILDPLATFORM_2U__HEATED_r7QTY: 1

NOTE: Basalt Build Platform comes with the Silicone Heated Pad Attached to the bottom with the Thermistor already attached. The connectors on the Connectors to the Pad and the Thermistor are not attached and will haveto be attached by the user.

PART: HBUK03NAME: 2 Pin Molex ConnectorQTY: 1

PART: HBUK04NAME: 4 Pin Molex ConnectorQTY: 1

PART: HBUK05NAME: Crimp ConnectorsQTY: 2

PART: HBKU06SIZE: M4 X 16 SOCKET HDQTY: 4

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OneUp/TwoUp Extruder AssemblyInstructions

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Extruder Assembly Instructions

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Part: PQTY:1

Part: QQTY:1

Part: RQTY:1

Part: VQTY:1

Part: UQTY:1

Part: TQTY:1

Part: SQTY:3

Part: WQTY:1

Part: XQTY:1

Part: YQTY:1

SMALLER FORTHREADING

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Part: LQTY:1

=KKQTY:2

=HW01QTY:1

SMALL ACRYLICWASHER

3/8"-16 X 5/8"BUTTON HD BOLT

3/8" X 5/8" X 5/32"BALL BEARING

=OOQTY:1

=HW14QTY:6

=HW15QTY:1

=HW16QTY:1

=HW13QTY:1

=HW04QTY:1

=HW08QTY:3

=AAQTY:1

=RRQTY:1

Part: NQTY:1

M3 x 45mmSOCKET HD BOLT

#6-32 x 2 1/2"SOCKET HD BOLT

=HW07QTY:2

M3 x 30mmSOCKET HD BOLT

=ZQTY:1

anUBIS HOT END

=HW19QTY:1

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PART: CCNAME: ZIP TIESQTY: 4

PART: NNNAME: LM8LUU LINEAR BEARINGQTY: 2

PART: EL02NAME: 12x40mm FANQTY: 1

PART: SSNAME: THERMISTORQTY: 1

PART: TTNAME: KAPTON TAPEQTY: 1

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1

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5 6

X

Y

Back Side

HW14 (TWO STACKED)AT ALL THREE BOLTS

HW08

L

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7

ATTACH THE BRASS FEEDER NUT (PART RR) TO THE STEPPER MOTOR. DO NOT FULLEY TIGHT IT DOWN THE THE POINT THAT IT WON'T FALL OFF. THIS WILL NEED TO COMPLETELY ALIGNED WHEN ATTACHED TO THE GANTRY.

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TIGHTEN ONLY THESETWO SCREWS. DON'TOVER TIGHTEN AS ITWILL BREAK THE MDF

8

NOTE: WIRES FROM THE STEPPER MOTOR SHOULD BE COMING OFF THE TOP TO AVOID INTERFERENCE WITH EXTRUDER ASEMBLY.

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9

10a 10b

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Step 10

HW01

V

U

OO

KK

KK T

W

HW04

HW13

HW15

HW16

SLIDE OUT UNTIGHTENED M3X45 SCREW (HW08) ENOUGH TO SLIDE IN THE TENSIONER SUB ASSEMBLYSHOWN IN STEP 10. CAREFULLY SLIDE BACK INTO PLACE THROUGH THE SCREW HOLES AND TIGHTEN INTO THE STEPPER MOTOR

SLIDE THE SPRING (HW13) ONTO THE LONG SCREW (HW04) AND PLACE WASHER (HW15) AT ITS BASE.SLIDE THROUGH THE TENSIONER SUB ASSEMBLY DOWN THROU THE HOLE IN "R" AND LIGHTLY FASTEN THE NUT (HW16) INTO PLACE TO HOLD TENSIONING SUBASSEMBLY INPLACE

NOTE: DUE TO THE BEEFING UP OF THE ACRYLIC WASHERS. PART KK MAY BE OVESIZED FOR THE BEARING. THIS MAY NEED TO BE SANDED DOWN FOR FIT.

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VERIFY THAT GROVE IN THE NUT IS IN LINEWITH THE BEARING

N

APPLY SUPER GLUEAROUND BOTH HOLESAND THEN PLACE OVER"HW08" BOLTS

MAKE SURE LOWER BAR ISLEVEL AND APPLY A SMALL

AMOUNT OF SUPER GLUE ALONGEDGE TO HOLD IN PLACE

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ATTACHING THE THERMISTOR (PART SS) AT THIS POINT WILL PREVENT DAMAGING OF THE FAN IN THE NEXT STEP. TO ATTACH, SEAT THE THERMISTOR INTO THE LOWEST HOLE OF THE HEATER BLOCK OF THE HOT END. FOR BEST RESULTS SQUIRT A SMALL AMOUNT OF RTV INTO THE HOLE WITH THE THERMISTOR. TAPE IN PLACE UNTIL THE RTV SETS (APPROXIMATELY 24 HOURS FOR BEST RESULTS). NEXT, WITH OR WITHOUT RTV, TAKE THE SUPPLIED KAPTON TAPE AND TAPE THE THERMISTOR WIRES UPTHE HEATER BLOCK SO THAT THEY ARE UP TOWARDS THE TOP OF THE HOT END.

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Z

Z

HW07

HW07

HOT END IS SLID UP THROUGH PART R UNTIL GROVE IS JUST VISIBLE THROUGH SLOT UNDER TENSION SUBASSEMBLY. SCREW HW07 THROUGH TWO HOLES IN BACK SIDE UNTIL THEY REACH THE GROOVE. SLIDE HOT END UP OR DOWN UNTIL THE GROVE IS CENTERED ON THE M3 X 30 SCREWS (HW07) THEN COMPLETELY SEAT THE SCREW. THIS WILL SECURE THE HOT END IN PLACE. NOTE: THE HOLE FOR THE HOT END MAY ACTUALLY BE TIGHT ANDSANDING OF THE HOLE MAY BE REQUIRED

*THERMISTOR AND KAPTON TAPE NOT SHOWN FOR CLARITY

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NN

NN

CC

CC

CCATTACH LINEAR BEARING TO EXTRUDER ASSEMBLY AT THIS POINT AT THE DESIGNATED LOCATIONS USINT 4 ZIPTIES NOTE YOU CAN STRENGTHED THE BEARING CONNECTION BY USING SUPER GLUE ALONG THE LONG EDGES OF THE BEARING WHERE IT MEATS THE MDF. DO NOT GET ANY SUPER GLUE IN SIDE THE BEARING ITSELF. CC

*THERMISTOR AND KAPTON TAPE NOT SHOWN FOR CLARITY

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THIS SHOULD BE WHAT YOUR FINAL ASSEMBLY LOOKS LIKE. THIS CONCLUDES THE EXTRUDER ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS.

*THERMISTOR AND KAPTON TAPE NOT

SHOWN FOR CLARITY

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X-Axis Gantry Assembly Instructions

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TwoUp

OneUp

OneUp and TwoUp Gantry Assembly Instructions

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PART: NNNAME: LM8LUU LINEAR BEARINGOneUp QTY: 2TwoUp QTY: 3

PART: GQTY: 1

PART: FFOneUp TYPE: 8mm X 200mmTwoUp TYPE: 8mm X 290mmQTY: 2

PART: FQTY: 1

PART: EQTY: 1

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PART: HW06TYPE: M3 X 16mm SKT HEAD SCREWQTY: 4

PART: HW03TYPE: 3/8"-16 X 1" BT HD SCREWQTY: 1


PART: KKTYPE: SMALL ACRYLIC WASHERQTY: 2

PART: LLTYPE: LARGE ACRYLIC WASHERQTY: 2

PART: PPTYPE: R6-2RS BALL BEARINGQTY: 1

PART: QQTYPE: 12-HTD3-05 ALUMINUM PULLEYQTY: 1

PART: HW18TYPE: #8-32 X 1/8" SET SCREWQTY: 2

PART: BBTYPE: 3/8-12 ACME LEAD SCREW NUTQTY: 1

PART: HW05TYPE: M3 X 8mm SKT HEAD SCREWQTY: 2

PART: OQTY: 2

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PART: EENAME: 300mm HTD3 TOOTHED BELTQTY: 1

PART: CCNAME: ZIP TIESOneUp QTY: 8TwoUp QTY: 10

PART: EXTRUDER ASSEMBLYQTY: 1

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E

O

G

O

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5 6

F

AA

HW06

NOTE: THE TABS MAY BE REALLY TIGHT. SANDING MAY REQUIRED TO ALLOW FOR THE TABS TO FIT INTO THE SLOTS. ALSO NOTE THAT PART F CAN NOW BE GLUED TO THE TABS USING WOOD GLUE FOR STRENGTH

NOTE: THE STEPPER MOTOR WIRES SHOULD COME OUT THE BOTTOM OF THE STEPPERMOTOR BUT CAN COME OUT THE SIDES AS WELL. THIS WILL DEPEND ON WHERE YOUPLACE THE PRINTER BOARD.

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DO NOT REMOVE TOP PLATE(TOP PLATE NOT SHOWN FORCLARITY ONLY)

7 8

9

QQ

HW18 (ON BOTH SIDES)

KKLL

PP

KK LL

HW03

NOTE: PART LL MAY NOT HAVE BEEN SUPPLIED. CAN REPLACE WITH 3/8" X 1 1/4" FENDER WASHERS

ATTACH 300mm BELT TO BOTH ALLUMINUMPULLY AND BEARING ASSEMBLY FROM STEP8. NOTE: PLACE BELT ON ALUMINUM PULLY FIRST THEN PUT BEARING ASSEMBLY INYO HOLE ON PART A, THIS WILL BE TIGHT. IMPORTANT SUGGESTED UPGRADE:REPLACE PART HW03 WITH A LONGER BUTTON HEAD AND NUT. THIS WILL ENSURE THAT THE PULLEY STAYS PERPENDICTULR TO THE GANTRY.

EE

STEP 8

OneUp Right Side Bearing

TwoUp Right Side Bearing Setup

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NN

NN

CC

CC

CC

IF YOU HAVE SPARE ZIP TIES, THIS MODIFICATION CAN BE USED TO STRENGTHEN THE CONNECTIONS BETWEEN THE MDF AND THE LINEAR BEARINGS

2ND ZIP TIE

1ST ZIP TIE

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PARTS REMOVED FOR CLARITY ONLY

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BB

HW05

ATTACH PART BB USING TWO HW05. ORIENTATION IS CRITICAL HERE AS YOU WANT THE LEAD SCREW NUT (PART BB) TO SUPPORT AND PUSH THE GANTRY, NOT PULL IT UP AS GRAVITY CAN CAUSE ISSUES

DETAIL E

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GANTRY ASSEMBLY

EXTRUDER ASSEMBLY

FF

FF

SLIDE EXTRUDER ASSEMBLY ONTO LINEAR RODS (PART FF). ATTACH LINEAR RODS WITH EXTRUDER ASSEMBLY TO X-AXIS GANTRY. ENSURE THE HOT END IS FACING THE PROPER DIRECTION (NOTE: THE Z-AXIS BRASS LEAD SCREW NUT SHOULD BE ON THE SAME SIDE AS HOT END AND TOP PLATE SHOULD BE ON TOP). SECURE WITH ZIP TIES (PART CC). TO ATTACH THE EXTRUDER TO THE DRIVE BELT THERE ARE SEVERAL OPTIONS:A.) [PERMANENT] PLACE A SMALL BEAD (1/2" TO 1" LONG) OF SUPER GLUE ON THE FLAT SIDE OFTHE BELT ON THE TOP SECTION. THEN PLACE THE BACK BAR OF THE EXTRUDER ASSEMBLY CENTERED ONTO THE SUPERGLUE. B.) A STRONG DOUBLE SIDED TAPE CAN BE USED TO MAKE A NON-PERMANENT ATTACHMENT IF MODIFICATION WILL BE DONE IN THE FUTURE. C.) USING ANOTHER 3D PRINTER PRINT ONE OF SEVERAL OPTION POSTED ON THE FORUMS http://www.fabric8r.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?23-QU-BD-OneUp-and-TwoUp-Tech-Support THIS CONCLUDES THE GANTRY ASSEMBLY.

DOWN

NOTE: FAN SHOWN FOR INTENT. FAN SHOULD BE ATTACHED TO COOL PLASTIC FROM EXTRUDER NO BRACKET SUPPLIED

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Base Assembly Instructions

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OneUp

TwoUp

OneUp and TwoUp Base Assembly Instructions

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PART: ANAME: SEE PARTS LISTQTY: 1

PART: BQTY: 2

PART: CQTY: 1

PART: HQTY: 1

PART: JQTY: 3

PART: KQTY: 1

PART: IQTY: 1

NOTE: SEE PARTS LIST FOR PART NAMES

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PART: DQTY: 1

PART: FFQTY: 2

PART: GGQTY: 2

PART: HHQTY: 1

PART:JJQTY: 2

PART: KKQTY: 4

PART: QQQTY: 1SCALE: 2:1

PART: MQTY: 2

PART: PPTYPE: R6-2RS BALL BEARINGQTY: 2

PART: MMTwoUp ONLYQTY: 2

PART: HW18TYPE: 8-32 X 1/8" SET SCREWQTY: 2

NOTE:THREADED HOLESON ROD ENDS

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PART: HW02TYPE: 3/8"-16 X 3/4"OneUp ONLYQTY: 2

PART: HW05TYPE: M3 X 8 SC HDQTY: 8

PART: HW10TYPE: M4 X 16 SOCKET HDQTY: 4

PART: HW11TYPE: M4 X 25 SOCKET HDQTY: 4

PART: HW17TYPE: M4 HEX NUTQTY: 4


PART: NNTYPE: LM8LUUQTY: 2

PART: HW12TYPE: MEDIUM SPRINGQTY: 4

PART: CCTYPE: ZIP TIESQTY: 8

PART: EETYPE: STRAIGHT TOOTHED BELTQTY: 1

PART: HW09TYPE: M4 X 8 SC HDQTY: 2

PART: HW03TYPE: 3/8"-16 X 1"TwoUp ONLYQTY: 2

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IH

HW05

HW05

HOLES OFFSETTOWARDS BOTTOM

CABLES TOWARDSBOTTOM OR TOWARDS

THE RIGHT (AWAY FROM

RODS WHEN ASSEMBLED)

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J

ENSURE WIRES FROM STEPPERMOTOR ARE PULLED DOWN ANDOUT THROUGH HOLE IN PART A

STEP 1 SUBASSEMBLY

FEED WIRES THROUGHLARGE HOLE IN BOTTOM

AS YOU SEAT

K

ENSURE THE HOLESIN PARTS A, I, AND KARE IN LINE AT THISPOINT

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GROOVE IN B TOWARDSHORIZONTAL STEPPER MOTOR

B

B

ATTACH PART "NN" TOPART "A" USING TWOZIP TIES (PART CC)

REPEAT FOROTHER "NN"

QQ

FASTEN PART "QQ" TO THE HORIZONTAL STEPPER MOTOR USINGTWO #8-32 X 1/8" SET SCREWS (HW18). DO NOT TIGHTEN COMPLETELY AT THIS POINT NOTE: SET SCREWS MAY ALREADY BE INSIDE THE PULLEY

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MM

PP

KKJJ

HW03

10

DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN ZIPTIES AS THEY CAN BREAK THROUGH THE MDF SLOTS AT THIS CONNECTION POINT

JJ

KKJJ

JJ

HW02

KK

KK

PP

TwoUp

OneUpTwoUp

OneUp

GLUE MAY NOW BE USED TO SECURE ALL MDF PARTS

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STEP 10 SUB ASSEMBLY11

FF

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ATTACH PART "C" TO PART "FF" USING FOUR ZIP TIES (PART CC). PART "C" SHOULD BE ON TOP OF THE RODS AND THE RODS SHOULD SIT INSIDE THE SLOTS IN PART "C". DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN ZIPTIES AS THEY CAN BREAK THROUGH THE MDF SLOTS AT THIS CONNECTION POINT. ENSURE THE OPENING IS TOWARDS THE HORIZONTAL STEPPER MOTOR.

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ALIGN THE GROOVES IN PART "QQ" WITH CENTER OF BEARINGS THEN TIGHTEN COMPLETELY.

CONNECTIONPOINT

CONNECTIONPOINT

BE CAREFUL TO ENSURE ALIGNMENT IS GOOD ASIF THE BELT RUBS IT WILL CREATE EXTRA TENSION FROM THE BELT RUBBING.

BELT CONFIG.

DETAIL A1

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A1

RUN BELT (PART DD) THROUGH BEARINGS AND ALUMINUM PULLEY AS SHOWN IN THE BELT CONFIG. ENSURE THE TEETH IN BELT ARE FACING DOWN. TO ATTACH THE BELT TO PART "C", YOU WILL NEED TWO PART "M" AND FOUR PART "HW10". PART "HW10" SHOULD BE FASTENED IN FROM THE BOTTOM OF PART "C". PUT ONE SIDE OF THE TOOTHED BELT IN PLACE UNDER ONE OF THE CLAMPS (PART M) AND TIGHTEN (SEE DETAIL A1). NEXT PULL THE OTHER SIDE OF THE BELT TOWARDS THE OTHER CLAMP. PULL ANY SLACK OUT OF THE FASTENED SIDE UNTIL TIGHT, IT SHOULD MAKE A KIND OF "TWANG" SOUND LIKE AN OUT OF TUNE GUITAR. PULL THE REMAINDER OF THE BELT AND PLACE UNDER THE SECOND CLAMP. PULL BELT TIGHT WHILE CLAMPING UNTIL THIS SIDE ALL HAS A "TWANG" (THIS WILL ENSURE ACCURATE Y-AXIS MOVEMENT). A RECOMMENDED ADDITION WOULD BE TO PURCHASE FOUR M4 HEX NUT AND FASTEN THEM TO THE BACK SIDE OF HW10 ON THE TOP OF PART C.

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HW11

HW12

HW17

ATTACH BUILD PLATFORM (PART D) TO PART "C" USING FOUR SETS OF PART "HW11","HW12" AND "HW17". PROPER LEVELING DOESN'T HAVE TO BE ACHEIVED AT THIS TIME. NOTE: ON THE OneUp, THE BUILD PLATE IS NOT SYMETRICAL. THE HOLES CLOSEST TO THE EDGE SHOULD BE ON THE BELT SIDE. TO LEVEL EITHER: A.) USE BUBBLE LEVEL AND MAKE PERFECTLY FLAT IN BOTH X AND Y DIRECTIONS B.) AFTER GANTRY IS ASSEMBLED AND INSTALLED, LOWER THE GANTRY AND LOCATE EXTRUDER NOZZLE TO ONE CORNER OF THE BUILD PLATFORM AND MOVE THE PLATFORM UP/DOWN TO NOZZEL'S LOWEST POINT (NOZZLE SHOULD JUST TOUCH THE PLATFORM). THEN MOVE THE EXTRUDER NOZZEL TO THE NEXT CORNER AND BRING UP/DOWN TO THE NOZZLE. REPEAT FOR ALL CORNERS. THIS WILL NOT LEVEL THE BED TO THE GROUND BUT LEVEL IT TO THE EXTRUDER WHICH IS MORE RELIABLE.

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NOTE: THE HOLES FOR THE LEVEING BOLTS MAY NEED TO BE DRILLED OUT SLIGHTLY. THE BED SHOULD MOVE FREELY ON THE SCREW WITH THE SPRING PROVIDING THE LEVELING

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THE VERTICAL RODS (PART GG) HAVE THREADED HOLES ON BOTH ENDS. THESE SLIDE INTO THE TWO HOLES ON PARTS I & K. THEY SHOULD SEAT ALL THE WAY DOWN ONTO PART A AND BE SECURED USING TWO M4X8 (HW09) SCREWS THROUGH THE BOTTOM OF PART A. THE TOP TWO HOLES WILL REMAIN OPEN UNTIL THE X-AXIS GANTRY IS ATTACHED. THIS COMPLETES THE BASE ASSEMBLY OF THE TwoUp 3D PRINTER.

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OneUp and TwoUp Final Assembly Instructions

TwoUp

OneUp

NOTE: FAN SHOWN FOR INTENT

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PART: SSQTY: 1

PART: HW05TYPE: M3 X 8 SCKT HDQTY: 2

PART: HHSize: 3/8"-12 AMCE SCREWQTY: 1

PART: EL01TYPE: Printrboard Rev DQTY: 1

Base AssemblyQTY: 1

Gantry/Extruder AssemblyQTY: 1

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GANTRY/EXTRUDERASSEMBLY

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SS

HW05

HW05

HH

BOLT PART SS TO THE VERTICAL RODS TO SQUARE UP THE UNIT. NEXT THREAD PART HH DOWN THROUGH THE X-AXIS GANTRY. IF GANTRYASSEMBLY HAS BEEN ASSEMBLY CORRECTLY THE Z-AXIS ROD SHOULD LINE UP WITH THE Z-AXIS STEPPER MOTOR. iF THE THREADED ROD DOESN'T LINE UP DOUBLE CHECK YOUR ASSEMBLY'S IF ALL ITEMS WERE DONE CORRECTLY YOU MAY HAVE THE OLD YZTOPPPLATE WHICH YOU WILL NEED TO SUBMITA TICKET FOR THE NEW PART. NEXT SECURE THREADED ROD (HH) TO THE VERTICAL STEPPER MOTOR IN THE BASE ASSEMBLY USING BLUE LOCTITE. WARNING:PLACE SOMETHING TO KEEP THE LOCTITE FROM RUNNING INTO THE MOTOR. ANY LOCTITE THAT GETS INTO THE MOTOR WILL DESTROY THE MOTOR.

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X-AXIS STEPPER MOTOR

Y-AXIS STEPPER MOTORZ-AXIS STEPPER MOTOR

EXTRUDER STEPPER MOTOR

FAN

EXTRUDER THERMISTOR

SD SLOT

RESET BUTTON

POWER PORT

HOT END

HEATED BED

HEATED BED THERMISTOR

BOOT LOADER PINS(JUMPER SHOULD BEON ONE PIN ONLY. CHECK BOARD FLASHINGINSTRUCTIONS ON FORUM)

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1

END STOP PIN LOCATIONS (FOR OPTIONAL ENDSTOPS, NOT SUPPLIED IN KIT)NOTE: PIN 2 HAS CONSTANT POWER, DO NOT SHORT ACROSS EMERGENCY STOP IS NOT PRESENT IN THE FIRMWARE OF THE PRINTRBOARD, SO THIS IS NOT AN ACTIVE PORT

V- V+

V- V+

CLIP

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HEATED BED ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

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OneUp and TwoUp Heated Bed Instructions

TwoUp

OneUp

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TwoUp

OneUp

OneUp

TwoUp

PART: HBUK02QTY: 1

PART: HBUK01QTY: 1

PART: HBUK03QTY: 1

PART: HBUK04QTY: 1

PART: HBUK05QTY: 2

PART: HBKU06SIZE: M4 X 16 SOCKET HDQTY: 4

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REMOVE THE EXSITING BUILD PLATFORM.A.) FIRST REMOVE THE NUTS HW17 FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE BUILD PLATFORM.B.) HOLD THE BUILD PLATE AS YOU REMOVE THESCREWS AS THEY MAY POP UP.C.) REMOVE THE SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREWS (HW11) AND THE LEVELING SPRINGS (HW12).

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HW12

HW17

HW11

ATTACH BUILD PLATFORM (PART HBUK02) TO PART "C" REUSING THE "HW11","HW12" AND "HW17". NOTE, THE SLOT IN THE BUILD PLATFORM SHOULD BE TOWARDS THEBACK OF THE PRINTER/ PROPER LEVELING DOESN'T HAVE TO BE ACHEIVED AT THIS TIME. NOTE: ON THE OneUp, THE BUILD PLATE IS STILL NOT SYMETRICAL. THE HOLES CLOSEST TO THE EDGE SHOULD BE ON THE BELT SIDE.

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PLACE THE BASSALT HEATED PLATE ONTO THE Y-AXIS BED. MAKE SURE ALL THE WIRES ARE TOWARDS THE BACK SIDE OF

Y-AXIS BUILD PLATFORM. THEY SHOULD FIT NICELY INTO THE

SLOT IN THE NEW BUILD PLATFORM.

NEXT TAKE THE FOUR M4X16 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREWS

(HBKU06) AND SCREW THEM IN FROM THE TOP TO CLAMP THE BASSALT BED INTO PLACE.

YOU CAN STREGTHEN THE CLAMP BY USING SOME M4 WASHERSAND PUTTING THEM BETWEEN THE HEAD OF THE CAP SCREW

AND THE BASSALT BED. NOTE THIS WILL SLIGHTLY REDUCE

THE BUILD AREA AT THE SCRE POINTS BUT WON'T COMPLETELYELIMINATE YOUR BUILD AREA.

YOU CAN ALSO GET LONGER SCREWS AND AD M4 NUTS TO

PROVIDE A BETTER HOLD OF THE M4 CAP SCREW. NOTE THIS

WILL MEAN THAT YOU WILL NEED TO ATTACH THE BASSALT BED TO THE NEW BUILD PLATFORM BEFORE ATTACHING THE

NEW BUILD PLATFORM TO THE BASE.

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REMOVE ONE CRIMP CONNECTOR FROM THE CONNECTOR PACK. THEN TAKE ONE OF THE THERMISTOR WIRES (THE BLACK THIN WIRES) AND SLIDE IT INTO THE OPEN END OF THE CRIMP CONNECTOR (THE NON CONE SIDE). YOU WILL WANT 75-100% OF THE OPEN WIRE INSIDE OF THE CRIMP CONNECTOR. THEN CRIMP ALL THE OPEN TABS AROUND THE WIRE. IT SHOULD NOT BE ABLE TO PULL OUT IF DONE PROPERLY. REPEAT WITH THE SECOND THERMISTOR WIRE.

TAB SLOT

SLIDE THE CRIMP CONNECTOR INTO THE 2 PIN MOLEX CONNECTOR. NOTE THERE IS A TAB ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE CRIMP CONNECTOR. IT NEEDS TOLINE UP WITH THE CONNECTOR IN THE SLOT OF THEMOLEX CONNECTOR REPEAT WITH THE SECOND CONNECTOR

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REMOVE ANOTHER CRIMP CONNECTOR FROM THE CONNECTOR PACK. THEN TAKE ONE OF THE HEATED BED WIRES (FROM THE ORANGE CABLE) AND SLIDE IT INTO THE OPEN END OF THE CRIMP CONNECTOR (THE NON CONE SIDE). YOU WILL WANT 75-100% OF THE OPEN WIRE INSIDE OF THE CRIMP CONNECTOR. THEN CRIMP ALL THE OPEN TABS AROUND THE WIRE. IT SHOULD NOT BE ABLE TO PULL OUT IF DONE PROPERLY. NOTE THISWIRE IS MUCH THICKER THAN THE THERMISTOR WIRES REPEAT WITH THE SECOND HEATED BED WIRE.

SLIDE THE CRIMP CONNECTOR INTO THE 4 PIN MOLEX CONNECTOR. NOTE THERE IS A TAB ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE CRIMP CONNECTOR. IT NEEDS TOLINE UP WITH THE CONNECTOR IN THE SLOT OF THEMOLEX CONNECTOR. SEE DETAIL FOR SLOT NUMBER. REPEAT WITH THE SECOND CONNECTOR

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PLACE WIRES INTO SLOTS 1 AND 4

1 2 3 4

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EXTRUDER THERMISTOR

RESET BUTTON

HEATED BED

HEATED BED THERMISTOR

WITH THE POWER OFF TO THE BOARD, CONNECT THE 4 PIN MOLEX CONNECTOR FOR THE HEATED TO THE APROPRIATE 4 PIN CONNECTION ON THE BOARD. NOTE THIS CONNECTOR IS DIRECTLY NEXT TO THE HOT END 4 PIN CONNECTOR. THE MOLEX CONNECTOR HAS TWO GUIDS WHICH SHOULD MATCH UP TO THE PLASTIC TAB ON THE BOARD CONNECTION POINT. NEXT CONNECT THE 2 PIN MOLEX CONNECTOR TO THE SECOND THERMISTOR CONNECTION POINT. AGAIN THIS CONNECTION POINT ON THE BOARD IS DIRECTLY NEXT TO THE HOT ENDS THERMISTOR CONNECTOR. BE SURE THE CONNECTORS ARE FULLY SEATED BEFORE RESTORING POWER TO THE BOARD. IF YOU'VE UPDATED YOUR FIRMWARE WITH THE FIRMWARE LISTED ON THE MAIN PAGE OF THE FORUMS THEN THE HEATED BED AND THERMISTOR SHOULD WORK WITHOUT ANY NEED FOR ADDITIONAL MODIFICATION. IN REPETIER, PRESS THE PRINTER SETTINGS BUTTON IN THE TOP RIGHT AND GO TO THE PRINTER TAB. THIS IS WHERE YOU WILL PUT THE TEMPERATURE YOU WANT THE HEATED BED TO REACH. INSIDE YOUR SLICER CONFIGURATION GO TO THE FILAMENT SETTINGS TAB AND PUT A TEMPERATURE IN THE FIRST LAYER AND OTHER LAYERS BASED ON THE TYPE OF FILAMENT YOUR USING (PLA OR ABS)

HOT END

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Special Thanks

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Special Thanks

Special thanks to the active members who assisted in critiquing the instructions sheets and making them as perfect as we could. Thank you guys for the suggestions and opinions. I hope that these instructons help everyone assembly their printers with as little pain and frustrations as possible. MacAttack, Dpharris, Toybuilder, laird, tth, drs, Jwag, jqsteward,Kasss Gnarl, Winterkill, Firestorm76, and all those who's name I missed.

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Revisions

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YR/MO/DY NO. REVISION RECORD

3/19/2014 A-2 Part KK Quatity changed from 6 to 8; Gantry Assembly Sheet 7 Step 8 callout part G changed to HW03

3/20/2014 A-2 Reduced QTY of Part HW05 From 11 to 10; Removed Fan Bracket from Parts List

4/6/2014 B

Added Power Connector Note to the Final Assembly Instructions Page; Added Modification Note #10 to

Suggested Modifications Section; Added reference note to Gantry Assembly Section referencing the

Modifications page for the bolt replacement modifications (#10); Added Step to Extruder Assembly

Section for Attaching the Brass Feeder Nut to the Stepper Motor; Added Note to Base Assembly

Instructions to ensure the holes for the Z-Axis Rods are in line. Added Note To Extruder Assembly

Section for possibly needing to sand down Part KK due to the Beefing up of the Washer.

Additional changes noted at

http://www.fabric8r.com/forums/showthread.php?1557-Instructions-Update-January-Backers-Help-Req

uested/page4

Cover SheetSuggested Tools & ModificationsPrinter Parts ListElectronics Carrier Parts ListHeated Bed Upgrade Kit Parts ListExtruder Assembly InstructionsGantry Assembly InstructionsBase Assembly InstructionsPrinter Final Assembly instructionsPrintr Board DiagramHeated Bed Upgrade Kit Assembly InstructionsSpecial Thanks and Revision List

QU-BD OneUp and TwoUp Assembly Instructions

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Transcript of QU-BD OneUp and TwoUp Assembly Instructions