PURL KNITTED STRUCTURES

BY- SWATI SUMANB.F.Tech-4Roll-19

WHAT ARE PURL KNITS ? Purl was originally spelt

“pearl” and was so named because of its similar appearance to pearl.

Purl is the only structure having certain wales containing both face and reverse meshed loops.A garment-length sequence, such as a ribbed half-hose, is defined as purl, whereas smaller sections of its length may consist of plain and rib sections.

 

This stitch is also known as the links/links stitch. It is made on flatbed and circular machines by needles using hooks on both ends. The hooks alternately draw loops to the front of the fabric in one course, and to the back in the next course. It is a slow and costly technique. Purl-stitched fabric looks the same on both sides and resembles the reverse of the plain knit.

PRODUCTION OF PURL KNITS

Originally, purl knit production required special equipment using double-ended latch needles.

The needle bed of these machines are set on the same plane instead of being in an inverted “V” formation

PURL FABRIC STRUCTURE

PURL NEEDLE TRANSFER ACTION

PURL NEEDLE TRANSFER ACTION

1 Engagement of the head of the receiving slider with the needle hook that was originally knitting from the opposing bed.

2 Cam action causing the head of the delivering slider to pivot outwards from the trick and thus disengage itself from the other hook of the needle.

3 Sufficient free space to allow the heads of the sliders to pivot outwards from their tricks during engagement and disengagement of the needles.

4 A positive action which maintains the engagement of the head of a slider with a needle hook throughout its knitting cycle by ensuring that it is pressed down into the trick.

PURL KNITTING MACHINE

In the past, purl structures were knitted only on flat bed and double cylinder purl machines employing double-ended latch needles. Electronically-controlled

V-bed flat machines with rib loop transfer and racking facilities are now used.

There are two types of purl needle bed machine

(i) Flat Bed Purls, which have two horizontally opposed needle beds

(ii) Circular Purls (Double Cylinder Machines),

which have two superimposed cylinders one above the other.

Both types of machines generally produce garment lengths.

Flat bed purls are no longer built because electronically-controlled V-bed flat machines can now knit types of links-links designs.

Small diameter (6 inch/15cm or less) double cylinder machines are used to knit broad rib socks, whereas larger diameter machines produce knitwear.

PROPERTIES

Produced on links and links machines Slowest of the knitting machines More expensive Good stretch in all direction Stretches out of shape easily Crosswise stretch less than a jersey knit Thicker than jersey knits Does not curl

TYPES OF PURL KNITS

1. The simplest purl is 1 X 1 purl, which is the garter stitch. It consists of alternate courses of all face and all reverse loops and is produced by the needles knitting in one bed and then transferring over to the other bed to knit the next course. Its lateral stretch is equal to plain, but its length-wise elasticity is almost double.

In the USA, 1 X 1 purl is sometimes made up at right angles to the knitting sequence and is then termed ‘Alpaca stitch’.

2. Another simple purl is moss stitch, which consists of face and reverse loops in alternate courses and wales.

3. Basket purls consist of rectangular areas of all X or all O loops, which alternate with each other.

Examples include 5 X 3, 7 X 3, 4 X 4

1X1 PURL STRUCTURE

English Notation Needle Notation

2X2 PURL STRUCTURE

English Notation Needle Notation

KNITTING VS. PURLING Purling is almost the same as knitting stitch. It

almost produces the same style or end result but these two types of stitches differ in some aspects.

1. A stitch made by purling is like a raised loop while if it is done by knitting it will appear as a flat half V.

2. Purling is usually used to make the non-visible surface of clothing while knitting is generally done for the visible clothing surfaces.

3. Purling is done by driving the needle down and then in front of the stitch while knitting is done by driving the needle inside up then behind the stitch.

END USES

Infant and children’s wear

Sweaters scarves

REFERENCES

Books:- Knitting Technology-David J.Spencer Flat Knitting Technology- Dr.S Raz Fundamentals of Weft Knitting- George A. Tay Websites:- www.google.co.in www.wikipedia.com www.knitepedia.co.uk http://sourcing.indiamart.com/apparel/knitted-

garments-information/types-of-knitting/ http://www.differencebetween.net/

miscellaneous/difference-between-knitting-and-purling/

THANK YOU…!!!