Project on cultural influence on fashion

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1 Executive Summary: This report discusses the evolution of Shiatzy Chen, a Taiwan based fashion design house. It also discusses how it is influenced by the oldest culture in the world, how the brand successfully amalgamates and executes western silhouettes and styles with the traditional details. The report further highlights the business aspects of the brand and realizes its target consumer and clients. It also throws some light on the culture of Taiwan and how the brand is influenced by it, finally it compares the design philosophy with another designer of a different ethnicity with some recommendations on the growth and expansion of the brand globally.

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Influence of chinese cultural on Taiwanese fashion designer Shiatzy Chen

Transcript of Project on cultural influence on fashion

Page 1: Project on cultural influence on fashion

1

Executive Summary:

This report discusses the evolution of Shiatzy Chen, a Taiwan based fashion design house. It

also discusses how it is influenced by the oldest culture in the world, how the brand

successfully amalgamates and executes western silhouettes and styles with the traditional

details. The report further highlights the business aspects of the brand and realizes its target

consumer and clients. It also throws some light on the culture of Taiwan and how the brand is

influenced by it, finally it compares the design philosophy with another designer of a

different ethnicity with some recommendations on the growth and expansion of the brand

globally.

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Table of Contents

Introduction......................................................................................................................... 3

1. History & Background of the Brand and Designer ......................................... 4

2. Commercial accomplishments of Shiatzy Chen ................................................ 5

3. Description of their ethnicity and their culture ............................................... 6

4. Cultural influence in the designs .................................................................... 7-8

5. Shiatzy Chen accepted in the Chambre Syndicale .......................................... 9

6. Shiatzy Chen’s Celebrity Clients ............................................................... 10-11

7. Target consumers - consumer profile ............................................................. 12

8. Why do they prefer to buy from Shiatzy Chen .............................................. 13

9. Indian Designer with a similar design philosophy .................................... 14-16

10. Suggestions and recommendations ................................................................. 16

Conclusion ......................................................................................................................... 17

Bibliography ................................................................................................................. 18-19

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Introduction:

Shiatzy Chen, a rising name in the global fashion arena since the last decade, has very well

used the “rising of the east” phrase to its success. A Taiwan based fashion house, whose roots

are still buried down the traditional and vibrant past of the orient, but has evolved to the

western standards and has portrayed to the world a very contemporary style.

Taiwan has been long struggling with its cultural and political identity, but as the major

influence is Chinese, it still manages to portray itself as a modern yet conservative culture.

With its modern infrastructure and architecture, it still houses its traditions and has preserved

its culture and ethnicities.

Due to the global approach, Shiatzy Chen has managed to attract several consumers from

different ethnicities and cultures. Through cross cultural advertisement campaigns and stores

in different part of the world Shiatzy Chen tries to convey that the world is one culture.

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1. History & Background of the Brand and Designer:

History & Background of the Brand: Established in 1978,

Shiatzy Chen followed the precepts of tradition and

modernity, amalgamating the two into new creations and

innovative designs. Shaped by ancient Chinese culture and

blending with modern aesthetics, this brand applies these

elements with western craftsmanship into making the

finest contemporary pieces, showcasing a timeless classic

look that will dominate through generations. Through its

fashion house in Taipei, Taiwan, Shiatzy Chen created the “New Look of China” through its

contemporary look; it interpreted the Chinese cultural history with avant garde styles and

silhouettes.

Creative director, Wang Chen Tsai-Hsia, has put together elaborate embroidered patterns and

techniques keeping in mind the texture, fall, luminance as well as the intricacy of the fabric.

She involves unflawed new techniques and artistry. (www.shiatzychen.com)

History and Background of the Designer: Born in Taiwan, Chen Tsai-hsia Wang, the creative

head, was a dressmaker in her uncle’s factory

during the late 1960’s. In 1972, she met her

husband, was initially a dressmaker in her uncle's

factory in the late 1960s. In 1972, she met her

husband, Wang Yuan-hong, a businessman in the

textile industry. The couple moved to Taipei and

soon in 1978 formed an international company,

Shiatzy Chen. “Styles of China” is the literally

translation of Shiatzy. Since its inception, Shiatzy

Chen was known as the women’s clothing label,

but later in 1987, it’s been designing men’s wear. Chen uses the “Chinese style as the

fundamental concept” and “Western style for practicality.” The brand has clothes with simple

western clean lines, but preserves distinctive Chinese details and features, like the mandarin

collar, knotted buttons and other Chinese cultural elements. (www.shiatzychen.com)

Source: Shiatzy Chen’s 35th anniversary.

(ydnewstyle.com)

Source : Wang Chen Tsai-Hsia (www.forbes.com)

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2. Commercial accomplishments of Shiatzy Chen:

Shiatzy Chen as a brand started growing out of Taiwan in the starting of the last decade.

Since the year 2000, it grew from a knitwear exporting manufacturing unit to a fashion house.

Its Commercial Accomplishments are as follows.

Year 2000: Shiatzy Chen was given an invitation to showcase her collection in the Asia

Designers Fashion Show, Singapore.

Year 2001: Shiatzy International opened their first store in Paris, as the first Taiwanese brand

to enter Europe.

Year 2002: Shiatzy Chen was invited to Shanghai to showcase her collection. She also

designed a couture collection for Swarovski, an Austria based crystal manufacturing brand.

Year 2003: Shiatzy International opened its first store in Shanghai. Celebrated its 25th

anniversary. Asian wall street journal selected Shiatzy Chen as an up and coming brand.

Year 2004: The London Financial Times elected Shiatzy Chen as the most popular fashion

brand name. Shiatzy Chen became the only Taiwanese brand to be invited to the Shanghai

International Fashion Festival and was awarded the best brand for quality custom made

clothing. Shiatzy International opened up a boutique in Beijing and Hong Kong.

Year 2008: Listen and Invited in Paris Fashion Week’s official calendar, SS’09 collection.

Year 2009: Paris Fashion Week- 2009/2010 Fall Winter collections launched.

Year 2010: Spring-Summer 2010 collection launched in Pairs Fashion Week

Become official member of French Fashion Federation – Chambre Syndicale.

Paris Fashion Week -2010/2011 Fall-Winter collections launched. (www.modemonline.com)

Observation: Shiatzy Chen is considered to be the “Chanel of the east”, due to its traditional

yet modern silhouettes, which fit really well to the changing scenario of the east and the

interest of the west towards the east. Since the year 2000, there have been quite many

commercial accomplishments for Shiatzy Chen, including new stores, global expansion,

awards, as well as the acceptance of membership by Chambre Syndicale, as the only

Taiwanese fashion house, and it still continues to grow each year with its expansion

strategies.

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3. Description of their ethnicity and their culture:

Taiwan Culture

For over centuries, Taiwan has been under

foreign rule and administration, moulding and

influencing the culture and policies. Anciently,

for a significant span of time, Taiwan was under

the rule of Chinese bureaucrats and was also a

Japanese colony, therefore a huge chunk of

Taiwan’s Society consist of an amalgamation of

different cultures. Taiwan now is a

constitutional republic state under the Republic of China; therefore it is immensely influenced

by the Chinese culture. Its a perfect combination of Confucianism Han Chinese culture as

well as bits and pieces of Japanese, American, European, and other local cultures and

traditions. Infact, the culture of Taiwan is a “perfect blend of modernity with traditional

elements.” (www.mapsofworld.com)

After World War II, China tried to forge a common

national identity on Taiwan, but the project was

doomed as the nation party of Taiwan demanded free

participation in the post war economic growth that

was hitting the world. It fuelled the revival of their

culture and identity; although Taiwan’s national

identity still remains debatable.

(www.everyculture.com)

The Taiwan population is a mix of the Aborigines tribe, which are believed to be one of the

earliest inhabitants. A separate identity and political voice has been maintained by the

Hokkien Taiwanese, who are originally from the Guangdong Province, as well as the Han

Chinese which are inhabitants from China, others are a mix of other cultures of the world,

including Japan.(www.everyculture.com)

Source : Culture of Taiwan (www.reachtoteachrecruiting.com)

Source: Taiwan and China cultural debate (www.aaa.org.hk)

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4. Cultural influence in the designs:

Chinese clothing with clean modern lines, these are the combining influences that Shiatzy

Chen’s designs are known for. The beauty, colours, styles and silhouette of the oriental is

what inspires the brand Shiatzy Chen. The creations of Shiatzy Chen is made by interpreting

the oriental pictures and images, litrary works. Shiatzy Chen, integrates traditional Chinese

embroideries into new and innovative motifs and styles. Its pieces often include handcrafted

prints, inspired from the orient, as well as intricate embroidery done by the Suzhou technique.

Spring/Summer 2009- PORCELAIN

The traditions of Chinese

classics to today’s streets

wear classics, shiatzy Chen

has always combined these

two languages to form what

we see here- The S/S

2009:Porcelain. Inspired by

the fine porcelain from the

Sung Dynasty of China has been known for its refinement, elegance and taste. The porcelain

vessles takes shape in this collection through elongated forms, a glazed color palette, the fine

patina on the fabric, collar details, shoulders, the structure and silhouette as well as the cut

and the form.

The Color palette has

intensified hues like

Blood, Celadon, Peach,

Blanc de Blanc, which

act as a tribute to the

iconic vase of the past

with the modern tints.

(fashiongear.fibre2fashi

on.com)

Source: Porcelain (fashiongear.fibre2fashion.com)

Source: Porcelain (fashiongear.fibre2fashion.com)

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Autumn/Winter 2010: Essence of Jade

Jade has been historically been perceived as the

most valuable and precious gem as it symbolizes

nobility, royalty and perfection. In Chinese Culture

it embodied Confucian virtues of wisdom, justness,

courage and humble modesty. Gentlemen and

Philosophers used Jade as a noble accessory in

history.

Shiatzy Chen’s Autumn/Winter 2010 collection

attempts to produce designs incorporating the

underlying quality of jade in ancient Chinese

craftsmanship.

The collection creates an oriental aura, which consists of H line silhouettes which are

elegantly simple, and also takes us back to the women’s clothing back in 1950s. The

garments are adorned with accessories made of luxurious jade as well as sparkling Swarovski

crystals. Thus the collection is a beautiful unity of oriental aesthetics as well as the splendour

of the west. (fashiongear.fibre2fashion.com)

Observation: Shiatzy Chen as a Brand has been influenced and born out of the traditional

Chinese ethnic aesthetics and continues to do so, but at Shiatzy Chen culture and

Westernization goes hand in hand. However as we can see in the above collections, the initial

inspiration is taken from the Chinese culture blending with westernized styles and cuts.

Source:Essence of Jade (fashiongear.fibre2fashion.com)

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5. Shiatzy Chen accepted in the Chambre Syndicale:

About Chambre Syndicale De La Couture:

It’s the regulatory commission that takes the decisions on which fashion houses are eligible

of becoming genuine Haute Couture houses. The Administration body of the federation

educates, promotes, defends and represents its members; it also deals with all the social and

working benefits and recommends its members advices related to labour and management. It

deals with piracy issues, foreign relations, and timetable of the fashion collections. (Thomas,

nd)

Strict Regulations for membership:

There are certain strict rules to classify as a couture house. A couturier must design and

produce 30-50 original and new designs of both day wear as well as evening wear for every

collection, twice a year showcase their collection in Paris.(2 collections a year). They should

employ a minimum of 15-20 full time technical workers at one studio or workshop. Because

of the strict rules and regulations only a few design houses can make it to be a member of the

Chambre, and use the label of Haute Couture. (Thomas, nd)

Observation: It is not a small feat for any designer to become a part of the Chambre

Syndicale, as The French Federation of Haute Couture, Paris invites designers, accredits and

invites only certain designers from all over the world, who have been recognized for their

distinguished designs involving exceptional craftsmanship and quality. Shiatzy Chen is the

only design house from Taiwan to be honoured as a member of the Federation and can refer

to its collection as a Haute Couture. The Federation, started in 1868, in order to preserve the

quality and reputation of Couture, is highly selective with the members that they select.

Therefore the members have to live up to the expectation of the Federation of quality and

reputation of their Couture collections. Abiding by the strict regulations of the Chambre

Syndicale, and keeping in mind the exceptional designs and quality, Shiatzy Chen is amongst

the few designers from Asia who made it to be a Haute Couture House, and a member of the

Syndicale.

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6. Shiatzy Chen’s Celebrity Client

Source: Celebrity clients (coronar.com.my)

Celebrities include actress and singer Tiffany Hsu and Justin Ji,

Miss Malaysia/Universe 2011 Deborah Henry and Malaysian actor Hans Issac.

Datin Seri Tiara Jacquelina Korean Actress Pace Wu Sara Jessica Parker in Shiatzy Chen.

wearing a burgundy in Venice Film festival.

Shiatzy chen dress.

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Lady gaga in a high collar Chinese Actress Michelle Jessica Alba in Shiatzy Chen

Shiatzy Chen top Yeoh in Shiatzy Chen

Other Celebrity Clients include: Hong Kong singer and actress Karen Mok, Television

host, Patty Hou, Actress Chen Shu, Beauty Queen Yu Wenxia, Actress Carrie Lam, president

and CEO of Charmonde Luxury Limited Christie Wo, Actress, DJ, and TV show host Anna

Yau, UK based Model Jessica Minh Anh. (www.butterboom.com, 2012)

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7. Target consumers - consumer profile (demographic and psychographic

profiles)

Source: Target market (fashionbi.com)

Targ

et C

on

sum

er P

rofi

le

•Women

•Men

Dem

ogra

ph

ic P

rofi

le

•Age: 25 to 40

•Income: $350,000+

•Occupation:Actor, Celebrity, Model, TV star, Beauty pegant winner, Owner of a big firm, Socialite.

•Marital status: Both single and Married.

• Ethnic background: South east Asian, American, European.

Psy

chogra

ph

ic P

rofi

le

• Attitudes: Liberal, Cultural, Experimental. • Values: Traditional yet modern. • Interests/hobbies: Social gatherings, Enjoys and appriciates Art and Culture, Fashion shows, Celebrity gatherings. • Lifestyles: Elite and upper middle class. • Behavior: Socially active, Art lover.

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8. Why do they prefer to buy from Shiatzy Chen:

As we can see that for Shiatzy Chen the target consumers are the stars and celebrities. Apart

from them it also targets the upper middle class market, especially in the Chinese market of

Shanghai, Beijing, Hong Kong, Macau, and of course its birth place Taiwan.

As Shiatzy Chen evolved from a completely traditional to a contemporary brand, it also had

an image transformation globally, thus affecting its presence. People started noticing the

authenticity of the oldest culture in the world blended together and stitched with western

simplicity and lucidity, in a Shiatzy Chen piece of clothing.

The South-East Asian market, which is still coping up with its conservative nature and trying

to merge their lifestyles with the new thought of the west, find this brand as ‘exactly what

they are looking for’ as it connects instantly with the psychographics’ of the target consumer,

thus providing them with the right amalgamation of their east and the west.

As Shiatzy Chen opened its only store in Paris, it

indicated that it has a global presence and it wants

to target other consumers from the west and not just

the South-East Asian market. Its constant efforts in

the advertisements in the magazines and fashion

periodicals in Paris, and its fashion showcases in the

Fashion week at Paris have turned many heads, and

now even American Hollywood Celebrities have

accepted this brand as a good way to experience the

authenticity of the orient.

The excellent craftsmanship and the focus on

quality, as well as the intricate embroidery as well

as the vibrant prints attract many buyers who

appreciate art and culture and have an eye for it.

Source: (www.shiatzychen.com)

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9. Indian Designer with a similar design

philosophy as Shiatzy Chen:

Ritu Kumar: Ritu Kumar being one of India’s

foremost designers, was born in 1944 and has a

background in an art history and museology. Ritu has a

unique style of her own, which reflects the traditional

art and crafts of India and blending it with the

contemporary handwriting. She has brought new

horizons into the fashion and craft industry of India.

She had a humble start, with four hand block printers,

and two tables in a village near Kolkatta forty years

ago, and was the first to introduce the “boutique

culture” in India some 4 decades ago. She is also one of

the first Indian Designers who were catalytic in bringing the contemporary fashion into the

then conservative Indian market, and bridging the gap making India open its doors to the

contemporary and western fashion. Ritu’s forte lies in the traditional textiles as well as the

embroideries and crafts of India and amalgamating it in the right amount to come up with

contemporary silhouettes and cuts to fit the global target market. (www.ritukumar.com)

Ritu Kumar’s Collections:

Source: (indogenius.com)

Source: Ritu Kumar (www.gdayindia.com.au)

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Observation: If the Design Philosophies of Shiatzy Chen’s Creative Head- Wang Chen Tsai-

Hsia and Indian Designer Ritu Kumar are compared, one can find many similarities in them.

The efficient use of the Traditional craft and embroideries with modern styles and silhouettes

are the forte of both these designers. Although from different ethnicities, but these designers

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have emphasized more on the traditional and ethnic side of design and have not

underestimated its demand in the western market. Both Wang Chen Tsai-Hsia and Ritu

Kumar belong to the same generation, probably that is the reason they both still have the

traditional thinking following them in this globalized world. They have carried all the way

from the 40s and the 50s their traditional techniques and have amalgamated in this modern

era of western influences.

10. Suggestions and recommendations for this design house to achieve further

commercial success: (3 recommendations)

Recommendation 1: Many fashion enthusiasts wouldn’t have even herd if Shiatzy Chen,

therefore one of the suggestion would be a strong advertising campaign. As the brand is

spreading internationally and has become familiar with celebrities, it should also advertise

itself as an international fashion brand- label to spread across other parts of the globe. It

should target the western celebrities, like- models and Hollywood celebs, and make their

brand globally known through red carpet gowns and film festivals.

Recommendation 2: Rather than just being a Chinese centred brand or concentrating just on

certain demographics, Shiatzy Chen could advertise more ethnocentrically or maybe it can

make its ad campaigns involving people from different races and ethnicities wearing a

Chinese-western design, and the world is seen as experimenting and mingling with different

cultures. This would bring more awareness of the brand to other ethnicities across the world

and just setting up an office in other fashion capitals in the world would help them get more

business from around the world.

Recommendation 3: Shiatzy Chen has a different opinion about spreading its business across

the globe, according to Harry Wang, CEO, the brand plans to concentrate and grow in the

Asian market for now. (Amed, 2011) Asia market is still developing its taste for designer

wear and there are only certain markets where a brand like Shiatzy Chen would get its value.

Amongst the developed markets in Asia is Japan and Singapore. If Shiatzy Chen plans to

expand it has to expand across these markets first. Japanese and Chinese cultures have some

things that are common and Taiwan has always been both the country’s debatable dispute.

Therefore, amalgamating its Chinese details with that of similar Japanese details can do the

magic. Or probably to enter the Japanese fashion market, which is quite evolved, Shiatzy

Chen will have to join hands with a Japanese brand of similar aesthetics and enter the

Japanese Fashion market.

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Conclusion:

Shiatzy Chen has been the next name in fashion and luxury since last decade. With every

show at the Paris fashion week it is marking its presence in the global market and making a

strong appeal for oriental details and western cuts. It is a combination of the intricate and

heavy Chinese and the sexy and simple western look. It has emerged from the strong Chinese

and Taiwan influence and a clear motive to stand by it making it the USP of its collections.

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