Professional Diploma in Jewellery Design Do You Speak ...
Transcript of Professional Diploma in Jewellery Design Do You Speak ...
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Contents
3 Introduction
3 Lesson outcomes
3 The jewellery language
8 Material matters
12 Message of jewellery
14 Conclusion
15 References
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Introduction Like the words of Elizabeth Taylor, ‘Jewellery has the power to be that one little thing that makes you feel unique’.
Jewellery design is a practical process of expression. As a jewellery designer, you must realise and understand how to
create jewellery pieces that tell a story. There is an emotional aspect attached to wearing jewellery. Before we can create
our own story, we need to learn the language of jewellery first, the jargon in the trade.
The quote that I would like to share with you today is from a French photographer, illustrator, author and best known for
her fashion blog, Garance Doré and she said this: ‘Jewellery is a very personal thing… It should tell a story about the
person who’s wearing it.’
And that is what we will be looking at today – the visual language and the ability of jewellery as a personal message.
The jewellery language The wonderland of jewellery has so many magical journeys to explore. I invite you to come along with me and get lost
here, while I enchant you with the beautiful vocabulary of jewellery.
Type of rings We will start with the classic engagement rings:
Solitaire
The solitaire ring is the top choice for a classic engagement ring. It is a ring with a single setting that makes the focus point,
predominantly set with a diamond.
Trilogy
The trilogy ring consists of a ring with 3 stones in a setting: the centre stone normally being larger than the side stones.
Solitaire with accent stones
This is an update on the solitaire. This ring has a single setting, however with smaller stones being set on the shank.
Lesson outcomes By the end of this lesson, you should be able to:
• Explore the different types of jewellery
• Define the materials used in jewellery
• Explore symbolic and abstract jewellery
Practical lesson outcome.
Express yourself with a statement piece
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Split shank
The split shank ring also has a single setting, however, the shank leading into the setting has been split. The shank can be
plain or have small stones set in the shank.
Split twist shank
A beautiful variation of the split shank is the split-twist shank. The ring also has a single setting, but where the ring splits,
the 2 bands are twisted, creating a split twist.
Cross-over shank (or also known as the bypass ring)
Think of this ring as a single sheet of metal that has been forged to connect at the top. However, instead of connecting it in
a straight line, the two ends go passed each other and is then connected with a stone setting.
Halo
The halo ring has a centre stone setting, with a halo of diamonds surrounding the stone. The shank can be plain or have
smalls stones set. Also, the halo can be single, double, or triple. (Small stones are either set in pave or micro-set – more on
setting types in M2.)
Cluster
Not to be mistaken with the classic halo ring. The cluster ring has a centre stone, surrounded by a halo of stones, however,
these stones are claw set and the outside claws extend down towards the bottom to meet the shank.
Flower halo
The flower halo is a fancy variation of the classic halo ring. The designer will create a flower shape surrounding the centre
stone.
Cocktail rings
We simply cannot talk about rings without mentioning cocktail rings. Just look at these larger-than-life rings from
Boucheron, Pouted and Chopard.
Defining a cocktail ring sounds straightforward but it has a legacy behind it. A cocktail ring is an excessively bulky ring that
is mostly worn at cocktail parties. Even though cocktail parties are less common these days, cocktail rings are still very
popular for formal occasions like award shows and movie premiers.
Next, we have wedding bands.
Plain
Our first example is the classic, plain wedding band.
Eternity
Eternity rings are traditionally set with the same size stones around the finger. It can either be a full eternity or half
eternity.
Twisted
The twisted bands are either made with twisted round wire or it can even be made with square wires with diamonds set in
the metal.
Fitted bands
To alleviate the gap between the engagement ring and the wedding band, a couple could opt for either the fitted curved or
the fitted triangular band.
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Faceted
Then we have the faceted bands. These are an excellent choice if you want to steer away from the normal style of wedding
bands. You can either have the symmetrical geometric look or go with an asymmetrical organic look.
Fancy bands
We then get another category, the fancy bands. These can be worn as a wedding band but are mostly worn as a dress ring.
In this category, you will see a lot of patterns, a lot of swirl designs and lastly a personal favourite, the stacking rings.
Engraved wedding bands
In my opinion, there is no other wedding band quite as special as a hand-engraved band. Just look at these beautiful
examples from Green Lake Jewelry, from Joseph Jewelry and another example from Green Lake Jewelry.
Gent’s bands
The most common rings for men include wedding bands, a signet ring, and the spinner/fidget ring.
Types of earrings, pendants, and necklaces Classic studs
The classic studs are set with one stone with a pin at the back.
Halo studs
The halo studs have a centre stone setting, with a halo of diamonds surrounding the stone.
Ear climbers
Ear climbers are hooked into the ear and then rotated to portray the design as climbing up the earlobe.
Drop
Drop earrings are generally quite simple pieces and classified as a drop earring if the bottom part drops just below the
earlobe.
Dangly
Dangly earrings have parts that hang a lot lower than a drop earring and swings (or dangle if you will) from side to side.
Chandelier
Chandelier earrings derive its name from the chandelier light fixtures. It is shimmering and has a base structure at the top,
with multiple layers of stones and/or metal symbols hanging from the base.
Hoop vs. Huggies
To distinguish between the hoop and the huggie earrings, I would like to refer to the hoop examples from Akira and the
huggie example from Gabriel & Co. Hoop earrings form an open-ended earing that is attached to a pin, whereas the huggie
earrings have a hinge mechanism towards the bottom centre point. Huggie earrings quite literally hug the earlobe.
Now we will have a look at the different types of pendants.
Drop
A drop pendant is a simple pendant that hangs from a chain. The pendant can be connected to the bail via a link or directly
connected to the bail.
Fixed
A fixed pendant has 2 links that connect the chain directly without the use of a bail.
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Slider
Another option to not use a bail is to create a slider. The pendant has an opening on the side for the chain to go through.
Amulet
An amulet is used to provide protection. Religious symbols are also used as an amulet. They are often used not just as
pendants but displayed in homes to protect their family and livestock.
Talisman
A talisman is believed to provide power and energy. It is believed that these pendants give positive energy to the one who
wears it. Talismans are also believed to enhance personal power.
Locket
A locket is a small ornamental case and is used to hold things of sentimental value like a photo.
Necklaces
Can you guess what the earliest type of necklaces was made of? Let me give you a little more background on necklaces.
Necklaces were part of men and women’s dress code during the Middle Ages and became the primary piece of jewellery in
the late Gothic and early Renaissance periods. Necklaces only became a feminine item in the 18th century when it was
worn together with a matching set of jewellery such as earrings, pendants, bracelets, or tiara.
The earliest types of necklaces were made from organic materials such as shells, teeth, and bone beads. Then coral was
introduced to display the family’s wealth and usually worn during courting rituals or at weddings.
Bib
A bib necklace has a broad front section and covers a big part of the chest.
Choker
A choker is a close-fitting necklace worn snug around the neck.
Collar
A collar necklace sits flush against the skin and rests directly above the collarbone, sitting high on the neckline.
Lariat
A lariat necklace is a longer type of necklace usually with chain and does not have any clasps or closures at the back. Then
the front ends of the chains normally have decorative objects like a drop setting.
Opera
How gorgeous is this opera necklace from De Grisogono? An opera necklace usually sits on the breastbone. They can be
longer than the usual necklace and mostly worn to formal occasions. Other examples are like draping a variety of long
necklaces.
Princess
A princess necklace looks very similar to a choker’s style; however, it will rest below the collarbone.
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Types of bracelets, bangles, crowns and brooches Next, we have bracelets.
The most popular form of bracelets is the charm bracelets. The Pandora charm bracelets are probably the most popular
form of charm bracelets.
Chain
Chain bracelets has a single decorative part connected with chain and a clasp. Depending on the design, there can be
multiple decorative parts too.
Tennis
A tennis bracelet is a flexible bracelet with multiple stones interlinked. There is movement between the links, it is not
static.
Omega
The omega bracelets are sailing bracelets. They are made from moulded rubber or braided nylon and they are super
casual, colourful and easy to wear.
Next, we have bangles.
Standard
The standard bangle is a solid, rigid shape bangle. It has no clasp or opening
Cuff
The cuff bangle on the other hand is an open-ended bangle, that does not close on the wrist and simply just rests on the
wrist.
Designer
The designer bangles are created with specific themes or motifs and generally has some form of a hinge mechanism.
Let us have a look at the most popular type of crowns. But first… If you were royal, what would you like your crown to look
like?
The standard crown creates a full circle with a fabric cap inside the circle and is enclosed by arches at the top. Let us look
at some variations of the crown.
Coronet
The coronet is a small crown worn by the other members of the royal family or British nobility. Each design will identify the
wearer’s rank.
Diadem
The diadem also forms a full circle, but it is not closed at the top. It derives from the headbands worn by ancient Greeks
and Romans. Since then, they have become a lot more elaborate.
Tiara
A tiara creates a semi-circle and is open at the back. Tiaras are worn by the nobility and other women at formal events
where the royal family is present.
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Our final type of jewellery we will look at today are brooches.
Bar
A bar brooch has a single bar with single or multiple motifs. These are generally quite simple brooches.
Pendant
The pendant brooch is a versatile jewellery item as it can be worn as a brooch or the pendant can be removed to be worn
on a chain.
Portrait
The portrait brooch consists of a frame with a cameo. A cameo is the result of a material that has been carved with a raised
relief, often depicting a profile of a face or a mythical creature. They are mostly carved from shell, coral, stone, lave or
glass.
Foliate
I think this example from Bonhams depicts exactly what a foliate brooch is. This type of brooch is an elaborate design
covered with decorations of leaf and flower motifs.
Material Matters Now that we are all familiar with the various types of jewellery, let us focus on the materials used to make jewellery. Before
we can step into the designer’s shoes, it is essential to know the materials used to make jewellery.
Precious metals Precious metals used in jewellery include:
Platinum
Because platinum is so rare, it is one of the most valuable metals. Only a few hundred tons of platinum are mined annually
because it is so difficult to find. The first time it was used in jewellery was in the 16th century among pre-Columbian South
Americans. Other than in jewellery, platinum is also used in the automotive, electronics and medical industries. Another
factor that makes it precious is because Platinum is highly resistant to corrosion.
Gold
Our best known of the precious metals is gold. Gold has been renowned as a metal of high value and a standard form of
currency throughout human history. Gold is so high in demand that it is being mined at a faster rate than it can be
replaced. Other than jewellery, gold is also used in the electronics, medicine, and engineering industries. We get yellow
gold, white gold, and rose gold.
Silver
Even though white gold has a much higher value than silver due to its high lustre and malleability, silver is a valued metal
because of its use in various industries like electronics and technology.
Palladium
Palladium is a very rare metal, indeed. It was only discovered in 1803, so it does not have a long history like gold and silver.
Its main uses are industrial, particularly in the automotive industry, where it is used in building catalytic converters. It is
also used in medicine and electronics.
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Ruthenium
One of the most obscure metals used to make jewellery is ruthenium. Ruthenium is mixed with platinum or palladium to
form an alloy. To give you an example, an alloy of platinum with just 5% ruthenium is much harder than just the platinum
alone.
Do not worry if you are not sure about the term alloy. We will discuss this in the upcoming lessons.
Stones Stones have been worn in jewellery since prehistoric time. Their rarity and colour play a major role in adding gemstones to
jewellery and usually becomes the dominant attribute of a piece.
Stones are raw minerals taken from the earth and after the process of cutting and polishing, the finest and rarest of them
are what we call gems. Stones are classified as precious or semi-precious.
Precious stones
We will start with the precious stones. I will just do a quick introduction to these stones as we will take an in-depth look at
stones in the upcoming modules.
Stones are classified as precious according to their quality, rarity, and origin.
Our first precious stone is the well sought-after stone, the diamond.
We have:
• White diamonds
• Yellow diamonds
• Pink diamonds
• Green diamonds
• Blue diamonds
• Red diamonds
Then, we have 3 more stones that belong to the precious stone family.
We have
• Emerald
• Ruby
• Sapphire
Pearls
I love pearls! And like Coco Chanel said – “A woman needs ropes and ropes of pearls” I second her opinion!
Did you know that pearls are also sometimes classified as a precious stone? Technically speaking, a pearl is not a stone,
but as holds a cherished place in jewellery, it is therefore often classified as precious.
Pearls are made by marine oysters and freshwater mussels as a natural defence against an irritant such as a parasite
entering their shell to damage their fragile body.
Semi-precious stones
We have many stones used in jewellery that are classified as semi-precious. Here are some of the most popular semi-
precious stones used in jewellery:
• Amethyst
• Aquamarine
• Alexandrite
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• Chrysoberyl
• Lapis Lazuli
• Moonstone
• Opal
• Peridot
• Topaz
• Tourmaline
• Turquoise
• Zircon
Then we get semi-precious stones that appear less frequently in jewellery, but worth mentioning:
• Agate
• Azurite
• Bloodstone
• Carnelian
• Coral
• Chrysoprase
• Garnet
• Jade
• Kunzite
• Malachite
Other material
Wire - Mary Lee Hu
Creating jewellery with wire takes phenomenal craftsmanship. Creating structures with wire is an extraordinary skill.
For my first example of wire jewellery, I would like to introduce a jewellery artist Mary Lee Hu.
Mary Lee Hu has an exquisite application of line and patterns in her creations. She uses basketry techniques of twining to
create three-dimensional forms. Her pieces create a beautiful sense of movement and her designs respond to the contours
of the body.
Wire - Stuart Golder
For my next example of wire jewellery, I would like to introduce one of my favourite jewellery artists – Stuart Golder. His
name says it all; he is golder than gold!
He has been adapting textile techniques in metal for almost 50 years. He started weaving wire in the 1970s.
Just look at the intricate patterns he creates. You can just see the love for his artistry coming through. Aren’t they
gorgeous?
Enamel
Master-crafted enamel jewellery is a work of art. With their vibrant colour and lustre, one simply cannot deny its beauty.
Just look at these beautiful examples from Wellendorf, Faberge and Rene Lalique.
Enamel is a decorative coating applied to metal. The process starts by applying a powder onto a piece of jewellery. Once it
is placed in an enamel kiln, the powder is fused to the metal, creating beautiful works of art.
We will be going into all the different enamel techniques in module 2 – I hope to see you there.
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Resin
An alternative technique to add colour to jewellery can be done with the use of resin.
Here are some examples of resin jewellery. Epoxy jewellery resin can be translucent or opaque depending on the desired
look. It comes in 2 parts, the resin, and the hardener. Once the 2 parts have been mixed, a chemical reaction occurs,
changing the liquid to a solid, this refers to the curing process.
You can get super creative by adding your own inclusions like fabric, a picture, glitter, crystals, gold foil – absolutely
anything you want.
Unconventional material Remember we spoke about the different types of designers in lesson 1? To refresh your memory, one of the types of
designers I mentioned was the art jewellery designer. They are contemporary artists, and they use unconventional
material as a creative expression. Let us have a look at some examples of materials they use.
Wood
Have you ever seen jewellery that has been made of wood?
Here are some of my favourite artists:
Natasha wood creates jewellery with wooden inlays. My secret woods create jewellery with wood and resin – their pieces
are gorgeous. Lastly, we have Lexi Daly. She creates sculptural jewellery pieces by recycling the wooden spoons used to
stir coffee.
Plastic & acrylic
These artists have found their unique expression by creating jewellery with plastic and acrylic. Examples include Lazerian,
Alida Alic and Sue Gregor.
Fabric
Have you ever held fabric in your hand and thought “these textures would be amazing for jewellery?”
I love how Katherine Wardropper, Marjorie Schick and Yong Joo Kim have taken fabric and created sculptural jewellery
that is truly one-of-a-kind.
Paper
Another unusual use of material in jewellery is paper. Some of the most noteworthy artists are Gera Noemi, Bunch of Berry
and Angela O'Kelly.
Polypropylene
Next, we have the use of polypropylene. I love how Anoush Waddington, Caroline Moiret and Rachel McNight creates truly
fun, exciting, and different than the traditional type of jewellery.
Rubber
Lastly, we have artists who use rubber.
Stephanie Bila creates phenomenal body jeweller, along with Thea Tolsma and Margaret Nowak who all explore jewellery
beyond its traditional convention.
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Message of jewellery Wearing jewellery is a sincere approach to portraying who we are and what we value as important to us. Jewellery allows
us to creatively express ourselves without using any words.
Jewellery artists often push the boundaries with their unconventional use of material that comments on social, cultural, or
political matters. Even with conventional materials, jewellery remains one of the most effective mediums of cultural
communication.
Jewellery as a message Regardless of how a designer applies the different elements and principles in their composition of the final design,
messages are being sent through these designs. Designers should be aware of the message or story they wish to convey
with an idea of the expected reaction from the viewer.
With that being said, I would like to point out that the viewer’s interpretation involves two reactions:
• The first reaction stems from knowledge and background.
• The second reaction is emotional
One of the most important responsibilities as a designer is to develop their visual vocabulary. As a jewellery designer, you
need to identify the visual message or story and then incorporate that in your design process.
I would like to share a quote with you from Nicholas Hayek. He analyzes Swatch market ads. He stated the following when
talking about watches:
‘We are not just offering people a style. We are offering them a message. This is an absolutely, critical point. Fashion is
about image. Emotional products are about message – a strong, exciting, distinct, authentic message that tells people who
you are and why you do what you do.’
Even though he is talking about watches, I could not have said it better myself with regards to jewellery.
Symbols & motifs There are different methods for the implementation of communication in jewellery. Jewellery designs have the ability of
expression through symbols and motifs. This is one of the most used applications in the design process as it is generally a
symbol that is important to the designer. When applied successfully, the symbols and motifs will resonate with the wearer
as well as the viewer.
Let us have a look at some examples.
Hearts:
One of the commonly used symbols in jewellery is the heart. It is a symbol of love, compassion, and affection.
What do you think is the most common flower used in jewellery?
Flowers:
Before we get to the answer, let us take a look at some examples of flower jewellery.
The use of flowers is frequently used in jewellery items. Each flower has its own meaning, so the list is too long to go
through each flower, but here are a few examples of the use of flowers and their meaning.
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Calla lily
The calla lily symbolises purity, holiness, and faithfulness. The calla lily was named after the Greek word for beautiful. Just
a fun fact, the calla lily is the 6th wedding anniversary flower, symbolising the beauty of a couple’s love. So, keep that in
mind if you ever must design a 6th wedding anniversary gift.
Orchid
The orchid symbolises admiration, innocence, and grace. The orchid is derived from the Greek word ‘orkhis’. The pink
orchid is the traditional flower for a couple’s 14th and 25th wedding anniversary. In China, orchids are regarded as emblems
of integrity, elegance, and friendship.
Tulip
The tulip symbolises deep love and devotion. The tulip’s name comes from the Persian word for turban because in full
bloom tulips have a turban-like shape. Tulips commonly mean perfect love. Tulips are the flower for the 11th wedding
anniversary as a symbol of devotion and love.
Birds of paradise
The birds of paradise symbolise joy, freedom, and paradise. It represents the idea of paradise on earth. It originates from
South Africa, where it is also nicknamed the Crane flower or more commonly known by its scientific name, Strelitzia. It is
also the official flower for the 9th wedding anniversary.
Back to my question of the most common flower used in jewellery – The rose of course! They are most associated with
love, passion, and romance.
A fun exercise if you are up for it at the end of all the modules, or anytime you want – if you have received flowers as a gift,
you can press the petals in books. Then take a silver frame, place the petal at the bottom and pour resin over it, then leave
it to cure. You can preserve the flower gift forever. If you do not have a silver frame, improvise, and take a soft-drink bottle
cap or anything bigger lying around! You can even use a silicone ice tray. Drill a hole through at the top and hang your
pendant on a string. How cool?!
Next, we will look at the birds.
Flamingo
How gorgeous is this flamingo brooch from Cartier? The flamingo symbolises vibrance, to be outgoing and well-balanced.
Phoenix
The phoenix is a mythological bird, and this example is the ‘Phoenix in flight’ from Van Cleef & Arpels. The phoenix
symbolises eternity, strength, and renewal.
Peacock
This example of a peacock brooch is from Graff Diamonds. The peacock symbolises vision, self-expression and awakening.
Next, we have a variety of symbols.
Butterfly
The example is the ‘Butterfly Silhouette’ from Graff Diamonds. The butterfly symbolises beauty and elegance.
Snake
The example is the ‘Serpent’ bracelet from Bulgari. The snake symbolises spiritual guidance, rebirth, and transformation.
Panther
The example is the ‘Panther’ ring from Cartier. Symbolises courage, valour and power.
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The figure 8
The example is from Tiffany & Co. The figure 8 symbolises eternity.
Anchor
The example is from Tiffany & Co. The anchor symbolises Safety, stability, eternal love and fidelity.
Horseshoe
The example is from Tiffany & Co. The horseshoe symbolises good luck and protection.
Other examples also include religion. A variety of symbols are used in different religions for example Catholic, Christianity,
Islamic, Buddhism, Judaism just to name a few.
There are loads more examples of symbols and motifs – I wish we had more time to go through all of them. They are a
great use of communication through jewellery.
Communication through jewellery Then we get statement jewellery. The word defines itself; through its boldness, it makes a statement.
Here are the most important factors in statement jewellery:
Shape
We can thank the influence of punk rock. Ever seen people using mixed-and-matched safety pins or braided chains in a
variety of sizes/colours. It sounds like a hot mess; however, it can be a visual feast. Abstract shapes are the way to go!
Colour
It is all about prominence! Bright and colourful gems are a great choice, especially when they are contrasting colours.
Fun tip: You can use this website www.color.adobe.com You can explore colour trends, colour themes or even create your
own colours!
Size
Anything larger than the norm can be classified as a statement piece. The bigger, the better! In this category, designers will
often push the boundaries of the scale principle – remember we spoke about scale in lesson 1. In this category, you will
often see jewellery for example rings that covers a significant part of the finger or even the hand.
Conclusion As an artist, there should be meaning to your jewellery. It is your responsibility to figure out what you want to say. Do not
design just for the sake of it. Design from the heart. People long for ‘the why’, something that resonates with them. When
you give meaning to your creations, not only will you leave a legacy behind, but you also add meaning and value to your
community.
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17 www.shawacademy.com
PROFESSIONAL DIPLOMA IN COURSE NAME
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