7/23/2019 Process Flow of Cutting and Cutting equipment

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/process-flow-of-cutting-and-cutting-equipment 1/8

Process Sequence of Cutting Section | Flow Chart ofCutting During Garment Manufacturing

Print PDF 

Cutting section is one of the most important section for manufacturing garments in Garments

Factory.There is a process or sequence which is strictly followed in the cutting section of a

garment manufacturing industry.

Process Sequence in Cutting Room:

Marker Making

↓

Faric !preading

↓

Placing Marker Paper on to the "ay↓

Faric Cutting

↓

#umering

↓

$%%& checking ' Parts (eplacing if needed.

↓

!horting ' )undling

↓

!ewing*+ssemlingOperation of Cutting During Garments Manufacturing are given elow in !etails:

Mar"er Ma"ing:The measuring department determines the faric yardage needed for each style

and si,e of garment. Computer  software helps the technicians create the optimum

faric layout to suggest so faric can e used efficiently. Markers- made in

accordance to the patterns are attached to the faric with the help of adhesie

stripping or staples. Markers are laid in such a way so that minimum possile faric

gets wasted during cutting operation. +fter marking the garment manufacturer will

get the idea of how much faric he has to order in adance for the construction of garments. Therefore careful e/ecution is important in this step.Computer marking is

done on specialli,ed softwares. 0n computeri,ed marking there is no need of large

paper sheets for calculating the yardage- in fact- mathematical calculations are made

instead to know how much faric is required.

Faric Sprea!ing:1ith the help of spreading machines- faric is stacked on one another in reaches or 

lays that may go oer $%% ft 23%.4 m5 long and hundreds of plies 2faric pieces5 thick.

Cutting:

7/23/2019 Process Flow of Cutting and Cutting equipment

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/process-flow-of-cutting-and-cutting-equipment 2/8

The faric is then cut with the help of cloth cutting machines suitale for the type of 

the cloth. These can e and cutters haing similar work method like that of and

saws6 cutters haing rotary lades6 machines haing reciprocal lades which saw up

and down6 die clickers similar to die or punch press6 or computeri,ed machines that

use either lades or laser eams to cut the faric in desired shapes.

Sorting#$un!ling:The sorter sorts the patterns according to si,e and design and makes undles of 

them. This step requires much precision ecause making undles of mismatched

patterns can create seere prolems. 7n each undle there are specifications of the

style si,e and the marker too is attached with it.

Sewing#%ssemling:The sorted undles of farics are now ready to e stitched. "arge garment

manufacturers hae their own sewing units other use to gie the farics on contract

to other contractors. !titching in8house is preferale ecause one can maintain

quality control during the processing. 7n the other hand if contractors are hired

keeping eye on quality is difficult unless the contactor is one who precisely controls

the process.

There are what is called sewing stations for sewing different parts of the cut pieces.

0n this workplace- there are many operators who perform a single operation. 7ne

operator may make only straight seams- while another may make sleee insets. 9et

another two operators can sew the waist seams- and make uttonholes. :arious

industrial sewing machines too hae different types of stitches that they can make.

These machines also hae different configuration of the frame. !ome machines work

sequentially and feed their finished step directly into the ne/t machine- while the

gang machines hae multiple machines performing the same operation superised

y a single operator. +ll these factors decide what parts of a garment can e sewn at

that station. Finally- the sewn parts of the garment- such as sleees or pant legs- are

assemled together to gie the final form to the clothing.

MARKER MAKING (Cutting Part 2)

"earn +pparel Merchandising "earn Fashion Designing.

Introduction

For industrial garments preparation, marker making is a er! important "#apter $or #ig#est usage o$ 

$a%ri" and $or lo&est &astage o$ $a%ri"'

#is is a pro"ess &#i"# is per$ormed to dra& t#e pattern pie"es on t#e $a%ri" %e$ore "utting' #is

ma! %e done %! dra&ing t#e pattern pie"es on t#e $a%ri" dire"tl! or %! dra&ing t#e pattern pie"es

on a t#in marker paper and t#en pla"ement t#e paper onto t#e $a%ri" la!' o, &e "an de$ine t#e

marker as %ello&'

7/23/2019 Process Flow of Cutting and Cutting equipment

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/process-flow-of-cutting-and-cutting-equipment 3/8

Marker is a t#in paper &#i"# "ontains all ne"essar! pattern pie"es $or all si*es $or a parti"ular st!le

o$ garments in su"# a &a! t#at, $a%ri" &astage &ould %e least' #e representation or dra&ing o$

t#e arrangement o$ identi$ied garment pattern releant to t#e "utting o$ a %at"# material' #e

marker is pla"ed on t#e material and proides guideline $or "utting' Marker ma! %e on $a%ri" or

#eld in"omputer data $iles' Marker &idt# is e+ual to t#e minimum $a%ri" &idt# and its lengt#

depends on t#e no o$ pattern si*es t#at &ill %e dra&n'

Preparations of Marker Making

e$ore t#e marker making, some preparator! pro"esses &ould %e $ollo&ed' #e pro"esses are

dis"ussed ago (In preparator! pro"esses "#apter)' -it#out t#ose, some ot#ers preparations are

• Marking Grain .ine / e$ore marker making, t#e grain line o$ pattern and $a%ri" must %e

marked'

• Fa%ri" Measurement / e$ore marker planning, t#e $a%ri" must %e measured "are$ull!'

e"ause, marker &idt# is releant to t#e minimum $a%ri" &idt#'• Fa%ri" Faults / Fa%ri" $aults &ould %e also under "onsideration' In a $a%ri" roll, &#ere an!

$aults $ound, t#at points must %e aoided $or +ualit! produ"tion and to least t#e $a%ri" &astage'

• Cutting a%le / Marker planner s#ould "onsider t#e "utting ta%le lengt# %e$ore making

marker' Marker lengt# must %e less t#an t#e "utting ta%le lengt#'

Constraints of Marker Making

0uring marker making, t#e &ork o$ t#e marker planner is su%1e"ted to a num%er o$ "onstraints'

#ese relate to

i' #e nature o$ t#e $a%ri" and t#e desired result in t#e $inis#ed garment'

ii' #e re+uirements o$ +ualit! in "utting'

iii' #e re+uirements o$ produ"tion planning'

The nature of the fabric and the desired result in the finished garment

• Pattern alignment in relation to t#e grain o$ t#e $a%ri"

Pattern pie"es normall! "arr! a grain line' -#en pattern pie"es are laid do&n t#e pie"e o$ "lot#,

t#e grain line s#ould lie parallel to t#e line o$ t#e &arp in a &oen $a%ri" or t#e &ales in a knitted

$a%ri"' -#ere pattern pie"es are laid a"ross t#e pie"e, t#e grain line s#ould lie parallel to t#e &e$t

or "ourse dire"tion' I$ t#e marker planner la!s do&n a pattern outside t#e stated rules $or grainlines, t#en t#e $inis#ed garment &ill not #ang and drape "orre"tl! &#en &orn' #is re+uirement to

$ollo& t#e grain lines restri"ts t#e $reedom o$ t#e marker planner in "#oosing #o& to la! t#e

patterns in t#e marker'

• !mmetr! or As!mmetr!

Man! $a%ri"s "an %e turned round (t#roug# 34') and retain t#e same appearan"e are "alled

s!mmetri"al' #e! re+uire no spe"ial attention during marker making'

As!mmetri"al $a%ri"s are t#ose &#i"# are turned (t#roug# 34') and do not retain t#e same

appearan"e' E5amples o$ su"# $a%ri"s are pile &#i"# is %rus#ed in one dire"tion and &#i"# s#o&di$$erent re$le"tion o$ lig#t' #e marker s#ould %e planned in su"# a &a! t#at it is in a""ordan"e

7/23/2019 Process Flow of Cutting and Cutting equipment

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/process-flow-of-cutting-and-cutting-equipment 4/8

&it# s!mmetr!, as!mmetr! o$ t#e $a%ri"' All pattern pie"es o$ a garment s#ould %e along t#e same

dire"tion &#en laid do&n on a s!mmetri"al $a%ri"'

• 0esign "#ara"teristi"s o$ t#e $inis#ed garments

I$ a erti"al stripe does not s#o& a "omplete mirror image repeat, t#e rig#t and le$t sides o$ a

garment ma! %e mirror images o$ ea"# ot#er' In t#is "ase, a pattern s#ould %e pla"ed on "#e"ks in

su"# a &a! t#at t#e design mat"#es &#en se&ing up' 0uring marker planning, a marker maker must

#ae to t#ink a%out mat"#ing t#e "#e"ks and stripes in a garment' 6is $reedom is restri"ted #ere'

o I t#ink it78s a "onstraints $or a marker maker'

The Requirements of Quality in Cutting

• For ma1orit! o$ "utting situations &#ere a kni$e %lade is used, t#e pla"ements o$ t#e

pattern pie"es in t#e marker must gie $reedom o$ kni$e moement' A %lade, &#i"# #as &idt#,"annot turn a per$e"t rig#t angle in t#e middle o$ pattern pie"e and spa"e must al&a!s %e allo&ed$or a kni$e to turn su"# "orners' #e amount o$ spa"e depends on t#e a"tual "utting met#odemplo!ed'

• Pattern "ount "#e"k t#at t#e "omplete menu o$ pattern #as %een in"luded'

• Corre"t la%eling o$ "ut garments parts is essential to identi$! "orre"tl! t#e garment parts

$or &#ole garment si*es' It is t#e responsi%ilit! o$ t#e marker planner to "ode eer! pattern pie"es&it# its si*es as t#e marker is planned'

The Requirements of Production Planning

-#en an order pla"ed $or a +uantit! o$ garments, normall! spe"i$ies a +uantit! o$ ea"# si*e and

"olour' I$ t#e se&ing room re+uires t#e "ut &ork urgentl!, t#e marker ma! make t&o markers'

' #ort marker and

2' .ong marker'

• For long marker, it "an %e made a""ording to t#e si*e proportion and di$$erent si*es' #is

pro"ess is er! mu"# e$$i"ient and takes more time and in"reased s#ade ariation'

• For s#ort marker and $or t#e parti"ular order t&o marker "an %e made, t#is pro"ess is less

e$$i"ient %ut takes less time and more produ"tion and small "utting ta%le'

• For "omple5 garments long markers generall! o$$er more opportunities $or saings t#an do

s#ort ones'

• #e more si*es t#at in"luded in a marker, t#e greater are t#e s"ope $or $a%ri" saings'

Greater $a%ri" saings and a$ter lo&er total "ost &ould normall! result, $rom "utting a stepped la!

&it# paper markers on top'

6o&eer, t#oug# $or greater e$$i"ien"!, a marker maker needs opportunit! to &ork &it# $reedom,

%ut $or maintaining proper +ualit! some "riteria must %e $ollo&ed' #at is &#! t#ere are some

"onstraints o$ marker making'

Methods of Marker Making

7/23/2019 Process Flow of Cutting and Cutting equipment

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/process-flow-of-cutting-and-cutting-equipment 5/8

#ere are t&o met#ods o$ marker making'

i. Manual method.

ii. Computerized method.

6ere marker is produ"ed in t&o &a!s'

' Marker dra&n dire"tl! on $a%ri" la!'

2' Marker dra&n on marker paper'

Marker dran directly on fabric lay

#is is t#e oldest and mostl! used met#od $or marker making' In t#is pro"esses $a%ri" is spreaded

on "utting ta%le and setting up all pattern pie"es dire"tl! on to t#e $a%ri"' Marking is done %!

"#alk, pen"il or pen' In order o$ t#is met#od, needs more time and e5perien"e'

Marker dran on marker paper

In t#is pro"ess marker is made on marker paper' All t#e pattern pie"es are laid on a t#in marker

paper and dra&n it' #en t#e marker paper in pla"ed on $a%ri" la! and used $or $a%ri" "utting'

e$ore planning t#e marker, $a%ri" lengt# and &idt# must %e taken under "onsideration'

Marker dire"tl! on $a%ri" Marker on a t#in paper

7/23/2019 Process Flow of Cutting and Cutting equipment

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/process-flow-of-cutting-and-cutting-equipment 6/8

#e adantages o$ "omputeri*ed met#od are gien %ello& "omparing &it# t#e manual met#od'

!d"antages

• More suita%le $or large s"ale produ"tion t#an t#e manual met#od'

• Marker e$$i"ien"! is #ig#er t#an manual'

• .east &astage o$ $a%ri"'

• .o& produ"tion "ost'

• .o& la%our "ost'

• I$ re+uired, print out o$ t#e marker "ould %e got'

• Grading o$ t#e pattern "ould %e done automati"all!'

• Fe& time "onsumption'

• Marker "an %e prepared +ui"kl! t#an manual'

#isad"antages

• Initial inestment is #ig#er t#an manual'

• More skilled operator is needed t#an manual'

6o&eer, eer!t#ing #as its positie and negatie sides' ut in "omparison, t#e adantages o$

"omputeri*ed marker are more t#an t#e manual' It in"reases t#e e$$i"ien"!, &orka%ilit! and

7/23/2019 Process Flow of Cutting and Cutting equipment

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/process-flow-of-cutting-and-cutting-equipment 7/8

produ"tion o$ t#e $a"tor!' It saes alua%le time and leasts $a%ri" &astage' #us saes mone! too'

Moreoer it attra"ts %u!ers &it# its modern $a"ilities'.

Cutting

.earn Apparel Mer"#andising .earn Fas#ion 0esigning'

Cutting se"tion is t#e most important se"tion o$ Garments' From m! t#is post !ou &ill learn t#at,

#o& t#e "utting (Knit) se"tion &orks' Cutting se"tions per$orm t#e $ollo&ing tasks'

ϖ Fa%ri" Inspe"tion'

ϖ Fa%ri" Rela5ation'

ϖ 0i$$erent tests i'e' GM test, #rinkage test, &isting, Fastness test, Fa%ri" dia, #ed,

Consumption et"' $or +ualit! assuran"e'

ϖ Marker Making'

ϖ Fa%ri" preading'

ϖ Cutting'

ϖ orting and undling'

ϖ Cut Panel C#e"king'

ϖ Input to t#e se&ing'

$orking %lo of Cutting &ection

#e Cutting se"tion is running a""ording to t#e $ollo&ing $lo& "#art'

Finis#ed $a%ri" $rom d!eing 9 $inis#ing

:Fa%ri" inspe"tion

:Rela5ation

:est o$ GM, dia, s#ed, s#rinkage, t&isting, $astness et"'

:est "utting

:Approal

:Marker making

:Fa%ri" spreading

:Cutting

:orting (ti"ker, Num%ering)

7/23/2019 Process Flow of Cutting and Cutting equipment

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/process-flow-of-cutting-and-cutting-equipment 8/8

:undling

:Cut panel "#e"king

:Input se"tion

:end to se&ing se"tion

All t#ese tasks "an %e a""omplis#ed %! "lassi$!ing t#em into $ollo&ing main pro"esses'

Processes of cutting &ection' Preparator! pro"esses' (Read more details)

2' Marker Making' (Read more details)

;' Fa%ri" preading'

<' Cutting'

=' orting and undling'>' Cut Panel C#e"king'

?' Inputting'

A$ter re"eiing t#e $a%ri" $rom t#e d!eing and $inis#ing se"tion, t#ere are some pro"esses to

prepare t#e $a%ri" $or %ulk produ"tion' All t#ese pro"esses "om%ined "an %e "alled preparator!

pro"esses'

-#en t#e $a%ri" is read! $or %ulk produ"tion, t#en marker is made to redu"e t#e $a%ri" &astage

during "utting' A""ording to t#e marker plan, t#e $a%ri" is %eing spreaded on "utting ta%le and t#e

marker is %eing repla"ed onto t#e $a%ri" la!er'

#en "utting pro"ess is per$ormed' A$ter "utting sorting and %undling is done' #en t#e "ut $a%ri"s

are taken to t#e "ut panel "#e"k area $or "#e"king' A$ter "#e"king t#e $a%ri" is sent to t#e input

se"tion $or inputting in se&ing se"tion'