Textile Wet processing Industries ; Important problems faced by the cotton knits processing

Joint collobarative projects by CTF and PSSGL ALOK , Welspun

Introduction:It is widely recognized that India faces skill gaps on a large scale. India has a labor force of 405 million out of which only 5% has received formal vocational training. In comparison, Germany has a workforce that is 70%vocationally trained, Japan has raised that benchmark o 80% and Korea 95%. Even China has built 500,000vocational institutes compared to Indias 10,000 ITIs. In India, to fulfill the need for skilled labor, employers either end up spending a lot of resources on on-the-jobtraining or manage with sub-optimal skills. It is clearly evident that we would be left behind in the development race if the shortage of skilled man power continues. As per an estimate by Late Prof. C.KPrahlad, India will need 500 million skilled people to become a developed country in the next 15 years. Even though a number of NGOs and private organizations are working to bridge the gap, it remains huge both in terms of numbers and quality of vocational skill providers.

The textile wet processing industry is mainly developed in cotton processing where as it has poor link in processing of the other fibers mainly due to the decentralized nature of the Industry. Investment in the Indian textile industry over the spectrum of Spinning; Weaving; Knitting; Dyeing & Finishing; and Garment manufacturing sectors will amount to US $ 31 billion over the next 6 years. Over 36% of this investment will take place in the Dyeing & Finishing sector. Therefore, the need to improve Productivity in the Dyehouse is more important than in any other sectorThe large scale manufacturing and growing demand for quality performance both in the domestic and International market has lead to the cut throat competition. This has hindered the growth of the decentralized sector in India . On the other hand in the organized sector even though we have imported technology there is acute shortage skilled manpower to manage large scale quality production. There is a necessity to upgrade of skills of the personnel from workers, supervisory to managerial category.

In order to improve the value addition to all the textiles products from fibres, yarn, fabric and garment there is a need to adopt improved technology in the textile processing. As on today the industry managers are following old traditional practices in decentralized sector same practice is continued from one manager to another. Since the personnel involved in this trade is not qualified the present Technology is not adopted and practiced as per requirement in the processing of new and innovative ideas offered for various segments in the domestic and international market. Keepin in view these problems it is important to make and adopt improved technological developments in textiles processing world. At PSSGL we have state of art latest processing machineries to process yarn, knits and terry towels. The main aim of Centre for Textile function is to develop the ability of the technical person to work on the different section of the textile processing industry. Our aim is to bridge the gap between industry and education. Concept of work and learn is successfully adopted in PSSGL process house under one year In-plant training at PSSGL to give hands on exposure on the Textile wet processing machineries. Keeping this view students were asked to do small projects work which they faced in in various production units.. Projects were identified by students themselves by studying data base of production schedule for a period of 2 months in various departments in which they were made to work. 8 problems were taken by students to Alok and welspun to do the work in their plant. This paper looks at Dyehouse Productivity from a completely different angle: How can Dyehouse Productivity be improved?

What are the critical success factors?

What are the typical problem areas?

What improvements have been made in other countries?

Who is setting a lead?Industry participation in education (CTF & PSSGL MOU)

Advanced Diploma in textile Wet Processing (ADTWP) - Two year program.

See and learn & Work and learn Concept was implemented in curriculum of advanced diploma in wet processing(ADTWP) is two year program in which one year industrial training was given at PSSGL, Shirpur under work and earn and learn scheme of SVKM NMIMS University at Shirpur to train rural B.Sc Chemistry graduates. Classrooms are provided on production floor to tech theory and practical simultaneously to develop ability of technician to work on production floor under close supervision of experienced industry mentors working in PSSGL group. Our intention is to groom BSc graduate when they are in final year of BSc chemistry for textile wet processing course we are offering one year part time course advanced diploma in wet processing (ADD-ON) the course is conducted on Saturdays and Sundays for one year and 30 days In-plant training is provided at PSSGL to teach basic requirements of textile wet processing industry. Students who passed ADD-On course and BSc chemistry they are eligible to apply for two year program.

We wish to bridge the gap between education Industry by Industry participation in education.

IndustryInstitute interaction to formulate curriculum and project is mainly concerned to develop the ability of the students on the production floor, This way industry can groom the students for its requirements. Experienced Industry personnel mentoring students has been implemented with the help of PSSGL, ALOK and Welspun.

Main idea is to develop hands on experiences on the production floor to equip technicians with through knowledge of present work practices to be followed in industry with reference to quality, productivity and in time delivery to the customer.PSSGL gave Rs.4000 /- stipend for period of one year.

Industry Mentors PSSGL Process House, Shirpur1. Mr. M.S.Anjane Executive. Director PSSGL

2. Mr. M. Sayyeed GM PSSGL Dyeing

3. Mr. Vikas Kabule Lab manager

4. Mr. P. D. Deshpande Head-Towel Processing

5. Mr. Vinod Kumar K Head -Yarn Dyeing

6. Mr. Manish Jain Head-QA

7. Mr. Ravi Desai Head- Finishing

8. Mr. Rahul Trivedi Manager-Fabric Dyeing

Industry Mentors Alok Industries Ltd, Vapi

1. Mr. S. S. Aaich CEO- Wet Processing

2. Mr. Sachin Jagtap Manager Knits ProcessingIndustry Mentors Welspun India Ltd, Vapi

1. Mr. Rajnish Garg VP- Dyeing

2. Mr Gurvinder Singh Dy. Manager Processing

3. Mr. Arun Pratap Singh Sr. Manager Processing LabCentre of textile Function Staff1. Dr. P. P. Raichurkar Principal- CTF MPSTME NMIMS, Shirpur.

2. Prof. S. R. Kulkarni.

3. Prof. A.A. Bagwan.

4. Prof. Sachin Patil.

5. Prof. TarkeshwariBOARD OF STUDIES CTF MPSTME SVKMS NMIMS University Sl.NameOrganizationArea of SpecializationBrief Profile

1Mr. M S AnjaneExecutive Director.

Priyadarshini Sahakari Soot Girni

Shirpur

Dist DhuleTextile Technology,

Textile Management.B Text and M Text Textiles(VJTI),

EX- CEO Marol overseas, 30 years of experience

in Industry at various levels of management.

2Dr D J ShahDean( In charge)

Mukesh Patel School of Technology

Management & Engineering

NMIMS Mumbai. Chemical Engineering. Education.

Professional Management.M.Chemical Engg PhD (Tech) DMS

Ex Principal SBM Polytechnic, Mumbai

Ex Principal DJ Sanghvi Engineering College,

Mumbai. Total 25 years of experience.

3Dr P. R. RoyGroup Chief Executive(Textiles)

(Retired)

Arvind Mills

AhmedabadTextile Technology,

Technology ManagementPhD in Textile university of Manchester

(UMIST) 40 years of experience in

industry/research/ teaching .Chairman of RAC

ATIRA and CIRCOT. Worked as Textile Expert in

Ninth Five Year Plan. Ministry of Textiles GOI,

President of the Textile Association of India

Mumbai.

4Mr. P A BhattCEO

Gujarat Heavy Chemicals Limited

VAPITextile Chemistry.B.Sc (Tech) Textiles Chemistry, UDCT Matunga

25 years of rich experience In reputed Textile

processing units like Bombay Dyeing &

Welspun Terry Towels

5Mr. Marcel R ParkerPresident

Human Resourse

Raymond's GroupEconomics, Human Resource

ManagementPost graduate in HR from Indian Institute of

Management Ahmedabad, 35 years of

experience in Business Management

6Mr. Avinash GuptaPresident

Ginni filaments

MATHURATextile Technology SpinningB.Tech Textiles (IITD) 30 years of experience in

Research/ Industry, and 30 publications to his

credit.

7Dr. Milind K BhortakkeArvind

Head Spinning

Intex, LalBhai Group, AhmedabadTextile Technology SpinningM.Tech Textiles PhD (IITD) 12 years of

experience in Research / Industry.

8Mr. Rashmi ShahConsultant

Fact personnel,

AhmedabadTextile Technology Man power

consultant in Textile Industry.B.Text, M Text Textile (VJTI) 35 years of

experience in reputed Textile Industries.

9Mr. S SharmaBusiness Manager

Arvind Mills Ltd. AhmedabadManagement expert-

Process & ProceduresB.Sc, MBA

30years of experience in business development

and managerial positions in leading textile

Units.

10Prof D B

AjgoankarProfessor(Rtd)

VJTI, Mumbai

Founder Principal DKTEs

Textile Institute, IchalkaranjiTextile Technology,

Textile Education.B.Text (VJTI), M S Textiles, 30 years of

experience in Textile education, 7 years

experience in composite mills. 30 publications

in reputed journals and author of 4 Technical

Books.

11Dr H V

SreenivasamurthyConsultant, Centre for Textile

Functions Mukesh Patel School of

Technology Management &

Engineering SHIRPUR.

Advisor, Suits, Indore.Textile Technology,

Textile Management and

Textile Education.M.Tech Textiles PhD (IITD) FIE, FTA.

Retired Professor and Head Textile Department

VJTI Mumbai, 32 years teaching and Research.

Experience. Chartered Textile Engineer. 86

publications in reputed journals and author of 2

Technical Books

12Dr J HayavadanaProfessor & Head - Textiles

Osmania University, HyderabadTextile Technology,

Textile Management.M.Tech Textiles PhD (Anna University).

15 years of experience in Teaching.

66 Publications in reputed Textile journals

13Dr P P RaichurkarPrincipal

and Convener Centre for Textile

Functions Mukesh Patel School of

Technology Management &

Engineering SHIRPURTextile Technology,

Textile Management.M Tech Textiles PhD (Anna University). Ex-

Scientist-D KSSRDI, 25 years of experience in

Industry/Teaching/R&D, 33 publications in

reputed journals. Guided 2 students for award

of PhD.

Content

1. Colour Bleeding Problems in Cotton Yarn Dyed Fabrics Dyed with Reactive Colours &

Some Remedial Measures.

Khushal patil2. Reproducibility of Lab to Bulk in Fabric Dyeing for Reactive Dyes on RFT Principle Nilesh Jadhav

3. Study the effect of material to liquor ratio in yarn dyeing

Sandip D Patil,

4. Study the value loss in processing of knits and measures to improve it

Sandip G Patil,

5. Lab to bulk reproducibility of terry towel in reactive dye

Shyamkant Sonawne,

6. Study Effect of Different Parameters in Heat Setting of Lycra Fabric and Other Quality

Yogesh B Patil,

7. Problem & remedies in viscose lycra processing

Yogesh S Patil

8. Study the effect of different softener on fabric characteristics

Swati S. Patil,

Colour Bleeding Problems in Cotton Yarn Dyed Fabrics Dyed with Reactive Colours & Some Remedial Measures.

Khushal Patil, P.P. Raichurkar, M. Sayyed, S.R. Kulkarni, Sachin Patil*Abstract:

Many textile industries face general problem of fabrics color bleeding or tinting on the adjacent ground. If we have to deliver these fabrics as per standard quality requirements, it is necessary to study the root cause of bleeding in yarn dyed fabrics. Keeping the above facts in mind the experiment was designed to find out the important process parameter and in which there is minimum bleeding & required to dye cotton with reactive dyes.The present study includes effect of pH, temperature, hardness of water on bleeding behavior of dyes. From investigation it may be concluded that washing of yarn dyed fabric should be done at pH range of 6 to 7 and below 600C, and water used of 30 ppm.

Key word: Reactive dyes, pH, temperature, time, bleeding etc.Introduction:

In varieties of fabrics, yarn dyed fabrics (knitted or woven) have an important place. But general problem with these fabrics is the bleeding of color or tinting on the adjacent ground. If we have to deliver these fabrics as per standard quality requirements it is necessary to study the root causes of bleeding in yarn dyed fabrics with the remedies. Textile process house losses 8 to 10% production due to the bleeding of color of yarn dyed fabric. In this project it is aimed to study behavior of bleeding of color of yarn dyed fabric.

*Centre for textile functions (CTF), NMIMS University Shirpur campus, shirpur

Dist- Dhule, Maharashtra

These are three stages in manufacturing yarn dyed fabrics.

1. Dyeing of yarn.

2. To make fabric from dyed yarn.

3. To process and finish the woven fabrics.

So, for bleeding 1 & 3 stages are to be considered.

Dyeing of yarn:-

1. Improper dye fixation.

2. Improper neutralization.

3. Improper washing off.

These are some of the causes for bleeding of fabrics.

During washing of fabric there is a chance of bleeding due to variation in water quality. The important points to be considered for washing are;1. pH of water used.

2. Hardness of water.

3. Time & temp profile.

4. Long time storage before drying. Cross staining-color migration

Present investigations show the effect of time, temperature, pH on bleeding behavior of substrate.

Keeping the above facts into consideration our experiment was designed to find out the important process parameter in which there is minimum bleeding & important process parameters required to dye cotton with reactive dyes.

Material & Methods

The collect database from PSSGL, Shirpur dye house where chances of bleeding behavior of dyed yarn are more in dark shade, the selected shade shows more bleeding behavior which are represented in table.SR.NOLOT NO.SHADE % SHADECOMBINATION OF RECIPE

16977/76GREEN7.1N.YELLOW F4G=2.773%

N.BLUE FNR=0.77%

TURQUOISE CLB= 3.572%

26803RED6.5N.YELLOW S3R= 1.365%

N.BLUE FNR=0.0315%

RED S2B =5.250%

36658NAVY6.1YELLOW FN2R=0.1550%

RUBY S3B=1.545%

N.NAVY SGI=4.120%

46558VIOLET6YELLOW FN2R=0.0578 %

RUBY S3B=3.720%

N.DK.BLUE SGL=1.440%

56379DK BROWN5.1N.YELLOW S3R= 2.5225%

N.DEEP RED=1.3219%

DK.BLUE SGL= 1.4962%

612286AQUA3.6N.YELLOW F4G=0.1920%

N.BLUE FNG=0.127%

T.CLB=3.300%

76486T.blule3.60N.YELLOW F4G=0.06%

N.BLUE FNR=0.200%

T.CLB=3.413%

In order to study bleeding behavior of yarn dyed fabric, prepared 7 x 7cm strip size of yarn dyed fabric by using small knitting M/C with bleach white & colour yarn obtained from commercial manufacturing unit PSSGL, Shirpur & commercial dyes also procured from PSSGL

The specimen size is 7 x 7cm prepared on small knitting M/C in two colours, i.e. white/red & combination of Red, T.blue, Aqua, Brown, Violet, and Navy colour. Then testing is carried out at a temperature 60, 70, 80, 90, & 1000 C with different pH level 6.0, 7.5, 8.5 & 11.0, different time at 30,40,50 & 60 min & different water hardness at material to liquor ratio (MLR) is 1:15 & then auxiliary is used as follows,

Wetting agent = 0.5gpl.

Lubricating agent = 1.0gpl.

Stain removal = 0.5gpl.

Tested all sample of each shade & dried into the ovenDyeing Procedure

Dark shade dyeing

1. Above is added in stock tank along with glaubers salt, stirred well and transferred to the main KIER. Run the m/c at 60c for 20 minute. Mean while colour solution will be properly dissolved, transferred to the addition tank and readily available for dosing. [The operator will check the filter paper of the dye solution and after confirmation from the supervisor the dye solution will be transferred to main vessel].

2. Then colour dosing takes place for 20 minute at 60c. After dosing, m/c will run for 20 minute. Mean while the alkali will be dissolved and readily available in addition tank. After salt holding time the alkali dosing starts and continues for 20 minutes. Then m/c will run at 60c for 50-60 minutes, depends upon the depth of shade. (Check the pH before drain).3. After wards the dye bath gets drained and fresh cold water will be filled in the m/c. now the cold wash will be running for 10 minutes and drained. Again cold wash then neutralize [mean while stock tank will get filled with water and required quantity of acetic acid and core alkali neutralizer will be added in this tank and mixed well.] Bath gets transferred to main KIER from stock tank.

4. Neutralization at 50c for 15 minutes (Soap is added in stock tank in water and temperature raised to 80c). Drain the neutralization bath. Soaping bath transferred to main KIER and run at 98c for 10 minutes (Stock tank filled and heat to 80c) Drain the bath at high temperature.

5. This process repeated again & hot water transferred to main vessel and hot wash done at 80c for 10 minutes. This process repeated for one or two times till the wash water gets cleaned from the hydrolyzed dyes. Then the main vessel opened and sample is prepared from one cheese dried.6. And the shade is checked against the standard. If the shade is found ok, then the finishing chemicals and acetic acid added into the addition tank stirred well and transferred to main vessel.

7. Run the m/c at 50c for 20 minutes. Drain the bath squeeze & unload.

Result:

Given table shows the different parameter of washing yarn dyed fabric and its effects on yarn dyed fabrics

Conclusion: -

A]

Above yarn dyed fabric show bleeding at higher alkaline condition & high temperature of washing condition for these combinations of shade.

The most important factor of bleeding is pH & temperature of water during washing time.

Therefore during washing of yarn dyed fabric need to maintain proper pH i.e. 6.0-7.0 & temperature below 600 C to avoid the bleeding of yarn dyed fabric.

B]

The result of present investigation summaries as follows, as per as concerned with this study following mention properties analyzed.

1. pH of water

2. Hardness of water

3. Temperatures

4. Drying after different time gap.

1) PH of water

Reference to above present investigation it is on that the selected dark shade bleed at different pH. In pH 9-11 it is found that more bleeding effect take place. While minimize bleeding at pH is 6-8. 2) Hardness of water Referenced to above present investigation it is on that the selected drake shade bleeds at 300ppm of water hardness and as such no bleeding in 30ppm of water hardness.

3) Temperature-

Reference to above present investigation it is on that the selected dark shade bleed at higher temperature (90-1000C)

While as such no bleeding in 600C. But especially brown shade bleeds at 800C.

4) Pressure and time effect

Referenced to above present investigation it is found that selected dark shade specially brown and violet shade bleed at 370c for 18hrs. i.e. there is effect duration before drying pressure on the fabric in trolley this study show that dye combination in brown and violet shade show bleeding under late drying. Possible reason could be color migration.

Reproducibility of Lab to Bulk in Fabric Dyeing for Reactive Dyes on RFT PrincipleNilesh Jadhav, P.P. Raichurkar, M. Sayyed, S.R. Kulkarni, Sachin Patil*

Abstract:Dyeing is a complex process, where number of variables is involved. Dyeing process is broadly governed by fabric type, dye type, machine type, MLR time, temperature, pH of the fabric and liquor, type of auxiliary used etc. Any minor variation in any of these variables causes problem in dye reproducibility, though it is possible to achieve reproducibility in dyeing results. By standardizing each and every variable we can achieve consistent reproducible results and satisfy customer needs by making their process proficient. Obtaining RFT, following are important aspects of dyeing needs to be concentrated. Lab procedure must be reproduced or correlated with bulk system. Dyeing process must be standardized; Data base loaded on to computer should be updated. In this project we study process control parameter to achieve RFT. While working on this project we take parameter in account like hardness of water, whiteness of RFD, residual peroxide, MLR and carry over factor. Key words: hardness of water, carry over factor, specific gravity etcIntroduction:

The reproducibility of lab recipe in bulk production is an important aspect. But many a times it is not possible to get lab to bulk reproducibility of shades. Considering present competition in global and Indian market, this condition should be changed. For this following factors should be changed.

To collect the database of every day to day production of dyed shades. The database given us guideline to set the process and avoid the problems in future. This also gives us information about variation in parameters from lab to bulk. Hence it is necessary to develop database in proper documented system and communicated.

*Centre for textile functions (CTF), NMIMS University Shirpur campus, shirpur

Dist- Dhule, Maharashtra

The possible factors that affect lab to bulk reproducibility may be machine, working condition and operatives. Even minor changes in parameters produce major effect on reproducibility. Hence proper documentation and communication to all the levels from top to bottom should be developed.

Present project works deals with collection of data for same critical shades and study the process parameters and come to the conclusion on various factors that affect reproducibility for lab to bulk.

Material and MethodMaterial For study of lab to bulk reproducibility the material required is,

Sample dyed in laboratory, whose recipe is given to dyeing department for bulk dyeing.

Sample of dyed fabric, dyed in bulk with given recipe.

MethodCheck the parameters of RFD fabric and water before dyeing starts like pH, hardness, residual peroxide, whiteness index, etc.

Check the process of RFD fabric as well as dyeing as per standard. pH, salt and alkali concentration, temperature, etc.

Compare the dyed sample from lab and bulk dyeing with spectrophotometer.

The following factors that is readily manageable,

SR. NO.FactorsVariation tolerance

1Water Hardness