Probeauty June 2016

June 2016

www.probeauty.co.za

stockingup

Peeling treatments

Follicle Flurry

Striptease

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Relief for dehydrated skin

Social media marketing

Hair restoration treatments

Drought!

Managing stock levels

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In this issue...27

Regulars5 Industry news Local and international news

55 Hair news What’s hot and happening

in the hair industry

62 Product news All the latest launches

Business12 Ask the experts All your questions answered

15 Insider Tracking the industry with stats

17 The do’s and don’ts of selling How to sell your spa or salon

18 Kick-start your marketing Necessary strategies

20 Taking stock How to manage your stock levels

23 Upfront expertise The ‘don’t ask, tell’ philosophy

Features33 Treatment reviews Hydrating facials

36 Winter takes its toll Treating dehydrated skin

42 Striking oil Oils as found in massage

and body treatments

47 The big peel reveal Combining micro-needling

with chemical peeling

48 What lies beneath Latest peel technologies

52 Sensitive to the touch Product focus on peeling

after care

32

4724

56

30

Salon Focus24 A story of evolution Salon Aesthete in the spotlight

Spa Focus27 Wellness in the spa A holistic approach

30 A new beginning The Spa at Marion on Nicol

Nails59 Fall into winter with the latest

nail trends Autumn/winter trends

Medical Aesthetics56 Managing FPHL Hair restoration options

58 Creating the illusion of hair Scalp micropigmentation

Professional Beauty June 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079

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On the coverCover source:www.shutterstock.com

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Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 011 781 5970 [email protected]

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Printers ABC Press 021 5343210

At the time of going to press there was a definite chill in the air,

signifying the onset of winter. This is a bumper time of year for

salons and spas to offer hydrating facial and body treatments for

clients affected by drab and dehydrated winter skin, as well as

retailing super-moisturising products. As you will see in this issue,

there is a huge range of high quality products to choose from in this regard.

Winter is of course also the perfect time for salons and medical

aesthetics clinics to offer peels for clients. Peeling has become a hugely

popular way of rejuvenating the skin and of treating acne scarring.

Our special feature includes an article about the newest trend in the

peels domain – that of combining micro-needling and peeling in

one treatment.

It seems like an impossible conundrum – how do salon and spa

owners and/or managers accurately work out how much stock to

order to cover all their treatments and to keep on their shelves for

retail purposes? We provide some insightful answers in this issue.

We also include an ‘Ask the Experts’ article straight from an

advertising agency’s mouth on how to know which of the many social

media platforms in the cybersphere are best suited to marketing

salons and spas.

Joanna Sterkowicz

Editor

Welcome

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Milk Solutions Pro Beauty Softening Gloves Ad A4 V2.pdf 1 2016/04/22 13:24

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty June 2016

News in pictures

News

Delegates will have five, highly

topical and informative

seminar sessions to choose

from over the two-day event, with

each session lasting one and a half

hours.

Says programme director, Karen

Ellithorne: “Due to the fact that our

industry has evolved so much over

the years, we felt it necessary to offer

booster sessions targeted specifically

at therapists who want to expand

their knowledge and broaden their

horizons. By attending these sessions,

All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.

delegates will be able to keep abreast

of new technologies and industry

trends.”

Seminar topics include a panel

discussion on the importance of

skincare therapists and the role

they play in a medical aesthetic

practice, both from the doctor’s and

therapist’s perspectives. This session

will include a legal expert who will

provide information on the legislation

around therapists and doctors

working together and on the issue of

responsibility.

Symmetry World’s Mimmie Lancaster and

Professional Beauty commercial director,

Phil Woods, presented at the Professional

Beauty Network Breakfast on 25 April in

Johannesburg. Lancaster spoke about

retaining staff, while Woods focused on

the Allied Health Professional Council

of South Africa’s moves to make ‘non-

therapeutic’ massage, aromatherapy and

reflexology part of its register.

The Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo, which runs at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand, will host the Advanced Therapist & Medical Aesthetic Seminars Programme on 28 and 29 August.

industry news

5

Laserderm launches flagship branch

Other topics include the role of

accurate skin analysis in remedial

skincare; skin analysis diagnostic tools;

recognising skin lesions; Chinese facial

diagnosis; anti-ageing medication;

stress management, anti-ageing

medication and ageing as a disease.

Delegates will also learn about

peptides, probiotic skincare, cupping,

the return of the electrologist,

micropigmentation and tattoo

removal.

For further information, visit

www.probeauty.co.za

On 17 April medical aesthetics

clinic Lazerderm formally launched

its flagship branch, in Illovo

Johannesburg.

This new centralised branch is the

amalgamation of three Lazerderm

branches, namely Morningside,

Inanda and Dunkeld. It boasts 17

treatment rooms as well as a team

of experienced doctors and highly

trained therapists.

Treatments offered at Laserderm

Illovo include: Coolsculpting

(fat freezing); Thermage CPT

(skin tightening); Liposonix (fat

reduction); anti-wrinkle injections

and dermal fillers; laser hair

removal (Alexandrite & Nd:YAG);

Fraxel (skin resurfacing); CO2

skin resurfacing; Ulthera (non-

surgical skin lifting); Carboxy

Therapy, Vampire (PRP) facials

and chemical peels, among many

others.

Calling all advanced skincare therapists!

Laserderm’s Dr David Presbury, Dr Leane Louw and Dr Noori Moti-Joosub


6

■ Bodyography opens Concept Store: Professional make-up

brand Bodyography Cosmetics

launched its first Concept Store

in South Africa in April, at the

Cresta Shopping Centre in

Johannesburg. Customers are able

to have makeovers in a boutique

environment with access to the full

product range.

■ Sorbet SEW campaign latest: South African

beauty group

Sorbet brought

out limited

edition SEW

Mom Bracelets

for Mother’s

Day (8 May). SEW is a Sorbet and

Relate Enterprise Development

initiative that raises funds in support

of economic social responsibility

campaigns across Africa.

■ DermaFix sponsors Mrs SA Pageant: DermaFix

Cosmeceutical Skin

Care is sponsoring

Amorica Miller,

a DermaFix

representative, who

has made it into the

top 100 contestants

in the Mrs South Africa Pageant.

DermaFix is one of the Silver

sponsors for the event.

industry news

6

News in briefAmani turns 10On April 6 the Amani spas Group celebrated its 10th birthday.

Amani founder Ronleigh

Gordon, who owns 80%

of the shares of the group,

opened the first-ever Amani Spa

at Ivory Tree Game Lodge in the

Pilanesberg Game Reserve in 2006.

Today Amani Spas comprises 15

units – three city spas, five lodge

spas, four airport lounge spas and

three franchises – and employs over

100 individuals.

To mark its 10th anniversary the

group ran a spa special for all guests

during April. Each Amani team

celebrated in its own manner and

shared pics on social media.

Says Amani Spas chief operating

officer, Francisco Garcia: “This

milestone means so much to us,

especially because it was achieved

whilst trading in recessionary

Best Lasers has appointed a new sales representative –

Julia Broom.

“We are very proud of Julia’s hard work thus far,” says

the company’s CEO, Andrew Best, “and we are looking

forward to walking into a bright future together with her.”

times and a very

tough economic

environment.

“Amani has

managed to

grow its portfolio

from one to 15

units in 10 years,

due to its clear

business direction

and creating the

perfect wellness

solution to each of the properties’

needs.”

Garcia notes that Amani is very

proud of its community development

work, a core value in the company,

especially due to the fact that,

in several of the spa units, the

group trades in ‘not so privileged’

environments.

A new ‘Best’ appointment

■ New packaging for Esse: South

Africa’s only

certified organic

skincare brand,

Esse, has

revamped its packaging in support

of its growing export activities to

‘sit proudly on the shelves of the

world’s finest outlets’.

The International Spa

Convention, which runs

on 28 and 29 August at

Gallagher Convention

Centre alongside the

Professional Beauty

Johannesburg Expo,

will include a dedicated

sales workshop run by

Venetia Butler.

Known as one of

the country’s best trainers in sales

leadership and management, Butler

is currently the director of training

at SALESGURU. Her clients include

Nashua, Old Mutual, Sasfin, VW,

Toyota, Lexmark, Oracle, FNB,

Liberty and Momentum

Sales workshop at Spa ConventionButler’s sales workshop

will cover the following

topics:

The power of a purpose

bigger than your comfort

zones; What you should

never forget; What do

winners do that most

want; Who is your true

competitor and why it

matters; Leaving the

cult of mediocrity; You don’t leave

footprints in the sand by sitting down;

Why sales is personal and so are your

results; Don’t play the game, change

it; The power of ‘say my name’; and

Walking with giants – what this looks

like for your business and yourself.

Your chance to recognise and reward your favourite supplier

The aim of these awards is for salon owners, spa managers and therapists to nominate their favourite suppliers.

We will then create a short list and you can then vote for your top supplier. The one who gives you the best service or products.

The Professional Beauty Industry Awards allow your suppliers to be rewarded by you, their very important clients. These awards will help

suppliers get closer to their customers by receiving feedback on their service.

2016

NOMINATE YOUR FAVOURITE SUPPLIER NOW!

Visit www.probeauty.co.za and click on the ‘Awards’ tab.

• Best Supplier – Skin Care• Best Supplier – Nails

• Best Supplier – Equipment/Supplies• Best Marketing

• Best Training• Best Sales Rep

Nominate your favourite supplier:

The winners will be announced at the Professional Beauty Gala Dinner on 28 August 2016


industry news

is now more masculine as we wanted

a unisex type of environment so as to

attract more male clients.”

Another two franchises are to open

shortly, in the Johannesburg and

Centurion areas.

“We get franchise enquiries on a

daily basis,” continues Hermann. “All

of our current franchisees are ex-

clients of ours,” comments Hermann.

Commenting on the ClearLift facial

treatment from Alma Lasers, Hermann

describes it as ‘Hollywood’s best kept

secret’. “This is a non-ablative laser

treatment so there is no downtime. It

is also good for pigmentation.”

In addition to now offering the ClearLift non-surgical facelift, as well as the Electrolysis Reinvented treatment, at its Morningside branch, The Laser Beautique franchise has undergone a brand revamp with a new logo.

Other recent developments

include the creation of a gift

registry, targeted at expats

who want to send their relatives and

friends to The Laser Beautique for

treatments. A loyalty programme

– ‘Beauty Counts’ – has also been

implemented.

In addition, The Laser Beautique has

created a ‘Beautiquetionary’, which

outlines the clinic’s beauty belief –

that our skin is the largest organ on

the body and it protects everything

underneath.

Says The Laser Beautique owner,

Tzvia Hermann: “The first Laser

Beautique opened at the end of 2009

in Morningside, and this remains our

flagship branch. We recently revamped

our clinics at Bedfordview, Woodlands

and Fairmount. The look of the clinics

Claudeen Krause of Mesoestetic performed an Acnelan

peel to launch this new treatment for acne prone and

seborrhoeic skin, at an event held for salon owners at

Johannesburg’s Michelangelo Hotel on 10 May. Acnelan

contains Mesoestetic’s trademarked m.acne complex.

Dr Katya Tsvyetkova of homeopathic aromatherapy brand,

Lilian Terry International (LTI), recently provided training

on cupping therapy and LTI products for salon and spa

owners in the Western Cape and KwaZulu Natal.

Training took place at the Arabella Spa, the Zimbali

Hotel and Spa Natal.

“The training sessions were a case of ‘full house’ –

we could not accommodate any more guests,” says LTI

MD, Derek Terry. “It seems that the demand for South

African products is growing as the high cost of importing

products from overseas is a big factor.”

Cupping in action

New developments at Laser Beautique

As for the Electrolysis Reinvented

treatment, Hermann says she uses the

Apilus device from Canadian company

Dectro.

“This speedy, pain-free and

sophisticated device can treat

individual hairs, as well as blonde

and grey hairs. I’ve invested in this

amazing technology so much that we

are opening up a Dectro Academy

this September to offer training,”

concludes Hermann.

The Laser Beautique Group won

the 2015 award for Aesthetic Clinic of

the Year at the Professional Beauty

Awards.

9

News in pictures

• Best Supplier – Skin Care• Best Supplier – Nails

• Best Supplier – Equipment/Supplies• Best Marketing

• Best Training• Best Sales Rep


10 industry news

This treatment is used for

permanent hair reduction and

can successfully treat black skin

without causing hyperpigmentation

and other ailments.

Says Medinova founder and owner,

Dr Milena Popovic: “I am always on

the lookout for the latest technology

which can be incorporated into our

various treatments. Over the years I’ve

found that cutting edge technology in

the beauty industry is always evolving

and centres like Medinova have to stay

abreast of these advancements. This

particular laser is an ideal platform

for Medinova to expand its product

offering to discerning clients, whose

skin is easily distressed by techniques

that invade the skin by needle, tube

or scope.

“I had experienced the Alma

Lasers technology during a trip to

Holland last fall and the results were

not only instant but long lasting

for my sensitive skin. As a result, I

decided it was something that I had

to offer to my loyal client base.”

Vitaderm’s new micro-needling device

Skincare brand

Vitaderm recently

launched its Collagen

Induction Treatment,

incorporating an

automated micro-

needling pen system.

Says Vitaderm’s

Belinda Wesson: “The

advantage of the

pen over the roller

is that the treatment

depth can be altered

according to the area

worked on. Hard to

reach areas such as

below the eyes, as

well as the upper lip area, are also

easily treated with the pen.

“Another benefit is the hygiene

aspect, since fully disposable needle

cartridges are used for each and

every treatment.”

According to Wesson, the

Vitaderm pen is surprisingly

affordable due to direct importation.

“Complimentary practical and

theoretical training is available,

she says, “as are supporting

professional products such as

the Hyaluronic Acid Gliding Gel.

Individual needle cartridges are

also well priced.

“Outstanding results are

achieved with a cumulative effect

being seen after three months.”

Marlien Fourie has joined Fast and

Furious Waxing Academy.

During April Fourie spent time

at the company’s Northcliff branch

to complete her Fast and Furious

training. As from May, Fourie has been

working between the Pretoria and

Johannesburg’s branches.

Meanwhile, Fast and Furious owner,

Adele Mans, has been spending time in

Cape Town to plan for the opening of

a new branch in that city, as well as a

training academy.

New ‘Fast and Furious’ moves

Medinova in ‘Harmony’Sandton-based aesthetician centre, Medinova, is believed to be the first brand in Africa to own the Harmony Pro XL from Alma Lasers.

Dr Milena Popovic


12 ask the experts

Ask the experts

Britt Adami is an online and digital expert based in Cape Town, South Africa. Her passion lies with social media and growing a brand’s online presence.

Our beauty industry experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

The most popular platforms in

South Africa are Facebook,

YouTube, Twitter, Instagram

and LinkedIn, with Snapchat being

used by early adopters.

There are two platforms I would

recommend when I scroll my eye

past the word ‘beauty’ – Facebook

and Instagram. Both thrive on visual

content – videos, GIFs, and photos –

but have very different attributes.

Let’s start off with the king of

them all – Facebook. This is the

most obvious and biggest platform

in South Africa, with 13 million

subscribers (10 million of which

are logging on via mobile devices).

Facebook has evolved through the

years from a small student portal

into a major social media platform

that individuals and businesses have

capitalised on.

Mark Zuckerberg soon saw an

opportunity here, too: just as in TV

and radio, advertisers have to pay

for space on Facebook, so he started

decreasing organic reach (unpaid

distribution) of brand pages in an

effort to ensure that money is put

behind the content to be seen by its

target market.

Of the 50% of females that are on

Facebook in South Africa, the majority

that are interested in beauty are age

18-34 (72%), followed by age 35-64

(24%). The biggest female age group

currently active on the platform is

25-34. This tells us that, with a bit

of advertising budget, and some

innovative copywriters, you can break

through the crowd and catch your

target market’s attention. With R1000,

you should be able to grow your fan

size by at least 500 fans.

Quick tips: Humour, short videos,

GIFs, and beautiful imagery do really

well on Facebook. There is no need for

hashtags but I would suggest a strong

call to action. Posting every second

day has also become best practice for

brands. Facebook is great if you are

looking to build a strong community.

Now for the fastest-growing

platform in South Africa – Instagram.

With over 3.2 million followers, and

a growth of over 65% year on year,

Instagram is the perfect platform

to showcase not only your own rich,

visual and authentic content, but also

that of your customers.

Instagram is the kind of platform

where you snap a pic, choose a breath-

taking filter and upload there and then.

Instagram allows you to reach out to

anyone, and influencers and content

are endless. Advertising on Instagram

in South Africa is very cost-efficient.

(The current cost per engagement is

around R0.23 - R0.30), and you’re able

to link people straight to your website,

blog or Facebook page.

Quick tips: The use of hashtags

really helps your content go further, as

anyone with that same interest is likely

to see your content and double tap

it. Post daily to keep your fans in the

know, otherwise your fan base may

decline.

Beauty salons can keeping their

customers up to date with a gallery

of their work, as well as the latest

deals. Ensure that you keep it fresh,

innovative and enticing and you’ll have

a successful profile in no time!

What are the most suitable social media platforms for promoting my salon and how do they differ from each other?


13

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS?Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to [email protected]

Three categories accurately

represent the definition of an

oncology client: the client is

either in active cancer treatment or

recent recovery, or is in long-term

survivorship, or is in a place where

cure is not the objective, but quality

of life the goal.

Specialised treatment protocols

for clients with cancer or cancer

treatment histories can include

protocols for lymphedema or

risk thereof, nausea, and fatigue.

Oncology clients will also welcome

symptomatic relief from alopecia

and neuropathy, a type of nerve

damage. Skincare treatments

can calm and sooth, hydrate and

replenish, repair and strengthen

the skin. All this (and it feels

good too) which, at a time when

touch is frequently a painful or

uncomfortable experience, can be

very nurturing for the recipient.

Although skincare treatment

and massage modifications are

clearly required for the person

in active cancer treatment and

recent recovery, it is the long-

term side effects of treatment that

are most often overlooked and

underestimated. These are often

more acutely felt than the effects of

cancer itself, and frequently it is the

side effects of cancer treatments

that create more treatment

guidelines and working boundaries

How do I go about performing massage treatments on clients who are suffering from cancer?

for the therapist, both in the short-

and long-term, than the actual

effects of the disease. Long-term

medications, bone integrity, vital

organ involvement, effects on skin

and tissue from surgery or radiation,

and considerations pertaining to

lymph nodes affected during cancer

treatment should always be at the

forefront of the therapist’s mind.

In particular, many oncology

clients have had lymph nodes

compromised during diagnostic

procedures, surgery or radiation.

The client with, or at risk of,

lymphedema, will forever require

therapist modifications, during

facial and massage treatments.

Therapists should look for

accredited training through

reputable organisations such as

ISOE (International Society for

Oncology Estheticians) and S4OM

(Society for Oncology Massage).

At the very least, foundation

training for skincare and

massage therapists working with

oncology clients should include

an understanding of how cancer

starts and spreads, primary clinical

considerations and their required

modifications, cancer treatments

and their side effects, and product

considerations.

Additionally, supervised experi-

ence working with oncology clients

and/or an internship for extended

Johnnette du Rand, a co-founder of Greet The Day, is an oncology massage and skincare therapist and educator in hospital, hospice and spa settings. She is a board member for the International Society of Oncology Estheticians, and charter member for the Society of Oncology Massage. Email [email protected]

hands-on experience is highly

recommended.

Oncology massage skincare is

an advanced field of study and

therapists need working experience

with a non-medically sensitive client

population, and post-graduate

oncology-specific training to prepare

them to understand, and work safely

with, the unique and changing needs

of oncology clients. PB

ask the experts


HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN APRIL

2016 COMPARE WITH APRIL 2015?

INSIDER SAlONSalons did not have a great

April as the majority reported

a drop in business as

compared to the same time

last year. School holidays

coupled with public

holidays played a big part

in the downward trend. Retail

sales told much the same story,

with one salon owner saying that

she’d found the last few months ‘extremely tough’.

Other salons noted a definite trend among clients to

cut back on spend, due to the recession and cited

the rising price of products as a big problem.

In terms of added value strategies, one salon adds

value wherever possible – foot massage, manicures,

pedicures and specialised masks. Other salons offer

specials on a monthly basis, or might add a massage

to treatments on special occasions like Mother’s Day.

Most salon owners believe that students should

be taught retail skills. Other issues are that students

leaving college are not taught to handle difficult

clients and that there is not enough mentoring for

students from specialised skin clinics. PB

The month in numbers

AVERAGE TREATMENT

ROOM OCCUPANCY

60%

77% BETTER

5% SAME

18% WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN APRIL


80% BETTER

3% SAME

17% WORSE

INSIDER SPASpas fared very well in terms of treatment business during

April 2016, with one destination spa reporting an influx of

foreign guests, while other spas successfully upsold and

upgraded their treatments. Although some spas had less

guests than last April, there was a higher average spend per

guest this time round.

Retail sales were also up, with spa guests more willing

to spend on themselves. Several spas emphasised the

importance of training from brand houses, which boosts

the confidence of therapists in recommending products to

guests.

As for added value, one spa group has a signature

welcome touch and farewell ritual for all its treatments. Other

spas add touches during treatments, such as hot bean bags

and booties, or applying a refreshing gel to the back after a

massage on tension areas.

We asked spas what colleges need to do to better

prepare students for work and the general

consensus was to equip them with

home care recommendation skills.

Other suggestions were time

management training and teaching

students the reality of the beauty

industry – that it requires very

hard work and long hours. A useful

suggestion was work-integrated

learning with actual spa experience,

and strict monitoring by schools of

experiential hours. PB

AVERAGE TREATMENT

ROOM OCCUPANCY

59%

33% BETTER

0% SAME

67% WORSE

Insider

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN APRIL


31% BETTER

3% SAME

66% WORSE

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN

APRIL 2016 COMPARE WITH APRIL 2015?

Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in South Africa to track business in April 2016.

business trends

15

The list of speakers include doctors, entrepreneurs, a plastic surgeon, skin care manufacturers and so much more.

Well-known names such as Ian Fuhr and Des Fernandez are included in this superb line-up of speakers.

Please visit the website at www.cidescoireland2016.com for more information.

CIDESCO Ireland has also organised a series of social events

that will be a great addition to your visit, including a gala dinner and a night out at a traditional Irish pub,

singing and dancing and good times.

CIDESCO Ireland would like to invite you to the World Congress

in Dublin to celebrate

70 years of CIDESCO

Thursday 22nd of September 2016 to the 26th of September 2016

Email [email protected] website: www.cidescoireland2016.com

Cidesco ad.indd 1 2016/05/17 9:21 AM


business tips

17

The first rule is to

plan ahead and think

the sale through. It

could take months

to prepare figures,

reports and analysis. Any smart buyer

will carefully examine a business

for sale, and, unless they see the

likelihood of an excellent return on

their investment, they will not buy.

Prepare your spa for the sale

by enhancing it to the best of your

ability and you will achieve your

price. But be realistic; we know

you love your business, but buyers

are not interested in your feelings.

They only want success. So, divorce

yourself from your emotions, and

objectively consider the buyers’ point

of view. Know what your business is

worth and make your price realistic.

Identify assetsPhysical assets include your equipment

and treatment plinths, as well as stock

on hand. Your fixed assets (written

down) depreciate from the date of

purchase. Identifying both types of

assets gives you a realistic value of

both at the time of sale. Bear in mind

that some assets have to be revalued

above their depreciated values.

Look at your intangible assets. This

is not easy as it includes your client

list, key personnel, logo, trademarks

and good will. What is good will? It’s

Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.

your reputation, your brand and the

relationship you’ve built up with your

clients. Request the interested buyer

to sign a non-disclosure document to

secure confidentiality.

Financial reportsA serious buyer will want to see three

to five years’ worth of financial reports.

You need to be able to present your

financials honestly and openly. Work

with an accountant and get your

paperwork in order and your financials

up to date.

Setting a price will depend on how

profitable your business is and the

value of your assets. The profitability

of the business is measured by the PE

(Price Earnings) ratio, which varies

from industry to industry and may

be higher (to your advantage) at the

time of sale if it can be shown that the

prospects of the business are bright.

You’ll need copies of all

documentation – leases, capital

equipment, accounts receivable and

payable, stock on hand, tax returns

and more. You will also need a written

description of the business with a

current marketing plan and projections

for the future.

A seller’s document is an excellent

tool. It tells the story of your

business, current and prospective

clients, marketing, and financial

highlights, prospects for growth and

information on competition. Keep it

short, neatly typed, grammatically

correct and enticing. Content and

quality must be good.

Maintain your employees’ loyalty

and respect by involving them and

sharing your plans.

Selling is a complex process

and there are no short cuts. It is

important to enlist professional

help where needed, in the form of a

broker, accountant and/or attorney.

Obtaining help and doing it

professionally is the winning formula

for a successful sale. PB

You’ve made the decision to sell your spa or salon…. that’s the easy part. Now, you have to put in the hard work as you want to sell with integrity, have a satisfied buyer, and you want to make money, writes Debbie Merdjan.

The do’s and don’ts of selling


business tips

18

The first step in

marketing your salon

is to set aside some

time. This is easier

said than done. I’m

sure the phrase - ‘there are never

enough hours in a day’ – sounds

familiar. But if you want to attract new

clients and increase turnover, then

marketing is key; it therefore makes

sense to give it the importance it

deserves. So choose a quiet day, like

a Monday, and dedicate two hours a

week to focus on getting your name

out there.

The brutal truthSelf-evaluation is never easy;

however, it is absolutely necessary

if your marketing is to be successful.

How good are you? It’s great if your

marketing is working and you are

getting 30 new clients in a month,

but if only two of these are retained,

then what a waste of time and

money!

A mystery guest can give

constructive feedback on how to

make changes to your salon before

you embark on a huge campaign.

Ayesha Rajah, MD of A&I Importers and owner of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa, has been involved in the spa and skincare industry for more than 20 years. Rajah also facilitates training for Phytomer, Priori and Skin Doctors.

Marketing calendarWinter is always the best time to start

planning your marketing strategy

as you will have less time when the

busier summer months approach.

Draw up a calendar for the next six

months, not just for monthly specials

but be target-specific. How about

running a Facebook competition for

Women’s Day, or inviting a blogger

to your salon in September, or

dedicating October to revamping

your website?

Clean upTake out all your current marketing

materials – from business cards to

monthly promotions to brochures to

price lists. Check for consistency in

colours, fonts and imagery.

Make sure that your social media

sites have the same look and feel

and that you have your address on

your Facebook site and Google map

location, as well as co-ordinates on

your website.

Social mediaIf this is not your forté, rather hand

it over to one of your tech-savvy

team members. However, I suggest

you write up a few guidelines on

how you want to be represented.

Better still – approve every post

prior to it going live to ensure there

is consistency in the message and

branding.

Don’t let it overwhelm you! Being

on every platform is not a necessity.

My personal opinion is that

Facebook and Twitter work well for

our industry. If you do great make-

up, nails, or have effective results-

based treatments, than remember

that ‘a picture speaks a thousand

words’, so Pinterest or Instagram

might be more effective.

Take your marketing strategy

one step at a time so that you don’t

strain your time and cash flow

resources. PB

Just the thought of starting to market your salon is daunting. You know it’s important, as the market is very competitive, and you know that it is a necessity to grow your business, but the question is how? Ayesha Rajah provides some insight.

Kick-start your MARKETINg


business tips

20

There is a vicious circle associated

with stock on retail shelves and

in professional treatment rooms.

How many units of each product

should you stock and when is it a

cost to your business?

To a business owner, stock is cash sitting on a

shelf not moving and not generating income for

the company. But to a consumer, not having the

correct stock levels on shelves could indicate that

there is a cashflow problem in the business, or that

stock is old, or that consumers are not purchasing

from you. Whatever the reason it could sway

consumers to go elsewhere.

Think of when you go grocery shopping –

would you buy that last banana sitting on its own

in a massive crate? Or would you rather go and

pick up bananas from a full crate that is bright and

yellow?

Incorrect stock levels in the professional

treatment room could indicate that you are

skimping on the treatment and the results

Taking SToCk

expected by clients. These days consumers

want added value and the best results, so

stock is not an area you ever want to skimp

on. Always ensure you have the full professional

stockholding to offer customisable results for

the treatments on your menu.

The following basic tips with regards to stock

management should be shared with your entire

team (therapists and managers) to ensure that

everyone works to the same policy.

Tracking trends in your businessAn important analysis tool that a lot of business

owners forget to do (or choose not to do) is

tracking which units sell and which don’t.

By understanding the trends in your clients’

purchasing patterns, you will be able to know

straightaway which products you should stock

more of, and which should be kept to single units.

While it is great to focus on what you are

purchasing from your suppliers, you also need

to measure sell out (i.e. what you are selling

As a salon or spa owner, how do you go about stocking your

shelves? It really isn’t complicated, writes lauren gibson.


business tips

21

lauren gibson has worked for Dermalogica for nearly four years. She has been an educator, sales brand consultant, and, more recently, the regional manager for Cape Town. Her passion lies in upskilling people, seeing the potential in businesses and unlocking that potential and constantly learning to reignite her love for the industry. E-mail: [email protected]

Pho

to: T

im G

erg

es

to your consumers), as this allows a deeper

understanding of the trends in your business.

Furthermore, be aware of events you may be

holding at your salon/spa, seasonal changes and

industry focuses, as this could alter purchasing

patterns, the amount of stock on shelf and

orders. Keeping a record of this will be important

for your company’s history and year-on-year

comparisons.

Stock minimums and buffer stock By working with minimum stock levels (based on

trends), you will be able to watch your cashflow

and budget for your orders.

There are many different methods of doing

this – you can build a simple Excel spreadsheet

that acts like a replenishment report and tells

you when you need to order and how many units

of each product are required.

Or, you can have markers on your shelf. Once

the marker becomes visible – it’s time to top up

those shelves!

Stock counts These are critical, so don’t be lazy. Understanding

the amount of stock you have on hand will help

you to plan cashflow and orders.

Ideally, stocktakes should be

done every week (most businesses

do this on a Monday morning) and

then orders can be placed off that

stocktake.

If you work with a system ensure

that it matches your stock on hand, the receiving

of stock and the sale of stock. Accurate records

make your reporting much easier and you can

understand the ebb and flow of your business.

Maintain a FIFO (first in, first out) When stock arrives in your business ensure that

new stock is placed at the back of the line and

older stock in the front. This is critical, especially

with products that expire, and will help you

mitigate losing money by throwing expired

products away, which is an unnecessary cost.

Put a therapist in charge of running this

aspect of the business and rely on your brand

representatives to check expiry dates for you.

Where’s the money, honey? If you understand which products make the best

margins and generate the best revenue, you need

to ensure these items are a focus in your display

area and that they are fully stocked. Otherwise

you will lose those sales to another business.

Work with suppliersYour suppliers are there to help you. Ensure you

are aware of your supplier lead times, delivery

charges and promotions. If a supplier takes

four days to deliver stock then ensure you have

enough stock on the shelves to last until then.

Should your supplier give you a number of

free deliveries in the month, ensure you work to

those deliveries so that this doesn’t become an

extra cost to your business. And embrace the

promotions – if you were going to order anyway

you may as well get a few extra units to benefit

from the freebies and offer this value to your

consumers.

Understanding stock doesn’t have to be

difficult. Yes, it may take some time to put in

place and require a bit of admin every week or

month, but it could help you save rands and cents

and allow you to work more effectively.

If you are still feeling uncertain, chat to an expert

in the industry, or your brand representative, so

they can offer you some assistance. PB

22

JOHANNESBURG28 & 29 AUGUST 2016

A DATE FOR YOURAUGUST DIARY

Exclusively for your beauty, hair and spa businessThe must attend event for your profession

Register now for your fREE ticket: www.probeauty.co.za


23 business tips

The late Steve Jobs

famously said that people

don’t know what they

want until you give it to

them. As the man who

pioneered a revolution in technology,

the Apple co-founder learned from his

early focus groups with gadgets such

as the iPod that people’s perception

of a concept (one dial, no separate

controls) can change the minute they

see it for real.

This got me thinking about the

possibility of creating a new, more

strategic approach to our prescriptive

and bespoke beauty services.

Sometimes, as therapists and

experts, we pussyfoot around in the

consultation, waiting for the client to

raise their (obvious) concerns before

we do, for fear of causing offence. Is

this how other experts would behave?

Would a brain surgeon look at a scan

and ask the patient to point out a

tumour before they did? A client

recently told me that she’d be very

happy for a therapist to cut the ‘fluff’

and tell her what was wrong with

her skin, rather than fishing around

asking delicate questions. A direct,

authoritative approach is sometimes

just what people need.

Be specificI for one follow this school of thought.

I’d far rather be told that someone

can do something about my dark

circles, fine lines and split ends than

spend 40 minutes with them asking

probing questions to get me to list

the issues. We have a saying in the

salon – ‘act like the expert you are’.

Our salon manager and spa director

continually encourage their teams

to advise, prescribe and diagnose

without prompting, and to ensure

the client knows we have solutions

to their concerns.

This ‘don’t ask, tell’ philosophy

needs a subtle approach, of

course, so as not to offend clients’

sensibilities. But this approach does

pay dividends in increasing our

professionalism and expertise and

we know now, more than ever, that

customers will pay for the expertise.

Going back to the surgeon analogy,

nobody is just a surgeon. They might

be an orthopaedic surgeon or a

brain surgeon, but they’re never just

a surgeon, and, if they were, who on

earth would want to see them? This

approach to diagnosis takes that

ethos of expertise to another level,

but we need to keep differentiating,

because the beauty industry is a

different animal these days. The

customer, and the way they use our

services, has changed. The price

they pay us for certain services has

been severely impacted too.

Changing customer perception

with upfront expertise and diagnoses

might just be the way forward for all

of us. PB

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London’s Sloane Square.

Upfront expertisePerhaps it’s time we started telling, rather than asking, our clients which treatments and products they need, suggests Hellen Ward.


24 salon focus

When Salon Aesthete

originally opened

over 20 years ago,

it was in Oxford

Manor in Illovo. A

few years later the salon moved to the

adjacent Thrupps Centre on Oxford

Road.

Monique Denovan, a somatologist

with 23 years of experience, began

managing the salon in 1997 and took

ownership in 2000.

“Salon Aesthete started off as

a traditional beauty salon, which

offered mainly manicures, pedicures,

waxing, facials and massages,” says

Denovan. “In the last eight years we

felt the need to expand our menu to

offer more specialised treatments, as

we found that clients were asking for

better results and we didn’t want to

lose them to aesthetic clinics.

“We started by bringing in RégimA

to improve pigmentation, scarring and

open pores and have been ecstatic

with the range. The Lamprobe

machine, together with the Skin Lite

and Cryoprobe, were other pieces of

equipment that we bought in order

for us to treat skin irregularities that

a dermatologist would normally

treat, but which medical aid schemes

would categorise as a cosmetic

procedure. We are able to treat

situated in Illovo, Johannesburg, salon Aesthete has a history that dates back to the early 1990s. since those days much has changed, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

A story of evolution

From left: Jeanette Maseko, Lerato Shilaloke, Monique

Denovan and Mavis Mashathini


25 salon focus

fibromas, skin tags and capillaries, and

can differentiate between a skin lesion

being cancerous or just a sun spot.”

Salon Aesthete also offers micro-

needling to stimulate collagen

synthesis, which is vital for anti-ageing.

InvestmentDenovan notes that she is fortunate to

have an investor who placed the Cryo

Fat freezing machine in Salon Aesthete

three years ago, and, since then, the

Laser and Cavitation machines.

She says: “To generate more

business for these procedures we

advertise on Groupon and have gained

clients from elsewhere that we would

normally not have had.

“We are also trying to increase our

young clientele, so we have a special

section on our menu devoted to

teens and tweens as we would like

to encourage them to start looking

after their skin and bodies from a

young age.”

Denovan notes that to thrive in

such tough economic times, Salon

Aesthete offers specials on a monthly

basis.

BrandsOne of the skincare brands stocked

by Salon Aesthete is Dermalogica.

“We have many devoted

customers who have been using this

brand for years. Their head office

is within walking distance and their

training is awesome.

“RégimA and Environ are

products that we can proudly call

South African and are very popular

amongst our clients.

“Black Pearl was the latest

addition to our range of products

and it has a unique facial routine

that involves using a Gravity black

mud masque, which is removed

with a magnet. The facial and

décolleté massage is done using

rose quartz stones. It is one of our

most luxurious facials and the Black

Pearl Collagen Facial is loved by our

more mature clients,” comments

Denovan.

Salon Aesthete’s nail services

include manicures and pedicures,

artificial nails and Gelish.

In terms of the salon’s ethos,

Denovan tries to instil a sense of

professionalism, customer care and

friendliness in her team, so as to

create a memorable experience for

clients. PB

Denovan tries to instil

a sense of professionalism,

customer care and friendliness in

her team

SALON AT A GLANCE

Owner/manager: Monique Denovan

Size: 100 square metres

Number of treatment rooms: 5 rooms and dedicated nail area

Number of full-time therapists: 4

Brands: Black Pearl, RégimA, Environ, Dermalogica, Gelish, Morgan Taylor, Patricia Clarke and Nuskin

2016

more info: www.probeauty.co.za

BOOK EARLY FOR YOUR 2016 DELEGATE PASSCheck the website for online bookings

and benefits: www.probeauty.co.za

On: 28 & 29 August 2016at: Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand

Let’s talkabout it...

SUNDAY 28 AUgUSt 2016

8h30 Registration

9h30 Welcome by Mark Moloney

10h00 KEYNOtE SPEAKER Andrew Gibson VP Spa and Wellness Fairmont Raffles Hotels and Resorts

11h30 Tea / coffee

12h00 StAFF

Staff Retention programmes

How to recruit the right team

Invest in training your team

13h00 – 15h00 Lunch and exhibition

15h00 MARKEtiNg

How to put together an advert

Power of copywriting

Social Media: How impactful is it and how does it affect your turnover?

Mobile marketing

16h00 ECO SUStAiNABiLitY

Renewal sources

Carbon neutral ideas

17h30 Tea and Close

MONDAY 29 AUgUSt 2016

9h00 Registration

9h30 SALES tRAiNiNg WORKShOP - WALKiNg With giANtS Venetia Butler Director of training at SALESGURU (Africa’s leading sales and sales management training company)

11h00 Tea

11h30 – 13h00 Workshop continued

13h00 – 14h30 Lunch and exhibition

14h30 CUStOMER SERviCE

First contact with your business

Customer narrative

Attention to detail of the customer treatment

Customer feedback: the lost art of connection

15h30 REvENUE MANAgEMENt

Understanding cost of goods and how it impacts your bottom line

Effective booking of treatments and upselling

Improve your bottom line or your business will go bottoms up!

16h30 Close

Spa convention programme ad.indd 1 2016/05/17 11:25 AM


27 spa focus

There are many definitions of wellness but

my favourite is by dictionary.com, which

says that wellness is ‘the quality or state of

being healthy in body and mind, especially

as the result of deliberate effort’.

Another definition from the same source defines

wellness as ‘an approach to healthcare that emphasises

preventing illness and prolonging life, as opposed to

emphasising treating diseases’.

Both of these definitions relate back directly to the

spa and what we should be offering our guests.

Let’s look at a few ideas on how to incorporate

wellness in your business and ensure you are meeting

the needs of the consumer from a broader holistic

approach.

Wellness in destination spa holiday packagesMost people who go on holiday do so to relax and

spend time with their families, as holiday time is

used to de-stress and unwind. So, ensure to offer spa

packages that use the words ‘unwind’ and ‘de-stress’

Tapping into the concept of wellness seems to be a global spa and tourism trend these days, but was does ‘wellness’ actually mean? Marisa Dimitriadis provides some insightful answers.

and phrases like ‘wellness on your holiday’, ‘holiday

health and wellness’, etc.

Work with the hotel’s rooms division to offer

exclusive leisure guest wellness packages, where

treatments and perhaps nature walks, yoga, cycling

and even specific wellness meals are offered. Most

destination and hotel spas will say they have this

available already, however is this package being

marketed and offered at reservation level and

is the leisure guest met on arrival at the hotel

and offered a five-minute unwind welcome neck

massage whilst checking in?

The success of wellness in holiday spa packages

depends on the point at which they are introduced

into the guest’s interaction with the hotel. They

need to be incorporated and introduced at

booking level and every step of the guest journey

and the hotel needs to incorporate wellness ideas.

For example, an idea here is to have an in room

bath menu where perhaps two or three different

bath oils are offered with therapeutic benefit for

specific wellness needs. The guest then orders the

Wellness in the spa

R


28 spa focus

bath as if they were ordering some in room dining.

Try, where possible, to take wellness into the

guest room by offering yoga or meditation DVDs

for the guest to view and use. The turndown

bedroom service could incorporate a wellness

sleeping tip and perhaps a herbal tea to enhance

quality of sleep.

Partner with wellness events Find out about wellness events taking place in your

area, such as walking clubs, running clubs, cycling

clubs, nutrition talks, golf days, etc. and ensure to

add value to the consumers attending and find

ways to get them back into your spa. This does

not mean giving out freebies, it means looking for

ways to engage with the consumer and ensure they

return to your spa.

Some ideas here could be applying sunblock to

golfers before they start their game, or applying a

soothing muscle gel to golfers after their game.

Perhaps in the walking or running clubs, offer

each member a free value added treatment

with any muscle easing massage booked.

Wellness tip of the monthMake it your mission to find one wellness

tip every month that you carry through your

business. An example for the month of June

could be to boost your body for winter with

natural immune boosters added to your diet.

Research what those immune boosters are and

give every single client a little write-up with this

wellness tip of the month.

Then connect the wellness tip with a treatment

that also boosts your body in winter, such as a full

body exfoliation with a super-hydrating body mask

and a destress full body muscle easing massage.

Carry the theme through all marketing channels,

such as e-mail banners, website banner, social

media posts and ensure all your staff are educating

their customers on the tip of the month.

Scholar wellnessDon’t forget the scholars, more specifically the

teenagers and students who are experiencing

stress levels like never before. Have you thought

about creating a

package for their

specific needs, like

an exam brain clearing

massage, or neck soothing

massage which caters towards

combatting the stress they feel during exam times.

These treatments need to be marketed to the

parents and your team should show them how

these massages can improve their scholars’ mind

set and physical wellbeing.

Corporate wellnessMore than ever before is the wording ‘prevention

is better than cure’ resonating in the corporate

world. Employers are looking for ways to reduce

absenteeism due to stress and illness and this is

exactly where your spa comes in with the perfect

solution.

However, the corporates are not going to run

to your doorstep begging you for the answer. You

have to approach them and create the need and

prove that your spa and services can prevent and

maintain healthy minds and bodies.

Wellness for momsWhether pregnant or not, mothers’ minds and

bodies take huge strain so find ways to capture

their attention with treatment and packages suited

to their specific needs. This could be a light leg

circulation boosting treatment for pregnant ladies

or a time out massage for new moms, or a top to

Have an in room bath menu

where perhaps two or three different bath oils

are offered with therapeutic benefit for

specific wellness needs.

Professional Beauty June 2016

spa focus

29

toe ‘just for mom’ type of package, where she

is groomed from head to toe and leaves the

spa feeling like new.

The ideas are endless and wellness is a

reality and very much a part of everyone’s lives

in some way or another. Ensure you align your

business with helping to improve the quality of

your customers’ lives.PB

Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on [email protected] for more information.

Create a wellness add-on menu for treatments offered in the spa. This is simple and easy. Every single one of your customers is looking for ways to de-stress and feel better so offer them simple, small add-on items on the treatment menu to enhance the wellness, experience.

Examples of wellness add-ons:

■ 10-minute stretching added on to massage treatment

■ Specialised massage oils with therapeutic benefit instead of plain carrier oil

■ Specialised wax candles or specialised balms for massage

■ Wellness drinks menu

■ Specific de-stress music matched to massage

■ De-stress exfoliation and mask added to back massage

■ Heated neck pillow

■ Herbal eye pillows

Wellness add-on menu


30 spa focus

Sheila Otieno-Osanya is

the new sole owner of the

recently revamped The

Spa at Marion on Nicol,

which opened its doors on 1

February this year.

The spa was previously Spa de la

Veille. Commenting on what prompted

her to take over the spa, Otieno-Osanya

says: “I own a spa consulting company,

The Spa People, which has been in

operation since January 2009. There are

quite a few spa consulting companies

in South Africa, some of which have

created training programmes for spa

staff. Others have developed their own

skincare and body product ranges.

“I decided that my point of difference

would be that I would be the only spa

consultant who actually owns and

operates their own successful spa. This

A new beginningThe spa at the stylish sandton boutique hotel, The Marion on Nicol, recently underwent a change of ownership and management, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.


31 spa focus

would give clients peace of mind when choosing

my company for their spa consulting services.

Owning a spa will also help me keep abreast

of industry trends. In addition, I will have the

opportunity to train and develop spa staff, which

is a passion of mine.”

Otieno-Osanya, who has a background in

hospitality management, has done a lot of

marketing of the spa within The Marion on Nicol

Hotel, as well as on the various spa booking

websites. She is in the process of approaching

corporates based in Sandton and Rosebank, and

is quite active on social media as well.

Fresh lookShe notes that several décor changes were made

to the existing spa before it re-opened and that

her new team of therapists is experienced and

passionate.

“The quality of treatments offered is at a very high

standard. We have the know-how to ensure that our

guests enjoy a bespoke experience that will melt away

the tension from their bodies, rejuvenate their tired

and over-worked minds, and restore their spirit,” states

Otieno-Osanya.

Results-focused products and treatments that cater

to the specific needs of guests were carefully selected.

According to Otieno-Osanya, the QMS Medicosmetics

skincare collection has been designed to effectively treat

damaged and ageing skin on the face and body, returning

it to a more youthful and healthy state.

“We also offer the Babor range, which is developed using

pure, natural plant oils and extracts, resulting in innovative

and highly effective skincare products designed to meet a

broad range of needs,” she comments.

At the moment the spa offers the standard massages

that are found at most spas.

“However, we plan to introduce new specialty massage

treatments as we go along. The idea was to start off small

and grow as time goes on.

“Currently our main business comes from massages,

pedicures, manicures and nail treatments,” concludes

Otieno-Osanya. PB

SPA AT A GLANCE Opened: 1 February 2016

Owner: Sheila Otieno-Osanya

Size: 134 square metres

Number of treatment rooms: 2 couples’ treatment rooms; 1 gazebo suite; manicure & pedicure lounge

Hydro facilities: sauna, steam room, hydrotherapy room

Number of therapists: spa manager/back up therapist; 3 multi-skilled therapists; 1 nail tech assisted by 3 freelance multi-skilled therapists

Brands: QMS Medicosmetics, Babor, OPI, ItalWax, Harnn

7 SUPER-CHARGED FACIALS. 5 TECHNOLOGIES. 1 MACHINE.

SOUTH AFRICAT: +27 (0) 21 442 7700 E: [email protected]

CALL NOW FOR MORE INFORMATION +27 (0) 21 442 7700

ULTRASONICPEEL

MICRO CURRENT LIFT

GALVANIC REJUVENATE

LIGHT THERAPY REBALANCE

O2 INFUSION

THE UNIQUE FUSION OF ACTIVES, TOUCH & TECHNOLOGY.

PCGELEMIS004.indd 1 21/11/2014 11:47


33 treatment review – hydrating facial

When I arrived at the

offices of Elemis

distributor, The

Prestige Cosmetics

Group, in Hyde

Park, Johannesburg, I was excited to

learn that my treatment would include

two bio-electrical modalities, namely

ultrasound and galvanic.

These are two of the five

technologies incorporated into Elemis’

Biotec machine, which can be found in

a number of spas in South Africa.

Elemis’ National Training and

Development Manager, Samantha Van

Hasselt, noted that the best way to

treat dehydrated skin is to combine

hyaluronic acid and galvanic.

She commenced the treatment

by cleansing my eyes with the White

Flowers Eye & Lip Make-up Remover,

a bi-phasic cleanser that can remove

waterproof make-up. She then applied

the Pro Collagen Cleansing Balm, a very

luxurious cleanser which contains rose

and mimosa waxes and nine different

essential oils, including lavender.

Van Hasselt went on to explain

that in this particular facial, the Biotec

machine’s ultrasound modality replaces

the exfoliation stage. “The ultrasound

applicator has four ceramic plates that

vibrate and generate 27000 vibrations

per second, which cause impurities

to dislodge, plus it is also mildly

resurfacing. We will set the device to

15% for your face and then reduce it

to 5% for around the eyes.”

She applied Soothing Apricot

Toner to provide glide for the

ultrasound. After about eight

minutes, the ultrasound was turned

off and Van Hasselt applied the

Lavender Skin Bliss capsules, which

she described as a “detox for the

face”.

“The capsules contain Moringa Oil,

which is very rich in anti-oxidants. I'm

also going to use Japanese Camellia

Oil on the neck and décolleté. This

pro plant collagen source is a great

for skin elasticity,” said Van Hasselt.

Following a relaxing neck,

shoulders and facial massage came

the application of the Radiance

Activator, a product comprised of

concentrated essential oils containing

antioxidants and peptides.

Now it was time for the galvanic

phase, which is combined with the

application of hyaluronic acid in the

form of the Hydro-Active Soothing

Gel Mask.

“The Biotec’s galvanic modality is

essentially a form of iontophoresis.

So, we will first apply negative current

to propel the active ingredients into

the skin, followed by positive current

to seal in the ingredients,” she said.

This phase felt amazing, as I could

feel the hyaluronic acid from the

Hydro-Active Soothing Gel Mask

penetrate deeply into my skin.

Next was the Amino Active Mask,

with some Pro Collagen Advanced Eye

cream applied to the eyes. Van Hasselt

performed a head massage during this

phase.

To end off the treatment, Van

Hasselt applied Pro Collagen Eye

Renewal, followed by Pro Radiance

Flash Balm, which is used as a serum,

and Pro Collagen Marine Cream.

This was a really hydrating facial.

My skin had felt so dry beforehand

and it now felt absolutely amazing.PB

The big skin renewalPlagued by dehydrated, ‘wintery’ skin, Debra Rheeders opts for the elemis Biotec Radiance Renewal Treatment to rectify the situation.

Contact Elemis: 021 442 7700

Cleanse

Ultrasound Galvanic

Amino Active Mask

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the Professional Expert Strength category!

Formulated to actively address the most challenging skin concerns, this system is

ideal for skin therapists who want:

+ enhanced product penetration and performance

+ advanced skin health solutions with visible results

+ limitless possibilities for treatment personalisation

+ highly-memorable sensorial experiences for clients

Get ready to shake things up and build your business success with amazing products and treatments that deliver results.

Today is the day! Take the fi rst step toward becoming a Dermalogica stockist and join our tribe of passionate skin

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IonActive™ System

NEW


35 treatment review – hydrating facial

My treatment took

place at Dermalogica’s

head offices in Illovo,

Johannesburg, where

training specialist, Ilze

Erasmus, explained that the IonActive

Power Treatment can be customised

for each particular skin condition.

“There are five IonActive treatments

– Anti-ageing, Acne, Pigmentation,

Hydration and Sensitised Skin,” said

Erasmus. “In your case we will focus

on the anti-ageing Retinol (1%)

treatment.”

She commenced the treatment,

noting that Dermalogica always

does a double cleanse, starting with

Precleanse, an oil-based water soluble

cleanser, followed by the Age Smart

Skin Resurfacing Cleanser.

“This cleanser contains some

lactic acid and not only begins the

exfoliation process, but is also quite

hydrating,” said Erasmus.

Once my face was clean, Erasmus

performed Dermalogica’s renowned

Face Mapping skin analysis, where the

face is divided up into 14 zones and

scrutinised. She noted that my skin

was a little dehydrated on my cheeks

and that I had some signs of

pigmentation on my face.

Erasmus then moved onto the

exfoliation phase of the treatment

and applied Colloidal Masque

Base around the lips and eyes for

hydration.

“I’m going to use the Age Smart

Multivitamin Power Exfoliation, which

is an advanced level of exfoliation as

it contains both retinol and lactic

acid,” stated Erasmus.

It was left on for three minutes

and I felt a mild tingling sensation

on my face. To remove the exfoliator,

Erasmus used the Precleanse and

Special Cleansing Gel.

My skin was now ready for

the Retinol IonActive phase. Said

Erasmus: “We recommend that

therapists use electrical modalities

with this phase, to ensure optimum

penetration of the retinol. I’m

going to use the bt-micro from Bio-

Therapeutc, a low level ultrasound

and micro-current device, on its

‘Serum’ setting. Therapists could also

use iontophoresis for this phase.”

The procedure lasted for three

minutes and was followed by a five-

minute massage, to push any excess

retinol into the skin.

Next came the Exothermal Gelloid,

applied over the retinol, and left on

for 15 minutes. In the first half of this

phase, the therapist has to do some

sort of heat treatment, like a hot

stone massage. In my case Erasmus

performed a European style massage,

with a friction and kneading action

that generates heat.

To complete my treatment, Erasmus

removed the Exothermal Gelloid

with hot mitts and spritzed my skin

with the Antioxidant Hydramist. She

then applied an eye treatment – the

Multivitamin Power Film – followed

by the Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF50

moisturiser.

I just loved how my skin looked after

the treatment – it was plumped up,

more hydrated and literally glowed. I

thought it a stunning facial. PB

A power-filled Marina Kopp tries Dermalogica’s brand newIonActive Power Treatment, which launches to the professional market in June.

Contact Dermalogica: 011 268 0018

facial

Exothermal Gelloid applied with spatula

Face mapping Ion retinol electrical modality

Pre-cleanse


36 dehydrated skin

Babor’s Lipid Intense Cream,

part of the SkinovagePX

Vita Balance range, contains

intensively moisturising

active ingredients and

selected lipids to treat dry, flaky skin that

feels unpleasantly tight.

Hyaluronic acid in two molecular

weights stores moisture in the skin, while

pomegranate extract stimulates the

growth of very fine transcellular water

channels (so-called aquaporins), thus

Winter takes its tollimproving the distribution of water in the

skin. All this is combined with pure, natural

oils, alpine stem cells and the active catalyst,

Osmo Tec, to keep your skin smooth, soft and

supple.

Sea reliefThalgo recently launched its latest innovation

to combat dry and sensitive skin for both

the face and body. Comprised of micro-

algae, marine wax and Sève Bleue des

Océans, Thalgo Cold Cream Marine efficiently

Along with the onset of winter comes the battle to keep our skin sufficiently moisturised, as the dry air compromises the skin’s barrier and the use of heaters compounds the situation. Joanna Sterkowicz looks at the many solutions for this uncomfortable skin condition.


37 dehydrated skin

replenishes, soothes

and repairs the skin.

A pioneer in

marine cosmetics, the

Thalgo Laboratory

has discovered a

phytoplanktonmicro-

algae oil with a unique

ability to ‘bio-accumulate’

lipids. This oil contains

a high concentration

(up to 30%) of EPA-type

Omega-3 fatty acids, the rarest and most complex

essential fatty acids for our bodies to synthesise.

The marine-origin EPAs havedemonstrated

exceptional affinity with the skin structures, as well

as unparalleled bio-assimilation potential.

In addition, soothing marine wax in Cold Cream

Marine contains a high concentration of Laminaria

Ochroleuca brown macro-algae extract, which

helps to reinforce the skin’s natural defences. Sève

Bleue des Océans is a remineralising ‘beauty water’

that contains 14 times more Silicium, 12 times

more Manganese and eight times more Zinc than

traditional sea water.

Potent kitBased on the restorative power of hyaluronic

acid (HA), Black Pearl’s innovative skincare kit,

comprising Hyaluronic Youth Renewal Eye Cream,

Hyaluronic Nutritive Facial Serum, and Hyaluronic

Restorative Night Cream, offers an effective

approach to skin renewal, reducing the appearance

of fine lines and wrinkles for a revived look and

silky, smooth feel.

“HA is a vital component of younger looking,

beautiful skin,” says Black Pearl South Africa’s

Michelle Roberts. “It preserves moisture, enhances

skin repair, boosts collagen and elastin, and

protects the skin with a natural, supportive barrier

against the elements.

Exclusive innovationDry and sensitive skin

cold crEam marinE

ReplenishesSoothes • Repairs

FACE - BODY

“Designed for mature skin, these HA-based

formulas from Black Pearl are fortified with

LipigenineTM, a rich, innovative moisturising

agent that maintains the skin’s natural lipid

balance and protects against dryness for a

smoother skin effect.”

The anti-ageing action of ChronogenTM

is designed to optimise the skin’s natural

regenerative cycles for an enhanced anti-ageing

effect that supports the skin’s repair mechanisms

and reduces signs of ageing.

“A boost of Resveratrol, bursting with natural

plant antioxidants that help to fight free radicals,

works together with soothing plant oils, vitamins

A, E and pro-vitamin B5, pure minerals, and hydra-

rich squalane, extracted from organic olives,

for improved skin flexibility, enhanced moisture

balance and naturally youthful luminosity,” says

Roberts.

Therapeutic careAccording to Belinda Wesson of Wesson

Therapeutics, the Resurfacing Balm and

the Squalane Complex are invaluable for

protecting dehydrated skin against trans-

epidermal water loss.

“The Wesson Therapeutics Resurfacing

Balm is the preferred option for day-time use,

since the plant waxes in the formulation offer

an invisible shield against the elements,” she

continues. “Used at night over the chosen

night cream, the Squalane Complex contains

a plant-based extract that mimics the skin’s

own sebum and increases the skin’s resilience

by restoring the equilibrium of moisture and

lipids.”

Also from Wesson Therapeutics, the

Repair Serum, with hyaluronic acid and aloe

vera, offers active hydration while soothing

sensitive skin. The Recovery Cream, with its

high concentration of aloe and ceramide II,

is an ideal moisturiser for sensitive, allergy-

prone skin. R


38 dehydrated skin

Subtle actionDehydrated skin often revolts

against the use of rich treatment

creams. Vitaderm believes that the

secret to addressing dehydration is

to use a light, effective moisturiser

with a miniscule amount of

Vitaderm’s Enviro-Shield applied

over the moisturiser, to prevent

loss of moisture.

The brand’s Aromatic Complexes are ideally suited

to application over the night cream, whereas the

Enviro-Shield is preferable for use during the day, since

the plant waxes in the formulation offer unbeatable

protection against trans-epidermal water loss.

RevivalTo revive dry skin Ursula Hunt of DermaFix

recommends the multi-functional Vitamin

Therapy Masque.

She says: “This is a light,

nutrient-rich masque, which can

be left on and offers superior

hydration by drawing in

moisture, while assisting to

calm skin sensitivity often

associated with a winter

skin. The silk-like feel is

derived by the inclusion of

smart technology Vitamin

A, Allantoin, Chamomile,

Tocopheryl Acetate,

Panthenol and other

superior ingredients to give

the sensorial feel of lightness, while offering intensive

moisturisation.”

Hunt notes that DermaFix Argan Oil is a 100% pure,

Ecocert and Natrue certified source of essential fatty

acids, a deficiency of which leads to skin dryness.

“Our Argan Oil quickly absorbs into the skin and

supplies it with Vitamin A and Vitamin E, both well

documented for barrier protective and anti-oxidant

properties that neutralise free radicals. This pure

oil with the high proportion of Omega-6 Fatty

acids promotes the passage of oxygen through cell

membranes, which has a regenerative effect on the

skin. DermaFix Argan Oil may be used as a moisturiser

or alongside an existing moisturiser for an additional

moisture boost.”

In an instantThe I.N.S.T.A.N.T. mask from pHformula leaves skin

noticeably radiant and glowing by gently resurfacing

and leaving it smoother, brighter, and softer.

While providing tighter skin texture and tighter

pores, the I.N.S.T.A.N.T. mask results in a more youthful

appearance and absorbs impurities without removing

natural oils. The antioxidant effects of Ferulic Acid

instantly revitalise

the skin, as well as

lighten and brighten

discoloured skin. It

also aids the skin’s

ability to heal, repair,

and protect itself from

free radical assault.

Maximum maskDermalogica’s Skin Hydrating

Masque is a refreshing, moisturising

masque to remedy dry, stressed skin.

Cross-linked hyaluronic acid traps

moisture to deliver time-released

hydration for lasting suppleness.

The product helps stimulate the

skin’s natural moisturising factor,

while lycopene-rich tomato seed

lipids help restore skin’s protective

barrier, enhancing moisture levels

for healthier, smoother skin. It

is formulated without artificial

fragrances and colours.

The Ultracalming Serum

Concentrate from Dermalogica helps

calm, restore and defend sensitised

skin. Dermalogica’s exclusive UltraCalmingTM

Complex contains oat and botanical actives that

work below the surface to interrupt inflammatory

triggers that lead to sensitisation, while helping to

minimise discomfort, burning and itching. It restores

the skin’s natural lipid barrier and helps defend

against future assaults with Oil of Evening Primrose,

Sunflower Seed and Avocado extracts.

Dynamic duoPhytomer’s advanced research has revealed a

way to reinforce the skin’s water reservoir with an

original duo of marine ingredients – weaving algae to

combat dehydration and glasswort oil with its thirst

quenching effect.

Hydra Original is a deliciously velvety light R

AMPOULE CONCENTRATESFP

#oftencopiednevermatched

BABOR South AfricaTelephone: 011 467 0110 • Email: [email protected] • Website: www.babor.co.za

babor.co.za

SouthAfrica_Ampoulle_4er_Anz_210x297_GB.indd 1 03.03.16 13:43


40 dehydrated skin

textured cream that delivers intense and lasting

hydration for comfortable, visibly plumped, and

radiant skin.

The Rosee Soin Radiance Replenishing Oil

from Phytomer comprises an unprecedented

cocktail of beneficial oils such as D-Tox Microalgae

Oil (brightening), rose oil (soothing), gorse oil

(rehydrating) and jojoba oil (nourishing).

Water clinicA true water reservoir,

the Hydra Clinic Aquafix

Serum MPC30 from

Ericson Laboratoire

instantly compensates

for the skin’s water

deficiencies. Its hydro-

gel formula maintains

a maximum level of

hydration by bind-

ing water in the

tissues. The skin is

hydratedcontinuously

and the tissues are

plumped up from within.

This serum leaves the

skin feeling fresh and

velvety.

Ericson Laboratoire’s Aquajet Fluid AQP-3 bathes

the skin in freshness and beneficial hydration. Its

fine and dissolvable texture is easily absorbed and

quenches the skin in-depth.

Enriching productsDanish brand Beauté Pacifique battles dry skin with

the Enriched Cleansing Milk, which gently loosens

dead skin cells, leaving

the skin healthy and

radiant. It contains Lemon

Extract which stimu lates

collagen synthesis. The

Enriched Toner – Dry Skin

is an alcohol-free toner

formulated with Aloe

Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Powder to soothe and heal.

In addition, the Enriched

Moisturizing Crème – All

Skin Types renews softness

of the skin and contains

Lanolin.

Also from Beauté

Pacifique, the Instant

Hydrating Mask recovers

lost moisture and contains

Retinyl Palmiate, a very

stable form of Vitamin A.

The plus factorThe Super Moisturiser +, part of Environ’s

Intensive range which offers targeted skin rescue

solutions, is a creamy, soothing moisturiser

containing ingredients that rehydrate dry

skin, leaving it looking healthy and beautiful.

It is easily absorbed, leaving the skin feeling

comfortable hydrated and smooth. This product

restores the natural balance of the skin and helps

to prevent a tight, dried out feeling, giving the

skin a luxurious, silky after feel.

Super Moisturiser + contains a special blend

of scientifically researched ingredients such as

Revidrate, Pentavitin and pro-vitamin B5, which

41

Professional Beauty June 2016

dehydrated skin

have been proven

to enhance natural

moisturising factors,

as well as protect

and retain the skin’s

moisture levels.

The Focus

Hydrating Serum is a

highly concentrated

hydrating serum

containing hyaluronic

acid that helps

boost hydration

levels and creates

the appearance of a

smoother looking and

plumper skin.

Also from Environ,

Derma-Lac Lotion is a

light, easy to apply lotion that energises dull and

tired looking skin as it contains several essential

ingredients known for their effective moisturising

properties. Skin is left feeling soft and smooth

and looking beautifully healthy.

lipid replacementLamelle Research Laboratories has developed

the Serra Range, an innovative lipid replacement

therapy that exactly mimics the structure and

function of the natural lipid bi-layer, which

is critical in terms of maintaining a healthy

epidermis or top-most skin layer.

Says Dr Bradley Wagemaker, medical director,

Lamelle Research Laboratories, “Where regular

moisturisers create a layer of moisture on the

surface of your

skin, Serra actually

recreates the

human skin barrier,

essentially replacing

what is missing and

eliminating the root

cause of dry skin.

“Serra causes a

permanent change in

your skin’s behaviour

and is not simply a

temporary ‘band aid’ to

a dry skin problem that

still remains after you

have washed off your

regular moisturiser.” PB


42 oils

The Mio Fit Skin for Life

and Mama Mio Pregnancy

Expert products are high

in omega oils from the

purest sources, such as

almond oil, argan oil, safflower seed

oil, jojoba and calendula oil.

“Omega oils are known for their

regenerating and healing properties

when applied to the skin. They are

essential fatty acids and needed

to feed and nourish the skin for

optimal function. They also have

anti-inflammatory, anti-ageing and

nourishing properties,” say the

experts at Mio, noting that their

products are free from parabens,

petrolatum, mineral oil, synthetic

fragrances, artificial colorants,

sodium laureth, lauryl sulphate or

glycols.

Mio has its own trademark blend

of essential oils known as V-Tonic

(a stimulating blend of essential

oils that have an affinity for tired

muscles) and Gravida (a blend of 10

pregnancy specific essential oils).

.Holistic combination- The Homeopathic Aromatherapy

range from Lilian Terry International

(LTI) combines homeopathic

remedies, essential oils and carrier

oils that are pre-blended, resulting

in pure energy healing complexes

which, when used through massage

or reflexology, enable almost

immediate penetration through the

skin and mucous membranes to

activate the cell receptors.

“Our Homeopathic Aromatherapy

complexes ensure powerful results

through high levels of cellular

detoxification, improved blood

circulation and lymph drainage and

the supply of oxygen to the tissue. In

addition, the LTI complexes have no

emotional or physical burn-out, as it

is a self-regulating therapy whereby

the energy level of the client and

the therapist remains the same,

while the homeopathic ingredients

decrease the possibility of an allergic

reaction to essential oils,” comments

Lilian Terry International’s general

manager, Carli Argirova.

.Eyes shut- Sparitual Close Your Eyes Body Oil

Egyptian Geranium contains several

certified organic oils, including

Egyptian geranium essential oil,

safflower seed oil, olive fruit oil and

jojoba seed oil.

This combination of oils helps

to ease stress, anxiety and tension

and has conditioning, moisturising

and hydrating properties. It gently

penetrates skin to relieve tightness

and discomfort.

.Watermelon- The Rooibos & Honey Hand & Body

Balm from the Milk Solutions Garden

Range contains grape seed oil and

watermelon seed oil. Tests have

confirmed that this product is safe

for use on sensitive skins.

“Watermelon seed oil has emollient

properties, making it a wonderful

moisturiser for both oily and dry

skin,” says Milk Solutions founder,

Oils, whether they be massage oils or ingredients found in professional products used for nourishing and moisturising body treatments, are an integral part of the spa and/or salon offering, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

Striking

oil

43

.Seductive oil- The Goddess Dry Oil from Purles is a

nourishing product designed for both body

and face. It comprises a synergy of

three oils (jojoba, apricot kernel and

sweet almond) to ensure amazing results

immediately after application. Skin is left

radiant, nourished and smoothed.

Caviar extract, rich in vitamins,

microelements and amino acids, delays the

ageing process. The product is absorbed

quickly, leaving no oily film on the skin. PB

oils

Karen Ellithorne. “Furthermore it

has superb antioxidant capacity

as it does not go rancid, even after

years. This demonstrates its superb

antioxidant capacity.

“The application of this oil on

the skin generates an anti-ageing

action by providing direct nutrition

to skin and protecting it from free

radicals. It is also detoxifying and

anti-inflammatory.”

.Energetic product-Babor Spa Energising Lime

Mandarin Invigorating Massage &

Bath Oil arouses all the senses and

includes stem cell extracts from

the champagne pear to protect

the skin against the stresses of the

environment and from seasonal

changes.

This massage and bath oil in

one cares for the skin with almond,

sunflower, macadamia nut and rice

germ oils, leaving the skin nourished,

supple and soft as it is instantly

absorbed.

Before

After

Treatment LiabilityPublic LiabilityProduct LiabilitySuper competitive rates underwritten by Zurich Insurance

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47 peeling

The combination of micro-

needling and chemical

peeling in a single

treatment is called the

‘Pixel-Peel’ and was

created by Barcelona-based Dr

Philippe Deprez, founder of Skin Tech

and my ultimate hero.

Dr Deprez cleansed the skin,

needled it and immediately applied

a TCA (Trichloroacetic Acid) peel to

the freshly needled skin. His formula

contained a 15% TCA with Lidocaine

used as a numbing agent so that the

patient would not feel a thing. Dr

Deprez applied two layers of the peel.

Since Dr Deprez’s demonstration,

the combination of micro-needling

followed by a TCA application has

become very popular. I personally

like to do this combination in my

clinic on the arms, chest or legs.

The skin here is thicker and often

has been damaged by excessive sun

exposure. I get really great results

after four to six treatments. However,

I have not yet tried this on the face,

and do recommend a course of

treatments, alternating the chemical

peeling with micro-needling.

I would normally recommend this

intensive course of treatments for

acne scars, severe photo-ageing and

hyperpigmentation.

TCA is a common peeling agent

that comes in a variety of strengths,

from 5% to 10%, 15%, 20%, 25% etc. It

has many benefits, being non-toxic,

stable, easy to use and with the

ability to create a variety of results.

TCA penetrates the papillary dermis,

or the upper reticular dermis, when

a full frost is achieved. The frost

is the result of the chemical TCA

coagulating the protein in the skin

(like frying an egg). TCA is easy

to use and provides a predictable

medium-depth peel.

It is mostly used in the medical

setting, but there are a few

salon brands that provide the

therapist with TCA solutions.

Beyond the face Chemical peels are no longer just

focused to treat the face. In the

medical setting we include the

neck, chest, back, arms, hands, feet,

legs and even the eye areas. Any

area of skin that has damage which

the patient wants treated. In my

experience I have found that TCA

works best on the chest, hands, feet,

arms, legs and the eyes.

According to Dr Deprez, the

delicate eye lids respond best to TCA

peels and less well to Glycolic Acid.

He says for some reason this skin

just doesn’t respond well to Glycolic

Acid. I have done a few TCA eye

peels with great results, especially

if the eye area is very wrinkled, with

dull skin.

The principles that are to be taken

into consideration before peeling

the skin are: the skin condition, skin

type (Fitzpatrick photo types), the

ageing factor, and the client’s general

health. This helps the therapist in

selecting the proper candidates

for peel treatments, as well as the

appropriate solution or product for

optimum results. PB

Sonette Donker is the owner of Skin iD and an internationally qualified professional skincare therapist. She has 20 years of experience, having worked for Dermalogica, Nimue Skin International, Skin Rejuvenation Technologies and pHformula.

The big peel reveal It has become very popular in the medical setting to combine micro-needling with a chemical peel in one treatment, writes Sonette Donker.

Treatment LiabilityPublic LiabilityProduct LiabilitySuper competitive rates underwritten by Zurich Insurance

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peeling

48

The chemical peel is

one of the most honest

skincare treatments

around in that it does

not hide behind a fancy

name, says Dr Bradley Wagemaker,

medical director of Lamelle Research

Laboratories.

“Chemical peeling is exactly

what it says – a chemical solution

that harnesses your body’s natural

processes of renewal, which can

largely be summed up as discarding

old skin cells to make space for new

ones. In other words, it causes the

skin to peel so that new skin can

grow in its place.

“The idea of peeling away small

amounts of skin might sound scary

initially, but chemical peels are one

of the most common treatments for

correcting skin and achieving visible

results – especially in winter, when

skin needs a bit of a lift – simply

because they have proven so very

effective in rectifying damage and

renewing skin.

“Different chemical types have

their own properties, but generally,

chemical peel acids penetrate the

skin and break the bonds between

the layers of skin, so the top layers

will start peeling off. The type of

peel, its concentration, and the exact

chemical composition will determine

how deep it penetrates (and thus

how deep the peel is),” explains

Wagemaker.

He notes that glycolic acid peels

are one of the mildest and most

popular peel types, largely because

glycolic acid is a natural substance

found in sugar cane that is part of

the fruit acid family – also called

AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid).

“Lactic acid, an AHA, is not

exactly a peel per se: it’s actually a

powerful chemical exfoliator, while

salicylic acid is a BHA (beta-hydroxy

acid) peel and is a bit stronger and

penetrates a little deeper into the

skin for more dramatic results.

“Retinoic acid is very closely

related chemically to Vitamin A,

and is widely used in medicine to

regulate cell growth. It is a slightly

deeper peel than BHA peels, but has

the added benefit of really boosting

new tissue growth and is often used

in conjunction with BHA peels.

TCA (trichloroacetic acid) peels

are stronger and give much deeper

penetration, with more noticeable

results,” comments Wagemaker.

Marine intelligenceMCEUTIC from Thalgo, a brand

known for its pioneering marine

intelligence, provides the first

professional cosmeceutical products

inspired by the medical world with

the patented ingredients, Marine

Mesolift and Neo-Skin.

The range, Renovation Radicale,

is the first MCEUTIC corrective

what lies beneathPeels are proving to be a very popular service at salons and aesthetics clinics as they can improve the quality, texture and tone of skin. But they are only to be performed with extreme care by certified skincare professionals so as to avoid any side-effects, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

Pic

: Env

iro

n C

oo

l Pee

l


49 peeling

solution which targets the causes of

blemishes and irregularities that are

resistant to conventional cosmetics,

to restore the skin’s health and

smoothness.

Marine Mesolift’s bio-regenerative

infusion boosts cell metabolism and

preserves the skin’s youthfulness by

mimicking an ‘injection’ type effect.

Alongside this, Neo-Skin combines

Buchu Leaf, Brown Macroalgae and

Green Microalgae to extract and

correct severe blemishes and deep

irregularities to restore perfect skin

balance and optimal skin quality.

Dermatologist examinations of

Renovation Radicale have confirmed

the following results: reduction in

surface irregularities; clearer and

brighter complexion; reduction in

marks and scars; tighter pores; and

finer skin texture.

The benefits of an MCeutic facial

include little to no downtime, which

allows for the perfect lunchtime peel

solution. There are three strengths of

peel to choose from, depending on

the severity of the skin condition.

Ten plus tenDoctor Babor’s Refine

Cellular AHA 10+10

Peeling Gel is positioned

as the next generation

of fruit acid peels.

The ultimate Efolimax

formula combines 10%

precisely coordinated

fruit acids with 10%

of the most effective

antioxidants.

This synergistic

combination of

intensive exfoliation and

effective protection allows new skin

to emerge faster, and protects it

against premature aging. Clients can

look more radiant and revitalised

after just one application.

Below the surfaceThe BioSurface Peel is a powerful

skin resurfacing system from

Dermalogica that helps reduce acne,

pigmentation and signs of premature

ageing to reveal smoother, brighter

and softer skin. It is designed to

work with the skin’s chemistry, not

against it, and removes the dull outer

layers of skin and helps the skin

underneath to regenerate.

In general, the BioSurface Peel

can be tailored to address skin

roughness; signs of photodamage;

fine lines and wrinkles; acne

breakouts; skin congestion; and

some forms of hyperpigmentation

and unbalanced skin tone.

A really ‘cool’ peel Developed by the world renowned

plastic surgeon, Dr Desmond

Fernandes, the Cool Peel system is

bound to assist to reveal a radiant

skin, says Environ education

manager, Qanita Jacobs.

“The Environ Cool Peel system

is unique in its formulation because

as the water molecules evaporate, it

will leave the skin feeling cool, unlike

conventional peels,” continues

Jacobs. “This system is easy and

safe to use and may be tailored to

suit different skins and photo types,

with no downtime. It is preferable to

offer milder peels more frequently

and a series of light peels minimises

the destruction of the epidermis.”

She notes that a course of peels

could assist with improving the

texture of the skin and combatting

the visible signs of ageing and sun

damage, as well as the appearance

of blemish-prone skin. Consequently,

the skin may appear more refined

and radiant.

“When preparing the skin for

an Environ Cool Peel treatment,

the client should start with using

Environ Vitamin A moisturisers for

a minimum of three weeks prior

to the treatment. Please consult

with a qualified Environ skincare

therapist to assist you with the best

recommendation while following

Environ’s unique step-up system.

“Extra precaution should be taken

post peel. For example, avoid sun

exposure for the following seven

days, and ensure that you use

Environ sunscreen RAD SPF 15 for

added protection. In addition, avoid

exercise and swimming for 24 hours

as the chemicals could irritate the

skin. Do not rub or irritate the skin or

use AHAs on the skin for at least 24

hours,” states Jacobs.

Environ recommends that Cool

Peel clients add the following

to their regime: Original Range

Moisturising Gel; Original Range

Balancing Masque; Intensive Range

Super Moisturiser +; Intensive Range

Colostrum Gel; and Sun Care Range

RAD SPF 15.

Progressive processUrsula Hunt of DermaFix explains

that progressive skin peeling

refers to increasing the intensity of

chemical peels over time.

“A series of six peels is typically

Pic

: MC

euti

c

R


50 peeling

performed where the depth

of resurfacing is progressively

increased. This is done through

the use of very superficial peels in

the beginning, which penetrate the

stratum corneum and possibly the

upper layers of the stratum spinosum

in the epidermis. Superficial peels

penetrate the entire epidermis and

possibly the papillary dermis. The

effect on the skin is desquamation

and acceleration of the epidermal

renewal process,” says Hunt.

She points out that Fitzpatrick

skin types (IV –V1) usually require

more gentle peels than the lighter

Fitzpatrick skin types (1-111), due

to the greater risk of pigmentary

changes such as PIH (Post

Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation).

“Mandelic acid, an AHA, is found

in our DermaFix DermaBright,

which offers a superficial mini-peel

noted for its superior results in the

improvement of hyperpigmentation

and acne.

“The BHA, salicylic acid,

is commonly used in peeling

formulations. It has a mild anaesthetic

effect on the skin, highly effective

for the improvement of acne and

it assists to refine problematic

breakouts. TCA (trichloracetic acid)

peels range from superficial to deep,

depending on the acid concentration

required for anti-ageing and photo-

damaged skin. We never use a

concentration higher than 15%.

“A vitamin A propionate peel

can be used as a standalone,

but more often it is used as a

‘booster’ and layered over the other

abovementioned superficial peels.

The DermaFix Progressive 3 or 4

stage peel makes use of AHA, BHA,

TCA, and Vitamin A Propionate as,

used in combination, it will benefit

most skin problems with a single

peel,” comments Hunt.

She concludes by saying that

the goal of peeling the skin is to

continue increasing the intensity of

each subsequent peeling protocol,

based on the skin reactivity and

tolerance to each procedure, thus

offering superior results.

ResurfacingThe Sothys Resurfacing Peeling

Treatment is an effective double

exfoliation that combines detoxifying

manual microdermabrasion with

a 20% glycolic and bonded

salicylic acid peel to intensely

renew the skin. Complemented by

an oxygenating mask, it unveils

a smoother, softer and brighter

complexion.

“After only one treatment the

skin is visibly clear, smoother and

refined. All skin types can benefit

from this treatment unless your skin

is extremely sensitive. It’s ideal for

oily, dull and dry skin, fine lines and

wrinkles or hyperpigmentation,” say

the experts at Sothys.

Turbo-powered peelRégimA has combined the renowned

action of malic, lactic and citric acids

with advanced peel technology,

creating a new generation 6 Natural

Acid Turbo Peel.

Says RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt:

“With the addition of healing

ingredients such as Centella Asiatica

and D-Panthenol, this peel provides

so much more rejuvenating activity.

Importantly, this peel is safe to use

all year round and during pregnancy.

“Our new acid complex of peach

leaves, raspberry fruit and apple fruit

extracts does have AHA and BHA

action. They are in different forms

and concentrations, however, they

also perform other very important

activities on the skin, more than the

other concentrated acids. These

extracts are organic and there are no

side effects.

“The concentrated malic, lactic

and citric acids that we use within

the peels are the acids specifically

extracted (without extra elements)

and used at maximum strength

from the full plant material, which

can include the fruit, leaves, stems,

roots. There are different aspects to

extracting from specific parts of the

plants.”

Expert applicationFrom Anesi, the Aqua Vital Dermo

Peel Expert is an intensive exfoliating

treatment that resurfaces the skin

for a refreshing, radiant complexion.

Formulated with an enzymatic

peel of pineapple stem and marine

plankton, the peel also includes

Pic

: So

thys


51 peeling

allantion and horsetail extract to

regenerate and improve elasticity.

The skin is rejuvenated from a

cutaneous level and the peeling

effect lasts between three and four

days. It is safe for all skin types and

will assist with reducing fine lines

and wrinkles, enlarged pores. In

addition, it refines skin texture and

lightens pigmentation.

Anesi’s Infini Jeunesse Silglycol

eliminates and removes the surface

layers of ageing skin. It deeply

renovates the skin for a younger,

luminous and softer complexion

and boosts the production of new

collagen fibres, thus guaranteeing

the stabilisation of its synthesis. This

is thanks to the chemical combination

of 10% glycolic acid and organic

silicon. The Silglycol maintains the

skin’s optimum hydration level and

fades wrinkles, age spots and scars.

It reduces pigmentation marks and

evens the skin tone. The product

can be used in conjunction with any

Anesi facial for optimum results as

there is no downtime, redness, or

uncomfortable sensation on the skin.

AdvancesThe Priori Advanced AHA

Professional Peeling system is a

highly hydrating and anti-ageing

remedy. This intensive treatment

leaves the skin hydrated, revitalised

and nourished with multi-functional

vitamin antioxidants for protection

and anti-ageing benefits. The

added benefit is that skin requires

no healing after the treatment and

there is consequently no downtime.

Ideally this treatment can be

performed as a course of six

treatments, once per week for six

weeks.

Multi-faceted Sknlogic is launching its Multipeel

June. This AHA and BHA peel works

for wrinkles, hyperpigmentation,

dehydration and acne.

Multi-purpose and time-

dependent, this superficial peeling

agent provides a safe, controlled and

predictable procedure that gradually

removes surface skin

cells, resulting in an

improvement of skin

texture.

The Sknlogic

Multipeel utilises

both alpha and

beta hydroxy acids

with other active

ingredients to treat

the skin. As a result,

skin looks fresher

with less visible

damage such as fine

lines and dark spots.

Along with the

Multipeel, Sknlogic

will launch a Neautraliser.

Alternative solutionsApocalypsis Therapy from Juliette

Armand regenerates the skin by

deeply exfoliating and promoting

a more youthful appearance. It is

recommended for biological and

photo ageing, pigmentation and

acne skin. This treatment is based

on the combined exfoliation-

rejuvenation effects of spongilla,

fragilis and ephydatia herbs with

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs).

Juliette Armand also offers

alternative peeling solutions for

clients that are sensitive to acid

peeling. These peels include

phytopeeling combined with Zinc

Oxide to form a powdered mask for

acne and oil control.

Original herbal peelIn contrast to chemical peels, the

Green Peel from Dr. med. Christine

Schrammek derma.cosmetics

comprises a special mixture of

various herbs and algae that are rich

in minerals, enzymes and vitamins,

to help skin regain a new and fresh

appearance.

“This mixture is massaged into

the client’s skin using a special

technique by a Green Peel certified

aesthetician,” says Victoria Wagner of

distributor, Evolution Cosmetic. The

upper layers of the skin are removed

by the microparticles of the herbs.

This increases the skin’s receptiveness

and stimulates cell renewal.

“Because there are no harmful

chemicals or synthetic abrasives in the

formula, the level of tolerability is very

high. There are three classes of Green

Peel – Classic (skin renewal); Energy

(stimulating the skin); and Fresh Up

(illuminating the skin).” PB

Chemical peeling is exactly what it says – a chemical solution that harnesses your body’s natural processes of renewal, which can largely be summed up as discarding old skin cells to make space for new ones. Dr Bradley Wagemaker

“”


product focus – peeling after care

52

Sensitiveto the touch

The growth factorIdeal for restoring dermal balance after

any peel, Anesi’s Cell Reveil EGF contains

epidermal growth factors at their maximum

concentration to stimulate cell regeneration.

This serum reconstructs damaged cells and

promotes skin rejuvenation, resulting in

increased skin thickness and elasticity. It has

nutritional and softening properties.

011 791 4027

Full forceFor post-peel care

DermaFix recommends

ACC Hyaluronic Gel;

DermaFix ACC Copper

(copper peptides assist

in accelerating the

skin’s wound-healing);

DermaFix Vitamin

C Serum (with anti-

inflammatory properties);

and DermaShield SPF 50

High Protection UVA/

UVB Sunscreen (SANS

1557:2013 and ISO24444,

ISO4443 approved).

0861 28 23 23

Ultimate protection From the Doctor Babor Derma Cellular range, the Ultimate

Protecting Balm SPF 50 is a professional sun protection balm

for sensitive skin. The balm does not contain any perfumes

or colourants, and has an extra-sensitive formula. It therefore

gently moisturises any skin type as well as protects.

011 467 0110

skin that has undergone a peel is in its most vulnerable state, requiring extra special care. An effective sunscreen is a priority, as is just the right amount of moisturisation and soothing ingredients to avoid irritating the exposed, immature skin cells.

Serious serumDNA Repair Serum from

Juliette Armand is a

powerful regenerating

and healing serum that

protects the skin’s natural

defence function. The

serum identifies and repairs

damage to the DNA in our

cells. It should be used in

conjunction with the DNA

Repair 24-Hour Cream.

011 033 0500

53 product focus – peeling after care

Barrier bufferPriori Barrier Repair Complex strengthens and

repairs skin barrier function, and consequently

soothes and heals dry, red skin post-

peel. Key ingredients include ceramides,

cholesterol and essential fatty acids, all

combined in a silky emulsion designed to

enhance optimum skin moisturisation by

providing essential skin nutrients.

011 486 4904

Soothing protectionDr Schrammek Derma.Cosmetics Skin

Care created Blemish Balm to soothe

stressed skin and conceal redness

after a Green Peel treatment. Blemish

Balm boasts an anti-inflammatory

and calming effect and assists with a

variety of other skin problems, while

providing coverage and protection.

011 325 5849

Date: 28 & 29 August 2016

Venue: Gallagher Convention Centre

Opening Times: Sunday 10h00 – 18h00Monday 10h00 – 17h00

Increase your knowledge• Stage Demos • Hair Competition • Exhibitor Demos

✪ Introducing Sensational Seminar Sessions

Whether you are looking for personal or business growth, these attractions are not to be missed.Come along and gain invaluable advice from the top industry professionals on how you can make your efforts and creativity translate in a successful business.

Register now for your fRee ticket and save the R250 entry fee.

Salon Africa was previously known as Professional Hair

the event for your professional hair business

www.salonafrica.co.za

InSpIrIng toDay’S HaIrDrESSEr

the time for cHAnge is here!

SA hair ad2.indd 2 2016/05/17 9:01 AM


hair news

55

Crowning glory Tress-a-licious news

from the hair front.

Shine bright Moroccanoil Glimmer

Shine is a finishing spray

that attracts and reflects

light to give hair a

gorgeous gloss. Infused

with Argan oil, vitamins

and antioxidants, this

spray creates an invisible

veil of pure, luminous

shine which helps

protect hair against

harmful environmental

elements.

011 305 1600

Shaping the Futures Thirty young, aspiring hairdressers from previously

disadvantaged backgrounds graduated from the

Schwarzkopf Professional Shaping the Futures

training programme in Johannesburg on 13 April.

Co-ordinated by the Sharpeville Foundation,

Shaping the Futures comprises a free, six-week

training course.

011 203 0700

To the rescue!Paul Mitchell Ultimate Color Repair

Triple Rescue is a dual-phase spray

that protects against excessive heat

that can damage colour-treated hair

and lead to dull, faded strands. Triple

Rescue’s conditions hair with Quinoa

Color Repair complex, so hair looks

healthy, shiny and vibrant.

011 305 1600

Curly top Inoar Divine Curls

consists of a ‘low poo’

shampoo, conditioner,

finishing gel and mask

for curly hair. The

range is free of harmful

chemicals that cause

build-up on hair. It cleans

hair and hydrates it

without weighing the

hair down, thanks to

an ingredient extracted

from golden flax.

012 346 1721


56 medical aesthetics

Female Pattern Hair Loss

(FPHL) has a particular

‘pattern’ as opposed

to other forms of hair

loss, which may be more

diffuse (all over) or have distinctive

patterns themselves.

The condition is characterised

by a reduction in hair density over

the crown and frontal scalp, with

retention of the frontal hairline. In

1977, Ludwig clearly described the

distinctive features of FPHL and

classified it into three grades of

severity – Ludwig grades I, II, and III.

Forms of treatmentThe first thing to remember when

managing the hair loss patient is

the tremendous psychological

effect that the condition may

have on the patient. One needs to

be empathetic, give the patient

hope, but also be realistic about

expectations, and about the length

of time it takes to see improvement

on treatment.

Early diagnosis and initiation

of treatment is desirable as most

treatments are more effective at

arresting progression of hair loss

than stimulating regrowth. It is

also important to let the patient

know that any treatment will take

time to show results. Response

to treatment is usually measured

at six months and 12 months after

initiating treatment.

Fewer than 45% of women go through life with a full head of hair. Female Pattern Hair Loss (FPHL) is the most common cause of hair loss and prevalence increases with age, writes Dr Catherine Davies.

Managing FPHl

Some causesof hair loss Telogen Effluvium-A widespread yet gradual diffuse shedding or thinning of the hair, rather than in clumps or patches.Females who present with diffuse hair loss should always have a general examination and possibly blood tests. Diffuse hair loss is often triggered by underlying disorders such as thyroid, iron or hormonal imbalances. If the onset of hair loss is sudden, one must question the state of the patient three months prior to onset. Stresses such as illness, surgery and crash dieting can trigger this form of hair loss.

Traction alopecia-Hair loss along the front of the hair due to braiding, twisted dreadlocks or hair styles that continuously pull tight. The effect can be worsened by concomitant use of chemical relaxers.

Alopecia areata-Coin-sized bald patches appear

on the scalp due to auto immune

condition.

Scarring alopecia-Also known as cicatricial alopecia, usually caused by complications from another condition (and consequently, hair won’t grow back).

Anagen effluvium-Commonly a side effect of chemotherapy and other cancer treatments.

Trichotillomania-Self-inflicted hair loss caused by obsessively pulling out one’s own hair.



PharmaceuticalMinoxidil 2% is the only topical FDA

approved medication for hair loss. 1

ml of Minoxidil should be applied to

a clean dry scalp twice daily. It works

partly by causing vasodilation, thus

increasing blood flow to the hair

follicles.

It has minimal side effects,

but can cause an irritation to the

scalp, usually due to the propylene

glycol. With FPHL, therapy must be

continued indefintely.

NeutracuticalsCertain vitamins and minerals are

vital to maintain healthy hair, and

contribute to hair loss if absent, in

particular biotin, folic acid, silica and

iron.

A new promising deep sea

marine complex seems to halt

progression of FPHL by stimulating

proteoglycans – the molecules that

control the proliferation of hair

follicles.

MesotherapyIn-clinic treatments, such as

mesotherapy, are gaining popularity.

If you increase the nutrients,

vitamins, trace elements and amino

acids that the hair requires for

growth, it stands to reason that the

bulb will grow thicker.

Results depend on the ‘cocktail’

of substances in the mesotherapy

treatment, and are also enhanced

by the needling action, which

stimulates the hair follicle.

Different manufacturers will

use different preparations, but an

example cocktail might include:

• Vitamins– dexpanthenol (B5),

biotin (vitamin H), L-ascorbic

acid (vitamin C), vitamins A, E,

B1, B2, B6, B complex, and D

• Traceelements– cobalt,

copper, ginkgo biloba,

lithium, magnesium, manganese,

phosphorous, selenium, sulphur,

zinc

• Nutritionaldrugs– Centella

asiatica, silicon

• Hormone–calcitonin

• Anaesthetic–procaine

This type of therapy can elicit

good results in the treatment of

acute diffuse hair loss, such as

telogen effluvium, stress alopecia,

androgenetic hair loss and alopecia

areata. Patients typically undergo

one treatment every two weeks

over 10 weeks (i.e. five treatments

in total).

Platelet Rich PlasmaPRP involves drawing the patient’s

own blood and centrifuging it to

isolate the rich platelets, know as

the buffy coat. The rich platelets

are then activated and re-injected

into the patient’s scalp, at the exact

depth of the follicle. The body’s own

inherent ‘healing pathway’ then gets

to work on invigorating the follicle.

light therapyLow Level Light (LLL) therapy,

or photobiostimulation, has been

shown to be useful as an adjunct,

or add-on, when treating FPHL. The

action of LLL upon the skin is anti-

radical and anti-inflammatory, and

increases collagen synthesis, which

seems to yield a more effective

management of androgenic

alopecia.

Hair transplant surgeryThis is based around a principle

known as ‘donor dominance’. That

means the donor hair is dominant in

its characteristics.

So, you take hair from a donor

area – usually the back and sides of

the head – and the hair will retain

the characteristic from that area

regardless of where you put it.

Hair transplant surgery produces

‘excellent’ results in the treatment of

androgenic alopecia, provided that

the donor hair is in good condition.

Hair transplant is not indicated for

diffuse hair loss, to thicken ‘fine hair’

or for alopecia areata.

There are two methods of

removing the donor hair: follicular

unit transplantation (FUT) and

follicular unit extraction (FUE). The

former involves taking a strip of skin

from the back of the head, usually

around 1- 2cm wide, with the length

dependent on both how much hair

you need and the density of the

donor hair. The skin is then stitched

up, which can leave a linear scar,

which can usually be covered by

hair.

The latter, known as FUE, avoids

taking the whole piece of skin and

stitching it up. Each hair is removed

individually using a device that

makes tiny punches of around 0.8

to 1mm. The hairs or units are then

transplanted to areas of hair loss. It

can take up to 12 months to see the

full results of a hair transplant. PB

Dr Catherine Davies runs a medical practice in Illovo, Sandton, and has a special interest in hair restoration, skin rejuvenation and body shaping.

Ludwig Classification System: Female Pattern Hair Loss

Grade I Grade II Grade III


Also known as scalp micro-

pigmentation, tricopigmenta-

tion treatments are now

offered at Revitalab, Figure & Vigour,

a medical aesthetics clinic in Brooklyn,

Pretoria.

Tricopigmentation, which was

developed by Milena Lardì of Italian

company Beauty Medical, is akin to a

non-permanent tattoo on the scalp,

applied with a device that applies

brown pigment onto the scalp, dot by

dot, with a 0.5mm needle. There are

three applications – the density effect,

scar camouflage and the shaved effect

or buzz cut.

“After a slow start, mostly because

this special treatment is still so new

to the public, we are now beginning

Creating the illusion of hairTricopigmentation is a technique that involves a microscopic injection of pigment into the most superficial layer of the dermis, allowing an optical reconstruction of an area characterised by hair thinning, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

to pick up steady bookings,” says

Martelie Giezing of Revitalab. “Our

advertising has been very successful

and the demand for a willing ear to

listen to people’s hair loss problems is

in huge demand.”

She notes that the biggest request

thus far has been for the density effect.

“However, this application doesn’t

suit every person. I find that the best

outcome will be clients that go for

the shaved effect, but male clients

are still unaware of how effective this

can be for them.”

Tricopigmentation is bio-

absorbed by the immune defence

system through phagocytosis in

a span of two years maximum,

making annual restoration sessions

necessary. PB

– H O M E S P A – www.3d-beauty.co.za

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As we start piling on the layers in the pursuit of staying warm, don’t let your clients get caught without those layers on their fingers and toes. Make sure their nail looks are on trend, not only in the latest colours, but in the newest shapes and designs to hit this season’s nail scene, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

Much influence in terms of nail trends comes

from the New York, Milan and Paris Fashion

Week runway shows which take place annually.

Designers and stylists have always brought us

more than just the latest on trend clothes, shoes,

handbags, accessories, hairstyles and make-up. They have

channelled their love for fashion and colour into nail couture,

creating a canvas of the most fabulous and stunning shades for

nails, which are sure to heat up the chilly Autumn/Winter season

for 2016.

This season is bound to take the nail world by storm, following

on from the soothing and feminine shades of Serenity and Rose

Quartz, which were presented for the warmer seasons. The

Autumn/Winter shades are leaning towards more muted, but

sophisticated tones.

Square nails, although a favourite, have been replaced by

shorter, more rounded nails, which were evident at New York

Fashion Week, with this shape and form looking more urbane

chic, feminine and stylishly refined.

Nail art has not always been considered as a hugely ‘in’

nails

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Fall into winter withthe latest nail trends

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thing, but has lately taken on a

whole new approach. No longer

are nails polished to perfection

in only a single colour – they

are now coated in artistically

designed manicures, making an

inimitable fashion statement.

Along with top international

brands, up and coming new

brands are certainly not

being left behind, proudly

trendsetting the most

interesting collections and

colours for all seasons, to stay

up to date with global, nail

trends. Lets take a look at

the latest trends, colours and

collections, which are making their debut this season.

Singing the bluesWearing blue nail polish has always been considered a

bit risky, however no need to be cautious as blue has

taken on a whole new and exciting dimension. This top

of the trends colour is so versatile and available in a

variety of alterable shades.

With Serenity being one of the two Pantone Colours

for 2016, this soft hue has shifted from a soft summery

palette, transforming from a calm airy blue, to a deeper

riverside or constellation blue, and even darker navy

blue, in pearlised and metallic versions, which are

lighting up the way with their distinctive shimmering

effects.

50 Shades of grey Feel gorgeous, not grey, in this colour, especially with

the exciting variety of different shades that have made

their breakthrough and are totally modern and moody.

Available in cool and warm undertones to suit just about

anyone, grey is another hue that is predicted to be hot

this season, making an explicit and intriguing fashion

statement that is dependable and on trend.

Aurora in RedWith red being a perennially popular colour, no matter

what the season, brands have released an array of

new takes on this forever-classic colour.

However, this is a red with a difference,

an eye-catching, gorgeously charming

and tasteful shade, just perfect for this

season. A vibrant but subdued hue that

certainly changes things up a bit from

your usual reds, making it a little more

noteworthy and remarkably irresistible. I

guess it would have to be as it was Lady

Gaga’s colour of choice for her Superbowl

performance of The Star Spangled Banner as well as for Rihanna’s Anti album.

Warm it Taupe Every season the sheer nudes and girlie

pinks are ever present, but there needs

to be more to these shades than just playing it safe.

Fashionable, stylish, classy, chic, dashing – the stunningly

sophisticated shade of taupe says it all and is sure to be

a hit this winter. Exuding total elegance with its warm

embracing hue, like piping hot cocoa and available in rich

creamy opaque and super shiny finishes, taupe is ready to

complement just about any look.

Dusty Cedar With rose undertones inspired by one of Pantone’s colours

of the year, Earth’s semi-precious stone, rose quartz, has

been adapted into a warmer, dusky pink bronze tone, just

perfect for warming up the winter season.

gorgeous in green A subtle, spellbinding but beautifully vibrant hue, with

tints in lighter emeralds, to darker timberland hues and

shimmering shades, green resonates with a feeling of

freedom and independence and puts you at one with

nature. This is a colour which radiates a touch of class.

Spice it up with Mustard This shade is like nothing you have ever seen before – it’s

hot and not worn by just anyone, because it’s borderline

daring and sure to spice things up.

Mustard has not featured much or been ranked as

one of the top most worn shades in previous seasons,

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61 nails

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 26 years. She trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. Email: [email protected]

however you will be surprised at

just how tasteful it can look and will

undoubtedly turn some heads.

Potter’s Clay A rich earthy mix of orange and brick-

red make up this complex but sincere

shade, which is perfectly balanced and

grounded in slightly varied shades with

shimmery gold and bronze undertones

that warm the heart. Best worn in a

glossy finish, this colour is ultra chic and

flamboyant.

Bodacious and bold Play with a splash of colour that will

wow, in combinations and shades from

a softer, creamy understated lilac, to

brighter, more fuchsia pink, to deeper orchid pinky red

and juicy grape. This is a beautifully bold and bright

addition to the season’s colour collection.

Shimmering silver Celebs have been rocking silver for a while now and this

colour is available in a variety of options and textures,

from matt silvers, to metallic silver (like liquid metal on

your fingertips) and even holographic shades with a

three-dimensional effect, and a spellbinding array of

colours, reflecting iridescent glitzy undertones of pinks,

golds, silvers, greens and blues.

glitter in the mixMixed media nail glitter suspended in the top coat is an

ideal and effortless way to keep nails fun and funky, in the

finest of fairy glitter, to chunkier, more textured versions.

You can create glitzy glamorous nails in an instant, without

spending hours on creating perfect nail art.

There are a number of glitter top coats that have made

their appearance in different sizes, shapes, textures and

colors to play with. What’s more,

glitter is an easy way of sprucing

up and prolonging the life of your

manicure.

Negative space This is a look which I think we all

thought had its time. However, at

New York Fashion Week, plenty of

nails were done in adaptions of blue,

with the models having their nails

painted in funkier styles. This look was

showcased at the Marissa Webb show,

where the matt negative space electric

nail look was created using OPI’s Light

My Sapphire.

Artistic splatterWhoever thought that those artistic

splatters you messed around with and

created when you were younger would

ever be considered as awesome artistic

looks by using nails as the canvas?

Each creation has its own uniqueness

that can’t ever be repeated. So have

fun with a myriad of different designs

and colours in yellow, blue, green, red

and orange, combining lines and dots

and splashed looks, inventing it as you

go along.

Sunset Tones One can’t help but appreciate a

captivating and exquisitely beautiful

sunset at the end of the day, as colours

intertwine and flow into one another,

reflecting a fusion of shades and layers.

Instead of the sky as the canvas, this

look is interpreted on the nails using a

variety of different colours combined

with reflective metallic bronze, golds and silvers, to

create a diverse but interesting nail art look.

Dark and daringOwn the night and be individual in black, a colour

seldom worn, for fear of coming across as Goth or

punk. Wear it on its own in a choice of matt or glossy,

or combine it for a more distinctive look by adding

a touch of glitter to the tips or lunula in any glittery

shade, from gold or silver to copper or rainbow mix

for a touch of sparkle. PB

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business tips

62

At the epi-centreFrom Lamelle Research Laboratories, the Nourish

Range is believed to be the first anti-ageing skincare

programme developed to directly correct skin ageing

from the very control centre of skin – the DNA.

Innovative DNA enzymes are capable of entering the

damaged skin cells and directly repair DNA injury so

that the cell can function normally.

011 465 2264

In the marketOur round-up of newly launched products and devices.

r‘Accent’-uated deviceBest Lasers is proud to

announce the launch of

the Accent Prime. This

device does facial and

body contouring, cellulite

reduction, centimetre

reduction and stretch marks,

as well as hyperhidrosis

and osmidrosis, all in a

single system. This results

in significantly reduced

treatment times.

012 998 9844

Vital vitaminNeoStrata’s Exuviance Vitamin

C+ Antiaging Booster is a

high potency, 100% active

power formula with patented

Aceta-C that smooths wrinkles,

diminishes dark spots and

increases firmness. Vitamin

C helps strengthen the skin’s

matrix, while the super

antioxidant Aceta-C enhances

the natural anti-ageing effects

of Vitamin C.

011 545 9300

Burning brightRainbow Bath & Beauty recently added

25ml and 75ml tins to its existing range

of 100% natural soy massage candles,

which includes the 200ml in a glass.

Non-toxic, non-carcinogenic and

paraffin-free, the candles are rich with

Vitamin E. Combinations of Shea butter,

avocado oil and various essential oils

make the candle wax ideal for dry skins.

074 379 9452

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Special offer on multiple bookings - Contact Brenda MzilaTel: 011 781 5970 • Fax: 011 781 6079 • Email: [email protected]

EDUCATION AND TRAINING

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We are the therapists preferred training supplier because

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64 saahsp

Cidesco Section South Africa

South African Association of Health and Skincare Professionals

Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

Briefly stated, here are the statutory functions as a

Professional Body according to ”Act 67”:

• Promotepublicunderstandingof,andtrustin

professions, through the establishment of a

nationally regulated system for the recognition

of professional bodies and for registration of

professional designations.

• Encouragesocialresponsibilityand

accountability in professions relating to

professional services for communities and

individuals.

• Promoteprideinassociationforallprofessions,

including traditional trades and occupations.

• Promoteprotectionofthepublicbyprofessional

bodies from malpractice by registered

professionals.

Please visit http://pbdesig.saqa.org.za/ for a detailed listing.

How can you get involved to help SAAHSP self-regulate the industry? By becoming a SAAHSP member.

Go to http://www.saahsp.com/#!membership/v7zsn to help us to help you.

sAAHsP Professional Body may not be a statutory body, however we do have statutory legislation which, amongst others, gives us the statutory function to police/safeguard and protect the public and our profession as a whole.

Help SAAHSP to give you a voice

This is as per “Government Notice 585 in Government Gazette 35547 of 27 July 2012, in terms of Section 13(1)(i)(i) of the National Qualifications Framework Act, 67 of 2008, rules for Professional Bodies."

What this means is that our industry has now become self-regulatory and through the CPD (Continuing Professional Development) process will elevate the standards that we pride ourselves on.

• Encourageinternationalleadingpracticeand

raising of esteem for professions in South Africa.

• Facilitateaccessto,andanalysisof,datarelated

to professions, including traditional trades and

occupations.

• Supportdevelopmentofanationalcareeradvice

system.

• Encouragedevelopmentandimplementationof

continuing professional development

SAAHSP Designation Ownership• NailTechnologist

• BeautyTechnologist

• BeautyTherapist

• Somatologist

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