Pro Beauty Oct- Nov 2015

Oct/Nov 2015

www.probeauty.co.za

leaps&boundsTechNOlOgical advaNces iN skiNcare

Fulfilling treatments

Mid-face rejuvenation

Ad-senseWhat makes a good advert?

Accurate analyticsspa revenue

management

Honours RollProfessional

Beauty awards – the winners

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

In this issue...

30

Regulars5 Industry news Local and international news

57 Hair News What’s hot and happening in

the hair industry

64 Product news All the latest launches

68 SAAHSP The latest news from SAAHSP

Business13 Insider Salon/Insider Spa Tracking the industry with

stats

15 Ask the Experts All your questions

answered

17 The beauty of good advertising

How to grab your target market’s attention

19 Women, entrepreneurs and beauty

Being your own boss

20 The art of client retention How to keep clients returning

to your door

22 Building brand identity The brand missionary

24 Data-driven tactics and strategy in the spa

Revenue management

Spa Focus26 Singular spa experiences A tour through unusual

treatments

Salon Focus30 Changes at RUB Bryanston salon adds nail

area and cosmeceutical brand

Medical Aesthetics65 Mid-facial rejuvenation Treatment options

Nails61 Nailing social media

marketing Interactive interactions

Features33 Treatment reviews Rejuvenating facials

36 Industry professionals convene at PCASA Conference

News from the Permanent Cosmetics Association of South Africa

37 Making your mark Permanent make-up in the

spotlight

41 We are the champions! Winners of the Professional

Beauty Awards

47 A win-win situation Winners of the Industry Awards

51 All made up Focus on professional make-up

53 An ‘active’ science Technological advances in

skincare

58 Feast for the eyes Eye care – a delicate approach

6641

53

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079

The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.Additional pics: www.istockphoto.com, www.shutterstock.com

On the coverCover source:www.shutterstock.com

Subscribe9 issues for R475 (RSA)To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970

Publisher Mark Moloney 011 781 5970 [email protected]

Managing Director Yolanda Knott 083 654 9098 [email protected]

Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970 [email protected]

Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 011 781 5970 [email protected]

Art Director Ursula Wong 011 781 5970 [email protected]

Sales Manager Alexandra Norvall 082 880 2047 [email protected]

International Sales Executive Melinda Alevras 072 160 6353 [email protected]

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Printers ABC Press 021 5343210

The two biggest events on the South African beauty calendar took place

at the end of August – the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo at

Gallagher Convention Centre and our Gala Awards Dinner, a glitzy and

glamorous event that raised the roof at Room 5 in Rivonia.

In this issue we pay tribute to the winners of the Professional Beauty

Awards & Industry Awards and reveal the secrets to their success. This provides

invaluable tips for all those spas, salons, therapists, suppliers and sales reps out

there that are looking for winning formulas.

Those who attended the International Spa Convention, which ran

alongside Professional Beauty Johannesburg, might have attended

the revenue management session presented by Jeff Butterworth,

of Lux Islands Resorts. Butterworth made the point that, because

revenue management, which is applied a lot in the hotel industry, is a

very analytical process, it is not very appealing to spa owners, to their

detriment. He provided valuable tips in terms of rebooking, a flexible

attitude towards pricing and packages, upselling and the importance

of analysing where your spa makes money.

A growing sector of the beauty market is that of permanent

make-up. An increasing number of salons now offer such services.

This issue includes a focus on the latest trends in permanent make-up,

as well as a report back from the annual conference of industry body, PCASA.

Joanna Sterkowicz

Editor

Welcome

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DERMATOLOGY Unlocking the gate to successful & accurate skin analysis

HYGIENE & STERILIZATION

BODYSHAPE AND EXERCISE Body analysis and correction

AROMATHERAPY PRACTICE For wellness and spas

THE CHEMISTRY OF ESSENTIAL OILS Blending skills

BUSINESS SKILLS AND ACCOUNTING FOR HAIRDRESSERS 2013 Edition

ANATOMY & PHYSIOLOGY WORKBOOK

APPLIED PHYSICS The physics behind the machines

BASIC CHEMISTRY Made easy

COSMETIC SCIENCE The foundation to a successful career in Somatology

NUTRITION Understanding healthy lifestyles

BUSINESS SKILLS AND ACCOUNTANCYTo ensure a thriving business

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business tips

5

“As always, Professional

Beauty proved to be

a great success. Our

exhibitors had a great show, with good

business reported from all stands.

Our visitors left the event happy,

more knowledgeable and informed,”

said Professional Beauty commercial

director, Phil Woods.

The expo incorporated a number

of exciting events, such as the

‘Educationail’ Workshop, the Nail &

Make Up Competitions, the F.A.M.E

Team from London, the EOHCB Hair

Competition, the International Spa

Convention and the Medical Aesthetics

Convention.

News in pictures

News

Marisa Dimitriadis, director of the

International Spa Convention, said

that keynote speaker Jeff Butterworth,

the chief spa and wellness officer for

LUX Island resorts, was highly rated

by delegates.

“Other popular sessions were Jade

Fuhr’s presentation on finding your

brand voice, Michelle Arde’s section

on staff and Karen Spruijt’s talk on

technology,” noted Dimitriadis.

The Medical Aesthetics Convention

was well received by delegates who

attended this year’s event, according

to conference director Karen

Ellithorne.

“Dr Melanie Lambrechts’ micro-

The Prestige Cosmetics

Group (PCG) has launched

a new Professional Division,

following the acquisition of

its first nail brand, OPI.

Says PCG CEO Maria

Lambros: “The luxury British

spa brand Elemis has been

part of the PCG stable for

the past six years. With

the recent acquisition of

OPI, we have

decided to

separate these

b u s i n e s s e s

from our other

retail brands, as

OPI and Elemis

have different

focuses and

end-users.”

All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.

needling lecture and Dr Judey

Pretorius’ cosmeceutical ingredient

analysis lectures were some of the

highlights of the first day. Dr Johan

Botha’s demo on PDO tightening

sutures, combined with the Ceccarelli

solution, was viewed with much

interest by the delegates.

“The second day kicked off with

Dr Cobus van Niekerk’s lecture on

how to select the correct filler for

your practice, and finished off with

qualified attorney Ulundi Berhtel

clarifying how to set up an aesthetic

practice in order for all parties to be

adequately protected from litigation,”

comments Ellithorne.

PCG launches Professional Division

Dermalogica’s Diana van Sittert, Adv.

Grant Joubert (SEESA) and Sonette

Donker of Skin iD were the speakers

at the Professional Beauty Network

Breakfast held on 31 August in

Johannesburg. Topics under discussion

were labour law, spreadsheet analysis

and the customer of today.Johannesburg team: Lauren Nielsen, Chantelle Parsons, Andrew Boberg, Heloise Janse Van Rensburg, Jodie Forsyth

Cape Town team: Sasha-Lee Venter, Colleen Walsh, Celest Els, Samantha Van Hasselt

Diana van Sittert, Grant Joubert and Sonette Donker

Big attendance for Professional Beauty JHB Over 18 000 people attended the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo, which took place on August 30 and 31 at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand.


6 industry news

Team Dr. Joseph was introduced

to the local market at the

recent Professional Beauty

Johannesburg Show.

Product manager Fabian Franz

revealed that the company was

founded 30 years ago by his father,

Dr Joseph Franz.

“My father created the company

because he had had an ice hockey

accident, and looked to plants to

find a natural cure. He found a plant

with active ingredients that helped to

heal his injured knee, so he continued

Team Dr. Joseph comes to SA

News in brief

The company previously known as PMU

Technology has changed its name to Sulé

Loggenberg MMPSI Academy and Clinic

and has moved to Sasolburg.

Loggenberg recently launched a new

business venture, PMU Supplies, an online

store specifically formulated for the

permanent make-up industry.

researching plants to see their

beneficial effects on the skin.

“At that time the world was not

ready for organic products but in

the last few years the organic market

has shifted to the mass market.

International organic certification

bodies like ICEA and BDIH all tell you

what to leave out of your products

to make them certified organic, but

not what to put into them.

“The Team Dr. Joseph range has

created a whole new category of

skincare, what we term ‘High Tech

Natural Skincare’. Our products

have the texture of a cosmetic –

they are super-skin friendly and

employ micro-technology for deep

penetration into the skin,” said Franz.

He explained that the company’s

philosophy is holistic, and that it has

its own herbarium with 300 different

herbs and plants in Bruneck,

Northern Italy.

Italian certified organic skincare brand, Team Dr. Joseph, is now available in South Africa for the first time through Johannesburg-based company FutureThis.

Changes at PMU Technology

■ Skincare market set for huge growth: The global professional

skincare market will be worth

$13.4bn by 2019, growing at

an average of 5.82% per year,

according to new figures

published by analyst Technavio.

Spas and salons accounted for

62% of sales of professional

skincare products worldwide in

2014.

■ Steiner Leisure acquired by Catterton: Owner of spa skincare

brand Elemis, Steiner Leisure, is

to be acquired by private equity

firm Catterton for $925 million, in

a deal which will see the company

taken private.

■ Spa de la Veille closes Sandton branch: As part of a strategic

relocation plan to assist in

providing current clients with

even better facilities and greater

service, Spa de la Veille has closed

its branch in Sandton, within

the Marion on Nicol. Its flagship

branch in Centurion remains intact.

■ L’Oréal aims to become carbon-balanced: Beauty giant L’Oréal,

which owns professional brands

including Decléor and Essie, has

announced its commitment to

become carbon-balanced by

2020.

■ QMS Medicosmetics honoured: German skincare brand QMS

Medicosmetics was judged to be

the World’s Best Spa Brand at the

recent World Travel Awards’ World

Spa Awards.

■ Strobing and ‘selfies’ drive make-up sales: Global information

company, NPD Group, reports that

the key influencers driving the

global prestige make-up market

are the strobing technique (using

highlighting products to illuminate

the face) and ‘selfies’.

Fabian Franz and Renate Klass of FutureThis

Sulé Loggenberg

Available at leading salons countrywide and at the spas of the following luxurious hotels: Cape Grace • Ellerman House • Fairlawns • Fancourt • Saxon

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9 industry news

News in pictures SA brand launches in Mauritius

London. To have the hair and beauty

industry’s leading magazine and expo

brands under one roof will enable

us to better assist both professions

in their development.” Moloney

said he hoped the expertise of the

Hairdressers Journal team would

help to attract more hair salons into

the beauty profession, adding, “Since

its inception, Professional Beauty

has tried to focus on the needs of

the professional treatments industry,

particularly encouraging greater

business professionalism among

salon owners. This philosophy

remains the core of our business as

we look to expand both the beauty

and hair sectors in the UK and

overseas.”

Professional Beauty UK on acquisition pathThe owners of Professional Beauty have signed a deal to acquire Salon International, Hairdressers Journal International and the British Hairdressing Awards from Reed Business Information.

Salon International is the

largest UK exhibition for the

professional hairdressing

industry. Hairdressers Journal International is the market-leading

trade magazine, with a 133-year

heritage. The brand has run the

prestigious British Hairdressing

Awards since 1984.

The deal, which is due to be

completed next month, will see the

hairdressing magazine and events

team relocate to Professional Beauty’s head office.

Professional Beauty managing

director Mark Moloney said: “It’s a

genuine coup for Professional Beauty

to have the Hairdressers Journal team joining us at our offices in West

Thirty-five salons

across Mauritius have

been trained and

certified as official

stockists of South

African eye-care

brand eyeSlices.

Says eyeSlices’

chief excitement

officer Kerryne

Krause-Neufe ld t :

“We’ve worked hard

to establish huge success in the Maldives within

the spa industry and are looking to replicate

that success in Mauritius,” she explains. “Our

synergies are aligned with the salons we have

selected.”

Neufeldt notes that eyeSlices treatment

pads represent a global first in cryogel

technology, a dermal delivery system that

slowly releases active ingredients and moisture

into the skin.

Radiant Healthcare held a body contouring workshop in mid-

September at Oakfield Farm, just outside of Johannesburg.

Pictured are Jacques Pretorius, Danelle Landman, Dr Patrick

Treacy, Melissa Eksteen, Alastair Sawyer and Jayde Wilson. Dr

Treacy, who hails from Ireland, presented a paper on Syneron’s

VelaShape III.

Kerryne Krause-Neufeldt

Mark Moloney


10 industry news

“This is also the first Alma

Beauty Remove to have

been sold in the whole

of Africa,” says Best Lasers sales

executive, Nicola Steenkamp. “The

system was only launched at the

end of August so this sale is really

significant for Best Lasers.

“With its 810 nm ‘gold standard’

diode laser, Remove is the world’s

best-selling laser hair removal

technology and is found in over

3,500 clinics worldwide.”

Cindy Moodley of Heavenly

First Alma Beauty Remove system in SABest Lasers has sold the first Alma Beauty Remove hair removal system in South Africa, to Heavenly Therapies in Weltevreden Park, Roodepoort.

Fourteen students graduated in eyelash extension

treatments at the EDM Nails and Lashes Skills

Academy in Pretoria on 28 August.

The graduates are now internationally qualified

to do eyelash extension treatments.

Says EDM’s Elma Schalkwyk: “Our courses in

eyelash extensions are internationally accredited

with the awarding organisation, VTCT UK. Their

international business development manager, Runa

McNamara, and her colleague were on hand at the

graduation ceremony to hand out the certificates.”

Cindy Moodley

Therapies adds: “The Alma Beauty

Remove is the new love of my life.

Choosing it was the best decision

I’ve ever made.”

Dr Gobac now distributed in-houseLocally developed and

manufactured skincare

brand, Dr Gobac

Cosmeceuticals, has taken

its distribution in-house so

as to streamline its service

to existing and potential

clients.

“We have really grown the

brand in terms of footprint,

as well as increasing

public awareness and

developing new products

to support and enhance

our existing offering,” says

the company’s founder

and medical practitioner,

Dr Robert Gobac. “Our

stockists are the pillars

that support our brand’s

growth. They are therefore

exceptionally important to

us and we want to provide

them with the best service,

not only in terms of product

development but also on-

time delivery, support and

added assistance to ensure

EDM eyelash extension graduates

the improved success of

their businesses.

“In a similar vein to quality

manufacturing practices

that have been implemented

at the manufacturing plant

in South Africa, along with

the quality of ingredients

sourced from all over

the world and the high

percentage of actives we

use in our products, our

distribution needs to be on

par, making us a notable

contender in this market,”

concludes Dr Gobac.

Dr Robert Gobac

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50% BETTER

1% SAME

49% WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN

SEPTEMBER 2015 COMPARE WITH

SEPTEMBER 2014?

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN


SEPTEMBER 2014?

75% BETTER

0% SAME

25% WORSE

business trends

13

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN


SEPTEMBER 2014?

INSIDEr SAloNFor the month of September, 25% of you reported that

treatment business was up; one spa said this was due to

better advertising. Forty-two-percent said business was

down as a result of an increase in pricing. Thirty-three-

percent of you said business was the same.

It seems financial constraints had an impact on retail

business during September as only 8% of you reported that

business was up. Some of you have attributed this to new

products and treatments being introduced into your salon.

Seventy-five-percent said business was

down, while 17% said business was

the same.

We asked if you ask clients

for testimonials, 58% said yes

and 42% said no. Some of you

reported that your clients post

their testimonials on your social

media pages.

As to the most popular retail item

in September, 33% of you said cleansers,

50% of you mentioned a particular product range (as

opposed to a single product), while 17% said that product

and brand popularity varied throughout the month.

The month in numbers

INSIDEr SPAMost spas (71%) reported an

increase in treatment business

in September 2015 as compared

to the same time last year, with

one spa having literally doubled

business as compared to the

same time last year. Reasons

cited for this amazing increase were

a focus on upselling, watching revenue

very closely, analysing how the spa books clients and

looking at all KPIs (Key Performance Indicators).

The average treatment room occupancy varies quite a

bit between spas, with one reporting 43% and another at

85%. The salon manager attributed this high occupancy to

the fact that the spa has more therapists than rooms.

Only 50% of spas reported an increase in retail business

as compared to September 2014. However, one spa

reported a significant rise in sales, due to an increased staff

complement, many of whom are good retailers. The most

popular retail items at spas during September varied quite

a lot between spas and ranged from moisturiser to body

balm, to 24-hour cream, to serum, to cleansing balm, to

detoxifying supplement, to body scrub.

We asked spas if they ever ask clients for testimonials

for social media purposes and all respondents said no –

rather they encourage clients to complete feedback cards.

AVERAGE TREATMENT

ROOM OCCUPANCY

55%

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN


SEPTEMBER 2014?

AVERAGE TREATMENT

ROOM OCCUPANCY

59%

25% BETTER

33% SAME

42% WORSE

8% BETTER

17% SAME

75% WORSE

InsiderInsider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in Johannesburg, Pretoria, Durban, Cape Town, east London and Port elizabeth to track business in september 2015.


14 business

It’s not an exaggeration to say

that the now ubiquitous Environ

brand had humble beginnings –

in a kitchen in fact.

Noted plastic and recon-

structive surgeon, Dr Des Fernandes

(known as ‘Dr Des’ in the beauty

industry) started making skin creams

in his kitchen, motivated by the need

created from treating two young

patients suffering from terminal

melanoma.

“Dr Des was never driven by the

thought of building an empire,”

explains his sister and Environ CEO, Val

Carstens. “His concern for his patients

drove him to research skincare and so

brought him to understand the vital

role Vitamin A plays in skin health.”

When Carstens joined the family

business she was driven by her

belief in the products Fernandez had

created.

“Even today, the global success

of this business is underpinned

by on-going care and concern for

healthy skin,” she says. “Environ’s

success is attributed to the fact that

Dr Des has continued to research

the effects of different ingredients

and treatments on the skin. He has

always tested Environ products on

himself before anyone else. This has

fuelled a passion, belief and trust in

the products across the company

and consumers alike. Today, we have

brand fans across the world loving

the results they experience.”

The first-ever Environ product to

be launched on the market was an

unadorned white tube of Vitamin A

cream. Over the years, this has been

enhanced by introducing different

levels of Vitamin A, adding anti-

oxidants and peptides, and by keeping

abreast of the latest technology in the

fields of ingredients and skincare.

“The basic premise of Environ

remains the same – all skins need

Vitamin A,” states Carstens.

AmbassadorsShe stresses that Dr Des was the first –

and is still the most powerful – Environ

brand ambassador.

“Dr Des continually researches,

treats with and recommends Environ.

He travels extensively, sharing his

knowledge with great generosity.

“As to our other ambassadors,

they may be celebrities, but they

were Environ fans and users for years

before we introduced an Ambassador

Programme,” comments Carstens.

CelebrationsShe goes on to say that Environ will be

celebrating its 25th anniversary and

‘amazing South African success story’

in style. “We will put the focus of these

celebrations on acknowledging those

who have been part of the journey over

the years.”

Carstens notes that the company’s

future will be a continued journey of

Environ’s reason for being. “This is to

continue to offer the best skincare,

latest ingredients at optimal levels and

to continue to create beautiful skins for

life.”

Recent developments at Environ

include the internalisation of its South

African distribution, the launch of

two revolutionary skincare products

(Intensive Revival Masque and Avance)

and the introduction of a therapist

incentive scheme. PB

25 years and counting …On 12 December this year, south African skincare empire environ will celebrate its 25th anniversary. Joanna Sterkowicz reflects on the significance of the company reaching this milestone, its history and what the future holds.

“Today, we have brand fans across the world loving the results they experience.” - Val Carstens

Then

Now


15 business tips

Finding the next big thing is a quest that should drive any

entrepreneur. The normal life cycle of product growth

and decline involves:

Growth – in demand and fulfilling a market need;

Maturity – sales level off, or competition in the marketplace

leads to a reduction in price;

Saturation – where competition is extensive, prices tail off and

profit reduces;

Decline – lack of demand, decline may occur naturally;

Replace – find something new.

With anything marketable, the cycle of growth and decline is

pretty guaranteed. Things peak then trough. Once the market

is saturated the product becomes less desirable, so the salon

owner has to find the next big thing.

Bringing in the new, even if it’s a reinvention of something

that’s gone previously, is key. Businesses that don’t recognise

that ultimately fail. Our clients are better educated than ever

before; they are more knowledgeable and more aware of

developments in skin, hair and nail care. Being

behind the trends has never been less of an

option.

Do YoU HAVE ANY QUESTIoNS To PUT To oUr EXPErTS?Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to [email protected]

Adele Visser, the council manager, has worked closely with the dti for 14 years, and has assisted companies in both in the electrotechnical and cosmetic sectors, to understand and apply for dti EMIA funding. E-mail [email protected]

Our beauty experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

Ask the experts

What are the benefits of exhibiting at big overseas shows like Professional Beauty london and what sort of support does the Department of Trade & Industry offer?

Trade shows deliver qualified buyers with real

purchasing power and people that often

cannot be reached by sales representatives/

agents in the field. In addition they assist you to

validate purchasing decisions by meeting your

customers and confirming with a handshake.

You will also have the opportunity to present

live demonstrations to attract show visitors.

Furthermore trade shows allow you to stay abreast

of the industry’s needs and compliance going

forward.

The Cosmetic Export Council of South Africa

(CECOSA) encourages its members to start with

shows in the EU, because it is South Africa’s natural

trading partner.

As a South African manufacturer/service provider,

the Department of Trade and Industry’s (the dti)

Export Marketing and Investment Assistance

Scheme (EMIA) partially compensates exporting

South African registered companies, for costs

incurred in respect of activities aimed at developing

export markets internationally for South African

products & services and to recruit new foreign direct

investment into South Africa.

Hellen Ward is MD of Richard Ward Hair and Metrospa in London’s Sloane Square.

As a salon owner, how long do I have to maximise the shelf life of a new treatment, product or service?

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business tips

17

Let’s start with the obvious:

if you want people to know

that you exist, you have to

tell them that you exist.

You have to advertise.

But telling someone to advertise is

like telling someone to use make-

up. It sounds simple enough at first

but then the questions start: Which

products do I use? Where do I apply

it? How much do I need to apply?

And much like advertising, there

are no simple answers to these

questions. It all depends on who you

are and what you’re looking for.

So step one is to decide who you

are, or what your brand personality

is. This is the ‘face’ that you’ll be

putting out to potential customers.

And as we all know, first impressions

count. Your font choice, colour

palette, pictures and the wording

you use will all affect how customers

feel about you and your brand. For

example, clean images, minimal copy

(the words you use), classic fonts

and muted colours say ‘sophisticated

and relaxed’, whereas bright colours,

more vibrant pictures and bolder

fonts say ‘trendy, modern and fun’.

The next step is figuring out who

your customer is. An ad will only be

successful if it’s reaching the right

people. So before you spend money

The beauty ofgood advertising

on advertising in a publication, ask

them about their readership (the

gender, age and income of the

average reader), reach (how many

people read it) and placement

(where your ad will feature, i.e.

the wellness section or the sports

section?). Including a ‘call to action’

(a phone number or web address)

will also help you monitor the

response to your ad so that you can

continue or change your strategy

accordingly.

The last step isn’t so much a step

They say that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. But when your business is all about beauty, how do you make sure that your salon or spa is the one that catches the most eyes? FCB Joburg senior copywriter, Jessica Everson, provides the answer.

Jessica Everson is an award-winning writer who has been in the industry for six years. She is a senior copywriter at FCB Joburg, a member of the FCB South Africa group, one of the country’s largest and most creative agencies.

On average, you only have 6.5 seconds to

grab someone’s attention so make

sure people can look at your

advert and know immediately who you are and what

you’re offering.

but a golden rule: less is more. Too

much copy, too many pictures and

too many fonts are just that – too

much. Decide on your key message

(a special offer, an experience, a

technique, a price point) and then

work around that.

On average, you only have

6.5 seconds to grab someone’s

attention so make sure people

can look at your advert and know

immediately who you are and what

you’re offering. If they have to try

too hard to figure it out, they’ll

move on to the next advert and

you’ll lose a potential customer.

At the end of the day, the most

important thing to remember is

that you’re selling beauty and

relaxation so your advert needs

to be just that: beautiful and

relaxing. PB

A golden rule:

less is more

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business tips

19

Women, entrepreneurs and beauty

Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.

Unlike any other business, the beauty business is largely made up of women. This makes perfect sense – women bring their passion, knowledge and experience to the table, writes Debbie Merdjan.

Worldwide, women make up about

half the population, and yet the road

to success for a woman is much

harder than that of a man. Women

in general have to work much harder

than men while their salaries are lower. It’s harder for

women to break into business and to be taken seriously.

It shouldn’t be, but it is.

That is why the idea of being ‘your own boss’ is hugely

appealing. This is where entrepreneurship comes in.

Starting a business as a woman, especially in South

Africa, is a dream come true. It takes courage though.

Business owners will tell you that a

new venture comes with challenges

and triumphs.

Of course there are challenges.

When you are an employee you

have the safety of structure and

a monthly salary. So, taking the

plunge into the unknown is scary.

You have to say goodbye to the 9

to 5 job and say hello to working

24/7. You have to continuously

work, strategise and think

ahead.

WisdomIt is really important to draw on

the wisdom of others, to ask for

help and to surround yourself

by the right people. You need

to learn, study and understand

your industry like no-one else.

In the beginning you may

overspend, make rash hiring

decisions or use the wrong suppliers. You

will spend hours figuring out how to do things. You’ll learn

quickly though, through sheer hard work. You’ll become a

female entrepreneur!

The rewards are huge. Your success will allow flexibility.

With success comes recognition, both internally and

externally. You’ll gain the respect and recognition of your

peers and from your community.

And you’ll find yourself being more creative and making

the right choices, as in great staff, clever marketing and the

right location. In other words, people who have the same

values as you. Building relationships and networking. You

need to be financially savvy, or employ someone who is.

Understand not just beauty but the business behind it.

objectivesYour objectives should be SMART (Specific Measurable

Achievable Realistic Timely). These concrete short- and

long-term goals determine the direction that you will take

and where your business will be in six months, a year from

now, and in two years from now. Remember though, as

the space outside your company continues to change,

your goals and objectives need to adapt.

The days of the beauty industry being fluffy and

unfeminist are long over. We find that the most dynamic of

women, the top female business-leaders, the academics,

the stay-at-home moms, the shop-owners, all women, are

interested in the beauty business.

You have a fabulous job to do. Do it for the

women! PB

You have a fabulous

job to do. Do it for the women!


business tips

20

I always find that there is a

fine balance between Client

Retention vs Client Acquisition. It

is great when all your marketing

efforts pay off and you get new

feet through the door, but how do you

keep them coming back?

You would agree that ‘wowing’

first-time clients and getting a return

on your investment is important, but

have you thought about how much

effort you are placing on existing

clients? In fact, the amount of money

you make on first-time clients is, on

average, 20% of your total income.

That means 80% of your business

comes from repeat clients.

There are two elements that

maintain repeat business: service

and communication. Ensuring your

team’s buy-in is essential to keep

clients coming back; here are a few

guidelines to take them through:

Client retention plan1. Service, service, service. Set aside

time on quiet days and have your

therapists work on each other to

ensure that standards, quality and

protocols are adhered to. Enhance

your client’s experience before

the client arrives by having your

front desk ask (especially new

clients) about their preferred room

temperature, music preference, the

adjustment of the head rest and

needs for her massage.

2. Update details. Have the above

information stored on the client’s

consultation forms so that any of

your staff members can refer to

it before a treatment. Your client

will feel that special attention has

been placed on her needs, which

is the start of building a good

relationship.

3. Immediate rebooking. Give the

client a reason to come back

before they leave. Train your

therapists to recommend a

follow-on treatment or a course

of treatments e.g. ‘You will require

a further two massages to assist

with the muscle tension’.

Writing out a treatment

programme and handing it to

clients at the front desk will assist

with rebooking as well. The most

straightforward way to encourage

repeat business is to suggest a

follow-up appointment before

they leave.

4. Maintain relationships. A

relationship with a client is what

ultimately keeps them coming

back to you. So follow up with

thank you e-mails and phone calls

to get feedback on service or

products to ensure that you stay

in touch with your client. Send

Ayesha rajah, MD of A&I Importers and owner of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa, has been involved in the spa and skincare industry for more than 20 years. Rajah also facilitates training for Phytomer, Priori and Skin Doctors.

subtle e-mails to remind clients

of the benefits of massage, or tips

on double cleansing, for example.

This gives clients a reason to call

back.

5. Ease in change. As we all know,

clients tend to leave a salon

or spa when a therapist leaves

with whom they have built up a

relationship. This dynamic can be

minimised by having the clients

get comfortable with another

therapist. Have another therapist

usher the client into a room, or

give a complimentary hand or foot

massage.

Implement a client retention policy

today and you will not only maintain

business growth, but greatly improve

it. PB

Ayesha rajah, owner of the Urban Bliss wellness spa in emmarentia, Johannesburg, provides some valuable tips on how to ensure that clients keep returning to your door.

The art of client retention

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business tips

22

Our professional industry is evolving.

In fact, it is meta-morphing at a rapid

rate. With new creams, lotions and

technology launched every week, how

do you know which brands to partner

with to highlight your brand or what you stand for?

Many beauty professionals might not know what

defines a brand. Well, a brand is anything – a symbol,

design, name, sound, reputation, emotion, employees,

tone and much more. And this is what separates you

from anyone else in the market.

A lot of people rely on product brands to grow their

own brand, but you know your own brand the best and

what you want in your business. Thus you need to be the

brand missionary and ensure you hire or rely on others

who believe in your dream. Your brand needs to speak

volumes to consumers. Your brand needs to stand out.

So you need to ensure the people in your business, or

the other brands you leverage, are alight with fire and

passion to enhance your brand.

SOME TIPS ON hOw TO BE YOUR OwN BRAND

Create your brand persona Who or what is your brand? What does it look like? Does

it have a personality?

The why of what you are doing needs to come

through in your brand and how others see it, so why not

use a brand language? Words are powerful as they can

limit you or set you up for success.

Find a mentor Look up to someone who is an expert in your field and

lean on them for support, guidance and to act as a

sounding board.

Build relationships to get to milestonesEnsure you build relationships with experts in the

industry, beauty bloggers or beauty editors and become

the ‘go to’ person in that field.

Align yourself with a brand

ambassador to showcase your

brand and vision and add a

stamp of approval.

Don’t copy – leverageOne of the biggest mistakes I see businesses making is

that they rely on other people or brands to grow their

business. Hard work allows brands and businesses to

grow. Don’t copy another brand and expect the same

results, as you don’t know what has gone into building

that particular brand.

Instead, why not leverage a powerful brand to

highlight your own brand? Use their team’s knowledge

and skill, lean on them for support and advice and learn

from their best practices.

You are a brand. And I believe you can be a successful

one. Remove the ceiling and reach for the sky. PB

Building brand identitywho are you as a brand, and are you relying on other brands to create your brand, asks lauren Gibson.

lauren Gibson has been with Dermalogica for just over three years, where she has been a senior instructor and a business consultant in KwaZulu-Natal (KZN). She recently joined the Cape Town team as the regional manager.

You need to be the brand

missionary and ensure you hire or rely on others who believe in your dream.

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K


24 business tips

Maximising revenue at

spas was one of the

topics covered by

keynote speaker Jeff

Butterworth at the

International Spa Convention, which

ran alongside the Professional Beauty

Johannesburg Show at the Gallagher

Convention Centre at the end of

August.

As chief spa and wellness officer

for LUX Island resorts, Butterworth

stressed that he was speaking from a

resort-based perspective but that the

principles of revenue management

also apply to day spas.

“Revenue management is applied a

lot in the hotel industry but, because

it is a very analytical process, it

doesn’t appeal to spa owners,” said

Butterworth. “It requires disciplined

analytics; spa managers need to

analyse factors such as the right

product, customer, time and channel,

as well as variable costs and fixed

costs.”

He noted that there are five pricing

expectations for spas:

• High price, high demand (usually

in high season and over weekends)

• Highprice,lowdemand

• Variablepricing,highdemand

• Lowprice,highdemand

• Lowprice,lowdemand

Data-driven tactics and strategy in the spa

Revenue management can be applied to any business with perishable inventory but is a complex science, as Joanna Sterkowicz discovered at the recent International spa Convention in Midrand.

CostsButterworth advised that spa

managers should regard treatment

blocks as ice blocks that melt. “See

your treatment diary as a delicate

thing. It doesn’t cost a lot to do a

treatment – it has low variable costs

(products and consumables) versus

high fixed costs (therapists’ salaries,

Jeff Butterworth

business tips

25

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

rent, water and electricity, etc). You need to calculate

the variable cost per hour-long treatment, as well

as your fixed costs per hour, to come up with your

total cost per hour, which you can then divide by

the number of treatments performed in a given time

period.

“Remember that pricing doesn’t have to be fixed

so adopt a flexible policy. See what treatments make

you the most money. I suggest that you have seasonal

prices and day of the week prices. Be flexible with

your pricing. Talk to customers to ask what they are

willing to pay for at what times, on which days and in

which seasons.”

Butterworth stressed that higher time demand

equals higher price. “I think you should sell longer

lower-price packages in low demand times and sell

shorter, high-price treatments in high demand times.

Determine your peak times, days and seasons.

“Upselling is an important factor in revenue

management. I always employ the ‘Would you like

fries with that?’ strategy. In other words, whenever

a person books an appointment, the receptionist

must be trained to ask if the client would like another

treatment as well, such as a reflexology massage, for

example.”

ForecastingIn terms of forecasting, spa managers should look

backwards before they look forward, according to

Butterworth.

“Forecasting is the major tool used in revenue

management,” he continued. “So, how does one

forecast? It is possible to use a budget as a forecast

but I don’t think it’s a good idea. Rather look at

factors such as occupancy, average spend per guest

and capture ratio.

“Other variables to consider when forecasting are

‘groups’ business; quest mix (family, couple, single);

average room rate; and nationality mix (ie. from which

countries do the guests come?).”

In closing, Butterworth emphasised the importance

of having a good receptionist.

“Your business will be made or broken by your

receptionist,” stated Butterworth. PB

REVENUE MANAGEMENT TIPS

1. Rebooking (build up your base)

2. Flexible time-based pricing (time of day, day of week and seasonality)

3. Affordable, low-price packages in low season

4. Shorter, high-price treatments in high demand time

5. Upselling (‘Would you like fries with that?’)

6. Understand where you make your money (massage, product sales or facials).


spa focus

26

To stand out in the market, spas should offer at least one unique, signature treatment that fits in with their particular ethos. Mimmie lancaster takes a tour of three unusual south African spa treatments that do just that.

relaxing in the rainThe African Rainforest Experience

at the Arabella Hotel and Spa

in Kleinmond, Hermanus offers

14 fantastic sensorial treatment

steps. The main aim of this sensory

journey is to stimulate the body’s

natural detoxification process and

to bring about total relaxation.

After being warmly greeted and

welcomed by spa manager Izak de

Bruyn, I set off to change into my

robe and slippers and am led to the

Rainforest Experience area. Even

though this is a guided experience

with all the treatment steps clearly

indicated at each station, my

therapist is always nearby.

What follows is a sublime

experience that starts off in the

exfoliation room, where one lies

on a heated slab and is thoroughly

scrubbed by a therapist and then

rinsed off with hot water. Thereafter

you get to ladle yourself with cool

water from the fountain in the

anteroom.

The next 10 minutes is spent in

the Eucalyptus-infused steam room

followed by a really refreshing cold

shower. Following this is the rest

phase, which is done while under

an aromatic towel, fragranced with

lemon, orange peppermint ginger

and more.

Now I’m off to the aromatherapy

sauna, where my pre-selected blend

of oils is used. It’s time again for the

pores to open, the body to perspire

and for toxins to be flushed.

At the waterfall shower I must

be careful not to exceed the two

minutes allowed, as this is such a

great sensation. Then it’s time for

the dry heat sauna, where I spend

five more minutes to detox and relax

tired muscles. This is followed by

time in the cold mountain mist area,

where soft cold mist falls gently on

the body and cools you down.

I’m encouraged to drink a lot of

Singular spa experiences

27


spa focus

R

water throughout my journey thus far, so after another

glass of water I get to lie on the warm relaxation bed

for 15 minutes. My therapist then guides me to the

reflexology footbaths, where I alternate between hot

and cold baths for the feet.

The Rainforest Shower Bed that follows proves

to be the highlight of the experience, with the

temperature alternating between 30° and 40°C. This

experience starts off with you lying on your back

while water ‘rains’ from massive heads high above.

You then turn onto your stomach and pulsating

water rains down onto the back of your body. Wow!

My therapist now leads me to the drying and

application room, where I get to apply soothing and

hydrating moisturisers. From here I’m taken to relax

in the candle room for approximately 30 minutes. I

fall into a wonderfully deep and restful sleep.

Upon waking up, I feel totally rested, relaxed and

ready for a beautiful tea ritual, where a rooibos and

chamomile blend of tea is served.

Bush backdropWhat would a spa

experience in South

Africa be without

experiencing the

bush first-hand? At

Etali Safari Lodge

& Wellness Centre

on the edge of the

Kalahari, you are

invited into a cool

thatched room

where the double

doors are opened

so that the sounds

and rhythms of the

African bush can be

clearly heard. I opt

for the signature

two-hour Tlhakanya

treatment.

The Tswana word ‘tlhakanya’ means to mix and

come together. This spa experience starts with a

eucalyptus-infused steam room session, followed by a

cool shower and a full body scrub expertly performed

by well-trained hands. The treatment leaves the body


28 spa focus

feeling tingly and radiant.

An unforgettable massage

sequence then follows; it is so

unpredictable and unique in its

rhythm and movements and

combines knobkerries, hot stones

and cool marble. Next is a full-body

wrap to further cleanse and improve

circulation. The experience ends with

a beautiful hydrating facial treatment.

As with all treatments offered

at the Etali Wellness Centre, the

aim is to bring about balance and a

sense of wellbeing in a natural, calm

environment.

By this time there is a commotion

at the water hole only a couple of

100 metres away. I’m told that the

elephants have come to drink water!

If this is not Africa at its best, then I

don’t know what is.

Spiritual treatmentLééfSPA is the new ‘kid’ on the block

and recently celebrated its first

birthday. A short time ago I experienced

its By Still Waters treatment. This is a

truly nurturing

e x p e r i e n c e ,

where not only is

physical exhaustion

dealt with, but an

escape is offered from

the disappointments and

pain that life may throw our way.

The treatment starts with a foot

washing ritual followed by alone time

in the steam room, where you perform

a self-scrub to rid yourself of dead skin

cells, symbolic of removing that which

weighs you down.

After the cool shower, your therapist

performs a foot and hand treatment.

This is not the normal manicure

and pedicure routine but more of a

nurturing, nourishing treatment, as if

preparing you for your life journey. The

therapist invites you to speak about

your hurts and disappointments and

offers wisdom from scripture.

A wonderfully nurturing facial

treatment follows, where your therapist

talks you through the fact that you

were created as beautiful in the eyes

of God and that it takes both

inner peace and outward

pampering to bring about the

beauty created in you.

You are then turned over

and receive a deep and intense

massage that focuses on the areas

that hold stress.

After a blissful half-hour of

massage, your therapist anoints

you with fragrant oils and speaks a

blessing over you.

An amazing sense of peace and

joy fills you. This truly is a treatment

with a difference. PB

Mimmie lancaster has been involved in the health, skincare and spa industry for more than 28 years and is a prominent and experienced professional, who is well versed in the wellness industry. E-mail [email protected]

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30 salon focus

RUB, which stands for

relax, unwind and

breathe, first opened

its doors in April

2005. Earlier this year

owner Jennifer Fieldgate noticed

an increased demand for nail

treatments.

“Despite the fact that we are a

serious skincare centre I recognised

the need for a dedicated and

spacious nail section in the salon.

I understand my clients when they

say they are always short of time,

so I thought about creating a place

where they can meet up with a

friend, have their nails done and

purchase their favourite products

all at the same time. Multi-tasking at its best!

“It is imperative we offer excellent service as well, and all

my nail therapists are highly trained and have many years

of experience. People underestimate how specialised nail

treatments are; therefore I am proud to say I feel I have the

best nail technicians in the business. They win many awards

and attend master classes regularly.”

In terms of the salon’s décor, Fieldgate was adamant

that RUB have a unisex feel and that men be made to feel

comfortable when coming into the salon for treatments.

“Consequently there are absolutely no pinks or pastel

hues in the salon. Rather, we have incorporated strong

clean lines, with greys and greens, and a few classic pieces

to complement some of the contemporary elements in the

shop,” she adds.

‘Cult product’Fieldgate recently decided to take on the Australian

cosmeceutical skincare brand, Alpha H Liquid Gold.

“My aesthetic doctor at RUB introduced me to

this phenomenal brand and I immediately fell in love

with it after using it myself,” she continues. “I had

been looking for a more medically based product to

complement the already superior brands offered at

RUB. The phenomenal ‘cult product’ Liquid Gold is

an award-winning resurfacing treatment that uses a

state-of-the-art, low pH delivery system to effectively

diminish wrinkles, pigmentation and sun damage.

It brightens and revitalises tired, ageing skin, and

radically improves the appearance of the complexion.

The Liquid Gold is 5% glycolic and can be successfully

slotted into any existing skincare regime.”

Prime positionFieldgate herself has no background in beauty but has

always been fascinated by the industry. “Ten years ago,

when an empty space became available in a perfectly

situated shopping centre (Coachman’s Crossing in

Peter Place), I jumped at the opportunity to open an

upmarket skin centre to cater for the discerning clients

in the area.

Changes at rUBBryanston-based salon RUB recently renovated its premises to include a large nail area and has added a new cosmeceutical range to its offering, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

31


salon focus

“The shopping centre is directly opposite one of the

best private schools in the country (St Stithians) and

I noticed the space was available when I was having

coffee at the ever-popular Mugg & Bean next door.

There are also many businesses situated around the

centre. I had a vision of not only offering an amazing

service and top international products to the parents

and teachers across the road, and to professionals in

the area, but also helping and informing teenagers

about the correct way to look after their skin.”

She believes that RUB differentiates itself from other

salons in that clients are treated as individuals not just

as nameless faces.

“When walking into RUB, our clients are greeted by

name and are made to feel at home. Our mission is to

form a relationship with them, and help them achieve

their goals, whether it is improved skin, anti-ageing,

slimming, nails, or IPL treatments.

“We have forged strong bonds throughout the years

and have enjoyed many exciting milestones with our

clients, such as matric dances, engagements, weddings,

babies, holidays, and teens growing into beautiful

young professionals,” concludes Fieldgate. PB

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BEFORE AFTER

Before and after images demonstrate the effects of DMK stretch mark treatments.

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DMK, REBUILDING SKIN, REBUILDING LIVES

+27 (0) 11 262 6120DMKSouthAfrica

Stretch marks most commonly appear after weight loss/gain or pregnancy, due to the skin being stretched beyond its capacity. This causes the skin to tear and form a scar.

DMK professional treatments effectively assist in remod-elling the scarred tissue with a specialised formula that dissolves and softens the damaged tissue topically. DMK then rebuilds the skin with its signature enzyme therapy to restore the skin’s tissue back to a healthy state.

The DMK difference is in the way the treatments and for-mulations are delivered, rather than working on the surface

of the skin. DMK uses a Transdermal delivery system that penetrates through the surface of the skin, allowing vital nutrients to reach new skin cells.

The DMK concept is based on science and the natural processes of the skin. By understanding how a condition is caused, DMK can then provide a remedial program that effectively works to revise this unwanted condition.

Similar to a personal trainer for your body, a DMK technician will take you through all the steps involved and most impor-tantly how you can achieve a life long solution.

To achieve a fantastic result at the skin surface you must fi rst regenerate the cellular structure of the skin.


33 rejuvenating facials

My treatment took

place at DMK Head

Office Clinic in Kelvin,

Johannesburg, where

therapist Lindsay

Gething asked me to complete a

detailed consultation card, while

stressing that the treatment is based

on the concept of enabling the skin to

function optimally.

“At DMK we work with the skin’s

natural chemistry. This treatment

contains messenger enzymes that

rejuvenate the skin. It is also ideal for

acne sufferers,” she explained.

Gething commenced the treatment

by performing a double cleanse

with the DMK Deep Pore Cleanser.

To prepare for the extraction phase,

Gething applied Sebum Soak, mixed

with an activator called Aqua D’Herb.

This combination spirals into the pores

and loosens sebum. My face was then

covered with plastic film and a hot

compress and left under a steamer for

a few minutes.

For extraction, Gething used

a needle to break the skin on the

pustules and noted that the impurities

were coming out very easily. After that

she applied Dermatox, which contains

kelp and acts like a liquid magnet to

Enzymes rule!

draw out impurities; it was left on

for three minutes and then wiped

off.

“I’m now going to exfoliate

your skin using Quick Peel, which

contains extract of Cinnamon

Cassia Nut. This causes the blood

to rush to the surface. Your skin

will start to feel a little hot during

this phase,” said Gething.

Just prior to applying the DMK

Enzyme Mask 1, she put some

Melanotech Drops onto my skin to

inhibit the production of melanin and

Pore Reduction Drops. She applied

the Enzyme Mask in an upwards

motion and warned me that I might

experience a slight throbbing as the

mask dried. I could really feel my skin

begin to tighten.

As a bonus I got to experience the

DMK Medi Pedi treatment, performed

by therapist Phindi Khumalo, during

this phase. It was such a relaxing

treatment that I actually fell asleep.

After 45 minutes Gething removed

the mask with a wet compress and

did a double cleanse with the Deep

Pore Cleanser. She then ran a block

of ice over my skin to reduce any

inflammation. Some Melanotech

Drops and Pore Reduction Drops were

applied, as well as Beta Gel, which

contains Beta-glucans to boost the

skin’s immunity.

“For the transdermal transmission

phase, I’m first going to spray your

skin with some Herb & Mineral Mist

to replace moisture, as well as Seba-E

Oil, which mimics the secretions of the

sebaceous glands,” she commented.

Gething applied the Crème Citrique

Plus, which contains Vitamin C, and

added Hydrophilic Crème to lock in

the moisture. Some DMK Sunscreen,

with an SPF of 30, finished off the

treatment.

My skin looked positively radiant

after the treatment and I’m really keen

to continue it on a monthly basis. PB

Contact DMK: 011 262 6120

Brenda Mzila opts for DMK’s signature enzyme Treatment to address an uneven skin tone, pustules and the dark circles under her eyes.

Enzyme Mask

After treatment

Sebum Soak

Exfoliation

Lindsay Gething applying cleanser

Every product is a personal fitness trainer for your skin. Strong is the new skinny!

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35 rejuvenating facials

Ever since I hit the post-

menopause phase, my

skin has really aged. So

I was delighted to head

off to Poise Brands to

experience the Proteinous Lifting

Therapy from Juliette Armand’s

Elements range.

“This is our anti-ageing facial and

has an immediate lifting effect,” said

training manager Meghan Less. “It

includes an enzyme exfoliation which

is really effective, despite being very

gentle on sensitive skin. You will

literally feel like your face has had a lift

post-treatment.”

The treatment began with a

thorough cleanse, using Juliette

Armand’s Sensitive Cleansing Gel.

“The gel contains an ingredient

called Osmopure, a plant extract which

protects skin cells from the cytotoxic

action of smoke, cigarettes and other

air pollutants,” explained Less.

This was followed by the

application of the Preperator Lotion,

which contains Juliette Armand’s

trademarked Cleansing Complex and

has 5% AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids),

namely lactic acid and glycolic acid.

I experienced a tingling sensation on

my skin.

Next, Less applied the Exfoliating

Enzyme Mask; this felt cold and

refreshing.

“Comprised of enzymes, this mask

effectively removes dead skin cells and

is far gentler than acid or mechanical

peels. It contains papaya to encourage

cellular rejuvenation,” she said.

The mask was left on for 15 minutes,

during which time Less performed an

arm massage.

Once she had wiped off the mask

with sponges, she applied Hyaluronic

Acid Serum to restore hydration.

“This serum has 20% hyaluronic acid

content,” continued Less. “Hyaluronic

acid can retain up to 1000 times its

weight in water and is therefore the

most effective moisturising ingredient

in cosmetology.”

The next phase was the Proteinous

Lift Mask, applied in the direction of

the neck and facial muscles and left on

for 10 minutes. This contains albumen

derived from egg whites. As the mask

dried on my face, my skin began

to feel increasingly taut. The mask

strengthens the connective tissues of

the skin, while smoothing out wrinkles.

Once this phase was complete,

Less removed the mask with a brush,

again in the direction of the muscles.

She then applied some Microlift

Serum, a ‘flash-lifting’ serum for an

instantaneous effect on targeted areas,

such as around the eyes, between the

brows and around the mouth.

The second-last stage of the

treatment was the application of the

Lifting Fort Serum, which is for long-

term lifting. Less finished off with the

Hydra Firming 24h Cream, a multi-

action cream based on the protein

complex, Milk Peptide.

Post treatment I noticed that

the wrinkles around my eyes had

smoothed out and my skin felt

rejuvenated and lifted.

This facial is ideal for special

occasions where clients want

immediately rejuvenated and

freshened skin. PB

As its name suggests, the Proteinous Lifting Therapy from Juliette Armand is based on proteins that tone the skin and restore firmness, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

A ‘firm’ belief in ‘lifting’

Contact Poise Brands: 011 033 0500

Meghan Lees performs arm massage

Enzyme mask

Proteinous Lift Mask

Post treatment

Lifting Fort Serum


36 permanent make-up

Delegates who attended

the one-day PCASA

Conference were

very happy with the

event, according to

PCASA board member and Certified

Permanent Cosmetic Professional

(CPCP), Nikki van Gend.

“We usually have a two- or three-

day conference with an international

speaker but unfortunately this year

our international speaker, Anouska

Cousana, was forced to cancel on

very short notice due to illness and we

didn’t have enough time to organise

another international speaker. Despite

this setback, we received fantastic

feedback from delegates and the

overall mood of the conference was

positive,” says Van Gend.

As to popular sessions at the

conference, she cites Paula Becker’s

microblading presentation as one.

“Microblading is the current

buzzword on everyone’s lips in

terms of permanent makeup (PMU),”

continues Van Gend. “It is a form of

Industry professionals convene at PCASA Conference

The Permanent Cosmetic Association of south Africa (PCAsA) held its annual conference at the end of August in Melrose Arch, Johannesburg.

cosmetic tattooing that involves a

hand tool and a specific formation

of needles. The needles are lined up

next to each other and these in effect

become a ‘blade’. This type of needle

configuration is so popular because

it can create a thin line that looks like

a hair, thus creating a more natural

looking result for eyebrows. It is an

advanced procedure and needs proper

training and experience. One can easily

‘slice’ the skin and cause scar tissue if

not properly trained in working with

special needle configurations.”

Other speakers at the conference

included eye specialist Dr Dirk

Booysen, Done Leech, who focused on

the fine art of doing lips in PMU, while

Philippa Crichton spoke on needle

choices.

A hot topic at the conference was

the way forward for the local industry.

“The conference highlighted the

importance of continuing education,”

says Van Gend. “We believe that the

only way the local industry will grow

is through the regular attendance

of a workshop or conference with a

recognised educator. PCASA, which is

a Chapter of the Society of Permanent

Cosmetic Professionals (SPCP), aims

to offer workshops for its members at

ground level and attend to the specific

needs of today’s technician.”

Van Gend believes it is imperative

for South Africa to keep in the loop

with international trends. “That is

why PCASA, as a group, can organise

international speakers to come to our

country so that everyone can benefit

first hand from overseas speakers. The

only way forward for any industry is to

work together and to work selflessly.”

In 2016, PCASA will host

the International Conference in

Johannesburg on 10, 11 and 12 June.

Latest PCASA news is that new

board members have been appointed,

namely Unaiza Moideen, Carla Becker

and Michelle Girling. Done Leech is

chairperson of the board. PB

Dr. Dirk Booysen



More and more salons

are offering PMU

services, where they

will bring in a freelance

technician as per client

demand.

One such PMU technician is

Manuela Incendiario, a member of The

Permanent Cosmetics Association of

South Africa (PCASA), who has been

working with the Professional Skin

Care Lab in Johannesburg for several

years.

“Permanent cosmetic enhancement

is a fascinating, innovative and

successful treatment used to enhance

your eyes, brows, lips and cheeks

with a soft, natural finish, which has

the appearance of perfectly applied

make-up.

“This effect is achieved, in clinical

conditions, by infusing hypoallergenic

pigments into the dermal layer of the

skin, where they remain permanently

but then gradually fade over time.

Designs that are common are those

that resemble make-up, such as eye-

lining and other permanent enhancing

colours to the skin of the face, lips, and

eyelids,” explains Incendiario.

Areola reconstruction PMU has proved its worth in medical

restoration, such as in correcting

imperfections from scars and areas

where skin lacks pigment.

Another important area is that

of areola reconstruction, as Yvette

Zacharowitz, MD of Uptown Girl

and Nouveau Contour SA, points

out: “Many women must undergo a

mastectomy, which can require not

only the removal of breast tissue, but

nipple tissue as well. Often, breast

cancer survivors are left with no

areolas and areas of scarring in places

where the surgery was performed.

This leads to some disfigurement that

can be difficult to deal with.

“Many breast cancer survivors

do not realise the options that

they have, assuming their only

solution is additional surgery

for areola reconstruction. Plus,

following mastectomy and breast

reconstruction, often women do not

want to deal with any more surgeries,

or are not good candidates for grafts.

Making your markIn the hands of a skilled technician, cosmetic tattooing, also known as permanent make-up (PMU), is a safe practice, with the potential to attract additional business into the salon, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

European Eye Region Before European Eye Region After

Pics courtesy Manuela Incendiario

R

Areoloa

reconstruction

by Yvette

Zacharowitz

Before

Directly after PMU Healed



“But today, mastectomy patients

actually have non-surgical options

for nipple reconstruction. With derma

pigmentation, the most natural look for

areola reconstruction can be created,

whether matching to remaining tissue

or creating areolas bilaterally across

the chest wall. This is done by using

pigment colours that mimic nature

and which complement the remaining

tissue and the overall colour palette of

the client.”

Zacharowitz, who has over 20 years

of experience in derma pigmentation,

has developed her unique optical

illusion techniques to create a

realistic areola and nipple. She is

well known in medical and aesthetic

circles for her medical camouflage

and reconstructive procedures, and

continually consults with leading

surgeons around the world to

improve and refine this life-changing

procedure.

Pigment choicesThere are two categories of PMU

pigments available to technicians –

inorganic and organic. Nikki van Gend,

of Image Division in George, uses both

types in her work.

“I believe there is an unnecessary

division of these two categories of

pigments, as there is a place in PMU for

both. Unfortunately here and overseas

some pigment manufacturers try to

create an inaccurate picture about a

competitor pigment purely to gain a

part of the market. The true fact is that

both inorganic and organic pigments

can deliver wonderful results. It is up

to the technician to look for in-depth

studies about pigments and get

the true facts from a chemistry and

medical point of view,” comments

Van Gend.

She advises anyone who is looking

for information on how pigments

work to go and learn from educators

who form part of a group of people

that is not biased towards one

brand’s view.

“For example, you can order an

official publication on understanding

permanent cosmetic colour from

www.spcp.org,” she continues. “The

important thing to consider when it

comes to choice of pigments is the

safety of that pigment, not whether

it is organic or inorganic. Examples

of safety measures are Material

Safety Data sheets (MSDs), which

should be available from the pigment

manufacturer.

“Also, a pigment should ideally be

made up of colour that has a colour

index code on the list compiled by

the Food & Drug Administration

of America (FDA). In layman’s

terms this means that the pigment

manufacturer only used colours that

have a track record with the FDA

regarding safety. There are colour

codes available on the FDA’s list for

both inorganic and organic colours.”

Hair Follicle SimulationEarlier this year PMU technician Sulé

Loggenberg introduced the Hair

Follicle Simulation treatment, using

the Oron57 device, to the South

African market.

“The Hair Follicle Simulation

treatment is doing extremely well

and the response after the launch was

fantastic. As it is still a very new and

exclusive procedure, I am sure the

demand will just keep growing,” says

Loggenberg.

The Oron57 is an Israeli-designed

machine that creates the optical

illusion of hair on a bald scalp. Created

by Moshe Alul of NPM Technologies in

Israel, the Oron57 comprises a set of 57

needles set on a roller so as to tattoo

the scalp. Until recently, the standard

method for introducing pigment into

the scalp was by insertion, using only

a single needle, in a long, painful and

time-consuming process.

Loggenberg often performs PMU

techniques called ‘3D Brows’ and ‘3D

Lips’. The former is a technique to give

the illusion of fine hair on the eyebrows

to make them more full and enhanced.

“This technique is exactly the same

as microblading, but only done with a

permanent make-up machine.

“3D Lips is a combination of

colours used during the lip procedure.

It makes the lips look fuller and also

gives the illusion of glossy lips,” she

states.

Loggenberg observes that the

PMU market has grown enormously in

South Africa over the last two years.

“There are many new technicians in

the industry and one should definitely

make sure that their choice of

technician has the right qualifications

to perform permanent make-up

procedures,” she concludes. PB

Before

After

AfterEuropean Lip Line Before

Pics courtesy Manuela Incendiario

Core of Iridescencewww.weareblackpearl.com

Facebook: We Are Black Pearl | LinkedIn: Black Pearl South Africa Twitter: @WeAreBlackPearl | #WeAreBlackPearl

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Follow us, like us , love us and capture beautiful skin!

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As you can see Smart Buy Depilève South Africahas proved it once again, winning the

Professional Beauty Award for Best Supplier\Equipment THREE times in a row.

I would like to take this opportunity once again to thank our loyal customers for all your support over the years.

Thank you also to the Smart Buy Team! Our mission is always to go the extra mile.”

ADRIAAN JORDAAN


Winners of the 2015

P r o f e s s i o n a l

Beauty Awards

and the Industry

Awards were

announced at the Gala Dinner event,

which was attended by over 300

guests.

Master of ceremonies, popular

comedian Joe Parker of Parker’s

Comedy and Jive, presided over the

event, with live music provided by

Brent Harris & Thee Jam.

Mark Moloney, CEO of the

Professional Beauty Group, gave the

welcome address.

The biggest night on the industry calendar, the Professional Beauty Awards Gala Dinner, took place on August 30 at Room 5 in Rivonia, Johannesburg.

Day Spa of the YearTouch @ Seasons

Urban Glow, Randburg (Winner)

Danika Spa

Hotel/Resort Spa of the YearBushmans Kloof (Winner)

The Twelve Apostles

Kurland Luxury Spa

Salon of theYear (3 Rooms or Less)Midori Eco Salon (Winner)

Madeleen Health & Beauty Studio

Skin and Nail Lounge

Salon of theYear (4 Rooms or More)Sherbet Angel

Beauty Studio

Professional Skin Care Lab (Winner)

Aesthetic Clinic of the YearPure Esthetics

The Laser Beautique, Bedfordview

The Laser Beautique, Woodlands (Winner)

Nail Salon of the YearSOHO Nails l Waxing l Beauty

Nina Belle Nail Spa (Winner)

Sorbet Nails Hyde Park

Spa/Salon Manager of the YearCecilia Labuschagne – Beauty Studio

Marian Nelson – Origin Day Spa

Elaine Theunissen-Kleynhans – Danika Spa (Winner)

Therapist of the YearCharlene Oosthuysen – The Spa Warehouse Lifestyle

Store & Skincare Studio (Winner)

Tiffani Dreyer – The Laser Beautique, Rosebank

Chrizanne van Eeden – The Laser Beautique, Pretoria

2015Finalists

We are the champions!

41 professional beauty awards 2015


professional beauty awards 2015

42

What do you feel is the significance of having won this award? I believe it gives Midori recognition as far

as being the best salon in Johannesburg.

What is your salon’s vision? We hope to be widely spread – eventually

one per city.

What business practices have you implemented to ensure success? Respect your clients; train staff

regularly; and stick to your ethos at all

times.

What is your service ethos? Midori is about helping clients reach their

beauty expectations while getting great

service, and staying green in our industry

by making healthy choices.

How does it feel to have won this award?It feels amazing and we’ve all

been on a high since we heard

the news. We are all very pleased

and exceptionally proud to receive

this award. It is wonderful to be

recognised in the industry. We are

delighted to be recognised as one

of the best salons in the country.

How does your salon differentiate itself in the market?We make each client feel welcome

and make each visit a memorable

one. Our service is consistently

good. We customise our

treatments and never just do ‘the

usual’ as we go the extra mile. The

salon’s products and equipment

enable us to get amazing results.

I believe we literally change

our clients’ skin and bodies by

touching them with our hands.

Best Salon (4 Rooms or More)Professional Skin Care Lab (Gina Gall)

Best Salon (3 Rooms or Less)Midori Eco Salon (Anisha Patel)

How do you keep your services and products relevant?By going for treatments at salons

in Johannesburg; attending trade

shows; reading industry magazines;

attending training and/or

workshops every month; doing in-

salon practical training; listening to

our clients and hearing about other

services they have experienced.

How do you retain staff?By allowing staff to be accountable

for themselves and not micro-

managing them.

As a qualified aesthetician, I work

in my business as a therapist daily,

treating and retailing to clients

myself. I think this gives me the

opportunity to be there for my staff

and I explain to them that I have

an open door policy, so they can

meet with me or call me at any time

during the day and I’ll endeavour

to help them with any issues that

they may be experiencing. My staff

know that I consider them as part

of my family.


43

This was the first time you entered this competition – how do you feel about winning? We were thrilled to have been

nominated and it was amazing to see

how many of our clients were rooting

for us. Obviously deep down I thought

we deserved to win, because we are

so passionate about what we do and

we treasure the relationships we have

developed with so many of our clients.

I am so fortunate and blessed to have

such an amazing team that shares my

vision for the salon.

What do you think makes Nina Belle different from other nail salons? I think my philosophy has always been

a simple one – do the basics really,

really well and don’t pretend to be

something you’re not. Highlight your

strengths and do not over-promise

and then under-deliver. Be kind to your

staff and they will be kind back.

What practices have you implemented to ensure success? Great customer service, highly

capable staff and aligning myself with

the best brands in the industry. On a

day-to-day basis I pay attention to the

small details, like ensuring that client

bookings are taken correctly, client

queries are responded to, checking

that sufficient stock (professional and

retail) is on hand, offering tea or coffee

to clients, taking rebookings and

personally addressing any complaints,

should they arise. Most important is

having friendly, happy staff and front

of house.

Nail Salon of the YearNina Belle Nail Spa (Sylwia Nourse)

How does it feel to have won this award? We are overwhelmed and proud

to have won. It is such an honour

to receive this accolade and to

be recognised by our industry

professionals. Our manager, Shana

Fosteras, and aestheticians Daphne

Mira, Tatum Winter and Bianca De

Witt have worked hard and really

deserve this award. To be able to

display the award in our clinic shows

our clients that we are on top of our

game.

What are the outstanding features of your clinic?We offer the very best in aesthetic

technology, treatments and retail

products and are customer-centric

and service-orientated. As part of a

franchise we have standard operating

procedures to which we adhere, and

we have support from head office,

which enables us to focus on

ensuring that every client is valued,

that safety is a priority and that

results are key.

What is your philosophy regarding clients?We only offer treatments and

products that are true to their labels

and therefore we do not disappoint.

Every client is treated as an

individual and every treatment as

if it’s the client’s first. The franchise

prioritises consistency to earn

clients’ trust.

Aesthetic Clinic of the YearThe Laser Beautique Woodlands (Tzvia Hermann)



Salon/Spa Manager of the Year Elaine Theunissen-Kleynhans (Danika Spa)What qualities make for a good spa manager?Good communicating skills; a lot of patience; creativity; and always

being motivated and positive yourself so that you can inspire those

working with you. If you keep your staff motivated and happy, it will

show in their work

How do you motivate your staff?Incentives – this varies from free treatments, free products, vouchers

from other retail outlets, money, off-time etc. I make it different every

time to keep it exciting for my staff. They also need time to relax and

unwind – we recently had a pamper day where I had students come

in and spoil us at our spa. I also set targets for staff to work towards.

What areas do you need to focus on to ensure a successfully run business?Ensuring that clients receive the best, most professional service

possible. This leads to return clients.

How do you deal with challenging clients?Keep calm, smile and try to resolve problems in the most professional

way and as speedily as possible. Listen to what the client’s concerns

and expectations are and focus on that.

What sets you apart from most therapists?I am always willing to learn more to increase my knowledge in order to give

the best advice to my clients. Furthermore, I’m always present while doing

treatments because my clients pay me for my time and undivided attention.

I am consistent in my work and love my job. I truly care about each client’s

wellbeing and am always willing to walk the extra mile for them.

What factors do you focus on in order to excel in your profession?I attend various conferences and the

Professional Beauty Expos to see all

the latest technology and products.

In addition, I focus on my own health,

eat and sleep well and exercise

regularly to ensure that I can perform

100%.

What do you like most about your job?Being a therapist is such a satisfying

profession to me as you get the

opportunity to make a client look

and feel better at the same time. I

would like to take this opportunity to

thank my family, clients and friends

Therapist of the YearCharlene Oosthuysen (The Spa Warehouse Lifestyle Store & Skincare Studio)

for all their loyal support, as

well as Jacoline and Veronica

Wentzel of The Spa Warehouse

Lifestyle Store & Skincare Studio

for believing in me and inviting

me to join their team five years

ago. Lastly, I just want to thank

God for giving me this talent

and for all the blessings thus far

in my career.


44

Heloise Janse van Rensberg (Elemis)

and Charlene Oosthuysen


Hotel/Resort Spa of the YearThe Spa at Bushmans Kloof (Dee Basson)How do you feel about having won this award?The Spa at Bushmans

Kloof is very proud

to have achieved this

wonderful recognition from

Professional Beauty, which

inspires us to continue

creating memorable,

authentic and unique spa

experiences.

What do you feel is unique about your spa?The surroundings are

therapy in themselves;

our beautiful landscapes

rejuvenate all your senses,

replenish your spirit and

achieve inner peace and

harmony. Bushmans Kloof is a very tranquil setting, which

allows us to create individual and unique spa experiences

for each guest.

Day Spa of the YearUrban Glow Randburg (Olivia Ryder)How does it feel to have won this award, especially considering that Urban Glow Boksburg won last year?I am so proud and feel very blessed! I was hoping

we would win it, but didn’t think it was possible after

Boksburg had won it last year. Wow – what a great

accomplishment!

What do you feel sets Urban Glow randburg apart from your competition?We offer our guests an absolute quality and personalised

service. I believe that we honestly spoil them and treat

them like true royalty. We pride ourselves on maintaining

a 5-star day spa.

What procedures have you implemented to make your spa succeed?We run specials on a monthly basis and do our utmost to

accommodate guests. The spa has also partnered with

various businesses to make our services available to as

many people as possible.

Do you have plans to open any more Urban Glow Day Spas in the future?Definitely – this is my vision and dream. In time, I aim to

develop Urban Glow into a franchise, and give others the

opportunity to partner with me and share in the Urban

Glow journey. My sister (Leah Livanos Henderson),

my mother (Billie-Ann Livanos) and myself have

also partnered together to develop an entire Urban

Glow body range, and, soon, a skin and hair range as

well. Our dream is to get into all salons and day spas

and later retail stores such as Dischem.

What procedures have you implemented to ensure your spa’s success?We have the necessary

protocols in place to ensure

consistency and conduct

monthly training sessions

in house. I ensure that our

product houses do regular

training with my staff. As a

team we know the importance

of understanding our guests’

needs and treating each

experience individually.

As a hotel/resort spa, how do you retain staff?We have great incentive

programmes, which keeps

the team motivated and

challenged. Doing spa treatments in this amazing setting

allows us to be passionate about our profession and the

treatments that we can offer to guests.

45 professional beauty awards 2015

Michelle Roberts (Black Pearl) and Olivia Ryder

Calgel

Proud Sponsor of the Professional Beauty

Nail Salon of the Year Award 2015

VISIBLY TRANSFORMING SKIN & YOUR BUSINESS

As the leading luxury British skincare and spa brand, we are proud to deliver exceptional account management, an award-winning promotional programme and industry-renowned education

WE LOOK AFTER YOUR NEEDS, WHILST YOU LOOK AFTER YOUR CLIENTS

+27 21 442 7700 I [email protected]

NO BLEEDS BLEEDS

WINNER of Best British Brandat CEW (UK) Beauty Awards as voted by the beauty industry insiders

VISIBLY TRANSFORMING SKIN & YOUR BUSINESS

As the leading luxury British skincare and spa brand, we are proud to deliver exceptional account management, an award-winning promotional programme and industry-renowned education

WE LOOK AFTER YOUR NEEDS, WHILST YOU LOOK AFTER YOUR CLIENTS

+27 21 442 7700 I [email protected]

NO BLEEDS BLEEDS

WINNER of Best British Brandat CEW (UK) Beauty Awards as voted by the beauty industry insiders


business tips

47

Best Supplier – SkincareAnesi BeauteBaborEnvironRégimA (Winner)

Best Supplier – Nail CareBio Sculpture GelLooking Good LCNSparkle Cosmetics (Winner)Young Nails

Best Supplier – Equipment/SuppliesLeonelda ProductsMarica Salon SpecialistsSmart Buy (Winner)Upfront Distribution

Best MarketingDermalogicaEnviron (Winner)Poise BrandsRégimA

Best TrainingDermalogica (Winner)Radiant HealthcareRégimATheravine

Best Sales RepresentativeBarbara Meintjies – Juliette ArmandFrancis Swart – RégimAJuanita Scholtz – TheravineNina von Wielligh – Babor (Winner)

A win-win situation

The Professional Beauty Industry Awards acknowledge suppliers for their service and support. Through active marketing campaigns, we were able to receive the industry’s choices.

2015Finalists


What do you feel sets Environ apart in terms of marketing?In my view great marketers listen. We’ve engaged actively

with key account salons and service partners in order to

deliver exactly what they require to capture the hearts

and minds of South African consumers. Environ operates

only through qualified skin professionals. We respect

them for their hard work, the passion they display in their

work and appreciate that, through this hard work, they’ve

built Environ around the world. Their needs come first.

Please describe a recent Environ marketing campaign that you feel has worked really well in this competitive market.During its launch period, Intensive Revival Masque

(‘Facelift in a Jar’) sold over 6 500 units. This award-

winning, world-class product was almost five years in

Best TrainingDermalogica (Diana van Sittert)What do you feel that Dermalogica does differently to other suppliers in terms of training?It is of utmost importance to Dermalogica’s education department to

be fully present in training sessions with a servant leadership approach.

Not only do we focus on excellent content delivery but we believe in a

deeper connection with our students. Subject matter shared does not

only focus on the product/s itself but also on a deeper understanding

of the skin and how we can improve skin health overall. Our curriculum

changes on a quarterly basis to stay ahead of trends and how they

will influence the skincare business. We are fully focused on student

feedback and adjusting our curriculum or delivery based on their

needs.

What would you say are the key elements to training success?Value adding should be a key element in training. We so often focus

on the brand’s content instead of putting an additional focus on how

the content should be delivered in a consumer-centric approach. Our

students are our business and they should be treated as a key element.

It’s vital to balance business needs with those of the students.

development and involved clinical trials of over a

hundred consumers. The launch campaign was a

360-degree effort; Revival was jettisoned into the

market at glamorous ‘reveal’ events around South

Africa, at the trendiest locations hosted by popular

celebrity and Environ Ambassador, Nico Panagio.

The launch was supported by education seminars,

heavy in-store activity, such as sampling, beautiful

artwork on the shelves, related in-salon professional

treatment regimes, point-of-sale hardware, scientific

information brochures, and media launches around

South Africa resulting in over R5m worth of free PR/

editorial written by leading editors countrywide. We

also ran an international holiday competition for the

top-selling therapist. Beautiful, limited edition (one

of its kind in the world) consumer gift packs were

also created.

Best Marketing Environ (Wayne La Grange)


48


Best Supplier: Equipment/Supplies Smart Buy (Adriaan Jordaan)

How does it feel to have won this award three years in succession? It feels absolutely awesome and we

are extremely grateful to the clients

who support us and who have done

so for so many years.

What sets your company apart in terms of service? Here at Smart Buy we work

together as a team and strive to keep our clients

happy and satisfied at all times.

How do you keep your services relevant to client’s demands? By understanding their demands and requirements

and keeping up with modern techniques and new

products for the beauty industry.

What do you do differently when it comes to client services?RégimA distributors are flexible and

willing to offer customised solutions

made to measure for a client’s budget,

their type of clientele and their exact

needs. We do not pressurise therapists

to take our whole range of products,

only those that would be suited to

their particular requirements. This

allows the smaller home-based salons

a chance to become part of the

RégimA network without excessive

opening orders.

Furthermore, we do not pressurise

clients to achieve monthly sales

targets.

We visit our salons regularly and

offer consultation days, in-house

training for therapists, ‘Ask the Expert’

evenings, launches and sponsorships.

In addition we offer clients

personalised client service, rather than

implementing computers with FAQ

and automation for customer service

tactics. Our personal, ‘human touch’

is what elevates our customer service

from good to great.

What do you feel makes your clients satisfied with your service offering?Speed and efficiency is the key. We

pride ourselves on our fast responses

to enquiries, orders and phone calls.

Time is money, so we

invoice immediately

orders are received

and within minutes our

clients know their order

is being processed. Very

importantly, what we also

do differently, which our

clients love, is to allow for

additions to their orders

without it costing them

more for processing and

delivery. Speedy and

regular delivery schedules

make products accessible

in a very short time.

We aim to please and by offering

the client a pleasant experience

in dealing with our company, we

build business and retain existing

clientele. RégimA offers technical

support on an everyday basis, when

it comes to skin and product-related

enquiries of any sort. Regular and

continuous training is offered to

support our therapists and keep

them updated and on top of the

latest developments.

First impressions last; we handle

each client with respect and ensure

that they are amazed at the lengths

we will go to in order to assist them

in every aspect.

49

Best SupplierSkincare – RégimA (Jacqui Faucitt)


Tersia Coetzee


Best Sales RepresentativeNina von Wielligh (Babor)

Best Supplier: Nail CareSparkle Cosmetics (Debbie Kayle)How does it feel to win this award two years in a row? It is a very humbling honour. We appreciate how hard business is right now and

we strive to give the very best we can to our valued clients by way of product,

pricing and service. Winning this award shows us that we are on the right path.

What makes your company different to others in terms of service? That is a difficult question to answer as I don’t know about other companies.

At Sparkle Cosmetics we ensure that we give 100% of ourselves always and

‘sparkle’ as we go.

How does it feel to have won the sales representative of the year award?I am surprised and very happy. I

truly did not expect to win as the

other brands that I was up against

have amazing representatives,

and I was very honoured to have

been in the company of such

great competitors.

How do you strengthen your relationships with clients?You need to be there for your

clients. No matter how big or

small the salon or spa may

be, you need to treat all your

stockists as equals.

How do you attract new business?We have a brilliant marketing team. I

personally try and make contact with at

least eight ‘new’ places every month.

Why are you passionate about your profession?I believe that the health and beauty

industry plays a significant role in how

individuals perceive themselves. We work

with people – not only on a

physical level – but emotionally

as well. I am in an industry

where I get to speak to

many different people on

a daily basis and make a

difference – however big

or small, every single day.


50


51 product focus – makeup

Postcard_6.6x4.5in

mudshop.com

MUD Fall / Winter Look 2015MUD Fall / Winter Look 2015

Eye Colors // Tinsel, Canvas, Onyx, Vineyard // Lipstick // Rose Clay // Lip Pencil // Mauve

All made upProfessional make-up products differ from consumer make-up in that they are used by make-up artists for film, television, stage, runway and special occasions, such as weddings and red carpet.

Magic clothA luxuriously soft two-sided

cleansing cloth, Makeup

Eraser requires only water to

remove all makeup, including

waterproof mascara and

stay-fast lipstick, effortlessly

and effectively. The smoother

side removes the makeup

while the slightly coarser side

gently exfoliates the skin.

072 479 0541

Pencil powerBodyography’s Bali

Bronze and Midnight

Blue eye pencils are

infused with coconut

oil, so they are ultra-

hydrating and glide on

effortlessly. The long-

wearing shades are

both metallic and have

a shimmer property

that impart a light to

the eye area.

012 621 3300

Brushing upKohl Make-up has added a long handle,

flat-ended Kabuki brush to its range. Made

of white goat hair, the brush gently works

foundation across the skin, alleviating

streaking and lines. It works really well

when blending and softening lines while

highlighting and contouring.

082 963 4601

A higher levelPerfect for the festive season, the MUD (Make-

up Designory) Elevate Collection comprises four

eyeshadow colours (Canvas, Onyx, Tinsel and Vineyard)

that have a unique velvet consistency, allowing them

to glide on smoothly and evenly. The collection also

includes a lipstick (Rose Clay) and a lip pencil (Mauve).

011 656 0120

A keratolytic product to effectively remove &soften hard, dry skin.

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

Por beauty AD 2 HEEL PEEL.pdf 1 5/25/2015 6:02:28 AM


‘Skincare speak’ in recent

years has revolved around

ingredients such as

AHAs, BHAs, TCA, retinol,

Vitamin C, Vitamin E,

niacinamide, resveratrol, curcuminoid,

alpha lipoic acid, hyaluronic acid,

stem cells, copper, growth factors and

peptides, among others.

Once a new ingredient is identified it

has to be formulated in such a way as

to be absorbable by the skin. Science’s

understanding of how the skin ages is a

big focus of study.

Following on from the launch of

Intensive Revival Masque earlier this

year, South African skincare brand

Environ recently launched Avance

DFP312 technology.

Says Environ founder Dr Des

Fernandes: “For Avance I chose three

winning peptide complexes; when this

collagen-stimulating group of peptides

is uniquely combined, it results in a

special synergy, producing even better

results which can be likened to those

The one certainty in the skincare industry is that there will always be more sophisticated and technological advances in terms of active ingredients and the effects thereof, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

of seven peptides. We use supplier-

recommended concentrations and

exceed them as well.”

Commenting on how peptides

actually work, Fernandes explains: “In

order to react to their environment

or to internal stimuli and to regulate

their activity, cells use several clearly

defined signalling pathways that

will transfer information from the

cell surface to the internal effector

system. Thus, a peptide can link to

a matching cell-surface receptor to

relay information into the cell using

various signalling pathways. It works

like a key and a keyhole. Thus the

structure of the peptide is important.

Different peptides can trigger

different messages.”

Reflecting on the award-winning

Intensive Revival Masque, Fernandes

notes that its combination of

asiatic, lactic and mandellic acids

has been scientifically proven to

trigger growth factors which help to

rejuvenate and revive skin, leading

An ‘active’ science

53 technological advances

R


54

to a younger, fresher

appearance.

“The result of four

years of research,

the Intensive Revival

Masque is one of the

most extensively trialled

skincare products on

the market,” explains

Fernandes.

In vogueJacqui Faucitt of RégimA

agrees that peptides

are very much in vogue.

“They offer a plethora

of advantages, as they

provide synthesised and

safer penetrating options

which natural proteins

cannot provide.

“The development of

multifunctional peptides

is advancing in technology

and safety on a very regular basis. Matrixyl

3000 is one of the best-known collagen

signalling peptides, stimulating synthesis

of the skin’s key constituents, collagen,

elastin and glucosaminoglycans.

“Nanotechnology is developing and

improving as we speak. There are now

more advanced, safe options available

that have a profound effect on skin

treatment. Their popularity is increasing

as exploration of their potential is being

realised. Nanotechnology will be at the

forefront in the future.”

She notes that RégimA has

revolutionised wound-healing, using

the combined benefits of nano-

Centella and elastin-stimulating

peptides to create products with

the potential to revolutionise skin

treatment, true rejuvenation, wound-

healing and scar remodelling.

A recently released RégimA Zone

product utilises combined peptides

and nano-Centella, as well as RégimA

trademarked Centelastin, at the

highest clinical efficacy. The Zone

Quantum Elastin-Collagen Revival is

an anti-ageing product, designed to

promote repair and stimulate healthy

Collagen III synthesis, re-elasticising

and firming the skin with resultant

smoothing of wrinkles.

“We are extremely excited about

a world-first product to be released

in the not-too-distant future. It

contains substances shown to be

able to stimulate and improve skin

renewal processes, accelerating and

improving quality and results in a

re-densified and thicker epidermis

in eight weeks by reversing the

natural degradation of nervous

fibres and their growth restarts,

counterbalancing the effects of

time.”

Probiotic approachWith the latest research into the

Human Microbiome Project releasing

findings on the importance of

microbes in our existence, South

African certified organic skincare

Once a new ingredient is identified it has to be formulated in such a way as to be absorbable by the skin. Science’s understanding of how the skin ages is a big focus of study.

technological advances

55


technological advances

Care for Compromised Skin

RESURFACINGBALM

INTENSIVESCAR

REPAIRINTENSIVESCAR

REPAIRRESURFACING

BALM

brand Esse has chosen to focus heavily on its micro-

biome technologies.

Says Esse founder Trevor Steyn: “Although

the brand has always considered the importance

that bacteria play in skin health, it is becoming

increasingly evident that skin health is primarily

reliant on a healthy skin biome to deal effectively

with ageing and environmental aggressors.

“Last year we launched the first Esse Biome Plus

product – the Toner Plus. It contains elements of

probiotics that create an ideal skin environment to

support the growth of healthy and varied microbes.”

In June 2015 Esse launched its Esse Plus line

locally and internationally. These products all contain

probiotic elements at one or more of the following

defined levels: Level 4 (these products use the

‘broth’ from a microbial soup); Level 3 (this method

results in an ‘extract’ that contains the cytoplasm of

probiotic microbes); and Level 2 (the culture of the

whole probiotics is heated to 60°C and cooled again

over three successive days).

These three levels of probiotic supplementation

are relatively easy to formulate with. The ingredient

is simply added to the formulation with no real

change in the preservative system or in the rest of

the product.

“Level 1 is the incorporation of live probiotic

microbes in the final product. There are some

difficulties in this process. The use of a preservative

system would kill the microbes, so the product needs

to be preservative-free. The Esse Plus Probiotic

Serum contains probiotics at this level.

“Esse includes its Biome Plus logo wherever any

of the above four levels of probiotics are included in

a product,” concludes Steyn.

retinol returns Drawing on one of the most powerful ingredients

recommended by medical professionals to treat

the signs of ageing radically, Dermalogica recently

launched Overnight Retinol Repair. R

56 technological advances


“We believe that this is the first

retinol treatment to offer a unique

customisation option, allowing users

to enjoy the benefits of a retinoid

while experiencing maximum comfort

and efficacy,” says Natasha Proksch,

national marketing manager of

Dermalogica South Africa.

She continues: “Key to the formula

is 0.5% retinol, pure Vitamin A, which

has been demonstrated to reverse

both the signs of intrinsic ageing

(genetics) as well as extrinsic ageing

(environmental). Studies show

that retinol significantly restores

the structural integrity of the skin,

accelerating cell turnover and renewal,

stimulating collagen production,

improving epidermal thickness and

increasing elastin biosynthesis.

“The retinol molecule on its own,

however, is chemically unstable,

degrading with exposure to sunlight

and air. So Dermalogica utilises

microencapsulation technology

to retain stability and maintain

concentration levels. The encapsulation

technology used in Overnight Retinol

Repair also allows for a controlled

release delivery system which enables

the active retinol to penetrate deeply

into the skin for optimum results.”

As part of Dermalogica’s AGE Smart

line, Overnight Retinol Repair draws on

several additional active ingredients

that work together to reduce the

appearance of ageing skin. These

include Peptide Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

(PT-5) to boost collagen formation,

treat wrinkles and firm skin; Sodium

Ascorbyl Phosphate (stabilised

Vitamin C) to support collagen

synthesis and offer antioxidant

protection in combatting free radicals;

and a unique bioenergised Copper

(Cu++) Amino Acid Complex, clinically

proven to help to reduce visible

wrinkles and increase collagen and

elastin production.

Stem cellsAccording to Babor South Africa

national trainer Mariska Oberholster,

the entire Skinovage Px range now

contains Alpine Stem Cells.

“Skinovage is what we refer to

as our intelligent premium skincare

line,” comments Oberholster. “Alpine

Stem Cells protect the skin cell DNA

from damage caused by UV rays and

free radicals, as a result premature

ageing that is caused by light and

environmental factors is broadly

prevented.

“Then we have Champagne Pear

Stem Cell Extract in our Spa Body

Range. These stem cells also protect

the skin from free radicals, UV Rays

and premature ageing.”

Oberholster also notes that Babor

products are full of peptides. “The

ones that stand out for me are the

peptides in the Mimical Control Cream.

These peptides mimic botulinum

toxin by reducing the distribution

of neurotransmitters, which are

responsible for muscle contractions.

As such, the relaxation phases of the

skin are increased. Existing expression

lines are significantly alleviated.

“The Dr Babor Collagen Booster

Cream is ideal for skin with pronounced

lines and loss of elasticity. This cream

restructures and plumps up the

skin intensively from the inside and

effectively reduces the appearance of

lines and wrinkles. Collagen Booster

Peptides restructure the network of

collagen and elastin fibres to form

a dense, even structure and thus

increase the density and firmness of

the skin, visibly and palpably. These

peptides also protect the collagen

and elastin fibres against enzymatic

breakdown.”

Mésolift MarineFrench skincare brand Thalgo recently

entered the cosmeceutical domain

with the launch of the MCeutic brand,

based on the patented ingredient,

Mésolift Marine, which mimics the

effects of mesotherapy (the infusion

of active ingredients into the skin via

needles).

Mésolift Marine contains two B

Vitamins, 14 nutrients, 18 amino acids,

hyaluronic acid and a nucleoside.

Three grades of peel are offered by

MCeutic, from 8% to 22.5% (salicylic

acid, ascorbic acid, and malic acid).

MCeutic is suitable for treating

uneven skin tone and texture, scarring

or post-acne scars, pigmentation,

enlarged pores, excess oil, localised

recurring or occasional blemishes and

thickened skin.

Times SixSixth Intelligence from South African

brand, Six Sensational Skincare, offers

an advanced formulation for anti-

ageing.

Says Six’s Marisa Dimitriadis: “Sixth

Intelligence can be used as a night

cream in the summer months and day

and night cream in winter months. It

contains the trademarked intelligent

ingredient, Venuceane. This is a

super anti-oxidant and provides extra

protection to the skin.

“We have also included Macadamia

Seed Oil in the formulation, to repair,

soften and condition the skin. It

prevents trans-epidermal water loss

and results in a fresh-looking skin.”PB

hair news

57

Keeping up with Kardashian hairThe Black Seed Dry Oil

from the Kardashian

Beauty Hair range is a

nutrient rich treatment

and styling aid that

rejuvenates and nourishes

hair so it appears strong,

thick, smooth and

gloriously shiny. This

ultra-light formula is easily

absorbed and leaves no

residue.

021 790 1669

Crowning glory

Defrizzing delightInoar Thermoliss is a non-chemical

thermo-active defrizzer. Its formula,

which is infused with Argan oil, silk

amino acids and Provitamin B5,

penetrates and seals the hair’s surface,

while enhancing the smooth effect

and protecting it from styling tools. It

is a great option for those who want

smoother and frizz-free hair.

012 346 1721

Fragrant locksThe Hair & Body Perfume by label.m

is a non-drying hair fragrance suitable

for all hair types. Infused with Argan

oil, this contemporary scent combines

a burst of sparkling citrus blossom

with white florals. The luxurious glass

bottle with bow detail comes encased

in a metallic silver box.

021 448 8847 Strong roots ORS South Africa (formerly Organic Root Stimulator) has

launched its ORS Hair Strengthening Argan Oil range.

It comprises a Fortifying Sheen Spray, No-lye Relaxer,

Fortifying Hair Food, Hair Mayonnaise, Fortifying Hair Oil,

Neutralising Shampoo, Fortifying Conditioner, Fortifying

Hair Polisher and Crème Hair Relaxer.

011 661 6600

Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.



Dark circles under the

eyes, droopy lids,

bags, puffiness, fine

lines and wrinkles

may all be present

as the wages of age. As any qualified

therapist will tell clients, extra care needs

to be taken when choosing a skincare

product for this area.

According to www.mediniche.com, products that contain gentle, non-

irritating compounds which reduce the

appearance of wrinkles, along with a

wide range of vitamins, antioxidants,

and skin-plumping substances, are ideal

choices.

The website further advocates that,

when choosing an eye care product, it

is important that it be oil-free: “Products

containing oil increase the likelihood of

clogged glands around the eyes that can

lead to sties and other ocular problems.

Contact lens wearers, in particular,

should avoid products containing

oil. The oil not only sticks to the lens,

causing blurred vision, but can also

cause permanent staining. To minimise

the potential for contamination, people

should avoid products packaged in a

manner that requires ‘dipping’ fingers

into a jar.”

Ursula Hunt of DermaFix believes

it is always best to choose products

efficient care of the eye area equates to delicate care, as the skin around the eyes is thinner and more sensitive than that of the rest of the face, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

eye care

58

Feast for the eyes


59 eye care

specifically formulated for the eye

area.

“A prime concern for safe use

around the eyes has to do with

allergic skin types with sensitive eyes,”

continues Hunt. “Some ingredients

may be slightly irritating or ineffective.

Look for products that are specifically

formulated to target specific concerns

around the eyes, like fine lines, dark

circles and puffiness.”

DermaFix CircleLight contains

liposome-encapsulated peptides

along with Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone

and Dipeptide-2. These ingredients

encourage lymphatic drainage around

the eye area for the improvement of

dark circles, bags and puffiness.

Says Hunt: “DermaFix Corrective

Eye Complex utilises plant stem-cell

technology with rice, soy proteins and

soy peptides to preserve and maintain

skin integrity and elasticity around the

eye area. It noticeably improves the

appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,

commonly known as ‘crow’s feet’.”

Gel at playJuliette Armand’s Skin Boosters

Opsis Therapy Eye Brightening Gel is

specifically designed for the sensitive

eye contour area.

It visibly reduces black circles and

swelling, while it moisturises, tones

and refreshes the eye area.

Active ingredients include Eyeseryl,

Aldavine, Multisal Salcool/

Chrysanthellum / Phytexcell Horse

Chestnut, A-G Hesperidin and

Bisabolol.

lash focusAnesi has introduced the Eyelash

Serum, which, until now, was only

included exclusively in the professional

Expression Ritual Coffret.

“Thanks to its great acceptance and

proven results in terms of lengthening

and adding volume to eyelashes, it

is a great product to improve sales

and customer satisfaction,” says

Anesi distributor Dalize Havenga of

Exclusive Beauty Solutions (EBS).

Ingredients include Simpeptide

xlash, a bio-available lipo-aligopeptide

and winner of several awards for

its effect on keratin genes during

the anagen phase. It increases the

thickness and length of eyelashes.

Also included in the formulation

are keratin peptides, which represent

between 85% and 90% of the total

weight of the hair, and are responsible

for defending it against external

aggression, maintaining the strength

and integrity of the hair fibre. These

hydrolysed peptides of marine origin

act as rebuilders of the hair fibre,

increasing the body and flexibility of

lashes.

Eye openerStill on the subject of serums, RégimA’s

Zone Eye Opener Serum Revolution

Eyz is a deeply penetrating, multi-

action advanced anti-ageing serum,

created for use over the whole eye

area, particularly beneficial for crêpey

upper eyelids.

“This ultra-refined elixir from

organic cactus soothes and calms

irritated skin both short-and long-

term, while hydrating, protecting and

firming,” says RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt.

She points out that mineral-rich

giant kelp algae provides antioxidant

and anti-inflammatory properties, as

well as smoothing and tightening. In

addition, a triple action complex helps

to decrease puffiness and darkened

circles. It also firms and increases

collagen and elastin synthesis.

“It is a high-potency combination

for anti-ageing eye care, helping

to improve the look of tired heavy

eyes, achieving a more youthful

appearance,” states Faucitt.

RégimA’s Zone New Expression-365

Under-Eye Fix utilises a plethora of

the latest technologically advanced

peptides, due to their specific benefits

on the under-eye area. These include

targeting and reducing crow’s feet

wrinkles in density and depth with

myo-relaxing action, offering rapid

and reversible muscle and nerve-

relaxing effects, for safe application

in the under-eye and crow’s feet area,

where the use of injectable myo-

relaxors is restricted.

“Importantly this product also fades

under-eye dark circles, decongesting

and reducing puffiness, forming a

continuous film with tensor effect,

with replenishment and increased

collagen synthesis. There is a gradual,

continual release of actives into the

skin, with an immediate lifting, eye

contour-smoothing effect, offering

24-hour residual relaxing power. It

also has a preventative as well as

revitalising action, helping to delay

the formation and deepening of

expression wrinkles.” R


60 eye care

Ultimate creamThe Ultimate Perfecting Eye Cream

from Doctor Babor is ideal for sensitive

eyes, bags, puffiness and circles under

the eyes. An ingredient called Actiflow

stimulates the microcirculation

and increases the flexibility of the

capillaries, while an active complex of

peptides, green beans and rutin inhibits

the degradation of the extracellular

matrix and increases synthesis of

fibronectin and collagen. This firms

and strengthens the tissue in the

sensitive eye area, giving it a smoother

and more relaxed appearance.

Hyaluronic acid has been added to

the formulation to bind moisture in

the skin. Packaging is in the form of

a user-friendly roller applicator for use

morning and evening.

The Babor Skinovage Anti-Wrinkle

Eye Cream includes Alpine Stem Cells

and OsmoTec. The former protects the

skin cell DNA from UV damage and

free radicals, while the latter improves

the processing of active ingredients

by creating an osmotic balance within

the skin cells, which, in turn, favours

the further processing of active

ingredients in the cells.

Multivector Peptide activates the

skin’s own production

of hyaluronic acid so

that moisture can be

better bound to

the skin. The skin

around the eyes

appears firm

and smooth, while hibiscus extract

loosens micro-tensions in the skin and

visibly reduces expression lines.

ExfoliationThe Six Eye & Lip Soft Exfoliator is

suitable for all skin types, and is a rich,

super-hydrating peeling cream that

gently exfoliates the most delicate

eye and lip area, leaving the skin

luminous, perfectly hydrated and silky

smooth. Active ingredients include

Super Moisturing Fruit Acid Complex,

Peph-Ctive, Iricalmin and Pentavitn.

Also from Six is the Eye & Lip Mask,

a nourishing treatment mask with

anti-ageing properties to regenerate,

hydrate and soften the eye and lip

contour area.

Skin ecologyEsse recently released its Eye Contour

Cream as a part of the Esse Plus line

launch, which focuses on probiotics

and plant-based, anti-ageing actives

new to skincare. The Eye Contour

Cream incorporates Esse’s Biome

Plus technology aimed at guiding

skin ecology to an ideal state. It

incorporates two primary actives

specifically aimed at eye skin health

and renewal.

Belides extract – most under-

eye pigmentation issues are caused

by post-inflammatory hyper-

pigmentation, particularly in darker

skin. Belides acts on this by reducing

the transfer rate of melanosomes

from melanocytes to normal skin

cells. Each melanocyte is in contact

with approximately 36 skin cells and

delivers melanosomes to all of them.

This is largely prevented, and a very

strong lightening effect is achieved

on dark circles that are caused by

pigmentation.

Albizia julibrissin extract lifts the

upper eyelids, reduces crow’s feet

wrinkles and diminishes puffiness. It

has been shown to improve collagen

synthesis by 256% and elastin

synthesis by 256%, helping to prevent

rupture of capillaries in the fragile

networks below the eye. The product

also improves the appearance of

wrinkles around the eye by between

14% and 33% in two weeks.

Dermal deliveryeyeSlices represents a global first in

cryogel technology by harnessing an

incredible dermal delivery system that

slowly releases active ingredients and

moisture into the skin.

Within just five minutes, these

innovative, fresh, re-usable therapeutic

eye treatment pads target puffiness,

dark circles, tiredness, redness

and signs of aging. The restorative

properties go to work straight away,

helping to soothe and cool the eye

contours. PB


61 nails

With access to so many different social media channels nowadays, there is absolutely no excuse for nail salons and techs not to get the word out there, writes Sonette van rensburg.

Nailing socialmedia marketing

R


62 nails

Gone are the days when

we were solely reliant

on flyers, posters or

newspaper ads to

market ourselves and

our nail businesses.

Whether you are a salon, a self-

employed nail technician or a

professional product supplier, social

media marketing can and should have

a very positive impact on you and your

business. But it can also end up having

a negative one, if not executed and

followed through properly.

There is a lot of information and

engagement which you can get

through to your clients via social

media, however be careful how you go

about it. Engaging with your clients

and getting the correct message

across is going to be vitally important

and so will what you do once you have

jump-started a social media presence.

I would suggest that you do some

research before you do and consider

the following questions:

Which social media platforms

should you use and how many? How

do you know which social media

channels will suit your business?

What should you be blogging about

or posting to benefit your business?

Where do you start and how?

Sally Harvey, owner of Edge

Communications & Marketing, believes

that it is really important to educate

yourself with regards to social media

marketing, before diving head first

into a social media swimming pool

and drowning.

“With umpteen different social

media channels available such as

Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Snap

Chat, Linked-In and blog sites, to

mention a few. Knowing which ones

are going to be right for you can be

quite confusing and even daunting,

especially when you don’t know much

about them or where and how to get

started.

“See what others have done in the

same type of business as you and

what type of social media channels

are working best for them, and

whether it has proven to be successful

or not, judging by the responses they

are getting. I believe it’s vital to focus

your attention on where you know

your audience is going to be hanging

out. Streamline your content and have

a strategy in place; don’t just post

content all over the place or else you

will not achieve the success rate you

expect. It’s all about what to post, how

to post and when to post. Remember

that over posting can cause your

recipient to see it as spam and cause

your company to loose social media

followers", explains Harvey.

Creating and building your brandWith the nail industry having become

very competitive, it is vitally important

to know and understand how to

market yourself effectively by building

your own personal brand to engage

with your target audience. This also

lets everyone know what business

you are in. Personal branding is about

focusing and building on what makes

you unique and learning to use your

talents to add value. It is important

to assess your talents and know what

your areas of expertise are, be they

nail art, nail enhancement application,

natural nail care, product supply or

education. Ensure that you hone in on

that so that people can benefit from it.

Remember that first impressions

are lasting impressions, so creating a

good solid personal brand is what is

going to make you stand out from the

competition. Once you have done this

you can take the next step, using the

right social media marketing channels

available to drive your brand and

communicate your message to your

audience. By building a good brand

presence, you will build relationships,

which in turn will help to build your

business.

Communicating your brandCreativity is definitely an important

factor when communicating your

message, however keep logos,

colours, tag lines, mission statements

and messaging consistent, as this is

how people will be able to identify and

relate to your brand, especially if it is

captivating and unique.

Be careful of posting the same old

SEARCH ENGiNE OPTiMiSATiONAnother really important factor to consider is making sure that the blog posts you write and share are optimised for search engines, so that you aren’t just attracting any kind of visitors, but a specifically targeted audience, which you can convert into a potential client.

Be consistent and target the correct keywords and search phrases relating to your business. Although humour, fun phrases and tag lines are great and appeal to a lot of people, you need to remember that Google is not going to recognise their relevance, meaning that when someone you may want to target googles your key words, you’ll want your content to show up. If it’s not optimised for search engines, your content won’t show up.

NAIlING SoCIAl MEDIA MArkETING


63 nails

content day in and day out as

it can get stale and boring.

Set up an editorial calendar

and keep to it. Be original

and creative and don’t

copycat – it can and

will reflect negatively

on you should you get

caught out.

Make sure your

content is timely,

accurate, thoughtful,

u n p r e d i c t a b l e ,

informative and even

funny; however don’t

forget to keep it relevant.

Keep up to date with the

latest happenings and events

in your industry. Knowledge

is power, so make yourself

memorable. Educate people about

yourself and what you do. The secret

is to come up with fresh ideas and

ways to achieve that on an ongoing

basis.

Active engagementYvette Nel, marketing

manager for LCN, believes

that to achieve success with

social media marketing and

for it to be effective, one

needs to commit to daily

activity on your salon page.

“If nothing is happening

on your page, your page will

generate nothing,” continues

Nel. “It doesn’t really cost

you money and it’s worth the effort.

Content can be anything from specials,

‘before and after’ transformations, nail

art, product information – anything

to create awareness about what you

have to offer and your creative ability.

“It’s very important to know your

chosen profession or product. Give

the correct information to the client

on home care like the do’s and don’ts,

for example. This information can be

used and included on small flyers

or posts on social media so as to

create awareness. Uninformed clients

can have a negative effect on your

business so always make sure you

educate them about your products,

what they do and how to use them

effectively.”

BloggingThe best advice is to blog as often as

you are able to, offering valuable and

relevant information. Research shows

that companies who have blogs get

55% more website traffic.

One thing with blog posts that

you need to remember though, is

that you will be giving away plenty

of information, so you need to make

sure you link it with a call to action.

For example, if you are posting tips

and tricks on nail art, offer something

related such as a nail art workshop or

seminar.

Share information and comment

on other posts and blogs of like-

minded people in the industry, but be

sure to keep your comments positive

and professional. Social media has

unfortunately been used as

a tool to criticise and post

negativity about products,

brands and even people.

When sharing your

tweets and Facebook

and blog posts,

remember to space

them out to ensure

everyone in your

target audience sees

them. The weekends

are a great time and

sometimes the only

time when people are

able to catch up.

ImpactThe best way that you can

measure whether social media

is having the positive impact you

expect it to have, is to monitor it.

With Facebook, for example, you can

measure whether your posts are being

effective by the reach you are getting,

and seeing by means of a weekly report

exactly how many

people are viewing

your posts, and most

importantly whether

they are commenting

and sharing them. With

Twitter you can see all

this by the amount of

followers you have.

If you are not able

to manage the social

media activity yourself,

then it will be in your best interest to

commission a company who could do

that for you.

Participate in social media but

make sure it works.PB

Sonette van rensburg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 26 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty tehnology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. Email: [email protected] or tel: 076 585 4191

64 products

In the marketOur round-up of newly launched products.

r

App-pealing toolWith ESP’s new app, salon and spa clients

can interact with their client record card in

ESP via a tablet Android App. Add new client

contact information, update existing

client contact information and

complete the beauty consultation

card and/or hair consultation

card using this new tool.

086 110 6203

r

Return of radianceWith its Rosee Soin-Radiance

Replenishing Oil, Phytomer

has created a dry oil that

is both lightweight and

comfortable. It replenishes,

nourishes, moisturises and

restores radiance to the skin.

Ingredients include Rose Oil,

Gorse Oil, Jojoba Oil and

D-Tox Microalgae Oil.

011 486 4904

Triple whammyDermalogica’s newly

reformulated Sheer

Tint SPF20 offers

three key functions in

one versatile product.

It offers improved

wearability with a

more fluid texture that

glides easily over skin.

The pigment blends,

available in Light,

Medium and Dark tones,

have been calibrated

to reflect global client

feedback on colour

compatibility.

011 268 0018

Cheers!Collagen Lift Paris is a daily

collagen drink that is easily

absorbed by the body and

has been proven in clinical

trials in Germany and France

to increase collagen densities,

reduce wrinkles by up to 50%

and increase the skin’s elasticity

and hydration. It is further

enhanced with Mediterranean

seaweed extract and Vitamin C.

086 111 1990

r

r



65 medical aesthetics

The concept of addressing the

ageing mid-face in aesthetic

surgery is less than three

decades old. There is now an

increased aesthetic awareness of

the three-dimensional changes in the curves

and contours of the lower eyelids and the

tissues of the cheek beneath them.

It is imperative to comprehend mid-

face ptosis (descent) and volume loss in

the overall morphology of facial ageing.

The specialist plastic surgeon or aesthetic

physician, who believes mid-facial concerns

can be addressed only by facelift surgical

options, or through volumisation techniques

of the nasolabial fold, the tear trough

and cheek, must be very careful of the

multifactorial processes at work. These

changes are often the first ones that bring

patients into the aesthetic surgeon’s office,

and a complete understanding of all the

Advancements in our understanding of the anatomy

and the pathophysiology of ageing have led to the development of multiple

techniques to rejuvenate this area, writes Dr Gabriel Doucas.

Mid-facial rEJUVENATIoN

R


66 medical aesthetics

options open for correction in this

region is a necessity for any practising

aesthetic surgeon.

Anatomy and ageingA sound working knowledge of

the bones, muscles, innervation,

vasculature, retaining ligaments, fat

deposits and skin of the face is the

cornerstone to precise, reproducible

and aesthetically pleasing rejuvenation

results.

Anatomically, the mid-face is

bordered superiorly by a horizontal

line drawn from the medial to the

lateral canthus and inferiorly by a line

drawn from the inferior border of the

tragal cartilage to the lateral edge of

the oral commisure. It can be divided

into anterior and lateral components

by a line drawn from the lateral orbital

rim to the lateral oral commisure. The

midcheek refers to the triangular area

of the anterior mid-face between

the lower eyelid and nasolabial fold.

Supero-medially, the cheek abuts the

nose. The lateral border of the mid-

cheek is the point where it extends

over the zygomatic arch.

Facial ageing is a multifactorial,

three-dimensional process, with

anatomic, biochemical and genetic

influences. Many exogenous

(solar exposure, smoking, alcohol,

medications, gravity) and endogenous

factors (body mass index, genetics,

endocrine status) can significantly

impact cutaneous and subcutaneous

ageing.

The contour of the mid-face

changes over time – starting as early

as the middle of the fourth decade of

life.

In youth: the mid-face is full,

uniform and plump. The malar

prominence is triangular in shape, with

the apex at the junction of the maxilla

and zygomatic bones – conveying a

heart-shaped appearance.

with ageing: degenerative changes

occur in nearly every anatomic

component of the mid-face and

include cranial bone remodelling,

tissue descent, fat atrophy and

deterioration in the condition and

appearance of the skin. The mid-face

deflates, leading to a double convexity

of the cheek.

Treatment solutionsAs with most cosmetic concerns, the

options available for the improvement,

and even correction, of the mid-facial

ageing battle can be divided into

surgical and non-surgical solutions.

Each treatment option carries

advantages and disadvantages.

The mid-face is an area of relative

controversy. Many of the procedures

that have been innovated over the

past 20 years are complex and are

associated with steep learning curves

with serious, and often difficult

to manage, complications. Some

surgeons are sceptical of the longevity

of the procedures designed to correct

changes in this area. Additionally,

it was noted that after surgery the

patient’s face looked tighter, but not

necessarily younger.

SurgicalTrans-eyelid composite and

subperiosteal approaches are

designed to achieve the correct

vertical vector of pull that achieves

the best aesthetic rejuvenation

results. These interventions require

skill, expertise, experience and a well-

educated patient willing to endure the

inevitable downtime associated with

them.

Of great importance has been the

realisation of volume loss in ageing

and volume replacement in cosmetic

It is imperative to comprehend mid-face ptosis (descent) and volume loss

in the overall morphology of facial ageing.


67

surgery. As a result, it has

become evident that by

making small corrections to

the mid-face, big changes

are realised in the final

result. Synergy results in the

situation when the total is

greater than the sum of the

parts; this phenomenon is

common with simple mid-

facial augmentation.

Mid-face augmentationThe main advantage of

implants is that they are a

permanent option when

compared with fillers and lifting

procedures. The cheek mid-face

implants lie in the subperiosteal

plane, tight to the bone, and are not

subject to the soft tissue changes

of the more superficial planes.

They are available in a vast array

of anatomical sizes and shapes to

customise augmentation. They are

easily placed; the recovery is minimal,

and the complication rate is low. They

can be performed as an individual

procedure or part of other facial or

non-facial aesthetic interventions.

The silicone structure (Silastic versus

tissue integrated options) renders

them very biocompatible and they are

not subject to degradation seen with

fillers and fat grafts. Very importantly,

they are reversible.

Finally, with computer assisted

design and/ or computer assisted

manufacturing technology, customised

facial implants can be fabricated to

personalise the augmentation as well

as to correct defects and asymmetries.

Fat transfer – autologous fat

injection of the mid-face is a viable

and lasting remedy for mid-face soft

tissue loss and has become a mainstay

in facial rejuvenation. This serves as

either a stand-alone technique or

as an adjunct to other restorative

lifting and repositioning techniques

depending on patient needs. Although

the use of fat grafting carries the

inherent concern for resorption and

a need for additional augmentation

in the future, correct technique

and patient education can assist in

better and more reliable graft take.

It is considered a fairly safe, easy and

quick solution to mid-face ageing.

Non-surgicalInjectable synthetic fillers are further

subdivided into permanent and

temporary fillers. It is strongly advised

to steer away from the permanent

products due to the potential for early

and late complications that can have

devastating consequences.

These soft tissue fillers are injected

into the skin and/or subcutaneous

tissues to help fill in facial wrinkles,

restoring a smoother appearance and

more youthful contours. The effect

lasts for about six months or longer

but for more successful results, it is

important to have healthy skin, a skilful

doctor administering the product,

and, of course, the right type of filler.

Barbed sutures were initially

promising and approved by the FDA

for mid-face procedures but are no

longer available for mid-face lifting.

Silhouette Sutures (Silhouette Lift,

Corona, California) may reverse

this and provide long-term success.

Polylactic Acid (PLA) is the principal

component of these, and, it is

biocompatible with human beings –

also completely biodegradable. Once

the suture has been applied, the PLA

acts on the deeper layers of the skin

and helps increase the volume of

saggy areas, restoring shapeliness to

the face, gradually and naturally. We

Dr Gabriel Doucas MBChB (UFS), FC Plastic Surgery (SA) is a plastic and reconstructive surgeon based at Netcare Linksfield Hospital in Johannesburg. His areas of focus are cosmetic surgery, non-surgical aesthetics, skin lesion surgery, head & neck reconstruction and lipodystrophy-related surgery. He is a co-founder of Pure Aesthetics and a full member of APRSSA.

await long-term studies

of patients treated with

these devices and more

clinical experience needs

to be published.

Botulinum Toxin Type

A (neurotoxin) is used

to temporarily lessen

the appearance of facial

wrinkles, and, in this area

the ones around the eyes

– ‘crow’s feet’ lines.

Dermaceuticals – skin-

care products may not

give volume but they

can definitely offer skin

rejuvenation that goes

hand in hand with mid-face and overall

facial rejuvenation. They contain

antioxidants and other plant-based

or natural treatments (alpha-hydroxy

acid, salicylic acid and hyaluronic

acid) that can counter free radicals

that damage skin cell DNA.

ConclusionIt is often said that if a problem

has more than one technique or

solution, that no one procedure works

definitively. Despite the variety of

techniques described, we do not feel

this way about mid-facial rejuvenation.

Success in this area of the face can

be attained with many different

techniques combined or on their own.

There will no doubt be many other

techniques, procedures, implantables,

and devices in the future that will

come and try to establish their

dominance in mid-facial rejuvenation.

It is therefore imperative that we

continue our careful scrutiny and

cautious application of these for the

safety of our patients. PB

medical aesthetics


68 saahsp

It is with joy and happiness that I can

announce that Roelene Groenewald,

who was selected as the South African

National Champion at the WorldSkills

SA Competition held in Cape Town

in January 2015, and who competed

at the WorldSkills Competition as

the South African Beauty Therapy

Competitor, was awarded the Best

of Nation Medal. She is now ranked

number 13 in the world.

The Best of Nation Medal is awarded

to the competitor who has obtained

the highest marks or is selected by

the nation’s Technical Delegate for

their outstanding performance. Team

South Africa was placed 27th overall

out of 50 countries.

On behalf of WorldSkills South

Africa and Roelene Groenewald, I

would like to extend our sincerest

thanks and appreciation to the

sponsors and trainers, namely:

ITEC: Jane Foulston provided generous cash sponsorship to cover all unsponsored training materials, equipment, products, travel and accommodation for Roelene Groenewald and Menna Kleine. Elaine Willemse provided expert pre-assessments of all basic skills.

Dermalogica SA: Provided a complete product range of professional skin and body treatment products. Annique Herbert and Lusinda Burch provided specialised product training at their Cape Town training facility.

Kryolan: SA: Neil Wilkinson provided

make-up products and equipment for practice and the competition.

Sparkle Nail Academy: Provided all the Morgan Taylor, Gellish and Harmony products and training for the Nail Technology and Nail Art Test Project. The trainer was Elana Jooste, guided by Lucia Oosthuizen.

Isa Carstens Academy: Isabel Carstens Roos provided training facilities and staff. Zoya Nell, Amanda Schooling, Marelise Uys and the Isa trainers, students and clients assisted in completing the Facial and Body Therapy training, back-up training for the nail technology tasks and acted as training models.

Guilma Stander – Make-up Expert: Provided specialised make-up tasks (courtesy of Isa Carstens).

Lizna Nel – BN Academy (Regional Expert): Provided the Lomi Lomi massage training and assistance with the skills assessments.

As the appointed National Expert, I

provided the expert assistance in skills

assessment and WorldSkills training.

The tremendous support each

individual and entity gave us by

providing our training team with the

necessary funds, equipment and

specialised training was exceptionally

generous.

WorldSkills takes place every

two years and every aspect of the

competition is run along the lines

that this is the Olympics of Skills.

Competitors must not be older than

22 years.

Competitors had to perform several

modules during the competition,

namely Facial Skin Treatments; Lash

and Brow Tint; Spa – Body Treatment,

Body Massage, Express Facial and

Full Body Massage (Lomi Lomi Style);

Spa Manicure and Pedicure; Evening

make-up with artificial tips application

and French gel polish; and Fantasy

Make-up and Nail Art.

Judging criteria were: professional

attitude; client preparation;

preparation and cleaning of

workstation; and treatment execution.

For more information go to http://

www.worldskillssa.org/sao-paolo.html

Cidesco Section South Africa Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

From 11 to 16 August 2015, Brazil played host to the 43rd edition of the main professional education event in the world, the worldskills Competition, held at Anhembi Park in são Paulo. Menna kleine reports.

LEFT: Roelene Goenewald (South African competitor), Andrea Donoghue (Irish competitor), Tara O’Halloran Cronin (Irish expert) and Menna Kleine (South African expert). Both the South African and Irish competitors were sponsored by ITEC.

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This luxuriously soft two sided cleansing cloth requires only water to remove ALL makeup, including waterproof mascara and stay-fast lipstick, effortlessly and effectively.

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• 100% Natural extractgreen tea and bees wax• 5 minute application

• wash off with face cleaner & waterwww.wow3dfiberlashes.com

Enhance eyelashes by 300%

B-MEDLasers and Devices for Medical and Aesthetic Applications

MEDICAL AESTHETICS

Li Pigments nowavailable in S.A!

Convenient online shop: www.imagedivisionsupplies.co.za

Nikki van Gend 0448741303


72 classifieds

HAIR

Hot Hair Pieces has been supplying the hair industry for the past 8 years with a variety of Hair braids and Hair Extensions including:

• 100% PREBONDED REMY HAIR • HUMAN HAIR WEAVES • SYNTHETIC HAIR WEAVES • BULKS • CLIP IN HAIR EXTENSIONS

• SOFT DREDS • HUMAN HAIR OPRAH CURL • BUNS and so much more.

Hot Hair Pieces is your hair salons best kept secret. We havemore than 21 years of experience in the making of hair extensions. We supply country wide and export as well. Contact us for your

next order. We look forward to hearing from you soon.

MANUFACTURERS OF ALL TYPES OF HAIR BRAIDS & HAIR EXTENSIONSTEL: 031 465 2128 CELL: 084 588 88800 • BBM 2AFC68A0

HOT HAIR PIECES®

www.hothairpieces.com

FOR SALE

For enquiries: Tel: 011 781 5970

ThE MAGAzINES ARE PUBLIShED AS fOLLOwS: •January/February •March/April •May•June•July •August•September •October/November •AnnualDirectory (appears in Jan)

REGULARS: Industry news, Spa news,

Business tips, Medical Aesthetics, Beauty product

focus, Latest products, Treatment reviews,

Nail updates, Spa and Salon reviews.

fEATURES: Lasers & IPLs, Body Shaping, Male

grooming, Permanent Make up, Anti-Ageing,

Software, Hair removal, Pigmentation, Show

previews, Sun protection, Slimming wraps,

Microneedling, Fragrances and candles,

Ingredients... and more.

Subscribe for R475.00

FEATURE YOUR

PRODUCTS AND SERVICES

To find out more call 011 781-5970

7f04488a 082 329 7757 031-4670377

Take your business tothe next level with

100% Remy Hair • Affordable, Easy to use SolutionsWE offER fREE TRAining

WHolESAlER of: Weaves • Prebonded Hair• Clip in extensions & much more

Find us on:Visit www.theextensionstudio.co.za

National Ozone Technologies: 082 554 3874 / 079 8776806 www.ozonetechnologies.co.za

Cleanse your body internally to get complete results externally

up to R30 000 additional income pm!

101 treatment protocalls

NO steam/ No humidity

BEFORE AFTER

The Ozone Detox Pod will expand your business and ensure greater market share. The unique combination of Ozone, Far infra-red and Bio Resonance (Rife like) treatment will exceed all your expectations.BEFORE AFTER

THE RESULT OF LIVE BLOOD ANALYSIS WITIN 24HRS

The impact of activated oxygen upon the bloodstream AFTER ONLY 2 SESSIONS

X-RAYS OF SCOLIOSIS AND SCHAUMANS AFTER ONE MONTH TREATMENTIt doesn’t matter what is applied on the outside,

you will never get the perfect result unless the

body is repaired from the inside.• Live blood analysis reveals a phenomenal

change in blood cell formation after only

2 treatments• The Ozone Detox Pod effectively enables

oxygen into the blood stream• Bone degeneration and Bone structure improvement

Get oxygen back into the blood

to improve your wellbeing

Call: Zelda Pretorius, Tel: 076 606 6021E-mail: [email protected]

Cleanse your body internally to get complete results externally

For Sale

THE RESULT OF LIVE BLOOD

ANALYSIS WITHIN 24HRS

AFTERBEFORE

Contact - Ashley: 084 708 5701Place Orders - 078 498 7765Email - [email protected]

La Rashe La_Rashe @la_rashe_hautecouture

www.larashe.co.za

Contact - Ashley: 084 708 5701Place Orders - 078 498 7765Email - [email protected]

La Rashe La_Rashe @la_rashe_hautecouture

www.larashe.co.za

@La_rashehair

[email protected] Ashley Munetsi: 078 498 7765

It’s not just hair,

it’s a lifestyle.

BEAUTY ONLINE: VISIT: www.probeauty.co.za

A perfect add-on to your Salon business!

Made inthe U.S.A.

A perfect add-on to your Salon business!The state-of-the-art in ear piercing

Safe • fast • sterile• painless • easy to use

Hypoallergenic Guaranteed SterileSurgical Stainless Steel & 24k Gold Plated

A STUDEX® Ear Piercing Servicein your business will:- increase foot traffic add new customers increase sales of existing store services and merchandising

Pro Beauty Oct- Nov 2015

Documents

Transcript of Pro Beauty Oct- Nov 2015