prague

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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

PRAGUE

Velvet RevolutionThe 20th anniversary

Czech SpasRelaxing all over the country

October - November 2009October - November 2009

“In Your Pocket:“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well- A cheeky, well- written series of guidebooks.”written series of guidebooks.”

The New York TimesThe New York Times

Hotel Absolutumboutique hotel in Prague

Jablonského 639/4, 170 00 Praha 7 T:+420 222 541 406, F:+420 222 541 407Email: [email protected]

Hotel Absolutum is pleased to announce that pop and disco band BONEY M. was a VIP guest. For more information see www.absolutumhotel.cz

BONEY M.

5CONTENTS

October - November 2009prague.inyourpocket.com

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

Arrival & Getting Around 8

Culture & Events 10Theatre, Festivals

Velvet Revolution 15

Hotels - Where to stay 16Whatever your budget or needs

Restaurants 24Guláš to gourmet and everything in between

Cafés 40Historical slices of Czech life with cake

Czech Spas 42Relaxing all over the country

Contents

Nightlife 54Explore the depths of Prague’s bars and clubs

SightseeingEssential sights 64The castle, the bridge, the clock

DirectoryShopping 74Business 75Lifestyle 76

Adult entertaiment 81

Maps & IndexStreet index 86City centre map 87City map 88-89Index 90

Georg Baselitz Through 6 December

© Ursula Schulz

www.inyourpocket.com

6

Prague In Your Pocket

FOREWORD

prague.inyourpocket.com

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

Editorial Editor Jacy MeyerContributors Jacy Meyer, Wendy Wrangham,Jeroen van MarleLayout & Design Tomáš HamanPhotos Jeroen van Marle,Tomáš Haman, Wendy Wrangham,Ursula Schulz, Robin DivilaCover: © Oleksandr Kolesnyk, dreamstime.com

Sales & Circulation General Manager Michal JarešSales RepresentativesKlea Radeva - mob. 733 602 [email protected]

Michal Jareš - mob. 721 810 [email protected]

Publisher Craig Turp

Autumn is a difficult time for the Prague In Your Pocket office. We are melancholy about the summer’s end; but in a way looking forward to brisk days and colourful trees. Luckily the excitement and action that is Prague comes into full play these months, giving our minds something else to dwell on besides the passing of long summer evenings. There’s a plethora of new exhibits, shows and festivals on right now; check out what’s happening when you are in town starting on Page 12. We are a nature loving country; especially when it comes to finding food in said nature. Last year, Czechs collected 2.75 billion Czech crowns from the woods. That’s not in lost mon-ey; that’s the approximate value of crops picked in the wild vegetation. According to statistics, mushrooms are number one and other forest fruits, like blueberries, raspberries, etc. follow. If you do want to try this Czech experience, take someone who knows what they are doing with you. There’s a saying – all mushrooms are good. Once. Two holidays in October and November give Czechs a welcome day off. October 28 is Czechoslovak Statehood Day. Strangely celebrating the founding of a country that no long exists; under Communism the holiday was called Nationalization Day and “celebrated” the transfer of private property to the state. Be-sides closure of shops and such, especially outside the centre, President Václav Klaus will most likely give a celebratory ad-dress and wreathes will be placed at memorials. November 17 is always Freedom and Democracy Day; but this year it’s also the 20th anniversary of the Velvet Revolution. Read our special feature on this momentous event on Page 15. Get out and enjoy the lovely Prague autumn; we’ll be there with you!

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright PIYP s.r.o. 2000-2009. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Editor’s noteThe editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Prague In Your PocketV Jámě 1, Praha 1, 110 00Czech Republictel. +420 224 94 76 01fax +420 224 94 86 [email protected]

ISSN 1213-2128© PIYP s.r.o.

Printed by Tisk Horák, Ústí nad LabemPublished six times per year20,000 copies

Our team in Russia is preparing a rather special In Your Pocket guide right now to tie in with the 1150th aniversary of the city of Veliky Novgorod. Look out for a special supplement in our next Rus-sian guides and online at russia.inyourpocket.com. Elsewhere, you can now get your hands on Sarajevo In Your Pocket when visiting the Bosnian capital, and the same team - who have successfully pocketed Slovenia and Bosnia - are now turning their attention to Italy, and to Venice. We welcome enquiries from anyone who would like to take part in our Pocket Revolution, either by contributing content or starting up an IYP. Send us an email at [email protected].

Europe In Your Pocket

On our cover we feature the beautiful Baroque Valdštejnská zahrada or Wallenstein Gardens. The bronze statues here aren’t t h e o r i g i na l s ; t h os e we re “borrowed” by the Swedes at the end of the Thirty Years War. Experience this oasis of calm in the heart of Malá Strana.

Cover story

Berlin – city of change. Twenty years after the Wall came down, the city still pulsates with history, creativity, variety and diversity like nowhere else on earth. This is what makes Berlin truly unique.

To find out more, visit www.mauerfall09.de

be open, be free, be berlin.www.be.berlin.de

the place to be

for change.

8 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com

9ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT


4th CenturyThe present day Czech Republic was populated by Celts and it was the Celtic Boii tribe who gave the country its Latin name, Boiohaemum (Bohemia). 6th CenturyThe first Slavs travel from the east to the Prague area.7th CenturyAccording to legend a princess named Libuše marries a ploughman and founds the Premysl dynasty. She prophesies that a great city will rise above the banks of the Vltava.10th CenturyVáclav I, misleadingly later to be called the Good King Wenceslas in the Christmas carol, is murdered by his brother Boleslav. He becomes the country’s patron saint and his feast day is celebrated on 28 Sept. 14th CenturyIn 1346 Charles IV is crowned King of Bohemia, and in 1348 he founds Charles University in Prague, the first university in the Holy Roman Empire. Prague becomes the largest city in Europe, with 40,000-50,000 inhabitants. 15th CenturyOn 6 July, 1415 the protestant reformer Jan Hus is burnt at the stake. He becomes a martyr for the nationalist and Protestant movement that adopts his name. 16th CenturyIn 1526 the Hapsburg Duke Ferdinand I is elected as King of Bohemia. The dynasty will rule the Czech lands until 1918. 20th Century28 Oct, 1918 Following the defeat of Germany and Austria, the Empire dissolves into several national states and, Czechoslovakia finally becomes an independent republic. Tomáš Masaryk becomes its first president.15 Mar, 1939 The Wehrmacht invades and turns the Czech lands and Moravia into a protectorate, while Slo-vakia becomes an independent fascist state.5 May, 1945 The Prague Uprising. Five thousand die in four days of fierce fighting as the Czechs fight the Nazis for the city. Prague is finally liberated by the Soviets.Feb 1948 Assisted by the Soviet Army, the Czech Com-munist party takes power. The country will remain under the Soviet sphere of influence until 1989.Prague Spring 1968 Communist Party chairman Alex-ander Dubček makes efforts to establish “Socialism with a human face”. This includes releasing political prisoners and relaxing press censorship. His liberal ideals are brutally repressed by the invasion of Warsaw pact troops on the night of 20 Aug, 1968. In protest at the invasion 21 year old philosophy student Jan Palach sets himself alight on the steps of the National Museum.19 Nov, 1989 The Velvet Revolution 200,000 people de-mand democracy in a demonstration in Wenceslas Square. As crowds swell, the government gives in, and in 1990 former dissident Václav Havel is elected head of state.31 Dec, 1992 Dubbed The Velvet Divorce, Czechoslo-vakia divides into two independent states, Slovakia and the Czech Republic.21st CenturyAug 2002 Floods devastate the country and cause chaos and millions of crowns of damage as the Vltava rises.1 May, 2004 The Czech Republic joins the European Union.January-June 2009 Czech Republic holds the EU presidency.November 2009 Country celebrates 20 years post-Communism.

CZ: A brief historyArriving by PlanePraha Ruzyně Airport, tel. (+420) 220 11 33 14, fax (+420) 235 35 09 22, www.csl.cz. Prague's airport is 20km from the city centre. A taxi to the town centre now costs around 600Kčeven if you call a company to pick you up or talk to one of the representatives from reputable AAA. Don't pick one up from outside the terminal (click here for taxi firms). Alternatively, use the ČEDAZ minibus service (tel. 220 11 42 96, 05:30 - 21:30) that runs every half hour between the airport and Náměstí Republiky (F-2). Tickets cost 90Kč (including one piece of bag-gage, children under 10 free) and can be bought from the driver or from the booth in the arrival terminal. For an extra fee, ČEDAZ can also pick you up or drop you off at your hotel. The cheapest way to get into town is on by bus: N°119 (2-8 times per hour between 04:18 and 00:10 with at least one wheelchair-friendly bus per hour) runs between the airport and the Dejvická metro station (Line A, green) in about 20 minutes. From Dejvická it is just five stops to Muzeum in the centre of town. Bus N°100 whisks you to Zličín (metro Line B, yellow) from the airport in 13 minutes. There is a new Airport Express (AE) bus from Holešovice which runs every half an hour, whiz-zing you across the city in half an hour, whether you are arriving or departing. Special fares apply to this bus, tickets can only be bought from the driver and do not allow any transfers or other forms of transport. Tickets are 45/25Kč, dogs 25Kč and luggage is free. First & last buses from Holešovice 05:15 & 21:45, from the airport 04:40 & 21:10. A 26Kč transport ticket (plus a 18Kč one for big bags) will get you all the way into town or to the airport on all public transport except the Airport Express. Tickets can be bought at the friendly transport information desk in both arrival halls (open 07:00 - 22:00) or from the coin-operated machine at the airport bus stop, but not from the driver. You need to validate the ticket (once for the whole trip) in the machines on board the bus.Prague's new Terminal North 2 will allow for at least 4 mil-lion more passengers a year to travel into Prague with the ability to continue expansion. New bars, restaurants, shops and services ply their trade in this terminal which accom-modates flights to and from Schengen countries (Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Italy, Greece, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Norway, Portugal, Greece, Spain & Sweden).There is a left luggage facilty at the airport which doesn't close and costs 60Kč per item per day.

Arriving by TrainPrague has two main railway stations. Praha Hlavní nádraží (‘main station’, tel. 224 61 52 49) is architecturally fabulous (in the Jugendstil tradition) although you won’t know it until you exit its underground nightmare. However massive reconstruction has been going on, and if you’ve been here before you’ll see the obvious improvements. Ticket windows move randomnly, as do other services, so watch the signs. The work is scheduled to be completed in 2010. There is a tourist office (open 09:00 - 19:00. Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00) in the centre of the lower hall of the two levels. For your best money exchange deal, use the ATM on the far left of the lower hall. Train information can currently be found in the lower left of the hall as well as to the left of the middle passageway to the platforms. Left luggage (úschova) lockers are available. Getting to town involves one stop on the metro to Muzeum or a dangerous walk up busy Wilsonova. The second station, Praha Holešovice (tel. 224 61 58 65), is used by trains on the main Berlin - Prague - Vienna/Bratislava route. The small hall holds the ticket office (open 09:00 - 17:00, closed Sat, Sun), left luggage lockers, an internet café and several exchange and accommodation offices (open 06:00 - 23:00). It is three stops on the metro to Muzeum.

There are two classes on international trains, and prices vary according to length of journey and class; expect to pay one third more for first class tickets. For multilingual, quick and friendly service, avoid the queues at the hlavní nádraží counters and buy your ticket at Wasteels or at the CR agency.

Arriving by BusFlorenc Bus Station J-3, Praha 8, Křižíkova 4, tel. (+420) 900 14 44 44, www.idos.cz. Most international buses arrive at Prague's central Florenc bus station (Auto-busové nádraží Praha Florenc, open 05:00 - 23:00), which is also the watering hole of several endemic species living solely on alcohol. For information on bus times inquire at window N°8 (open 06:00 - 21:00). Alternatively, use the handy computer in front of window N°8 to search for your specific bus from the timetables online at the excellent www.idos.cz, which searches all forms of land transport. Window N°6 (open 05:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:30) sells tickets for the ever popular Czech National Express (Český Národní Expres) buses to Brno. The kiosk between window N°4 and 5 (open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00 - 15:00, Sun 08:30 - 15:30) is an exchange office and also sells public transport tickets, maps and guides. The nearest ATM is at Florenc metro station, which is next to the bus station.Eurolines J-3, Praha 8, Křižíkova 6 (Florenc bus station), tel. (+420) 224 21 86 80, www.bei.cz. The main European bus operator. They also sell various travel passes. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.

Car rentalAvis I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská 46, tel. (+420) 221 85 12 25, fax (+420) 221 85 12 29, www.avis.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Budget E-1, Praha 1, nám. Curierových 5 (InterConti-nental Hotel), tel. (+420) 296 63 09 95, fax (+420) 222 31 95 95, www.budget.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Airport office, tel. 220 11 32 53, open 08:00 - 22:00. Reservation centre tel. 235 32 57 13. AHertz H-5, Praha 2, Karlovo nám. 15, tel. (+420) 225 34 50 31, fax (+420) 225 34 50 39, www.hertz.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Also at Praha 6, Evropská 15 (Diplomat Hotel), tel. 225 34 50 41, open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat & Sun. Airport office tel. 225 34 50 21, open 08:00 - 22:00.

TaxisAAA - Radiotaxi, tel. (+420) 222 33 32 22, www.aaa-radiotaxi.cz. The most reputable company in town. Ordering by SMS is possible at tel. 606 99 90 69 but requires preregistration.Airport Cars P.O.Box 100, 160 08 Praha 6, tel. (+420) 220 11 38 92, www.airport-cars.cz. The silver cars with AVIS stickers waiting outside the airport arrivals hall charge 650Kč for a ride to the city centre. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.Prague Airport Shuttle, www.prague-airport-shuttle.com. QNPrague Airport Transfers, tel. (+420) 800 87 08 88, www.prague-airport-transfers.co.uk.

Travel agenciesEuroagentur Praha Praha 10, K Horkám 23, tel. (+420) 271 09 08 31, fax (+420) 271 75 02 74, www.euroagentur.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Mary's Travel & Tourist Services J-5, Praha 2, Italská 31, tel. (+420) 222 25 40 07, www.marys.cz.QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.

Prague’s public transport system (Dopravní podnik) is efficient, fast and reasonably clean. With three metro lines, 26 tram routes and 9 night trams you won’t need the bus routes that avoid the centre. Keep in mind that the centre of Prague is easily accessible on foot.

Tickets, valid for all means of transport, can be pur-chased from the numerous vending machines at all metro stations, major tram stops and news stands. You always need to validate your ticket yourself by stamping it in the machines at metro entrances and on trams. The most common ticket is the 26Kč transfer ticket, which is valid for 75 minutes after validating (90 minutes between 22:00 and 05:00, on weekends and public holidays). The 18Kč non-transfer ticket is meant for tram rides under 20 minutes with no changes, or in the metro for up to 5 stations (changes allowed) from the departure station within 30 minutes. We suggest you save yourself time by buying a handful of these on arrival. If you’re planning to stay a bit and explore, get the one-day pass (100Kč), a three-day pass (330Kč) or a five-day pass (500Kč). Children under 6 travel free; and tickets are half price up to 15 years old. Large pieces of luggage (including rucksacks) cost an extra 13Kč while dogs ride the rails for 26Kč. Fines for no validated tickets are 500Kč if paid on the spot or pay 1,000Kč later.

The funicular railway and night tram tickets are 26Kč.

Trams trundle around town every few minutes; useful lines are N°22 and 23 which run from the centre up to the rear entrance of the castle, saving you the uphill walk. The metro connects the two main train stations and Florenc bus station to the centre and runs up to just after midnight, after which the night trams (the warm mobile home to many a smelly tramp) take over, zipping in all directions from the Lazarská stop (H-5) every half hour. Tram information is on the red signs at each stop and is generally correct assuming of course that some worn out Škoda hasn’t died on the tram lines.

Beware of Prague’s ultra-professional pickpockets, especially on trams N°22 and 23 and in busy metro cars; consider waiting for the next train if it looks squeezed.

For more information visit Dopravní podnik’s excellent website with English and German information on routes and schedules, at www.dpp.cz, or call tel. 222 62 37 77.

Travel Information Centre I-5,, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 296 19 18 17 (07:00 - 21:00), www.dpp.cz. All you ever wanted to know about routes, tariffs, tickets, timetables, re-routings and service disruptions, maps and general information about Prague’s bus, tram and metro system from friendly, multi-lingual folk. Apart from the airport offices, these are found at the metro stations. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Also at E-4, Můstek, Jungmannovo nám., open 07:00 - 18:00, closed Sat & Sun; Andĕl, open 07:00 - 18:00, closed Sat & Sun; Prague Airport terminals 1 & 2, open 07:00 - 22:00.

Public Transport

10 CULTURE & EVENTS


11CULTURE & EVENTS


Prague is something of a cultural Mecca, and not just be-cause of the affordable tickets. There was always a lively tradition here (Mozart was celebrated as a hero in Prague while shunned in Vienna), and the influx of culture-hungry tourists in the past decade has led to an enormous variety of concerts. Tickets are best and easiest booked via the ticket agencies. Remember, going to the theatre or opera is still something of an event in Prague, and it’s courteous to dress up when visiting.

Black Light TheatreA Prague speciality; fluorescent mime actors and puppets moving in front of a black background. Great for children, and for adults too.

All Colour s Theatre E-4, Praha 1, Ry tířská 31, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 221 61 01 73, www.blacktheatre.cz. Tickets 450Kč. Q Per formances star t at 20:30.Animato F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 10, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 281 93 26 65, www.volny.cz/black.theatre. Tickets 430Kč. Q Performances start at 20:30.Image Black Theatre E-1, Praha 1, Pařížská 4, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 44 58, www.imagetheatre.cz. Tickets 480Kč. Q Performances start at 20:00.Jiří Srnec Black Light Theatre D-4, Praha 1, Národní 20, tel. (+420) 721 58 92 44, www.blacktheatresrnec.cz. Tickets 520Kč. Q Performances start at 19:30.Metro Theatre D-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 25, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 221 08 52 76, www.blacktheatreprague.cz. Tickets 440Kč. The performance is followed by a workshop and lasts about 80 minutes. Q Performances start at 20:00.

Palace Theatre I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 43, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 22 88 14, www.palacethe-atre.cz. Tickets 140 - 340Kč. Q Performances start at 20:00.Ta Fantastika D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 8, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 22 13 66, www.tafantastika.cz. Tickets 700Kč. Q Performances start at 21:30.WOW Show (Theater Blanik) I-4, Praha 1, Vaclavske namesti 56, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 03 21 72, [email protected], www.wow-show.com. Tickets 550Kč. Q Performances start at 20:00.

CinemaMultiplex cinemas are big business, although the smaller, older independents survive on their quirky, less Hollywood-dictated programmes and cheaper tickets. Village, Palace and City Cinemas are the more expensive multiplexes (159 - 199Kč) although there is discount Monday, Tuesday & Wednesday, with tickets for 109Kč - see below for details. Czech and other non-English language films are not usually subtitled in English, but we do have access to more titles now. English language films are usually subtitled, except kids’ films which are dubbed. For listings see www.expats.cz.

Aero Praha 3, Biskupcova 31, tel. (+420) 271 77 13 49, www.kinoaero.cz. A cool little arthouse cinema in Žižkov; tram N°9 to Biskupcova. Q Tickets 40 - 95Kč.Cinema City Flóra Praha 3, Vinohradská 149, MFlóra, tel. (+420) 255 74 20 21, www.cinemacity.cz. Includes an IMAX theatre. Q Tickets 159Kč, Tue 109Kč. Also at Galaxie, Arkalycká 1; Zličín, Řevnická 1.Lucerna I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 36, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 21 69 72, www.multikino.cz. Apparently the longest-running cinema in Prague with Czech and English language films. A classic.

Palace Cinemas Slovanský Dům F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 22, tel. (+420) 257 18 12 12, www.palaceci-nemas.cz. Popular city-centre multiplex, which is often the only cinema with English language versions of films other cinemas show dubbed. Q Tickets 159Kč, Wed 109Kč. Also at Letňany, Veselská 663; Nový Smíchov, Plzeňská 8; Park Hostivař, Švehlova 32.Ponrepo D-4, Praha 1, Bartolomějská 11, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 224 23 32 81, www.sweb.cz/mjos/ponrepo/index.html. The official theatre of the National Film Archive and membership can be bought from 14.00 - 18.00 Mon - Fri for 150/100Kč.Světozor I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 41, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 94 75 66, www.kinosvetozor.cz. An arthouse cinema showing classic, current and less mainstream movies, plus Czech movies with English subtitles. Q Tickets 100/50Kč.Village Cinemas Anděl Praha 5, Radlická 1E, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 251 11 51 11, www.villagecinemas.cz. An-other cinema complex, this one has an European art house cinema and Gold Class, where you sit in armchairs and can eat and drink to your heart’s content. Q Tickets 159Kč, Mon 109Kč. Also at Village Cinemas Černý most.

Concerts & OperaThe architecture is superb, but be sure to catch this as-pect that has added to Prague’s fame, her music. Mozart wasn’t wrong to embrace Prague as fervently as Prague embraced Mozart.

Municipal House F-3, Praha 1, Nám. Republiky 5, tel. (+420) 222 00 21 21, www.obecni-dum.cz. Housing a variety of halls, the stunning Art Nouveau Obecní dům is the venue for many classical concerts. Outside, you’ll always find

dressed-up people selling tickets for the ‘best of Mozart’-type shows, which can be great as they’re usually well performed, and good for children too as they’re not too long. Q Booking office open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 200 - 1,300Kč.State Opera I-4, Praha 1, Wilsonova 4, tel. (+420) 224 22 72 66, www.opera.cz. A fabulous neo-Rococo pile quite unfortunately wedged between the station, National Museum and two busy roads. Built in 1888 for Prague’s German Theatre Association, it is worth a visit for the glamorous gold-and-plush interior and the view of the sumptuous ceiling alone. Operas are usually performed in the original language, with Czech or English subtitles projected above the stage. For tours of the building, contact Prague’s tourist office. Q Booking office open 10:00 - 17:30; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 17:30. Tickets 100 - 1,150Kč.Stavovské divadlo (Estates Theatre) E-3, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 1, tel. (+420) 224 22 85 03, www.narodni-di-vadlo.cz. The first theatre to be built in Prague, and it was also here that Mozart’s Don Giovanni made its debut to a rapturous Czech audience; the opera was destined to bomb in Vienna. Q Booking office open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 30 - 1,000Kč.Klementinum D-3, Praha 1, Křižovnická 2, tel. (+420) 221 66 32 60, www.klementinum.cz. The beautiful build-ing is home to some good classical music concerts in sublime grounds. Plus now, the Codex Gigas or Devil’s Bible is on show until Jan 6, 2008. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Performances start at 18:00 unless otherwise specified.Karlín Music Theatre Praha 8, Křižíkova 10, tel. (+420) 221 86 87 77, [email protected], www.hdk.cz. The theatre has a long history in the city; its first performance was the circus back in 1881. Fast forward to the floods of 2002 which saw the historic building practically destroyed. The theatre reopened in 2006 and has been hosting a string of popular musicals ever since. Q 230-700 Kč.

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ZDENĚK SÝKORA KAREL MALICHLINES AND WIRES A DIALOGUEOCTOBER 2, 2009 JANUARY 10, 2010

Museum Kampa – Jan and Meda Mladek FoundationU Sovových mlýnů 503/2, 118 00 Praha 1 www.museumkampa.cz

Museum Kampa is a unique cultural conglomeration for Prague. Their focus is Central European art showcased through both their permanent collection and temporary exhibits. The permanent collections include works by František Kupka and Otto Gutfreund, while currently on is Zdeněk Sýkora and Karel Malich - Lines and Wires: A Dialogue. The exhibit is based on the evolution of both artists over the past 20 years. For each painting by Sýkora there will be a “wired object” by Malich.

The museum is housed in a 10th century flour mill called Sova’s Mills that has served a wide range of interests before finally settling on being a museum in 2003. The mill, situated on the Vltava River near Charles Bridge, has always been a dominate aspect of the riverbank and architects carefully reconstructed the historic building. The museum is due in large part to the generous art donation from Jan and Meda Mládek, who donated their collection of more than 700 pieces to the City of Prague in order for it to be prop-erly displayed, cared for and seen. What makes Museum Kampa a cultural meeting point is their educational arm which offers lectures (often in English or with translation assistance available) and workshops for kids.

Museum Kampa, Praha 1, U Sovových mlýnů 2, 257 28 61 47, www.museumkampa.cz. Admission prices: Short-term exhibitions & permanent displays: 160 Kč; Sýkora - Malich exhibition: 80 Kč; Permanent exhibition of Central European art; Kupka and Gutfreund: 120 Kč. Open daily 10:00-18:00.

Museum Kampa

12 CULTURE & EVENTS


13CULTURE & EVENTS


Belgium as well as performances from Israel, Mali and New Zealand. For specific shows and more information, visit www.ctyridny.cz. Where? Five venues: Divadlo Archa, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 26, archatheatre.cz; La Fabrika, Praha 7, Komunardů 30, lafabrika.cz, Alfred ve dvoře theatre, Praha 7, Františka Křížka 36, alfredvedvore.cz, Former Federal Parliament building, Praha 1, Vinohradská 1, www.nm.cz and Hala Alta, Praha 7, U Výstaviště 23.

Guitar Across Styles18 October – 28 NovemberAn International Acoustic Guitar Festival – in its 12th year in Prague! Had no idea, did ya? Well, strummin’ fans; this one is definitely for you: all genres, played on all acoustic guitars; by guitarists from all over the world. There’s no one venue; concerts are scattered in venues around Prague and indeed the country. But for a different evening of musical enjoyment, this is definitely your best bet.Where? Concert halls across the city; check www.kytaranapriczanry.cz for more details or email: [email protected].

Prague Accordion Days29 October – 1 NovemberGuitars not your style? No worries; the international festival for harmonica and accordion ensembles and orchestras is playing this month too! Amateur ensembles, orchestras, accordion and harmonica friends from around the world are here to entertain. Where? Concert halls across the city; check www.accordion.cz for more details or email: [email protected].

The Duncan Centre Conservatory Praha 4, Branická 41, tel. (+420) 244 46 13 42, www.duncanct.cz. Con-temporary dance theatre and school.

ExhibitsJan Šerých: AnoThrough 8 NovemberThis young Prague conceptual artist puts on a one-man show at the Old Town Hall. Known for his blurring of geometric tendencies, his work is an abstract construction of symmetrical typographic shapes. This exhibit is being described as “mathematical sets made up of elements of emotion.”Where? City Gallery Prague, Old Town Hall, Praha 1, Staroměstské náměstí 1, 224 48 27 51, www.ghmp.cz. Closed Mondays.

Georg Baselitz Through 6 DecemberExperimental German painter Georg Baselitz’s work can be seen in the fabulous Rudolfinum space right now. His compositions are curious; and this exhibition displays a wide view of his work from 1960-2008. A changing perception, while attempting to hold on to reality is evident in this painter’s style. His creativity of style and technique breathes new life into the art of “painting.”Where? Galerie Rudulfinum, Praha 1, Alšovo nábřeží 12, 227 059 205, www.galerierudolfinum.cz. Closed Mondays

EntropaThrough 4 JanuaryThe art exhibit that sent shock waves through Brussels during the Czech Republic’s European Union presidency is now on display in Prague. Local bad boy David Černý is known for his controversial art displays, so it should have come as no surprise when he revealed this installation. Supposedly designed by 27 artists, each representing an EU country, and meant to challenge the stereotypes associated with each particular country; it was actually conceived by Černý and some of his friends. The problem? Some of the countries took offense as to how their state was portrayed, including Bulgaria, whose portion of the exhibit was covered during the installation’s stay in Brussels. Go see for yourself if it was worth all the fuss.Where? DOX Centre for Contemporary Art, Praha 7, Poupětova 1, 774 14 54 34, www.doxprague.org. Closed Tuesdays.


Bohemia Ticket International F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 16, tel. 224 21 50 31, www.ticketsbti.cz. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Also at (E-3) Praha 1, Malé nám. ATicket Art I-4, Praha 1, Politických vězňů 9, tel. 222 89 75 52, www.ticket-art.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.Ticketpro E-3, Praha 1, Rytířská 12, tel. 296 32 99 99, www.ticketpro.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. ATicketstream I-6, Praha 2, Koubkova 8, tel. 224 26 30 49, www.ticketstream.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A

Tickets

In August, the National Museum opened a new building; right next door to their current digs at the top of Václavské náměstí. What was originally built to house the Federal Parliament in 1966 became the home of Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty in 1993. Barricades and security guards were a constant presence; but now that RFE/RL has moved to new digs in Prague 10, the space is opened up and free (mainly to traffic.) It’s quite a contrast to its 19th century sister building, the massive icon of Prague. You can see this important bit of Czech history and architecture thanks to guided tours currently running all day, every day. They are in Czech but most of the guides should speak English, and an English audio guide is available as well (included in the admission price.) The museum shop and café is partially furnished with original Parliament furniture, so sit back with a cuppa and state a new law. Currently, the building is nameless; it’s being referred to either as the former Federal Parliament building or the new National Museum building. However, excitement is in the air, as the naming of the new building was left up to public suggestions. Museum officials said they had received more than 600 proposals, but haven’t chosen one yet. Supposedly, the “finalists” will also be chosen by the public and the new moniker is set to be revealed in November.Where? Vinohradská 1, Praha 1, 224 497 430, www.nm.czGuided Tours: The museum is open daily from 10:00-18:00. On Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, tours are held every 30 minutes; Monday-Friday tours are every hour. You can reserve a spot for an 11:00 or 15:00 tour only, by phoning or emailing at least three days in advance: 224 49 74 30, [email protected]. Cost is 80 Kč.

New National Museum BuildingHappeningsStrings of Autumn Music FestivalUntil 20 November

Jazz & classics; traditional & experimental; you’ll find it all at this diverse festival. Organisers strive to bring together seemingly incompatible musical styles, and it always works out well. The festival began as a series of programmes back in 1996 and has since grown to be a major festival on the city’s cultural calendar. Strings of Autumn often commissions new work and with their three themes being “Inspiration,” “Crossover” and “Luminaries” all attendees are sure to discover something rousing this season. Tickets can be bought online at the festival’s website, www.strunypodzimu.cz, or in person at the National Theatre’s ticket office, Praha 1, Ostrovní 1, 224 901 247. Book in advance; they sell out quickly. Venues: Czech Museum of Music, Praha 1, Karmelitská 2; Rudol finum, Praha 1, Alšovo nábřeží 12; Prague Crossroads, Praha 1, Liliová entrance is from Zlatá street; Estates Theatre, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 1; La Fabrika, Praha 7, Komunardů 30, Trade Fair Palace, Cinema ARTminus, Praha 7, Dukelských hrdinů 47. For more information visit www.strunypodzimu.cz.

8 October: Echoes of Home; Czech Museum of Music, 19:3015 October: Ondřej Pivec; La Fabrika, 19:3021 October: Gil Shaham; Prague Crossroads; 19:3031 October: Cassandra Wilson; Rudolfinum; 19:304 November: Enoch Arden performed by Michael York & Libor Nováček; Rudolfinum; 19:3010 November: 415 versus 422; Rudolfinum; 19:3015 November: Astillero Tango; Estates Theatre; 19:3020 November: Ludovico Einaudi; Rudolfinum; 19:30

Four Days in Motion International Theatre Festival9-16 OctoberNow in its 14th year, Four Days in Motion presents contemporary and innovative theatre projects with theatre troupes from around the world. Known not only for their theatre work but also the unique locales where they choose to show that work (think former sewage plant one year, factory another year); this year they’ve added the former Parliament Building to the list. Four Days in Motion is an anything goes avant-garde mess of a week. We love it! This year you can experience a pop opera from

Puppet theatrePrague is famous for puppets, and these shows make a great night out as language is not usually a barrier.

Divadlo Minor I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 6, tel. (+420) 222 23 17 02, www.minor.cz. Tickets 30-80Kč. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.Říše loutek D-2, Praha 1, Žatecká 1, tel. (+420) 222 32 45 65, www.riseloutek.cz.National Marionette Theatre D-2, Praha 1, Žatecká 1, tel. (+420) 224 81 93 22, www.mozart.cz.

TheatreDivadlo Alfred ve dvoře I-1, Praha 7, Fr. Křížka 36, tel. (+420) 233 37 69 97, www.alfredvedvore.cz. A small theatre specialising in moving, visual and experimental theatre and dance, with several performances that can be enjoyed by non-Czech speakers. Ticket office and bar opens an hour before each performance.Q All performances are at 20:00 unless specified otherwise. Advance bookings at Praha 1, Celetná 17; BIO OKO Bar, Praha 7, Fr. Křížka 15 & Praha 2, Polí pět, Dittrichova 13. Tickets 150/90Kč.Divadlo Archa J-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 26, tel. (+420) 221 71 61 11, fax (+420) 221 716 666, www.archa-theatre.cz. Affectionately known as the “al ternative National Theatre,” Archa has done wonders for Prague’s cultural scene. It’s not necessarily an “English” theatre, however their eclectic line-up often transcends language barriers. Check their website - you never know what ad-ditional items of interest, including concerts, they’ll have on tap. All shows at 20:00 unless otherwise listed Q Performances start at 20:00 unless stated otherwise. PTAEGKWDivadlo Hybernia F-3, Praha 1, nám. Republiky 4, tel. (+420) 221 41 94 12, www.divadlo-broadway.cz. Dat-ing back to the reign of Charles IV, this building was recently refurbished and now provides a home to Golem, a musical of the Jewish legend, which plays daily with English subtitles. NB Rows 1-6 & 32-33 are not good for viewing the subtitles. Q Tickets 599 - 799Kč. Box office open 10:00 - 02:00. Per-formances at 19:00. 15:00 & 19:00 Sat & 15:00 Sun. PADivadlo na Prádle B-4, Praha 1, Besední 3, tel. (+420) 257 32 04 21, www.napradle.cz.. Small theatre space with rather good cafe that hosts the Prague Fringe and others.Divadlo Ponec Praha 3, Husitská 24, tel. (+420) 222 72 15 31, www.divadloponec.cz.Laterna Magika C-4, Praha 1, Národní 4, tel. (+420) 222 22 20 41, www.laterna.cz. Laterna Magika developed a new way of combining theatre, dance, music and film for the 1958 Brussels Expo, and was doing multi-media perfor-mances before the word even existed. All productions are visually orientated with no spoken Czech - ideal for foreigners. Q Performances start at 20:00. Tickets 735Kč.National Theatre C-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 2, tel. (+420) 224 90 16 68, www.narodni-divadlo.cz. Prague’s most beautiful riverside building hosts a wealth of perfor-mances, mostly concerts and opera. Find the booking office in the modernist glass building next door. Q Booking office open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:30, 15:00 - 18:30.Švandovo divadlo Praha 5, Štefánikova 57, tel. (+420) 234 65 11 11, www.svandovodivadlo.cz. Local and international plays, both classic and contemporary; always something interesting going on at Švandovo. They offer English subtitles on screens above the stage, so your best bet are seats in the balcony. We’ve listed the plays going on in February, but visit their website for other dramatic and occasionally musical interests. All shows at 19:00 unless otherwise listed.

14 CULTURE & EVENTS


15


VELVET REVOLUTION



Jerry Lee Lewis9 November Shake, rattle and roll, people! Mr. Jerry Lee Lewis will be thumpin’ the keys in Prague tonight. Tickets can be purchased through Ticketportal, www.ticketportal.cz. Show starts at 19:00.Where? Tesla Arena, Praha 7, Za Elektrárnou 419, www.tesla-arena.cz

Tom Jones 10 November

Wow – if you are in town this week how much more lucky could you be? Back to back shows of Jerry Lee Lewis and Tom Jones! Pardon us while we take a deep breath and get prepared to toss our undies. Show starts at 20:00; tickets can be purchased via email at [email protected]? O2 Arena, Praha 9, Ocelářská Street No. 460/2, www.o2arena.cz

Švandovo divadlo, Praha 5, Štefánikova 57, www.svandovodivadlo.cz All listed shows are in Czech with English subtitles. The subtitles are printed on a screen above the stage so sit in the balcony for the best view. Showtime is 19:00. 1, 31 October: Much Ado About Nothing2, 29 October: Elton John’s Glasses5, 7, 17, October: The Boss of it All9, 27 October: Casanova in the Spa10, 21 October: A Month in the Country12 October: The Beggar’s Opera14 October: The School for Wives19 October: Masquerade23 October: The Mandrake

Karlín Music TheatrePraha 8, Křižíkova 10, 221 86 86 66, www.hdk.czMusicals with English subtitles. Carmen shows at 19:00; Polish Blood at 15:00.1, 2, 37, 8, 9, 10, 14, 15, 16, 17, 21, 22, 23, 24, 29, 30, 31 October: Carmen4, 11, 18, 25 October: Polish Blood1, 8, 15, 22, 29 November: Polish Blood4, 5, 6, 7, 11, 12, 13, 14, 18, 19, 20, 21, 25, 26, 27, 28 November: Carmen

English Theatres

FootballWell, it is off to a slow start for our first league Prague teams. Slavia is doing the best at third, while Sparta is languishing down in seventh. Newly promoted Bohemians 1905? Well, let’s just say – the season is young! Winter break begins in December, so that’s a good two months to get into form. Tickets can usually be bought day of; walk up, walk in and enjoy!

Sparta AXA Aréna, Praha 7, Milady Horákové 98, www.sparta.cz17 October: vs. SK Dynamo Č. Budějovice, 18:0031 October: vs. FC Baník Ostrava, 18:0014 November: vs. FC Slovan Liberec, 18:00

Bohemians 1905 Ďolíček stadión, Praha 10, Vršovická 31, www.fc-bohemians.cz18 October: vs. FC Slovácko, 17:001 November: vs. Slovan Liberec, 17:008 November: vs. Příbram, 17:0022 November: vs. Sparta Praha, 17:00

FK Viktoria Žižkov Stadión Viktorky, Praha 3, Seifertova, www.fkvz.cz4 October: vs. FC Graffin Vlašim, 10:1525 October: vs. FK Baník Sokolov, 10:158 November: vs. Slezský FC Opava, 10:15

Slávia Stadión Eden, Praha 10, Vladivostocká 10, www.slavia.cz4 October: vs. Sparta Praha, 17:0025 October: vs. SK Sigma Olomouc, 17:008 November: vs. FC Viktoria Plzen, 17:0022 November: vs. FC Brno, 17:00

Ice HockeySparta Tesla Arena, Praha 7, Za Elektrárnou 419, www.hcsparta.cz2 October: vs. Kladno, 18:009 October: vs. Vítkovice, 18:0016 October: vs. Kometa Brno, 18:0018 October: vs. Slavia, 18:1025 October: vs. Zlín, 17:001 November: vs. Třinec, 17:0013 November: vs. Litvínov, 18:0017 November: vs. Plzeň, 18:0020 November: vs. Č. Budějovice, 18:00

Slavia O2 Arena, Praha 9, Ocelářská 2, www.hc-slavia.cz4 October: vs. Zlín, 17:006 October: vs. Mladá Boleslav, 18:1511 October: vs. Karlovy Vary, 17:0020 October: vs. Č. Budějovice, 18:1523 October: vs. Kladno, 18:151 November: vs. Vítkovice, 17:0022 November: vs. Mladá Boleslav, 17:0024 November: vs. Třinec, 18:15

Sports Th i s N o v e m b e r m a r k s the 20th ann i versar y o f C ze ch os l ovak ia’s Ve l ve t Revolution. Following the lead of their Eastern European n e i g h b o u r s , c i t i z e n s peacefully protested against the Communist regime, and successfully removed them from power.

The easing up of Communist policies actually came from the then-Soviet Union in the late ‘80s. Mikhail Gorbachev was president, and he was introducing reforms in his own country. Unfortunately for the Czechoslovakians, Gustav Husák, who came to power following the Prague Spring uprising in 1968, continued to push harsh Communist propaganda. By 1988, there were regular protests demanding change.

What’s come to be known as the Velvet Revolution occurred over a six week period from November 17 to December 29, 1989. November 17 was already an important date in Czechoslovak history. Fifty years ago, students held a demonstration protesting the Nazi regime. Students again took to the streets, this time in protest of a different oppressive government. The protest began as a legal rally, but soon turned into a demonstration demanding democratic reforms. Students marching from the Czech National Cemetery in Vyšehrad to Václavské náměstí were stopped by riot police at Národní třída. In the ensuing stand-off, students offered flowers instead of resistance to the officers, but the police responded with beatings. Nearly 170 students were injured that day. At the time, one student was reportedly beaten to death, a rumour which proved to be false. That “death” however served to mobilize support for the students and their demands amongst the general public. In another blow to the government’s control, a number of worker’s unions also took up the students’ cause.

Mass demonstrations were held in Prague, Bratislava and others cities around the country from November 18 – 27, when a general strike was called. In theatres, instead of performances, people gathered for public discussions. It was one of these discussions on November 19, at Prague’s Činoherní Klub that the Civic Forum was founded. It was established as the “official spokesgroup for the segment of the Czechoslovak public which is ever more critical of the policy of the present Czechoslovak leadership.” The Civic Forum was led by Václav Havel, later to become the country’s first democratically elected president.

The group’s first demands were the resignation of the Communist government, release of prisoners of conscience and an investigation into the police action that had occurred on November 17. In the Slovak part of the country a similar action was taking place – the founding of the Public Against Violence group. Both groups immediately saw citizens joining en masse; and not just students. Factory workers, university staff and employees of a variety of other institutions were getting involved in the cause. It took about two weeks for the country’s media to begin broadcasting reports of what was really going on in Prague, but in the meantime, students began travelling to smaller cities and towns to rally support.

Despite the fact that their neighbouring Communist countries had been seeing unrest and protests for some time, the Czechoslovak government was totally unprepared for the up swell of public support for the students’ cause. As mass demonstrations continued and more and more people supported the general strikes that were being called, an extraordinary session of the Czechoslovak Communist Party was called. The Presidium resigned, and a relatively unknown

member, Karel Urbánek was elected the new Communist Party leader. This didn’t sit well with the general public who didn’t see the change as true reform but merely a placation.

November 25 and 26 saw a massive demonstration of 750,000 people at Letná Park in Prague followed by the general strike on November 27. These two acts were devastating to the Communist regime. Prime Minister Ladislav Adamec held talks with Václav Havel who submitted a list of Civic Forum demands. At their second meeting, Adamec agreed to form a new coalition government. In addition the Constitution was to be amended through the deleting of three articles: guarantee of a leading role in political life for the Czechoslovak Communist Party and for the National Front, and the directive of a Marxist-Leninist education. These changes were unanimously approved by the Communist parliament on November 29.

These initial allowances led to an increase in demands by the people. A new government was formed by Marian Čalfa which included only nine members of the Czechoslovak Communist Party, several of whom had cooperated with the Civic Forum. The rest of the government was made up of two members from the Czechoslovak Socialist Party; two from the Czechoslovak People’s Party and seven ministers with no previous party affiliation, all of whom were either members of the Civic Forum or Public Against Violence. President Husák named this new government on December 10 and later that day went on television to announce his resignation.

Political events moved swiftly; the parliament elected Václav Havel president on December 11 and he was elected by the people in July 1990.

Velvet Revolution Anniversary Events20 Years Without the Curtain17th NovemberThis free event open to the public will commemorate the 1989 student march from Albertov to Národní třída. The programme includes an afternoon procession, memorial service and a concert by young Czech artists.

That Time in the East From 28 October Wondering how folks lived during Communism? This exhibit aims to show the lives of ordinary people in Czechoslovakia from 1948 - 1989. Where? Stone Bell House, Praha 1, Staroměstské náměstí 13, 224 82 75 26, www.ghmp.cz. Closed Mondays.

Be Free From 17 NovemberAn exhibition commemorating November 17, the 20th anniversary of the fall of the iron curtain as well as events from the 1950s to 1990s. Where? National Museum, Praha 1, Václavské náměstí 68, 224 49 71 11, www.nm.cz

After Velvet From November 17A new permanent exhibition at the Golden Ring House will attempt to reflect on social, cultural and economic changes that have taken place in the Czech Republic since 1989. Several artistic generations (both artists working before 1989, as well as young artists that entered the scene post-revolution) will display their views on this theme.Where? Golden Ring House, Praha 1, Týnská street 6, 224 82 70 22, www.ghmp.cz. Closed Mondays

Interested in visiting some of the important Velvet Revolution sites? Read our Pocket Watch on Page 31.

When – if not now?Who – if not us?

16 WHERE TO STAY


17WHERE TO STAY


Grand Hotel Bohemia F-3, Praha 1, Králodvorská 4, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 234 60 81 11, fax (+420) 222 32 95 45, [email protected], www.grandhotelbohemia.cz. An Austrian-run hotel with attractive Art Nouveau rooms and staff who are renowned for their efficiency. The hotel has a café and laundry service. Q78 rooms (10 singles €175 - 240, 65 doubles €210 - 280, 3 junior suites €310 - 540). PHARULGK hhhhh

Grand Hotel Praha E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 22, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 221 63 25 56, fax (+420) 221 63 25 58, [email protected], www.grandhotelpraha.cz. Run by the Apostolic Residence crew, the neighbouring Grand Hotel is an equally sumptious place to stay, with suitably grand views over Old Town Square and classically furnished rooms. Q20 rooms (1 single €128 - 213, 18 doubles €153 - 320, 1 apartment €356 - 463). PAKD hhhh

Hilton Prague J-2, Praha 8, Pobřežní 1, MFlorenc, tel. (+420) 224 84 11 11, fax (+420) 224 84 23 78, [email protected], www.prague.hilton.com. Easily recognisable as the glass box on the Vltava, Hilton Prague has all the facilities expected in this international brand. 24 hour bars, restaurants and services and a casino. Q788 rooms (20 singles €150 - 280, 646 doubles €150 - 280, 91 triples €166 - 296, 19 suites €308 - 438, 3 apartments €686 - 816, 8 junior suites €266 - 396, 1 presidential suite €956 - 1089). ACDFGHKLOPRTU hhhhh

Hilton Prague Old Town I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 7, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 221 822 100, fax (+420) 221 822 200, www.hilton.com. The city’s second, smaller Hilton boasts a classy interior in an enviable location. All the high-class Hilton amenities are available in a newer and lovely setting. Zinc, their restaurant and cocktail bar are worth a visit as well. Q310 rooms (299 doubles €140 - 250, 10 suites €399 - 459, 1 apartment €950). PTJHARUFLGKDC hhhhh

InterContinental Praha E-1, Praha 1, Nám. Curieových 43/5, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 296 63 11 11, fax (+420) 224 81 12 16, [email protected], www.intercon-tinental.com/prague. The friendliest front desk and most helpful concierge in all of Prague might be your first contact with this big, international hotel that has been looking after high flyers since before the fall of communism. All the facilities you would expect, including a superb fitness centre. Q372 rooms (155 singles €149 - 270, 128 doubles €149 - 290, 24 suites €349 - 490, 2 apartments €1830 - 4200, 63 junior suites €199 - 340). PHARUFLGBKDC hhhhh

Kempinski Hybernská Prague J-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 12, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+420) 226 22 61 11, fax (+420) 226 22 61 23, [email protected], www.kempinski-prague.com. Luxury squared at the new Kempinski hotel. The property dates back to the 15th century and has been carefully reconstructed to offer 75 rooms and suites. Expect the usual: air conditioning, telephone, TV, radio, minibar, hairdryer, bath robe, safe, and high-speed internet wifi connection, non-smoking rooms. Suites feature separate bedroom and living areas, fitted kitchenette, guest WC and walk-in closets. Big bonus: the hotel has its own private garden and atrium. Q75 rooms (suites €375, Superior €249 -, Grand Deluxe €295 - ). PJHAUFGK hhhhh

Prague Marriott I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 8, MNám. Repub-liky, tel. (+420) 222 88 88 88, fax (+420) 222 88 88 89, [email protected], www.marriottprague.com. Bigger really is better; plus you’ve got an excellent location to boot. Every amenity imaginable and size, lots of it. Higher priced suites have two levels. The rooms have recently been renovated for an extra pop of luxury and comfort. If you are shelling out for a suite or better, then breakfast in the Executive Lounge is included. Q293 rooms (258 doubles €149 - 315, 33 suites €359 - 495). PTHARUFLGKDC hhhhh

President H-2, Praha 1, nám. Curieových 100, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 234 61 41 11, fax (+420) 234 61 41 10, [email protected], www.ho-telpresident.cz. A range of top-class suites, an executive floor, a casino and a fitness room and spa, have earned the President five star status (though even their large standard rooms have a sofa). Photographs throughout the hotel complement the elegant décor of pale yellows and blue glass. All staff seem genuinely pleased to be here and smile broadly. Q130 rooms (7 singles €165 - 225, 65 doubles €145 - 225, 22 triples €145 - 225, 32 junior suites €195 - 255, 3 senior suites €295 - 355, 1 presidential suite €800 - 1100). Executive floor add €50 on all types of rooms. POTHARUFLKD hhhhh

Prague‘s Premium Summer Venue

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

O Casino H Conference facilities

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant M Nearest metro station

D Sauna C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi

Symbol keyPrague has a long tradition of hospitality having hosted generations of travellers, thinkers and invading armies. However, to the modern guest this may not be immediately apparent as the tradition of customer service is somewhat shorter. Generally, the further you travel into residential Prague, the cheaper the rooms become (and the quirkier the environment). Late night revellers staggering home to musical accompaniment can make a stay in the Old Town less than peaceful, so check out your hotel's location before signing up. Alternatively, find a hotel when you get here, and always ask for a discount. Chances are you’ll get one.

Cream of the crop Corinthia Towers Praha 4, Kongresová 1, MVyšehrad, tel. (+420) 261 19 11 11, fax (+420) 261 21 16 73, [email protected], www.corinthia.cz. All the convenience you would demand from a 24-floor hotel in a capital city. In addition to a top-class oriental and Italian restaurant, facilities include a casino, fitness centre and ten-pin bowling. Q544 rooms (120 singles €260 - 300, 388 doubles €260 - 300, triples €350 - 390, 20 suites €410 - 1570, 1 presidential suite €1570, 16 junior suites €410). ACDFGHKLPRTU hhhhh

Four Seasons D-2, Praha 1, Veleslavínova 2a, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 221 42 70 00, fax (+420) 221 42 60 00, [email protected], www.fourseasons.com/prague. Just a step from Charles Bridge, the Four Seasons affords its guests with as much class and comfort as is humanly possible. Over a year was spent renovating the four buildings that provide a roof over your head, which range from 500-year-old elegance to contemporary design. Q161 rooms (singles €275 - 550, 141 doubles €295 - 570, 20 apartments €695 - 3900). PTHARUFLGBKD hhhhh

18 WHERE TO STAY


19WHERE TO STAY


Andel’s Praha 5, Stroupežnického 21, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 296 88 96 88, fax (+420) 296 88 99 99, [email protected], www.andelshotel.com. Bang in the centre of the upmarket development west of the river, and just a few tramstops from the old town, the glittering facilities at Andel’s will blind you with their high-technicity. Top-notch accommodation with designer lines. Q231 rooms (singles €235 - 300, 223 doubles €255 - 325, 8 suites €320 - 380). ADFGHKLPRTU hhhh

Antik City H-5, Praha 2, Malá Štěpánská 13, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 91 91 00, fax (+420) 224 91 90 60, [email protected], www.antikcity.cz. A newly reconstructed boutique hotel in a quiet part of Nové Město. The rooms are classically designed and include sat TV, mini-bar, safe and free internet connection. Their lovely café is a nice place to start or end your day. Q30 rooms (30 doubles €165). PK hhhh

Aquapalace Hotel Prague - Čestlice, Pražská, tel. (+420) 225 10 88 88, fax (+420) 225 10 89 99, [email protected], www.aquapalacehotel.cz. Located on the outskirts of Prague, this new hotel’s draw is its direct access to Central Europe’s largest waterpark. Conference facilities, a wellness centre, nearby shopping opportunities and of course all the mod cons one could want mean even if your skin starts to prune, you’ll have somewhere to go besides the water. Q231 rooms (183 doubles €95, 3 suites €145, 30 Family Rooms €135, 3 Barrier Free Rooms). TAFLKDC hhhh

Astoria F-2, Praha 1, Rybná 10, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 221 77 57 11, fax (+420) 221 77 57 12, [email protected], www.hotelastoria.cz. Astoria occupies a modern building on some prime real estate in Prague Old Town. Rooms are on the small side, but comfortable with bright blue interiors, modern wood furnishings and great views. Top-floor VIP rooms offer more amenities and enor-mous balconies. Q74 rooms (singles €99 - 220, 74 doubles €99 - 240). AGHKLPRTU hhhh

Barceló F-3, Praha 1, Celetná 29, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. 222 33 71 11, fax 241 44 10 23, [email protected], www.barcelo.com. It’s so light and bright! With a courtyard in its centre; Barceló tosses away the typical dark lobby and hallways and lets the sun shine in. The lobby is covered in a skylight and the walk to your room will have an view to outside. A mix of rooms and suites (28 rooms; 34 suites) with all the mod-cons: mini-bar, TV, DVD player, air-conditioning, etc. An excellent restaurant as well. Q62 rooms (28 doubles €64, 34 suites €100). PJAK hhhh

Barceló Praha Praha 4, Na Strži 32, MPankrác, tel. (+420) 296 77 21 11, fax (+420) 241 44 10 23, [email protected], www.barcelo.com. An excellent Spanish-owned hotel, this place has extremely friendly staff and small yet comfy rooms with minibar and telephone plus free parking in the garage. Q213 rooms (singles €130 - 150, 198 doubles €150 - 170, 15 suites €170 - 240). PHAULK hhhh

Belvedere I-1, Praha 7, Milady Horákové 19, MVl-tavská, tel. (+420) 220 10 61 11, fax (+420) 233 37 44 71, [email protected], www.hotelbelvedere.cz. Situated in a lovely area across the Vltava, not far from the castle, the Belvedere offers wonderful accommodation and a high level of service. The spacious three-star standard rooms come with as many mod cons as you could ever need, and the four-star executive floor has even more on offer. Q152 rooms (6 singles €53 - 88, 113 doubles €71 - 118, 32 triples €89 - 148, 1 quad €89 - 148). Singles from 1200CZK; Doubles from 1550CZK; Triples from 1950CZK, includes buffet breakfast, city tax and VAT. HAULGK hhhh

Upmarket Absolutum Praha 7, Jablonského 4, MHolešovice, tel. (+420) 222 54 14 06, [email protected], www.absolutumhotel.cz. The absolute best place to stay in Praha 7. Design hotel Absolutum is an upscale, clean and shiny place with all the conveniences of home; including internet connection and parking. The restaurant is also getting rave reviews so if you are looking for chic accommodations in a cool ‘hood, absolutely check in. Q Doubles from €79. PAUFK

Ametyst J-6, Praha 2, Jana Masaryka 11, MNám. Míru, tel. (+420) 222 92 19 21, fax (+420) 222 92 19 99, [email protected], www.hotelametyst.cz. Nicknamed The Gallery, it has over 450 paintings by Russian and Romanian artists on display, and a reputa-tion as one of the more efficient hotels in Prague. Tucked away in a quiet section of Vinohrady but close to food and transport hubs and now with Wi-Fi throughout, this is a good low-key option. Q84 rooms (8 singles €85 - 155, 69 doubles €105 - 215, 7 triples €130 - 265). PHAULGKDW hhhh

Élite H-5, Praha 1, Ostrovní 32, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 224 93 22 50, fax (+420) 224 93 07 87, [email protected], www.hotelelite.cz. With a history that dates back to the 14th century, the Élite, a member of the Small Charming group, is another gem. Totally refurbished in 2000, rooms are suitably grand, spacious and historic, with wonder-ful high ceilings, and lovely antique furniture. Q79 rooms (10 singles €112 - 176, 67 doubles €125 - 199, 1 triple €169 - 267, 1 junior suite €147 - 216). PARULGBK hhhh

Radisson SAS Alcron I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 40, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 222 82 00 00, fax (+420) 222 82 01 00, [email protected], www.prague.radissonsas.com. Built in 1930 and restored to its former glory in 1999, this place has picked up a heap of design awards. Guests can expect rooms that have the warmth and grace of state rooms on a luxury liner. The higher the floor, the more stunning your view of Prague. Extras include a 24-hour limousine service. Prices do not include VAT. Q211 rooms (12 singles €169 - 229, 180 doubles €169 - 229, 5 suites €309 - 359, 1 apartment €900 - 1300, 13 junior suites €269 - 309). PTHARUFLG�BKD hhhhh

Royal Palace B2, Praha 1, Letenská 11, MMalostran-ská, tel. (+420) 224 81 12 81, fax (+420) 224 81 12 87, [email protected], www.hotelroyalpalace.cz. The first 5-star Best Western hotel in Europe; the Royal Palace (neighbor to Prague Castle) is fit for royalty. Boutique amenities and personal touches abound. Only 36 rooms means you’ll get the attention you need; and the renovated 19th century building is filled with a charm all its own. Q Single: €140; Double: €150. PJAUK

Sheraton Prague Charles Square Hotel H-5, Prague 2, Žitná 8, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. (+420) 225 99 99 99, fax (+420) 225 99 99 09, www.sheraton.com. The Sheraton near Karlovo náměstí offers comfy beds, a good in between Old and New Town location plus in room high speed internet connection and a variety of dining options. Modern and sleek, the first Sheraton in Prague has 160 rooms con-sisting of 122 deluxe rooms plus 38 suites. It’s a well-located smart choice. Q Deluxe rooms: €150-250; Suites: €250-650. PJHA6UFKW hhhhh

20 WHERE TO STAY


21WHERE TO STAY


Lanka. Luxurious accommodation, supremely personable and delightfully quiet. Q138 rooms (2 singles €150 - 240, 126 doubles €170 - 260, 3 suites €320 - 400, 7 junior suites €225 - 350). Breakfast and VAT not included in the price. PTHARUFLGBKX hhhh

Elysee F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 43, MMůstek, tel. 221 45 51 11, fax 224 22 57 73, [email protected], www.hotelelysee.cz. Right in the centre of the city, with all of Prague’s main attractions just a few minutes walk away. All rooms are well-appointed, spacious and have luxurious bathrooms. Six new apartments have been added to Elysee’s charm, all fully equipped for 2-6 people. (Prices for apartments do not include breakfast). Q76 rooms (8 singles €73 - 133, 50 doubles €96 - 180, 12 triples €120 - 223, 6 apartments €111 - 246). PAULG hhhh

Holiday Inn Praha 4, Na Pankráci 15/1684, MVyšehrad, tel. (+420) 296 89 50 00, fax (+420) 296 89 50 10, [email protected], www.holidayinn.cz. The Holiday Inn brand name is known for its quality services and standards across the globe, and the Prague version is no exception. Good rooms, amentities and location at reasonable prices. Q251 rooms (243 doubles €220 - 240, 8 suites €270). PHARULGBK hhhh

Hotel Černý slon F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 1, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 32 15 21, fax 222 31 03 51, [email protected], www.hotelcernyslon.cz. This elegant hotel rolls out the red carpet for all of its guests. Rooms, decorated with antique furniture, are spacious and some include an amazing view of the surrounding medieval centre. The wine cellar is also worth a peek. Q16 rooms (2 singles €73 - 113, 10 doubles €117 - 190, 4 triples €153 - 223). PARLK hhhh

Best Western Premier Hotel Majestic Plaza I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 33, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 221 48 61 00, fax (+420) 221 48 64 86, [email protected], www.hotel-majestic.cz. Lavishly renovated buildings around a copper clad courtyard. One is Biedermeier style and sports slightly cramped but fully mod conned rooms on five floors. The other is superb art deco and hosts seven floors of rooms with the top floors wielding the terraces and views. Central and stylish, Majestic is the word. Q185 rooms (175 doubles €125 - 260, 5 triples €165 - 310, 5 apartments €195 - 330). PHAR6ULGKDW hhhh

BW Meteor Plaza I-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 6, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 19 25 59, fax (+420) 224 22 06 81, [email protected], www.hotel-meteor.cz. Within shouting distance of the Powder Tower, this Best Western hotel is full of charm, but then again, there has been an inn here since 1307. In the 18th century, the man later to become Emperor Josef II wouldn’t lay his head down anywhere else. Q88 rooms (15 singles €109 - 173, 56 doubles €125 - 190, 10 triples €166 - 239, 6 suites €141 - 217). ADFGHKLPR hhhh

Carlton Praha 3, Táboritská 18, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. 222 71 11 77, fax 222 71 11 99, [email protected], www.hotelcarlton.cz. Dark wood and deep green soft furnishings give a sophisticated air to the rooms. Bathrooms are luxurious, while the top floor rooms have vaulted, slanted ceilings and suites often go for the same price as a double. A little way out of town, but the Carlton has good tram links. Q49 rooms (3 singles €73 - 133, 40 doubles €97 - 180, 6 triples €120 - 223). PHARULGK hhhh

Corinthia Panorama Praha 4, Milevská 7, MPankrác, tel. (+420) 261 16 11 11/(+420) 261 16 60 61, fax (+420) 261 16 41 41, [email protected], www.corinthia.cz. The second, albeit less exclusive Corinthia hotel in Prague still has excellent services and facilities in rooms and restaurants. The pool provides panoramic views of the city as one swims or lounges. Q450 rooms (118 singles €205 - 225, 321 doubles €205 - 225, triples €275 - 295, 1 presidential suite €1340, 10 junior suites €410). PTHARUFLGBKDC hhhh

Courtyard Marriott Flora Praha 3, Lucemburská 46, MFlora, tel. (+420) 236 08 80 88, fax (+420) 236 08 80 89, www.marriott.com. Billed as hotels designed by business travellers, every room has a dataport and TV internet (both charged for standard rooms) and are spacious with desk, ergonomic chair and a sofa(bed). King size and very comfortable beds dominate rooms, which have ice buckets, fridge for you to fill, hairdryer, coffee/tea facilities plus iron in every room and robe and slippers in superior rooms make the Courtyard a place to stay. 24hr shop in the lobby plus a cosy bar. Q161 rooms (81 singles €105 - 135, 64 doubles €135 - 175, 13 triples €140 - 200, 1 suite €195 - 245). Breakfast €9-16. PHAR6UIFLGKW hhhh

Crowne Plaza Prague Castle Praha 1, Strahovská 128, tel. (+420) 226 08 00 00, fax (+420) 226 08 02 00, [email protected], www.crowneplaza.com. A beautifully restored 16th century building with modern annexe tucked behind Strahov Monastery holds this striking new hotel from InterContinental with glass domed atrium/library and effective yet simple designs in lighting and furni-ture. Two wings, one old, one new, hold spacious rooms with king, queen or twin beds, desk, plasma TV, smellies from The White Company and some have a small terrace. The usual services join the country’s only Ayurvedic spa and clinic, with doctor, therapists and equipment all imported from Sri

Jalta Hotel F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 45, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 222 82 21 11, fax (+420) 222 82 28 33, [email protected], www.jalta.cz. The reception area, and especially the bathrooms, perpetuate a classy, retro feel. The classic lines of the surroundings are enhanced by the rich materials and colours. Double and deluxe rooms, plus five suites. Q94 rooms (89 doubles €160 - 240, 5 suites €220 - 290). PTHARULGBK hhhh

Mövenpick Praha 5, Mozartova 261/1, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 257 15 11 11, fax (+420) 257 15 31 31, [email protected], www.movenpick-prague.com. The hotel’s rooms are spacious and are decorated in a modern style. Take the funicular up the hill to the restaurant and function rooms with outstanding views of the city. Q442 rooms (4 singles €240, 410 doubles €280, 7 suites €445, 6 apartments €, 15 junior suites). PTHARUFLGBKD hhhh

Sovereign I-4, Politických vězňů 16, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 242 45 45 45/(+420) 242 45 45 65, fax (+420) 242 45 45 11, [email protected], www.hotel-sovereign.cz. Elegant yet homey with an excellent city-centre location, this new four-star superior hotel should be popular. Fifty spacious rooms and suites are all individually decorated in a warm comforting style. The location is on the nicer, quieter side of Wenceslas Square and comes complete with all the usuals: in-room air conditioning, free Wi-Fi, satellite TV, mini-bar and safe. Q PJAFKW hhhh

Hotel Anna

Budečská 17, Praha 2tel. +420 222 513 111

www.hotelanna.cz

Hotel Atlantic

Na Poříčí 9, Praha 1tel. +420 224 811 084www.hotel-atlantic.cz

Best Western Hotel Meteor Plaza

Hybernská 6, Praha 1tel. +420 224 192 111www.hotel-meteor.cz

Sovereign Hotel

Politických Vězňů 16, Praha 1tel. +420 242 454 545

www.hotel-sovereign.cz

Lo cation Character Hospitalit y Catering Calm Charm

Hotel Élite

Ostrovní 32, Praha 1tel. +420 224 932 250

www.hotelelite.cz

Hotel Claris

Slezská 26, Praha 2tel. +420 242 446 111www.hotel-claris.cz

Best Western Hotel Páv

Křemencova 13, Praha 1tel. +420 221 502 111

www.hotel-pav.cz

PRAGUECLASSIC CHARM

AND MODERN HOSPITALITY

AT OUR HOTELS

AND LUXURY APARTMENTS

BOOKING ONLINE

www.europehotels.cz

e-mail:[email protected]

Tel: +420 224 248 752

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22 WHERE TO STAY


23WHERE TO STAY


Yasmin F-4, Praha 1, Politických vězňů 12, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 234 10 01 00, fax (+420) 234 10 01 01, [email protected], www.hotel-yasmin.cz. This fabu-lous designer hotel is all very tactile, with sleek furniture, jasmine flowers etched along floors and glass dividers, silver globes hanging from the ceiling and odd furry and smooth triffid-like objects towering over you. A subtle green dominates the room colour, each has a huge mirror so you can look as good as it does, flat screen TVs, all mod cons and rooms in the newer annex have skylights while the suite boasts a walk-in closet. Some rooms have no shower, tub only so check if you care. Q198 rooms (187 doubles €220 - 280, 11 suites €260 - 340). ADFGHKLPR6U hhhh

Mid-Range Anna J-5, Praha 2, Budečská 17, MNám. Míru, tel. (+420) 222 51 31 11, fax (+420) 222 51 51 58, [email protected], www.hotelanna.cz. Part of the Small Charming group, and the Anna is just that. A real gem, with first class services and a homely atmosphere that caters to a thoughtful clientele looking for something a little special. Q24 rooms (8 singles €63 - 77, 10 doubles €83 - 103, 4 triples €110 - 130, 2 suites €120 - 140). TARG hhh

Ariston K-4, Praha 3, Seifertova 65, MHlavní nádraží, tel. (+420) 222 78 25 17/(+420) 222 78 11 87, fax (+420) 222 78 03 47, [email protected], www.hotelariston.cz. Rooms at the Ariston are light and pastel coloured. Although it may seem far from the centre, it's just a couple of tram stops away. Q61 rooms (4 singles €50 - 100, 44 doubles €70 - 133, 12 triples €90 - 140, 1 suite €93 - 187). HAUGK hhh

Atlantic I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 9, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 81 10 84, fax (+420) 224 81 23 78, [email protected], www.hotel-atlantic.cz. This hotel is on the site of a roadside inn in the 17th century. The Atlantic remains on a busy road today but with renovated interiors which are now sleek, chic and classy, conference facilities and Fiesta, their self service restaurant, this is excellent value for being so close to the Old Town. Q88 rooms (9 singles €73 - 110, 52 doubles €97 - 129, 25 triples €112 - 158, 2 quads €141 - 187). HARULGK hhh

Best Western Hotel Páv H-5, Praha 1, Křemencova 13, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. (+420) 221 50 21 11, fax (+420) 221 50 22 23, [email protected], www.hotel-pav.cz. Prague is blessed with another Small Charming Hotel, this time in the New Town, where three buildings have been merged and beautifully reconstructed to incorporate classical elements with modern lines. And it is very minimalist: no prints on the walls and muted wood and beige interior. All rooms have twin beds, a safe, minibar, desk, TV and free Wi-Fi. Pets are welcome and the lower double price is for single occupancy. Q81 rooms (66 doubles €79 - 129, 15 triples €118 - 158). PARUKW

Claris J-4, Praha 2, Slezská 26, MNám. Míru, tel. (+420) 242 44 61 11, fax (+420) 242 44 61 12, [email protected], www.hotel-claris.cz. Set in the coveted Vinohrady district, Claris offers two floors of light, spacious and affordable rooms. It's just minutes away from the nám. Miru trams and metro station, or a 15-minute stroll into the centre, but you'll also find many good restaurant options in the immediate neighbourhood. Q24 rooms (2 singles €66 - 79, 22 doubles €86 - 106). PARLGK hhh

Ibis Praha Smíchov Praha 5, Plzeňská 14, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 221 70 17 00, fax (+420) 221 70 18 00, [email protected], www.ibishotel.com. The third Ibis for Prague gives their usual room rates and facilities in the ever-growing and trendier by the day area around Anděl. Hard working staff keep smiling and converse freely in a number of languages. The lobby bar is busy, which is very uncommon in hotels. An excellent choice for a comfortable stay across the river. Oh, and your pets are welcome too. Q228 rooms (singles €64 - 84, 214 doubles €76 - 96, 12 triples €88 - 108, 2 suites €154). PTHARULGK hhh

Park Inn H-7, Praha 2, Svobodova 1, MVyšehrad, tel. (+420) 225 99 52 25, fax (+420) 261 00 96 86, [email protected], www.prague.parkinn.com. A large modern hotel in an Art Deco-ish building; Park Inn is part of the Radisson SAS group. Good choice for biz people; they have conference facilities; meeting rooms and 210 guest

rooms. A fitness centre, large restaurant and indoor parking amp up the interest. Leisure travellers and outdoor lovers will appreciate the proximity to Vyšehrad castle and gardens. Q €70-300. PHA6FKW

Pensions Dům u velké boty C1, Praha 1, Vlašská 30, MMalos-transká, tel. (+420) 257 53 20 88, [email protected], www.dumuvelkeboty.cz. Old-fashion charm fairly oozes At the Big Boot. You'll find this cozy, family run hotel just at the bot-tom of the Castle. The building has been around awhile; but the owners have done a delightful job in mixing modern technology with period furnishings. Q Doubles start at 2700CZK. TJ

Apartments Marriott Executive Apartments I-5, Praha 2, V Tůních 9, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 221 02 21 02, fax (+420) 221 022 103, www.praguemarriottexecu-tiveapartments.com. An excellent choice for the corporate or business traveller; the fully furnished studio or one-bedroom apartments provide a “home office” area with two lines, high speed (wired) internet access and fully equipped kitchen. Housekeeping is available, as is dinner delivery from a number of nearby restaurants. A fitness area, plunge pool, plus business and conceirge services round out the ameni-ties. Q53 rooms (53 apartments €80 - 250). JAFC

Prague Classic Rental J-6, Praha 2, Záhřebská 37, MNáměstí Míru, tel./fax (+420) 222 51 64 66, tel. (+420) 603 33 16 79, [email protected], www.pragueclassicrental.cz. A variety of apartments in 3 excellent Vinohrady buildings. Get a feel for city life with a 1 week or longer stay in one of Prague Classic Rental’s fully furnished and modernly decorated apartments. From studios up to 3-bedroom flats, you’ll be well-catered to in your own personal space. Q 10,000-25,000CZK per week. A

Hostels Czech Inn K-6, Praha 10, Francouzská 76, MNám. Míru, tel. (+420) 267 26 76 00, fax (+420) 267 26 76 01, [email protected], www.czech-inn.com. The pun is excused due to the sheer design beauty and comfort these people have afforded your average backpacker. From some of the makers of Sir Toby’s and Miss Sophie’s, Czech Inn is the future of backpacking, we hope… the custom iron bed-steads and furniture, stylish fixtures, famous shower heads, café and wow-split-level apartments have already made the international press, even the 10 bed dorm is spacious. All beds have lockable drawers. Reservations necessary. Q33 rooms (12 doubles €50 - 57, 2 triples €58 - 65, 8 apartments €68 - 157, dorms €14 - 15). AUGBK

Old Prague Hostel F-2, Praha 1, Benediktská 2, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 82 90 58, [email protected], www.oldpraguehostel.com. Award-winning hostel slap bang in the thick of Prague’s nightlife. All entrances are key-coded for security, dorms (max. 8 beds) have lockers and are fairly cramped, but hey, all you’re going to do is sleep in there. Plus free internet, TV/DVD lounge, kitchen, breakfast and linen, a 24 hour reception and very friendly staff - the owner’s grandmother did all the artwork. Q From €10.90 in a 10-bed dorm to €30 for a single. G

Prague Square Hostel E-3, Praha 1, Melantrichova 10, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 24 08 59, [email protected], www.praguesquarehostel.com. Full service - friendly atmosphere is their slogan; and boy do they live up to it. Included in the price is breakfast, free linens & towels, internet &Wi-Fi, lockers and a luggage room. Checking out? They’ll keep your bags for free. Newly reconstructed and in a great part of town; definitely check it out. Q €10.90 per bed in 10-bed dorm up to €30 for a single. Includes taxes and breakfast. JGW

Courtyard Marriott Prague Airport Praha 6, Aviatická 1092/8, tel. (+420) 236 07 71 40, fax (+420) 236 07 70 78, www.marriott.com/prgpa. Security dictates no open windows so it’s all sealed but it’s all glass walls with magnificent views and Zen garden by the fitness centre with jasmine, lemon, orange and olive trees. The comfy library, lobby and business area (with to pay Wi-Fi) and Italian restaurant with open kitchen and as-required bar are all open to the public and connected to the airport via a covered walkway. Rooms are of the high Marriott standard with plasma TVs with keyboard, to pay internet, an ice machine on each floor and a fridge for you to stock. A welcome change to the airport’s services. Q235 rooms (132 singles €85 - 125, 98 doubles €85 - 125, 5 suites €175 - 195). PTHA�RUFLGKXW hhhh

Ramada Airport Hotel Prague Praha 6, K Letiště 25a, tel. (+420) 220 11 12 50, fax (+420) 220 11 12 56, [email protected], www.ramadainternational.com. The oldest and least appealing of the airport hotels and less inclined for the international traveller - it is adjacent to the domestic terminal and has no link other than overpriced taxi to the international (north) terminal. Rooms have safe, minibar, hair dryer etc. but are basic and with showers only while apartments comprise a room with small sofa bed and bathtub. Internet is not free but they have TV keyboards. Q PHAR6UGKXW

Airport hotels

24 RESTAURANTS


25RESTAURANTS


Prague is aptly named the city of a hundred spires, but to the gastronomically inclined it's also known as the city of a thousand restaurants. Prague's cosmopolitan character is reflected by her increasingly international and excellent cuisine, although there are still plenty of tourist traps.

Afghan Ariana F-2, Praha 1, Rámová 6, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 32 34 38, www.sweb.cz/kabulrest. Superb, especially if it happens to be the chilli chutney or a large plate of aubergines swimming in butter and salt. Ariana's Afghan is slightly spicy, and uses a lot of tomatoes and yoghurt. The portions may be a tad underweight but great Eastern cuisine, at better prices than most. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 250Kč). TA

Kabul Karolina D-4, Praha 1, Karolíny Světlé 14, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 224 23 54 52, www.kabulrestaurant.cz. Unassuming in appearance, perhaps like the city it's named after, it's the food and the pleasant courtyard seating at this Afghan restaurant that draws in the Czech and foreign crowds. The short menu lists among others kebabs, kofta (spicy meatballs) and ashak, a delicious dough pocket stuffed with beef, leek, yoghurt and mint. Don't forget to try the kadu yoghurt-pumpkin dessert before you leave. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PAB

American Ambiente Living K-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 59, MNám. Míru, tel. (+420) 222 72 78 51, www.ambi.cz. One of the Ambiente chain, and as eternally popular as the others, this place serves up fresh salad,

great stuffed peppers, ribs and of course chicken wings. This is billed as a 'li festyle' restaurant and serves delicious dishes wi th their distinctive brand of style. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300Kč). A

Buffalo Bill's H-5, Praha 1, Vodičkova 9, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 94 86 24, www.buffalobill.cz. A clear example of how the West has won in Prague, BB's is an American-style restaurant decorated like a saloon where the Duke or Clint Eastwood could meet for drinks. Al though classic barbecued ribs and burgers are offered, Bill's true speciali ty is Tex-Mex food in the form of burri tos, enchiladas and, the crowning achieve-ment of i ts genre, chimichangas. Limitless soft drinks can be had, but the glasses are so large you probably won't dare have more than one. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (150 - 300Kč). PTA

Cowboys Steaks & Cocktails A-1, Praha 1, Nerudova 40, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 296 82 61 07, www.kampagroup.com. Bazaar has morphed into the Kampa Group's sublime version of an American steakhouse. Premium-tequila-laden cowgirls on the bar, quality and affordable cuts of steak, seafood and even lobster (1,250Kč), complementary wine list, myriad salad and side offerings, cool bar, tunes and atmosphere. A fabulous cellar space, classy design, exellent cuisine and staff round out another Kampa success. The primo cafe serves Illy coffee, Cream & Dream gelato and more. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. (250 - 750Kč) PAIEBW

Hard Rock Cafe H-3, Praha 1, Malé náměstí 3, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 224 22 95 29, www.hardrock.com. Hard Rock Cafe Prague, Europe's largest Hard Rock Cafe, is situated in the four-story, V.J.Rott build-ing with a beautifully decorated neo-Renaissance façade and frescos. The cafe is located in the heart of old Prague less than 50 meters from the famous Old Town Square. The three-level, 1900-square-meter cafe includes two vibrant bars and features a unique compilation of memorabilia from Hard Rock's world-famous collection completed by a 5-meter custom-made chandelier in the shape of a guitar. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. 250 - 490Kč. A

Jáma D-4, Praha 1, V Jámě 7, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 22 23 83, www.jamapub.cz. Music and booze memorabilia from the Ramones to Jack Daniels adorn the walls and ceilings of this, one of Prague's most popular expat destinations. Big, juicy burgers, BLTs and Tex-Mex, as well as cheap local specials, lunch deals and beer. Their Sunday breakfast/brunch deals are large, tasty and have free refills of coffee. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (100 - 250Kč). TAGBW

Argentinean El Gaucho E-4, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 13, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 234 07 63 22, www.el-gaucho.cz. Once off the escalator, shake off the shopping mall feel by attending to your carnivorous needs. The mixed grill is hearty and with just the right hint of charcoal to make it authentic. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (500 - 900Kč). PAUE

La Boca I-3, Praha 1, Truhlářská 10, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 31 20 73, www.laboca.cz. La Boca, junior to the Hotel Salvator next door, serves up large and value-filled Argentinean dishes, making for a good option when you fancy a touch of flair without making your wallet feel like you're pur-chasing a ticket to Argentina. Within the expected rustic décor and brightly muralled walls the over-worked staff try their best and actually remain friendly. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 350Kč). PTAUG

La Casa Argentina F-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 35, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 31 15 12, www.lacasaar-gentina.cz. A labyrinthine homage to comfort and cuisine with added spice from tango dancers, a toucan and unique swing seats at the cellar bar. Service is impeccable and the signature Pampas-raised Argentinean beef cooked to perfec-tion (asado) at the open grill (parrilla). With a non-smoking winter garden, sports corridor with TVs and a wine cellar, this luxurious new addition to Prague's fine dining scene is set to cruise forward. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. (200 - 750Kč). PAIEG

Bakeries & Sandwiches Paneria D-2, Praha 1, Kaprova 3, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 224 82 79 12, www.paneria.cz. Paneria is a chain of bakeries with a tasty range of sweet and savoury snacks; including pastries, sandwiches, soups and bread that fuels you up. The pasta is not known for its value or flavour however. Fresh and fast. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Also at F-3, Nekázanka 19; I-4, Vodičkova 33; E-2, Dlouhá 50 and many other locations. (40 - 100Kč). S

Subway I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 51, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 21 44 17, www.subwaysandwiches.cz. Subway ensures your sub in Prague is the same as in Paris, France or Paris, Texas so their quality hot and cold subs, myriad of dressings, salad accessories, the huge catering sandwich, cookies and frequent fliers schemes are all avail-able here. Plus pivo - of course. ISIC cardholder discounts apply. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Also at B-2, Karmelitská 28. (59 - 148Kč). PS

Balkan Gitanes A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 7, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 53 01 63, [email protected], www.gitanes.cz. A vast and fairly expensive selection of local and international wines precede a vastly unusual menu for a Prague restau-rant. Octopus and mussels vie for space with veal and lamb, served in a marked Balkan slant, see sač, kajmak and sarma sauerkraut. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (185 - 435Kč). AG

Luka Lu G-4, Praha 1, Újezd 33, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 21 23 88, [email protected], www.lukalu.cz. Balkan and Italian inspired meals; coupled with warm, laid-back service makes Luka Lu a great choice for a nice, relaxed evening. Their fun interior and excellent back ter-race add to the ambience. Choose octopus, seafood, lamb or pasta. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 115-380kč. JB

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

E Live music S Take away

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking

O Casino M Nearest metro station

B Outside seating I Fireplace

R Internet W Wi-Fi 6 Animal friendly

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THE ROCK ‘N’ ROLLRESTAURANT

pragueDDům UU RRotta •• MMalé nnáměstí 33

420 2224 2229 5529 •• hhardrock.com

The RRock ‘‘n’ RRoll RRestaurant.

26 RESTAURANTS


27RESTAURANTS


Breakfast Bohemia Bagel A-4, Praha 1, Masná 2, MNám. Repub-liky, tel. (+420) 224 81 25 60, www.bohemiabagel.cz. The original. Internet bar, child play room, and all the bagels and other breakfast goodies your hungry belly craves. A laun-dry list of sandwiches, grilled items, soups and desserts for the rest of the day. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Also at Dukelských Hrdinu 48/Šimáckova 21, Prague 7, tel. 220 80 65 41. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00.

Red Hot & Blues F-3, Jakubská 12, MNám. Repub-liky, tel. (+420) 222 31 46 39. Daily breakfast for Brits and Americans plus one of the best weekend brunches in town. A distinct Czech-Mex flavour and some of the hardest working staff around. Until 11:30 weekdays, 16:00 at the weekend. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. (100 - 300Kc). AB

Brewery restaurants Novoměstský pivovar I-5, Praha 1, Vodičkova 20, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 222 23 24 48, www.npivovar.cz. A 340-seat restaurant, the New Town Brewery, not surpris-ingly, serves its own brews. This could easily have become a theme restaurant, because it can and does cater to large parties, so come early or book ahead. Lots of smoked meat and traditional dishes. Try the pork knuckle. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Sat 11:30 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (160 - 500Kč). PTAUEGB

Potr e f ená husa E -2 , Praha 1 , B í lkova 5 , MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 32 66 26, www.potrefenahusa.com. I t's a hospoda, Jim, but not as we know it. The new generation has landed, complete with Brazil-the-movie-type TV screens, a bar rail at the long bar for comfort, and very good, very large, and very popular food (from fallow deer to jambalaya), although the onus remains on 'the culture of drinking'. The Belgian shareholders help by importing their brews. Reservations recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 350Kč). Also at Nádražní 84, Praha 5; Nádražní 23, Praha 5; Resslova 1, Praha 2; Vinohradská 104, Praha 3; Verdunská / Ter-ronská 11, Praha 6;Platnéřská 88/9, Praha 1; Dlážděná 1003, Praha 1. PA

U Fleků H-5, Praha 1, Křemencova 11, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 224 93 40 19, www.ufleku.cz. A tourist trap since they started brewing their dark, rich aromatic beer on this spot in 1499. The brew is worth the trip in itself, and should be accompanied by hearty pub food. The loud and boisterous crowds of tourists and locals are a show worth watching as everyone and his tour guide treks through. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (85 - 320Kč). A

U Kalicha I-6, Praha 2, Na Bojišti 12, MI.P. Pavlova, tel. (+420) 296 18 96 00, www.ukalicha.cz. The pub that features at the beginning of the Czech literary classic 'The Good Soldier Švejk' as the planned location of the never-to-be meeting "...at six in the evening after the war." An oompah band keeps the atmosphere rolling. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 300Kč). PAEG

U Pinkasů E-4, Praha 1, Jungmannovo nám. 16, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 221 11 11 50, www.upinkasu.cz. The presence of locals is encouraging in this beer hall whose not unimpressive claim to fame is that of being the first pivnice in Prague to have Pilsner Urquell on draught. A com-memorative plaque and a tap mark the spot where this coun-try's most renowned beer began to flow in 1843. In today's

establishment you'll find a courtyard terrace and two floors of beer swilling and sausage eating. More elegant no-smoking rooms are available for dining; the menu, although traditional, is uninspired. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. (150 - 200Kč). AB

Chinese Fu Hao H-5, Praha 1, Křemencova 10, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 721 87 35 37. Just look for the enormous Chinese vases in the windows opposite Prague's most celebrated beer hall, U Fleků, to find this friendly restaurant decorated in the usual faux Chinese fashion. Although the menu is on the simplistic side, the dishes are delicious. Not surprisingly, given we're in the Czech Republic, the duck is excellent. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (60-100 Kč).

Huang He K-7, Praha 10, Vršovická 1, tel. (+420) 271 74 66 51, www.huanghe.cz. Chinese as good as it should be; they spice the food up properly then warn Czech clients not to order that dish. Enjoy the hot and sour soup, but everything else on the menu is worth ordering, too. Tram N°6 from from I.P. Pavlova to the Nádrazí Vršovice stop. Reservations recom-mended. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Also in Prague 9, Kolbenova 1, tel. 283 89 05 18. (100 - 300Kč). AGP

Macao I-3, Praha 1, Truhlářská 3, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 31 60 93, www.macaorestaurant.cz. The staff smile at you so broadly that you worry their heads may burst. This attitude is consistent enough that you realise it's sincere. A well-priced menu is offered in the midst of the set for a Tom Cruise film circa 1986; all white, and gold, and hard. Although the dishes are all soft and sweet. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (100 - 300Kč). PAU

Czech Baráčnická rychta A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 23, MMalos-transká, tel. (+420) 257 53 24 61, www.baracnick-arychta.cz. This dark and cosy pub, aglow from the large cop-per lighting fixtures, may be the perfect place to experience the beauty of Czech winters, although in the warmer months it may translate as a little stuffy. Either way the food is as earthy and homemade as it comes in Prague. A must for those wanting a downbeat, 'real' Czech eating experience. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (50 - 150Kč). AE

Bílá vrána Praha 3, Jagellonská 10, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 737 07 00 05, www.bilavrana.com. Czech pubs are moving from their working class roots and employ-ing inventive chefs to elevate the seemingly similar menus they host. The White Raven is no exception with even lunch specials inviting compliments. Excellent service and quality join some English elements (yet to be tried Sunday roast and Beamish in cans). QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (90 - 300Kč). BSW

Bredovský dvůr F-4, Praha 1, Politických vězňů 13, MHlavní nádraží, tel. (+420) 224 21 54 28, www.bre-dovskydvur.unas.cz. Another modern version of the Czech hospoda tradition, Bredovský dvůr delivers cellar ambience dimly lit by funky lights, a long iron bar, cool furniture and excellent kitchen. An extremely popular lunchtime attracts the crowds with the 75kč menu until 2pm. The menu mimics the funky and old world fusion of the décor, with Czech dishes tweaked by international additions, pasta dishes providing a tasty and cheap alternative, and big screen enticing the sports fans. Try buck steak, venison goulash, or stick to old favourites. Additional seating around the open kitchen is avail-able at the rear. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 300Kč). PA

Budweiser Budvar Restaurant Praha 6, Aviatická 1092/8, tel. (+420) 224 24 25 77, www.restaurant-letiste.cz. In the cold environs of the new shopping centre by the airport Marriott this Budvar restaurant hardly en-tices with character. The traditional Czech cuisine is good and although prices are higher than in town, it's worth grabbing a meal here before entering the vastly inflated prices of the airport itself. The café next door has com-fortable seats but little else to attract other than there isn't anything better at the airport. QOpen 10:30 - 22:00. (120 - 440Kč). PTA

Celnice I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 21 22 40, www.kolkovna.cz. An excel-lent, upmarket restaurant owned by the Pilsner brewery decorated with period photos and brewing equipment. The menu includes all the Czech standards including pork knuckle and rabbit, but Celnice also serves some more imaginative and vegetarian options. Unfortunately, the large space can get noisy when the downstairs bar turns up the volume later in the evening. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. (150 - 335Kč). PAGB

Ferdinanda I-4, Corner of Opletalova & Politických věznů, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 222 24 43 02, www.ferdinanda.cz. Two floors, two bars, two big screens, many tables, beer kegs, weird furnishings, and excellent service bring Ferdinanda to the hardly parched but very welcoming notice of Prague's beer lovers. The food is good too with a delicious gulaš and more. Speedy lunch specials and breakfast menu add to their staples. Pivovar Ferdinand produces the Sedm Kulí 13 degrees beer apparently named for the seven bullets that killed Franz Ferdinand - the archduke, not the band. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (85 - 250Kč). GW

Folklore Garden Na Zlíchově 18, tel. (+420) 724 33 43 40, [email protected], www.folkloregarden.cz. If you're not one to sit still during a meal, then this is the restaurant for you. At Folklore Garden, you're fed large portions of traditional Czech food and beer, and simulta-neously entertained with a two and one-half hour show with live music and folk dancing. Great fun if you're in for a country-style party; active participation is welcomed. Folklore Garden is south of Smíchov; tram N°12, 14 or 20 to Hlubočepy. QOpen 20:00 - 22:30. (560 - 1050Kč). PAEB

Sovovy Mlýny B-3, Praha 1, U Sovových mlýnů 2, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 53 59 00, www.sovovymlyny.com. The restaurant in the whi te mill building on Kampa Island is especiall y recommended for i ts riverside terrace; i ts low and so close to the Vl tava lock canal that you can almost clink glasses wi th the par tying tourists on the boats chugging to and from the Vl tava locks. The menu includes many decent fish dishes but dont let that distract you from the views of the weir and Charles Bridge. Bring some-thing warm and mosqui to repellent. QOpen, Mon, Thu, Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue, Wed. PAGB

Století C-4, Praha 1, Karolíny Světlé 21, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 222 22 00 08, www.stoleti.cz. The food is great value, the atmosphere lively and the service fantastic. Even better, Století is one of the only restaurants that is seriously attempting to progress Czech cuisine while keeping it Czech at the same time. Plus, they are non-smoking and offer take-away. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300Kč). PTAUIGBS

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29RESTAURANTS


Švejk D-2, Praha 1, Široká 20, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 224 81 39 64. Someone spent some money (and not much by the look of it) to make a new restaurant look old - basically what a beer hall would look like in the Czech pavilion at the World Expo. That said, Švejk restaurants are always good for traditional food like duck, pork and wild boar served with dumplings, cabbage and a local beer. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (100 - 300Kč). A

Tlustá kachna D-2, Praha 1, Široká 4, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 224 81 96 68, www.tlustakachna.cz. Imagi-native Czech cuisine can be done; and the Fat Duck is doing it. Pork or duck with cabbage and dumplings isn't new or exotic; but done right it is delicious, and it's done right here. The must order though is the creamy garlic soup. Czech wine and beer take care of the drinks. Two additional things stand out; excellent service and big portions. Stop by. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 139-390kč.

U Maltézských rytířů B-2, Praha 1, Prokopská 10, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 53 00 75, www.umaltezskychrytiru.com. This historical restaurant called ‘At the Maltese Cross' is housed in a 14th century building called ‘at the black horse' where the entrance does not prepare you for the maze of tiny rooms below. The international menu is small but inspired with excellent Chateaubriand for two and traditional Czech dishes. Fish and meat is predominantly organic (bio) and the ambience is understated and secluded. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (300 - 600Kč). AI

U Modré růže E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 16, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 22 58 73, www.umodreruze.cz. The Blue Rose serves refined Czech dishes in an antique set-ting to make you feel like a lord or lady. The candle-lit 15th century brick cellar is an ideal place for a romantic dinner with your sweetheart. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. (350 - 750Kč). AEGP

U Mušketýra I-5, Praha 1, Mezibranská 13, tel. (+420) 296 22 00 01, www.musketyr.com. A labyrinthine cellar space (it can seat up to 200 diners) with eclectic furniture and good service provides excellent, well-priced Czech and international dishes. Svíčková and gulaš - topped with lashes of freshly grated horseradish - particularly recom-mended. Krušovice Mušketýr beer for 18Kč. Lovely... QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (95 - 390Kč). B

U Ševce Matouše A-1, Praha 1, Loretánské nám. 4, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 220 51 45 36, [email protected], www.usevcematouse.cz. Matthew the Cobbler has seen some famous people, like the Spanish Queen and the Pitt-Jolie couple. Mere mortals head there for the Czech specialities like Svíčková Stroganoff and Staročeská bašta, knedlík, zelí (Bohemian plate with dumplings and cab-bage.) The beautiful dining room, so close to Prague Castle, make this a good choice for an elegant Prague night out. Q (169-349 CZK).

U Zlaté konvice E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 26, MStaroměstské, tel. (+420) 224 22 52 93, www.ukonvice.cz. Moderately priced traditional Czech dishes in a fabulous, many roomed, authentically decorated cellar space served up by a slew of avid waiters makes this a great Old Town getaway. Use the steps descending from beside the Grand Café Praha's terrace as the entrance from Melant-richova is a tad stale. The copper vats hold Pilsner Urquell, and here any hope of a cheap session goes up the chimney as a half litre is 80Kč. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (150 - 295Kč). A

French Brasserie La Provence E-3, Praha 1, Štupartská 9, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 296 82 61 55, www.kampagroup.com. The people that brought you Kampa Park went to great lengths to create a genuine brasserie in the heart of Prague. The result is a ‘best of' amalgam of several Parisian brasseries; a stunning Belle Epoque room with large windows. Specialising in delicious fresh seafood (anything from oysters to lobster), game like rabbit in tarragon sauce and vegetarian onion quiche are also available. The sommelier has selected several uncomplicated wines (that can also be had by glass) that go wonderfully with the food. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (130 - 600Kč). PA

Céleste H-6, Praha 2, Rašínovo nábřeží 80, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. (+420) 221 98 41 60, [email protected], www.celesterestaurant.cz. Newly opened on top of the Dancing House (Tančící dům); excellent French cuisine and fabulous city views are yours for the money. The contemporary restaurant is set in an expansive space; complete with a sum-mer terrace. The cuisine is creative and solid; lots of seafood and both the wine and dessert lists are substantial. There's an accompanying bar on the ground floor. QOpen 12:00 - 14:30 lunch & 18:30 - 22:30 dinner. Closed Sun. 375-685 Kč. JB

Francouzská restaurace F-3, Praha 1, Náměstí Republiky 5, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 00 27 70, www.francouzskarestaurace.cz. Superb French (and some Czech) gourmet dishes from this restaurant’s award winning chefs. Mussels, rabbit, foie gras and duck all make delightful appearances in one of the world’s masterpieces of art nouveau architecture (the Municipal House building itself) and interior. Lunch specials and a concert package lower prices somewhat, and try the Jazz Brunch on the first Sunday of each month. Q Open 12:00 - 16:00 & 18:00 - 23:00. (600 - 2,000Kč). ABEPU

Pálffy Palác B-1, Praha 1, Valdštejnská 14, MMalos-transká, tel. (+420) 257 53 05 22, www.palffy.cz. The ambience of this 100% antique, turn-of-the-century dining room is shabbily aristocratic, and the clientele seem to feel the need to keep up appearances. It is, on the other hand, the perfect place to ask for the hand of your sweetheart. A favourite weekend brunch treat, the excellent smoked salmon and spinach pancakes are only surpassed by the stunning views of the castle gardens. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (400 - 900Kč). ABGPT

Sarah Bernhardt I-3, Praha 1, U Obecního domu 1, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 19 59 00, www.sarah-bernhardt.cz. Hotel dining is reaching dizzy heights in Prague and the art nouveau design of this restaurant is divinely matched by Chef Jan Mošna's inspired menues with set meals for the undecided or choose from swordfish, turbot or rabbit. Visit their famous jazz Sunday brunch (12:00 - 16:00, 890Kč). Live piano daily. QOpen 6:30 - 10:00&12:00-16:00&18:00-23:00. Open 06:30 - 10:00 (10:30 Sat & Sun), 12:00 - 16:00 & 18:00 - 23:00. (500 - 900Kč) (750 - 1,500Kč). PAEG

U Malířů B-3, Praha 1, Maltézské nám. 11, MMalos-transká, tel. (+420) 257 53 03 18, www.umaliru.cz. This is one of those restaurants that many acknowledge is a must-do in Prague as it has the reputation of the best French cuisine in the city. The pedigree is long, the restaurant was given three stars by an otherwise difficult to please King Rudolf II - in 1544, if you please. Go for the sumptuous décor and the ambience of wealth. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (1,200 - 2,000Kč). PTAG

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Universal H-5, Praha 1, V jirchářích 6, MNárodní Třida, tel. 224 93 44 16, [email protected], www.universalres-taurant.cz. There seems to be a load of French restaurants hanging about; but for a nice sampling and good prices; head to Universal. Here you'll be treated to a near-perfect salmon tartar, a creamy chicken dijonnaise (sauce on the side, thank you!) not to mention filling salads, and of course delectable desserts. If you are in the mood for brunch; you most likely won't find a fresher more creative mid-day meal. Served Sundays from 11:00-14:00. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. 165-299 Kč, Brunch: 235 or 265 Kč.

Greek Kavala Prague 6, Charlese de Gaulla 5, MDejvická, tel. (+420) 224 32 51 81, www.kavala-praha.cz. Following an extensive reconstruction, Kavala joins and adds to the emergence of Prague 6 as the location of some of Prague's finest eating establishments (well, diplomats are a notorious group of eaters and drinkers, so why not?). Good word-of-mouth buzz and Greek chefs make this another authentic haven for souvlaki, calamari and tender lamb lovers. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. (200 - 650Kč). PA

Kri-Kri J-5, Praha 2, Korunní 48, MNáměstí Míru, tel. (+420) 222 540 400, [email protected], www.kri-kri.cz. It's all Greek to them. From the food to the service, Kri-Kri is about as authentic as you can get off the island. Be prepared for a long evening and don't go in starving as the service isn't the best. However, once your food arrives you'll be wallowing in happiness over their stifado, shrimp saganaki and tzatziki. Their Greek house wines are surprisingly cheap and good. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. 145-210 Kč.

Olympos K-4, Praha 3, Kubelíkova 9, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 222 72 22 39, www.tavernaolympos.cz. Right-fully the most famous Greek restaurant in Prague. Excellent Grecian starters, a haul of fresh seafood, and friendly, hard working staff. Superb. And the garden here is one of the best kept secrets in Prague and has a great playground to keep the kids happy. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (200 - 500Kč). TAB

Indian Indian Jewel I-3, Praha 1, Týn 6, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 01 56, [email protected], www.indianjewel.cz. A true jewel in Prague Indian cusine. Flavour is the name of the game here - whether it's their tasty curries, kebabs or tandoori specialties; the full spectrum of the Indian continent is duly explored. The sag paneer, lamb vindaloo and tandoori murgh are especially notable. The head chef has worked all over the world; including restaurants in India and Thailand, so knows his stuff. Q 180-490 Kč. JAB

Manni Mini Praha 3, Seifertova 11, MHlavní nádraží, tel. (+420) 222 51 16 60. From the people who run several oriental oriented late night markets comes this small, functional but very tasty Indian place to fill the gap in the market. Curries of every hue and origin (tandoori, biryani, Punjabi, dopiaza, Madras, jalfrezi and vindaloo of course) come in vegetarian, chicken, lamb and prawn variations with basmati rice and a wide smile. Good not brilliant, but oh, what a price. Wine for just 150Kč too. Oh, and they serve pizza too …? QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (100 - 170Kč). N

Masala J-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 13, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 722 90 76 66, www.masala.cz. Authentic (no beef) and not (dried fruit in the samosas) at the same time, but Masala has an owner who understands customer service and therefore whatever quibbles you have with it today, tomor-row they may be gone. The spice quotient is up to you and the vindaloo was delicious without being nuclear. With homemade ingredients and divine desserts; Masala is looking like one of the best Indian options in town. Reservations recommended - it is very small. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (100 - 250Kč). AS

International Allegro D-2, Praha 1, Veleslavínova 2a, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 221 42 70 00, www.fourseasons.com. Prague's first, and still only, Michelin Star rated restaurant. The qual-ity of the Four Seasons hotel chain is obvious in the classic, oak-panelled line of Allegro's interior as well as by the range of delicious Italian and Bohemian specialties on offer. Their view of the Vlatava and castle can't be beaten, although their prices can. Often named the best restaurant in Prague. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:30 - 15:00. (950 - 1,150Kč). PAUEG

Ambiente Pasta Fresca F-3, Praha 1, Celetná 11, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 23 02 44, www.ambi.cz. This classic yet laid back Italian serves up delicous and not over-priced culinary creations, and the service is superb. Try the carpaccio con tartufi to begin and if you make it past the long list of homemade pasta, the steak and salmon are both expertly cooked. Chocolate fondue for dessert is a great finish for a great meal in a great restaurant. Check out their excellent lunch deals. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Café 10:00-24:00 (120 - 350Kč). PAG

Bed Lounge E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 2, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 43 58, www.bedlounge.cz. Sometimes, it's just too much work to sit in a chair and eat. Thank good-ness for Bed Lounge. Its location right off of Old Town Square means you can have a meal and take a nap with out missing a sightseeing step. If you are looking to experience this novelty, it might be better to just go for a couple of cocktails. The food menu includes sheet friendly items such as lamb chops with potato puree and spaghetti with mozzarella and cherry toma-toes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 255-485 Kč. JW

PALLADIUM, Náměstí Republiky 12. (gurmánské) patro

Get spoiled by the oriental atmosphere! Have a seat and taste the traditional south and north indian specialties made by indian chef of his recipes.

Ve stylové restauraci, nesoucí indické ženské jméno Chanchala, na Vás dýchne pravá atmosféra orientální Indie. Ochutnejte tradiční speciality severní a jižní Indie, připravené indickým šéfkuchařem dle vlastních receptur.

Enjoy the Chanchala oriental atmosphere ...

Za vůní orientu do restaurace CHANCHALA ...

*bar *čoko-fontána *catering *jídlo s sebou *rozvoz jídel *párty na klíč *lekce vaření

*domácí párty s kuchařem *čajovna *vodní dýmka *orientální hudba *keramikaINDIAN RESTAURANT

CHANCHALACHANCHALA

Table reservation: +420 225 771 150www.chanchala.cz, [email protected]

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31RESTAURANTS


Bellevue C-3, Praha 1, Smetanovo nábřeží 18, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 222 22 14 43, www.pfd.cz. A fantastic setting, looking out to Charles Bridge, the castle and the Vltava, and a classic atmosphere sets the scene for you to feel dead posh if you want and if you can afford it. Chef Petr Bures prepares dishes like fillet of fallow deer with rose hip sauce, caramelised pears, homemade spätzle and wild mushrooms. Try their jazz brunch on Sundays. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00 & 17:30-23:00. (1,000 - 2,000Kč). PTAUEGB

Brasserie Praha I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 8 (Prague Mar-riott Hotel), MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 88 12 12, www.marriottprague.com. This subtle space inside the Prague Marriott is classy yet laid back. Dishes from the open kitchen are simple, delicious and classically interna-tional, heavy on the French. Top choices include the lamb shank with creamed spinach and crushed potatoes and the French onion soup. QOpen 06:30 - 11:00 & 12:00-23:00. (195 - 625Kč). AE

Černý slon F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 1, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 32 15 21, www.hotelcernyslon.cz. For a taste of medieval living, dine below the vaulted ceil-ings of this small restaurant in an ancient building across the narrow street from Týn Church. Feast on wild boar, venison, and classic European dishes or just opt for the Old Town plate consisting of pork, roast duck, sausages, dumplings and cabbage. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (100 - 400Kč). PAB

City Cafe Cosmopolit 4-H, Praha 1, Spálená 29, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 222 54 00 64/(+420) 777 25 39 65, [email protected], www.cafecos-mopolit.cz. A pleasant place to wile away some hours; City Cafe Cosmopolit offers a kick-back lounge on the ground floor with a stylish restaurant above. Cuisine is an eclectic mix of continental, modern Czech and Asian. Of note is their big sushi selection and wine list; which consists of more than 50 bottles; all available by the glass. Serves breakfast too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. 115 - 350 Kč. TJA

Esprit Orangerie Praha 4, Na Pankráci 15/1684, MVysehrad, tel. (+420) 296 89 50 30, www.holiday-inn.cz. Modern Czech and international cuisine served up in a lovely designer space. Esprit Orangerie is a decidedly different hotel restaurant, worthy of a visit even if you aren't staying at the Holiday Inn. Czech specialties like beef and duck are beautifully presented; and their dessert chef ob-viously enjoys his job. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. 340-590kč. PTHABS

Hergetova Cihelna C-2, Praha 1, Cihelná 2b, MMalos-transká, tel. (+420) 257 53 55 34, www.kampagroup.com. Part of the Kampa Group of restaurants, this is a winner in every respect. A huge menu of Czech and international fa-vourites tantalises, with great Neapolitan pizza's thrown in for good measure. Sunday brunch with professionals on hand to look after your kids while you relax. We love it and you will too. Check out the upstairs lounge complete with pool table and big screen. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00. (70 - 400Kč). PTAEGB

Hybernia I-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 7, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 22 60 04, www.hybernia.cz. To see the wait staff in action is like watching ballet with the fast forward button jammed down - understandable when you see the queue at lunchtime. Baked, boiled, fried and grilled meat rules the realm here whether it be beef, pork, duck or other poultry. Vegetarian dishes are also available but we suspect it's just an attempt to be politically correct. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 23:30. (100 - 250Kč). PTAEGB

La Degustation F-2, Praha 1, Haštalská 18, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 31 12 34, www.ladegusta-tion.cz. This self-styled Bohemian Bourgeoisie restaurant from the Ambiente Group is a luxurious corner restaurant with an open kitchen and a private dining room feel to it. Set menus intrigue the senses with a heady list of amuse-bouche, there is a pre- and post-theatre menu, and the sommelier has created a superb wine list. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun. (945 - 2,450Kč). A

La Galerie H-7, Praha 2, Na Slupi 2b, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. (+420) 236 07 10 28, [email protected], www.lagalerie.cz;. Simple quality is how best to describe La Galerie. The menu has a small selection, carefully chosen and prepared by Chef Mikuláš Gottwald. Gottwald has worked at top British and Austrian restaurants and combines flavors gloriously. Take the slightly boiled lobster tail with steamed lettuce salad and mango in a cognac mousse, for example. Massive wine list too. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. Czech cuisine is served from 11:00-23:00; an international menu from 18:00-24:00. Starters: 300kč, Mains: 500kč, Desserts: 250kč.

Le Grill J-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 12, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+420) 226 22 61 11, www.kempinski-prague.com. A magical combination of local and international cuisine, Le Grill, inside the Kempinski Hotel is really pretty good. Yes, it's in a ho-tel, but skip that fact and savor Chef Marek Fichtner advanced kitchen skills. The beef and lamb are both excellent choices and whatever you do save room for dessert; order pralines and the black forest cake. Q Daily: Breakfast: 7:00-11:00; Lunch: 12:00-15:00; Dinner: 18:00-22:30 360-880kč. PYA

Mlýnec C-3, Praha 1, Novotného lávka 9, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 221 08 22 08, www.pfd.cz. The Mill has the wonderful setting by the tower on the east end of Charles Bridge, and as such the terrace is a veritable who's who of Prague A-listers. Not surprising when the chef is Marek Purkart, the first man to receive the Michelin Bibendum twice. Sample his grilled New Zealand lamb chops with truffle sauce, green broad beans and coucous. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00; 17:30 - 23:00. (600 - 1,500Kč). PAUEB

Monarch E-2, Praha 1, V Kolkovně 6, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 55 45, [email protected], www.mon-arch.cz. The Monarch people are all about the wine, so you'll be sure to have an extensive selection to mull over. This is a wine bar and a grill so excellent cuisine to accompany your bottle, like steak, fish, pork and chicken. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 22:00. (145-489 CZK) Also operate a wine bar at Na Perštýně 15, 224 23 96 02. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00.

Mount Steak D-3, Praha 1, Josefská 1, MMalostran-ská, tel. (+420) 257 53 26 52, www.mount-steak.cz. Mountains of steak, mountains of choice, mountains of choice steak, from the regular beef and pork to the more exotic shark and crocodile. This place is for meat lovers, in case you hadn't noticed, although they do have a very limited vegetarian section. QOpen, Mon 17:00 - 23:00, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (150 - 480Kč). PAG

Nostress E-1, Praha 1, Dušní 10, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 70 07, www.nostress.cz. They're not kidding. With comfor table designer furni ture and steady ambient music, stress is the last thing on your mind. Fusion and Asian cuisine dominate the menu, but you shouldn't pass up a chance to try one of the delicious Belgian desserts - the owner is Belgian. Highlights include dim sum and wontons as well as celebrity sightings (Joseph Fiennes, Maggie Smith and, er, Begbie). Loud live music on Saturday evenings. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (250 - 600Kč). PAIE

Perfect I-3, Praha 1, Soukenická 4, MNáměstí Repub-liky, tel. (+420) 222 31 16 00, www.perfectrestaurant.cz. A very risky name for a new restaurant, but the cheeky guys running this café/restaurant/club certainly have a point. With great breakfast deals, the 195-295Kč eat-all-you-can lunch menus and imaginative a-la-carte dining in the evening, it certainly sounds perfect - there's even a children's menu. After dark, the place transforms into a club with daily DJ music and a wide range of cocktails. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. PAGX

Pizzeria U Tučňáků Praha 5, Nádražní 19, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 257 31 66 50. Colourful yet sterile, but the food is well prepared, large and well priced. The pizza oven keeps the place warm, although is more than pizza on their menu. Chicken steak with beautifully poached salmon and spinach is delicious and comes with a tasty cheese sauce. The plate of chicken, roast broccoli and potatoes au gratin a huge meal for 139Kč. Beer is a tad expensive, but the cocktail list makes up for this. Everything is fresh and the staff good. All in all a great place. The interesting looking music bar downstairs is open from 16:00 - 04:00. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (85 - 260Kč).

Pravda E-2, Praha 1, Pařížská 17, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 32 62 03, www.pravdarestaurant.cz. Not just the name of the old communist party mouthpiece (and a terrific Tom Stoppard play), but also a successful dining room, with huge windows for maximum pose street visibility, great high white walls and a very enviable mezzanine floor shaped like a box at the opera. The vichysoisse 165Kč and a delicious tagliatelle with parma ham 245Kč, are very good. Another Tommy Sjöö restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (250 - 600Kč). PAGB

Primitiv Pravěk I-5, Praha 2, Sokolská 60, MI.P. Pavlova, tel. (+420) 224 94 19 38, www.pravek.cz. The fourth of these prehistoric themed restaurants that serve slabs of everything from ostrich to game, chicken to salmon, with more than a little Yabba-dabba-doo. Give yourself up to total immersion into all things Fred Flintstone from the faux rock, mammoth tusk décor to the hunter-gatherer portions of meat, with signature sauces and not many vegetables. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Also at Prague 2, Nezamyslova 10, tel. 224 93 62 72; Prague 5, Na Bělidle 40, tel. 257 32 69 08, Prague 7, Milady Horákové 52, tel. 233 31 08 84. (80 - 280Kč).

Some useless facts to amaze your family and friends.

• The very first fair in the world took place in August 1754 in Veltrusy. It was called Veltruský velký trh tovaru Království českého or The Big Fair of Goods of the Czech Kingdom in Veltrusy. • Europe’s only chain bridge can be found over the Lužnice River in the South Bohemian town of Stádlec. The bridge was constructed in the first half of the 19th century and is still in use today.• So-called Burgundy Blue grapes; used to make Pinot Noir, were imported to Moravia by Charles IV. In Czech, the wine is called Rulandské modré.

Pocket LintInterested in learning more about the events and im-portant places of the Velvet Revolution? While on your travels through the Nové Město parts of Prague 1, be sure to watch the street signs and your maps for these buildings. Most aren’t well-known or particularly of inter-est when strolling by; but they were keeping a watchful eye over the historical occurrences of that fateful time. Read a full accounting of events on Page 15.

Corner of Národní třída and Mikulandská: This is the place where the students met up with the riot police dur-ing their peaceful march on November 17th. More than 165 students were injured with nightsticks wielded by the officers. There is a bronze sculpture commemorating the action under the arches of the restaurant on the corner. This event came to be known as the “Masakr.”

Ve Smečkách 26, Činoherní Klub Theatre: Now popularly known as the “strip club street” this theatre is where Václav Havel and other dissidents formed the Civic Forum, a group of individuals who protested the current government and acted as a spokesgroup for other “like-minded citizens.” After the Masakr, theatres across Prague cancelled their performances and held public discussions instead. It was at one of these discus-sions, on November 19, that Civic Forum was founded.

Václavské náměstí: One of the most recognizable Velvet Revolution sites, mass demonstrations were held practically constantly here from November 18 onwards. For the people of Prague, the Wenceslas Monument is a typical meeting point. During the protests, the monument was adorned with posters, flags and political slogans. Here also is the Memorial to the Victims of Communism. In November 1989, however there was no memorial here, but the spot has historical significance. In 1969 a student set himself on fire here in protest of the ongoing Soviet occupation. One month later, another student did the same. During the events of 1989, students set up a shrine to communist regime victims, and today you can see the permanent memorial.

Václavské náměstí 36: What is now a Marks and Spen-cer was originally the home of the Melantrich Publishing House and the Socialist Party newspaper. It was from the balconies here that Václav Havel and other dissidents addressed the crowds gathered on the Square below.

Adria Palác, Jungmannovo náměstí: Civic Forum headquarters in the two weeks it took for the Communist government to fall.

Letná Plain: Site of a massive demonstration that signalled the beginning of the end on November 25 & 26. Nearly 750,000 people gathered for the demonstrations held here.

Pocket Watch

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33RESTAURANTS


Suterén G-5, Praha 1, Masarykovo nábř. 26, MNárodí třída, tel. (+420) 224 93 36 57, www.suteren.com. Featur-ing such alcohol-flavoured dishes as salmon mojito - marinaded with Caribbean rum and mint, pheasant on slivovice and even lemon sorbet with vodka, this place is too intriguing to miss. The eclectic menu lists New Zealand mussels, Moscow caviar, escar-got, carpaccio and pasta, plus Thai dishes. In the cellar, modern furnishings complement the bare brick walls. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (150 - 320Kč). PA

Svatá Klára Praha 7, U Trojského zámku 35, tel. (+420) 233 54 01 73, www.svataklara.cz. For something com-pletely different, descend 16m underground in this natural cave made into a wine cellar and restaurant. The rough stone is cheered up with classical furniture and artworks, and the classy menu features Czech game dishes such as pheasant breast with forest herbs and sage. Join the likes of Brangelina and find Svatá Klára near Trojska castle, a short taxi ride from town. QOpen 18:00 - 00:00. (300 - 1,440Kč). PAI

U Dominikána D-3, Praha 1, Jilska 7, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 24 85 55, [email protected], www.savic.eu. A lovely international mix of cuisine. U Dominikána offers up pastas, seafood and Czech dishes in a classy and inviting space. Their smoked salmon risotto melts in the mouth, and their traditional Moravian plate offers up a delectable sample of regional special-ties - for those with an appetite. Q 199-595 Kč. JB

U Emy Destinnové I6, Praha 2, Kateřínská 7, MKar-lovo nám., tel. (+420) 224 91 84 25, [email protected]. Built in the birthplace building of the opera star, U Emy Destinnové is global cuisine at its very best. A cosy interior envelopes you and detracts nothing from the menu of steaks, seafood and regional specialties. The scallops are a highlight, as is the grilled eggplant. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. 180-420kč.

U Zlaté studně B-1, Praha 1, U Zlaté studně 4, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 53 33 22, www.zlatastudna.cz. U Zlaté studně is still making waves in Prague's restaurant scene after a successful opening. Sit-ting high above the city thanks to its roof-top elevation, it still manages to snuggle beneath the castle, and the classic architectural lines set the scene for quality cuisine and vintage wines. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (400 - 690Kč). PTAB

Villa Richter Restaurants C1, Praha 1, Staré zámecké schody 6, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 21 90 79, [email protected], www.villarichter.cz. This newly opened trio of restaurants sits right below Prague Castle in the recently restored St. Wenceslas' Vineyards. The amazing view is the main reason to go; the food is way overpriced for the quality. Panorama Pergola is a good stopping spot for a glass of wine or quick bite; small snacks like soups and sausage make up the menu. Mid-range, price wise is Piano Terra. A huge ter-race and Baroque inside dining room support a menu of mainly Czech game specialties. The cushiest venue is Piano Nobile whose menu includes a variety of seafood and whose seats are made up of large couches outside and a glass-covered interior. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Piano Nobile: 590-710Kč, Piano Terra: 140-280Kč, Panorama Pergola: 80-160Kč. JAB

Vltava H-2, Praha 1, nám. Curieových 100, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 234 61 41 00, www.hotelpresident.cz. The appropriately named restaurant has panoramic views of the river, a suitably designed interior and creative menu to match. Steak with roasted shallots served with mashed potato, monkfish, Tandoori and delicious des-serts to match the good wine list. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00 & 18:30-23:30. PTA

V Zátiší D-3, Praha 1, Liliová 1, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 222 22 11 55, www.vzatisi.cz. A restaurant and wine bar that is possibly the best in Prague. Without being snooty, it manages to serve fabulous and inventive meals to a middle-aged crowd of foreigners and locals. Indeed, the best things about it (apart from the delicious pear-gor-gonzola salad, the chocolate parfait with raspberries and the perfect latte) are the relaxed, intimate atmosphere, and the waiters who enjoy their jobs and know their wines. Not to be missed. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00; 17:30 - 23:00. (600 - 1,500Kč). PAUG

Zinc I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 7, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+420) 221 82 23 00, [email protected], www.zinc.cz. Gordon Ramsey moved out and Zinc has moved in. The new Hilton Old Town restaurant replaces Ramsey's short-lived Maze and is promising modern European cuisine with Asian flavours. That means you can feast on such creativities as miso glazed Chilean sea bass or lacquered duck ravioli and pan-fried foie gras. Executive chef Ari Munandar hails from Indonesia and has a well-deserved excellent reputation in Prague and elsewhere. A Thai sous chef adds to the Asian flair. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. Open for breakfast 6:30-10:30 & lunch from 12:00-15:00. 480-680 Kč.

Italian Amici Miei H3, Praha 1, Vězeňská 5, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 224 81 66 88, [email protected], www.amicimiei.cz. Welcome friends to this Italian oasis in Old Town. Located in the heart of the city, but off the typical tourist path means consistent quality food and excellent service. Seafood lovers should swim in; fish is delivered fresh every other day. The focus is on traditional Italian favorites and here you can't choose wrong. The linguini with crawfish or the ravioli with artichokes both get high praise. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. 350-850kč. JB

Aromi K-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 78, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 222 71 32 22, www.aromi.cz. ‘Simplicity, tradition, passion' is the Anatevka-like motto of this upmarket Vinohrady's Italian, but there's no fiddling on the roof here. At Aromi there's a compact choice of excellent pasta, meat and fish dishes, complemented by an equally good wine list. As a result, the spacious L-shaped space holds happy locals and expats enjoying the moment. Reservations recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (95 - 395Kč). PAG

Giovanni E-3, Praha 1, Kožná 11, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 221 63 26 05. The bits of exposed rock, the walls and vaulted ceiling of this cosy restaurant are a respectable faux medieval. Luckily, the stars, vines and other painted flora won’t distract you from the menu, which is so extensive that we gave up halfway through it. If it’s Italian and you want it, chances are Giovanni’s got it and it’s good. The Balkan breakfast sounds appealing, but avoid the bruschetta at all costs. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (100 - 350Kč). A

Kogo E-3, Praha 1, Havelská 27, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 21 45 43, www.kogo.cz. Kogo is one of the best restaurants in Prague, for all number of reasons. Location, service, consistent high quality food, and ambience. The atmosphere is trendy and businesslike, full of movers and shakers enjoying good pasta, seafood and one of the best wine lists in the city. We love it. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. Also at F-3, Praha 1, Na příkopě 22 (Slovansky Dům). (120 - 250Kč). PTAUB

The Czech language is notoriously difficult for foreign tongues to get to grips with, not only for the unusual let-ters, but also because it is a heavily declined language. Your menu will hold various variations on the theme, but with the following words as a basis, you should be able to figure out what’s in your mouth.

bez masa without meatbiftek beefsteakbrambor potatodomácí home madedušené steamedgrilované grilledguláš goulash, the Czech staplehermelín brie, often pickled with garlic

and eaten with beerhovězí beefhranolky chips/french friesjehněčí lambjídelní lístek food menujídlo foodknedlíky dumplingskuře chickenlosos salmonna roštu roastednápojový lístek drinks menuniva blue cheeseoběd lunchřízek schnitzelovoce fruitpalačinky crepepečené bakedpivní sýr beer cheese, hard and served with

paprika and onion, eaten with beerplněné stuffedpřílohy side dishespolévka souppstruh troutryba fishrýže ricesekaná meatloaf; looks awful, tastes goodslanina baconsmažené friedsmažený sýr fried cheese, surprisingly good snídaně breakfastsvíčková beef in cream saucesýr cheesešpíz grilled and skeweredšunka hamtěstoviny pastautopenec a.k.a. drowned man,

pickled sausage, eaten with beeruzené smokedvařené boiledvečeře dinnervepřové porkvepřové koleno pork knee,

particularly carnivorousvinný lístek wine menuzelenina vegetables

The Czech Menu

H O T E L P A R I S * * * * *U Obecního domu 1, 110 00 Prague 1, Czech Republic

Phone: +420 222 195 195, fax: +420 224 225 [email protected], www.hotel-paris.cz

I N A R T N O U V E A U S T Y L E

Lunch or Dinnerat Art Nouveau Style?

Café de Paris is famous meeting point in town whenever it’s business breakfast of friendly

chat over coffee & delicious.

Brasserie Sarah Bernhardt gently and with attentive effortlessness ties French gourmet

cuisine and advanced Czech gastronomy in one outstanding experience.

Please let us invite you to a table and show how enjoyable dining with us might be!

Hotel Paris_Inzerce PIYP_60x185_press.indd 1 20.1.2009 8:53:04

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35RESTAURANTS


NEW

La Finestra in Cucina D-3, Praha 1, Platnéřská 13, MStaroměstská, tel. 222 32 53 25, [email protected], www.lafinestra.cz. Looking into this kitchen window (which is a loose translation of the restaurant's name) and you'll see a rustic atmosphere and people enjoying some good cooking. Risotto with truffles and the chocolate cake with truffles are both outstanding. And if it is meat you be wanting; a nice man will bring you a platter full of it, for you to select your own veal, beef or what have you. If you really want to watch the chefs at work, sit in the back. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 245-495 Kč.

La Rustica K-6, Praha 10, Donská 11, MNám. Míru, tel. (+420) 271 74 04 74. Homespun charm in this homely Ital-ian with homemade pasta. Garlic is a well-used ingredient, so dates should taste each other's dishes to spread the wealth,

and when you see plates piled high, you want to try everything the waiter walks by with anyway. Large floor to ceiling windows allow air and light to accompany your excellently priced and expertly presented salads, pasta, steaks and even crocodile (549Kč). Simple but tasty and cheap. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 500Kč). AS

Mirellie Praha 6, V.P. Čkalova 14, MDejvická, tel. (+420) 222 95 99 99, [email protected], www.mirel-lie.cz. Mirellie offers an extensive menu served in elegant surroundings. The interiors are smooth and classy; an excel-lent background for their good-sized wine list. Make your first course a pasta one; perhaps penne with fresh spinach and pesto. Move onto the meat course; beef with garlic and rosemary or baked lamb with truffle cream. Seafood and pizza also make the list. If you are in this Prague 6 neighbourhood; make it around a meal time for a visit to Mirellie. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 125 - 395Kč. A

Osteria De Clara Praha 10, Mexická 7, tel. (+420) 271 72 65 48, [email protected]. A not-so-good location on the Vinohrady/Vršovice border is an unfortunate fact of this nice Italian eatery. Small menu of basic hearty meals; stuffed zucchini, rigatoni ragu, pork fillet. All are well-prepared and a relaxed atmosphere makes this an excellent quiet spot. Let's hope it doesn't stay too quiet. QOpen 11:30 - 15:00, 18:00 23:30, Sat 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00-23:30. Closed Sun. 130-250Kč.

Japanese & Korean Hanabi Hibachi House J3, Praha 1, Petrská 11, MFlorenc, tel. (+420) 224 32 46 34, www.ihanabi.cz. DIY elegance at this new hidden Japanese joint. Lovely interiors boast warm colors enlivened with bonsai and bam-boo trees. Choose shabu shabu or sukiyaki and a selection of fresh, raw vegetables and meats will be brought to your table; which conveniently has it's own cooker. Prefer to watch someone else sweat over the stove? Sit at the bar and order teppan-yaki; literally grilled on an iron plate - and right in front of you. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. 460-1650kč. J

Korea House I-5, Praha 2, Sokolská 52, MI. P. Pavlova, tel. (+420) 224 26 62 46, www.koreahouse.cz. Paper lanterns illuminate the yellow walls that feature manly Asian men wrestling, shouting and smoking. The colourful interior is as chaotic as the menu which lists both Korean and Japanese specialities such as pibimbap and loads of sushi. A celebrity has left a saucy slogan next to his picture in mysterious characters, but it's all Korean to us. The food is good, but the servings could be bigger for all the cabbage one has to pay. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (300 - 500Kč). PTA

Made In Japan D-3, Praha 1, Křížovnická 4, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 608 74 96 50, www.ma-deinjapan.cz. The sushi bar by the Four Seasons captures the raw tourist with a wide and colourful menu including sashimi and nigri, roe and eel, while the sister restaurant provides tempura and teriyaki. A good combo. A buy two get one free happy hour runs from 15:00 - 18:00 at the sushi bar. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also at E-4, Rytířská 10, tel. 224 235 604. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (100 - 500Kč). AGPS

Man-na E-1, Praha 1, U Milosrdných 10, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 32 01 01. A new Korean restaurant serv-ing up spicy kimchi, bulgogi (beef BBQ) and other Korean specialities such as snails and octopus to stir fry and glazed pigs’ feet. If that doesn’t tempt you, perhaps their 500Kč/hr karaoke room might. Q Open 11:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00; 18:00 - 23:00 Sun. (200 - 350Kč). A

Mash Hana Badeniho 3, MHradčanská, tel. (+420) 224 32 40 34. Brand-spanking new sushi house right around the corner from the Hradčanská metro station. Warm feelings embrace you as you enter thanks to the welcoming smiles and delicious smells. Sushi is lovingly displayed amidst the cozy surroundings of wood, paper lanterns and fans. Definitely check it out. QOpen 11:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun.

Nagoya Praha 5, Stroupežnického 23, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 251 51 17 24, www.nagoya.cz. The first genuine Japanese restaurant in Prague. Nagoya comes complete with its authentic Japanese chef and food that has quickly become very popular with Prague foodies and visitors alike. Sushi, sashimi, tempura, noodles... all are here, and all are well done. Thoroughly recommended. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. (140 - 440Kč). AGP

Planet Sushi Praha 5, Nádražní 110, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 257 28 62 61. An oasis of Japanese calm among the urban bustle of Anděl/Smíchov's busy thoroughfare, al though the ambience is marred slightly by the proximity and shared bathrooms of the adjacent TGI Friday. Attentive staff and complete menu including yami rolls and desser ts provide an al ternative to the Japanese restaurants already in the area. Eat all you can on Sundays for 600Kč. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (200 - 750Kč). PAG

Sushi Bar G-5, Praha 5, Zborovská 49, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 603 24 48 82, www.sushi.cz. The freshest fish for the best sushi, this place does it - but for a price. Try the sushi menu for a selection sampler - the three piece Temaki Sushi set and nine piece Sashimi set was handsomely presented and deliciously refreshing. Superb service and intimate set-ting make this a continual favourite. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (250 - 500Kč). AP

Lebanese El Emir Náměstí Republiky 1, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+420) 225 771 886, www.palladiumpraha.cz. Not that we'd usually recommend dining at a shopping centre, but El Emir Lebanese restaurant is something to recommend. The décor was well-thought out; including curtained partitions to separate you from the throng of shoppers. All the Lebanese favs are here plus a variety of grilled meats and a decent selection of lamb and fish. Plus they have really nice sandwiches; so it's perfect for a lighter bite of not-mall food. Inside the Palladium mall. QOpen, Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. 100-370kč.

U Cedru Praha 6, Národní obrany 27, MDejvická, tel. (+420) 233 34 29 74. A long-timer with a popular-ity that is thoroughly justified. Well-presented, good value main dishes are available, while adventurous types can put themselves in the hands of the waiting staff who will make a selection of delicacies. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (200 - 450Kč). APU

Safir Obchodní centrum Nový Smíchov, Praha 5, Plzeňská 8, MAnděl. It's true, Safir is in a mall and it is self service, but for vine leaves, hummus, baba gannoush, tabouleh, fatoush, falafel and gyros, you cannot complain with the flavour or price. Hot meals such as grilled fish, chicken in Mediterranean veggies etc. are daily specials and for the real fast foodies, grab a sandwich. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (45 - 200Kč). PTU

Il Giardino Praha 5, Mozartova 1 (Mövenpick Hotel), MAnděl, tel. (+420) 257 15 42 62, www.movenpick-prague.com. Il Giardino is a hotel restaurant with a little flair, created mostly by the rooftop view over Prague, but also by their varied Mediterranean menu. Q Open 05:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00. (400 - 1,000Kč). PTAUG

Petřínské Terasy A-4, Praha 1, Seminářská zahrada 13, tel. (+420) 257 32 06 88, www.petrinsketerasy.cz. The restaurant with one of the best views of Prague sits halfway up Petřín Hill and is furnished in a Slovak country cottage kind of way. Cuisine is the somewhat traditional international and Czech variety, and live dulcimer music ac-companies dinner. Take the funicular to the Nebozizek stop to get here. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (160 - 280Kč). AIEB

TV Tower K-4, Praha 3, Mahlerovy sady, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 267 00 57 78, www.tower.cz. Prague’s tallest landmark seems equally loved and hated by residents and tourists. Whichever your decision, the view is tremendous and you can eat at the restaurant or café while contemplating the reality of vertigo. Prices are higher (boom, boom) than at other, more down-to-earth spots. You have to pay the 150/75Kč admission fee regardless, but you will get a 5% discount on your bill. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (180 - 350Kč). PTAL

Zlatá Praha E-1, Praha 1, nám. Curieových 43/5 (InterContinental Hotel), MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 296 63 09 14, http://www.zlatapraharestaurant.cz. From this vantage point you’ll be able to see a fair share of the city’s 100 spires. One the city’s most renowned restaurants, Golden Prague offers a changing menu of international and Czech nouvelle cuisine, business lunches for the more budget conscious gourmet, and a Sunday brunch accompanied by live jazz. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00 & 18:00-23:00. Open 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 23:30. (500 - 800Kč). PAEGB

Zvonice I-4, Praha 1, Jindřišská věž, MNám. Repub-liky, tel. (+420) 224 22 00 09, www.restaurantz-vonice.cz. If you’re looking for something different and don’t have a fear of heights, then head to the top three floors of this Gothic bell tower, complete with 15th century bell. Zvonice is decorated with giant oak beams and serves everything from snails, carpaccio, steak and fish to classic Czech dishes. Don’t miss the view from the gallery up top. Gorgeous and exceedingly posh. Lunch menu for 290Kč. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (400 - 750Kč). A

Food with a viewTVTVTOWERTOWER

The highestThe highestbuildingbuilding

ininPraguePrague

Fedération Des Grandes Tours Du MondeWorld Federation of Great Towers

PANORAMICOBSERVATION DECKOpen daily: 10.00 a.m. – 11.00 p.m.

PANORAMIC RESTAURANT Air-conditionedOpen daily: 11 a.m. – 11.30 p.m.Reservation tel: +420 242 418 778

PANORAMIC CAFÉ BAR Air-conditionedOpen daily: 10.30 a.m. – 11.30 p.m.

Metro „A“, Stop Jiřího z PoděbradAddress: Tower Praha a. s. Mahlerovy sady 1, Praha 3E-mail: [email protected]

inz TV TOWER Prague In Your Poc1 1 17.4.2008 16:34:03

36 RESTAURANTS


An Exquisite Indian & Mughlai Restaurant

with visual preparation of Tandoori Food!

Open daily 11-23, Týn 6, Prague 1 – Old Town, tel: 222 310 156, Mob: 725 107 059,

Fax: 224 248 558, [email protected], www.indianjewel.cz

An Exquisite blend of aromatic

continental and Czech cuisine

– in the heart of Prague!

Open daily 11-23

Jilská 7, Prague 1 – Old Town

tel: 221 089 888

fax: 224 248 558

[email protected]

www.savic.eu

Medieval Cartouche E-2, Praha 1, Bílkova 14, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 224 81 95 97, www.cartouche.cz. A dark dungeon of delights awaits you, full of big and busty spit-roasted or barbequed bones and live medieval music. Hale, hearty and heavy - the food and the furniture. Enjoy, but go hungry. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (300 - 600Kč). AI

U Císařů Praha 1, Loretánská 5, tel. (+420) 220 51 84 84, www.ucisaru.cz. Top-class medieval dining in the centre of cobbled, old world Prague. A beautiful Gothic wine cellar is at your disposal to really make you feel that your rightful place is down the road at the castle. The chefs have catered various state dinners, and the prices tend to illustrate this. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. (250 - 950Kč). PAILEB

U Sádlů I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská 2, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 81 38 74, www.usadlu.cz. Gargantuan medieval banqueting (with appropriate carnivorous leanings as well as great fish) served by buxom Hell's Angels in a cavernous remake of the set of Monty Python and the Holy Grail. Tankards of ale slapped down in front of you until you scream 'when!' and indulge your Ivanhoe fantasies. Book early or take a battering ram. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. Also at J-5, Praha 2, Balbínova 22. (150 - 300Kč). PAI

U Sedmi Švábů A-2, Praha 1, Jánský vršek 14, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 53 14 55, [email protected], www.svabove.cz. Yet more medieval she-nanigans in the requisite cellar space where fire-eating, dueling and even torture takes place as you dine. Traditional recipes employing only authentic 15th and 16th century ingredients means no tomatoes or potatoes. Fun, games and lots of meat. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 450Kč). AEGIP

Mexican & Tex-Mex Amigos J-5, Praha 2, Anny Letenské 16, MNám. Míru, tel. (+420) 222 25 05 94, www.amigos.cz. The menu is enormous, amusing, and with some topless shots to keep you turning the pages. The spice in the air and eyes bodes well for chilli-ed authenticity. Chimichanga is as tasty as it's fun to say, steaks are large and tender, vegetarian options abound, cocktails are cheap and delivery is avail-able. What more do you want? QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (50 - 160Kč). ES

Azteca B-4, Praha 1, Říční 9, tel. (+420) 257 32 73 89, www.azteca.cz. The menu offers the standard Mexican fare with drinks in the same vein: mojitos and margaritas, in fact, the bar does a fair business on its own, apart from the spicy food on offer in the restaurant. Excellent, spicy nachos. Although we're not too sure about the OTT neo-Alamo décor, Azteca offers good fajitas, enchiladas and quesadilla, along with over 25 types of tequila. Lunch menu 70Kč but there’s nothing Mexican on it. Good wine list, Staropramen for 25Kč and Corona 70Kč. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 380Kč). A

Cantina A-4, Praha 1, Újezd 38, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 31 71 73, www.restauracecantina.cz. A warm and atmospheric Mexican, serving Texan-sized portions of decent grub and small swimming pool sized margaritas that slip down far too easily. The fajitas are excellent, although we suggest you may want some extra salsa to add some zing. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (120 - 300Kč). AEB

Middle Eastern Babylon I-7, Pod Karlovem 12, MI. P. Pavlova, tel. (+420) 222 56 10 21, www.restaurace-babylon.cz. I t's Greek, i t's I talian, i t's steak, i t's fish. Babylon may be trying to appeal to all people, and they actually are doing a fairly good job of i t. One of the newer restaurants in Vinohrady, i ts out of the way location may prevent people from stumbling onto it; but i f you are staying/visiting around the Vinohrady or Nusle area you should definitely stop by. Main meal dish portions are very gener-ous, salads a bit on the smaller size. The Greek items are usually the best; however the quality and presentation are quite high for everything we've seen. Oh, and the staff is pleasant and accommodating. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. 120-370kč. PA

Dahab E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 82 73 75, www.dahab.cz. Escape the Baroque and step into this cool oasis of masterful mosa-ics, oriental carpets and sweet tobacco smoke bubbling from water pipes. Dishes run the gamut of Middle Eastern delights and drinks are concocted from recipes gathered from around the globe. Authenticity's evil side is witnessed in the squat toilet offered to horrified tourists (there are Western alternatives). QOpen 14:00 - 01:00. (65 - 330Kč). PTAEGS

Metropol Music Cafe I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 12, MFlorenc, tel. (+420) 775 322 895, [email protected], www.metropol-prague.com.. They bill themselves as an Oriental restaurant - the menu boasts a variety of yummy dishes like hummus, falafel, chicken masala and beef fillet. We are very impressed with Chef Sunny Passi - he's got a way with flavors. The restaurant is above a café and music club; but no loud music worries, the restaurant is glass enclosed. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. 110Kč-545Kč. JAE

Pizza Coloseum I-4, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 8, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 23 83 55, www.pizzacoloseum.cz. A pizza-maker slaving away in front of the flames of a wood-burning oven is the only spectacle you'll witness at this coliseum. Sample excellent pastas and pizzas made with real mozzarella in a rustic setting. Try the Calabrese, it's what Yanks call a pepperoni pie. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. Also at F-3, Vodičkova 32. (100 - 200Kč). PAB

Giallo Rosa F-3, Praha 1, Jakubská 2, MNám. Repub-liky, tel. (+420) 604 89 89 89. This small take-away place decked out in football scarves serves the closest thing to a New York-style pizza that we’ve seen in Prague. What’s more amazing is that it also provides as much oregano and spicy oil as you need, gratis. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Fri 11:30 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (From 25Kč/slice). AGS

Gusto J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 83, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 222 21 13 16, www.gusto.cz. A long empty primo location on Vinohradska has been brightly filled by this massive pizza place, where the relatively high prices are testament to the rent. Lunch specials don’t inspire, but the pizzas are well topped. Pasta purports to be fresh… A cool kids spot at the back will keep them en-tertained for hours, and if you’re looking for a place to have a private party, the cellar is the place. Nothing to write home about, but popular nonetheless. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (90 - 380Kč). ST

38 RESTAURANTS


Kmotra H-5, Praha 1, V Jirchářích 12, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 224 93 41 00, www.kmotra.cz. The Godmother gathers extensive broods around her ankles as she hands down the old family recipe for making great pizzas from a wood-burning oven. Expect to jostle for a place with the other waifs and strays in need of the loving care that is meted out here. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Also at Praha 5, Jindřicha Plachty 27. Open 11:00-24:00. (100 - 200Kč). PAS

Pizza Nuova Praha 1, Revoluční 1, MNám. Repub-liky, tel. (+420) 221 80 33 08, www.ambi.cz. The Ambiente group turn their talented hands to this eat all you can antipasti and/or pizza & pasta restaurant. Well planned location adjacent to the massive shopping centre, the Palladium, set to open late 2007. A huge restaurant with trestle type seating, Ambiente's trademark flair and an extensive Italian and Czech wine list. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. APT

Rugantino E-2, Praha 1, Dušní 4, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 81 72, www.rugantino.cz. Great pizzas and quick service make this a popular eatery with the lunch-time office crowd. Classic Italian would be preferable to the modern décor, but that's just our opinion. On weekends the place is much more laid-back. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (100 - 250Kč). PAUG

Seafood Reykjavík D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 20, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 22 12 18, www.reykjavik.cz. A plush, dark wooden interior sets the scene for you to experience some of the best seafood available in Prague. We can recommend the 'fruit of the sea' soup or the tenderloin of tuna. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (250 - 600Kč). ABEPT

Rybí trh E-2, Praha 1, Týnský dvůr 5, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 224 89 54 47, www.rybitrh.cz. Without a doubt, this restaurant is a fish-lover's paradise. With a choice from live or freshly imported fish, one can swim through this menu with delight knowing whatever is chosen will truly satisfy. Chef Pavel Mares works his magic on the Caribbean Lobster, fresh from the aquarium in any style. St. Jacob's scallops is a speciality only to be savoured, and the imperial mussels truly deserve their name. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (190 - 890Kč). AG

Thai Modrý zub F-4, Praha 1, Jindřišská 5, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 222 21 26 22, www.modryzub.com. The Blue Tooth looks like an Ikea café until you notice the bowls of spicy noodles and curry being served by cheerful waitresses and devoured by happy punters. This noodle bar takes Thai fast food to a higher level with delicious curries, made to order glass, rice and yellow noodle dishes, sushi, maki, soups and salads. Excellent service, lovely spot, NYC carton take out boxes. Oh, and hot means hot. Blue is a theme: sister venues are similarly cool Ultramarin and Blue Light. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00. Thu, Fri & Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (60 - 180Kč). TS

NOI A4, Praha 1, Újezd 19, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 31 14 11, [email protected], www.noirestau-rant.cz. A serene Thai restaurant, and thank goodness for that. Quality Thai food is often hard to find here, but NOI brings authentic Thai chefs to prepare its tom yam koong, khao pad koong and khao pad kai. Lovely staff and a Zen interior complete the experience. QOpen 9am - midnight. 150-290kč. PAGBXS

NEW

SaSaZu K-1, Praha 7, Bubenské nábřeží 306, MVl-tavská, tel. 284 09 74 44, [email protected], www.sasazu.com. Hip and stylish new Thai/Asian restaurant in the always emerging Holešovice district. The wow factor of the décor hasn't yet transferred to the menu or service; which right now we'll generously put down to growing pains. Current notables include the Thai papaya salad; Ga curry, SaSa crispy roll and the red beef curry. Maybe skip dinner and just hit the other half of the reconstructed warehouse building; which is a dance club. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. 110-295 Kč. AEK

NEW

Sawadi Praha 10, Kodaňská, MNám Míru, tel. 241 74 28 88, [email protected]. No one is going to rave about the Thai food in Prague; however Sawadi is a tasty addition. Here you'll get some spicy flavor lacking at many other Thai restau-rants; anything chili-based is worth ordering if you need some heating up. Tom Yam Gung soup; Sen Lek pad Thai and the “fire pot” entrees are all recommended. Look carefully for the entrance and don't expect a lush dining room. But do enjoy what will be a delicious meal. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 140-230 Kč.

Siam Orchid I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 21, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 31 94 10, www.siamorchid.cz. Evocative aromas entice to this hidden first floor restaurant. While the authenticity of the place is not added to by the décor, the Thai massage next door (600Kč/hr), Singha beer and mention of farangs on the menu point to a real Thai dining experience. And the food doesn’t disappoint. A true and delicious slice of Siam in a very Czech courtyard. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (120 - 200Kč). B

Vegetarian Beas F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 19, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 608 03 57 27, www.beas-dhaba.cz. Original Indian metal trays hold your chosen veggie menu - small or large curry meal, noodles, parantha menu, the massive thali and more. Desserts and lassi are also available and tables have jugs of free water to quench the small fires the somewhat spicy dishes produce. Excellent and deservedly popular. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. (70 - 130Kč). PGBS

Country Life E-3, Praha 1, Melantrichova 15, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 21 33 66, www.countrylife.cz. From humble beginnings as a take-away bar, this place is packed at lunchtimes with long queues at the caféteria-style counter. That's because even non-vegetarians are impressed by the salads, pizza and soups. QOpen 09:00 - 20:30, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:30. Closed Sat. Also at H-4, Jungmannova 1. (75 - 150Kč). GPTU

Maitrea E-2, Praha 1, Týnská 6, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 221 71 16 31, [email protected], www.maitrea-restaurant.cz. Maitrea is the sister vegetarian restau-rant to the widely popular Lehka Hlava. Located in Old Town, they currently have a rather small menu, but an excellent lunch special consisting of a rotating soup, main and water for 105 Kč. Their décor is a bit tamer than their wilder sister, but the same fresh quality and inventiveness is here. The couscous with broccoli and fennel is fabulous, as is the baked vegetables with pesto. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. 100-140 Kč.

Veg Food Praha 2, Londýnská 35, MIP Pavlova, tel. (+420) 222 51 50 06/(+420) 721 25 52 53, [email protected], www.vegfood.cz. A new and welcome non-meat addition to the pork-heavy dining scene. Veg Food is fairly Asian, with many soy and tofu meat alternatives. The flavors are mild, but you will taste them; vegetables are fresh and the staff is welcoming. Seek it out, even carnivores will be pleased. QOpen 10:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 21:30.

Grand hotel Praha is the only hotel offering a magical view of a unique historical sight, The Old Town AstronomicalClock, from its windows.

Grand hotel Praha presents high standards of comfort and luxuriously furnished rooms.

Grand cafe s cakes will warm your heart and make everyoccasion special.

We want to do everything possible to make your visit toGrand cafe Praha the best it can be.

Reception: +420 221 632 556 (557)Hotline: +420 606 600 583Fax: +420 221 632 558e-mail: [email protected]

Telefon: +420 221 632 520 (522)Fax: +420 221 632 521e-mail: [email protected]

www.grandhotelpraha.cz Accommodation opposite the Astronomical clock

GRAND hotel PRAHAStaroměstské náměstí 22110 00 Praha 1

GRAND café PRAHAStaroměstské náměstí 22110 00 Praha 1

PRAHAcaféGRANDwww.grandcafe.cz

hotelGRAND

PRAHA

40 CAFÉS


41CAFÉS


Au Gourmand E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 10, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 32 90 60. Small cafe with superior pastries, savouries and tortes plus many more items to slimline your wallet and expand your waistline, but, as Kenny Everett said, it is done “in the best possible taste.” Despite Prague’s growing café culture, baked items have always remained below par con-sidering historical links and geographical proximity to Vienna and Au Gourmand makes a lovely change. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 8:30 - 19:00, Sun 9:00 - 19:00. Also at Au Gourmand Rive Gauche, C-2, Praha 1, U lužického semináře 23, tel. 257 53 24 34.

Café Café E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 10, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 21 05 97, www.cafe-cafe.cz. Slap bang in the middle of tourist central, but far cooler than many cafés in the area. Café Café is a well-known gay hangout, but it also attracts hetero hipsters who look the look, talk the talk and wear the ware. Coffee, cocktails, large salads and the Mediterranean menu provide lubrication and sustenance. Breakfast served everyday until 12:30. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (150 - 350Kč). AB

Café Imperial I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 15, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 246 01 14 40. After a long facelift, the landmark Imperial has reopened with the Art Nouveau tiles and wood carvings still in situ within the high ceiling-ed rooms. The stale donuts have sadly not reappeared but the beautiful and historic space is well worth visiting for breakfast, a sandwich or meal (chef Zdeněk Pohlreich hails from the Radisson SAS Alcron and Marriott), although reviews have been hit and miss. A decent cocktail list will keep you here late. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (130 - 400Kč). PA

Café Jungmann E-4, Jungmannovo nám. 7, Prague 1, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 222 22 01 61. A dark pub has been transformed into this Ikea-styled café well-located to attract tired shoppers and tourists from Wenceslas Sq. Neutral tones and MTV beats on the plasma screens join sandwiches, sal-ads, crepes and a few steak/fish mains in their tasty menu. Soups are delicious if tepid and the daily special is excellent value. New world wines attract the interest when .3 of Pilsner Urquell is 50Kč. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (80 - 250Kč). AW

Café Louvre D-4, Praha 1, Národní 22, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 224 93 09 49, www.cafelouvre.cz. In true French style, this historic café is for anything but bourgeois tastes. Café Louvre is a true slice of Czech life where a great breakfast is served that one can enjoy with an international newspaper. Whether you want to play a game of pool in the swank billiard hall or indulge in some fresh pastries over coffee, this is the perfect place to have a great café experience. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:30. (100 - 500Kč). PTAG

Café Savoy G-5, Praha 5, Vítězná 5, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 257 31 15 62, www.ambi.cz. A fabulously restored grand café dating back to 1893 with a particularly stunning neo-Renaissance ceiling. Sit under the chandeliers to order food from the café menu with traditional Czech dishes or from the more elaborate French gourmet menu. Don’t skip the pastries and cakes that are made on the premises though. Great for a lazy breakfast with a newspaper too. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:30. (140 - 300Kč). AP

Cigars and Coffee I-4, Praha 1, Vodíčkova 39, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 94 91 33, www.coffeeandcigars.cz. Orange theme, white leather, Očko on TVs, cinematic images of the eponymous objects (and others beginning with a C) line this ubercool café near Cinema Světozor. The expanse of glass leads to perfect people watching, but the media types inside don’t want to do the watching. Breakfast, cakes, baguettes, salads, pasta and even steaks are small and tasty but slightly overpriced (100 - 240Kč). But if you want cool, you’ve got to be wiling to pay for it. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. W

Coff e e Fel lows E -2, Praha 1, D louhá 20, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 02 00, www.coffee-fellows.cz. Famous for their pastries, tea, coffee and syrups. Sandwiches, bagels, cookies etc. all vie for your attention but try the caramel slice for a taste of heaven with some toffee mixed in. Seating is high and low, the few armchairs have their backs to the room and the banquette seating proves a tad uncomfortable. There is little privacy too, but it is tasty. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PABW

C o f f e e h e a v e n E - 1 , P r a h a 1 , Pa ř í ž s k á 1 , MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 19 67, www.coffeeheaven.cz. While Starbucks is snoozing in Seattle, a cunning Polish franchise outfit has sneaked a large number albeit somewhat faceless cafés into Prague. The coffee comes in paper cups and ranges from 32Kč for an espresso to 84Kc for the large white chocolate mocha. The sandwiches, panini and cakes are tasty and reasonably priced, and there’s a 120Kč breakfast offer. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00. Also at E-4, Praha 1, Na příkopě 3, Palác Flóra & I-4, pasáž Rokoko, Praha 1, Václavské nám., tel. 224 2 4 70 61. PAGS

Cukrkávalimonáda B-2, Praha 1, Lázeňská 7, tel. (+420) 257 53 06 28. A small café which adopts an evening menu at 18:00 and produces delicious meals such as chicken breast with prosciutto and mozzarella on balsamic vinegar and fresh baby spinach to go with some superb (but spendy) new world wines. Daytime offerings are just as tasty from the breakfast menu to pancakes, sandwiches and home-made pasta. As relaxed as the beautifully tranquil square it is located on. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. (80 - 350Kč). PG

DISK Café D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 26, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 221 11 10 65. A superior café on the Royal Way belies its sleek design by actually being the café for the DISK Theatre, the place of study for the Czech Academy of Performing Arts (DAMU). Join wannabe thesps, stage hands and directors for well-priced (especially when you consider the location) sandwiches, salads and calorie-laden but superb desserts. A full bar is of course available too - Staropramen is 40Kč. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (85 - 115Kč).

Ebel E-3, Praha 1, Týn 2, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 89 57 88, www.ebelcoffee.cz. Some of the best cof-fee in town, sandwiches and salads, plus excellent smoothies and cheesecake to die for. Wooden warmth inside beckons you in the winter months, and in the evenings you’ll be ser-enaded by some good jazz from Ungelt in the basement. Beware of wandering stag parties from Legends across the square. Check out their shop almost next door. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (60 - 160Kč). Also at D-2, Karprová 11, open 08:00 - 19:00; D-3, Řetězová 9, open 08:00 - 20:00. TAB

Espressamente Illy I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 8 (Prague Marriott Hotel), MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 881 258, www.marriottprague.com. Open for breakfast or lunch; the new Espressamente Illy promises authentic Italian Espresso and cappuccino. Located in the Prague Marriott Hotel, it has a street entrance on V Celnici. Offering 20 kinds of Illy coffee for your morning meetings, plus pastries and light snacks; it’s a quiet place in a busy neighbourhood.

Face Cafe F-2, Náměstí Republiky 1, MNáměstí Repub-liky. The place to show your face. Quite an upscale café for a mall, but with a coffee, wine and cocktail list as long as theirs, it’s a worthwhile trip. They’ve taken the theme seriously; the menu is framed and the walls are covered with head shots. Sit inside along the window and stare at the faces shopping below. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.

Globe H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 6, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 224 93 42 03, www.globebookstore.cz. The Globe provides a sophisticated atmosphere to meet other enlightened souls. Darker walls indicate an edgier characterisation to this bastion of expat life which had become a tad stuffy in its middle age. The good food, books (new and second-hand) and internet café remain but now we also have Gambrinus on tap as well as live music and events spicing things up. QOpen 9:30 - 01:00. (40 - 120Kč). AUE

Grand Café Praha E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 22, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 221 63 25 22, www.grandcafe.cz. The Grand Café produces cakes, tortes and other sweet delicacies for clock-watchers on Old Town Square and for visiting dignitaries at the castle. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. (95 - 490Kč). A

Grand Café Orient F-3, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 19, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 22 42 40, www.grandcafeorient.cz. The first floor of the Cubist House of the Black Madonna is home to a truly unique Cubist-style café that was reconstructed from photographs to match the one that was here from 1911 until the 1920s. Even café-capital Vienna doesn’t have one of these. The simple menu lists pancakes, sandwiches and some good coffee. Try to get a seat on the balcony overlooking Celetná street. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. AP

Karlín London J-3, Praha 8, Sokolovská 32, MFlorenc. This café serves up excellent cakes, pancakes and ice cream with cheblíčký being the only savoury offerings. The oddity here is the London murals, the faux double-decker bus, plus Winston Churchill and the Queen watching you sip your coffee, while the bathroom entrance is through the red phone box. Q (40 - 150Kč).

Káva Káva Káva G-6, Praha 5, Lidická 42, MAnděl, www.kava-coffee.cz. The future of the café for Prague with internet in the back (free 15 minutes with purchase), Wi-Fi all over and superlative staff. Czech or English, i t matters not for these always happy-to-serve girls. Smoothies and café frappés along with cheap Czech Mex standards make up the menu after the more usual cakes and bagels. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Fri 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. Also at (E-4), Národní 31. (40 - 250Kč). W

Kavárna Obecní Dům Náměstí Republiky 5, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 00 27 63, [email protected], www.vysehrad2000.cz. Come for the atmosphere as well as the treats. This Art Nouveau café on the ground floor of Obecní Dům is one of the most elegant in town. You’ll be treated to nice service amidst beautiful surroundings, and we dare you to turn your head when they start wheeling the cake cart around. A breakfast menu, plus sandwiches and salads make this a good break point no matter what time of day. QOpen 7:30 - 23:00. 90-470Kč. JAEB

Kavárna Pavilon J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 50, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 222 09 72 01, www.ambi.cz. The Ambiente group are trying to make a go of the café space in Vinohrady’s beautiful though hardly successful old market space. Cafés and shops have come and gone, but Ambiente’s excellent standards could be the winning combination. A wide range of breakfast (e.g. soft boiled eggs in a cup), pastries and small meals to accompany Wi-Fi and newspapers. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. W

Ouky Douky Praha 7, Janovského 14, MVltavská, tel. (+420) 266 71 15 31, www.oukydouky.cz. Holesovice’s happiest corner is somewhat like an expat hangout minus the expats – it’s up to you to decide if that’s a good or bad thing. The cosy bar sells good coffee and simple meals, sells books (mostly Czech), has internet at 90Kč/hr and occasion-ally throws a party. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.

Shakespeare & Sons Praha 10, Krymská 12, tel. (+420) 271 74 08 39, www.shakes.cz. Thousands of handpicked new and used English titles, earnest poetry and prose readings and performance, newspapers, chess and backgammon, Bernard beer, some funky original art and mosaics, plus coffee, tea and cakes. Tram N°4, 22 or 23 to the Krymská stop. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Also at C-2, U lužického semináře 10. E

Slavia C-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 1, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 224 21 84 93. Slavia is a throwback to days gone by with a beautiful art deco interior and photos of celebrity patrons. Its location can’t be beaten, with large windows open to Národní Divadlo and the Vltava. Service is fine, but you can sit here for quite a while without purchasing much from the very well-priced menu. Good coffee, tasty meals, snacks and pastries are all available. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (45 - 320Kč). PAU

Yessi Café I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 21 25 85, www.yessicafe.cz. From the makers of Pravda, Hot and Bellevue comes a casual café for the masses. Purple and green dominate the upholstered sofas and stools. Smoothies and juices are sadly pre-made, sandwiches too for the lunch rush but you can also build your own. Italian water ups the price, but the veggie and hummos sandwich (99Kč) is superb. Alcohol and Illy coffee also served. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 9:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. PBS

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CZECH SPASCZECH SPAS

DDD

D DDLÁZN LIBVERDALÁZN LIBVERDA

Lázně LibverdaBad Liebwerda

Liberec

České Budějovice

PRAHA

LÁZNĚ LIBVERDA, a.s. č.p. 82463 62 Hejnice

tel.: 482 368 100–102mobil: 731 957 326

[email protected]

w w w. l a z n e - l i bve rd a . c zw w w. l a z n e - l i bve rd a . c z

CENTER OF SPAS, RELAXATION AND SPORT

Special off er – 6900 CZK for 2 persons 8 day stay including half board and 4 procedures

We also off er:• Week and weekend stays

• Hotel accommodation

• Wellness centre: full packs in banana leaves,

honey and chocolate packs…

• Gift packages for your closest friends

Relaxing all over the countryTaking to the waters for healing and relaxation has a long history in the Czech Republic. Springs of mineral and thermal water can found in various parts of the country. Most famous is the so-called spa triangle in west Bohemia; comprised of the cities of Karlovy Vary, Františkovy Lázně and Mariánské Lázně. Located an easy train ride from Prague; the region makes an excellent extension to your Prague visit.

Historically, Czech spas have more of a healing reputation over a relaxing one. People with a variety of ailments would spend a week or two at a spa and under the supervision of a doctor, follow a specific regiment that included lots of bathing and drinking of the local water. Different spas are known for specializing in various diseases; Lázně Libverda in the Jizera Mountains for example is focused on treating heart and blood circulation diseases. Czech health insurance used to cover these stays; but not so much anymore. Spas are revamping their programs a bit to add wellness stays in the hopes of attracting people looking for relaxation weekends. When researching a weekend at a Czech spa, always look for their wellness offerings and be sure to ask specific questions about what a particular treatment entails.

From west to east you’ll find a plethora of interesting treatments, historic buildings and fun towns. Many of the larger spa towns have a variety of tourism offerings and, as most are located near mountains, hiking and biking in the summer and skiing in the winter are all distinct possibilities.

Karlovy Vary is the most well-known and visited of all the country’s spa towns. The city dates back to King Charles’ IV time when, as the story goes, he and his entourage accidently stumbled upon a thermal spring. He proclaimed it had curative powers and, in true King Charles style, had a town built around the spring. Fast forward a bunch of years and you can easily see walking through town the influence Art Nouveau had on 19th century architects. The Mill Colonnade, Emperor’s Baths and the Thermal Spring Colonnade were built then. At the beginning of the 20th century, Karlovy Vary was one of the most popular spa cities in Europe. Two world wars and Communism

saw a decline in its fortunes, with the state regulating all facilities and tourists primarily limited to Russians. You’ll still see a heavy Russian influence in the architecture and language translations. Here, the spa treatments are best for those with digestive, motor system or metabolic disorders. Richmond Hotel is a stunning property located on the outskirts of Karlovy Vary for a more peaceful stay. Those looking for relaxation can stroll through the hotel’s English-style park, complete with a Japanese garden for meditation. The hotel offers a variety of relaxation programmes, including anti-ageing treatments, beauty weeks and relaxing days.

There are 20 springs in Františkovy Lázně used for both bathing and drinking. The mineral water is alkaline and salty; and can have a strong laxative effect. Different springs produce different results; Church Spring water is known to help mild digestive problems while the water from Ferrous Spring is rich in iron and good for exhaustion and anaemia. The city has a good reputation; both Ludwig van Beethoven and Johann Strauss stayed here. Active types wil l appreciate the relatively new Aquaforum. Designed in a Roman bath setting, there are four indoor and three outdoor swimming pools, sauna, slides and other attractions.

Mariánské Lázně is over flowing with springs: 40 in the city and 60 more in the surrounding countryside. Each spring is quite particular, however all have very high carbon dioxide levels and most are also iron rich. The most famous spring is the Křížový, streaming out in the main colonnade below Masarykova Street. It’s very salty and may have a laxative effect. In the pavilion of the courtyard of the Central Bath, you’ll see a spring of

a dif ferent sort. This is a so-called dry spring; basically pockets of carbon dioxide. The gas is captured and used in a variety of balneology treatments. I f you want some true cures in the area, stay at LS Royal Mariánské Lázně. Here you’ll find beauti ful buildings in a forested area, still close to the main colonnade. Either the wellness programme or the anti-stress programme should have you leaving better than when you arrived.

In the Krkonoše foothills you’ll find nestled the charming town of Lázně Bělohrad, famous for its hot curative peat. Surrounded by the Bažantnice nature park you are sure to find peace and relaxation; not to mention some top-quality cures at Anenské slatinné lázně.

Teplice in north Bohemia is the oldest spa in the Czech Republic, and one of the oldest in Europe. Legend has it that the hot springs here were accidently discovered by a farmer back in 762. Archaeological finds though date people in the region to about the 11th century. The name i tsel f is derived from the warm springs; teply means hot in Czech. Natural mineral water at a temperature of 39 Celsius is the primary healing treatment here; used for locomotion, nervous and psychological disorders.

Services provided by the Information Centre of

Karlovy Vary Information Centre of Karlovy Vary

44


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CZECH SPASCZECH SPAS

Parkhotel RichmondKK A R L O V Y V A R Y

e Comprehensive Spa Treatment e Beauty Week e Antistress Programme e Golf Week e.t.c. e Festive lounge with a seating capacity of 200 seats e Lounges e Beauty parlour e Café with a summer terrace e Corrective dermatology e Swimming pool, sauna

Richmond, a.s., Slovenská 567/3, 360 01 Karlovy Vary, Czech RepublicTel.: +420 353 177 505, Fax: +420 353 222 169, [email protected]

Aquaforum Františkovy LázněUlice 5. května 19351 01 Františkovy LázněTel: +420 354 206 500 [email protected] info: www.frantiskovylazne.cz

Bertiny lázně TřeboňTylova 1 379 15 TřeboňTel: 384 754 111 Fax: 384 754 [email protected]

Lázně Bechyně 391 65 Bechyně č. 202 Tel: 381 476 100Fax: 381 213 [email protected] www.laznebechyne.cz

Lázně Libverda463 62 Hejnice Tel: +420 482 368 111Fax: +420 482 368 [email protected] info: www.laznelibverda.cz

Lázně Malvazinky PrahaPraha 5, U Malvazinky 5Tel: +420 251 116 [email protected]

LS Royal Mariánské LázněLesní 345353 01 Mariánské LázněTel: + 420 354 625 446 Fax: + 420 354 622 [email protected]ánské Lázně: www.marianskelazne.czTeplice: www.teplice.cz

Richmond Park HotelSlovenská 3360 01 Karlovy Vary Tel: +420 353 177 111Fax: +420 353 222 [email protected] info: http: www.karlovyvary.cz

In South Bohemia, you’ll find the lovely spa and fish town of Třeboň. Probably more famous for its carp ponds (a good portion of the traditional Czech Christmas dinner of carp comes from this region), Bertiny lázně is famous for its peat baths. The locally gathered peat is excellent for injured bones, muscles and joints. Located just outside the city’s main square, Bertiny is a lovely place to relax and rejuvenate.

Bechyně is located south of Prague along the Lužnice River. The city is ceramics central and charming while the spa is ultra modern. Arthritis suffers and those with other joint or muscle problems will appreciate the skilled and dedicated hands working here. Weight loss and beauty stays can also be had.

Heading farther east and north, Lázně Libverda is perfectly situated for those wanting to have active days and restful nights. Lots of marked hiking and biking trails criss-cross the region; and a soak in the therapeutic pool filled with the local mineral water will soothe those aching muscles. A mineral analysis of the water done in the late 1700s found it to have such healing properties that is was bottled and shipped to Prague under the brand name Chabeso. Unlike most other medicinal drinks in the Czech Republic, this one was non-alcoholic and flavoured with fruit juice.

Czech SpasAnenské slatinné lázněSpa 165507 81 Lázně BělohradTel: +420 493 767 111Fax: +420 493 767 [email protected]

© Bobak Ha'Eri, wikipedia.org

Dear readers,Our future guests,

LET ME INTRODUCE you to a unique Water Park project:

We have succeeded in building an incredible Water World

which will captivate both you and your children with its wide

range of enchanting attractions. With water slides, water

chutes, a wave pool, a Jacuzzi, a diving tube, saunas, massage

parlours, a fi tness centre, and more, there really is something her

e for everyone. You can have a good frolic in the Water World,

try up to 11 treatments in the Sauna World, get pampered at

the Spa or stretch your legs in the Fitness Centre. You will

be amazed by the choice we off er. Aquapalace also houses

shops and restaurants. We are confi dent that you will have

a great time with us and that you´ll come back again and

again. Aquapalace is an adventure for the entire family!

THE RESORT´S DIVERSE NEIGHBORHOOD off ers the perfect

symbiosis of services and facilities available to our guests. Golf

enthusiasts will surely appreciate the proximity of Golf Resort

Konopiste. Průhonice´s castle and park is, on the other hand, an

ideal place for those who prefer pleasant walks.

Clients who prefer shopping to nature will appreciate the

nearby shopping area Průhonice-Čestlice.

Whatever your needs, interests or ideas, you have found

a place which is an ideal base for any of them. Indulge

yourself in real luxury…

We are looking forward to seeing you!

Pavel Sehnal

SPG Financial Group CEO

www.aquapalace.czwww.aquapalace.cz

Aquapalace Praha, Pražská street 138, Commercial Zone Průhonice - Čestlice, D1 take Exit 6

Information: tel.: +420 271 104 111, email: [email protected]

Enjoy fun Enjoy fun

in the biggest Aquapark in the biggest Aquapark

in the Czech Republicin the Czech Republic

inzerce_4.indd 3 25.5.2009 17:28:37

Brandýs nad Orlicí

Rehabilitative Institute

boasts a 110-year-old

tradition of providing spa and

rehabilitative cures. It’s located

in a small town in the eastern

part of the Czech Republic

near the Orlické Mountains.

Known all over the country; the Institute has 170 beds including some

luxurious barrier free rooms. Currently, rehabilitation services are

available for patients with organ diseases as well as back problems

and neurological issues. An individual care plan is designed for each

patient. The Rehabilitative Institute also offers reconditioning and

relaxation stays. For more information, please visit our website.

Rehabilitační ÚstavBrandýs nad Orlicí

Lázeňská 58

Brandýs nad Orlicí

tel. 465 544 206-7

www.rehabilitacniustav.cz

Carlsbadweek … … a week of travel fi lms and spa therapy

In just a month, Karlovy Vary will be

hosting another festival. From 7 to 11

October the 4th annual Carlsbadweek

will take place, sponsored by Minister

for Regional Development, Ing. Rostislav

Vondruška, including the oldest festival of

tourism-themed fi lms, TOURFILM.

Th is year, the Czech Centre for Tourism – CzechTourism has prepared a

number of things a little bit diff erently for you – the citizens of Karlovy

Vary and surroundings. We have tried to get our activities to be closer to

you – TOURFILM 2009 will take place for the most part in the Th ermal

Hotel and the talks with travellers and fi lms will be moved to the evening

so that those who work can make them too, Competitions for amateur

cameramen have also been prepared in conjunction with Czech Television.

Th e festival’s main star will be Ian Wright – one of the best television

presenters – travellers in the world, star of the British programme Globe

trekker (originally the programme was named Lonely Planet).

Compete with us in TOURFILM, you can win valuable prizes. What do you have to do?• cut out the coupon which you can fi nd in this edition of Radniční listy

• come on 8 October to the Day with Czech Television in the Th ermal Hotel

• watch the fi lms and accompanying programme

• take part in the lot-drawing competition

Another part of Carlsbadweek is the Spa festival, where you will get

the chance to familiarise yourself with the off ers of spa companies

during a presentation in the Varyáda shopping centre on 10 October 2009.

Th e event is sure to attract many visitors because you can even win a stay

in a spa. All you need to do is fi ll in the draw ticket which you can fi nd in

this edition of Radniční listy, drop it into the box in the Varyáda shopping

centre and wait to see if you’ve won when the winning tickets are drawn

by the spa companies.

For gastronomy lovers, the grape harvesting festival at Loket castle on 10 – 11

October will include a gastronomy town with the specialities of our Bavarian

neighbours to complement the traditional grape harvesting festival.

If you’re interested in cultural monuments and their fates, you will surely

be interested in the conference on the subject of ‘the importance of the

cultural and natural heritage of spa towns in maintaining and providing

the sustainable growth of balneotherapy and the tourist industry’. Th is will

bring advantage to spa towns aft er entry onto the

UNESCO World Heritage List. Th is conference

will take place on 9 October in Karlovy Vary. You

must register in advance for this conference – more

information available at www.kr-karlovarsky.cz.

All further information can be found at the project

website www.karlovarskytyden.cz, and if you don’t fi nd

your question answered here, contact us by email at

[email protected], or call 353 502 128.

What can you win?Th e fi rst prize is 10 000 CZK in cash

Th e second prize is 5 000 CZK in cash

Th e third prize is publicity materials from ČCCR – Czech Tourism

53


CZECH SPAS

Spas out EastThe beautiful vineyards of South Moravia can offer you more than one form of relaxation. Not to be left out of the spa craze, Lázně Hodonín was the first spa in the region. Water with a high iodine content is their trademark and the spa offers lots of cultural programming along with its therapies.

In Moravia you can find Luhačovice. This small spa town surrounded by forest, is one of the foremost balneology spas in the Czech Republic. Individual treatments, plus relaxation stays are a complement to the spa’s primary treatment of respiratory diseases. The spa is a beautiful combination of nature and architecture; take your time here. While in Luhačovice, you won’t be at a loss for things to do in the area. The cities of Kroměříž and Zlín will provide lots of entertainment.

Local cold springs will greet you in Jeseník, northern Moravia. In 1820, Vincent Priessnitz, the spa’s founder, set-up a program based on the effects of cold spring water. He combined water treatments with climate-therapy and diet. Respiratory and nervous system diseases are helped along here and as you are so close to the Jeseníky Mountains, you’ll have lots of outdoor distractions in both summer and winter.

ŠtramberkA spa in the picturesque Moravian town of Štramberk? It’s surprising, even for those who already know about the town. But 150 years ago, it was well-known. A magazine article from 1862 mentioned Štramberk’s spa and what the local’s called “kúpele” as a “healthy milk spa with a special cure using sheep’s whey.”Štramberk is going back to this tradition with the opening of Relax Spa in Beskydy. Also opening is the opportunity to soak

Spa hotel VILA VALAŠKA in LuhačoviceIndividual approach and above standard servicesThe cultural heritage Vila Valaška is a work of Dušan Jurkovič, a distinguished Slovak architect. The Villa was built in the folk-secession style in 1907 and belongs to the most signifi cant buildings in Luhačovice. In June 2009, this spa hotel Vila Valaška re-opened after a complete and intensive reconstruction.

The Vila Valaška has 9 luxury suites, a restaurant and a wellness oasis. Villa off ers individual approach and above-standard services for the most demanding spa guests. Features of Jurkovič‘s architecture can be seen at each step. The modern white furniture contrasts beautifully with the bright blue windows or red walls.You will certainly relax and draw fresh energy in the intimate wellness centre. You can enjoy various baths, relaxation massages as well as exceptional light therapy or music therapy. Nursing and medical staff are available in the neighbouring Vila Antoaneta, where an aqua relaxation centre with a whirlpool, sauna and steam bath is situated.In the restaurant, the chef will prepare your meal “Á la carte” or exactly according to your taste. The off er includes a variety of diets and you have a possibility to consult the nutritional therapist. Floor service will be provided by your request and in summer, you can enjoy your breakfast on the terrace.

This Villa belongs to the portfolio of ROYAL SPA - the private chain of spa and wellness hotels in the Czech Republic with more than 10 years of tradition in this fi eld. At present they have 5 spa complexes and 1 wellness hotel in four major cities of the Czech Republic - Luhačovice, Mariánské Lazně, Velké Losiny and Ostrožská Nova Ves. The total capacity is now nearly 1,000 beds.

Tel. +420 577 659 111/107www.royalspa.czwww.miramare-luhacovice.cz

in beer at Lašských on Štramberk Square. Unfortunately, no sheep’s whey cure will be available as this procedure is being kept secret. Instead, there will be salt caves, beer soaks, massages and tanning beds. Relaxation and a curative effect is guaranteed thanks to the mystical interior where the procedures are done. The touch of castle walls, underground passages and gorgeous views to the valley below will seem like a small celebration to every visitor.

Lázně HodonínMěšťanská 140695 04 Hodonín Tel: +420 518 395 [email protected]

Lázně LuhačoviceLázeňské náměstí 436763 26 LuhačoviceTel: 577 682 111Fax: 577 132 [email protected]

Priessnitzovy léčebné lázněPriessnitzova 12/299790 03 JeseníkTel: 584 491 111Fax: 584 411 [email protected]

www.spalife.info

9. 10. Area of Hotel Thermal

OPEN AIR – BARS, STAGES, FIREWORKS…

10. 10. OC Varyáda (10 a.m. – 5 p.m.)

PRESENTATIONS OF CZECH SPAS FOR THE PUBLIC

Price draw – win weekend spa staysTasting of spa wafers and spa liqueurs FOR FREE

10. – 11. 10. Loket

VINTAGE & GASTRONOMY CITY – LOKET

Including “GOURMET VILLAGE” – come to taste the specialities of our Bavarian neighbours

The Spa Festival focuses on promoting Czech Spa Destinations through word of mouth and press excursions followed by a workshop. Travel agencies and journalists from markets that are a major source of visitors and from markets with major potential as sources of visitors to Czech spa destinations are invited to Karlovy Vary every year. The participants from abroad have the opportunity to try out spa procedures while visiting, and they also are given a chance as part of the workshop to become more familiar with the offers of companies from spa destinations in the Czech Republic, for which participation in this event is free of charge thanks to support from the Czech Tourism Board – CzechTourism.

CZECH SPA FESTIVALKARLOVY VARY|

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setting with cool tunes and Bond on TV. Salmon and club sandwiches, caviar and chocolate fondue are on the small but inspired menu. QOpen 14:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 03:00. (105 - 295Kč). PA

Barock H-3, Praha 1, Pařížská 24, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 32 92 21. Not a rock bar at all. Swing with the smart set in this flash and polished bar/restaurant with huge windows and chandeliers - all the better to see the beautiful models sipping and sashaying. The aprons will come buzzing around you to offer expertly crafted drinks, succulent sushi, and a reassuringly expensive bill. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAU

Blatouch E-2, Praha 1, Vězeňská 4, MNám. Repub-liky, tel. (+420) 222 32 86 43. The soothing interior is flanked by stunning old bookcases. Seems like a suitable place to get quietly smashed on absinth whilst pretending to be intellectual, or to have a cheap and healthy lunch-time snack. The best thing about this place is the diminutive, sheltered garden at the back, perfect for spring days. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. U

Blind Eye K-4, Praha 3, Vlkova 26, MJiřího z Poděbrad, www.blindeye.cz. You can't keep a Blind Eye down… hav-ing been forced into speakeasy mode following a visit from the cops, Blind Eye is back on legal street so doors and windows will be open again to welcome the mixed crowd into its cellar interior. Friendly folk on both sides of the bar keep the vibe going late with help from well mixed drinks (try their signature McFly) and cool tunes. Video rental too. QOpen 19:00 - 04:00. 6E

Blue Light Bar B-2, Praha 1, Ostrovní 32, MMalos-transká, tel. (+420) 224 93 22 49, www.bluelightbar.cz. This tiny bar is always busy, and even if you get a table, this doesn't mean you'll keep it to yourself. An older crowd jostles, jokes and jives late into the night in this supposed jazz club. It seldom has live music, but it does play chill tunes, from Barry White to Prince to jazz standards. Strangely, this is a beer drinking country after all, they only serve small beers and at 30Kč, they ain't cheap although well mixed cocktails provide a smooth alternative. It's a cool hot spot with very interesting interior design. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00.

Bombay Cocktail Bar E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 13, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 721 882 557, www.rasoi.cz. One of the city's best late night hot spots, Bombay seldom disappoints with a wide range of cocktails, DJs who actually play what the crowd wants to hear and a diverse clientele in the right frame of mind to have fun. Enough said. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00. PAB

Casa Havana H-5, Praha 1, Opatovická 28, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 602 32 10 07, www.casahavana.cz. Cool and stylish, this classic Cuban bar is sure to become a classic Prague hangout. Dark wood, low lights, smooth Cuban tunes…oh and nearly 100 different kind of rum; a cocktail list the length of an island plus tasting menus for a variety of spirits. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAEBW

Chapeau Rouge F-3, Praha 1, Jakubská 2, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 31 63 28, www.chapeau-rouge.cz. A local legend. This large, dark red bar continues to be the place to head for to indulge a multitude of vices. A deeper and darker cellar room kicks in later in the evening as a DJ and dance venue, thus giving dedicated nocturnalists another central venue to frequent. Early on it provides a quiet alternative for a bit of chilling. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. AE

Prague's bar and club scene is as appropriately raucaus as its infamy suggests. Prices and clientele veer widely from the tourist-filled Old Town haunts to the sometimes slightly seedy neighbourhood bars. You will find that beer is drunk morning, noon and night, and that Czech beers are among the best and cheapest in the world. Brands to look out for include Pilsner Urquell, Gambrinus, Staropra-men and Budweiser (Budvar). The average wage for bar staff is 50Kč an hour, so please, after having your drinks and your fun, show some appreciation with a decent tip.

Bars Adagio K-5, Praha 2, Polská 7, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 737 52 50 81. Three worlds in one for this sleek restaurant, café and bar in what was James Bond Café: in-ternational, sushi and, the back room has been transformed into an Arab café with sheesha (200Kč) and backgammon. The Europe and the New World wine list is well selected and well presented by the friendly and efficient staff. Cocktails and Czech beer round out this worldly spot and DJs keep global citizens around. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PAK

Aloha Wave Lounge E-1, Praha 1, Dušní 11, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 724 05 57 04, www.alohapraha.cz. Wear a flower in your hair and head down-stairs to Aloha's cocktail lounge, featuring a long bar, Pacific cocktails at nice prices (try the Chi-Chi, with vodka, pineapple and coconut), and a dance floor to hula to nightly R&B and rock music. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. PAE

Back Doors Praha 5, Na Bělidle 30/310, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 257 31 58 24, www.backdoors.cz. This space is part restaurant, part bar and part club in the cellar of an old Smíchov house. Massive wooden furniture and forged iron work complement the brick walls and parquet floor of its historical setting. Good for their lunch specials and fabulous for the night time change to music bar with high quality audio system, where you can hear various styles of music from famous Czech DJs. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. AE

Bambus F-2, Praha 1, Benediktská 12, MNám. Re-publiky, tel. (+420) 224 82 81 10. Finding a seat in this warm and bustling, bamboo-laden bar can be a demanding task but a fine array of cocktails and Pilsner Urquell on tap will help you to relax afterwards. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. A

Bar and Books F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 19, MNám. Re-publiky, tel. (+420) 224 80 82 50, www.barandbooks.net. Deep red walls and ceilings, soft leather benches, dark wood finishing, books filling one complete wall and impec-cable service typify Bar & Books. Cocktails (140Kč) vie with an astounding array of whiskey, wine and cigars in this classy

Bugsy’s E-2, Praha 1, Pařížská 10, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81 02 87, www.bugsysbar.cz. Bugsy’s has been around for a fair while now, but it has managed to keep the ‘it’ that means it is a place to go if you wanted everyone who has ‘it’ to think that you have ‘it’ too. A trendy and hip crowd guaranteed then, as is a menu featuring plenty of decent cocktails. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00. PAE

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Hapu Praha 3, Orlická 8, MFlóra, tel. (+420) 222 72 01 58. The owner/barman creates magnificent drinks with studious care, there's no tossing of shakers here, just mountains of fresh fruit and shots that would floor an elephant. Get here early if you want a seat or stand until you hit the deck because this place is tiny, has sounds the chilly end of cool and is therefore constantly packed. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00.

Harlequin J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 25, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 224 21 72 40, www.harlequin.zde.cz. This combo would probably never happen anywhere else, but when you feel like having a few beers then shoot some arrows, we have found the place for you. With pool hall and new roulette wheel upstairs and laser golf, laser karaoke and archery down in the black walled cellar, Harlequin will keep the most dysfunctional group happy. Archery tuition on various bows for a lot of fun from 19:00 - 24:00 is 200Kč per bow per hour. Golf 400Kč. Well priced but bottled only beer downstairs, Krušovice upstairs for 24Kč. An intriguing gem of a place. QOpen 14:00 - 04:00. K

Harley's E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 18, tel. (+420) 227 19 51 95, www.harleys.cz. Interesting mix of bikers, locals and tourists, this long, long bar has emerged on the scene not just because of their large US style food, well mixed drinks or Wild Cats (shot shifting girls) but due to the presence of two of Dusk till Dawn's barmen. Check it out. Shots around 60Kč and Jack 80Kč. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00. (120 - 350Kč). A

There are lots of places in which you can lose your shirt - just make sure it’s a smart shirt or you won’t even get in in the first place! All of these places will gladly receive your cash in Czech crowns or US dollars and give you free booze with which to drown your sorrows. You’ll need to be over 18, well-dressed and in possession of ID to play.

Banco Casino F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 27, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 221 96 73 80, www.banco-casino.cz. One of Prague’s favourite casinos, set in a central location difficult to beat. All your favourite games are available, there are state of the art slot machines, a private salon and a general atmosphere of unadulter-ated luxury that entices even James Bond: it was used in Casino Royale... Q Open 24 hours. A

Casino de Prague Le Hilton J-2, Praha 8, Pobřežní 1 (Hotel Hilton), MFlorenc, tel. (+420) 224 81 09 88. One of the favoured casinos for Prague expats, the Hilton provides roulette, poker, blackjack, pontoon, Punto Banco, and slots with the worldwide standards of the Hilton chain. QOpen 14:00 - 06:00. A

Casino President E-1, Praha 1, Nám. Curieových 100 (President Hotel), MStaromětská, tel. (+420) 234 61 41 13, www.casinopresident.cz. Roulette, black jack, poker, pontoon and slots available at this luxurious new casino. Minimum bets are 100Kč for blackjack, et al. and 25Kč on roulette. Free soft drinks while you gamble. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. A

Century Casino Millennium I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 10, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 221 03 34 01, www.cnty.com. Catering to the likes of the Marriott Hotel, the Century Casino in the Millennium Plaza boasts excellent croupiers who will help out beginners and take anyone’s money. The usual roulette, poker and blackjack are available. QOpen 15:00 - 04:00. AL

Spearmint Casino D-1, Praha 1, U Plovárny 8, tel. (+420) 257 535 755, www.spearmintcasino.cz. Come to the only English-style casino in Prague. Spearmint has the highest limits available in the city. Try your luck at roulette, pontoon, blackjack and poker or play in the private gaming room. If mechanics are more your thing, head for the new slot machines upstairs. Free transport to the casino is also available. Admission is free. QOpen 19:00 - 04:00. A

Casinos

Ambassador Casino E-4, Václavské nám. 5, MMůstek, tel. +420 724 747 401, www.vipclub.cz. Poker, roulette, blackjack, pontoon and slots at-tract a sophisticated crowd with the casino’s excellent, knowledgeable staff, and appropriate atmosphere. Q Open 24hrs. AK

Casino Panorama Praha 4, Milevská 7, MPankrác, tel. +420 724 747 403, www.vipclub.cz. The Corin-thia Panorama Hotel hosts another winning casino from the VIP group. The usual games and slot machines are on offer, with drinks and refreshments. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. AL

See advertisement on p. 56.

CASINO AMBASSADORHOTEL AMBASSADOR, VÁCLAVSKÉ NÁM. 5, PRAHA 1, OPEN NONSTOP

www.vipclub.cz

CASINO PANORAMAPANORAMA HOTEL PRAGUE, MILEVSKÁ 7, PRAHA 4, OPEN 20:00 - 04:00

Cloud 9 J2, Praha 8, Pobřežní 1, MFlorenc, tel. (+420) 224 84 29 99, [email protected], www.cloud9.cz. Nine floors up, Prague's first sky bar offers stunning views, a cool interior, smooth sounds and amazing cocktails. A master bartender mixes up old favorites plus a line of signature Cloud 9-only concoctions. A small grazing menu offers an eclectic line-up of tastes and weekend DJ's keep the vibe going. Atop the Hilton Hotel. Highly recommended. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. JAE

Coyotes E-3, Praha 1, Malé nám. 2, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 224 21 60 00, www.coyotes.cz. Lots of beauties floating around here; both behind and in front of the bar. Nightly DJ's spin the best from the 70's, 80's & 90's. Cocktails and food complete the night. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. PA

DC1 I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 1, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 24 75 15, [email protected], www.dc1.cz. Image is important, based on the hip crowd you see lounging at DC1. The interior is designed to match their carefully maintained looks. DJ's and dancing are the norm here; plus good-looking people. The restaurant is basic; pastas, meat dishes and cocktails. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. Restaurant: 09:00-24:00. Club: 21:00-03:00. (150 - 380Kč). PB

Gecko H-5, Praha 1, Mikulandská 2, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 776 11 72 93. Gecko could be mistaken for a chameleon as it appears to be a fine place for a quiet drink then suddenly you're having a crazy time in what was the smallest bar in Prague. A kitchen (good, cheap eats) and small music club downstairs plus more tables have almost quadrupled the bar space. The fun factor has not been diluted. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00.

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Hospoda Lucerna I-4, Praha 1, Vodíčkova 39, tel. (+420) 221 14 63 37, www.hospodalucerna.cz. A long, loud bar with the rock feel of the music hall opposite and serves up decent and cheap meals in the belly of the city. A 30 person private dining room is available or join the throng in the carved totem pole littered room with alcove tables and various people eating, drinking and being merry. This hospoda often hosts bands' post-gig nights. During the day, enjoy the atmosphere - it's been here since 1908. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. KW

Irish Club Prague H-1, Praha 7, Keramická 4, tel. (+420) 233 37 11 28, www.irishclubprague.com. An Irish bar in the heart of Letná rather than Old Town allows for friend-lier prices and local attendance. Live (Irish & Czech country, blues and more) music (there is also a piano for punters), quiz nights, foosball and warm wooden interior. Gambrinus 20Kč. Accommodation available upstairs. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.

Jet Set Praha 5, Radlická 1c, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 257 32 72 51. The central square bar is low enough for all drinkers to scan the crowd and check out who's who this evening, the split levels ensure dancers with confidence will be centre stage, and the DJs make sure everyone has to get close together for any conversation. It's sleek, chic and designed to empty NYC wannabes' pockets with style. The great menu has a Mediterranean influence. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PAGB

Kozička E-2, Praha 1, Kozí 1, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 224 81 83 08, www.kozicka.cz. Tagged out front by the sculpture of an iron goat, Kozička is entered via heavy red curtains, down the stairs and into the labyrinthine set of rooms. Good food adds to the late night party vibe and this is one of the kitchens that'll feed us late into the Prague night - till 01:45 in fact. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 03:00. PAI

La Belle Epoque D-3, Praha 1, Křižovnická 8, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 32 19 26. The place is decked out with aesthetic treasures such as American highway signs, Japanese car dealership merchandising and, ever since some minor film star went there once, an attitude to make Joan Collins seem down-to-earth. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PAI

La Casa Blů E-1, Praha 1, Kozí 15, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 224 81 82 70, www.lacasablu.cz. A package deal of generic South Americana sold as the real deal. A pleasing and soothing spirit pervades the darkened corners, which are perfect, when a little recuperation is needed, for sprawling in but at the same time you can perch at the bar and find yourself in the midst of a mini Mardi Gras. Ay caramba the food is great too. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. 6EKW

Le Tram H-1, Praha 7, Šmeralova 12, tel. (+420) 233 370 359. The French owner of this red-lit funky bar has bits of trams all over the place - from the plastic chairs to the hand railings. Better yet are the cheap beers and cocktails that the wizards behind the bar conjure up, and the great French multi-culti music which is DJed or played live in the rear corner. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00.

Lokalblok Praha 5, nám. 14. října 10, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 777 24 24 76, www.lokalblok.cz. A climbing bar in Anděl, with air conditioned walls, claiming to be the third largest in Europe. With good overhangs and some tough lines, the wall will create a thirst that is easily and cheaply quenched in the popular bar upstairs, where the prime sport is vertical flirting. A weird foosball table downstairs too. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Climbing wall open 09:00 - 22:00; Sat & Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 60Kč per day. PB

Újezd A-4, Praha 1, Újezd 18, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 257 31 65 37, www.klubujezd.cz. Yes, the ambience is young, shabby and hedonistic, but Újezd's three floors and especially the bizarre wrought iron sculptures are a tonic to eyes and ears. Friendly staff and hot (most of them smoking) people throng here any night for live music and/or DJs. The cellar is punk, and upstairs is a more eclectic chill zone. Don't bring your posh frock, do bring some energy. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. E

Be kara OK! I-5, Praha 2, Legerova 78, MMuzeum. One of Prague's busiest roads leads to the city's first truly Japanese karaoke experience. Forget embarrassing yourself in front of a bar full of people, this place sports five rooms for 6 to 15 exhibitionists to wield the microphone in private, hi-tec glory. Full bar, sushi bistro and full complement of Japanese delicacies invite a Lost in Translation experience. Q Open 18:00 - 02:00; Fri & Sat 18:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. Prices begin at about 100Kč pp/hr. PAGK

Celnice I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 21 22 40, www.celnice.com. Young Czech la-dies dressed in the day's fashions, usually nearly see-through knee-length white pants and heels, ponder the differences between expats in plaid shirts and tattooed bartenders who look like they just stepped out of a fashion magazine. Dance chart toppers get a lot of airplay here. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. PAGB

Cross Club Praha 7, Plynární 23, tel. (+420) 736 53 50 53, www.crossclub.cz. One of Prague's underground legends has emerged into legal luminescence as the cool kid on the block. The labyrinthine den has, despite its slightly out of the way location, become a firm favourite. Jungle, drum ‘n base, house and chill out have their own rooms and the music, whether DJ or live, has to compete with some of the funkiest, most inventive and ever-changing décor around. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 05:00. 6EBK

Duplex I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 21, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 732 22 11 11, [email protected], www.duplex.cz. A massive designer space fed by a couple of lifts from street level, this is where Mick Jagger decided to spend his birthday, which has probably made the place even more full of itself. Theme nights range from Dirty Dancing parties on Fridays to local and international DJ's on Saturdays. QOpen, Wed, Thu, Fri 22:00 - 05:00, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. ABK

during the cooler months, and despite the listed closing time, Sudička keeps the mellow vibe well into the night. Czech bar snacks, magazines and no music typify the place, while the 0.4L beers ensure it isn't a haven for drunks. QOpen 10:33 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:33 - 23:00. I

Swank E-3, Praha 1, Havelská 499/27, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 777 32 99 17, www.swankbar.cz. Cool and minimalist or plastic and pretentious, Swank can be both, but there's no denying they serve a good cocktail. Tucked away from the madding crowd, Swank offers a no smoking area, happy hour (50% from 15:00) and events and parties in addition drawing a thirsty bunch of drinkers most nights. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00. AG

Tr e t t e r s E - 2 , P r a h a 1 , V K o l k o v n ě 3 , MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 224 81 11 65, www.tretters.cz. The bar cer tainly seems sure of i ts leading role here, swallowing up so much of the space that i t leaves li ttle room for customers. And rightly so. Com-mitted barmen can rattle up some seriously decent cocktails and they serve the best Bloody Marys in town. Wear a sui t or the staff will probably sneer at you. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. PA

Ultramarin H-4, Praha 1, Ostrovní 32, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 224 93 22 49, www.ultramarin.cz. Deep in an old cellar, Ultramarin has pricey but decently made drinks and a few bugs to iron out service-wise. They've browsed through the chic end of the renovation brochure producing a feel that is definitely style over substance. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. PAE

Wakata I-1, Praha 7, Malířská 14, MVltavská, tel. (+420) 233 37 05 18, www.wakata.cz. You'll have plenty of time to admire the owner's welding work, in the form of outlandish bar stools, whilst waiting for staff to relocate your order in the scrambled minds which they nonchalantly nod to a great soundtrack of hip-hop and other assortments. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. E

Zapa Bar Dušní 6, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 58 99, www.zapabar.cz. If you're looking for a quiet place to chat and have a cocktail, Zapa is for you. Prices are decent for the centre of town, the staff is pleasant and you can usually get a seat and relax. QOpen 18:00 - 2:00.

Clubs Abaton Praha 8, Na Košince 8 / Povltavská 2175, MPalmovka, tel. (+420) 602 32 44 34, www.prostora-baton.cz. Very cool club a tad out of town but with one of the best programs in the city, be it drum n bass DJs or live music to the tune of Chumbawamba, Natacha Atlas, The Dresden Dolls or Free Monday local heroes such as Dirty Airlines. Beer hall downstairs with video feed from the stage upstairs. Open for gigs only and closing time depends on the band/after party. Tram 10, 24, 25 to stanice Stejskalova QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. E

Akropolis K-4, Praha 3, Kubelíkova 27, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 296 33 09 11, www.palacak-ropolis.cz. Akropolis goes a long way to saving the world on those humdrum nights in the winter. A sprawling den of scruffy delights with great and often unusual live music and DJs. There are two bars, an adjoining café, plus the excel-lent gig space offering some of the most intriguing music in Prague on offer. Gigs have to finish at 22:00 so start times here are punctual. QOpen 16:00 - 04:00. Admission 30 - 400Kč. EKW

Mad Bar Plaská 5, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 775 12 22 56/(+420) 257 21 98 55, [email protected], www.madbar.cz. Fun, clean joint that doesn't really life up to its “mad” moniker. All the more reason to go - they have a small, but varied menu and the prices are reasonable for the area. Plus a happy hour from 16:00-19:00 means 25% of food and drink. Go mad. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 21:00.

Molotow Cocktail Bar H-5, Praha 2, Karlovo nám. 31, MKarlovo nám., tel. (+420) 222 23 33 34, www.molotow.cz. Requisite black marble, zoot suit silver trap-pings in the bathroom and pretty folk on mobiles sipping at the bar. However, Molotow transcends the cliché and provides a wicked although somewhat expensive night out. Mojitos et al. are 125Kč, but, as ever, sit at the bar, make friends with the talented staff and see if they'll give you a Dragon's Breath, which even if you pay for it, is worth the spectacle. And the hangover… QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PA

Papas D-4, Praha 1, Betlémské nám. 8, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 222 22 22 29, www.papasbar.cz. It's all louche and lazy at Papas. Red walls, yellow leather banquettes and smoky glass give an upmarket feel. The Mediterranean menu is the usual, yet tasty, mix of salads, pasta and fish. Why does everyone insist on scrawling cocktail specials in neon pen across perfect people-watching windows? QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. A

Pekelnej Bar Praha 5, Na Bělidle 38, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 257 32 24 10, www.pekelnejbar.cz. Anděl might mean angel in Czech, but this part of town is acquiring a devil-ish reputation. Pekelnej, meaning Hellish, is heavy on chains, red drapery and attitude. DJs spin nightly although the lack of dance floor means you have to jostle with one another. Excellent Bloody Mary for just 80Kč and Czech wine from 160Kč a bottle. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00.

Repete F-2, Praha 1, Rybná 17, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 81 40 62. A long, many-roomed bar tucked behind Kotva and appealing to the Old Town crowd looking for a cheaper, calmer place to sup some drinks. Friendly staff and happy drinkers provide a decadent atmosphere later, while wine-sipping shoppers fill the tables during the day. Pilsner 35Kč. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Fri 15:00 - 02:00, Sat 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:30.

Ridgeback H-5, Praha 1, Karlovo nám. 288/17, MKar-lovo nám., tel. (+420) 721 44 88 76. Religious iconography abounds with hand painted murals in this world and rhythm live and DJ music venue and bar. Confusing for those who know the (Žitná) Ridgeback of late, this is actaully a completely new venue, although some similar faces make appearances in this two-room spot, and the vibe is dictated by the music and the crowd it attracts. Q Open 14:00 - 02:00. Fri & Sat 17:00 - 05:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. E

St. Nicholas Café A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 10, MMalos-transká. Purportedly a wine bar, St. Nick's has been attract-ing drinkers of all vogues for years and his allure hasn't waned. Dedicated drinkers keep the vibe going late and jazzy live music adds to the cellar ambience. Snacks available. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 01:00.

Sudička K-6, Praha 3, Nitranská 7, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 222 52 06 72, www.sudicka.cz. The muted wooden floors and furniture in this cellar space provide a perfect venue for low down, chill out conversation to the accompaniment of a few drinks. The fireplace entices all

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Futurum G-6, Praha 5, Zborovská 7, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 257 32 85 71, www.musicbar.cz. Smíchov is on its way to glory, and the way is paved by Futurum's, er, futuristic rooms. Its ultra modern conversions with eccentric lighting and exposed metal and brick is inventive. The place hosts launch parties for Czech bands, the odd cultural festival and half-decent DJs. Fridays host their popular 80s & 90s night. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. Admission 100Kč. E

Karlovy Lázně C-3, Praha 1, Smetanovo nábreží 198, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 22 05 02, www.karlovylazne.cz. Set up as Prague's superclub, this place has been rebuilt with panache, e.g. the transparent floor thus enabling you to comfortably look up girls' skirts. Live bands, chillout rooms and free internet access in the basement, standard tunes one floor up, eclectica up one again, and more hard core dance tracks in the loft. Q MCM Internet Café open 10:00 - 05:00. Club open 21:00 - 05:00. Admission 21:00-22:00 50Kč, after 22:00 120Kč.

Klub 007 Strahov Praha 6, Vaníčkova 7, Koleje ČVUT blok 7, tel. (+420) 257 21 14 39, www.klub007strahov.cz. Skulking in the basement of a block of student accommo-dation near Stadion Strahov, this hardcore/punk and hip-hop club has been keeping study results bad for years. QOpen 19:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 19:30 - 02:00. E

Klub Lávka C-3, Praha 1, Novotného lávka 1, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 22 21 56, www.lavka.cz. Lávka occupies a beautiful corner right next to Charles Bridge, with terraces looking across the water to the castle. This is about as apt and tasteful as say... putting Elton John in charge of your funeral arrangements and expecting an occassion of grace and dignity. QOpen 21:30 - 05:00. PAUEK

La Fabrique E-4, Praha 1, Uhelný trh 2, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 23 31 37, www.lafabrique.cz. A swish com-plex of large underground rooms sets the scene for the La Fabrique's definition of a music club. The hordes of uniformed employees are friendly and efficient. Downstairs, the dance floor is packed with a mixture of expats and Czechs doing the meat-market disco stomp to whatever weird mixture the DJ (who couldn't gauge the atmosphere of a morgue) serves up to them. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. PA

Lucerna Music Bar I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 36, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 21 71 08, www.musicbar.cz. The more popular local bands and the smaller international groups ply their trade here fairly regularly. Every Saturday you can find an un-hip, unpretentious crowd cavorting at their disarmingly popular 1980s night, which has led to the doors being closed because of sheer numbers. QOpen 19:00 - 06:00. Admission 50 - 150Kč. PE

M1 E-2, Praha 1, Masná 1, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 221 87 42 56. Grey and industrial looking, this railroad car of a bar is an ideal place to lounge around. Swamped barmen deftly pour drinks in front of the glow of illuminated spirits on the wall. New owners have shifted the scene some at Prague's M1, with nightly themes from the increasingly popular Sunday chill out sessions to ladies' night and DJ Big J's Smokin' Fridays. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. A

Mecca Praha 7, U Průhonu 3, MNádraží Holešovice, tel. (+420) 602 71 12 25, [email protected], www.mecca.cz. Mecca has taken the proceeds from its status as the recent clubbing star of Prague and done something very odd. It has spent it on making the club even better. Now one can hardly shuffle from one foot to other without falling into the lap of some super-model clubbing lass lying back on one of

the huge white sofas. The DJ's they showcase are some of the best town. QOpen, Wed, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun. Admission 150 - 200Kč. PAUE

Nebe H-5, Praha 1, Křemencova 10, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 777 80 04 11. This slice of heaven produces what its punters want every night and hence conjures up a good vibe, happy drinkers and DJs who do have a clue about creating and keeping the atmosphere. Bar keeps add to the atmosphere which goes on late. QOpen 19:00 - 05:00.

Popocafepetl Music Club Praha 1, Újezd 19, www.popocafepetl.cz. The space is small but well utilised and already drawing the crowds. Located by trendy Downtown Café, this block is a new hotspot. Their bookings are an in-ternational bunch from homegrown talent to bands/members from SCO/FRA/SK/HU. Sundays have proved a good night for Gitans (CZ) and their gypsy nights. Gigs begin at 20.30. Admission up to 150Kč. QOpen 16.00 - 02.00. E

Retro Music Hall J-6, Praha 2, Franzouzská 4, MNám. Míru, tel. (+420) 603 47 67 47, www.retropraha.cz. A new and rising star of a club of the same name as the adjacent restaurant and music bar. The club has a good and varied roster of local and international bands and DJs rocking the decent floor, balcony and stage space. Open for gigs only and closing time depends on the band/after party. Admission 30 - 500Kč depending on the band. Q Open Thu - Sat 17:00 - 05:00. PE

Rock Café D-4, Praha 1, Národní 20, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 224 93 39 47, www.rockcafe.cz. Three bars and a funky, boxy lounge with cool mural graffiti and screen makes Rock Café continously one of the most suave places in town. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 17:00 - 03:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. Admission 50 - 100Kč. EW

Roxy E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 82 62 96, www.roxy.cz. Probably the best club in Prague, years of kudos keep the place hopping de-spite some sound issues. Live acts and DJs plus the divinely eclectic Free Mondays. Q Box office open 16:00. Club open for concerts 19:00, for club nights 22:00. PE

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SaSaZu K-1, Praha 7, Bubenské nábřeží 306, MVltavská, tel. 284 09 74 44, [email protected], www.sasazu.com. Pretty cool spot, and definitely the best thing to open here in recent memory. SaSaZu sports a split-level dance floor with enough space for up to 2,000 of your nearest and dearest. Styling décor; flashing lights and lots of events make this a good spot to know and go. Mix of DJs and live acts. Other part of the former warehouse is a Thai restaurant. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00.

Top Secret Club E-2, Praha 1, Masná 9, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 69 03, [email protected], www.topsecretclub.cz. The secret's out - Top Secret is one cool joint. The club is happening; and the cafe is open long hours. Brunch is offered on the weekends. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Cafe is open everyday (8:00-22:00); club only Tuesdays-Saturdays (22:00-5:00.)

U Bukanýra F-1, Praha 1, Nábřeží L. Svobody, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 608 97 35 82, www.bukanyr.cz. Find Bukanýra, a houseboat-looking floating bar and club at another new address under Štefánikova most. It's small but friendly and always busy with chilled groups lounging in the comfortable seating. Various DJs spin discs while boozers smooze and movers groove. QOpen, Thu 19:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. The summer terrace bar is open 16:00 - 24:00, closed Sun & Mon. B

U Buldoka Praha 5, Preslova 1, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 257 32 91 54, www.ubuldoka.cz. Straddling the fence between a munched out smokey dive of a bar and a club because it's open late and has DJs, The Bulldog, in the same vein that it was started in a few years ago, is the receptacle for the flotsam and jetsam from Chateau across the river. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. Admission 50 - 100Kč.

Vagon D-4, Praha 1, Národní 25, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 221 08 55 99, www.vagon.cz. Vagon was a danc-ing hall during communist times so if your parents are too old to boogie here come yourself and check out the dedication to the artwork, if not exactly the spirit, of the decadent 1960s. An excellent live venue renowned for quality cover bands, local and international acts plus an open mic night on select Mondays. QOpen 18:00 - 05:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. E

Vertigo E-4, Praha 1, Havelská 4, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 774 74 42 56, www.vertigo-club.cz. Whether by design or by accident, this club does indeed spin the mind… split levels and balconies loiter under low ceilings while some of the weirdest video footage ever accompanies the tracks to create a space that lures your mind and your feet. Excellent DJs and unusual theme nights attract a disparate group of folk. Q Club: Thu - Sat 21:00 - 04:00; café: 08:00 - 21:00 except club nights open to 04:00. Admission free. P

XT3 Praha 3, Rokycanova 29, MFlóra, tel. (+420) 222 78 34 63, www.xt3.cz. A short walk from Flóra or JzP, this fabulous cavern space of a club in Žižkov has become the new home of XT3 (it was, and will always be to many, Guru). Come early or be lucky, but get one of the balcony booths. Live music and/or DJs plus foosball, flippery (pinball),and a café upstairs with cool sofas. The eclectic crowd accompanies the talent. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 03:00. Admission from 30Kč for live acts. E

Zlaté časy H-5, Praha 1, Vladislavova 1, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 224 94 81 70, www.zlatecasy.cz. A perfectly situated music club just off Lazarská, Zlaté časy is an excellent destination as well as a place to while away the time till your tram home. Steep stairs lead into the single roomed, high-ceiled club, perfect for scoping out the talent at the bar or on the dance floor. Music varies, but later, everyone bops to Czech pop. Not bad prices either, 40Kč for a Pilsner Urquell. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun.

Jazz AghaRTA Jazz Centrum E-3, Praha 1, Železná 16, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 222 21 12 75, [email protected], www.agharta.cz. This beautiful arched medieval cellar is the perfect place to appreciate some of the very fine bands on the Prague jazz circuit, cut with the odd night of heavy blues. Arrive early to claim a seat at a table. There's a jazz shop, where they sell CDs including their own compilations of visiting talent. QOpen 18:00 - 00:30. Concerts daily at 21:00. Admis-sion 200Kč. Reservations via email only before 15:00. E

Blues Sklep D-3, Praha 1, Lilliová 10, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 774 27 70 60, www.bluessklep.cz. Sklep means cellar in Czech, and this is a true hewn-from-rock underground experience - although it does have that ‘new' edge to it following complete reconstruction after the floods. A varied roster of blues, jazz plus some deep funk stalwarts of and newcomers to the scene play nightly. Ferdinand waters the thirsty crowd for 25Kč. Admission 100Kč. Concerts begin at 21:00. QOpen 19:00 - 02:30.


Drake’s G-6, Praha 5, Zborovská 50, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 257 32 68 28, www.drakes.cz. THE place for tourists to discover Prague’s gay scene. Non stop fun and games in the dark rooms, bar or dungeon. Q Open 24hrs. Admission 500Kč.

Escape I-5, Praha 1, V jámě 8, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 606 11 11 77, [email protected], www.escapeprague.cz. Escape has now provided six years of pleasure to its customers. Every day sees solo strip and oil shows followed by the megastrip featuring 12-16 lads. Fri & Sat has extra body painting and live shows. You aren’t going to want to escape but if you do, ask for their taxi service. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00.

Termix K-5, Praha 2, Třebízského 4a, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 222 71 04 62, www.club-termix.cz. The newest club on the gay scene here and perhaps the way of things to come as it’s for gays and lesbians. Shiny glass bar, cushy sofas and dark rooms. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00.

The Saints K-5, Praha 2, Polská 32, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 222 25 03 26, www.saintsbar.cz. Young and good looking, like their bar staff, the Saints bar adds a sinful option to Prague’s gay scene. Small but perfectly formed, Saints has adopted the early evening and late night position on the gay day, as it were. To spice up life for everyone, these wicked people have introduced Thursday lesbian nights to their weekly line-up. Excellent chill out bar. Walkers Crisps and Smirnoff Ice have coaxed the Brits in. Gambrinus 35Kč. Four apartments available too. QOpen 19:00 - 04:00.

U Rudolfa I-5, Praha 1, Mezibrannská 3, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 605 87 24 92. Highly recommended as the only gay beer hall in Prague. It is loud, smoky, full of regu-lars and the only music seems to be decades-old Czech and Slovak hits. English is not the common language here. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00.

Valentino J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 40, MNám. Míru, tel. (+420) 222 51 34 91, www.club-valentino.cz. A new star on the Prague gay scene, Valentino has linked its street level bar, cafe and cellar dance floor via a tunnel of love to the dance floor and dark room of old Gej...zeer to provide three floors of good atmosphere, lovely staff and kicking nights, with weekends attracting a huge, pumping crowd. QOpen 14:00 - 05:00. Admis-sion free. BEKP

Gay Prague

Jazz Boat D-1, Praha 1, Čechův most, Kotva boat, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 731 18 31 80, www.jazzboat.cz. Take a musical journey on the low seas of the Vltava. The Jazz Boat sets sail each evening from Čechův most and for only 590Kč you're afforded a two and a half hour cruise around Prague to the accompaniment of excellent jazz performed by some of the city's finest musicians. A bar and restaurant are also at your disposal, but their services are not included in the bill. It's best to arrive early to get good seats. QOpen 20:30 - 23:00. AEGBK

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Jazz Dock Praha 5, Janáčkovo nábřeží 2, tel. 774 05 88 38, [email protected], www.jazzdock.cz. Soul, funk, blues…if it jams it's at Jazz Dock. This newly opened riverside club offers a diverse selection of blues & jazz genres, with a variety of bands taking the stage every night. Open till the wee hours, but stop by during the day for a light snack at their rooftop café. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. 150 Kč standard admission.

Reduta D-4, Praha 1, Národní 20, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 224 93 34 87, www.redutajazzclub.cz. Founded in 1958, Reduta was the first real venue for Czech rock and roll, playing smuggled Elvis records. Reduta has not changed much since then; don't come for the brown 1980s interior or the uncomfortable bench seating; Reduta still brings in quality performers and even attracts a president or two. Václav Havel has brought Bill Clinton here twice now, and yes, he did play his sax. QOpen 21:00 - 24:00. PE

U Malého Glena B-3, Praha 1, Karmelitská 23, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 53 17 17, www.maly-glen.cz. Little Glen's is, appropriately, a tiny venue downstairs from a scrubbed wooden Irish-type bar, and hosts a wide spectrum of local bands, with a particularly strong roster of jazz and blues acts turning up regularly. You can book one of the 20 or so spots crammed in around the tables. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. Admission Mon, Tue & Thu 120Kč; Wed, Fri & Sat 150Kč; Sun 70Kč. PAE

Ungelt Jazz & Blues Club E-2, Praha 1, Týnská ulička 2, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 89 57 48, www.jazzblues.cz. Wander to the pub upstairs, and you'll be pleas-antly surprised by the cheerful atmosphere and cheap drinks. Go down the stairs and you descend into the more expected territory of clinging onto your cash for dear life, though it does host some good bluesy jazz. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00; club open 20:00 - 02:00. Admission free.

U Staré paní H-4, Praha 1, Michalská 9, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 603 55 16 80, www.jazzlounge.cz. An elevated stage, a fancy Petrov grand piano and a regular schedule of quality, contemporary jazz make U Staré paní a favourite venue for Prague's serious jazz aficionado, local, expatriate and tourist alike. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PAEG

Pubs Caffrey's E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 10, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 224 82 80 31, www.caffreys.cz. Good service and a great location on Staromětské nám. make this a popular Irish pub for many, including large parties of stag nighters. Old Town prices are justified by their excellent food menu (try the authentic Irish breakfast), first rate Guinness, Bulmer's cider, Walker's crisps and more to make you feel right at home. A good venue to watch all the major (GAA too) sporting events. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. PABK

George & Dragon E-2, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 11, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 32 61 37. A British pub landed slap bang in the middle of Old Town Square. TV screens, a big screen and footy shirts line the walls so it won't remind you of the country outside. Good food, including an all day breakfast with the atmosphere you want to see your team play and win, with any luck. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. ABK

Jáma D-4, Praha 1, V jámě 7, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 22 23 83, www.jamapub.cz. The memorabilia may be a bit over the top, but it's preferable to the obligatory stop signs and imitation Coke/Pepsi prints elsewhere. The Hollow's worn wooden seats are home to expats and locals alike, who

frequent this bar for its burgers, BLTs and Tex-Mex as well as the cheap local specials and beer. Bring your laptop for free wi-fi. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. TAGBKW

J.J.Murphy's A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 4, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 53 55 75, www.jjmurphys.cz. Don't worry, they also have Guinness. If you pine for the days when you could enjoy a pint, a good meal and your favourite sporting event without screaming Englishmen in dresses working on their 20th beer, then belly up to this Irish bar. Watch live sport from one of the sofas in the attic lounge or have a proper breakfast with pudding or a real American burger on the ground floor. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. AK

Malostranská pivnice C-2, Praha 1, Cihelná 3, MMalos-transká, tel. (+420) 257 53 00 32, www.malostranskapiv-nice.cz. A Pilsner Urquell restaurant serving the flagship 12° brew for just 30Kč, with Kozel on tap and a large, sunny and shady courtyard complete with weeping willow makes this a super stop for liquid and solid sustenance on the tourist trail. Inside, TVs draw crowds for sporting events, while the presence of locals and the friendly multi-lingual staff keep standards high. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (120 - 600Kč). B

Martin's Irish Pub I-6, Praha 2, Lublaňská 57, MI.P. Pavlova, tel. (+420) 222 51 81 17. This is an Irish bar for locals who crave the beer and atmosphere of the Emerald Isle without the English-speakers. The menu lists Czech-style international dishes and some of the cheapest Guinness in town at 59Kč. It's probably also the only pub of its genre to offer Kung Pao pork and only one TV. Odd, yet refreshing. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PBK

Merlin J-6, Praha 2, Bělehradská 68a, MI.P. Pavlova, tel. (+420) 222 52 20 54, http://merlin-pub.hyperlink.cz. Merlin the magician shares brick wall space with Guinness posters and other emblems of Irishness, intermingled with antique agricultural contraptions. The long bar resembles that of an authentic pub and the sofas add to the laid-back feel. The lower level houses the restaurant, which serves the usual options with more than a dash of a varied Mexican menu. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. K

Molly Malone's E-2, Praha 1, U Obecního dvora 4, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 81 88 51, www.mol-lymalones.cz. A quiet, nicely downbeat Irish pub. Odds and ends of bashed about furniture clutter the scrubbed wooden floors making it a perfect oasis for fairly well-heeled slumming. Take your time contemplating the excellent menu over some cider or a Guinness. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PAUK

Na Poličce K-6, Praha 2, Moravská 40, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 603 83 88 99. The one police sta-tion we'd gladly get locked in. Poličce has a young clientele and a noisy, smoky bierkeller atmosphere which is a great accompaniment for their brews - this microbrewery has been fermenting their nectar since 1517. Dark and light beers on tap and in bottles, plus food and cocktails. Cheap too, at just 14 - 17Kč for a beer. The door is on Chodská. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Also at Korunovační 9. K

Rocky O'Reilly's I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 32, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 222 23 10 60, www.rockyoreil-lys.cz. Photos of prestigious poets and pubs, Guinness on draught and an ‘O' in its name all meet the criteria for a clas-sic Irish watering hole. Other perks include hearty portions of international food including a huge Irish breakfast served anytime, Sky Sports broadcast on several TVs and wait staff that can easily draw your attention away from the football. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAK

Sherlock's Pub D-4, Praha 1, Bartolomějská 11, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 226 21 19 39, www.sher-lockspub.cz. This split level pub with somewhat authentic feel, paintings all over the walls and small courtyard is the Prague location for the Ostrava original. Part sport bar, part cocktail bar and part pub, Sherlock's has many stairs, plays some terrible tunes but has a good kitchen which is open till 03:00. Staropramen costs, strangely, more that Stella and drink specials at weekends will make those stairs more dif-ficult… QOpen 17:00 - 04:00. BK

Tlustá koala F-3, Praha 1, Senovážná 1394/8, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 24 54 01. The Fat Koala boasts (if that's the word) Foster's lager, but everything else is more international than Aussie. With 11 beers on tap and more in bottles, this place is a dream and prices (Staropramen 31Kč) are not that high considering its location. Two floors of pub ambience and private rooms keep people lingering long after the hearty meals have been sufficiently washed down. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 04:00. (100 - 800Kč). PAK

U Černého vola Praha 1, Loretánské nám. 1, MMalos-transká, tel. (+420) 220 51 34 81. It's almost unbelievable to find a genuine, top-quality, great priced Czech pub just up the hill from the castle. Yet here it is. A tiled hall full of wooden benches, sextagenerians and the best Kozel on the planet. Walk up Nerudova (A-2), continue up Úvoz and make a right. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.

U Zlatého tygra D-3, Praha 1, Husova 17, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 22 11 11, www.uzlatehotygra.cz. Havel took Bill Clinton here to demonstrate Czech drinking culture (and let's face it, if there's one thing Havel knows, it's his booze). Get there by opening time to have any chance of getting in. The Pilsner brewery makes special deliveries here - the beer is pumped directly into the large tanks below the bar. A national institution. QOpen 15:00 - 23:00. K

Sports bars Dubliner Irish Bar F-2, Praha 1, Týn 1, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 224 89 54 04. Formerly Legends sports bar, the Dubliner bills itself as an Irish sports pub. Whatever, you've still got 12 TV's + 2 large screens now nestled in a homely Irish pub atmosphere. If there's an international sport match you gotta watch it's highly likely you'll see it here. Weekends visiting DJ's rule the roost. QOpen, Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (100 - 400Kč). PJAEK

Praga Sport Café E-4, Praha 1, Jungmannovo nám. 21, MMůstek. A paradoxically secluded and central spot which attracts the stag partiers for its location off Wenceslas Sq., for the several plasma screens showing all European satellite channels and for the adult entertainment location upstairs. Even after the whistle has blown, this sport bar is known to continue the party. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. ABW

Shamrock Irish Pub F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 56, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 224 03 24 81. The two-floor cellar space is accessible via a deceptively small entrance at street level. Upon entering, any subtlety is wiped out by 4 massive projection screens, numerous smaller TVs around the circular-ish room and hordes of chanting fans. Good food, the famous Irish breakfast and all European channels attract sport fans and staggers alike. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. (100 - 350Kč). PAK

The Beer Factory I-5, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 58, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 736 63 08 68. Down see-through steps (which could make things hallucinogenic later on…) is this industrial-looking and functional, as the name sug-gests, beer factory. Well located and easily locatable by the square's landmark statue, this beer hall's cavernous space should be packed daily - just look at those opening hours. Taps at your table serve Pilsner Urquell (at 39Kč) while mix drinks, coffee and hearty Czech dishes are served up by the staff. TVs offer music and sport. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. (150 - 350Kč). PK

The Pack I-5, Praha 1, Ve Smečkách 21, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 222 21 02 80, www.thepack.cz. Tailor made for its fans with scantily clad waitresses, flat screen TVs in every room, Guinness and Strongbow (90/85Kč) on tap, a full English breakfast with Heinz beans, and opening hours to cater for sports from all continents. A higher class of pub food is also available from wings (150Kč) and burgers (250Kč) to the massive double filet mignon (950Kč). Gambrinus 55Kč. Q Open Mon & Fri 09:00 - 02:00; Tue - Thu 12:00 - 02:00; Sat, Sun 06:30 - 02:00. JAK

Venue 73 I-1, Praha 7, Veletržní 73, MVltavská, tel. (+420) 728 13 99 03, www.venue73.cz. In addi-tion to two (real) dart boards, 7 TVs and one big screen, semi-pri vate booths in the VIP room wi th individual screens, English bacon, sausages (full breakfast from 99Kč), Colman's mustard and Branston pickle, they will reputedly have live online betting and Sky High Definition. The fabled curries never materialised, but the Sunday roast (195Kč) and other Brit goodies more than satisfy. Gambrinus 25Kč, Pilsner Urquell 30Kč. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (30 - 200Kč). K

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The largest collection of wonders in the city, Prague castle is an amalgamation of architecture from different periods. From the almost pastoral serenity of St. George’s Basilica, to the awe-inspiring Gothic power of St. Vitus Cathedral, the castle has attractions for all - history and architecture plus marching soldiers and entertainment.

Approach & Entry A-1, Praha 1, Hradčany, tel. 224 37 33 68, www.hrad.cz. There are two information centres, one in the second courtyard and one in the third. Here you can find out what time the changing of the guard takes place, buy tickets and get audio guides. There are four ways to approach the castle. By far the best way is to take tram N°22 to the Pohořelec stop, where you start with breathtaking views of Prague from Strahov Monastery; then walk down through beautiful Hradčanská district along Loretánská towards the main castle entrance on Hradčanské náměstí. You can skip the Hradčanská walk by getting off the tram earlier, at the Pražský hrad stop, from where you enter the second courtyard. Alternatively, walk up Nerudova and the steep hill from Malostranské náměstí. The worst approach is up the Staré zámecké schody steps near Malostranská metro station; these are best kept for the way down. Q Buildings & Info: From 1 November - 31 March: open 09:00 - 16:00. Court-yards (admission free) open 06:00 - 23:00. Castle gardens and Jelení příkop are closed. From 1 April - 31 October: open 09:00 - 18:00. Courtyards (admission free) open 05:00 - 24:00. Castles gardens and Jeleni prikop 10:00 - 18:00. Admission to the Old Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica, Powder Tower, Picture Gallery and Golden Lane: 350Kč (long tour.) Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica and Golden Lane: 250Kč (short tour.) Reductions for families.

Sternberg Palace (Šternberský palác) Hradčanské nám. 15. Sharing an entrance with the Archbishop’s Palace is the Šternberský palác from 1698. It’s part of the National Gallery and home to a collection of European art, including Rubens and Rembrandt. In 1991 thieves stole US$2.6 million worth of Picassos. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

First courtyard Pause at the castle gates to admire the soldiers’ uniforms (designed by the wardrobe designer of the film Amadeus), and hopefully see the changing of the guard. Then move into the courtyard flanking the presidential rooms, which are not open to the public. These are numerous and include the Spanish Hall, once the venue for meetings of the Czechoslovak Communist Party. As you walk through the archway, the steps on your right are where many of the official greetings are made to visiting heads of state.

Second courtyard Reconstructed by Empress Maria Theresa, this courtyard acts as an intersection point for two of the entrances into the castle. You can exit under the archway to reach the Stag Moat, Royal Gardens and trams N°22 and 23.

St. Vitus Cathedral (Kat-edrála svatého Víta) Moving into the third courtyard of the castle you’ll face one of Eu-rope’s great Gothic cathedrals. St. Vitus is the spiritual heart of the nation as the mausoleum of Bohemian kings and the city’s greatest landmark. Work on the present cathedral was started in 1344 but it wasn’t consecrated until 1929. Check out Mucha’s stained glass window and the door with seven locks leading to the crown jewels. Don’t miss the beautiful mosaic depicting the Last Judgment of Christ on the exterior of the cathedral. The mosaic is 84 square metres and was created in 1371. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00.

Old Royal Palace (Starý královský palác). One of the oldest and most impressive parts of the castle, the Old Royal Palace dates from 1135 and was the seat of Bohemian princes. From the 13th to the 16th century it was the king’s palace. The magnificent Vladislav Hall was used for banquets, councils, coronations and even jousting. All presidents have been sworn in here, and this building was where the 1618 defenestration took place. The palace contains The Story of Prague Castle exhibition. Don’t forget to have a look at the Rampart Gardens below. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 120/60Kč.

Golden Lane (Zlatá ulička) The phrase ‘pic-turesque street’ might have been invented to describe this tiny cobbled lane with its miniature workers’ cottages - now shops. It was on this street, or so legend has it, that 16th-century alchemists laboured to discover the Philosopher’s Stone to make gold from lead. Franz Kafka spent evenings at his sister’s house, N°22. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00.

Daliborka Tower Built in 1496 and used as a prison till the end of 18th century, the tower stands on your left as you exit the Golden Lane. It is so named for its first prisoner, Dalibor of Kozojedy, whose story was told by Smetana in his 1868 opera Dalibor. The underground cell is truly terrifying. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00.

Royal Gardens & Stag Moat (Královská zahrada) North of the castle walls are a succession of orderly and manicured gardens. They were first laid out in 1534 and are home to the Míčovna or Ball Game Hall, the most ornate sports centre we’ve ever seen. Further along the eastern edge of the castle area you can find the Renaissance summer palace (Královský letohrádek), where Europe’s first tulips, a present from Turkey, were cultivated. The views over the castle and city are great from here. The Stag Moat (Jelení příkop, open 09:00 - 16:00) below the ramparts of the castle was reopened to the general public by President Vaclav Havel. Despite the name there hasn’t been a stag here since ravenous soldiers gobbled up the last of them by the 17th century. The gardens on the southern side of the castle can be entered via steps to the right of the main castle gate. The main garden on the southern side is the ramparts garden (Zahrada Na Valech), which overlooks Malá Strana. The Rampart Gardens are bordered to the west by the Paradise Garden (Rajská zahrada) and on the south to the Hartig Garden (Hartigovská zahrada), which surrounds the Music Pavilion (Hudební pavilon).QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed in winter

PRAGUE CASTLEThe essentials of Prague - if you see nothing else, do not miss these sights. Obviously in this city that has been a destination for hundreds of years, there is much to see and do, and one of the most enjoyable aspects is just wandering around. Don’t forget to look up as the gilded spires are rightfully what Prague is renowned for. But keep an eye of the ground too - dog owners are not renowned for their cleaning-up ability.

Charles Bridge (Karlův m o s t ) C - 3 , P r a h a 1 , MStaroměstská. Karlův most joins Staré Město (Old Town) and the Malá Strana (Little Quarter) and is one of the world’s most beauti ful bridges. The bridge was built

in 1357, but the figures of saints were added during the 17th century. They symbolise the confidence of the Catholic Austrian’s triumph over the Protestant Hussites. The bridge is thronged all day with tourists, while at night it offers wonderful views of the illuminated castle and Old Town. Go at dawn to be alone and witness the saints emerging from the mist.

Municipal House (Obec-ní Dům) F-3, Praha 1, nám. Republiky 5, MNám. Re-publiky, tel. 222 00 21 27, www.obecnidum.cz. The magnificent Obecní Dům build-ing holds two restaurants, a super café, an American bar, a gallery, shop and clas-

sical music venue. Built between 1905 and 1910 in the architecturally stunning Art Nouveau style, the Municipal House has been painstakingly restored to its former glory. It was here that the Czechoslovakian state was signed into being on October 28, 1918. It was also here in 1989 that communist bureaucrats and revolution leaders of the Civic Forum discussed the velvet transfer of power and the state’s transformation to democracy.

National Theatre (Národ-ní divadlo) C-4, Národní 2, MNárodní třída, tel. 224 90 14 48. This lavish neo-Renaissance building on the bank of the Vltava, with its golden crown of chariot-driving women, is Prague’s National

Theatre. The building was completed in 1881 and was almost immediately destroyed by fire. It reopened in 1883. See Events for the current programme.

O l d To w n S q u a r e ( S t a r o m ě s t s k é náměstí) E-3, Praha 1, MStaroměstská. The indis-putable heart of Prague. This vast open space is flanked by a pleasing blend of carefully restored architectural styles: Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and neo-styles. The square is notable for its constant hum of activity, day and night, and a long history as centre stage for so many of the city’s defining moments, from the execution of preacher J. Želivský in 1422,

to the attacks on Soviet tanks with Molotov cocktails in 1968. Towering above the square, half-hidden behind a row of houses, is the fairy-turreted Týn Church. The centrepiece of the square is a memorial to Jan Hus. It was draped in swastikas by the Nazis and in black cloth to mourn the passing of the Prague Spring.

Town Hall & Astronomi-cal clock (Staromest-ská radnice) E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám., MStaroměstská. The 14th century Town Hall complex features a tower with an as-tronomical clock, added in the 15th century. Every hour on the hour Jesus and his disciples lead a pageant that includes the allegorical figures of Death, the Turk, the Miser, the Fool and the Rooster. I t sounds more impressive than it actu-ally is, but it’s still worth a look. The climb or lift up the tower

is rewarded by the stunning views. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00. Admission 60/40Kč.

Vyšehrad H-7, Praha 2, Soběslavova 1, MVyšehrad. The rocky cli ff-top boasts Prague’s second castle. In the hearts and minds of many Czechs, Vyšehrad symbolises the birth of the Czech nation and is shrouded in legend and myth. This is apparently the spot where Princess Libuše stood and predicted the rise of a great city. Literally translated as ‘high castle’, it was probably founded in the middle of the 10th century. In 972 Prince

Boleslav II built the royal mint here, and in 1085 Vratislav II selected it as his residence. Over the following centuries successive kings remodelled the palace and fortress, but moved their permanent home across the river. Within the fortress confines is the national cemetery (Vyšehradský hřbitov), which from the 1870s became the final resting place of many of the most famous Czech writers and composers, including Jan Neruda, Bedřich Smetana and Antonín Dvořák. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30.

Wenceslas Squar e (Václavské náměstí ) F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám., MMůstek. Václavské náměstí is actually a boule-vard running down from the National Museum and the equestrian statue of Saint Wenceslas to Můstek, former-ly the site of a city gate and drawbridge. This is where crowds traditionally come to demonstrate against their incompetent rulers, and this was where, in 1989, thousands gathered to shake their keys in celebration of the death of the Communist Party. Rows of shops, hotels (note the Art Nouveau glory of Hotel Europa) and nightclubs flank the pavements, and by night it can get a bit sleasy. Thankfully, there are plans to rid the square of cars, bury the highway in front of the museum in a tunnel and have tram N°11 make a come-back.

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ChurchesB e t h l e h e m C h a p e l ( B e t l é m s k á K a p l e ) D-3, Praha 1, Betlémské náměstí, MStaroměstská. From 1402 to 1412, Jan Hus preached at the Bethlehem Chapel, hence it's significance for non-Catholics, but in 1622, the Jesuits took control of the chapel and Catholic mass became the service of the day. Then in 1786 it was levelled, only to be rebuilt (somewhat strangely) by the communists, who had preserved its archi-

tectural plans in 1950. Apparently, they were keen to exploit the chapel's symbolism as an historic emblem of Czech national pride. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon.

Church of Our Lady Victorious B-3, Praha 1, Karmel-itská 9, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 53 36 46, www.prag-jesu.info. This house of worship was built by German Lutherans between 1611-1615. To the right of the entrance is a commemorative site to the 16th century Spanish nun, St. Therese of Avila, who along with friar John of the Cross, reformed the Carmelite order into what is known as the Discalced Carmelites. Further inside is the church's claim to fame, a 45cm high wax statuette of Jesus known as the Infant Jesus of Prague, which is a pilgrimage site of sorts - for its historical and religious importance, and a couple of unnamed miracles that have been attached to it. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 08:30 - 20:00.

Loreta A-1, Praha 1, Loren-tánské nám. 7. One of the country's most famous places of pilgrimage, this chapel is just a quick walk from the main entrance to the castle. Built between 1626-1720, this Baroque building contains, among other icons and ob-jects, a painting of a bearded lady, ornate friezes, bejewelled icons and a high quota of chubby-cheeked cherubs. The small museum also houses a

collection of diamond ostensories. Within the main chapel

there is the brickwork supposedly from the original Loreto in Italy which was flown over from Italy by some well-meaning angels. Blasphemers take note - the split in the wall was sup-posedly caused by a thunderbolt fired off at one of your kind. Q Open 09:00 - 12:15, 13:00 - 16:30. Admission 110/90Kč.

Our Lady of Snow (U Panny Marie Sněžné) E-4, Praha 1, Jungmannovo nám, MMůstek. The towering Gothic torso hidden near Vá-clavské náměstí was started off in 1347 by Charles IV as a Carmelite order monastery.

Construction was stopped by the Hussites in 1419, and only the 34m-high choir of the planned 110m-long church was finished. The Franciscans renovated the ruins of the church in 1604, adding the magnificent Renaissance altar. The peace-ful adjacent monastery gardens (Františkánská zahrada) are an excellent place to soak up the sun.

St. Ignatius Church (Kostel Sv. Ignáce) H-5, Praha 2, Ječná 2, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. (+420) 224 92 12 54. The construction of what was intended to be a basilica began in 1665 on these very grounds. In 1671 the church alongside Karlovo Square was finally completed and the large statue of Saint Ignatius, the founder of the Jesuit order, was placed on top. The church is still active and run by Jesuit monks.

St. Nicholas Church B-2, Praha1, Malostranské nám. 38, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 224 19 09 91. Con-struction of this Baroque pile began in 1673, but it would be nearly another 80 years until the Jesuits completed it. Peer closely at the copper statue of St. Nicholas above the gold coated altar; the two statues below him are of St. Ignatius Loyola and St. Francis Xavier. The ceiling fresco depicts

the apotheosis of St. Nicholas. Also of interest is the organ, which has 2500 pipes and 44 registers, and it was these very ivories that Mozart tinkled on his visit to Prague. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 70/50Kč.

Strahov Monastery Praha 1, Strahovské nádvoří 1, tel. (+420) 233 10 77 18, www.strahovskyklaster.cz. The Strahov Monastery has stood on the approach to the castle since 1140. Today, this Ro-manesque monastery houses various museums for religious arts and is home to the quite stunning central chapel. The Museum of Czech Literature (open 09:00 - 12:00; 13:00 -

17:00, admission 50Kč), is housed in the monastic libraries. The Theological and Philosophical Halls are superb but can only be viewed from the doorways. Items available for closer inspection are manuscripts from the 14th century, a stuffed dodo, and a large collection of crabs, fish, shells and insects. The Strahov Gallery in the central courtyard (open 09:00 - 17:00, admission 35Kč) has one of the finest collections of monastic art in Central Europe. Trams N°22,23 to Pohořelec. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 60/40Kč.

Sts. Cyril and Methodius Church H-5, Praha 1, Resslova 9, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. (+420) 224 92 06 86. This Orthodox church was built in honour of Sts. Cyril and Methodius, the men responsible for the Slavonic alphabet. However, most people know about this church because of what happened here at 04:10 on the morning of June 18, 1942 when the Nazis had discovered that the seven Czech parachutists involved in the assassination of Reichsprotektor Heydrich were hiding in the crypt. The west side of Karlovo náměstí was cordoned off by 800 troops from the SS and the Gestapo. Three of the soldiers died as the SS stormed the church. The remaining four fought on. After hours of shoot-ing and a long stand-off which led to the Germans deciding to literally flush them out, they used their last bullets on each other. The bullet-scarred exterior wall holds a plaque in honour of their bravery. Q Crypt open 10:00 - 17:00; Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

Museums & GalleriesCity Museum (Muzeum hlavního města Prahy) B-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 52, tel. (+420) 224 81 67 72, www.muzeumprahy.cz. This homage to the city of a hundred spires includes a paper model of the city that took 11 years to create and a gigantic model of the entire city at the beginning of the 19th century. This wood and paper model was made from 1829-1837 by Antonin Langweil and is a highlight to the museum. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 110/40Kč.

Cubism Museum F-3, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 19, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 21 17 46, www.ngprague.cz. The angular grace of 1920s cubism is apparent in the minimalist and abstract lines of the sculptures, paintings, furniture, ceramics and architecture on show at this small but delightful museum. Cubism in the Czech Republic permeated all aspects of design, applied arts and graphics, which is beau-tifully illustrated by the variety of exhibits. The House at the Black Madonna, which houses the museum, was built in 1911 as a department store and is itself a monument to Cubism. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100/50Kč.

Czech Museum of Fine Arts (České muzeum výtvarných umění v Praze) D-3, Praha 1, Husova 19 - 21, tel. (+420) 222 22 02 18, www.cmvu.cz. Large collection of fine arts including classics and more modern works. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50Kč.

Decorative Arts Museum (UpM) D-2, Praha 1, 17. listopadu 2, tel. (+420) 251 09 31 35, www.upm.cz. Basically, this is a museum of stuff. Its permanent exhibit showcases what normal articles (clocks, ceramics, glass, clothing, photographs, furniture) from the 19th-20th century. You won’t bump into philosopher Emmanuel Kant here; he believed that an esthetic object is only art if it has no use (he’s also long dead). Built in 1899 in commemoration of Franz Josef becoming emperor, the building itself is impressive, too. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 80/40Kč. A

DOX Centre for Contemporary Art Praha 7, Osadní 34, tel. (+420) 224 93 09 27, [email protected], www.doxprague.org. Opened in October 2008; DOX is sure to make a splash on Prague’s still burgeoning contem-porary art scene. The building itself is amazing - a mix of old metal factory and new build right in the heart of industrial Holešovice. Organizers plan to showcase present contem-porary art from around the world; as well as offer exposure to Czech contemporary artists. QOpen , Mon, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. Adults: 120kč Children: 80kč.

Dvořák Museum I-6, Praha 2, Ke Karlovu 20, tel. (+420) 224 92 33 63, www.nm.cz. The Dvořák Museum is housed in the so-called Villa America, a Baroque summer palace designed by Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer, who was also responsible for the beautiful St. Nicholas Church in Malá Strana. This museum houses a good collection of memorobilia from the life and work of Dvořák, the Czech composer famous for the New World Symphony, among others. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 40Kč.

Dvorak Sec Contemporary E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 5, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 604 20 46 53, [email protected], www.dvoraksec.com. In addition to displaying their own collections, the new gallery space in Old Town offers young and emerging artists as well as more established international artists. Their newly reconstructed building is an amazing space in itself. QOpen 9:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Futura Praha 5, Holečkova 49, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 251 51 18 04, www.futuraproject.com. This non-profit gallery was opened in June 2003 to provide an accessible space for contemporary art. Three floors of a renovated factory. Tram 4, 7, 9, 10 to Bertramka. Q Open Wed - Sun 11:00 - 18:00.

Galerie Jaroslava Fragnera D-4, Praha 1, Betlémské náměstí 5a, tel. (+420) 222 22 21 57, www.gjf.cz. An exhibition hall showcasing, for the most part, the artistic ele-ments of architecture. The gallery works in partnership with the Czech Architecture Foundation and exhibits fine examples of groundbreaking Czech and international architectural mar-vels. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 40/20.

Galerie La Femme E-2, Praha 1, Bílkova 2, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 224 81 26 56, www.glf.cz. A small but fully laden gallery celebrating woman as eternal inspiration, although the myriad pieces hanging, stacked or free standing have subjects beyond women. Vibrant oils, tactile sculptures, evocative sketches, international exhibi-tions and more make La Femme a place to explore and buy. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.

Galerie Václava Špály Praha 1, Národní 30, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 94 67 38, www.spalovka.cz. The Galerie Václava Špály is once again open to the public and promising the same prestigious exhibitions it was once renowned for. Špála was a Czech avant-garde painter from the early 20th century. The museum’s heyday was in the late 60’s-early 70’s, and again after 1989. The beginning of the new century saw a change in management and vision. Now, it’s back and the art scene will be richer for it. Expect a wide-variety of contemporary art from both foreign and local artists. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/10Kč.

Gallery KusKovu J-3, Praha 1, Biskupský dvůr 6, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 737 20 01 27, www.kus-kovu.cz. The Piece of Metal gallery is a blacksmith’s delight, showing and selling metal sculptures, objects and jewellery. QOpen 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

Historical Museum A-1, Praha 1, Pražský hrad, Jiřská 3, tel. (+420) 257 53 59 79, www.nm.cz. Lobkovický Palac, in the castle area, dates back to the 9th century and the origins of the castle itself. The palace, which was restored during the Renaissance, now houses the Historical Museum, which, as its name implies, gives a detailed history of the country until 1848. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 40Kč.

Around Prague Information Centre E-3, Praha 1, Celetná 14, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 224 49 17 64/(+420) 224 49 17 22, www.aroundprague.cz. Tickets, accommodation, sightseeing tours, guidebooks, maps and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.

Prague Info E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 1, (Old Town Hall), MStaroměstské, www.prague-info.cz. This excellent official tourist information centre pro-vides vocal and written information in various languages from helpful and knowledgeable staff, plus tickets, excur-sions, and accommodation. For general information in English, Czech or German call tel. 124 44. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30. Also at I-3, Praha hlavní nádraží & B-2, Praha 1, Malá Strana Tower, open 10:00 - 18:00.

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House at the White Unicorn (Dům u bílého jednorožce) E-3, Praha 1, Staromestské nám. 15, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 39 09, www.daliexhibition.cz. This central exhibition space caters to the big names, and not only in Czech art. Much to the delight of the world’s moustache aficionados, this house is exhibiting a selection of graphics, sculpture and pottery from Salvador Dali. Another area is dedicated to Alfons Mucha, the master of Art Nouveau while a neighbouring house (E-3, Praha 1, Celetná 9, tel. 222 31 30 64) hosts a selection of images from the infamous photographer Jan Saudek. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 150/70Kč. Saudek & Mucha 150/70Kč or 250/120Kč combined ticket.

Jewellery Collection C-2, Praha 1, Cihelná 2b, tel. (+420) 221 45 13 33. The Hergetova cihelna (brickyard building) near Karlův most, houses an exhibition from the collection of the Museum of Decorative Arts. This incredible array of pieces illustrating the the art of jewellery design from the 17th century includes items from Fabergé and Tiffany. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.

Jiří Světská Gallery J-3, Praha 1, Biskupský dvůr 6, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 31 10 92, www.jirisvestka.com. A private gallery that promotes modern and contemporary art in the Czech Republic and internation-ally and has garnered renown by introducing Czech artists to major galleries overseas. In addition to their collections, and exhibitions, it has a large collection of art periodicals plus art and architectural titles in Czech and English. Q Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun & Mon.

Kafka Museum C-2, Praha 1, Hergetova Cihelna, Ci-helná 2b, tel. (+420) 257 53 55 07, www.kafkamuseum.cz. This new collection entitled The City of K. Franz Kafka and Prague opened in Barcelona in 1999, transferred to the

Jewish Museum in New York in 2002 and opened in Prague in the summer of 2005. This museum illuminates the crucial relationship between the man and the city. It is divided into Existential Space where we see what Prague did with and to Kafka, and Imaginary Topography which looks at how Kafka creates enigmatic layers of his city through first editions and letters, diaries and manuscripts, and audiovisual pieces. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 120/60Kč.

Kampa Museum B-3, Praha 1, U Sovových mlýnů 2, tel. (+420) 257 28 61 47, www.museumkampa.cz. Museum Kampa is located on the west bank of the Vltava in the shadow of Prague Castle. The museum has on display three major permanent exhibitions, featuring works by the pioneering abstract artist František Kupka, Cubist sculptor Otto Gutfreund and a large collection of modern works dating from the 1950’s to present day by Central European artists. They also have temporary exhibits. The museum has a beau-tiful restaurant with an outside terrace overlooking the river. A visit to Museum Kampa is definitely worthwhile. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission varies according to exhibition.

Langhans Galerie I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 37, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 222 92 93 33, www.lang-hansgalerie.cz. The sleek lined, clean-cut minimalism of a award-winning symbiosis of old and new architecture is complemented beautifully by the photographic exhibitions hanging on its walls. Behind the Foto Škoda store, which in itself is a museum of old and new cameras. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 60/20Kč.

Leica Gallery Praha 1, Školská 28, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 608 96 35 24, www.lgp.cz. Their new Gallery will be open again on 7 May. Check out their cafe, bookshop, and of course some of the best photo exhibits in town. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

Mánes Exhibition Hall G-5, Praha 1, Masarykovo nábřeží 250, tel. (+420) 224 93 0 7 54, www.nadace-cfu.cz. A major exhibition space for all forms of modern and contemporary art from the Czech Art Fund Foundation. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Miniatures Museum Praha 1, Strahovské nádvoří 11, tel. (+420) 233 35 23 71, www.muzeumminiatur.com. This museum contains odd scribblings on grains of rice, the Lord’s Prayer written on one human hair, the world’s smallest book, and minitures of masterpieces. They have magnifying glasses. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 50Kč.

Mozart Museum (Bertramka) Praha 5, Mozartova 169, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 257 31 67 53, www.bertramka.cz. This museum, dedicated to the Austrian Wunderkind and the family he lived with in Prague, is located in a 17th century villa. The villa, owned by the Dušek family, is where Mozart wrote Don Giovanni. There’s a bust of the famed composer in the villa gardens, and music scores and concert posters are preserved inside. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00. Admission 110/50Kč.

Mucha Museum F-4, Praha 1, Panská 7, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 221 45 13 33, www.mucha.cz. Mucha shaped the Art Nouveau movement with his groundbreaking (and often stolen from Paris’ streets) posters for actress Sarah Bernhardt and the Theatre de la Renaissance, and has some renown as a photographer with the studies for his various masterpieces. He also has an excellent shot of a trouserless Paul Gauguin at a harmonium. A fitting tribute to artistic genius, whether you prefer his pastel seasons, the accusing desperation of the Slav Epic (his incomplete and huge magnum opus of which there are strangely no photos), or modern prints on everything from coasters to mousepads. Don’t miss the short biographical film. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 120Kč.

Museum of Communism F-4, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 10, tel. (+420) 224 21 29 66, www.muzeumkomunismu.cz. The posters featuring the workers of the state, featuring a mix of socialist-realism which produces simultaneous hilarity and dark brooding, are almost worth the entrance fee on their own. Errant and erratic household objects can give this place an incomplete feel, however, the photos and historical information on display are a minimalist introduc-tion to the events of this period. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 180Kč.

Muzeum Karlova Mostu (Charles Bridge Museum) D-3, Praha 1, Kř ížovnické nám. 3, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 739 30 95 51, www.muzeumkarlovamostu.cz. This new museum, opened to coincide with the 650th anniversary of the building of Charles Bridge in 1357 (the clever number logo is no coincidence, 135797531. The first stone was laid at 05:31 on 9 July). English texts are available to explain the unique Knights of the Red Cross hospital location, their church and crypt, various bridges; an arch and pillar of the even older (1158 - 1172) Judit Bridge, and others in the region, construction techniques, etc. Charles Bridge, with its statues and history, is the focus but there is so much more. Fascinating. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. 150/70Kč.

Prague’s Jewish community was one of the oldest in Europe, and rich in history, legend and tragedy. Here, the story goes, Rabbi Loew created the Golem nearly half a millennium ago. The community was confined to a ghetto until 1781 when Josef II issued the Edict of Tolerance, which per-mitted the free exercise of religion and the secularisation of education, science and art. The Jewish town is called Josefov to this day in his honour. From the 1880s, in the name of slum-clearing, most of Josefov was razed to the ground and only a few synagogues, the cemetery and the Josefov town hall remained. Wide new streets with grand Art Nouveau buildings emerged in place of the decrepit old tenement buildings. Later still, the Nazis all but annihilated Prague’s Jewish legacy, saving the monuments as their planned epitaph to a vanished culture. The post-war communists did little to alleviate the persecution - many of the remaining Jew-ish inhabitants chose to emigrate.

Jewish Museum (Židovské muzeum) E-2, Praha 1, U Staré školy 1, tel. 221 71 15 62, www.jewishmu-seum.cz. The starting point for an exploration of Prague’s Jewish past and present. Unfortunately, the idea for a museum encompassing the Jewish Quarter is not new. The reason that the main buildings and cemetery in the Jewish Quarter are still intact, is that Hitler intended to transform the quarter into an epitaph to a vanished culture. The Jewish Museum supervises the Old Jewish Cemetery, the Old Ceremonial Hall, and the Pinkas, Klausen, Maisel and Spanish Synagogues, but not the Old New Synagogue, although you can buy a combined ticket for entry to all. The high admission price causes many budget-conscious visi-tors turn away at the gates, but despite this, you’ll need to go early to avoid the crowds. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat. Admission 300/200Kč for all sights.

Klausen Synagogue (Klausenová synagoga) D-2, Praha 1, U Starého hřbitova 3A. A Judaic Baroque build-ing which houses a permanent exhibition showing Jewish customs and traditions - and the occasional art exhibition. Next door is the Ceremonial Hall.

Maisel Synagogue (Maiselova synagoga) E-2, Praha 1, Maiselova 10. Maisel Synagogue is home to a large collec-tion of silverware, previously confiscated from Jewish families by the Nazis. Their permanent exhibition, The History of Jews in Bohemia and Moravia, is definitely worth a visit.

Pinkas Synagogue (Pinkasova synagoga) D-2, Praha 1, Široká 3. The walls inside Pinkas Synagogue are chillingly covered with the names of 77,297 Jewish Holocaust victims from Bohemia and Moravia. There is also a permanent exhibition of children’s drawings from Terezin concentration camp, drawn between 1942 and 1944.

Old Jewish Cemetery (Starý židovský hřbitov) D-2, Praha 1, Široká 2, (entrance from Pinkas Syna-gogue). From the 14th century until 1747, this was the final resting place for Prague’s Jewish community; some 12,000 graves are said to be piled one on top of the other. Oldest and most famous is that of Rabbi Loew, which is the grave with the most pebbles piled on top of it - a Jewish tradition. To visit the cemetery, men will have to cover their heads; kippas are provided at the entrance.

Spanish Synagogue (Španělská synagoga) E-2, Praha 1, Dušní 12. This neo-Moorish structure was built in 1868 to replace the previously demolished Old Synagogue. It is a beautiful building outside and in, with a domed ceiling, Islamic motifs and stained glass. Restored in 1998, the synagogue houses an exhibition on the history of Czech Jews.

Old New Synagogue (Staronová synagoga) E-2, Praha 1, Červená 2. Of all the synagogues in Prague, this is perhaps the most important. It has stood here since the 13th century, and despite fires, floods and the Nazi occupation, remains today the functional, spiritual centre of the Jewish community. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat. Admission 200Kč.

High Synagogue (Vysoká synagoga) E-2, Praha 1, Červená 4. The High Synagogue is no longer open to the public. It is next to the Old New Synagogue - note the clock on the façade of the pink building next door; it has Hebrew numbers and turns counter-clockwise.

New Jewish Cemetery (Židovské hřbitovy) Praha 3, Vinohradská, MŽelivského, tel. 272 74 18 93. Much larger and much less visited than the Old Town Cemetery. Founded in 1890, it has some impressive graves from the early 1900s. Franz Kafka is buried at grave N°137.

Žižkov Jewish Ceme-tery Prague 3, Fibichova. Only a peaceful small corner remains of this Jewish cem-etary at the foot of the TV tower. Originally a plague cemetary established well away from the city limits in 1680, 40,000 people were buried here until 1890. Baroque, Empire and Romantic style tombstones survived the ages. Q Open Tue & Thu 09:00 - 13:00. Admission 20Kč.

Jubilee Synagogue (Jubilejní synagoga) I-4, Praha 1, Jeruzalémská 1310/7, tel. 222 31 90 02. The newest, biggest, and arguably most spectacular of Prague’s synagogues, the Jubilee Synagogue is so called because i t was decided upon on the 50th an-niversary of the accession of Franz Joseph I. Buil t in pseudo-Moorish style and dedicated on 16 Sept 1906 during the festival of Simhat Torah, the synagogue has a service on Sat at 09:00 and is open to visi-tors from 23 Apr - 31 Oct from 13:00 - 17:00 (except Saturdays).

Prague’s Schindler Three trainloads of Jewish children were able to escape from German-occupied Prague in the spring and summer of 1939, before war broke out, thanks to the effor ts of the man dubbed (post-Spielberg, of course) the Schindler of Prague. Bill Barazetti, together with a British stockbroker, arranged papers and transport for three trainloads of children - the Kindertransporte - to leave the city and travel via the Netherlands to safety in London. A fourth train left Prague on the eve of the war but i t never reached the Netherlands and was not heard of again. In August 1939 Barazetti fled to Britain, but i t was 50 years before his story became known.

Jewish Prague

70 WHAT TO SEE


71WHAT TO SEE


National Museum (Národní muzeum) F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 68, tel. (+420) 224 49 71 11, www.nm.cz. Permanent exhibitions include pre-historical, mineralogical, palaeontological, zoological, and there is a good collection of bronze statues of famous Czechs is in the pantheon of the building. One of the most celebrated build-ings in Prague, but its exhibits are not nearly as impressive. QOpen 9:00 - 17:00, Wed 9:00 - 20:00. Closed every first Tue of the month. Admission 150/100Kč.

Robert Guttmann Gallery (Jewish Museum) E-2, Praha 1, U Staré školy 3, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 221 71 15 11, www.jewishmuseum.cz. As synagogues and prayer rooms began to be demolished by Prague’s mu-nicipal offices at the end of the 19th century, the Czech-Jewish community applied their vigour to creating a Jewish Museum wherein ritual objects could be saved from destruction and kept for future generations. Thus, in 1906 Prague’s Jewish Museum began with a modest collection. Today, it is celebrat-ing its centenary with an exhibit here entitled Defying the Beast (until 1 Oct). The museum is closed on Jewish holidays too. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Admission 40/20Kč.

Rudolf inum D-2, Praha 1 , A l š o v o n á b ř . 1 2 , MStaromětská, tel. (+420) 227 05 92 05, www.gal-erierudolfinum.cz. Commis-sioned as concert halls and exhibition space and named after the Austrian Prince Royal

who attended the opening in 1885, this is now home to the Czech Philharmonic and an exhibition space. With no permanent collection, the gallery is dedicated to temporary exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30, Thu 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 120/60Kč. U

Smetana Museum C-3, Praha 1, Novotného lávka 1, tel. (+420) 222 22 00 82, www.nm.cz. Classical ap-preciation goes high tech. When you point the special laser conductor’s baton at music stands in this museum, excerpts from Smetana’s works come to life. Bedřich Smetana was a Czech symphonic poet, whose masterpiece was the nation-alistic My Fatherland, which includes a musical ode to the Vltava. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00&12:30-17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 50/20Kč.

Stone Bell House (Dům u kammenného zvonu) E-3, Praha 1, Staromětská nám. 13, MStaromětská, tel. (+420) 222 32 76 77, www.citygalleryprague.cz. The oldest Gothic house in Prague, hidden for years behind a neo-Baroque facade, has been superbly restored and now houses commendable art exhibitions run by the City Gallery of Prague. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 120/60Kč.

The Chemistry Gallery K-5, Praha 2, U Kanálky 4, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 773 58 80 75, [email protected], www.thechemistry.cz. A funky recon-verted flat is home to a cool new gallery. See art, buy art, The Chemistry Gallery is dedicated to promoting young contemporary artists of all genres. An ambitious rotating schedule of events means the work is always fresh and creative. QOpen , Wed, Thu, Fri 13:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

Torture Museum B-2, Praha 1, Mostecká 21, tel. (+420) 603 88 93 61. Medieval torture instruments from all parts of Europe. Take the kids to show them how nice you actually are. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 120/100Kč.

Transport Museum Praha 6, Patočkova 4, MHradcan-ská, tel. (+420) 296 12 49 00, www.dpp.cz/muzeum-mhd. See beautifully restored classic trams and buses from the glory days of Prague trolleys in this converted depot. Read the history and see the uniforms, old advertising hoardings, maps and photographs. The historical tram (N°91, hourly from 12:00 - 18:00) leaves from here on a journey past the castle and Václavské náměsti. Q Open Sat, Sun and public holidays only 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 35/20.

Troja Chateau Praha 1, U trojského zámku 1, MNádraží Holešovice, tel. (+420) 283 85 16 14, www.citygalleryprague.cz. A grand 17th century summer palace built for Count Václav Vojtěch Šternberg, Troja has French gardens littered with

Baroque sculptures right on the river below the Botanical gardens and next to the Zoo. It was originally situated here to be opposite Stromovka royal game preserve (now Stromovka Park), which it is linked to today by a pedestrian bridge, but be warned it is no short walk to the closest tram stop once you start. Jean-Baptiste Mathey designed the palace, which Šternberg spared no expense on. Its most striking feature is the external double staircase ornamented by statues of Titanic struggles with Olympian gods. The interior is no less impressive with magnificent vaulted ceilings, paintings, sculptures, murals and frescoes - especially the giant, florid tribute to a Hapsburg victory in the Grand Hall. After major reconstruction of the house and garden in 1998, the Chateau became an annex of the City Gallery, housing a collection of Baroque glass and a collection of 19th century Czech paint-ings. Troja was hard hit in the 2002 floods, but the gardens and house are back in their former glory. From the metro, hop on tram 5, 17, 25 to Trojská or bus 112 to the Zoo. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 120/60Kč, gardens free.

Veletržní Palace (National Gallery) I-1, Praha 7, Dukelských hrdinů 47, MVltavská, tel. (+420) 224 30 11 11, www.ngprague.cz. The stunning modernist Veletržní Palace houses the National Gallery’s collection of modern and contemporary art, including works by Klimt and Frank Gehry. The building is so big that they split entrance fees by how many of its three floors you wish to visit. Tram N°5,12,17 to Veletržní. The space also hosts concerts now. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 160/80.

City toursBest Tour Praha 7, U Uranie 17, tel. (+420) 284 81 41 41, www.besttour.cz. Their basic two-hour bus tour of the city costs 350Kč/person and leaves daily at 10:00, 14:00 and 16:00 from F-4, Václavské nám. 27. Q 24 hours. A

Cityrama Prague I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 21, tel. (+420) 222 23 02 08, 602 218 469, fax (+420) 222 23 24 29, [email protected], www.cityrama.cz. Explore the Golden Heart of Europe with various sightseeing tours in Prague and beyond. The City Tour (daily 09:30 and 14:00) joins boat tours, night explorations, excursions around the country and the region. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. A

Martin Tour I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 61, tel. (+420) 224 21 24 73, fax (+420) 224 23 97 52, www.martintour.cz. Their short city bus tour starts at 250Kč per person.

Prague Sightseeing Tours I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská 52, tel. (+420) 222 31 46 61/(+420) 602 37 55 52, fax (+420) 222 31 80 17, www.pstours.cz. City tours, boat trips and excursions. Q A

Precious Legacy Tours D-2, Praha 1, Kaprova 13, tel./fax (+420) 222 32 19 54, www.legacytours.cz. Besides doing the run-of-the-mill city tours this company also organises an extensive array of Jewish history and culture tours in Prague and throughout Eastern Europe.

Premiant City Tour H-4, Praha 1, Nekázanka 11, tel. (+420) 224 01 28 20, www.premiant.cz. A variety of tours for a variety of tourists, there are combination bus and walking tours, brief tours, in-depth tours, the rest of the Czech Republic tours and many more. The cheapest is Brief Prague at 250Kč. Q A

CuriositiesDancing Fountains (Křižíkova Fontána) Praha 7, Průmyslový palác (Výstaviště), tel. (+420) 220 10 32 80, www.krizikovafontana.cz. Water and lights accom-panied by music (from Carmina Burana to Queen) and on occasion, people. This is actually far more enthralling than it sounds - really.

L e n n o n Wa l l B - 3 , P r a h a 1 , M a l á S t r a n a , Velkopřevoské nám.. Opposite the French embassy is the Lennon Wall. During the communist era it was here that revolutionaries daubed anti-government slogans thereby running the risk of arrest. Today the wall is cov-ered with graffi ti - poems and words of peace written by millions of visitors from around the world. Not really what i t used to be; but people still visit.

Victims of Communism Memorial A-4, Újezd tram stop. Near the funicular railway station and op-posi te the Újezd tram stop, there is a controversial memorial to the victims of communism. A group of statues by Olbram Zoubek emerge into totali ty as they walk, or are at various stages of destruction, depending how you look at i t. Why are they controversial? Other ar tists say they are ki tschy, while feminists are angry because all the figures are male and they (qui te rightly) claim women were persecuted under the communists regime too. The memorial was damaged by two bomb attacks in late 2003.

Villa Müller Praha 6, Nad Hradním vodojemem 14, tel. (+420) 224 31 20 12, www.mullerovavila.cz. This icon of modern architecture was designed by Moravian-born Adolf Loos for construction magnate František Mül-ler in 1930. The building looks like a solid white block from the outside, though the interior is constructed with marble, mahogany and walnut, highly polished and cleanly designed. The rooms all sit at various levels around an ascending sweeping spiral. Tram N°1,18 to Ořechovka. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri. Admission 300/200Kč, 100Kč extra for an English guide. Tours by appointment only.

Junior PragueAdventure Playground J-4, Praha 1, Vrchlického sady, Opletalova, MHlavní nádraží. The area near Prague's main railway station is slowly being reclaimed from nefarious characters with designer hotels and this superb enclosed kids' playground with activites for kids big and small. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00.

AquaPalace Aqua Park Pražská 138, tel. (+420) 271 10 41 11, [email protected], www.aquapalace.cz. When one more museum will just about do them in; treat the kids to a watery side of Prague. No, we don't mean toss them in the Vltava, but bring them to AquaPalace Aqua Park. Pools, slides, wave pool, whirlpool and a river, plus a variety of saunas and a fitness centre for the adults. Plan on spending the day. Take bus 324, 325, 328, 363 or 385 from the Opatov metro station to the Čestlice stop. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Prices vary depending on the day of the week and the time of day, For two hours on a Saturday it's 300Kč for an adult and 200Kč for a child.

Mirror Labyrinth (Zrcadlové bludiště) A-4, Praha 1, Petřínské sady, tel. (+420) 257 31 52 12. Right next to the Petřín Tower is a hall of mirrors - you may even get your kids to come in if the ice cream vendors haven't caught their eye first. March into the mini-castle to see how you would look if you were short and squat or tall and skinny. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Admission 50 - 70Kč.

Planetarium Praha 7, Královská obora 233, MNádraží Holešovice, tel. (+420) 220 99 90 01, www.planetarium.cz. Prague's planetarium, opened in 1960, is the largest in the Czech Republic and one of the largest in the world. Its astronomical dome can accommodate 250 people and it houses three projectors in one building. Go to see shows of the stars (the astronomical kind) as well as the permanent exhibition. Q Admission 50 - 150Kč.

Seaworld Praha 7, Výstaviště, MHolešovice, tel. (+420) 220 10 33 05, www.morsky-svet.cz. A loop audio tape of tidal wash envelops Prague's little known aquarium, Mořský Svět. The suspended manta ray may be huge, but the tanks are small although well stocked with tropical and fresh water fish. One tank has, we presume in honour of Finding Nemo, clown fish and a tang. Deadly but beautiful scorpion and turkey fish languish looking like fully sailed gal-leons, and soft corals billow in the current. It's not huge, but makes an interesting detour. Signs are Czech only. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. 190/150Kč.

72 WHAT TO SEE


73WHAT TO SEE


Toy Museum (Museum hraček) B-1, Praha 1, Jiřská 6, tel. (+420) 224 37 22 94, www.muzeumhracek.cz. The unfortunate thing about most toy museums is that children tend not to enjoy them. For the most part, the experience is too frustrating because all the cool toys are kept just out of reach by a pane of glass. However, all is not lost; the second floor has switches at children's level which make the displays of stuffed animals jostle about. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. Admission 20 - 40Kč.

LandmarksFunicular Railway A-4, Újezd tram stop. The fu-nicular runs up Petřin Hill providing beautiful views of Prague and the castle. There are two restaurants sitting at the half-way point - there is a station there. Use regular 20Kč tickets. Trams run at

15 min intervals. QOpen 09:00 - 11:20.

Gestapo HQ I-4, Praha 1, Politických věznů 20. This sombre black building is now the headquarters of the Czech Trade Office, but between 1939-1945 this was the most feared buildings in the city. Jews and Czechs alike were brought here and interrogated. In one particular incident on Nov 24, 1939 the Gestapo executed 120 students accused of anti-Nazi plotting. Their deaths are commemorated by a small statue on the corner of the building.

Klementinum D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 1, tel. (+420) 222 22 08 79, www.klementinum.com. The Klementinum offers a little something for everyone: Beautiful views from the astronomical tower; Baroque architecture in the library hall and classical musical concerts in the Mirror Chapel. The building dates back to 1232 and currently houses the National Library, as well as 12 hard to find sundials. Guided tours are held daily. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.

Náměst í Mí ru J -5/6, MNám. Míru. In Czech this means Peace Square and it is dominated by a soaring two-tower basilica, the neo-gothic Saint Ludmila Church (Kostel sv. Ludmily). This beautiful church was constructed from 1888 to 1893 and bears the creative power of many renowned artists, including sculptor Josef Václav Myslbek, who also fashioned the statue of St. Wenceslas. Ludmila (860 - 921) was born in Mělník

and baptised, probably by St. Methodius, in 871. After her husband died their son assumed the throne and had two sons with his pagan wife Drahomíra; Boleslav and Wenceslas, the latter later to become the patron saint of the Czech Republic. Ludmila was strangled at the hand or the behest of Drahomíra who resented her meddling with the budding Christian, Wenc-eslas. She is celebrated on 16 September and is patron to, among others, converts, widows and those with problematic in-laws… Náměstí Míru (green line A) is the deepest of Prague's metro stations and as such has one of the longest escalators in Europe - 87m long with a vertical span of 43m - without walking, it takes over 2 minutes to ascend/descend. The park hosts many festivals including the late September burčák festival and the Christmas market. The square has an almost starring role in the 2006 remake of cult horror classic, The Omen.

National Memorial (Národní památník) K-3, Praha 3, Na Vrchu Žižkově. One of the largest equestrian statues in the world dominates the hill overlooking the north eastern district of Žižkov. The 16.5 ton statue commemorates the Hussite hero, Jan Žižka. Behind the statue is the national mausoleum, built originally as a memorial to World War I Czechoslovak legions, and then taken over as the resting place for the great and the not very good Communists. The first working class president, Klement Gottwald, was pickled in slivovice and put on display here. Unfortunately the pres-ervation was not wholly successful and the body started to putrefy from the feet up, shocking the odd visiting school party as their national hero literally started to fall apart before their very eyes. His body was returned to his family in 1990 and later buried in the cemetery in Olšanské.

Petřín Tower (Petřínská ro-zhledna) A-4, MPetřin funicular, tel. (+420) 257 32 01 12. At the top of Petřin Hill stands a 60m-high bad copy of the Eiffel Tower, affording great views of the city. The building was completed in May 20, 1891. An alternative route to the castle is to ride the funky funicular up Petřín Hill and walk pass the tower across to the castle area. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Open Sat & Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 50/40/10Kč.

The Dancing House (Tančící dům) G-5, Praha 2, Rašínovo nábř. 80. Frank Gehry's design for this building was inspired by the dancing team Ginger Rogers and Fred Astaire. Built in 1996, this structure more than cuts a swathe among the Austrian-Hungarian terrace blocks that make up most of Prague.

TV Tower K-4, Praha 3, Mahlerovy sady 1, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 267 00 57 78, fax (+420) 222 72 40 14, www.tower.cz. This huge silver tower with funny-looking boxes attached to it was built between 1985 and 1992. Swift lifts whisk you to a fantastic panorama of the city, then descend a few floors to dine whilst contemplating the intricacies of vertigo. The scary black babies crawling all over the tower are an art

installation by David Černy that became permanent. And now the tower is lit up in rather fetching hues of pink and purple. Try and miss it now... QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. Admis-sion 150/120Kč.

Parks & GardensBotanical Gardens (Botanická zahrada) Praha 7, Nádvorní 134, MNádraží Holešovice, tel. (+420) 234 14 81 11, www.botgarden.cz. An outdoor section with vineyard, chapel, bonsai, a Japanese Zen garden, greenhouses and wonderful views of the ci ty. A li t tle fur ther up the hill is the Fata Morgana greenhouse exhibi ting deser t, high sierra and tropical plants in a realistic setting. Residents include butter flies, moths, frogs and greenery galore. Bus N°112 from the metro station. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Fata Morgana closed Mon. Admission 120/60Kč.

Kampa Park G-4, Kampa Island. Featuring a well-equipped children's playground, Kampa Park is caressed by water on all sides thanks to the millstream known as the Devil's Stream. The park is notable for its serenity in the midst of the centre, and is popular with couples, the local and expat hippy population, as well as families enjoying the playground. You can also feed the ducks or visit one of the cafés. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.

Letná, MHradčanská. Massive park high atop the Vltava and pinpointed by the often-static metronome where once a massive statue of Joe Stalin stood. Biking/skating paths galore, skateboarders, playing fields, tennis courts, kids playground, beer garden and more. Fabulous outdoor spot.

Ostrov Štvanice J-2, Praha 7. The largest island in the Prague stretch of the Vltava is occupied by the oldest ice hockey stadium in Prague, a tennis stadium, a skate park and has outdoor film screenings in the summer.

Petřín A-3/4. With stunning views of the city and a choice of gardens and trails to explore, Petřín is packed with activites or lazing opportunities. Features include the tower, a mirror hall, an 18th century Ukrainian wooden church and Prague's lovers enjoying ... ah, the view.

Troja Chateau Praha 7, U trojského zámku 1, MNádraží Holešovice, tel. (+420) 283 85 16 14, www.citygal-leryprague.cz. A grand 17th century summer palace built for Count Václav Vojtěch Šternberg, Troja has French gardens littered with Baroque sculptures right on the river below the Botanical gardens and next to the Zoo. It was originally situat-ed here to be opposite Stromovka royal game preserve (now Stromovka Park), which it is linked to today by a pedestrian bridge, but be warned it is no short walk. Admission 120/60Kč for the gallery inside, gardens free. From the metro, hop on tram 5, 17, 25 to Trojská. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

Valdštejnská zahrada B-1/2, MMalostranská. The Wallenstein Gardens may have a lot of rules, but the lack of human and canine detritus adds to their beauty. Famous for the peacocks, the cavern-like foll y (look for phallic and serpentine

motifs) and the biggest fish we've seen in a while - ducklings often have to make a sharp exit to avoid being nibbled. An owlery, beautiful frescoes and benches galore for whiling away sunny afternoons. Look for the secret entrance next to the metro exit.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. G

Zoo Praha Praha 7, U Trojského zámku 3, MNádraží Holešovice, tel. (+420) 296 11 21 11, www.zoopraha.cz. Zoo Praha is a really cool zoo. Following the floods of 2002 (in which there was an unfortunate loss of animal life that was broadcast round the world) many improvements to infrastructure and the animal's homes have been made. Big ones, like elephants, lions and tigers can be spotted, but don't miss the gorillas, penguins, kangaroos, giraffes, parrots, wolves and hyenas. Recent additions have included an Indonesian Jungle and the just opened (04/2008) pavilion for a group of rare Indian crocodiles. Seven young Gavil crocs are now at home here - the only European zoo to house this critically endangered specie. Zoo officials hope they'll settle in nicely and reproduce. That's another special aspect of the Zoo Praha - their conservation efforts. The facility was instrumental in preventing the extinction of Przewalski horses in the ‘60's and hopes to have similar success with the

Gavils. Additional highlights include the Gorilla Pavilion and African Jungle. Definitely the place to come to if you have little ones in tow - there's an excellent petting zoo and kids play area. A train ride through the zoo, a chair lift ride above the zoo or wagon-like vehicles for the kids are available for tired tootsies. Shaded, well-laid out paths make this a good visit, even on warm days. The zoo opened in 1931 and today spreads over 60 hectares and is home to nearly 5,000 animals. Concession stands shockingly don't jack up the prices, so an entire day can easily be spent here. Take bus N°112 from metro station Nádraží Holešovice or even stretch your legs further and walk across the Vltava River via the footbridge from Stromovka park. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. March 09:00-17:00, Apr, May, Sep, Oct - 09:00-18:00, Jun, Jul, Aug- 09:00-19:00, Nov, Dec, Jan, Feb - 09:00-16:00 Admission 150/100Kč. TA6ULBKC

Walking & Bike ToursCity Walks, tel. (+420) 608 20 09 12/(+420) 222 24 45 31, www.praguer.com. For 450Kč you can take the four hour Insider Tour of the city including Staroměstská, Nové Město, Josefov, Malá Strana and Prague Castle. The tour also provides complimentary refreshments and a ride on the funicular. Tours begin daily at the statue at the top of Václavské nám. at 09:45 and 13:30.

Daily Walks J-3, Praha 1, Na Florenci 20, tel. (+420) 281 91 76 42/(+420) 603 15 70 01, www.walks.cz. These cool cats will walk you around town for 300 - 1,000Kč, less if you are a student, and introduce you to various aspects of Prague. The meeting point is in front of the Astronomical Clock at the blue umbrella.

Prague Travel Praha 2, Vinohradská 28, tel. (+420) 222 51 60 64/(+420) 777 07 07 84, fax (+420) 222 52 05 73, www.praguetravel.cz. Several themed umbrella-led walks starting at the Astronomical clock at various times; just look for the orange umbrella. Go for a short tour of the city centre or on the 6-hour megawalk. Prices from 200 - 1,000Kč.

Real Tour I-5, tel. (+420) 602 45 94 81, www.walking-toursprague.com. Englishman Paul and Czech Michal do the four-hour, 300Kč Real Tour of Prague starting at 12:30 at the horse statue at the top of Václavské nám. The walk includes a break at a pub and ends at the castle. Pick-ups at 12:00 from the Traveller's Hostel on Dlouhá and the Clown and Bard. Walks on Mon, Wed, Thu & Sat only. NB, no tours from 20 - 31 Oct.

74 SHOPPING


75BUSINESS DIRECTORY


Crystal, unique art and beautifully made wooden toys and objects are the true Prague souvenirs, but the tacky T-shirt trade is one of the most lucrative. The totally cheesy Czech Me Out T-shirts and communist slogans tend to hide a few quality items, such as Mucha, Kafka and others. Competition, even on Charles Bridge, means prices are fairly even, but the more tourist areas tend to have higher prices.

BooksAnagram F-2, Praha 1, Týn 4, tel. (+420) 224 89 57 37, www.anagram.cz. The owner personally selects all the stock at this excellent bookshop, and he will order any book you need. It also has second-hand books. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Also at J-5, Praha 2, Anny Letenské 18.Big Ben F-2, Praha 1, Malá Štupartská 5, tel. (+420) 224 82 65 65, fax (+420) 224 82 65 59, www.bigben-bookshop.com. English-language books only are sold here, with standard guides on Prague, plus several shelves of bestsellers, childrens books, fiction, non-fiction and travel books. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. AGlobe H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 6, tel. (+420) 224 93 42 03, www.globebookstore.cz. English books, second-hand books, and magazines, internet access, café and restaurant. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. APalác Knih Luxor F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 41, tel. (+420) 221 11 13 64, www.neoluxor.cz. Large shop with a good selection of foreign-language books downstairs. The 28. Října 7 shop has a good collection of translations from Czech upstairs. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Also at (E-4) 28. Října 7 and (F-3) Celetná 34. AShakespeare & Sons Praha 10, Krymska 12, MNám. Míru, tel. (+420) 271 74 08 39, www.shakes.cz. Thou-sands of handpicked new and used English titles, earnest poetry and prose readings and performance, newspapers, chess and backgammon plus café. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also at Praha 1, U Luzickeho seminare 10. Tel. 257 53 18 94. Open 11:00 - 21:00.

Department storesDebenhams F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 21, tel. (+420) 221 01 50 57, www.debenhams.cz. The English department store has made its mark. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. AKotva F-2, Praha 1, nám. Republiky 8, tel. (+420) 224 80 11 11, www.od-kotva.cz. A variety of well-priced shops and services, and a special area for children, all in the ugliest building in central Prague. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. ALMarks & Spencer Václavské nám. 36, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 224 237 503, marksandspencer.com. One of the UK's most well-known stores. It's all here: the clothes; the food; the housewares. QOpen 9:30 - 20:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. ATesco D-4, Praha 1, Národní 26, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 222 00 31 11, www.tesco-shop.cz. Britain's best store with a supermarket in the basement. Delivery service is also available, check the website for details. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Supermarket open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. A

GlassArtěl Praha 1, Celetná 29, MStaroměstské nám., tel. (+420) 271 73 21 61, www.artelglass.com. A welcome addition to Prague's glass scene, which can be a bit on the

tacky side. The proprietor has a fun shopping sense and you never know what you may find, be it books, jewelry or other Bohemian treasures. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. AArzenal D-2, Praha 1, Valentinská 11, tel. (+420) 224 81 40 99, www.arzenal.cz. Glass from Boris Šípek, the leading Czech architect and designer. The shop is also a Thai restaurant, Arzenal, which is strange, but somehow pleasing. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. ACristallino F-3, Praha 1, Celetná 12, tel. (+420) 224 22 51 73, www.cristallino.cz. Prague's largest assortment of Bohemia crystal, glass, porcelan and jewellery in a range of designs from classic patterns to modern glassware from top Czech designers. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. AMoser F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 12, tel. (+420) 224 21 12 93, www.moser-glass.com. Moser is the oldest Czech glass manufacturer and it's been in operation since 1857. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Also at E-3, Praha 1, Malé nám. 2, tel. 221 61 15 20. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. ARott Regena Crystal E-3, Praha 1, Malé nám. 3, tel. (+420) 224 22 95 29. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. A

Shopping centresČerná růže F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 12, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 221 01 41 11, www.cernaruze.cz. All the right shops and some fine extras in this larger-than-it-appears centre. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.Nový Smíchov Praha 5, Plzeňská 8, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 257 28 41 11, [email protected]. Home to Carrefour and more. The games arcade is fabulous and Palace Cinemas are on the top floor. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.Palác Flóra Praha 3, Vinohradská 151, MFlóra, tel. (+420) 255 74 17 00, www.palacflora.cz. New and very chic shopping centre, with over 120 shops, as well as restaurants, cafés, a cinema multiplex and an IMAX theatre. All in the centre of Prague. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.Palladium nám. Republicky 1, Mnám. Republicky, tel. (+420) 225 770 250, www.palladiumpraha.cz. Prague's newest and brightest mall. What used to be an army bar-racks is now home to a huge variety of shops. A gourmet floor and lots of restaurants means you could easily lose a day amidst the 5 floors of climate-controlled amusement. QOpen 7:00 - 22:00.Slovanský Dům F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 22, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 221 45 14 00, www.slovansky-dum.cz. High end retail shops, a multiplex cinema and Kogo restaurant attract the right people at this central shopping centre. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.

Speciality shopsde.facto E-4, Praha 1, Perlová 6, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 23 38 15, www.defakto.cz. Beautifully designed objets, furniture, gifts, kitchenware, soft furnishings and oddities at this excellent shop which has a tinge of the Ikea style and more but without the schlep out to Zličin. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.Naoko I-3, Praha 1, Revoluční 24, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 31 25 67, www.naoko.cz. Excellent selection of design products that you may not really need, but which look fantastic. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.Qubus F-2, Praha 1, Rámová 3, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 31 31 51, www.qubus.cz. Fabulous design shop off Dlouhá selling hip goods from bizarre clocks to ceramic Wellington boots as vases. They are also the Czech distributor of funky-ass Lomo cameras. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

BanksCitibank E-4, Praha 1, 28. října 11, tel. (+420) 233 06 32 32, www.citibank.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.ČSOB Československá obchodní banka F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 18, tel. (+420) 261 35 67 11, [email protected], www.csob.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Česká spořitelna F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 26, tel. (+420) 224 42 26 86/(+420) 800 20 72 07, fax (+420) 224 23 93 28, www.csas.cz. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00, Fri 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.GE Capital Bank Praha 4, Vyskočilova 1422/1a, tel. (+420) 224 44 36 36/(+420) 800 10 30 60, www.gecb.cz. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.KB Komerční banka F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 33, tel. (+420) 222 43 21 11, www.kb.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Raiffeisenbank I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 38, tel. (+420) 221 14 12 61, www.rb.cz. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Chambers of commerceAmerican Chamber of Commerce E-1, Praha 1, Dušní 10, tel. (+420) 222 32 94 30, fax (+420) 222 32 94 33, [email protected], www.amcham.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.British Chamber of Commerce K-3, Praha 8, Pobřežní 3, tel. (+420) 224 83 51 61, fax (+420) 224 83 51 62, [email protected], www.britcham.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Czech - Belgian - Luxenbourg Joint Chamber of Commerce F-3, Praha 2, Anglická 20, tel. (+420) 261 35 20 90/(+420) 261 35 21 08, fax (+420) 261 35 23 33, [email protected], www.cblchamber.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Czech - Canadian Chamber of Commerce F-3, Praha 1, Klimentská 46, tel./fax (+420) 225 00 03 45, [email protected], www.gocanada.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Czech - German Chamber of Commerce H-5, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 40, tel. (+420) 224 22 12 00, fax (+420) 224 22 22 00, [email protected], www.dtihk.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Economic Chamber of the Czech Republic K-4, Praha 9, Freyova 27, tel. (+420) 296 64 61 11, fax (+420) 296 64 62 21, [email protected], www.komora.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Real estateAAA BYTY.CZ akciová společnost Václavské náměstí 62, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 226 060 606/(+420) 774 333 010, [email protected], www.aaabyty.cz. AAABYTY.cz. is a full service real estate company and can assist you with buying, renting or selling a flat, house, office and even land. They are experts with many additional resources in-house, like help with securing financing and legal and tax assistance. Plus, they have offices across the country so you will find them especially helpful if you're not looking in Prague.Atrium Real Estate I-6, Praha 2, Lípová 10, MKarlovo nám., tel. (+420) 800 28 74 86/(+420) 777 00 55 66, [email protected], www.atriumrealestate.cz. Residential property, re-sale, new homes, rental and property management. With a team of 15 multi-lingual employees. Weekend viewing by appointment. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00, Fri 08:00 - 18:00.European Reality E-4, Praha 8, Zirkon Office Centre, Sokolovska, tel. (+420) 234 32 33 33, fax (+420) 222 50 78 91, www.europeanreality.com. European Reality is one of the largest residential agencies in the Czech Republic with an

excellent team whose focus and energy is always placed on their most valuable assets - the customers. An English real estate company; their services include rentals, sales, construction, room design and property management. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.King Sturge I-3, Praha 1, V celnici 10, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 221 03 30 44, fax (+420) 221 03 30 55, www.kingsturge.com. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Foreign press & WebsitesCzech Business Weekly E-3, Praha 1, Provaznická 13, tel. (+420) 234 07 13 70, fax (+420) 234 07 13 77, [email protected], www.cbw.cz. Business weekly, published each Monday.expats.cz, www.expats.cz. Prague’s largest and ever-growing online community, an invaluable resource for finding any thing, any where at any time. Especially good for finding a place to live, a job and people to drink with.Fleet Sheet Praha 1, Soukenická 13, tel. (+420) 296 58 01 60, fax (+420) 224 22 15 80, [email protected], www.fleet.cz. A rundown of the day’s major business and political stories from the Czech press.Prague Daily Monitor, www.praguemonitor.com. A daily summary with links to Czech news plus links to other interesting cool sites.provokator.org, www.provokator.org. Cool online and print articles, events, listings and anarchism...The New Presence D-4, Národní 11, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 222 07 56 00, www.new-presence.cz. Czech and European political and cultural affairs. Published quarterly.The Prague Post I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 20, tel. (+420) 296 33 44 00/(+420) 296 33 44 09, fax (+420) 296 33 44 50, [email protected], www.praguepost.cz. Longest serving weekly English language newspaper.

76 LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY


77LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY


Nam Jai Thai Massage D-2, Kaprova 11, tel. (+420) 222 32 87 47, www.namjai.cz. Here you’ll get an authentic, stretching, vertebrae popping session of traditional Wat Pho massage. Back & Head, Foot and oil massages are also avail-able. One hour Thai massage 700Kč. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.Sabai Na Příkope 22, tel. (+420) 221 45 11 80, www.sabai.cz. By far the smartest and most expensive of the Thai massage options here, but is it worth it? Well, yes it is. Quiet and private - even the foot massage rooms are individual. Excellent staff, English spoken and relaxed ambience. Traditional Thai 990Kč for one hour. Reservations recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.Sawasdee Foot Massage Rytiřská 19, tel. (+420) 224 22 61 05. From the tinkling fountain to the comfy chairs and the characteristic menthol smell, this place looks authentic but unfortunately the foot massage is not. Pain and Porn are just two of the masseuses who might work on you, but ours was Thai Massage Lite. We kept waiting for it to kick in to no avail. 600Kč for a lacklustre Thai massage. Relaxing, yes, but not therapeutic. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.Tantra Masáže Praha 3, Ondříčkova 32, tel. (+420) 603 18 50 66, [email protected], www.tan-tramasaze.com. Experience a completely different kind of massage. Tantra massage is a combination of ancient tantra-tao techniques and classic massage. Reservations required. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. €150 - 230.Tantra Spa Praha 10, 28.pluku 18, tel. (+420) 777 85 88 64, [email protected], www.tantraspa.cz. A unique experience for those looking to relax and perhaps expand their sexual energy. A tantra massage is one that combines a classic massage with elements of the tantra. The masseur’s attentive and respectful touch invites you to relax, helps to increase the body’s sensitivity and enhances life energy and joy. Bookings are by appointment only. QOpen 9:00 - 22:00.Tawan - Thai massages Náměstí Curieových 100, tel. (+420) 234 614 163/(+420) 721 731 401, [email protected], www.tawan.cz. Tawan has a variety of treatments including a classic Thai massage, an aroma oil massage and a detox massage, plus body treatments like peel-ings and wraps. Their most popular therapies use hot herbal packs. Some of their specials are interesting too, like the one-and-a-half hour foot and hand massage, or the Coconut Dream featuring an aroma massage using coconut oil. They offer gift certificates so you can give the gift of calm. Tawan is located in the Hotel President and they have two other locations; one inside the Holiday Inn Prague Congress Center and another in Prague 1 at Salvátorská 10. QOpen, Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 7:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 9:00 - 21:00. 450-2190kč. JAThai Fit Na Poříčí 21, tel. (+420) 224 81 18 76, www.thaifit.cz. The aroma of the adjacent Siam Orchid restaurant adds to the ambience of this great place and inspires what to do post massage. Eat. Anyway, the masseuse here was strong and achieved an incredible amount of vertebrae pop-ping, exactly what the neck was in need of. Calm, quiet and recommended. 600Kč for one hour traditional Thai. QOpen 9:00 - 21:00.Thai Orchidea F-4, Praha 1, Jindřišská 5, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 222 22 22 31, [email protected], www.thai-orchidea.cz. Tired back or legs? Revive them at Thai Orchidea. The pros here will focus on your sore points; or for an all-out body work over choose their traditional Thai mas-sage, or special oil Thai massage. You’ll leave stress-free and ready to take on the city. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Traditional Thai massage: 1 hour, 600kč.Thai World Celená 6, tel. (+420) 224 81 72 47, www.thaiworld.cz. This used to be the place to go but it seems they are resting on their laurels a tad. The masseuse spent more time massaging with one hand in order to hold open the curtain to see what/who was going on outside. She did notice pain in the shoulder which she applied Tiger Balm to. Good, not great. 599Kč for one hour traditional Thai. QOpen 9:00 - 22:00.

Zen Studio Praha 1, Široká 11, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 72 22, [email protected], www.zenstudio.cz. Calm and tranquillity is the name of the game here. Zen Studio offers Thai massage, aromatic oil massage, herbal massage, plus they have a Jacuzzi and sauna. Their certified therapists will reduce tension while relaxing your body. Take a moment for Zen now. QOpen Noon - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.

SpasAnenské slatinné lázně Lázně Bělohrad, Spa 165, tel. 493 76 71 11, fax 493 76 74 43, [email protected], www.belohrad.cz. A kind and professional approach offers guests for both therapeutic or wellness stays a pleasant atmosphere and excellent service. The spa focuses on the treatment of rheumatism, ar thri tis and back pain. Active visi tors can play tennis or rent mountain bikes.Aquaforum Františkovy Lázně Františkovy Lázně, Ulice 5. května 19, tel. 354 20 65 00, [email protected], www.aquaforum.info. For those who thought they should have been born with fins instead of feet. Here they’ve got four indoor and three outdoor swimming pools, designed in a Roman bath setting.Lázně Hodonín Hodonín, Měšťanská 140, tel. 518 39 55 11, [email protected], www.laznehodonin.cz. Lázně Hodnín is known for its iodine infused water, ex-cellent for treating cardiovascular and muscular problems. The modern buildings and ideal surroundings make it a great choice.Lázně Libverda 463 62 Hejnice, tel. 482 36 81 11, fax 482 36 81 10, [email protected], www.lazne-libverda.cz. Lázně Libverda in the Jizera Mountains focuses on treating heart and blood circulation diseases. Their local mineral springs were discovered in the 14th century and there are a variety of sporting and relaxing options on hand.Lázně Malvazinky Praha Praha 5, U Malvazinky 5, MAnděl, tel. 251 11 66 02, [email protected], www.malvazinky.cz. Here you’ll find a variety of help in the area of sports medicine and physical therapy. Lázně Malvazinky Praha specializes in postoperative rehabilitation and muscular-skeletal problems.LS Royal Mariánské Lázně Mariánské Lázně, Lesní 345, tel. 354 62 54 46, fax 354 62 23 46, [email protected], www.royalmarienbad.cz. Mariánské Lázně is sometimes overlooked in favour of Karlovy Vary, but you should put it in your spa plan and stay at the LS Royal. A variety of relaxation stays support their therapeutic programmes which include assistance with respiratory and metabolic disorders. Pampering is a guarantee at this four-star hotel.Richmond Park Hotel Karlovy Vary, Slovenská 3, tel. 353 17 71 11, fax 353 22 21 69, [email protected], www.richmond.cz. We get all chilled-out just thinking about the Richmond Hotel. This stunning property is located on the outskirts of Karlovy Vary for a more peaceful stay. They offer a variety of relaxation programmes, including anti-ageing treatments, beauty weeks and relaxing days.

MassageIlandra K-6, Praha 2, Francouská 31, MNáměstí Míru, tel. (+420) 773 58 28 12, [email protected], www.ilandra.com. Ilandra promises their hands will restore your life energy. At least you’ll be relaxed. Therapeutic, sport, reflex, tantric, Chinese and Indian massages are all on offer. They also offer home and office visits. Q 60 minutes - 1500 CZK/90 minutes - 2000 CZK/Therapeutic, sports and reflex types of massage: 40 minutes - 750 CZK.Lázně Libverda Hejnice, tel. (+420) 482 36 81 00, fax (+420) 482 36 81 10, [email protected], www.lazne-libverda.cz. Escape Prague for a weekend of pampering at Lázně Libverda in Hejnice, near Liberec. Outdoor activities abound in the nearby Jizera Mountains; and wellness and relaxation of all types can be found at the spa. Treatments include carbo-mineral baths, underwater massage, acupuncture and a variety of elec-trotherapy procedures. There a variety of hotels and pensions in the area and you can get to the town via Liberec.Miracle Spa Janáčkovo nábř. 7, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 257 31 73 26, www.miraclespa.cz. With their menu of wellness, hair and face treatments a miracle very likely could be performed. If nothing else, you’ll feel amazing when it is all over. Miracle Spa offers body wraps and peels; a variety of anti-aging face treatments; and of course the all important relaxing baths, massage and thalassotherapy. Ahh, it’s a miracle! QOpen 8:30 - 20:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.Mystic Buddha F-2, Dlouhá 39, tel. (+420) 221 77 95 10, www.mysticbuddha.cz. Emphasis is on balance and harmony. Individual rooms provide extra privacy and English speakers make life easier for any instructions. In addition to Thai massage, they offer classic massage, cosmetic treat-ments, a hair salon, manicures and pedicures. Try the hot stones. One hour Thai massage is 950Kč. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Winter hours: 9:00-21:00

Canadian Medical Care Praha 6, Veleslavínská 1, tel. 235 36 01 33/724 30 03 01, fax 235 36 46

40, [email protected], www.cmcpraha.cz. General practitioners, pediatrics, gynecology, dentists and more can be found at Canadian Medical Care. Modern facilities plus excellent staff make this a top of choice of many in Prague. Also has a location in Praha 4, V Parku 2308/8, 272 91 35 93. QOpen, Mon, Wed, Fri 08:00 - 18:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A

24-hour pharmaciesLékárna U Svaté Ludmily J-6, Praha 2, Belgická 37, tel. (+420) 222 51 33 96.Lékárna Modřany Praha 4, Soukalova 3355, tel. (+420) 244 40 22 70.Lékárna Palackého H-4, Praha 1, Palackého 5, tel. (+420) 224 94 69 82.Lékárna U Anděla Praha 5, Štefánikova 6, tel. (+420) 257 32 46 86.

DentistsAmerican Dental Associates I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, tel. (+420) 221 18 11 21, fax (+420) 221 18 11 20, www.americandental.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ADental Emergencies H-4, Praha 1, Palackého 5, tel. (+420) 224 94 69 81. Q Open 24hrs.Esthesia Opletalova 1013/59, MNáměstí republiky, tel. (+420) 284 68 05 30/(+420) 775 02 56 44, www.esthesia.cz. Dentistry of the highest order (cosmetic, pre-ventive, orthodontics & implantology) using state of the art equipment combined with individual, after hours, professional and above all, pain-free care for a healthy happy smile. Take the metro to Náměstí republiky (Line B). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PTAEsthetX Dental Clinic I-4, Praha 1, Václavské Náměstí 38, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 776 77 22 44, [email protected], www.esthetx.cz. Smile pretty. Or get yours fixed up. Complete range of dental services including preventative care and im-plants. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.European Dental Center I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 33, tel. (+420) 224 22 89 84, www.edcdental.cz. A high-quality, modern dental centre providing both general and cosmetic dentistry, with a friendly atmosphere and relatively painless treatment. Implants, prosthetic work, crowns, bridg-es, inlays, orthodontics, periodontics and mouth surgery, and root canal treatment are all available, with support from digital x-ray. Plus the smile you want with the Brite-Smile system. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A

HospitalsNemocnice Motol Praha 5, V úvalu 84, tel. (+420) 224 43 11 11/(+420) 224 43 36 81, www.fnmotol.cz. The operators of its emergency number speak English. Bus N°167 and 174. Q ANemocnice na Františku I-2, Praha 1, Na Františku 847, tel. (+420) 224 81 05 02/(+420) 224 81 02 80. English is spoken.

Medical centresAsklepion J-6, Praha 2, Londýnská 39, tel. (+420) 234 71 61 11/(+420) 602 48 33 22, fax (+420) 234 71 65 20, [email protected], www.asklepion.cz. Super trendy clinic offering plastic surgery, laser treatments, dentistry and even eye lash perms. Labs and operating theatres on site. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.GynCentrum Praha 9, Hloubětínská 13, tel. (+420) 225 00 08 88, [email protected], www.gyncentrum.cz. A quiet and welcoming clinic for a variety of cosmetic surgery procedures, GynCentrum offers breast enhancements, facelifts and liposuction along with treating gynecological ailments. Their personal and professional approach will be welcome, no matter your reason for a visit.International Medical Services Praha 7, Jankovcova 16, tel. (+420) 266 77 37 11/(+420) 737 28 93 61, www.medicalgroup.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

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TAWAN Hotel PresidentNám. Curieových 100Praha 1, tel. +420 234 614 163TAWAN Holiday InnNa Pankráci 15, Praha 4tel. +420 296 895 050TAWAN OskarSalvátorská 10, Praha 1tel. +420 224 815 730

0509.ai 14.5.2009 14:40:15

78 LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY


79LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY


ClimbingClimbing Center Ruzyně Praha 6, Drnovská 19, tel. (+420) 235 31 90 96, [email protected], w w w.stena-ruzyne.com. Wi th an excel len t English websi te, this place has a 12 metre high climb-ing wall wi th 92 regularl y changed routes for both the novice and exper t (a.k.a. the spider). The bouldering wall costs 40Kč, the climbing wall is 80Kč and you can rent gear from them and take climbing courses. Bus Nºs 108, 218, 225. QOpen 15:00 - 21:45, Wed 10:00 - 15:45, Thu 18:00 - 21:45, Sat 16:00 - 21:45, Sun 13:00 - 20:00.Lokalblok Praha 5, nám. 14. října 10, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 777 24 24 76, www.lokalblok.cz. A colourful and very popular climbing bar. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PNamche Praha 8, Heydukova 6, tel. (+420) 266 31 29 45/(+420) 603 84 34 04, www.namche.cz. Wouldn’t a ladder be easier? Buy colourful rope, rubber slippers and small metal clips and then find out what to do with them. QOpen 09:00 - 21:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. AUltra Ant E-2, Praha 1, Týnská 17, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 82 60 39. Small but central and friendly. English spoken, 1 hour lesson for 150Kč all inclusive. 7 metre wall for 40Kč, gear rental available plus bouldering. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.

Extreme sportsAeroklub Praha Praha 9, Hůlkova 16, tel./fax (+420) 286 85 20 40, tel. (+420) 286 85 24 15, www.aklet-nany.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Aviatic Centrum Praha Praha 4, Pujmanové 27/881, tel. (+420) 272 68 03 63/(+420) 602 32 36 08, fax (+420) 272 68 03 65, [email protected]. Should your life be too much for you, come here and learn to paraglide, which is a sport akin to jumping out of the window and waving a crisp packet in the air. You can also jump out of an aeroplane and plummet 3,000 - 4,000 metres in six minutes, which at 4,460Kč works out at 1.48Kč - 1.11Kč per metre. Bargain.Bobsleigh Praha 9, Prosecká 906/34b, MPalmovka, tel. (+420) 284 84 05 20, fax (+420) 284 84 05 21, www.bobovadraha.cz. Not too extreme but thrilling none-theless. Reach speeds of up to 50km/hr on a large tea tray on wheels with a brake, which you might want to use. A fantastic view of Prague, restaurant, lift back to the top and adrenaline boosting 800m runs make a fantastic day out. 60Kč a run or 280Kč for 6 runs. Take bus Nº 140, 187 & 233 two stops (to Kelerka) from Palmovka. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00. Sat & Sun 10:00 - 22:00. KF-air, tel. (+420) 317 79 38 20/(+420) 606 62 36 10, www.f-air.cz. Flying and jumping out of planes.K. I. Bungee Jump, tel. (+420) 608 768 168/(+420) 777 250 126, www.bungee.cz. For 700 - 800Kč these nice folks will march you to a bridge and let you jump off.Parašutistická škola Impact Praha 4, Dolni 12, tel. (+420) 261 22 54 31/(+420) 602 95 80 94, [email protected], http://skydive.mujweb.cz/. Quite possibly the most insensitively monikered business known to man. 3,100Kč for the usual aerial insanity involv-ing aeroplanes, rushes of blood to the head and bodies to the ground.Tandem Centrum Praha Praha 6, Na Pěkné vyhlídce 4, tel. (+420) 233 34 34 43/(+420) 603 45 62 27, www.padaky.cz. For 3,500Kč this lot will take you up in a plane and push you out whilst tied to another maniac. For an extra 1,000Kč they will video your terror.

Fitness centresCybex Praha 8, Pobřežní 1 (Hotel Hilton), tel. (+420) 224 84 27 13, fax (+420) 224 84 23 72, [email protected], www.ecybex.cz. Delightful, top-quality surroundings and equipment for you to exert yourself in/on/with. We suppose if you’re going to suffer, you may as well do it in style. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 22:00.Delroy’s Gym Praha 5, Zborovská 4, tel. (+420) 257 32 70 42, [email protected], www.delroys-gym.cz. Karate, tae kwan do, kickboxing and all sorts of other ways to exercise your aggression. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.Holmes Place Prague 5, Plzeňská 8, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 257 313 830. Deluxe health club inside the Nový Smíchov mall.Sportcentrum YMCA I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 12, tel. (+420) 224 87 58 11, fax (+420) 224 87 58 18, [email protected], www.scymca.cz. Sweat away the kilos in the fitness centre or sauna then cool down by taking a dip in the swimming pool or by getting a massage. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.World Class Fitness Center Praha 1, Václavské nám. 22, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 234 69 91 00, www.world-classfitness.net. Definitely world class. Superb. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.World Class Health Academy I-3, Praha1, V Celnici 10 (Millennium Plaza), MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 221 03 30 33, www.worldclassfitness.net. Another world class facility. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.

KartingKart Areal Praha 9, Chlumecká 8 (Černý Most mall), MČerný Most, tel. (+420) 281 91 61 88, www.kartar-eal.cz. Zoom around a specially designed 500m indoor track in a car park from 200Kč for 10 mins. QOpen 14:00 - 22:00, Fri 14:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. KKart Centrum Praha 5, Výpadová 1335, tel. (+420) 602 61 24 92/(+420) 602 75 74 75, [email protected], www.kart-centrum.cz. Book the whole track and res-taurant at a rate similar to Formula 1 prices; 1 hour 12,000 - 24,000Kč. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.Kart Klub Letňany Praha 9, Toužimská 55, tel. (+420) 777 311 856, fax (+420) 234 312 066, [email protected], www.motokary.com. Indoor go-kart arena near to center of Prague with 10 Honda GX200 karts, 512 m long track with specialy created asphalt concrete surface, computer-ized scoring system, bar - restaurant with up to 150 seats, disco stage. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.

Medicover I-6, Praha 2, Tylovo nám. 3/15, tel. (+420) 234 63 01 11, www.medicover.cz. Comprehensive medical care, 24-hour house calls, dental and surgery as-sistance. English, French, German, Spanish, Russian & Czech speaking staff. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. APoliklinika na Národní D-4, Praha 1, Národní 9 (3rd floor), tel. (+420) 222 07 51 20/(+420) 606 46 16 28, fax (+420) 224 21 50 59, www.poliklinika.narodni.cz. Emergency tel. 606 89 38 35. Q APolyclinic D-4, Praha 1, Národní 9, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 222 075 120, [email protected], www.poliklinika.narodni.cz. 25 physicians, all fluent in English (also some German, Russian and French spoken). Preventa-tive care and travel vaccinations, US visa medical, dental, physio, home visits and 24hr emergency coverage. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 24hr emergency, tel. 777 94 22 70. Lab opens at 08:00. AUnicare Praha 6, Na Dlouhém lánu 11, tel. (+420) 235 35 65 53/(+420) 608 10 30 60, fax (+420) 235 35 52 02, www.unicare.cz. 24-hour call service. Take tram N°2, 20, & 26 or bus N°116, 131 & 132. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Also at Průhonice, Kosatcová 420, tel. 267 75 04 27. Open: Mon, Fri 09:00 - 15:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Wed 09:00 - 18:00. A

BilliardsBillard Centrum F-4, Praha 1, V Cípu 1, tel. (+420) 720 15 20 44, www.billiardcentrum.cz. A huge old building hidden down an alley in the centre - the well worn grandure is explained in part by the fact that this used to house prancing horses and now houses those looking to bowl, play pool, snooker or billiards, table tennis, darts, surf the net, or just get blind drunk for cheap. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. Also at Praha 5, Stroupežnického 1, tel. 257 31 06 57.Billiard Club Harlequin J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 25, tel. (+420) 224 21 72 40, www.harlequin.zde.cz. QOpen 14:00 - 04:00.Café Louvre D-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 22, tel. (+420) 224 93 09 49, [email protected], www.cafelou-vre.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:30.

BowlingBeer and Bowling Diner Praha 4, Kongresová 1 (Corinthia Towers Hotel), tel. (+420) 261 19 11 51, fax (+420) 261 22 50 11, [email protected], www.corinthia.cz. Ten-pin chaos on top of the city. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00. ABowling Centrum RAN I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 10, tel. (+420) 221 03 30 20/(+420) 739 02 65 58, www.bowlingran.cz. Twinkle your toes right under the noses of the posh-nobs upstairs in the Marriott. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.Kingpin G-2, Praha 6, Milady Horákové 109, tel. (+420) 224 39 62 64. Every kind of youth wasting facility - bowling, darts, pool, booze. QOpen 14:00 - 02:00.

Ambulance, tel. (+420) 155.City Police, tel. (+420) 156.Fire, tel. (+420) 150.International Emergency, tel. (+420) 112.Police, tel. (+420) 158.

Emergency Numbers

PaintballPaintball Club Troja Praha 4, Krejnická 2021, tel. (+420) 272 91 11 09, [email protected], www.paintballgame.cz. Rent or buy the stuff with which you can drag your mates out into the woods and shoot them. 3 games’ areas available. Call in advance. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. APrague Indoor Paintball Praha 9, Freyova 27, MVysočanská, tel. (+420) 777 33 49 39, www.prague-indoor-paintball.com. Grab your macho Spyder Pilot ACS gun, protective clothing, bullets, I mean paintballs and shoot your friends at this indoor venue with 10 games tailored to novices and James Bonds among us. 250Kč per hour, plus bar, pool, table tennis, kick boxing and gaming. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.

Camera servicesCentrum FotoŠkoda I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 37, tel. (+420) 222 92 90 29/(+420) 602 19 24 71, fax (+420) 222 92 90 16, [email protected], www.fotoskoda.cz. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

HairdressingBomton I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 43, tel. (+420) 224 23 16 89/(+420) 224 23 16 90, www.bomton.cz. Chain of upmarket salons to give you a pat on the head. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 19:00. Also at H-5, Praha 1, Myslíkova 31, tel. 224 93 44 27, open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.James Hair E-2, Praha 1, Malá Štupartská 9, tel. (+420) 224 82 73 73/(+420) 602 17 10 16, [email protected], www.jameshair.cz. Upmarket bi-lingual hairdressers responsible for the president’s wife’s hairdo. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.Joshua K-6, Praha 10, Slovenská 2, tel. (+420) 222 52 01 26/(+420) 604 81 46 73, fax (+420) 222 51 46 53, [email protected], www.joshua.cz. Take a walk on the wilder side of the coiffure industry. We don’t advise visiting on a whim or when inebriated. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Kadeřnictví Zákostelecká Praha 2, Slavojova 12, tel. (+420) 224 93 74 49, www.volny.cz/kadernice. Price starts at 100Kč. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Salon Gaudí F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 36 (3rd Floor), MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 24 71 98/(+420) 604 26 52 63, www.gaudistudio.cz. The one stop conglomer-ate that is OASIS City now offers styling and more from Salon Gaudí, who also operate in Moscow, London, Paris and Ge-neva. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00; Sundays by appointment only.Toni & Guy Praha 1, Dlouhá 13, tel. (+420) 222 32 00 56/(+420) 222 32 00 57, fax (+420) 222 32 33 59, [email protected], www.toniandguy.cz. Cut and blow dry will set you back 800 - 1150Kč depending on who on their power ladder is doing the snipping. For the budget conscious, student cuts are 200Kč and colour is 450Kč. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Mon 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.Tribo I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská 2, tel. (+420) 224 81 48 00/(+420) 603 46 64 66, [email protected], www.tribo.cz. Hair studio, tattoos and piercing. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

Lost credit cardsAmerican Express Praha 1,Václavské nám. 56, tel. (+420) 222 21 10 89, fax (+420) 234 71 17 12, http://www.axrep.cz/. QOpen closed.Diners Club, tel. (+420) 267 19 74 50.Eurocard/Mastercard & Visa, tel. (+420) 224 24 50 41.

81ADULT ENTERTAINMENT


Prague is as famous for its sex clubs as it is for its beer. Stag nights take advantage of the price and availability of both, and on the whole these clubs are well organised and clean. Safe sex is practiced, and bouncers and/or manag-ers will explain the rules and methods of each place on ar-rival. It is cheaper to partake over here, but that does not mean you won’t pay for the privilege of watching a live sex or lesbian show. Generally, you’ll have to pay an entrance fee (around 500Kč) to sit at the bar; this fee is waived if you are there to pay for other services immediately. Many of the central clubs pay men and women to entice you off the street and into their nearby establishments, but if you’re heading somewhere by taxi, make sure you’re taken to the one you want to go to rather than the one the taxi driver gets commission from. Check prices of services and drinks, and enjoy…

Big Sister Praha 5, Nádražní 46, tel. (+420) 257 31 00 43/(+420) 257 31 00 44, [email protected], www.bigsister.net. Forget about big brother watching you, this is voyeurism Big Sister style. Prague’s first online brothel has 40 girls, 58 cameras and you being beamed live onto the internet via 17 videostreams. Pay a 500 CZK entrance, sign away your anonymity (masks are not allowed) and the girls are free. Add the theme rooms, pool, sauna, and showbar with lap dancers, Big Sister is one unique experience. Visit on a Saturday or Sunday to take advantage of their special parties. Must be reserved in advance; check their frequently updated website for the latest action. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. A

Carioca E-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 1, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 296 32 53 14. A large open room with a central stage hosts girls galore doing the can-can and go-go, plus strip and lesbian shows. The place resembles a wedding reception

complete with faux Louis XIV furniture, but you lads aren’t here for the décor, now are you? QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. AP

Club 161 K-2, Praha 8, Sokolovská 161, MKřižíkova, tel. (+420) 284 81 02 62, [email protected], www.club161.cz. A small residential house hosts from two (in the day) to 12 lovely girls for your pleasure. Downstairs is a bar and pole for strip and lesbian shows, while upstairs you can take your pick of four rooms and/or a Jacuzzi. An S&M room has toys, PVC every-thing and whips if that’s your bag, baby. Free entrance and decent bar prices. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 20:00 - 06:00. AL

Club 600 Praha 3, Koněvova 66, tel. (+420) 222 58 61 28, www.c600.cz. Cosy club offering all the fun of the fair from three in the afternoon to the very early hours of the morning. Always a good number of Czech girls on hand to provide you with whatever assistance and relaxation you may need. QOpen 19:00 - 05:00.

K5 Relax Club J-5, Praha 2, Korunní 5, MNám. Míru, tel. 224 25 05 05, www.k5relax.cz. The best club in Prague, and considered by experts as one of the top sex clubs anywhere in

Central Europe. From friendly doormen to the hands-on management who will answer all of your questions in as many languages as you can imagine, to the lovely girls who will look after your every wish, this place has it all. A computerised payment system ensures that you will not be ripped off. We cannot recommend K5 more. QOpen 16:00 - 04:00. A

82 ADULT ENTERTAINMENT


Darling Cabaret I-5, Praha 1, Ve Smečkách 32a, MMuzeum, www.kabaret.cz. One of the biggest and most popular of the adult clubs in town but it’s not cheap as it caters for the comparatively rich tourists. Head over to Václavské nám. and just try to miss it... you’ve probably seen and been photographed next to their limo too. Watch cabaret, lesbian shows, Thai Fire shows and table dancing courtesy of 150-200 girls a night. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00, Tue 20:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00.

Desire Cabaret I-5, Praha 1, V Jámě 8, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 296 338 539, [email protected], www.desire-cabaret.cz. Centrally located night club with all the usual attractions, including erotic dancers, striptease, lesbian shows and full service massage. Popular with visitors, pay them a visit and you will discover why.

Escade I-7, Praha 4, Křesomyslova 5, tel. (+420) 241 40 98 88, www.escade.cz. Tucked down in Nusle is Escade, home to thirty girls every night for your viewing (and more) pleasure. Get comfortable in the sofa-laden bar before taking your pick of one of their spacious rooms, sauna or whirlpool. The usual strip and erotic shows are crowd pleasers, and Escade also offers soft S&M, services for couple, special private arrangements and an escort service. Just in case you go overboard, there’s an ATM. Q Open 24 hrs. PA

Exclusive Club Praha 10, Šrobárova 6, MFlora, tel. (+420) 776 88 55 22, [email protected], www.exclusive-club.cz. Strip clubs are a dime a dozen in Prague, but Exclusive Club has raised the bar. Newly open; they take reservations, have a VIP room, free entry and everyone gets a welcome drink. Lovely ladies and an events calendar; Exclusive Club is worth the slightly out of centre trip. QOpen Noon - 5am.

Extasy Cabaret Praha 3, Chlumova 13, tel. (+420) 222 78 00 48/(+420) 777 206 006, www.extasy.cz. Extasy offers a courtesy car from anywhere in Prague and a free welcome drink for punters. This is a well-known place for quality girls and imaginative shows, for example, Cheryl and her drill - use that imagination… yup, that’s right. Anyway, it’s all air conditioned, they have a bar with dance, erotic and lesbian shows, massage, plus various rooms and even a waterbed. Extasy also hosts film and photo shoots. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 20:00 - 06:00. A

Follow Me Praha 7, Na Šachtě 5, tel. (+420) 608 84 41 43, www.followme.cz. Follow me to a place where you can get away from it all and enjoy the delights of erotic girls there just to please you. And believe us, they will. Drinks, free transport, low prices but above all, hot chicks. Near the Výstaviště grounds in Holešovice. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00.

Goldfinger’s E-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 4, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 222 19 38 56. No sex please, we’re British. This is not the call of either James Bond or the stag-partier, but that is the ethic at Goldfinger’s, the classiest strip joint in town. It’s not cheap but then again, the girls aren’t either. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. PA

Hot Pepper’s F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 21, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 724 13 40 11, www.hotpeppers.cz. Hot Pepper’s - Gate to Hell is an original, exclusive club. Next door to the disco Duplex, it’s the ideal combination of cabaret dancers and champagne consumption; all with a professional presentation. The V.I.P. Champagne Lounge, with its choice of many exquisite brands of bubbly, can’t be found anywhere else. The all-night programme includes exotic and cancan dancers; a lesbian show, stag show and even private rooms. Benefits include free entry, every second

PRAGUE_TITULKAs1.indd 5 25.8.2009 15:21:35

84 ADULT ENTERTAINMENT


beer free, discount vouchers for 5 and 10 beers, and many more attractive offers. Plus, the party can go on as long as you wish - there’s no closing time at Hot Pepper’s. Excepts all credit cards, including American Express. QOpen 20:30 - 05:00. PJA

Laura Club Praha 3, Jeseniova 166, tel. (+420) 271 77 46 90, www.lauraclub.cz. Great little club in Žižkov where you can enjoy lovely Czech girls strip for you three nights a week before escorting one to a private room to help you drink your sparkling wine. When there is no strip action there are still always plenty of girls ready to entertain you in as many ways as you can imagine. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. A

Lotos Club Praha 4, Kupeckého 832, MHáje, tel. (+420) 272 91 68 25, www.lotos.cz. Newly renovated and still specialising in the discreet luxury niche. Lotos is modelled on a gentleman’s club although with the added bonus of young girls, pool and S&M room for starters. Choose from over 20 quality girls a night. Free entrance voucher on the website. Q Open 24hrs. A

Neon Club Balbinová 21, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 222 25 01 05/(+420) 733 12 10 22, www.neonclub.cz. The Neon Club offers three exotic floors of strippers, lap dancers and escort services. The first floor will amuse with its selec-tion of sex toys; while the second has a reasonably priced cocktail bar and dancing girls. Ascend to the third and you can catch a game in their sports bar. QOpen 12:00 - 5:00.

Red Light Praha K-1, Praha 7, Bubenské nábř., MVl-tavská, tel. (+420) 261 31 41 51, www.redlight.cz. In the middle of Holešovice market is Prague’s very own little Amsterdam. Red Light is a whole melange of saucy goings on in one location. You will find an Amsterdam/Frankfurt style sex supermarket, a red light centre with a peep show and video rooms and the Pleasure sex shop selling saucy souvenirs for the boys and girls back home. Q Sex Park open 24hrs, shop open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-15:00, closed Sun. A

Sugar’s Cabaret I-5, Praha 1, Krakovská 25, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 222 21 07 96. Get a free beer while you watch one of their strip, lesbian or auto-erotic shows. If you so desire, have extra sugar in your bowl with a choice of seven rooms – one has a whirlpool. Various theme nights spice things up too. QOpen 19:00 - 07:00. AP

Sweet Paradise Praha 3, Slezská 75, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 737 66 82 33/(+420) 272 73 29 06, www.sweetparadise.cz. Boasting 12-20 (of 50) girls available per night, this is a more local affair offering beer and girls, the most famous of Czech commodities. All sorts available from shows at the tiki bar, basic theme rooms, ‘special’ services and long term escorts. Print the discount voucher from the website. Foreign currency accepted. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. A

Velvet Praha 4, Ve Svahu 13, MVyšehrad, tel. (+420) 241 43 26 74, www.velvetclub.cz. The self-proclaimed ‘flagship of erotic’ calls for all hands on deck a short taxi ride south of the centre. Amenities include bubble baths, video, free minibar and escort services. Call ahead and a taxi will pick you up free of charge. Q Open 24hrs. A

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WARSAW

After the BattleWarsaw Uprising 70 years on

The Mouth of Old TownWarsaw‘s Barbican

August - September 2009

“In Your Pocket:“I“InIn written series of guidebooks.”wrwrrititt


BELFAST

Aug - Sep 2007

NORTHERN IRELAND

HIGHLIGHTS & HIDDEN GEMS

Including

Better by design Stunning souvenirs, stylish shopping and local crafts on display

The Great OutdoorsFeel the burn, catch the waves, take a hike

Gastro TourismNorthern Ireland on a plate

N°13Complimentary copy


YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

N°48 - 100 Kwww.inyourpocket.com


PRAGUE

Christmas MarketsGifts galore

Winter Chill OutMassage and more

December 2008 - January 2009

N°95 - 6Ltwww.inyourpocket.com

VILNIUS

UžupisA brief sojourn inside Vilnius’

distinctly eccentric independent republic

Vingio ParkasFrom Tolstoy to rollerblades,

the city’s favourite park is pulled apart and examined


AAAA t Sttt Stt SSSSS tttt bbbAugust - September 2009

86 STREET REGISTER


17. listopadu D-228. října E-4Alšovo nábřeží D-2Anenská D-3Anenské Nám. D-3Anežská F-1Bartolomějská D-4Benediktská F-2Besední B-4Betlémská D-4Betlémské Nám. D-4Bílkova E-2Boršov D-4Břehová D-1Břetislavova A-2Celetná F-3Cihelná C-2Čechův most D-1Červená E-2Divadelní C-4Dlouhá E-2Dražického B-2Dražického Nám. B-2Dušní E-1Dvořákovo nábř. D-1E. Krásnohorské E-2Harantova B-3Haštalská F-2Haštalské Nám. F-2Havelská E-3Havelská ulička E-3Havířská E-3Hellichova A-3Hlavsova E-3Hradčanské nám A-1Hradební F-2Hroznová B-3Husova D-3Charvátova E-4

Chotkova B-1Jáchymova E-2Jakubská F-3Jalovcová D-3Jánský vršek A-2Jilská D-3Jindřišská F-4Jiřská B-1Josefská B-2K Haštalu F-1Kamzíková E-3Kaprova D-2Karlova D-3Karlův most C-3Karmelitská B-3Karolíny Světlé C-4Klárov C-1Klášterská F-1Konviktská D-4Kosárkovo náb. D-1Kostečná E-2Kozí E-1Kožná E-3Králodvorská F-3Krocínova C-4Křižovnická D-3Křižovnické Nám. D-3Lázeňská B-2Letenská B-2Liliová D-3Linhartská D-3Maiselova D-2Malá Klášterní F-1Malé Nám. E-3Malostranské náb. B-4Malostranské Nám. B-2Maltézské Nám. B-3Mánesův most C-2Mariánské Nám. D-3

Martinská D-4Masná E-2Melantrichova E-3Michalská E-3Mikovcova I-5Mikulandská D-4Mikulášská E-3Míšeňská B-2Most Legií C-4Mostecká B-2Na Františku E-1Na Kampě B-3Na Můstku E-4Na Opyši C-1Na Perštýně D-4Na Příkopě F-3Na Rejdišti D-2Na Zábradlí C-3Náb. Ed. Beneše C-1Nám. Curieových E-1Nám. Franze Kafky E-3Nám. J. Palacha D-2Nám. U sv. Jiří A-1Náměstí Republiky F-2Náprstkova D-3Národní D-4Nebovidská B-3Nekázanka F-3Nerudova A-2Nosticova B-3Novotného lávka C-3Olivová F-4Ovocný trh F-3Panská F-4Pařížská E-1Pelclova B-3Perlová E-4Plaská B-4Platnéřská D-2

Pod Bruskou C-1Politických vězňů F-4Prašný most A-1Prokopská B-2Provaznická E-3Průchodní D-4Rámová F-2Revoluční F-2Růžová F-4Rybná F-2Rytířská E-4Řásnovka F-1Řetězová D-3Říční B-4Salvátorská E-2Saská B-2Seminářská D-3Senovážná F-3Skořepka D-4Smetanovo náb. C-4Sněmovní B-2Spálená D-4Staré zámecké schody B-1Staroměstské Nám. E-3Stříbrná D-3Šeříková B-4Široká D-2Štefánikův most F-1Štupartská F-2Templová F-3Thunovská A-2Tomášská B-2Tržiště A-2Týnská F-2Týnská ulička E-2U Bruských kasáren C-1U Dobřenských D-4U Lanové dráhy A-4U Lužického sem. C-2

U Milosrdných E-1U Obecního domu F-3U Obecního dvora E-2U Plovárny D-1U Prašné brány F-3U Radnice E-3U Sovových mlýnů B-3U Staré školy E-2U Starého hřbitova D-2U Sv. Ducha E-2U Zlaté studně B-1U Železné lávky C-1Uhelný trh E-4Újezd A-4V Cípu F-4V Kolkovně E-2V Kotcích E-4Václavské Nám. F-4Valdštejnská C-1Valdštejnské Nám. B-1Valentinská D-2Vejvodova D-3Veleslavínova D-2Velkopřevorské Nám. B-3Vězeňská E-2Vikářská A-1Vítězná B-4Vlašská A-2Voršilská D-4Všehrdova B-4Za Haštalem F-2Zámecká A-2Zámecké schody A-1Zlatá D-3Zlatá ulička B-1Žatecká D-2Železná E-3

BUS 100to

Ruzyně Airport

Ordinary operation - Effective from 9.5.2008

BUS 179to

Ruzyně Airport

infoline

Metro

Changing station

Change to ČD trains/S lines

Infocentre

P+R Parking lot

Bus to Ruzyně Airport

Funicular to Petřín

BUS 119, 254, AEto

Ruzyně Airport

90 INDEX


Abaton 56Absolutum 24Adagio 51Adventure Playground 69AghaRTA Jazz Centrum 59Akord 59Akropolis 41, 56Allegro 34Aloha Wave Lounge 51Ambassador Casino 55Amici Miei 38Amour Hotel Residence 28Andel's 24Angel 44Angelo Hotel 25Ankora 27Anna 27Antik City 25Apartments OASIS City 28Appia Residences 28AquaPalace Aqua Park 69Aquapalace Hotel 25Aria 21Ariston 27Aromi 38Around Prague Information Centre 64Astoria 25Atlantic 27Au Gourmand 48Azteca 42Babylon 42Back Doors 51Bambus 51Banco Casino 55Baráčnická rychta 31Bar and Books 51Barceló 25Barceló Praha 25Barock 51Beas 44Bed Lounge 34Be kara OK! 56Bellevue 34Belvedere 25Best Tour 68Best Western Hotel Páv 27Best Western Premier Hotel Majestic Plaza 26Bethlehem Chapel 64Big Sister 81Blatouch 51Blind Eye 51Blue Light Bar 51Blues Sklep 59Bohemia 55Bombay Cocktail Bar 51Bordo 56Botanical Gardens 70Brasserie La Provence 33Brasserie Praha 34Bredovský dvůr 32Bresto 48Buddha Bar Hotel 21Budweiser Budvar Restaurant 32Buffalo Bill's 30Bugsy's 52BW Meteor Plaza 26Café Amsterdam 48Café Café 48Café Imperial 48Café Jungmann 48Café Louvre 48Café Pavlač 48Café Savoy 48Caffrey's 60Cantina 42Carioca 81Carlton 26Cartouche 42Casa Havana 51Casino de Prague Le Hilton 55Casino Palais Savarin 55Casino Panorama 55Casino President 55Celebrity Café 41Céleste 33Celnice 32, 56Century Casino Millennium 56Cigars and Coffee 48City Cafe Cosmopolit 34City Museum 65Cityrama Prague 68City Walks 71Claris 27Clear Head 44Cloud 9 51

Club 161 81Club 600 81Coffee Fellows 48Coffeeheaven 48Coloseum 43Como 42Corinthia Towers 21Corleone 38Country Life 44Courtyard Marriott Flora 26Courtyard Marriott Prague Airport 27Cowboys Steaks & Cocktails 30Coyotes 52Cross Club 56Crowne Plaza Prague Castle 26Cubism Museum 65Cukrkávalimonáda 48Czech Museum of Fine Arts 65Čedok 68Černý slon 34Chapeau Rouge 51Charles Bridge 63Chateau St. Havel 26Choco-Story: The Chocolate Museum 69Christie 28Church of Our Lady Victorious 64Dahab 43Daily Walks 71Dancing Fountains 69Darling Cabaret 82DC1 52Decorative Arts Museum 65DISK Café 49DOX Centre for Contemporary Art 65Drake's 59Dubliner Irish Bar 61Dům u velké boty 29Duplex 57Dvorak Sec Contemporary 65Dvořák Museum 65Ebel 49El Emir 41Élite 26Elysee 26Escade 82Escape 59Espressamente Illy 49Esprit Orangerie 34Euforia 57Exclusive Club 82Extasy Cabaret 82Face Cafe 49Fluidum 42Folklore Garden 32Follow Me 82Four Seasons 22Francouzská restaurace 33Funicular Railway 70Futura 65Futurum 57Galerie Jaroslava Fragnera 65Galerie La Femme 65Galerie Václava Špály 65Gallery KusKovu 65Gecko 52George & Dragon 60Gestapo HQ 70Giallo Rosa 43Globe 49Goldfinger's 84Grand Café Orient 49Grand Café Praha 49Grand Hotel Bohemia 22Grand Hotel Praha 22Gusto 43Hacienda Mexicana 42Hanabi Hibachi House 39Hapu 52Hard Rock Cafe 30Harlequin 52Harley's 52Hergetova Cihelna 34Hilton Prague 22Hilton Prague Old Town 22Historical Museum 65Hong Kong 31Hospoda Lucerna 52Hotel Černý slon 26Hotel Neruda 26Hot Pepper's 82House at the White Unicorn 67

Huang He 31Hybernia 34Ibis Praha City 28Ibis Praha Smíchov 28Il Giardino 40Indian Jewel 33InterContinental Praha 22Irish Club Prague 52Jáma 30, 60Jazz Boat 59Jet Set 52Jewellery Collection 67Jiří Světská Gallery 67J.J.Murphy's 60Josef 23K5 Relax Club 81Kafíčko 49Kafka Museum 67Kampa Museum 67Kampa Park 71Karavanseráj 43Karlín London 49Karlovy Lázně 57Káva Káva Káva 49Kavala 33Kavalír 28Kavárna Obecní Dům 49Kavárna Pavilon 49Kempinski Hybernská Prague 23Klementinum 70Klub 007 Strahov 57Klub Lávka 57Kmotra 43Kogo 38Korea House 39Kozička 41, 52Kri-Kri 33La Belle Epoque 52La Cambusa 43La Casa Blů 52La Degustation 34La Fabrique 57La Galerie 34Langhans Galerie 67La Rustica 38Laura Club 84La Veranda 34Le Grill 34Leica Gallery 67Lemon Café 50Letenský zámeček 35Letná 71Le Tram 52Liberty 26Lokalblok 52Loreta 64Lotos Club 84Lucerna Music Bar 57Lví dvůr 32M1 57Macao 31Mad Bar 54Magická zahrada 38Maitrea 44Malostranská pivnice 60Maluj Creative Café 50Malý Buddha 33Mánes Exhibition Hall 67Man-na 39Manni Mini 33Marriott Executive Apartments 29Martin's Irish Pub 60Martin Tour 69Masala 33Mash Hana 39Matylda Botel 38Mecca 57Merlin 60Metropol Music Cafe 43Miniatures Museum 67Mirellie 39Mirror Labyrinth 69Mlýnec 35Modrý zub 44Molly Malone's 60Molotow Cocktail Bar 54Monarch 35Mount Steak 35Mövenpick 26Mozart Museum 67Mucha Museum 67Municipal House 63Museum of Communism 67Museum Pension 29Mušketýr 29Muzeum Karlova Mostu 67

Nagoya 39Náměstí Míru 70Na Poličce 60National Memorial 70National Museum 68National Theatre 63Nebe 57Neon Club 84NOI 44Nordica 50Nordsee 44Nostress 35Novoměstský pivovar 30Nusle Bridge 70O'Che's 60Old Prague Hostel 29Old Town Square 63Oliva 42Olympos 33Osteria De Clara 39Ostrov Štvanice 71Ouky Douky 50Our Lady of Snow 64Paneria 30Papas 54Paris 23Park Inn 28Pekelnej Bar 54Perfect 35Petřín 71Petřínské Terasy 40Petřín Tower 70Pizza Nuova 43Planetarium 69Planet Sushi 40Pod křídlem noci 35Popocafepetl Music Club 57Praga Sport Café 61Prague Classic Rental 29Prague Info 64Prague Marriott 23Prague Sightseeing Tours 69Prague Square Hostel 29Praha Bike 71Pravda 35Premiant City Tour 69President 23Primitiv Pravěk 35Punto Azul 58Radisson SAS Alcron 24Ramada Airport Hotel Prague 27Real Tour 71Red Light Praha 84Reduta 59Repete 54Resto Café Patio 35Retro Music Hall 58Reykjavík 44Ridgeback 54Robert Guttmann Gallery (Jewish Museum) 68Rock Café 58Rocky O'Reilly's 60Roma 43Roxy 58Royal Palace 24Rudolfinum 68Rugantino 43Rybanaruby 50Rybí trh 44Safir 41Sarah Bernhardt 33Seaworld 69Seventh Heaven 50Shakespeare & Sons 50Shamrock Irish Pub 61Sheraton Prague Charles Square Hotel 24Sherlock's Pub 41, 60Siam Orchid 44Slavia 50Smetana Museum 68Solidní nejistota 58Sovereign 27Sovovy Mlýny 32Spearmint Casino 56Sportbar Sparta ve Slavii 61Starbucks 50St. Ignatius Church 64St. Nicholas Café 54St. Nicholas Church 64Století 32Stone Bell House 68Strahov Monastery 64Střelecký ostrov 36Sts. Cyril and Methodius Church 65

Studio 54 58Subway 30Sudička 54Sugar's Cabaret 84Sushi Bar 40Svatá Klára 36Swank 56Sweet Paradise 84Švejk 32Taj Mahal 33Techtle Mechtle 36Tequila Sunrise 42Termix 59The Augustine 24The Beer Factory 61The Dancing House 70The Chemistry Gallery 68The Lions Bar 61The Noodle Bar 44The Pack 61The Saints 59Tlustá koala 60Top Secret Club 58Torture Museum 68Town Hall & Astronomical clock 63Toy Museum 70Transport Museum 68Tretters 56Trilobit 56Troja Chateau 68, 71Tropison cocktail bar 56TV Tower 40, 70U Betlémské Kaple 32U Budovce 50U Bukanýra 58U Buldoka 58U Cedru 42U Císařů 42U Černého vola 60U Dominikána 36U Emy Destinnové 36Újezd 58U Kalicha 31Ultramarin 56U Malého Glena 41, 59U Maltézských rytířů 32U Modré růže 32U Mušketýra 32Ungelt Jazz & Blues Club 59Universal 36U Pinkasů 31U Prstenu 50U Rudolfa 59U Sádlů 42U Sedmi Švábů 42U Staré paní 59U Ševce Matouše 32U Vodárny 31U Zavěšenýho kafe 50U Zlatého tygra 60U Zlaté konvice 32U Zlaté studně 36Vagon 58Valdštejnská zahrada 71Valentino 59Veg Food 44Veletržní Palace 68Velryba 50Velvet 84Venue 73 61Vertigo 58Vesmírna 50Victims of Communism Memorial 69Villa Müller 69Villa Richter Restaurants 36Vltava 36Vysmátý zajíc 61Vyšehrad 63V Zátiší 36Wakata 56Wenceslas Square 63Wigwam 36XT3 58Yasmin 27Yessi Café 50Zahrada v Opeře 36Zanzibar 56Zapa Bar 56Zinc 36Zlatá hvězda 61Zlatá Praha 40Zlaté časy 58Zlatý strom 41Zoo Praha 71Zvonice 40

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20 styles of ILLY coffee

Prague Marriott Hotel, V Celnici 8, Prague 1

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