Postmodernism research

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Postmodernism from Research of

Karl Lagerfeld

Module Code: DAVC10033

Module Title: Introduction to DVC

Tutor: Hunt, KevinAssessment Title: Final Essay

Student Number: T2220047

Student Name: YUJIA HUANG

World count: 2232


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About postmodernism, Robert Charles Venturi, Jr. said: less is bore.(Cahoone,

2003) Around this idea, postmodernism can be explained with culture combine

with many different elements. The cultural products of the era which known as

the 60s began to move away from modern ideals, and started reflecting

significant elements of the postmodern conditions of late 20th and early 21stcentury culture, whats more, it is rejected the idea of the "whole", particularity

and uniqueness. This essay will be present about postmodernism by Karl

Lagerfeld who is a designer can be perfect to present postmodernism. Speaking

of Karl Lagerfeld, the first reaction in the mind will always be think about a

person who is Chanel's artistic director and occupied the commanding heights of

the fashion circles with the white ponytail wearing sunglasses, and always

wearing a well-pressed suit. Karl Lagerfeld except good for clothing design, and

he also a director, actress, and photography is also extremely professional, by the

way, he have their own photography art galleries in Paris. In this essay will be

going to explain about postmodernism by Karl Lagerfelds objects from three

aspects, fashion brand design, photograph and products design.

First of all, Brand fashion design is most important part of him, and he is a

designer for three brands, Chanel, FENDI and his own brand Karl Lagerfeld.

Chanel is one of important step in Karl Lagerfelds design life. In 1983, he become

a Chanels designer, when he first show, he was cut the Chanels long dress, and

collection with colorful jewelry, this behavior broken the Chanels traditional

elegance. Through the Karl Lagerfeld use Chanels spirit of the clever and naughty,

and he tries to combine with advanced and popular culture, made the originality

of Chanel again as a mainstream worship. At the same time, after through his

explanation and crafts refined, more modern women identity that Chanels

importance in the history.

See the figure 1, the yellow suit, which is

designed by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, which is

trouser suit make of sequins and elasticated

grosgrain lined in silk, Lycra leggings in 1991,

and it is from Paris V&A Images. Perhaps is

one of the best examples of the postmodernist

movement in fashion was the takeover of the

legendary fashion house Chanel, by Karl

Lagerfeld in 1982.(Semple, 2011: online) The

historically tradition and conservative style

changed by the designer, and from the other

way, yellow pieces of bold use for clothes andsimplicity adding luster, colorful fabrics and

Fig.1 Chanel Trouser suit, Sequins and

elasticated grosgrain lined in silk, Lycraleggings, designed by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel

(1991) By Paris V&A Images

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textures, use the gold materials show the symbolic of Chanel logo CC on clothes,

creating jewelry from the same logo. The displayed 1991 Yellow Sequined

Chanel Suit Jacket is a prime example of his postmodernism of the brand.

(Semple, 2011: online)

In his design, the design of stage also is one of interested part. And he designs the

stage of fashion show also can be display the postmodernism. In his film

Lagerfeld Confidential, he said, one of Chanel fashion shows stage design

idea which is the main theme is black and white from his dream (Lagerfeld

Confidential, 2007:film). In figure 2 above, show the fashion show in 2008/09 fall

and winter, stylist is in the huge atrium building a group for the highest 32

meters large cylinders, and the large organ is this shows main installation.

Whatever in scale, shock, or in the outcome of the efforts of the original, it is

bring the fashion brand-new Angle and view, because construction is fashion andmusics Bridges.

Since 2002, published the first hand made studio --Metiers d "Atr series, then

every year, Karl will launch with a hand-made studio series use a special place

name, pay the highest respect to fashionable masters. This show chooses

international auction company --Phillips de Pury & Company location of London

headquarters of the future, and this is the sixth of Metiers d "Atr studio series,

called the Paris-London (2008) series.

This shows decorate except of lighting facilities and necessary logo, almost

without any adornment, and audience seat is concise black line style. This shows

tonal present sends out a strong post-modern style, and use brand which use the

model Irina Lazareanu to be a lead singer of band singing show the live

performance model, brought romantic feeling to this show. This season's fashion

and accessories in the continuation of the classic, at the same time clever

combine with many delicate and exquisite punk elements, makes this show suit

for Londons rock temperament. Punk gloves are with romantic gold-plated bud

silk presents luxuriant sense. The most wonderful is the light bulb heel Chanel

high heels shoes. This combined with science and technologys luxury fashion

Figure 2. Fall-winter 2008/9 haute couture show dcor

(2008) By Chanel

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works, become the most beautiful scenery of the feet. 2008 years of Chanel heel

high-heeled shoes is science and technology perfect combination of luxury, fully

embodies the postmodernism.

About FENDI, Karl Lagerfeld work as FENDIs designer in 1965, and the FENDIs

famous logo double F also designed by Karl Lagerfeld, in additionhe created

a very famous fashion show that is the great wall fashion show in Dec 2007, and

its present history and the modern combined, new elements intertwined with

old elements. Look at the figure 3 and figure 4 above. At the same time, 44

models from China and 44 models from other countries around the world, and

showed the FENDI 2008 summer fashionable dress and Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia

FENDI special design works series. Look at figure 5, they as well take Chinesestyle, China's red, and a suit of the armour for design inspiration coat and so on,

and the finale black Chinese dress chirpaur with ShuiXiu wearied by Chinese

famous model Du Juan. It is combining with a lot of elements. This show is

perfect combine with Chinese and western culture.

In 1984, Karl Lagerfeld launches his own brand KARL LAGERFELD. Under the

Figure 3. FENDI on the great wall fashion show (distant

view) By FENDI

Figure 4. FENDI ON THE GREAT WALL

By FENDI

Figure 5. FENDI on the great

wall fashion show about

black Chinese dress chirpaur

with ShuiXiu By FENDI (left)

Figure 6. Catwalk: Pink

leather windbreaker By

Bowles, H(right)

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creative direction of Karl Lagerfeld, one of the worlds most influential and iconic

designers, the Lagerfeld Portfolio represents a modern approach to distribution,

an innovative digital strategy and a global 360 degree vision that reflects the

designers own style and soul.(KARL LARGERFELD, 2012: online) In their own

brand, fit, narrow body, narrow sleeve to the outside of the cutting line, classicalstyle and street appeal are combined to form the many innovation. In figure 6,

like those clothes, exquisite design, feminine color with denim quality of a

material, conflict of mixed is tie-in, creating unique, but charming beautiful

amorous feelings. His brand is the perfect combination of a variety of elements.

Karl Lagerfeld in their own brand of 09/10 autumn and winter fashion show

introduced a mink iPod helmet, this helmet with France high-grade brand Les

Ateliers Ruby and Apple together to launched cross-boundary products. Show

in figure 7, this is a useful and costly helmet, the shell all use the carbon fiber, and

lining use the chevrette from Bourgogne France, the outer shell use mink skin.

Karl Lagerfeld very like the iPod, in this helmet connected to the headset that can

listen to iPod music. This attempt make the fashion design become very interest

and fresh, and different areas combined can be the warped magic you'll get whentwo waves of innovation crash together. It is great way to explore less is bore.

And then, about Photography, Photography works present meaning absolutely by

individual, and photography creation content and subject are very casually. From

his photos, we can know, as he prefers black and white style on his photos. Karl

Lagerfeld said in his film Lagerfeld Confidential, photo captures a moment

that is gone forever, and never can be doing the same again. In 1987, Karl

Lagerfeld started to be a photographer because of the news pictures need to usephotos, professional photographer would not want to do it and take a mistake.

Figure7. A mink iPod helmet by GRAZIA

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(Lagerfeld Confidential, 2007: film) Karl Lagerfeld is not the only cross-border

photographer, but he is definitely the most active cross-border photographer. He

works can be see them fromVOGUE,L 'UOMO VOUGE,ELLE and so

on the top fashionable the magazine.

This is a 2011 Pirelli Calendar by Karl Lagerfeld. It has 36 picture composition,

showed a different theme 24, including god, hero and myth. Karl Lagerfeld uses

their own original vision, and careful fixed these pictures. All photos are black

and white, so as to bring the image character; at the same time, through the

clever use of light, realized the unique 3D visual effect. Karl Lagerfeld said: "

Actresses and models bring these new heroes to life and depict a new concept ofthe beautiful." (Pirelli, 2010: online) He present idea about idyllic beauty is

forever in 2011 portrays Pirelli Calendar. Beautiful, youth, to form and desire to

describe the worship of a new concept about beauty, and embodies the

mythology of modernity.

Today, photography is part of my life. I cant imagine life without its vision. I

look at fashion and the world through the eye of the camera. This gives my basic

work a critical detachment that helps me more than I could ever have imagined.

Karl Lagerfeld said. (Chanel, 2011: online)

Figure 10. A unique collaboration in design and craftsmanship by Orrefors (first)

Figure 11. Teddy bear by Steiff and Karl Lagerfeld by Jeff (second)

Figure 12. French Valentines Day stamps (third)

Figure 8. Pirelli

Calendar: Woman with

Archery (2010) in

FASHIONOLOGIE By

Karl Lagerfeld (left)

Figure 9. Pirelli

Calendar: Women and

Man (2010) in

FASHIONOLOGIE By

Karl Lagerfeld (right)

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Last but not least, it is about products design. It cannot be denied that Karl

Lagerfeld active in several of fields, he created fashion products in any place by

them imagination. In figure 8, a unique collaboration in design and craftsmanship,

Karl Lagerfeld cooperation with Sweden glass manufacturing brand Orrefors,and launch out a series of glass products, including: the vase, cup, glass and so on,

and moreover use three kinds of color combination black, ivory, transparent color,and the design of the body cup extremely line sense, which engraved with Karl

Lagerfeld name abbreviations. Because of Orrefors, which is Supplier to the

Sweden royal, glassware brand, and become the collection. In 2008, Karl

Lagerfeld and Germany toy company Steiff cooperation for the theme of the

introduction to his teddy bear with moderate humor, a little curiosity. The French

romantic Valentines Day stamps issue in 2004, this stamp image is a perfume

bottles that fashionable woman necessary had. The stamp has good sales after

the issued. Certainlythis stamp design is also from Karl Lagerfeld designer.

In Dec 2011, located on the Boulevard

Haussmann in Paris Printemps, in addition,

this time invited the Chanel's artistic

director Karl Lagerfeld has designed a

product about dancing dolls called

"Mademoiselle Coco and present display

window show called Dreams of Far Aways.

And that have a lot of the dolls By Karl

Lagerfelds prototype also show in the

window (fig 11), with many differentshapes. Those display windows design

ideas from 11 countries that London, New York, Paris, Shanghai, Milan etc. This

display windows stories of the scene with a distinctly local flavor, looks very

luxuriant and art.

In figure 12 and figure 13, show the picture about Diet Coke Limited Edition

Collection by Karl Lagerfeld and Coca Cola Light. Karl Lagerfeld created a limit

diet coke bottle, and got a great influence. And then, in 2011, he corporation with

Coca-Cola again, and publish the trio coke bottle Diet Coke Limited EditionCollection by Karl Lagerfeld. This kind of edition of set limit to diet coke bottleable the silhouette of a comment: straight suit, signs ponytail, the most attractive

Figure 13. 'Dreams Of Far Away' by Karl

Lagerfeld for Printemps by voyatzis

Figure 14. Diet Coke Limited Edition Collection by Karl Lagerfeld2012Own Photograph

Figure 15. Coca Cola Light advertisement (2010) in VOGUE ITALY By VOGUE

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is the body of different decorative pattern design. The bottles with black, white,

pink as the theme color, Karl Lagerfeld trademark ponytail. Three different

bodies were printed on the silver wave card points, black diamond and pink

ribbon winding, and with the pink closures. As is known to all Karl Lagerfeld has

thin body because of successfully lose weight, so that he is very persuasive

design.

So all in all, Karl Lagerfeld definitely is the most active cross-border designer, and

it cannot be denied that he active in several of fields. For his design or created

that with more or less postmodernism, whatever the design or photography, all

those have ideas of postmodernism about it is rejected the idea of the "whole",

emphasize heterogeneity, particularity and uniqueness. In Karl Lagerfeld

projects, we can see that he has great ability to perfect use different elements in

different fields. So, Karl Lagerfeld can great to annotation postmodernisms idealess is more(Cahoone, L, E., 2003).

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List of illustrationsFigure 1. Chanel Trouser suit, Sequins and elasticated grosgrain lined in silk, Lycra

leggings, designed by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel (1991) By Paris V&A Images in

Semple2011: website

Figure 2. Fall-winter 2008/9 haute couture shows dcor (2008) By Chanel in Chanel

News2008: Website

Figure 3. FENDI on the great wall fashion show (distant view) By FENDI: Website

Figure 4. FENDI ON THE GREAT WALL (2007) By FENDI: Website

Figure 5. FENDI on the great wall fashion show about black Chinese dress chirpaur with

ShuiXiu(2007) By FENDI: Website

Figure 6. Catwalk: Pink leather windbreaker (2005) By Bowles, H in STYLE2005:Website

Figure7. A mink iPod helmet (UNKNOWN) by GRAZIA in GRAZIA.COM: Website

Figure 8. Pirelli Calendar: Woman with Archery (2010) By Karl Lagerfeld in

FASHIONOLOGIE2010: WEBSITE

Figure 9. Pirelli Calendar: Women and Man (2010) By Karl Lagerfeld inFASHIONOLOGIE2010: WEBSITE

Figure 10. A unique collaborationin design and craftsmanship (unknown) by Orrefors in

orrefors.com: Website

Figure 11. Teddy bear by Steiff and Karl Lagerfeld (UNKNOWN) by Steiff: Websit

Figure 12. French Valentines Day stamps (2012) By Jeff: Website

Figure 13. 'Dreams Of Far Away' by Karl Lagerfeld for Printemps (2011) by Voyatzis:

Website

Figure 14. Coca Cola Light advertisement (2010) By VOGUE in VOGUE ITALY2010

Website

Figure 15. Diet Coke Limited Edition Collection by Karl Lagerfeld2012OwnPhotograph2012

List of Citations(Cahoone, 2003)(Semple, 2011: online)

(Lagerfeld Confidential, 2007:film)

(KARL LARGERFELD, 2012: online)

(Pirelli, 2010: online)

(Chanel, 2011: online)

BibliographyBook:

Cahoone, L, E. (2003) From modernism to postmodernism: an anthology, United States

Wiley-Blackwell

Additional Sources:

Film: Lagerfeld Confidential (2007) dir. Rodolphe Marconi, FRANCE: Realitism andBackup Films Production

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Website:

Bowles, H (2005) Lagerfeld Gallery [online] STYLE2005

Available at: http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/F2005RTW-

LGALLERY?page=2[Accessed 04 MAR 2012]

Chanel News (2008) fall-winter 2008/9 haute couture show dcor[online]. CHANEL.Available at: http://chanel-news.chanel.com/en/archives/20089-fall-winter-haute-

couture-show/[Accessed 04 MAR 2012]

Chanel News (2011) Karl Lagerfeld at the salon de la photo in Paris [online]. CHANEL.Available at: http://chanel-news.chanel.com/en/by-karl/karl-lagerfeld-at-the-salon-de-

la-photo-in-paris/ [Accessed 13 MAR 2012]

FENDI, FENDI ON THE WALL [online], FENDI.Available at: http://www.fendi.com/#/en/breakingnews/CATWALK/fendi-wall-beijing

[Accessed 04 MAR 2012]

FASHIONOLOGIE(2010) Preview Karl Lagerfeld's Pirelli 2011 Calendar with Erin

Wasson, Baptiste Giabiconi, and More (NSFW), San Francisco: SUGAR INC.

Available at: http://www.fashionologie.com/Photos-Karl-Lagerfelds-2011-Pirelli-Calendar-Julianne-Moore-Baptiste-Giabiconi-Erin-Wasson-More-12322530 [Accessed

04 MAR 2012]

GRAZIA (unknown) READY-TO-WEAR AW 09-10 [online] GRAZIA.COM

Available at:

http://grazia.ninemsn.com.au/slideshow_ajax.aspx?sectionid=8828&sectionnam

e=catwalk&subsectionid=151858&subsectionname=rtwautumnwinter0910_karl

lagerfeld[Accessed 13 MAR 2012]

Jeff (2012) Lafayette Karl Lagerfelds Multiple Identities [online] voguebrand

Available at: http://voguebrand.wordpress.com/2012/03/27/lafayette-karl-lagerfelds-

multiple-identities/ [Accessed 13 MAR 2012]

Orrefors (unknown) ORREFORS BY KARL LAGERFELD [online] orrefors.com Available at:

http://www.orrefors.com/karllagerfeld/the-collaboration [Accessed 13 MAR 2012]

Pirelli (2010) Pirelli in Moscow presenting the 2011 calendar MYTHOLOGY created byKarl Lagerfeld [online] Pirelli.com

Available at: http://www.pirelli.com/tire/us/en/news/2010/11/30/pirelli-in-moscow-

presenting-the-2011-calendar- mythologycreated-by-karl-lagerfeld/[Accessed 13 MAR

2012]

Steiff (unknown) Teddybar Karl Lagerfeld [online] Steiff

Available at: http://www.steiff.de/site/SWF/lagerfeld/index.php [Accessed 13 MAR

2012]

Semple, M (2011) Postmodernism: Style and Subversion 1970-1990[online]. MaggieSemple Limited

Available at: http://www.maggiesemple.com/blog/2011/10/10/postmodernism-style-

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http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/F2005RTW-LGALLERY?page=2http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/F2005RTW-LGALLERY?page=2http://www.fashionologie.com/user/fashionologiehttp://grazia.ninemsn.com.au/slideshow_ajax.aspx?sectionid=8828&sectionname=catwalk&subsectionid=151858&subsectionname=rtwautumnwinter0910_karllagerfeldhttp://grazia.ninemsn.com.au/slideshow_ajax.aspx?sectionid=8828&sectionname=catwalk&subsectionid=151858&subsectionname=rtwautumnwinter0910_karllagerfeldhttp://grazia.ninemsn.com.au/slideshow_ajax.aspx?sectionid=8828&sectionname=catwalk&subsectionid=151858&subsectionname=rtwautumnwinter0910_karllagerfeldhttp://grazia.ninemsn.com.au/slideshow_ajax.aspx?sectionid=8828&sectionname=catwalk&subsectionid=151858&subsectionname=rtwautumnwinter0910_karllagerfeldhttp://www.pirelli.com/tire/us/en/news/2010/11/30/pirelli-in-moscow-presenting-the-2011-calendar-%E2%80%9Cmythology%E2%80%9Dcreated-by-karl-lagerfeld/http://www.pirelli.com/tire/us/en/news/2010/11/30/pirelli-in-moscow-presenting-the-2011-calendar-%E2%80%9Cmythology%E2%80%9Dcreated-by-karl-lagerfeld/http://www.pirelli.com/tire/us/en/news/2010/11/30/pirelli-in-moscow-presenting-the-2011-calendar-%E2%80%9Cmythology%E2%80%9Dcreated-by-karl-lagerfeld/http://www.pirelli.com/tire/us/en/news/2010/11/30/pirelli-in-moscow-presenting-the-2011-calendar-%E2%80%9Cmythology%E2%80%9Dcreated-by-karl-lagerfeld/http://www.pirelli.com/tire/us/en/news/2010/11/30/pirelli-in-moscow-presenting-the-2011-calendar-%E2%80%9Cmythology%E2%80%9Dcreated-by-karl-lagerfeld/http://www.pirelli.com/tire/us/en/news/2010/11/30/pirelli-in-moscow-presenting-the-2011-calendar-%E2%80%9Cmythology%E2%80%9Dcreated-by-karl-lagerfeld/http://grazia.ninemsn.com.au/slideshow_ajax.aspx?sectionid=8828&sectionname=catwalk&subsectionid=151858&subsectionname=rtwautumnwinter0910_karllagerfeldhttp://grazia.ninemsn.com.au/slideshow_ajax.aspx?sectionid=8828&sectionname=catwalk&subsectionid=151858&subsectionname=rtwautumnwinter0910_karllagerfeldhttp://grazia.ninemsn.com.au/slideshow_ajax.aspx?sectionid=8828&sectionname=catwalk&subsectionid=151858&subsectionname=rtwautumnwinter0910_karllagerfeldhttp://www.fashionologie.com/user/fashionologiehttp://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/F2005RTW-LGALLERY?page=2http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/F2005RTW-LGALLERY?page=2


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subversion-1970-1990/[Accessed 04 MAR 2012]

Voyatzis, C (2011)'Dreams Of Far Away' by Karl Lagerfeld for Printemps [online]yatzer.com

Available at: http://www.yatzer.com/Dreams-Of-Far-Away-by-Karl-Lagerfeld-for-Printemps [Accessed 13 MAR 2012]

VOGUE (2010) Coco goes light: Coco Rocha is the new face of Coca Cola Light, ITALIA:

VOGUE.

Available at: http://www.vogue.it/en/magazine/daily-news/2010/04/coca-cola-light-

kl[Accessed 04 MAR 2012]

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