poster26
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THE GARMENT OF A BYZANTINE E THE GARMENT OF A BYZANTINE E THE GARMENT OF A BYZANTINE E OBSERVATION & ANAL OBSERVATION & ANAL OBSERVATION & ANAL C KARYDIS 1 * A SIATOU C. KARYDIS 1 *, A. SIATOU C. KARYDIS , A. SIATOU 1 Higher Ecclesiastical Academy of Athens Chrysallidos 38 & Themist 1 Higher Ecclesiastical Academy of Athens, Chrysallidos 38 & Themist 2 Conservator Restorer of Antiquities and Works of Art Th 2 Conservator‐Restorer of Antiquities and Works of Art, Th. 3D fC i fA i ii dW k fA TEI 3. Department of Conservation of Antiquities and Works of Art, TEI o Introduction Introduction Ecclesiastical textiles of the post Byzantine period have been scarcely fully studied despite the relatively large and impressiv Ecclesiastical textiles of the post‐Byzantine period have been scarcely fully studied, despite the relatively large and impressiv l d f l bl f h l f h d l l h h limited information is available for these precious textiles of the eastern Euro‐Mediterranean cultural heritage. This poster sakkoi located in the monastic centre of Holy Mountain of Athos. The Athonian inhabitant monasteries were establish in the 4 Orthodox Church creating an outstanding universal historical collection, as it is recognized by UNESCO. Special rules, oppos Orthodox Church creating an outstanding universal historical collection, as it is recognized by UNESCO. Special rules, oppos restrict the transport and sampling of objects and therefore little research has been done one them restrict the transport and sampling of objects and therefore little research has been done one them. After surveying fifty two sakkoi seven were chosen for further study because of their detailed attribution to or associatio After surveying fifty two sakkoi, seven were chosen for further study because of their detailed attribution to, or associatio t diti t th B ti I i I Ti i ki h ld f 969 t 976 AD d i td h i tradition to the Byzantine emperor Ioannis I Tsimiskis who ruled from 969 to 976 AD, and is presented herein. B k d If i Background Information Th kk (Fi 1) i lit i l t bli The sakkos (Fig. 1) is a liturgical garment resembling a dalmatic, worn by the Orthodox Christian Bishops during the Divine Liturgy . This sakkos is assigned by tradition to an important historical figure, Ioannis I Tsimiskis who played integral role in the ecclesiastical history of the Christian Orthodox role in the ecclesiastical history of the Christian Orthodox Church and the history of Mount Athos In 1915 prf Church and the history of Mount Athos. In 1915 prf . Sotiriou made the assumption that this garment is of a Sotiriou made the assumption that this garment is of a l d (l th b i i f 6 th ) later date (late 15 th beginning of 16 th c). Within this study the authenticity of the attribution or the Within this study the authenticity of the attribution or the li i i fl h b i d d hi stylistic influences has been questioned and this garment is believed not to be a sakkos in the true sense but an adapted robe, likely to have belonged to a man of high statue Observation of the ground fabric identified the statue. Observation of the ground fabric identified the presence of pomegranate designs as the main motif which presence of pomegranate designs as the main motif which i tt ib t d t It li t til f th 15 th i is attributed to Italian textiles of the 15 th c. renaissance. However, the embroidery motifs such as heraldic images, lions, the four imperial double‐headed eagles and the birds betray Ottoman influences and are attributed to the birds betray Ottoman influences and are attributed to the 16 th ‐17 th c 16 ‐17 c. Fig.2 Fig 1 Detail of the ground Fig.1 Front side of the I. Tsimiskis sakkos, displayed in Iveron monastery fabric s Front side of the I. Tsimiskis sakkos, displayed in Iveron monastery Left, brown silk Ri ht d ilk Right, red silk Brief Description Brief Description Th i f b d k (Fi 2) d d ih k f b h h d l h i l lb The garment is of a brown damask (Fig. 2), decorated with a network of branches that surround large horizontal lobate palmettos enclosing a pomegranate terminating with a crown and the spaces filled with small rosettes. Four embroidered double‐headed eagles are on the front of the garment are worked with blue long split stitch (Figs. 3a,c). In total the garment is constructed by 46 pieces sewn together Reattachments made of red silk fabrics (Figs 3be) In total the garment is constructed by 46 pieces sewn together . Reattachments made of red silk fabrics (Figs. 3b,e) decorated with embroidery motifs are located around the neck and the sleeves edges decorated with embroidery motifs are located around the neck and the sleeves edges. The Metal Threads Based on the general morphology, metal threads used in this garment can be classified into two main types: Based on the general morphology, metal threads used in this garment can be classified into two main types: a Solid wire (Figs 3d 7) are used for the entire decoration motifs of the brown ground fabric (Figs 2 3) and a. Solid wire (Figs. 3d,7), are used for the entire decoration motifs of the brown ground fabric (Figs.2, 3) and b S lid tl ti (Fi 4 5) d f th fl l d ti b di d f th ll b. Solid metal strip (Figs. 4,5) are used for the floral decoration by wounding around a core of the yellow lk fb ( ) silk fibre yarn (Fig. 4). In both cases the metal threads were couched on the ground fabric following the Byzantine and post Byzantine In both cases the metal threads were couched on the ground fabric following the Byzantine and post‐Byzantine i hi ll d k ki hi h i d h d il d construction techniques called kamarakia, which remained unchanged until nowdays. d b d a c e a c e Fig 3- Details showing the main decoration motifs found on the sakkos Fig. 3 Details showing the main decoration motifs found on the sakkos a. The double headed eagles. b. The reverse side of the neck area, c. The two lions, d. The solid wire worked on the ground fabric, a. The double headed eagles. b. The reverse side of the neck area, c. The two lions, d. The solid wire worked on the ground fabric, e. The sleeve area E i l Experimental Th i i l h d k f h kk i f l l ( li i d if ibl The aim was to examine metal threads taken from the sakkos in terms of elemental (qualitative and if possible quantitative) analysis both for the core metal and the corrosion products. Surface examination in very high magnification can give important information about the morphology of the corrosion and reveal hidden cracks that can result to the deterioration of the thread Cross‐section can give a clear image of the metal core and thus more accurate result to the deterioration of the thread. Cross section can give a clear image of the metal core and thus more accurate results Furthermore the extend of the corrosion is revealed through observation and elemental analysis Prior to SEM results. Furthermore, the extend of the corrosion is revealed through observation and elemental analysis. Prior to SEM‐ EDS i ti O ti l Mi (OM) d i d t i ll if ti th f t i EDS examination Optical Microscopy (OM) was used in order to acquire overall information on the manufacturing techniques and state of preservation. Th l tk f l d d d f th f t b id (Fi 3 d) d th k Three samples were taken from already damaged areas from the front embroidery area (Figs. 3a,c,d) and the neck area ( b) h l d l h ( d) h ld h d b d l (Fig. 3b). The samples measured 3cm in length (wrapped). For the solid wire thread observation and analysis were performed on the surface and the cross section. On the other hand for the solid metal strip examination was performed also on the inner side in order to attain information on the preservation state. Therefore, the thread had to be also on the inner side in order to attain information on the preservation state. Therefore, the thread had to be unwrapped unwrapped. Regarding the sample preparation for the SEM‐EDS examination since metal threads are conductive materials no Regarding the sample preparation for the SEM EDS examination since metal threads are conductive materials no additional processing (i e carbon or gold plating) was required A stainless steel blade was used for the collection of additional processing (i.e. carbon or gold plating) was required. A stainless steel blade was used for the collection of 5mm of thread for the surface observation and 2mm cross sections All cut areas were mounted on a conductive 5mm of thread for the surface observation and 2mm cross‐sections. All cut areas were mounted on a conductive dh i t ( b tb k100 A ® Si tifi ) adhesive tape (carbon tabs, pk100, Agar ® Scientific). Most commonly on these types of luxurious textiles metal threads are either silver or gold and more rarely copper Most commonly on these types of luxurious textiles metal threads are either silver or gold and more rarely copper . Gildi i ft d th d f ii ii th f t i t (J h t 2002) SEM EDS l i Gilding is often used as a method of minimizing the manufacturing cost (Johnstone: 2002). SEM‐EDS analysis on cross sections can clearly reveal the existence of a gilding layer and determine its thickness. Therefore, line scans on cross‐ sections were performed in order to observe the distribution of the alloying elements of the metal core. EMPEROR FROM MOUNT ATHOS EMPEROR FROM MOUNT ATHOS: EMPEROR FROM MOUNT ATHOS: LYSIS USING SEM EDS LYSIS USING SEM ‐ EDS LYSIS USING SEM ‐ EDS U 2 d A KARA MP OTSOS 3 U 2 and A. KARA MP OTSOS 3 U and A. KARA MP OTSOS tokleous 14561 Nea Kifisia Athens Greece c karydis@gmail com tokleous. 14561, Nea Kifisia, Athens, Greece, [email protected] Anninou 26 11141 Athens Greece a siatou@gmail com Anninou 26, 11141, Athens, Greece, [email protected] fAh A S id 12210 E l G k b@ i h of Athens, Ag. Spyridonos 12210, Egaleo , Greece, [email protected] ve collections of garments which are spread around the numerous Christian Orthodox monasteries around the world Very ve collections of garments which are spread around the numerous Christian Orthodox monasteries around the world. Very f h f d h hl d l l l f h h hd h h ll d is part of a research focused on the Patriarchal and Episcopal liturgical garments of the Christian Orthodox Church called 4 th ‐5 th c. by Byzantine emperors and have ever since played a significant role to the history, art and spiritual life of the Greek sed by the Church limit the access to the monasteries to female researchers, additionally Greek laws on cultural heritage sed by the Church limit the access to the monasteries to female researchers, additionally Greek laws on cultural heritage on with well documented and well known historic figures One of the most famous sakkos on Mount Athos is assigned by on with, well documented and well known historic figures. One of the most famous sakkos on Mount Athos is assigned by Results a. Optical Microscopy OM could not clearly determine the manufacturing alloy the thread could either be silver or gold In general the OM could not clearly determine the manufacturing alloy, the thread could either be silver or gold. In general the ti tt t b i fi diti ith t h d it i d t S th d l f preservation state appears to be in a fair condition without heavy deposits or corrosion products. Scratches and loss of l ll l d ff d l l h f d b l f d k material were apparent in all samples in different deterioration level. The entire surface is covered by a layer of dark corrosion products that have caused loss of its shiny appearance. The colour appears dark‐brown to black and grey forming distinguished spots. However, the depth is rather small and is not considered to have caused mechanical decay forming distinguished spots. However, the depth is rather small and is not considered to have caused mechanical decay to the entire metal thread (i e breaking) to the entire metal thread (i.e. breaking). b SEM EDS b. SEM‐EDS •State of preservation Scratches and loss of the metal were observed on all samples during surface observation elemental analysis on the Scratches and loss of the metal were observed on all samples during surface observation, elemental analysis on the corrosion products revealed the existence of oxygen and chloride thus the darkening of the surface observed by OM can corrosion products revealed the existence of oxygen and chloride, thus the darkening of the surface observed by OM can b li d F th lid i th i d t if l d O th th h d th lid tl ti be explained. For the solid wire the corrosion products seem uniformly spread. On the other hand the solid metal strip seems less deteriorated on the inner side, suggesting that the external damage can be attributed to wear . It should however be noted that the sampling was performed from already damaged areas, and therefore degradation phenomena may be more extended. phenomena may be more extended. •Compositional alloys According to EDS analysis silver and gold are the only elements found on both types of the metal threads. According to EDS analysis silver and gold are the only elements found on both types of the metal threads. a Solid wire a. Solid wire Due to lack of adequate sample quantity of the solid wire thread analysis was limited to the surface During analysis Due to lack of adequate sample quantity of the solid wire thread, analysis was limited to the surface. During analysis ddi i l l l d ih i h (i hl id ) id d A l f additional elements related with corrosion phenomena (i.e. oxygen, chloride) were not considered. An average value of 40% Ag and 60 % Au, was detected. b. Solid metal strip Regarding the solid metal strip elemental analysis was based on a cross‐section an average value of 88% Ag and 12% Au Regarding the solid metal strip elemental analysis was based on a cross section, an average value of 88% Ag and 12% Au was detected A line scan was additionally preformed in order to exclude the presence on gilding but also to examine the was detected. A line scan was additionally preformed in order to exclude the presence on gilding, but also to examine the iti l di t ib ti A ll ti f th i t l t ( il d ld) b d ith compositional distribution. An uneven allocation of the main component elements (silver and gold) was observed with higher concentration on one side however this side could be either the outer or the inner side on the metal thread. The percentage of the amount of gold in the cross section analysis and the fact that there was no increase of the gold distribution at the edges on the line scan excluded the presence of gilding. distribution at the edges on the line scan excluded the presence of gilding. Fig 4 –Optical Microscopy Fig.4 –Optical Microscopy Left, detail of the solid metal strip (magnification x100) Fig.6–Line scan Left, detail of the solid metal strip (magnification x100) Right, detail on the inner side of the unwrapped solid metal strip Fig.6 Line scan Elemental analysis of the cross section of the solid metal strip (magnification x100) Fig.5 –SEM Fig.5 SEM Left, detail of the solid metal strip (magnification x350) Fig.7 –SEM Right, detail on the inner side of the unwrapped solid metal Fig.7 SEM Left, detail of the solid wire (magnification x550) strip (magnification x350) Right, detail from the corrosion products (magnification x4500) C l i Conclusions The use of SEM EDS has provided information about the manufacturing alloys and state of preservation of the metal The use of SEM‐EDS has provided information about the manufacturing alloys and state of preservation of the metal h d Th i ii l f h l h d f h i f bi il ld ll hil threads. The main composition elements of the metal threads of the garment consist of a binary silver‐gold alloy while the presence of gilding was not identified. Th l ti tt f th tl th d b h t i d fi th i d t b d The general preservation state of the metal threads can be characterized as fair; the corrosion products observed mainly affect the aesthetic overall appearance of the garment. The optical examination of the threads and the associated colour of the corrosion products led to the assumption that it was silver tarnishing. EDS analysis though excluded the presence of sulphur . However, the elements detected were oxygen and chloride ensuring thus the excluded the presence of sulphur . However, the elements detected were oxygen and chloride ensuring thus the formation of silver oxide and silver chloride layers forming on both the inner and the outer side of the metal threads formation of silver oxide and silver chloride layers forming on both the inner and the outer side of the metal threads. Thi t t ith th l ti f th bj t hi h i f d i l i t hi h i h i This comes to agreement with the location of the objects, which is found in a rural environment which is however in h proximity to the sea. This research sheds light onto one of the most important ecclesiastical liturgical garments the sakkos adding to the This research sheds light onto one of the most important ecclesiastical liturgical garments, the sakkos, adding to the bj h di i f h li i I h kk i h f hi i d object another dimension apart from the religious one. It puts the sakkos into the context of art history, science and preventive conservation principles, offering an understanding of all the parameters necessary to keep these garments ‘alive’ . References References FANELLI R 1981 Fi C t i f It li T til P t C di Ri i D iti di P t •FANELLI, R. 1981. Five Centuries of Italian Textiles. Prato: Cassa di Risparmi e Depositi di Prato. GEIJER A 19 9 A Hi fT il A L d P ld R hF dLd •GEIJER, A. 1979. A History of Textile Art. London: Pasold Research Fund Ltd. •JARO, M and TOTH, A. 1991. Scientific Identification of European Metal Thread Manufacturing Techniques of the 17 th - 19 th c. Endeavour - New Series, 15 (4), 175-184. •JOHNSTONE, P. 2002. High Fashion in the Church. Leeds: Maney . •KARYDIS, C. 2009. The Orthodox Christian Sakkos: Ecclesiastical Garments dating to the 15 th - 20 th c. from the Holy Mountain of Athos. Collection Survey, Scientific Analysis & Preventive Conservation (Unpublished PhD thesis, University Mountain of Athos. Collection Survey, Scientific Analysis & Preventive Conservation (Unpublished PhD thesis, University of Lincoln- Conservation Department UK) of Lincoln Conservation Department, UK). Acknowledgements Acknowledgements This work was funded by the Holy Synod of the Orthodox Church of Greece Thanks are also due to Dr Theoulakis P This work was funded by the Holy Synod of the Orthodox Church of Greece. Thanks are also due to Dr . Theoulakis P ., h d f th D t t f C ti d R t ti f A ti iti d W k f At (TEI f Ath ) f idi head of the Department of Conservation and Restoration of Antiquities and Works of Art (TEI of Athens) for providing t lb t i d i t access to laboratories and equipment.
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tokleous14561NeaKifisiaAthensGreececkarydis@gmailcom tokleous. 14561, NeaKifisia, Athens, Greece, [email protected] Anninou2611141AthensGreeceasiatou@gmailcom Anninou26, 11141, Athens, Greece, [email protected] fAh A S id 12210E l G k b@ i h of Athens, Ag. Spyridonos12210, Egaleo, Greece, [email protected] g py g g B k dI f i BackgroundInformation g a.OpticalMicroscopy p py C l i Conclusions E i l Experimental p ReferencesReferences Introduction Introduction bSEMEDS b.SEM‐EDS
Transcript of poster26
THE GARMENT OF A BYZANTINE ETHE GARMENT OF A BYZANTINE ETHE GARMENT OF A BYZANTINE EOBSERVATION & ANALOBSERVATION & ANALOBSERVATION & ANAL
C KARYDIS1* A SIATOUC. KARYDIS1*, A. SIATOUC. KARYDIS , A. SIATOU
1 Higher Ecclesiastical Academy of Athens Chrysallidos 38 & Themist1 Higher Ecclesiastical Academy of Athens, Chrysallidos 38 & Themist
2 Conservator Restorer of Antiquities and Works of Art Th2 Conservator‐Restorer of Antiquities and Works of Art, Th.
3 D f C i f A i i i d W k f A TEI3. Department of Conservation of Antiquities and Works of Art, TEI op q
IntroductionIntroductionEcclesiastical textiles of the post Byzantine period have been scarcely fully studied despite the relatively large and impressivEcclesiastical textiles of the post‐Byzantine period have been scarcely fully studied, despite the relatively large and impressivl d f l bl f h l f h d l l h hlimited information is available for these precious textiles of the eastern Euro‐Mediterranean cultural heritage. This postersakkoi located in the monastic centre of Holy Mountain of Athos. The Athonian inhabitant monasteries were establish in the 4yOrthodox Church creating an outstanding universal historical collection, as it is recognized by UNESCO. Special rules, opposOrthodox Church creating an outstanding universal historical collection, as it is recognized by UNESCO. Special rules, opposrestrict the transport and sampling of objects and therefore little research has been done one themrestrict the transport and sampling of objects and therefore little research has been done one them.After surveying fifty two sakkoi seven were chosen for further study because of their detailed attribution to or associatioAfter surveying fifty two sakkoi, seven were chosen for further study because of their detailed attribution to, or associatiot diti t th B ti I i I T i i ki h l d f 969 t 976 AD d i t d h itradition to the Byzantine emperor Ioannis I Tsimiskis who ruled from 969 to 976 AD, and is presented herein.
B k d I f iBackground InformationgTh kk (Fi 1) i lit i l t bliThe sakkos (Fig. 1) is a liturgical garment resembling adalmatic, worn by the Orthodox Christian Bishops duringthe Divine Liturgy.gy
This sakkos is assigned by tradition to an importanthistorical figure, Ioannis I Tsimiskis who played integralg , p y grole in the ecclesiastical history of the Christian Orthodoxrole in the ecclesiastical history of the Christian OrthodoxChurch and the history of Mount Athos In 1915 prfChurch and the history of Mount Athos. In 1915 prf.Sotiriou made the assumption that this garment is of aSotiriou made the assumption that this garment is of al d (l th b i i f 6th )later date (late 15th beginning of 16th c).
Within this study the authenticity of the attribution or theWithin this study the authenticity of the attribution or theli i i fl h b i d d histylistic influences has been questioned and this garment
is believed not to be a sakkos in the true sense but anadapted robe, likely to have belonged to a man of highp , y g gstatue Observation of the ground fabric identified thestatue. Observation of the ground fabric identified thepresence of pomegranate designs as the main motif whichpresence of pomegranate designs as the main motif whichi tt ib t d t It li t til f th 15th iis attributed to Italian textiles of the 15th c. renaissance.However, the embroidery motifs such as heraldic images,lions, the four imperial double‐headed eagles and the, p gbirds betray Ottoman influences and are attributed to thebirds betray Ottoman influences and are attributed to the16th‐17th c16 ‐17 c.
Fig.2Fig 1
gDetail of the ground Fig.1
Front side of the I. Tsimiskis sakkos, displayed in Iveron monastery fabric sFront side of the I. Tsimiskis sakkos, displayed in Iveron monasteryLeft, brown silkRi ht d ilkRight, red silk
Brief DescriptionBrief DescriptionTh i f b d k (Fi 2) d d i h k f b h h d l h i l l bThe garment is of a brown damask (Fig. 2), decorated with a network of branches that surround large horizontal lobatepalmettos enclosing a pomegranate terminating with a crown and the spaces filled with small rosettes. Fourembroidered double‐headed eagles are on the front of the garment are worked with blue long split stitch (Figs. 3a,c).g g g p ( g , )In total the garment is constructed by 46 pieces sewn together Reattachments made of red silk fabrics (Figs 3b e)In total the garment is constructed by 46 pieces sewn together. Reattachments made of red silk fabrics (Figs. 3b,e)decorated with embroidery motifs are located around the neck and the sleeves edgesdecorated with embroidery motifs are located around the neck and the sleeves edges.
The Metal ThreadsBased on the general morphology, metal threads used in this garment can be classified into two main types:Based on the general morphology, metal threads used in this garment can be classified into two main types:a Solid wire (Figs 3d 7) are used for the entire decoration motifs of the brown ground fabric (Figs 2 3) anda. Solid wire (Figs. 3d,7), are used for the entire decoration motifs of the brown ground fabric (Figs.2, 3) andb S lid t l t i (Fi 4 5) d f th fl l d ti b di d f th llb. Solid metal strip (Figs. 4,5) are used for the floral decoration by wounding around a core of the yellow
lk f b ( )silk fibre yarn (Fig. 4).
In both cases the metal threads were couched on the ground fabric following the Byzantine and post ByzantineIn both cases the metal threads were couched on the ground fabric following the Byzantine and post‐Byzantinei h i ll d k ki hi h i d h d il dconstruction techniques called kamarakia, which remained unchanged until nowdays.
db d
a c ea c eFig 3- Details showing the main decoration motifs found on the sakkosFig. 3 Details showing the main decoration motifs found on the sakkosa. The double headed eagles. b. The reverse side of the neck area, c. The two lions, d. The solid wire worked on the ground fabric,a. The double headed eagles. b. The reverse side of the neck area, c. The two lions, d. The solid wire worked on the ground fabric, e. The sleeve area
E i lExperimentalpTh i i l h d k f h kk i f l l ( li i d if iblThe aim was to examine metal threads taken from the sakkos in terms of elemental (qualitative and if possiblequantitative) analysis both for the core metal and the corrosion products. Surface examination in very highmagnification can give important information about the morphology of the corrosion and reveal hidden cracks that cang g p p gyresult to the deterioration of the thread Cross‐section can give a clear image of the metal core and thus more accurateresult to the deterioration of the thread. Cross section can give a clear image of the metal core and thus more accurateresults Furthermore the extend of the corrosion is revealed through observation and elemental analysis Prior to SEMresults. Furthermore, the extend of the corrosion is revealed through observation and elemental analysis. Prior to SEM‐EDS i ti O ti l Mi (OM) d i d t i ll i f ti th f t iEDS examination Optical Microscopy (OM) was used in order to acquire overall information on the manufacturingtechniques and state of preservation.
Th l t k f l d d d f th f t b id (Fi 3 d) d th kThree samples were taken from already damaged areas from the front embroidery area (Figs. 3a,c,d) and the neck area( b) h l d l h ( d) h l d h d b d l(Fig. 3b). The samples measured 3cm in length (wrapped). For the solid wire thread observation and analysis wereperformed on the surface and the cross section. On the other hand for the solid metal strip examination was performedp p palso on the inner side in order to attain information on the preservation state. Therefore, the thread had to bealso on the inner side in order to attain information on the preservation state. Therefore, the thread had to beunwrappedunwrapped.
Regarding the sample preparation for the SEM‐EDS examination since metal threads are conductive materials noRegarding the sample preparation for the SEM EDS examination since metal threads are conductive materials noadditional processing (i e carbon or gold plating) was required A stainless steel blade was used for the collection ofadditional processing (i.e. carbon or gold plating) was required. A stainless steel blade was used for the collection of5mm of thread for the surface observation and 2mm cross sections All cut areas were mounted on a conductive5mm of thread for the surface observation and 2mm cross‐sections. All cut areas were mounted on a conductivedh i t ( b t b k100 A ® S i tifi )adhesive tape (carbon tabs, pk100, Agar® Scientific).
Most commonly on these types of luxurious textiles metal threads are either silver or gold and more rarely copperMost commonly on these types of luxurious textiles metal threads are either silver or gold and more rarely copper.Gildi i ft d th d f i i i i th f t i t (J h t 2002) SEM EDS l iGilding is often used as a method of minimizing the manufacturing cost (Johnstone: 2002). SEM‐EDS analysis on crosssections can clearly reveal the existence of a gilding layer and determine its thickness. Therefore, line scans on cross‐sections were performed in order to observe the distribution of the alloying elements of the metal core.p y g
EMPEROR FROM MOUNT ATHOSEMPEROR FROM MOUNT ATHOS:EMPEROR FROM MOUNT ATHOS: LYSIS USING SEM EDSLYSIS USING SEM‐EDSLYSIS USING SEM‐EDS
U2 d A KARAMPOTSOS3U2 and A. KARAMPOTSOS3U and A. KARAMPOTSOS
tokleous 14561 Nea Kifisia Athens Greece c karydis@gmail comtokleous. 14561, Nea Kifisia, Athens, Greece, [email protected]
Anninou 26 11141 Athens Greece a siatou@gmail comAnninou 26, 11141, Athens, Greece, [email protected]
f A h A S id 12210 E l G k b@ i hof Athens, Ag. Spyridonos 12210, Egaleo, Greece, [email protected] py g g
ve collections of garments which are spread around the numerous Christian Orthodox monasteries around the world Veryve collections of garments which are spread around the numerous Christian Orthodox monasteries around the world. Veryf h f d h h l d l l l f h h h d h h ll dis part of a research focused on the Patriarchal and Episcopal liturgical garments of the Christian Orthodox Church called
4th ‐5th c. by Byzantine emperors and have ever since played a significant role to the history, art and spiritual life of the Greeky y p p y g y psed by the Church limit the access to the monasteries to female researchers, additionally Greek laws on cultural heritagesed by the Church limit the access to the monasteries to female researchers, additionally Greek laws on cultural heritage
on with well documented and well known historic figures One of the most famous sakkos on Mount Athos is assigned byon with, well documented and well known historic figures. One of the most famous sakkos on Mount Athos is assigned by
Results
a. Optical Microscopyp pyOM could not clearly determine the manufacturing alloy the thread could either be silver or gold In general theOM could not clearly determine the manufacturing alloy, the thread could either be silver or gold. In general the
ti t t t b i f i diti ith t h d it i d t S t h d l fpreservation state appears to be in a fair condition without heavy deposits or corrosion products. Scratches and loss ofl ll l d ff d l l h f d b l f d kmaterial were apparent in all samples in different deterioration level. The entire surface is covered by a layer of dark
corrosion products that have caused loss of its shiny appearance. The colour appears dark‐brown to black and greyp y pp pp g yforming distinguished spots. However, the depth is rather small and is not considered to have caused mechanical decayforming distinguished spots. However, the depth is rather small and is not considered to have caused mechanical decayto the entire metal thread (i e breaking)to the entire metal thread (i.e. breaking).
b SEM EDSb. SEM‐EDS•State of preservationf pScratches and loss of the metal were observed on all samples during surface observation elemental analysis on theScratches and loss of the metal were observed on all samples during surface observation, elemental analysis on thecorrosion products revealed the existence of oxygen and chloride thus the darkening of the surface observed by OM cancorrosion products revealed the existence of oxygen and chloride, thus the darkening of the surface observed by OM canb l i d F th lid i th i d t if l d O th th h d th lid t l t ibe explained. For the solid wire the corrosion products seem uniformly spread. On the other hand the solid metal stripseems less deteriorated on the inner side, suggesting that the external damage can be attributed to wear. It shouldhowever be noted that the sampling was performed from already damaged areas, and therefore degradationp g p y g , gphenomena may be more extended.phenomena may be more extended.
•Compositional alloysp yAccording to EDS analysis silver and gold are the only elements found on both types of the metal threads.According to EDS analysis silver and gold are the only elements found on both types of the metal threads.a Solid wirea. Solid wireDue to lack of adequate sample quantity of the solid wire thread analysis was limited to the surface During analysisDue to lack of adequate sample quantity of the solid wire thread, analysis was limited to the surface. During analysisddi i l l l d i h i h (i hl id ) id d A l fadditional elements related with corrosion phenomena (i.e. oxygen, chloride) were not considered. An average value of40% Ag and 60 % Au, was detected.b. Solid metal strippRegarding the solid metal strip elemental analysis was based on a cross‐section an average value of 88% Ag and 12% AuRegarding the solid metal strip elemental analysis was based on a cross section, an average value of 88% Ag and 12% Auwas detected A line scan was additionally preformed in order to exclude the presence on gilding but also to examine thewas detected. A line scan was additionally preformed in order to exclude the presence on gilding, but also to examine the
iti l di t ib ti A ll ti f th i t l t ( il d ld) b d ithcompositional distribution. An uneven allocation of the main component elements (silver and gold) was observed withhigher concentration on one side however this side could be either the outer or the inner side on the metal thread.The percentage of the amount of gold in the cross section analysis and the fact that there was no increase of the goldp g g y gdistribution at the edges on the line scan excluded the presence of gilding.distribution at the edges on the line scan excluded the presence of gilding.
Fig 4 –Optical MicroscopyFig.4 –Optical MicroscopyLeft, detail of the solid metal strip (magnification x100) Fig.6–Line scanLeft, detail of the solid metal strip (magnification x100)Right, detail on the inner side of the unwrapped solid metal strip
Fig.6 Line scanElemental analysis of the cross section of the solid metal stripg , pp p
(magnification x100)y p
( g )
Fig.5 –SEMFig.5 SEMLeft, detail of the solid metal strip (magnification x350) Fig.7 –SEM, p ( g )Right, detail on the inner side of the unwrapped solid metal
Fig.7 SEMLeft, detail of the solid wire (magnification x550)
strip (magnification x350), ( g )
Right, detail from the corrosion products (magnification x4500)
C l iConclusionsThe use of SEM EDS has provided information about the manufacturing alloys and state of preservation of the metalThe use of SEM‐EDS has provided information about the manufacturing alloys and state of preservation of the metalh d Th i i i l f h l h d f h i f bi il ld ll hilthreads. The main composition elements of the metal threads of the garment consist of a binary silver‐gold alloy whilethe presence of gilding was not identified.
Th l ti t t f th t l th d b h t i d f i th i d t b dThe general preservation state of the metal threads can be characterized as fair; the corrosion products observedmainly affect the aesthetic overall appearance of the garment. The optical examination of the threads and theassociated colour of the corrosion products led to the assumption that it was silver tarnishing. EDS analysis thoughp p g y gexcluded the presence of sulphur. However, the elements detected were oxygen and chloride ensuring thus theexcluded the presence of sulphur. However, the elements detected were oxygen and chloride ensuring thus theformation of silver oxide and silver chloride layers forming on both the inner and the outer side of the metal threadsformation of silver oxide and silver chloride layers forming on both the inner and the outer side of the metal threads.Thi t t ith th l ti f th bj t hi h i f d i l i t hi h i h iThis comes to agreement with the location of the objects, which is found in a rural environment which is however in
hproximity to the sea.
This research sheds light onto one of the most important ecclesiastical liturgical garments the sakkos adding to theThis research sheds light onto one of the most important ecclesiastical liturgical garments, the sakkos, adding to thebj h di i f h li i I h kk i h f hi i dobject another dimension apart from the religious one. It puts the sakkos into the context of art history, science and
preventive conservation principles, offering an understanding of all the parameters necessary to keep these garments‘alive’.alive .
ReferencesReferencesFANELLI R 1981 Fi C t i f It li T til P t C di Ri i D iti di P t•FANELLI, R. 1981. Five Centuries of Italian Textiles. Prato: Cassa di Risparmi e Depositi di Prato. GEIJER A 19 9 A Hi f T il A L d P ld R h F d L d•GEIJER, A. 1979. A History of Textile Art. London: Pasold Research Fund Ltd.
•JARO, M and TOTH, A. 1991. Scientific Identification of European Metal Thread Manufacturing Techniques of the 17th-19th c. Endeavour- New Series, 15 (4), 175-184. ( )•JOHNSTONE, P. 2002. High Fashion in the Church. Leeds: Maney. , g y•KARYDIS, C. 2009. The Orthodox Christian Sakkos: Ecclesiastical Garments dating to the 15th- 20th c. from the Holy S, C 009 e O t odo C st a Sa os cc es ast ca Ga e ts dat g to t e 5 0 c o t e o yMountain of Athos. Collection Survey, Scientific Analysis & Preventive Conservation (Unpublished PhD thesis, UniversityMountain of Athos. Collection Survey, Scientific Analysis & Preventive Conservation (Unpublished PhD thesis, University of Lincoln- Conservation Department UK)of Lincoln Conservation Department, UK).
AcknowledgementsAcknowledgementsThis work was funded by the Holy Synod of the Orthodox Church of Greece Thanks are also due to Dr Theoulakis PThis work was funded by the Holy Synod of the Orthodox Church of Greece. Thanks are also due to Dr. Theoulakis P.,h d f th D t t f C ti d R t ti f A ti iti d W k f A t (TEI f Ath ) f idihead of the Department of Conservation and Restoration of Antiquities and Works of Art (TEI of Athens) for providing
t l b t i d i taccess to laboratories and equipment.
