POSTCARDS from KASHMIR

All afloat on the Dal Lake in SrinagarSrinagar lives around the Dal Lake. Much of the

city’s attractions are dotted along its non-circular

26 kms(16 miles) circumference; you should drive

all the wall the way around it. The entire population seems

to be herein the evenings. Some fish (wonder if it’s

legal?), others take evening walks. Groups of

young boys andmen can be seen drinking in their

cars parked along the lake – or even shaking a leg

or twoon the road to the music from their car

stereos. Unfortunately, a few (exceptions only) get

cacarried awayleaving beer bottles strewn around or

even passing lewd comments at women.

A blind woman rowing a Shikara in the Dal Lake at dawn

A Shikara (centre) going through house boats in the Dal Lake

The Dal

Lake

in evening

light

The Dal

Lake

in evening

light

The Dal

Lake

in evening

light

A floating shop

in the Dal Lake

selling daily

groceries and

supplies to those

who live in the

llake

A salesman

in a Shikara

selling silver

jewelry

Tips to Enjoy the Dal Lake

It may sound a clichéd to-do, but you have to hop on

to a Shikara for a ride on the Dal Lake. I did – atfirst

light and the last light too. A few times over. How do

you maximize the joy? My tips:

• Go for a ride anytime.

• Go • Go for a ride 45 minutes before sunset. See the

colours and reflections change all around as dusk

sets in.• Discuss the route before

you start off. Negotiate

rates – but don’t be too harsh. Let these guys earn a

bit.And chat up the Shikara owners – they have

wonderful stories to share.

• Shop till you sink, I mean drop. Salesmen on

• Shop till you sink, I mean drop. Salesmen on

Shikaras will float up to yours selling their wares –

silver jewelry, paper mache gifts, fine pashmina

shawls, dry fruits and more. Your Shikara guy can

also take you to the ‘floating market’ – shops

standing in the lake. Browse, negotiate, check the

quality but buy something – this micro economy can

do with some patronado with some patronage.

• Hop on to houseboats and look around. Accept tea

if offered. Some of them even throw late night

parties, open to all.

• Head out at the earliest – and every – opportunity.

Weather can turn unfavourable anytime.

The Good, Bad and Ugly of the Dal Lake• The Dal Lake is full of houseboats or floating accommodation, as far as the eye can see. How did thesebecome popular? The Dogra rulers of Kashmir had banned – which continues till date – outsiders frombuying property in the state. To beat the rule, the British (when they ruled India) got themselveshouseboats as a summer house. Even I want one!• The lake is shrinking – locals are landfilling pockets to literally manufacture land for homes and farms.PPolitical appeasement allows them to get away with murder (of the lake).• But the lake is said to be cleaner now than it has been for decades, thanks to money and effort going in.

The Dal Lak

e

being clean

ed -

both Shikara

s and

big machin

es are

used to kee

p it as

clean aspo

ssible

Shopping for vegetables in the Dal Lake – at 5:00 am

Let’s get organized at the Fruits and Vegetables Floating Market in the Dal Lake

Morning chatter before trading begins at the Fruits and Vegetables Floating Market in the Dal Lake

Ok, who will buy my stuff at the Fruits and Vegetables Floating Market in the Dal Lake?

That’s a lot of competing Shikaras at the Fruits and Vegetables Floating Market in theDal Lake

Want to buy flowers

from ‘Mr. Wonderfull

Flower Man’ at the

Fruits and Vegetables

Floating Market in the

Dal Lake?

What does the market look like today? At the Fruits and Vegetables Floating Market inthe Dal Lake

Aaarrrrrghh! Yes, this is the sound you will make when your alarm goes off at 4:30 a.m. It is time to headout to the daily vegetable market in the Dal Lake. Once in the Shikara, you will be glad for it.

I got a surreal feeling as I approached the marmarket, a half an hour ride away: there was a chill in the air, thefirst light was still trying to get through the shroud of darkness and all I could hear was the gentle sploshas my Shikara’s oars went into and out of the water.

And then they started appearing from behind the houseboats: buyers and sellers in their Shikaras, alllooking lilooking like silhouettes. And at the crack of dawn, as if on cue, the area was full of them and chatter.Trading had started, like on a stock market floor.

Sellers were farmers or traders. And buyers included houseboat owners, shopkeepers in town, othertraders and consumers. Mostly men, a handful of women. Trading in vegetables, fruits, flowers and seeds. How old is the marHow old is the market?

No one knows – seems to have been around forever. Volumes pick up as days get warmer and farm produce increases. I ended up with a Shikara full of veggies, flowers and seeds – purchases made out ofcourtesy from those who agreed to be interviewed. Buy some veggies yourself – the taste will linger in your mouth long after you have left Kashmir.

Travel Tip: The market starts at the crack of dawn - it is best to be there at that time itself. Trading does not last too long, perhaps just too long, perhaps just over an hour.

Tulips in full bloom during spring in Srinagar

Tulips are blooming close to home

Tulips in full bloom during spring in Srinagar

Tulips in full bloom during spring in Srinagar

Tulips in full bloom during spring in Srinagar

If it’s spring, it must be Srinagar. Specifically at the Tulip Garden, an uncharacteristically wonderful creation of the Government. The Tulip Garden comes alive for only 2-3 weeks with endless rows of tulipsof many different hues. The dates naturally change a bit every year – stay alert with your bags packed tohead out as soon as you hear news of their blooming. The Keukenhof Flower Gardens in Holland withtheir seven million bulbs may be the gold standard for tulip gazing, but I am not sure if they can matchthe setting in Srinagar: the Dal Lake on one side, and the mighty Himalayas in a crescent behind. A tulip in any other setting may not look as beautiful.

The Pari Mahal

,

or Palace of

Fairies

Who would not want to study in the palace of fairies ?

A view of th

e

Dal Lake an

d the

surroundin

g

landscape

from

the Pari Mah

al

If fairies were for real (maybe they are), I cannot think of a better home for them than the Pari Mahal, orthe Palace of Fairies.

It was built by Dara Shikoh, the eldest son and favoured successor to Shahjahan (who built the to Shahjahan (who built the Taj Mahal), in the mid-17th century as a Sufi School. A unique design with six terraces, each with well manicured lawns, it came up around a small spring. Do look in the direction of the Pari Mahal when it is dark – it is lit up and stands out dark – it is lit up and stands out from far on the slopes.

Dara, an intellectual who patronized fine arts, music and dancing, was seen as a heretic in the eyes of hisorthodox brother Aurangzeb. The latter eventually had him murdered, ascended the throne and is seen asascended the throne and is seen aslargely responsible for the eventual downfall of the Mughal Empire. Had Dara lived, would history have been different? We will never know.

Just like we will never know if fairies actually live (or lived) here.

When I was at Pari Mahal, it was full of

picnickers – including romantic couples.

And groups of young school girls –

chattering away and enjoying clicking each other.

The royal sprin

g at

Chashmashahi,

one

of the Mughal

Gardens in

Srinagar

The Mughal Gardens : Fit for royalty

Picnickers a

t

Chashmasha

hi

The Mughal Emperors must have been really fond of Kashmir – the terraced gardens they created inSrinagar are all a labour of love. Including the Shalimar, Nishat Bagh and Chashmashahi Nishat Bagh and Chashmashahi (meaning RoyalSpring). The last was cherished for its refreshing sweet water and built by Shahjahan in 1632 A.D. – very popular with picnickers, and a place to get yyourself clicked in traditional Kashmiri dresses. Having seenjust some bits of Srinagar, I have only one expression for it: Show-off city!

Want to get yourself cl

icked

at Chashmashahi in lo

cal

dresses in Srinagar?

This is

what you could look li

ke!

The Jama Masji

d

in Srinagar

Jama Masjid : Heavenly architecture

Most mosques in the country follow similar architectural models, but the Jama Masjid in Srinagardistinguishes itself as one not seen anywhere.

Also spelled Jami Masjid and Jamia Masjid on the sign boards – it is located in the Old City known for itslabyrinth of streets with old houses and handicraft shops. The largest mosque in shops. The largest mosque in Kashmir Valley, it wasdesigned around a central courtyard in the unique Indo-Saracenic (also known as Indo-Gothic orMughal- Gothic) architectural style. Built in 1402 A.D. by Sikandar But-Shikoh, it holds an undesirablerecord of burning down thrice in its history. The last fire was in 1674 during Aurangzeb’s rule.

I noticed eI noticed everyone was carrying their shoes in the mosque (you are not allowed to wear them inside) – Ihad left mine unattended at the gate. All through I was being nagged with thoughts of their safety - andreplacements are tough to find for a size 11. But fortunately my fears did not come true.

All the time while I was at the mosque, I could not help visualizing the help visualizing the range of creative and technical talent available in times gone by. We cannot even imagine modern structures looking as striking as the one I was at. And what is left for us to see is probably just the tip of the iceberg - so much of what has been lost over time will never be known.

The Deodhar wood pillars supporting the

ceiling in one of the halls of Jama Masjid –

must have been quite an effort. Especially

doing it thrice over – after every fire at the

mosque

Jama Masjid in Figures• Dimensions: 381 feet x 384 feet• Built-up Area: 146,000 sq ft• Number of Deodhar wood pillars supporting ceiling: 378 (346 pillars: 21 feet high, 5 feet girth; 32pillapillars: 48 feet high, 6 feet girth)• Capacity: 33,333 people

Hazratbal : Practising faith alongside the lake

The

Hazratbal

shrine

Don’t try arguing the authenticity of this one: Hazratbal is the most sacred of Muslim shrines in Kashmir Valley – for it houses a single hair of Prophet Mohammed brought a thousand years ago from Medina. It is taken out for public display only on special occasions. While the streets leading to the mosque can be chaotic, the designers sure chose a pleasant site for the building. Dusks and dchose a pleasant site for the building. Dusks and dawns can be particularly enchanting, with light reflecting off the water of Dal Lake, and colourful skies above. Just the spot to connect with the Almighty.

The lawns had hundreds of people just sitting around – but I noticed two young veiled women in particular. And they must have noticed me too – their eyes seemed to be following following my camera and me all over. Still wondering how they would have reacted had I gone up to them to strike a conversation – would give anything to see what they looked like. Will never know.

I saw signs at both Hazratbal and Jama Masjid soliciting donations – a true Muslim is supposed to offer apercentage of his income to charity. But donors were also being advised to do so against proper receipts. I sbeing advised to do so against proper receipts. I saw pre-printed ones at Jama Masjid for Rs. 20 and Rs. 50. Also read a sign at Pari Mahal that read: “If a Muslim plants a tree or sows a field, and men, beasts and birds eat from it all of it is charity on his part – Islamic Faith.” Of course, contributions are welcome from people of all faiths.

The Hazratbal shrine. The

beautiful structure on the

banks of the Dal Lake has an

uncommon architectural

feature: it has a dome and

a single minaret.

Views from a hill of the Dal Lake and the city of Srinagar. Notice the houseboats and the Shikaras - and also how the llake is being filled to make land in pockets by locals.

Srinagar - Top Views

Srinagar - Top Views

Srinagar - Top Views

Srinagar Top Views

Pahalgam: Leaving you breathless

The Lidder river in Pahalgam

If you have ever been to Pahalgam, the vivid imagery of driving the winding roads along the Lidder river with towering peaks in the background will always stay with you. And when these are accentuated with a light drizzle, dusky skies and misty columns on mountain tops, happiness is the only sentiment you will feel.

God made Pahalgam for only one reason: as a place to stand and stare. At the snow peaks (I was lucky to witness fresh snowfall), the meadows, the well manicured gardens, trees and the Lidder river gurgling amidst all this beauty. You could (I didn’t) take a pony ride to the “Dear ” Park, Tulian Lake or the meadows of Baisaran if you so desire.

I chose to put my feet up and warm myself to multiple rounds of espressos and muffins at the Log Inn Café (a part of the heritage Hotel Pahalgam where I stayed). My snug room did not help the cause of the outdoors – the staff kept the traditional wood fired stove, the Bukhari, going for as long as I wanted. Ok, I did walk around too – all the time warding off guides and pony owners. Guides hankering me to engage their services had a typical statement: “Come on, we have only you Hindustanis to earn from.” I was latertold that Kashmiris have always referred to the ‘rest of Indians’ as Hindustanis (derived from Hindustan, the land of Hindus, and another name for India). They cannot be faulted though.cannot be faulted though.

Kashmir was a kingdom in its own right before India gained independence and, even after the rulers agreed to annex it to India, it has been a disputed territory. Kashmiris have never had a chance to fully be a part of India yet.

But there is one time of the year when Pahalgam must be a virtual hell: during the annual Amarnath Yatra. Thousands of pilgrims camp in Pahalgam on the way to Chandanwari, 10 miles away where the arduous trek starts. The Amarnath Cave (altitude: 3952 metres / 12,966 feet) houses an ice stalagmite in the shape of a Shivaling (the symbol of Hindu God Shisymbol of Hindu God Shiva) and is like a Mecca for Hindus. Wonder if the pretty little town can take the burden? I wanted to drive up to Chandanwari but guess what; the local taxi unions had ensured only their vehicles could go there. Or one goes by pony. No thanks to both options.

But visit any other time and Pahalgam will leave you breathless.

Views from Pahalgam

Views from Pahalgam

Views from Pahalgam

The setting

of the

Pahalgam

hotel

Sun Temple

The Martanda (Sun) Temple near Matan. It was raining when I was there – can you make out everything is wet?

No spotlights for the Martanda Sun Temple in Matan

The Martanda (Sun) Temple near Matan is another of the many hidden wonders of Kashmir. The first thought to cross my mind when I saw it: why is this not more famous? The Sun Temple in Konark in Orissa is known to all, and this one deserves no less attention. Again, well maintained by the ASI. I even found a guide who showed me around – here go some factoids he shared:

• Built by Lalitaditya Muktapada circa 724-61 AD.• Devri stone used for construction – without a• Devri stone used for construction – without any cement – all pieces interlock with one another.• Has four gates, the main one was higher than the main shrine.• Weather caused a lot of stones to erode; a fire had caused significant damage to the structure quite sometime back.• Surrounding villages abandoned and resettled thrice• Images carved into the stones used in the temple include those of the rivers Ganga and Jamuna andHindu Gods Brahma, Vishnu, Mahesh and Krishna.• Platforms around the cent• Platforms around the central shrine had smaller temples at one time.• Water in pool comes through channels from Sheshnag, 50 kms (31 miles) away near Pahalgam.• 84 rooms for stay make the perimeter of the compound.• Foundation of the central shrine is 18 feet deep.• There are earthen pots, 5” deep and 3.5” diameter sunk into the ground and were used for offerings andfood.

Getting there: The temple is located 4 km (2.5 miles) from Matan in Anantnag district. You will have to ask for directions - don’t get wronwrongly directed to a more recent Sun Temple in Matan itself.Some children

I met just outside the temple

Here is a fascinating bit: How did workers place such heavy rocks atop each other? They would placethose at the ground level first, then fill the whole area with mud, roll the next set atop these, fix these andfill more mud. At the end of this entire exercise, all the mud was removed to unveil a new temple shining like the sun.

The many views of the Sun Temple near Matan

The many views of the Sun Temple near Matan

The many views of the Sun Temple

near Matan

The many views of the Sun Temple

near Matan

Views of the Temples in Kiramchi

Kiramchi

Views of the Temples in Kiramchi

Views of the Temples in Kiramchi

Start from Jammu at the crack of dawn - it will leave you with time to enjoy some of the surprises on the way.

You will notice many signs pointing to ancient temples, forts and palaces. These are usually all a few miles off the highway, and maintained mostly by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). Take detours for all those that catch your attention.

Especially for the temples at Kiramchi. There is almost nothing known about the seven ancient temples in Kiramchi. Forget outsiders, most residents of the state don’t know about their existence either. They are no less than a little wonder hidden on a path less tawonder hidden on a path less taken. Theories abound: The temples are probably dated circa 8th-9th century A.D. Kiramchi may have been founded much earlier though by Raja (King) Kichak, a contemporary of the Pandavas of Mahabharata – going back a few Millennia. The only certainty: it was the capital of the Bhutial dynasty before the Bhuti kingdom was given up to Raja Gulab Singh in 1834.

As I admired these temples dedicated to Lord Shiva, and one to Maa (Mother) Durga, I could doff to Maa (Mother) Durga, I could doff my [sun protection] hat to the architects of this complex. And, surprisingly, to the ASI who have maintained it so well despite the remoteness. Of course, none of the caretakers had answers beyond what was given in the official catalog. Including about the many excavations of human, animal and religious formsexhibited in a room.

EnjEnjoy the sights in the meantime.

Getting to

Kiramchi: L

ocate the

Supply Ch

owk (cross

ing) in

Udhampur

, drive 8 k

m through

winding ba

ck roads,p

ark your

car and hi

ke for one

km (half a

mile) on a

rocky tra

il. And ask

a dozen pe

ople

a dozen pe

ople for dir

ections or

you will ne

ver find K

iramchi.

Excavations at Kiramchi

View of the Snowy Ski Slopes of Gulmarg

Gulmarg

View of the Snowy Ski Slopes of Gulmarg

View of the Snowy Ski Slopes of Gulmarg

View of the Snowy Ski Slopes of Gulmarg

The snowy ski slopes of GulmargI wish I was made of more daring – you cannot pay me to ski! No Sir, not at any price. But that did not stop me from enviously watching others effortlessly coming down the slopes of Gulmarg – one of the most scenic places on the planet for the sport. I found solace by imagining I was doing likewise – but stopped before my mind commanded my body to try something foolhardy.

Nonetheless, it was an eventful day out at Gulmarg. Here’s how (and you expect it to be likewise foryyourself):

* Conned by a shop renting gumboots to walk in the snow – paid Rs. 75 against the official rate of Rs. 45.* At Tangmarg, 12 kms (8 miles) before Gulmarg, I was told to get off to register my name with the police – only to be told later Indians don’t need to. But it gave some guides an opportunity to insist I need their services.* The pesky behaviour of guides, pony owners and ski guides continued all day – stressed me, spoiling my mood.* Was not allowed to take my car to the cable car station – a half hour walk away – unless I had a hotel reservation within the skiing area. A guide promised that I could if I hired his services for Rs. 500. Chose to walk, not even take a poa pony. No one said anything to local youth zipping around, honking away and littering beer bottles.* Cable car ride more than worth it. Has two stops: Kongdori (3,050 m) and Affarwat (3,950 m). Hired a sledge up to get a view of the Line of Control – or border with Pakistan – where I saw a lone soldier standing guard in the snow. The futility of all this hostility! Cannot get closer – landmines have supposedly been placed in the area. Started snowing when I was there – rushed down lest bad weather leaves me stranded.* People don’t desist from throwing garbage even at these pristine spots. ****!* S* Saw some people ski all the way down to 2,650 m – what a feeling it must be? Why don’t I trust my clumsy self to ski too? Golf should be a safer alternative!

Kashmir: Travel Tips

• Getting there: Srinagar is well connected by air to

Delhi and other major cities in India. Trains are

available till Jammu. There is no dearth of taxis and

buses once you are in the state. Best to drive up

yourself. The highways get blocked on days of

eexcessive snow in the winters - do update yourself

before heading out. For driving directions and

distances, refer to Kunzum Route K11.

• When to go: Kashmir welcomes you all times of the

year, with a different flavour each time. Spring is for

the blooms, summer is for cooling off. The trees are

full of fruits after this, while autumn is awash with

its stunning colours. And when it snits stunning colours. And when it snows in winters, it

is time to enjoy white Kashmir and indulge in

adventure sports. Pahalgam is avoidable during the

Amarnath Yatra period (when pilgrims throng the

town).

• Accommodation: There is no dearth of hotels and

guest houses in Srinagar- from budget to super

luxuluxury. While you have many places to stay in

Pahalgam and Gulmarg, quality places are limited. All

other destinations in the state have only a handful of

properties to stay in - don’t expect any luxuries here.

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Postcards fromKashmir

By

Ajay Jain

E-Edition Version: 1.0 (July 2012)Kunzum Catalog Code: KE 20004

This e-edition first published in 2012 by Kunzum, the travel imprint of TCP Media Pvt. Ltd.This e-edition first published in 2012 by Kunzum, the travel imprint of TCP Media Pvt. Ltd.All Text and Photographs Copyright © 2012 by Ajay Jain

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