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Post iCan Bike Spotting Tips

Practice is the most important component following our program. Of particular importance, we highly encourage you to take your rider out as often as possible immediately following the program. The first few weeks after the program are imperative for sustaining and improving upon the skills just learned. Remember, practice makes permanent!

Reminders

• Helmets are not optional - always wear a helmet! Parents are the role model for this rule. If you ride, please remember to wear a helmet… remember that your child learns from observing you.

• Flat open parking lots or outdoor running tracks make the best practice areas

• Minimal obstacles and distractions reduce fear, anxiety and potential falls

• Practice 20 minutes or so, don’t overdo it • Make practice fun and celebrate the accomplishments • Always end practice on a positive note (perhaps celebrating their

ability to navigate a controlled stop, putting their feet down, dismounting and putting the kick stand down)

• Riding, braking and self-starting do not need to be textbook, just effective

Our overall goal for the rider is independence. Therefore, provide the least amount of support needed. Our instructions for spotting are designed to remove every small obstacle to reduce fear, anxiety and frustration for the rider. Breaking down each skill to a simple level while encouraging each success will motivate the rider to continue to give it their all while practicing. As the rider progresses, the spotter should be able to provide less and less assistance until spotting is no longer necessary.

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Spotting With A Training Handle

• Hold the training handle firmly while your rider gets on and off the bike

• While holding the handle, have the rider put both feet on the pedals and look forward (we suggest you give them a target to look at).

• Use simple, easy instructions and don’t ask questions, make statements instead (e.g. “Feet on the pedals. Eyes forward. Here we go.“)

• Before pushing off, make sure the bike is oriented perfectly straight up and down, perpendicular to the ground, not leaning to one side or the other. This allows the rider to be in an upright sitting posture and feel safe

• Place one hand lightly guiding the end of the handlebars to enable keeping the direction straight with the other hand holding the training handle for stability.

• Guiding the front handle bar initially allows you to ensure a straight path for the bike and rider instead of going into a spiraling motion.

• With an open palm on the training handle, use your palm to give a strong push as you increase speed along with the bike and rider.

• As soon as the bike is moving in a straight direction, let go of the handlebar first and then the training handle.

• It is imperative to provide a strong enough push that allows the rider to gain momentum and balance on the bike. If the rider does not have enough speed, they will likely fall over to one side.

• The most vital and courageous part of spotting is letting go of the training handle. This allows the rider to wobble and feel compelled to self-correct the wobble. This is precisely how they learn and eventually the wobble straightens out and the rider is in control.

• After you let go, continue to run to the side of the rider and training handle, just outside their line of vision, always within arms reach.

• The goal is for the spotter to be close enough to prevent a fall while touching and/or holding the training handle as little as possible.

• Never run directly behind the bike while spotting. • Being behind the rider is not a good position incase your rider stops

unexpectedly and it prevents you from reaching the riders body to break a fall (wrapping your arm around their torso or under their arm). We want you to be safe as well as your rider.

• You may use your palm to assist or manipulate the handle to help prevent a fall or stop the bike if needed.

• Remember – don’t grab or hold on to the handle! The extent to which you are touching and/or holding on to the handle you are interrupting the rider’s balance and/or need to self-correct… that

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is… you are doing the balancing for the rider and distorting the natural ‘feel’ of having to self-correct to ride independently.

• If the rider begins to lose speed and begins to weave side to side, give an open palm push with the training handle. Your rider will gain speed and the wobble will lessen. Horsepower/speed corrects wobbling because momentum is important to staying straight when learning to ride a bicycle.

• If a rider begins to fall, we recommend you grab the handle with your inside hand and wrap your outside arm across the rider’s chest to catch them and/or break their fall.

• When stopping, have your rider put both feet on the ground as they should do every time. Remind the rider “Feet on the ground.”

• A fall or a near fall should be dealt with in a positive way, and immediately. A fall may cause a sense of shock so you want to move on without dwelling too much.

• If a rider falls, give a quick check to make sure they are not seriously hurt, and get right back on the bike!

• If a rider walks away from a fall, even to take a quick break, fear and anxiety begins to build and within moments getting back on the bike seems impossible to the rider.

• Even if a rider has a scraped knee and is crying, just a quick lap before stopping to get a Band-Aid makes getting back on the bike later so much easier. This concept is critical to a rider’s continued success while learning to ride.

Spotting Without a Training Handle

• The same concepts of spotting with a training handle apply for spotting without a training handle.

• If a rider needs assistance starting or stopping, push or pull back on their seat.

• While riding, the rider’s body can be manipulated to assist the rider. • While running beside your rider, you may push or pull against their

side to help them remain upright. • If the rider needs more speed, you can push on the rider’s back or

on the seat.

Braking

At iCan Bike programs we recommend and teach use of hand brakes for stopping. For most riders, it is easier to differentiate between the two motor skills of ‘feet make you go’ and ‘hands make you stop’. This does

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not mean that riders cannot successfully learn to use a coaster brake, in addition to the hand brake, at a future time. Hand Brakes

• Help the rider move forward on the bike then squeeze the hand brake so they feel the bike stop.

• Explain that when they squeeze the brake the bike will stop and then they need to put both feet on the ground.

• So, first “squeeze” then “feet on the ground”. • Have the rider practice this by pedaling and when you say “stop”

or “squeeze”, they squeeze and put both feet on the ground while holding the bike and their body upright.

Coaster Brakes

• If your rider’s bike does not have a handbrake, explain that in order to make the bike stop the rider needs to use the pedals.

• For this approach, finding the right wording to ensure the process makes sense to your rider is an important step for success.

• Some of the queues we use are “Pedal backwards”, “Kick back.”, and “Push back”.

• Demonstrating what the skill “feels like” is very helpful as well. For example, a physical prompt of firmly pushing down on the area just above the knee works well for most individuals.

• If the above approach is not working another option is to practice coaster braking by getting off the bike.

• Stand beside the rider and explain “When we want to go forward we walk forward. When we want to stop we step backward, with one foot hard and quickly”.

• Say “forward” as you walk forward with the rider. Then step back quickly and firmly with one foot while you say “backward”.

• You can also try “go” while walking forward and “stop” as you step back with one foot. Repeat this a few times until the rider understands then return to the bike to practice.

• Let the rider get going on the bike as you run along beside them. After they are comfortably pedaling initiate the verbal queue that you have established. Repeat as necessary.

• If the rider begins to get frustrated, just let them ride for a bit. • Always end every practice session on a positive note.

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Self-Starting

Self-starting can be a very frustrating skill for many riders to learn. It may take a while for a rider to accomplish this skill. As with braking, if starting begins to cause frustration, and seems to be discouraging a rider from riding altogether, go back to giving them a push to get started and let them ride and practice stopping. Try self-starting later. This will build their confidence back up motivating the rider to continue practicing. When practicing starting make sure you are on an even surface or, better yet, a slight decline. Do not try to teach self-starting on inclines. At first, if your rider is not gaining enough speed from their start and/or not pedaling soon enough or fast enough to get going, they will likely need a little push. Give an open hand push on the training handle, the riders back or push from the seat. There are two main types of starting we teach. Both starts will likely be more successful if you are able to get on a bike and show the rider first. Be sure to wear a helmet! Unless the rider already knows how to use the Power Start we typically teach the Frog Start during the iCan Bike program.

Frog Start

The Frog Start is easier for most riders because the position of the pedals does not matter, they have multiple chances to build up speed and their bike starts off straight up and down.

• Have the rider sit on the bike with both feet on the ground. • Tell them they are going to push off the ground 3 times really hard

(like a frog, both feet at the same time) and then put both feet on the pedals and pedal.

• It is helpful for you to count their 3 pushes with them and then say pedal.

• If 3 pushes are not giving the rider enough speed you may make the decision to say push 4 times or 5 times.

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Power Start

This start does work better for some riders but for many it is difficult because the pedals have to be in the right position to begin.

• Have the rider walk the bike forward until one pedal is pushed slightly beyond its highest point from the ground.

• A good way to explain this to your rider is to say “make one pedal tall and one pedal small”.

• The rider will put their foot on the tall pedal and the other foot on the ground.

• Two things must happen simultaneously. As the rider pushes down hard on the tall pedal they must push off the ground with the other foot and then quickly put that foot on the pedal and begin pedaling.

• One modification that often helps with leverage and momentum is to have the riders foot on a curb about 6” to 8” higher than the ground when executing this start method. This enables the rider’s body weight to do more of the work and leg muscles to do less of the work.

These starts may be unique to the individual. If your rider is doing a different start, or combining these two starts in some way, support them to help their unique method of self-starting become effective. The only requirement for each skill is that it be effective. The skill need not be perfect, only perfect for your rider. We are all different in our abilities and in our styles. Encourage and celebrate the difference!

Additional Practice A stationary bike, or a bike in a training stand, can also be a great way to practice:

• if a rider is still struggling with consistent pedaling • to practice braking • if extreme fear is preventing a rider from getting on a typical

two-wheel bike. This will help create a positive association with bikes and then return to another iCan Bike camp.

• in the winter or when weather prevents outdoor bike riding to help create/maintain the muscle memory and build strength and endurance

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Selecting the Right Bike & Helmet

While we provide the bikes that your rider will use during our iCan Bike week, an important part of our program is to transition your rider from our bikes to their own family bike. It is important that the rider is comfortable and confident on their own bike in order to begin practicing immediately following the program. Bike shops offer the best selection of our recommended bikes. A good quality bike is more likely to be ridden as it is more comfortable and less likely to be in disrepair. Selecting a bike can be challenging. Some basic ideas and design characteristics to consider when selecting the most suitable bike for learning are listed below.

• Choose the largest bike that your rider can place both feet flat on the ground

while sitting on the seat. Your rider will feel safe and confident. • Choose a low-slung and compact frame. This is for ease in getting on and off

the bike while still promoting an upright riding posture. The handlebars should be noticeably higher than the seat. The smaller bikes (16” & 20”) may be called a youth or junior style bike. The larger sized bikes (24” & 26”) may be referred to as cruiser bikes.

• The pedal, at its highest point, should be no more than ¾ the height of the tire.

Pedals higher than this cause the rider’s feet and knees to come up too high with each rotation. This results in the rider’s weight shifting from side to side making it more difficult to maintain balance.

• Keep it simple and select a single speed bike. Bikes with multiple gears or a

freewheel (pedals spin backwards without doing anything) can make the bike more complicated, distracting, and frustrating to ride.

• Ideally, choose a bike with both coaster brakes and hand brakes. The coaster

brakes ensure the rider does not pedal backwards and the handbrake is used for stopping. It is easier for most riders to differentiate the two motor skills of “feet go forward” to make the bike go and “squeeze with the hand” to make the bike stop. However, not all bikes will accept handbrakes and it may be a challenge to find 24” and 26” single speed cruiser bikes with handbrakes

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already installed. You may be able to have one installed, but a bike shop can determine that. Be sure to understand the return policy on your bike, especially for Big Box Stores, if later you find that you cannot install an appropriate handbrake.

• 16” and 20” bikes should have a hand brake connected to the back wheel. A

front wheel hand brake can be dangerous and may cause the rider to fall over the handlebars. All 16” and 20” family bikes with a front hand brake will be disengaged at the program.

• 24” and 26” cruiser bikes are safe with a hand brake to either or both tires. It

may be difficult to find a single speed 24” or 26” bike with hand brakes, but bike shops can install a hand brake on most bikes.

• Avoid competition (BMX), freestyle, and mountain bikes. They are difficult to ride and not suitable for learning. The frame is taller and stretched out making it difficult for riders to get on and off. The length of the frame, along with the seat and handlebars being at the same height, forces riders to lean forward to reach the handlebars. This can be a difficult position for learning riders to balance. The pedal cranks are also too long, again making balance more difficult. BMX bikes are designed for riding while standing and mountain bikes are for riding in extreme steeply inclined environments – neither good for learning riders.

• Consider changing the bike seat to be wider and/or softer for comfort.

• Consider changing the seat to be smaller or more narrow to help the rider’s

feet completely reach the ground. This will potentially provide the needed reach to allow the rider to fit on the larger bike with both feet flat on the ground.

• Consider removing seat post reflectors, allowing the seat to be positioned

lower.

• For riders that appear to be leaning forward, reaching for the handlebars, consider adding a stem riser which will provide for a more upright riding position, making it easier to balance.

• To ensure proper fit, take your rider with you when shopping for a bike.

• Be sure the rider likes the selected bike.

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Suggested Learning Bikes This list does not include all suitable bikes. Bike manufacturers frequently introduce new models and discontinue others. The lists below provides examples of many bikes commonly available. Some of the bikes listed come without a rear wheel hand brake; however, a bike shop may be able to add one for a nominal fee. In the list below, Current/New Bikes represent bikes in the market that can likely be found at bike shops and larger retail stores. The Discontinued/Used Bikes are still excellent learning bikes, but are no longer in production and will likely only be found in the used market. * Canadian campers see your special listing a few pages below. Bike Shop Bicycles 16” Tire (Current/New Bikes) 20” Tire (Current/New Bikes)

• Diamondback Mini Impression • Diamondback Impression • Fuji Rookie • Diamondback Miz Della Cruz • Giant Amplify • Fuji Rookie • Giant Animator • Jamis Laser

• Giant Motr • Haro Shredder

• Jamis Miss Daisy • Jamis Laser • Performance Sparrow • Jamis Starlight • Raleigh Jazzi • Performance Downforce • Schwinn Lil Stardust • Performance Piper • Schwinn Gremlin • Schwinn Aerostar • Schwinn Twilight • Schwinn Deelite • Specialized Hotrock Coaster • Schwinn Stardust • Specialized Riprock Coaster • Specialized Hotrock Coaster • Sun Flower Power • Specialized Riprock Coaster • Sun Matrix • Sun Flower Power • Torker Throttle • Sun Lil Bolt • Torker Wildflower • Sun Matrix • Trek Precaliber • Torker Throttle

• Torker Wildflower 16” Tire (Discontinued/Used Bikes) 20” Tire (Discontinued/Used Bikes)

• Dyno Vertigo • Diamondback RM20 • Raleigh Lil Honey • Electra Hawaii • Raleigh MXR • Fuji Fazer • Schwinn Lil Dust • Giant Bella

• Giant Moda • Raleigh Retro • Trek Jet • Trek Mystic

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Bike Shop Bicycles continued… 24” Tire (Current/New Bikes) 26” Tire (Current/New Bikes)

• Diamondback Impression • Del Sol Cantina • Electra Cruiser 1 • Del Sol Shoreliner • Electra Cruiser Lux 1 • Fuji Sanibel

• Diamondback Della Cruz • Electra Townie Original 1

• Schwinn Corvette • Electra Cruiser 1 • Schwinn Sprite • Fuji Barnebey • Sun Boardwalk • Fuji Cape May • Sun Cruz Coaster • Giant Simple Single • Sun Revolutions • Jamis Earth Cruiser • Torker Boardwalk • Jamis Hudson Easy

• Jamis Taxi 24” Tire (Discontinued/Used Bikes) • Pure City Hamma Hamma

• Electra Townie • Pure City Sydney • Schwinn Streamliner • Raleigh Gala

• Raleigh Special Step Thru 26” Tire (Discontinued/Used Bikes) • Schwinn S1

• Cobo Cobo • Schwinn Sivica • Giant Via W • Sun Boardwalk • Raleigh Retroglide • Sun Drifter • Schwinn Sprite Deluxe • Sun Revolutions • Schwinn Streamliner • Sun Streamway

• Torker Boardwalk It can sometimes be a challenge finding single speed 24” and 26” bicycles. While we recommend single speed bikes for learning, below is a list of geared bikes that are relatively simple and suitable (there are more listed under the Larger Retail Store section). You know your rider best and whether or not gears will become a distraction and frustration. 24” Tire (New/Current Geared Bikes) 26” Tire (Current/New Geared Bikes)

• Electra Cruiser Lux 3i • Del Sol Seren 3 • Pure City Abbey • Electra Loft 3i • Pure City Crosby • Electra Townie Original 3i

• Giant Cypress • Jamis Hudson Easy 3 • Raleigh Prim • Raleigh Venture Step Thru • Schwinn Debutante • Schwinn Fiesta • Specialized Expedition • Sun Skylar • Torker T300

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Larger Retail Store Bicycles The table below represent bikes that can be found at larger retail stores such as Target and Walmart. Keep in mind that there are usually tradeoffs with the lower priced bikes that you will find at larger retail stores. These bicycles are usually of lower quality, less durable, not assembled by experienced bike mechanics, and you are pretty much on your own when shopping at these stores. Not all of the bikes listed below will be found in stock; however, these stores have additional inventories online. Please note that online purchases will likely require some assembly. 16” Tire (Current/New Bikes) 20” Tire (Current/New Bikes)

• Camo Decoy • Dynacraft Next Girl Talk • Huffy Rock It • Huffy Cranbrook Cruiser • Next Butterfly • Huffy Good Vibrations • Next Lil Gem • Huffy Sea Star • Next Rocket • Magna Oasis

24” Tire (Current/New Bikes) 26” Tire (Current/New Bikes)

• Huffy Cranbrook • Huffy Cranbrook • Huffy Nel Lusso • Huffy Good Vibrations • Kent La Jolla • Huffy Nel Lusso • Schwinn Huntington • Huffy Panama Jack • Schwinn Legacy • Kent Shogun Belmar Cruiser

• Kent La Jolla • Kent Rockvale • Schwinn Allston 1 • Schwinn Baywood • Schwinn Legacy • Schwinn Majestic Cruiser • Titan Docksider Cruiser 24” Tire (Current/New Geared Bikes) 26” Tire (Current/New Geared Bikes)

• Kent Glendale • Kent Retro Hybrid • Margaritaville Island Life • Kettler Verso Vegas Cruiser • Schwinn Mifflin • Susan G. Komen Cruiser

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Bike Fit The proper way to fit a bike for an individual with a disability is not the traditional method used by most bike shops. When your rider is sitting on the bike seat, both feet should be flat on the ground. This gives the rider the ability to put both feet down when they feel insecure or when the bike comes to a stop, helping them feel safe and confident. It also aids the rider in learning to start the bike independently.

Purchase the largest bike that allows the rider to place both feet flat on the ground while seated on the bike. Bikes suitable for learning are sized by the diameter of the tire, not the frame. This means your rider might not fit the same on all bikes even if they have the same size tires. The best way to find the right sized bike is to bring your rider with you and have them sit on it. THIS CHART IS ONLY A GUIDELINE due to the differences in bike and body designs.

Bike Sizing Chart

Bike Tire Size Average Height

16” 40” – 48”

20” 48” – 56”

24” 56” – 63”

26” Above 63”

*Note: 16, 20, 24, and 26 are the tire size. Bike frame sizes will vary.

• For additional information on bike selection and fitting, please watch our Selecting a Suitable Bike for Learning video on the parent page of our website: http://icanshine.org/parents/

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Bike Helmets A properly fitted bike helmet is required for all riders at iCan Bike programs. We strongly recommend that all individuals riding a bicycle wear a helmet, regardless of how short the ride may be. Even a low speed accident can result in a serious head injury. Be a good role model and always wear a helmet when you are riding a bike.

• There are different helmets for different recreational activities. Each type of helmet is made to protect your head from the impacts common to a particular activity or sport. Skateboard helmets protect the rear of your head, which is the most common location for skateboarding injuries. They are designed for multiple low speed impacts. Bike helmets are designed to protect the front of the head, the most common area of most biking injuries. Bike helmets are designed for higher speed single impacts. You can see the differences below.

Skateboard Helmet (not for biking) Bike Helmet

• Buy a helmet that meets U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) safety standards for biking. There should be a sticker inside the helmet or identified on the helmet box.

Bike Helmet Fit The two-finger rule is an easy guide for proper fit. You should be able to:

• Place two fingers between the eyebrows and the helmet. This ensures proper

placement on the head, not too far forward or backward. The helmet should fit firmly and level on the rider’s head.

• Hold two fingers in a peace sign “V” with the bottom of the “V” just below the

ear lobe. This is where the side straps of the helmet should be when the helmet is on the rider.

• Insert two fingers between the chin strap and chin. The strap should be tight

enough to secure the helmet, but not so tight as to constrict, pinch, or be uncomfortable.

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• Helmets should be adjusted to fit each individual’s head. After adjusting, the helmet should fit securely and not shift on the head.

• Before each ride, a helmet should be checked and adjusted, if necessary.

• Helmets should be replaced if subjected to a severe blow, even if it doesn’t

appear to have damage. One cannot often see if the structural integrity has been compromised. Some manufacturers use the mantra “one crash and it’s trash.”

• For additional information on bike helmets and helmet fitting, watch the Selecting

the Right Helmet for your Rider video on the parent page of our website: http://icanshine.org/parents/